To Vigo

Sometimes…life throws us a curveball. We got one today- Luke is sick. 😢 He’s been trying to drink but was so nauseated and feverish with sweats and chills that now he’s depleted- not the best way to feel when you’re carrying a backpack and hiking through forests. We taxied to a medical clinic first thing to have him evaluated and the diagnosis was flu/ Covid and that he needed rest and fluids. No hiking today for Luke. Honestly this has been going on for 3 days and he’s tried to tough it out but today he just couldn’t and he needed to get to a bed and recover so hopefully he can do the last 100K to receive his Compostella certificate. He was good with me going out to hike alone today so we had the taxi drop me off in A Ramallosa and he continued on to Vigo to check in and rest and hydrate.
My day wasn’t going to be nearly as fun without my boy but I was going to try and make the best of it and take pics to show him tonight. Luke had the great idea to take my backpack with him so that I could hike without the weight of it. WOW that helped so much- I felt like I was flying when I walked without the pack. (My feet appreciated the break too!) Because of our curveball this morning I missed the two 15th century bridges in Sabaris, the Ponte de Sabaris and the Ponte del Mercado so I was grateful I got to see the unusual Romanesque bridge in A Ramallosa that goes over the river Miño. It is very long and consists of ten semicircular arches with points over some of the arches. In the center of the bridge there is a cross and memorial to Saint Telmo (Elmo) the patron saint of sailors. I had my credential stamped at the tourist office nearby and she pointed me to the left and off I went. After a bit things didn’t look so familiar but there was a yellow arrow so I kept on. And then a mile in I realized she had sent me on the literal path where I meant to do the coastal. I decided to make the best of it and I’m glad I did. The day was sunny and cool, the surfing beaches were packed with happy vacationers and there were several pilgrims around me walking too. The area I walked is called, La Playa de Lourida or Playa America. At some point I decided to make my way back to the official path and I zigzagged through some neighborhood streets until I got sorted out!
It was getting past lunchtime and I thought I’d stop at a café I know in Nigrán but unfortunately it was closed until tomorrow. Luckily, directly around the corner was a pandelaria that sells sweet bakery items and yummy empanadas so lunch was set! This is the Camino in my opinion- you just never know what is around a bend or up a hill. There are always surprises and as they say, « The Camino provides! »
My afternoon was so interesting and it went by quickly although my blisters were hurting me. I passed old cemeteries with Gothic crosses and memorials, horse in pastures and grapevines heavy with fruit in small backyard vineyards. I snacked on wild blackberries while avoiding their thorny branches. I passed a small donativo with buttons of Santiago so I dropped in a few coins and took one for Luke and me. I snapped pictures of flowers and listened to birds singing. I said prayers and watched warily when little dogs ran up to check on me. I really prayed when I was tramping through the forest alone trying to be brave. At some point when I thought I was lost again I started wondering if there were lions in the forests of Spain? Or wild pigs? It can be daunting to be alone and I do have a vivid imagination so…. the good news is I kept going!
In Priegue I passed the Cruceiro de As Rexas which is significant because it references St John the Baptist with a lamb as well as the crucified Christ and Our Lady of Mercy. It is easy to miss because you have to climb these old narrow stone steps which are often overlooked and I was pleased to get to see this special cross on my pilgrimage! In Coruxo I saw the 12th century church of San Salvador- it was locked but the exterior is beautiful with three semicircular apses- I hope one day I can go in to visit but for now I’m happy to have seen where it is. It’s surrounded by a wall and there are steps leading up to the front doors and there’s a huge cemetery behind it- lots to see! Making my way in to Vigo was pleasant. The path was sandy and soft from the rain they got this afternoon ( I never felt a drop! ) and there were lots of locals out jogging, walking dogs and biking. Walking along the small river I saw lots of ducks and other birds fishing. I saw Vigo’s huge new soccer stadium being built and then I was on busy streets with traffic. It was 5:45 before I knew it and all in I walked 14 miles today before my phone was down to 5% and I grabbed a taxi to our hotel. Vigo has many churches and sites- I’m hoping Luke is feeling better and we’ll see some together in the morning. All for now…Read more