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- Day 11
- Wednesday, September 3, 2025 at 10:15 AM
- 🌧 66 °F
- Altitude: 36 ft
SpainPontevedra42°20’55” N 8°36’27” W
To Pontevedra

What a great nights rest we had in our little hostel apartment! We needed it because today it’s pouring rain and we had to get going early. We’ve dodged the rain so far on our walk-it’s misted on us and rained while we slept but today the ponchos came out! I actually like walking in the rain- it makes things smell fresh and rinses off the dust. Spain has had so many fires this summer so they need the rain! Luke is feeling much better and is back to himself- talking and joking with everyone we meet and encouraging me. This morning we ran into Anastasia from Russia who we met on the first night- you see some of the same pilgrims if you’re lucky but we are all on our own schedules with walking and stops at cafés so it’s likely you may never see your new friends again. That’s ok because the shared experience is enough- we are after all headed for the same destination but not with the same intentions or reasons. Everyone has their own Camino in their heart.
Today we are hiking to one of my favorite towns - Pontevedra. We sloshed along in the rain up some hard hills and through some beautiful forests. Everything was so green and lush and when the rain stopped around noon the birds really started singing! Combined with pilgrims chatter there was a lot going on in the woods today. We have significantly increased the number of pilgrims and at times we had groups of 10 or so stacked at narrow passages trying to keep out of the mud. There were several little makeshift tents in the woods again today offering drinks and snacks and fruit and we did stop at one when it was raining really hard because they had a tent we could huddle under. People are happy and smiling and quick to send the Buen Camino greeting which we love! We visited the sweet little Capela de Santa Marta (1600) and stamped our credential - we are becoming pros at this! The chapel is tiny but I think it has such good energy- sometimes the most humble places can feel the most reverent. There were lots of young people there when we arrived and their high spirits reflected an infectious joy and happiness.
Soon after we arrived at a fork in the road- the choices were the official route or the “Complementario” which is the route to the left (also accepted) which follows the Rio Tomeza back into the forest. Of course we chose to walk along the river! It was puddly and muddy and wonderful- the trees were covered with green moss and the ground was slippery but it looked like a fairy land and before we knew it we were crossing back into civilization and the city of Pontevedra and had 10 miles under our belts today already! We hit a grocery store for grapes and Yougurt and Coke Zero and water then checked into our hostel, showered, did laundry and went back down to the old city for some sightseeing.
The first site on my agenda was the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina, the Sanctuary of the Virgin Pilgrim. The church is built in a unique shell-shape and with the statues on the facade the effect is truly elegant and breathtaking. It stands in a square that is busy with shoppers and cars but you can’t help but stop and be awed by her beauty. This church is an important stop on the Camino trail because Our Lady is represented as one of us, a pilgrim; and also as our protector on our way. Luke and I were fascinated when we climbed the stairs inside up to the dome- it’s a spectacular view from way up there!
Next we visited the ruins of Santo Domingo, a convent founded in 1281 by Dominican nuns. The gothic architecture and stone cutting was beautiful but it was sad to see it in ruins and imagine how such a holy place could decline like this. The ruins are protected now by the government as it’s considered a big part of the history in Pontevedra.
We were also able to see the outside of the Basilica of Santa Maria La Mayor but it was locked until 5 pm and we were too tired to wait. The outside was fantastic though with lots of beautiful carvings. We continued through the old town and stopped in at the information center because it was a lovely old house which we later found out was owned by two sisters who were probably spies during the second World War! We ate supper quickly and did another grocery shop because tomorrow will be another long day! Finally we went to Mass back at the Virgin Peregrina church- it was the nightly Pilgrim’s Mass and it was packed- such a joy to worship with so many other faithful! The priest spoke in many languages welcoming everyone- his homily was translated to me by Luke… basically keep walking until we reach our destination and never forget that we are protected by Mary and her angels. Also when our Camino is over and we return to our lives to continue to seek and revere God and to pray to the saints especially St James for their help and guidance in our lives. The night was getting colder so we headed home doing a little shopping and gelato as we walked. The hostel was abuzz with conversations and laughter in every language but I just needed my bed- Luke went in to the kitchen and made us yummy grilled cheese sandwiches as a snack and I ate it in my cubby after I had already wolfed down an apple tart in here behind my curtains- a girls got to eat! Tomorrow we’ll leave early for the Spiritual Varient and the longest climb so far.Read more
Traveler
You are a Pro, Renee! Looking strong 💪
TravelerSending prayers for you both as you start the Spiritual Variant tomorrow.
Traveler
Cute