• Rudy Mikšánek
  • Anastasha Morse
  • Rudy Mikšánek
  • Anastasha Morse

Japan - Autumn 2022

A 16-day adventure by Rudy & Anastasha Read more
  • Trip start
    November 5, 2022

    Nikkō

    November 6, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The shrines and temples of Nikkō are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Futarasan Shrine and Tōshō-gū are both Shinto shrines and Rinnō-ji is a Buddhist temple. The surrounding cedar forest on the mountain was planted in the 17th century.

    Yomeimon Gate: Around the back of the gate, one of the pillars is actually upside down. Apparently, this was on purpose so the gate isn’t complete, since that could bring bad luck.
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  • Kanmangafuchi Abyss

    November 6, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    An ethereal volcanic valley lined with Buddhist Jizo statues (guardian of children and the souls of the dead) dressed in their red capes. In 1902, a flood damaged most of the statues. Since then, the total number of statues seems to change whenever they’re counted, so they’re sometimes called “bakejizo,” which means “phantom Jizos.”Read more

  • Nasu Shikanoyu Onsen and Sessho-Seki

    November 7, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Rumor has it that Shikanoyu dates back to the 7th century when a hunter wounded a shika deer and followed it through mountains, eventually finding it resting at this hot spring, having been healed by its waters.

    The smell of sulfur hangs heavy in the air, and a short walk further up the mountain bring you to Sessho-seki, or the “killing stone.” The legend there is of the nine-tailed fox, from about 3,500 years ago. Basically, the fox caused a great deal of trouble in China and India after turning into a beautiful women; the fox then came to Japan to become close to the emperor and destroy the country. But the identity of the fox was discovered, and an army sent to slay the criminal. Once killed, the fox because a poisonous stone, which was destroyed later, being split in three pieces (only one piece remains here).
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  • Lake Chūzenji

    November 8, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Lake Chūzenji was formed by an eruption of Mount Nankai about 20,000 years ago and is the center of a beautiful scene in Nikkō National Park.

    Photos: Chūzenji Lake Observation Deck, Hangetsuyama Observation Deck, Akechidaira Ropeway (closed due to high winds).Read more

  • Kusatsu Hot Spring

    November 9, 2022 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Kusatsu Onsen is a centuries-old hot spring resort town with the most flowing water of any hot springs in Japan. The yubatake hot spring field (pictured) is the heart of the town and shows the process of cooling the water from volcanic, near-boiling temperatures to more suitable temperatures for the baths. Anastasha and I visited both the Sainokawara open air baths and Ohtaki no Yu public baths.

    To get to Kusatsu, we drove Japan’s National Route 292 past Shiga Kogen and to the highest point of Japan’s national highway system (el. 2,172 m). On the descent, we drove around Mount Kusatsu-Shimane, an active stratovolcano with three crater lakes. But because of high levels of volcanic gas, there was no stopping near the summit for sightseeing.
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  • Chureito Pagoda

    November 10, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Pagoda built in 1958 (completed in 1962) to enshrine those from Fujiyoshida who died in wars over the past 90 years. With Mount Fuji in the background, this is one of the most well known views of Japan. We ate some dango (rice flour dumpling) while taking in the scenery.Read more

  • Lake Ashi

    November 11, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Hakone Shrine was founded in the 8th century on Mount Koma/Komagatame, which is one of the peaks and central cones of Mount Hakone (a complex volcano). At some point, the shrine was moved to Lake Ashi, and the view of the torii in the water (and Mount Fuji in the background, of course) makes for a peaceful scene.

    Also, we took the pirate ship sightseeing boat around the lake. It’s the only way to travel.

    Also pictured: “iroha” stairs in Miyanoshita and a parking lot cat at Tōgendai Port.
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  • Owakudani

    November 12, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Volcanic mountainside with craters, fumaroles, and sulfur vents. Eggs are commonly boiled in hot springs, but only here at Owakudani do they turn black. The eggs are sent back and forth by a miniature cable car. From what I could tell from the Geo Museum, the metal towers are essentially collecting the volcanic steam/gases/minerals and infusing it into the water, cooling it before it’s piped to the hot spring baths in the surrounding area. Landslides are catastrophic so there’s been a lot of work building retaining walls.Read more

  • Genbe River (Mishima)

    November 13, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    An incredible river walk stretches through the city of Mishima. Concrete stepping stones and boardwalks place you right at the water’s edge—and then some. Along the way is a rich diversity of aquatic plants and birds. There are also a few cafes where you can take a quick coffee break or grab a bite to eat.Read more

  • Ikadaba Wasabi Fields

    November 13, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Traditional wasabi cultivation in Shizuoka is a recognized Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System. Here, wasabi is grown sustainably by the “tatamiishi” method that features a piles of rocks and pebbles within a terraced landscape to control water temperature and ensure the adequate flow of spring water down the entire field. The wasabi fields pictured here are relatively large—as you wind up and down the densely forested mountains, you can find smaller fields wherever there is a creek or stream.Read more

  • Kawazu Seven Waterfalls

    November 13, 2022 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    A great day exploring some part of the Izu Peninsula. While walking the Seven Waterfalls trail, we stumbled upon a hidden restaurant in the forest called Higurashi (which was basically just someone’s house), where they grow their own shiitake mushrooms!

    The walk started with Deai-daru Falls (#2 of 7), and along the way, in the pouring rain, we crossed a wave-shaped suspension bridge and saw an old waterworks building along the river. Of course, we also had to sidestep crabs and giant toads that were also using the path… not to mention there were a few missing bridges. Finally, we stopped for some ice cream (and wasabi-flavored souvenirs), and drove back towards Hakone on the Kawazu Nanadari Loop Bridge.
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  • Dragon’s Back

    November 14, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Deciduous trees planted along mountain ridges creates a stunning illusion of a dragon rising up as the leaves change color in the fall. Unfortunately, the light was bad for landscape photography, plus we were a little late for peak fall colors… but you get the idea. It was still an amazing sight.Read more

  • Nara Park

    November 14, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Nara Park is home to a little over 1,000 sika deer. Since Takemikazuchi, one of the gods enshrined at Kasuga-taisha, first visited while riding a white deer, all of these “Nara deer” are considered sacred. And according to Wikipedia, anyone who kills one is sentenced to death (but there hasn’t been an incident since 1637).

    Nowadays, you can feed the deer “shika senbei,” which are special sugar-free deer crackers made from wheat flour and rice bran. They only cost a couple hundred yen for a package, and a percentage goes to protecting the deer. But don’t feed them regular food (or the paper packaging or plastic bags), because that will make them sick.

    Kasuga Shrine and the surrounding primeval forest are part of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara,” a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kasuga-taisha is known for its great number of bronze lanterns (inside) and stone lanterns (outside).
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  • Philosopher’s Path

    November 15, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Tetsugaku no michi, or the “Philosopher’s Walk,” is a winding path along a section of the Lake Biwa Canal that is lined with cherry trees—so just imagine it in the spring! Dating back to the 1890s, the path was completed/converted into a walking trail by Kyoto City in 1968, and has since made the list of 100 Best Japanese Roads. Along the route are a number of temples (like Otoyo Jinja, a Shinto shrine with statues of many different animals), cafes, and boutiques.

    Apparently, according to Japan–guide.com, the path got its name since this is where “Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan's most famous philosophers… practice[d] meditation while… on his daily commute to Kyoto University.”

    You can also find cats.
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  • Kimono Forest, Arashiyama Station

    November 16, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Extra thanks to Anastasha for patiently waiting for multiple trains to come through so I could take pictures of them, even though I didn’t end up using those pictures.

    The first shot is the truest to the actual scene—a beautiful wash of yellow-orange light. The second pulls back on the exposure and adjusts the white balance to better showcase the beautiful colors and designs you see in each glowing kimono print.Read more

  • Roppongi Hills: Tokyo City View

    November 19, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Last full day in Tokyo consisted of some morning donuts (Snowman Pikachu at Misdo!) before walking around Shinjuku. Unfortunately, our temple-gardens-of-choice for carp feeding were closed, so, instead, we wandered around some side streets while waiting for a table at a coffee shop that features some extra premium latte art. Later, we ventured out to Asakusa for street food and shopping. There was a lot of stress that night as things were winding down, but after a complementary drink at the hotel bar (in Ginza—so posh!), we ventured back out for some great views of Tokyo at night from Roppongi Hills Tower.Read more

    Trip end
    November 20, 2022