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  • Day 9

    Innocence Lost

    December 11, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    As soon as we arrived in Koh Lanta we were struck by the surprising number of women wearing hijabs. And then, when we arrived at our hotel, the call to prayer resounded over loudspeakers nearby. Wait a minute, isn't this a Buddhist country?

    Well, since you asked, here's the situation:

    Islamic Malay migrants arrived on the island about 300 years ago. These settlers, many who came from  the opposite Thailand coast, referred to themselves as Orang Lonta. “Orang” is a Malay term meaning “people” and, on old Malay maps, the Koh Lanta is named Pulau Lonta.

    Today the island is predominately Muslim although, in the rest of the country only a little over 5% of the population follows Islam.

    Koh Lanta is also home to the Chao Lay people, seafaring gypsies who first settled here 500 years ago, and Thai-Chinese, many of whom follow Confucianism, Taoism or other traditional Chinese religions. Despite appearances of harmony between the different sects locally, there is a long history of discord and persecution of the minority Muslims, particularly in the deep south of the country that borders Malaysia.

    The following is an excerpt from an article published by TRT World, a Turkish news organization:

    "The deep south was formerly known as the independent Sultanate of Patani until it was conquered by the Kingdom of Siam in 1785. Siam directly controlled the appointment of Patani’s sultanate leadership which led to the rebellion and constant cycle of revolution and suppression until today.

    On October 25 2004, Thai security forces suppressed a large protest by Muslims in the town of Tak Bai by rounding up 1300 protesters, stacking them face down in military trucks and transporting them to Patani camps five hours away.

    At least 78 protesters died from suffocation in Thai military trucks, and several others were shot dead while protesting outside the police station for the release of detainees."

    When I started writing this post I intended to explore the reason for the predominance of Muslim culture here. Yet, as I researched the subject, I was saddened to learn that this peaceful, Zen and welcoming country is not without its prejudices.

    I have changed the original title of this post from "Harmony" to "Innocence Lost."

    My innocence.

    Imagine there's no countries
    It isn't hard to do
    Nothing to kill or die for
    And no religion too
    Imagine all the people living life in peace,
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