Melodies of the Arthur River
7.–8. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
The familiar comfort of bitumen beneath our wheels marked our return to coastal roads, as we traced Tasmania's wild western edge northward. The promise of tomorrow's river cruise, a thoughtful Christmas gift from Grammy, pulled us toward Arthur River like an invisible thread connecting family across distances. Her gesture bridged the physical space between us, a reminder that love flows like water, finding its way through the landscapes of our wandering life.
Retracing our path from a year ago stirred memories as delicate as morning mist, each bend and vista echoing with whispers of our earlier passage. Arthur River welcomed us with three possible havens, and though the Manuka Campground wouldn't typically call to our wild hearts, its proximity to tomorrow's adventure made it feel predestined. As night fell, our thoughts danced between memories of past visits and the gentle anticipation of dawn's promises.
Morning arrived with tender urgency, and a brief drive brought us to our vessel, 'Reflections' - not the historic 'Red Boat' we'd hoped for, which lay wounded by recent wild weather, but a worthy vessel nonetheless. There was something profound about how the west coast's untamed spirit had shaped even this small detail of our journey, a reminder that nature's story writes itself into every moment.
As Boris and Emma, our guides in this family enterprise, steered us up the Arthur River, our minds naturally drifted to another river journey shared with Grammy and Fran on the Gordon. Though the Arthur lacked the Gordon's profound depths, it held its own wild beauty - a different kind of pristine that spoke of untold stories and untouched corners. Boris's narrative wove through our journey like silk, his passion for this place flowing through tales that transformed the landscape into living history.
The Sea Eagles' appearance, swooping with ancient grace for their daily tribute of raw steak, brought nature's majesty into sharp focus. These moments of wild connection, orchestrated yet authentic, reminded us of how thin the veil between human and natural worlds can be in places like this.
As Emma prepared our lunch on shore, the aroma of home-cooked food mingling with the forest air, Boris led us through the surrounding woodland. Though we'd traversed countless Tasmanian trails before, this walk felt different - perhaps because it was Grammy's gift that had brought us here, adding another layer of family connection to our nomadic tale. The meal that followed tasted of more than just skilled preparation; it was seasoned with shared stories and the warmth of human connection.
The journey back became an unexpected symphony of moments as Boris cradled his banjo, his weathered fingers finding melodies that seemed to rise from the river itself. Each note danced across the water, harmonising with the gentle splash of waves against the boat's hull. His songs, born of years living alongside this wild river, carried stories of love, loss, and the enduring spirit of Tasmania's west coast. In that musical interlude, time seemed to slow, allowing us to absorb every detail - the late afternoon light filtering through the trees, the rhythm of the river's flow, and the way music can transform a simple boat ride into something sacred.
Bidding farewell to Boris and Emma felt like closing a cherished book, yet the open road ahead hummed with possibility. As we climbed back into our bus, our hearts were full with the day's experiences - another beautiful thread woven into the tapestry of our wandering life.Weiterlesen
Roads of Patient Discovery
6.–7. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 15 °C
The Western Explorer stretched before us like a weathered tapestry of possibilities, its rugged surface telling tales of countless journeys past. Our bus, more than just a vessel but a companion in our wandering life, handled the washouts and rough patches with unwavering grace. As Trial Harbour's brilliant sunshine yielded to a gentle shroud of clouds and misty rain, we found ourselves wrapped in contemplative conversation about family and future.
Our thoughts meandered to our adult children, their lives now shaped by their own choices and dreams. There was a profound tenderness in imagining them perhaps one day joining us on these wandering roads, even if just for a fleeting season. The misty landscape seemed to mirror our reflections - both clear and obscured, full of possibility and gentle uncertainty. We spoke of how they might find their own connection to this unconventional life we'd embraced, their potential presence adding new chapters to our ever-evolving story of freedom and discovery.
Crossing the Donaldson River, we spotted a solitary camper whose presence seemed to whisper that some moments are meant for passing by. There was a quiet understanding between us that our perfect spot lay somewhere further along this rain-kissed road. The Western Explorer's famous views remained hidden behind low clouds, creating an intimate cocoon around our travelling home as we pressed onward, guided by an invisible thread of intuition.
When the Lindsay River emerged through the mist, it felt like a homecoming we hadn't known we were seeking. The private campsite nestled alongside its flowing waters beckoned like a whispered secret, and our bus found its place there with practiced ease. In this moment of perfect solitude, we felt profoundly grateful for the freedom to pause and breathe in these precious moments of wilderness connection.
Dawn brought transformation as nature lifted her rainy veil, allowing sunshine to reclaim the sky with renewed vigour. The short distance to Arthur River ahead gave us permission to savour our morning rituals, knowing such unhurried moments were gifts to be treasured. When we finally continued our journey after lunch, we were completing a circle that had begun almost twelve months ago - a perfect metaphor for life's wonderful way of bringing us back to places we were meant to experience more fully.
The final stretch became a shared celebration of our journey. Sal took the helm of our trusted home on wheels, while Anth captured our passage through this untamed corner of Tasmania from above, the drone's eye view immortalising our moment of completion. As we approached the familiar intersection, turning west towards Arthur River, we felt the profound satisfaction of closing a circle that had begun a year ago, now enriched by countless moments that had filled our hearts along the way.Weiterlesen
Where Waters Guide & Friends Meet
5.–6. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Dawn found us departing our peaceful haven on Lake Pieman, crossing the dam wall that stood as a testament to human engineering amidst Tasmania's untamed wilderness. The journey ahead promised the unique experience of the Fatman Barge at Corinna, a crossing that would carry us deeper into the heart of Tasmania's wild west.
Our arrival at the ferry brought a moment of measured anticipation - our bus stretched the very limits of what the humble barge could bear. Yet there was something deeply symbolic about this five-minute journey across the river, a brief suspension between one world and another, floating upon the same waters that had carved these valleys over millennia.
The tiny settlement of Corinna pulsed with Sunday life, a gathering of kindred spirits drawn to this remote corner of Tasmania. The Tannin Restaurant beckoned us with promises of comfort and connection, its steak sandwich and chips becoming more than mere sustenance - rather a moment of shared pleasure in this wilderness outpost. It was here, in that curious way that the universe sometimes orchestrates perfect moments, that we spoke of Ben and Kerry, wondering aloud about their parallel journey. As if summoned by our thoughts, their familiar vehicle rolled off the barge, bringing with it the joy of unexpected reunion.
Their invitation to kayak the Pieman River felt like a gift from the wilderness itself. Soon we found ourselves gliding across dark waters, our paddles breaking the mirror-like surface in rhythmic harmony. The turn into the Whyte River brought us into a realm where time seemed to hold its breath - the encroaching wilderness creating a cathedral of ancient trees and whispered stories. In these moments, surrounded by pristine nature and shared friendship, we discovered one of those rare periods of perfect contentment that travellers sometimes stumble upon.
A fallen tree across our path became not an obstacle but a natural full stop, a gentle reminder to pause and absorb the magic of where we were. The journey back carried its own kind of peace, each paddle stroke a meditation on connection - to nature, to friends, to ourselves.
Back in Corinna, what could have been a final farewell instead became another chapter in our intertwined journeys. While Anth set off to explore the Whyte River track on foot, his run becoming a treasure hunt of geocaches, Sal found restoration in the quiet comfort of our bus, each of us honouring our own rhythms of adventure and rest.
As twilight approached and we ventured north along the Western Explorer, the Savage River beckoned us to yet another serendipitous encounter. There, playing in the river's embrace like children of the wilderness, were Ben and Kerry once more. Setting up camp alongside them felt like the most natural conclusion to a day that had woven friendship, adventure, and the wild beauty of Tasmania into an unforgettable tapestry of experiences.Weiterlesen

ReisenderHow wonderful to have that opportunity to kayak in the wilderness. 😊
Choosing Our Summit
4.–5. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The farewell to Trial Harbour's endless ocean horizons marked not an ending, but a transition into Tasmania's mountainous heart. Anthony Road, which had beckoned us days earlier, now welcomed us like an old friend promising new adventures. The whispers of Mount Murchison's reputation as one of Tasmania's finest short hikes pulled us forward, each kilometre bringing us closer to another chapter in our wilderness journey.
Life has a way of weaving unexpected threads into our tapestry of experiences, and so it was when we encountered a fellow wanderer, thumb extended in the universal gesture of the hiking community. His presence in our bus felt natural, another soul drawn to Tasmania's wild places, reminiscent of the kindred spirit we'd met at Frenchman's Cap. These brief intersections with fellow travellers always remind us of the beautiful community that exists among those who hear the mountains' call.
The trail's initial ascent spoke directly to our muscles, each step a conversation between body and mountain. But nature has a way of rewarding effort with wonder, and as we broke through the tree line, the heart of Tasmania's wilderness unveiled itself in a moment that stole our breath more effectively than any climb. The ocean views we'd left just an hour before felt like memories from another life as we stood surrounded by this new world of rocky peaks and endless horizons.
Our upward journey became a meditation in motion, each step revealing new perspectives of the wild landscape surrounding us. When we reached the rope ascent, three-quarters of the way to the summit, we found ourselves at a metaphorical crossroads as much as a physical one. Here, resting with water and trail snacks, we had one of those profound conversations that seem to flow more naturally in high places.
The decision not to push for the summit came from a place of deep contentment rather than limitation. We'd embarked on this journey seeking epic views and soul-stirring moments, not simply to tick boxes on some arbitrary list of achievements. The spectacular panorama already surrounding us had filled our spirits to overflowing, and sometimes wisdom lies in recognising when you've already received the gift you came seeking.
Our descent carried its own kind of joy, gentler on the legs but rich with reflection. Back at the bus, noting our fellow hiker had continued his own journey, we felt that familiar pull toward our next destination. Tullah's riverside camping ground may have been full on this busy Saturday, but in our nomadic life, such minor setbacks merely open doors to new possibilities.
The shores of Lake Pieman offered themselves as our sanctuary for the night, a perfect alternative to rushing for the Corinna ferry's last crossing. This is the beauty of our chosen life - the freedom to let go of arbitrary deadlines and embrace the serendipity of each moment. As we settled in beside the lake's mirrored surface, we were reminded once again that sometimes the most beautiful destinations are the ones we never planned to find.Weiterlesen

ReisenderNSW you do have to go to the summit! Reminds me a bit of Scotland!
Waves of Change at Trial Harbour
1.–4. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 14 °C
The journey from Zeehan to Trial Harbour became a meditation on the raw beauty of Tasmania's west coast, where civilisation gradually surrenders to wilderness. Those final ten kilometres of dirt road served as a threshold between worlds, each turn of our wheels carrying us deeper into a landscape where nature's voice speaks with unfiltered honesty. The small coastal community emerged before us like a dream, tucked between the wild ocean and the whispering hills, promising solitude and connection in equal measure.
Fortune smiled upon us at the campsite, blessing us with a vantage point that felt like nature's private balcony. Before us, the wild waves of the Southern Ocean danced their eternal performance, each surge and retreat a reminder of life's constant ebb and flow. The horizon stretched endlessly, a canvas where sea and sky merged in a watercolour of infinite blues, each shade telling its own story of depth and distance.
In one of those serendipitous moments that make nomadic life so magical, Ben and Kerry's arrival halfway through our first day felt like the universe's gentle reminder that even in the most remote corners of the world, hearts can find their way to each other. Their familiar faces appearing in this wild landscape brought a warmth that matched the unexpected clearing of Tasmania's typically moody skies. After a week of characteristic rains, the weather transformed as if celebrating our reunion, the notorious west coast winds softening to gentle whispers rather than their usual roar.
These perfect conditions beckoned Anth to explore on foot, his running route weaving through the coastal township like a thread through nature's tapestry. The ATV tracks that crisscrossed the landscape became his pathway to solitude, each stride carrying him through a world where human presence felt both fleeting and profound against the backdrop of ancient rocks and timeless seas.
Our nights became a symphony of peace, the constant crash of the Western Ocean wrapping around us like a familiar blanket. There was something profoundly comforting in this natural white noise, as if each wave's arrival on the shore was washing away the complexities of our everyday existence, leaving only the essential rhythms of being.
We could have remained here indefinitely, letting the days merge like the waves on the horizon, each sunrise bringing new promises of discovery and contentment. However, life has its own timing, and the news of Anth's successful clinical trial screening introduced a gentle urgency to our otherwise fluid journey. The knowledge of a waiting flight in Hobart became a reminder that even the most perfect moments are precious because they cannot last forever.
Those three days at Trial Harbour became a testament to the beauty of impermanence - each moment more precious because we knew they were numbered. As we prepared to depart towards new hiking adventures and camping grounds, we carried with us not just memories, but a deeper appreciation for how life's necessities sometimes guide us away from paradise, only to lead us toward new discoveries waiting on the horizon.Weiterlesen
Midnight Calls to Mountain Dreams
31. Dez. 2024–1. Jan. 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Life on the road often leads us down unexpected paths, and so it was as we departed Queenstown with our compass initially set towards the town of Tullah. Yet there's a certain magic in allowing the journey itself to guide us, and at the junction of the inspiringly named Anthony's Road, we felt that familiar pull of possibility that so often shapes our nomadic life. Something whispered to us to change course, to point our wheels toward Zeehan instead, where the promise of the golf course's simple comfort of hot showers beckoned.
The small mining town's golf course revealed itself as another hidden gem in Tasmania's crown, where the landscape seemed to cradle human endeavours in its ancient embrace. The mountains that formed our backdrop stood like silent guardians, their timeless presence a reminder of how brief our own passages through these places are. As the last day of the year settled around us, we found ourselves sharing this slice of paradise with a young family, Ben and Kerry, along with their two boys bringing life and laughter to the quiet evening air.
Watching those children at play stirred something deep within us - memories of our own children at that age, when their worlds were as boundless as their energy. Their parents' proud eyes and patient smiles mirrored our own journey through parenthood, prompting quiet reflections on how swiftly time flows, like water through our cupped hands, impossible to hold onto yet precious in every moment.
As the evening drew closer to midnight in this corner of Tasmania, technology bridged the vast distances separating our family. Our video calls connected us across oceans and time zones - to our two adult children making their way in Japan, their faces glowing with stories of their own adventures, and to our third back on the Sunshine Coast, holding down the fort where our own journey began. Each conversation was a testament to how love transcends distance, how family bonds stretch but never break across the miles that separate us.
The calls were bitter-sweet symphonies of connection and separation, joy and longing, pride and nostalgia. Through pixelated screens, we shared stories, laughter, and those precious moments of silence that only families understand. Our children's voices, carried to us through the digital ether, painted pictures of their lives unfolding in different corners of the world - each one writing their own story, yet still connected to ours by invisible threads of love and shared history.
Though our stay at Zeehan would be brief, with new destinations calling us forward into the fresh year, this New Year's Eve became a crystalline moment in time - one where the past, present, and future seemed to converge under Tasmania's star-strewn sky. As we settled in for the night, our hearts were full with the reminder that home isn't a fixed point on any map, but rather the constellation of connections we carry within us, spanning continents and crossing oceans, binding us together even as we journey apart.Weiterlesen
River Songs & Railway Dreams
30.–31. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Through curtains of rain and wisps of cloud, our journey to Lake Burbury became a meditation on nature's mysteries. The mountain peaks played hide and seek through the mist, offering fleeting glimpses of their majesty before disappearing again into the white void. Each lookout point along our route held the promise of revelation, yet delivered only whispers of the landscape's true character - a reminder that sometimes the most profound experiences require patience and faith.
Our arrival at the lakeside campsite stirred something deep within us - that familiar thrill of discovering an untouched sanctuary, the kind of solitude that had become precious to us throughout our Tasmanian adventures. Setting up our temporary home at the water's edge, we felt that peculiar mix of gratitude and anticipation that had become the heartbeat of our nomadic life. Though the lake remained veiled in rainy mist, our experiences at other Tasmanian waters had taught us to trust in the promise of dawn's unveiling.
That trust was rewarded as the next morning painted our world anew. The lifting of clouds felt like nature drawing back heavy curtains, revealing a theatre of beauty that left us breathless. Mountains stretched toward the heavens in every direction, their reflections dancing on the lake's surface like mirrors to infinity, creating a moment of pure wonder that reminded us why we chose this life of perpetual discovery.
The generous gift of long summer days in these southern latitudes allowed us to ease into the morning, savouring the simple pleasure of unhurried time. Our destination, East Pillinger, beckoned with promises of stories etched in rust and stone. This ghost town, once vibrant with the dreams of a thousand souls on Macquarie Harbour's edge, now stood as a testament to the impermanence of human ambition.
The journey to the trailhead became an adventure in itself, our bus navigating the old train line cutting like a time traveler threading through history. The humid forest pressed close, creating an almost primeval atmosphere that demanded respect and careful navigation. Anth's dance with the landscape - trimming branches here, inching through impossibly tight spaces there - became a metaphor for our broader journey: progress often requires patience, skill, and sometimes, the humility to move forward one careful inch at a time.
Our hike through the World Heritage area became a symphony of natural and human history. The constant companion of the Bird River, its waters stained rich amber by tannins, provided a mesmerising soundtrack to our journey. Like a ancient storyteller, its fast-flowing waters seemed to whisper tales of the countless seasons it had witnessed, its voice rising and falling as we traced the ghost-path of long-vanished train tracks. Though the iron rails had surrendered to time, the chronicle of human enterprise remained etched in the landscape - carefully constructed embankments stood as monuments to determination, weathered sleepers emerged like verses in a poem of progress, and abandoned telegraph lines reached toward the canopy like fingers trying to touch the past.
Reaching East Pillinger, we honoured our arrival with a quiet lunch at the pier's edge, where Macquarie Harbour's waters lapped gently below, singing lullabies to the ghosts of industry. The town's remains spoke to us in different voices - the preserved boilers and kiln brickwork stood proud like elderly storytellers, while the slowly vanishing deluxe train carriage reminded us of nature's patient reclamation of all human endeavours
Our return journey along the historic track became a meditation on time's circular nature. The Bird River's song, which had accompanied our outward journey with such enthusiasm, now seemed to carry a different melody - more contemplative, as if matching our own reflective mood. Each step retraced was a reminder of how differently we experience familiar paths when viewed through the lens of fresh understanding. The late afternoon light filtered through the ancient canopy in entirely new ways, highlighting details we'd somehow missed earlier - a fallen sleeper half-buried in moss, telegraph wire glinting like silver threads in the sun's slanting rays, the way shadow and light played across the weathered embankments. Our footfalls fell into a natural rhythm with the river's flow, and we found ourselves walking in comfortable silence, each lost in private thoughts about the lives that had once animated this wilderness. The ghost town of Pillinger seemed to follow us in spirit, its stories now woven into our own ongoing narrative of discovery. By the time our waiting bus emerged through the forest's embrace, we carried with us not just memories of what we'd seen, but a deeper appreciation for how places like this mark us, changing something fundamental in how we view the delicate dance between human ambition and nature's patient reclamation..
As afternoon shadows lengthened, we made the decision to continue our journey rather than spend another night at Lake Burbury. With Sal's precious holiday time ticking away, the call of unexplored trails pulled us northward back toward Queenstown.
Yet before leaving this chapter of our journey, we paused at the Confluence - a powerful metaphor made manifest in the meeting of waters. Here, the orange-stained Queen River, bearing the scars of human industry, met the pristine dark flow of the King River in a dance of redemption and reminder. We sat in contemplative silence, watching this beautiful collision of human impact and natural resilience, each lost in thoughts about our own place in this delicate balance.
A practical stop at the cemetery for water became our final farewell to this landscape of contrasts. As we pointed our compass north into the unknown, we carried with us not just full water tanks but fuller hearts, enriched by another day of discoveries both physical and spiritual in this remarkable corner of Tasmania.Weiterlesen
Sacred Waters & Ancient Paths
29.–30. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
The journey beyond Derwent Bridge stirred memories deep within our souls as we sought out the spot where we had once camped with Grammy on Lake King William's parched bed. Nature's cycles had transformed this cherished place - where our bus once stood on dusty earth, water now rippled and lapped at the shores, the broken drought bringing renewal to this sacred corner of our memories.
Our westward passage along the Lyell Highway drew us deeper into Tasmania's ancient wilderness, each mile a step further into nature's embrace. The Franklin River Nature Trail beckoned us into its mysterious realm, where moss-draped trees stood as ancient guardians of time immemorial. We wandered in reverent silence along the banks of the fast-flowing Surprise and Franklin rivers, their waters singing songs of countless seasons past, the very air thick with the weight of history and natural wonder.
Just minutes drive further along our path, the trailhead to Frenchman's Cap emerged - a multi-day adventure we lovingly tucked away in our hearts for future sharing with our adult children. Today's journey led us instead to the swing bridge spanning the Franklin River. One by one, we crossed its suspended path, letting the gentle rain wash over us as we paused midway, each lost in contemplation of how deeply our nomadic life had transformed our very beings. As if orchestrated by fate, a fellow wanderer emerged from the trail just as we stepped off the bridge - another outdoor educator, the fifth we'd encountered in Tasmania, his spirit kindred to ours as he shared tales of his hitchhiking adventures across the island.
Donaghys Hill Lookout called to us next, its relatively modest two-kilometer ascent offering rewards that far outweighed the effort. Standing at its summit, the panoramic views served as nature's consolation for the longer hikes we'd chosen to postpone, each vista a promise of adventures yet to come.
Twenty minutes along the winding road, another trail beckoned, adding another precious chapter to our day of short but soul-stirring walks. The Nelson River greeted us with its swift-flowing waters, cutting through moss-covered rainforest like time itself. The recent rains had transformed the river into a powerful force, building our anticipation for the waterfall that awaited us. When we finally reached the cascade, it greeted us in full, magnificent flow, its mist embracing us on the viewing platform like a cool blessing. We captured this moment both in pixels and in our hearts, each droplet adding to the day's growing epic, despite - or perhaps enhanced by - the persistent rain.
Lake Burbury appeared transformed from our last crossing, its waters now shrouded in mystery by clouds and mist, so different from the clear skies that had blessed our passage at the year's beginning. Through Gormanston's mining vestiges we traveled, ascending bare hills that told silent stories of industrial past. The Iron Blow Lookout revealed its copper-infused waters, a startling blue jewel set in the scarred landscape below.
The story of these mountains unfolded before us - trees sacrificed to feed the copper smelter's hungry furnaces, while toxic sulphur fumes and acid rain created a wasteland where forests once stood. Without the protective embrace of trees, the earth withered, and heavy rains stripped away the precious topsoil. The sulphur-saturated ground painted the landscape in unusual pastel hues, a haunting beauty born from environmental tragedy.
Returning to the Lyell Highway, we answered the call of Horsetail Falls, a sight that had tantalized us during our previous passage. The boardwalk guided us along the hillside, the falls thundering with renewed power from recent rains, its fifty-meter descent commanding our attention throughout the journey. A newly completed section of track led us to the fall's summit, where Queenstown spread out below us in the valley. A conversation with a part-time local, full of pride for his town, added human warmth to the natural splendor surrounding us.
Queenstown welcomed us to its famous 'Gravel' - the unique Australian Rules Football oval that spurned grass for stone. As we settled in for the night, fate brought us neighbors from our old Sunshine Coast home, fellow travelers circling Australia's vast expanse. The day's abundance of experiences had filled our souls to overflowing, leading us to forgo our usual evening entertainment in favor of peaceful reflection.
Dawn brought overcast skies and practical necessities - long-overdue laundry and fuel stops becoming moments of quiet contemplation in this historic mining town. We savored a rare treat of coffee in a local café, each sip a small gesture of support for a community that had witnessed such dramatic transformation - from a bustling 20,000 souls to today's resilient 1,500. As we set our course toward Lake Burbury's shores, we carried with us the whispered echoes of Tasmania's wild heart, each moment a treasure in our continuing journey of discovery and growth.Weiterlesen
Echoes of Belonging
26.–29. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
The morning light cast long shadows across Little Pine Lagoon as we prepared to depart, each ripple on the water's surface seeming to whisper of adventures yet to come. Our reluctance to leave spoke of the profound way this place had touched our souls, yet the promise of new horizons beckoned with gentle insistence.
Derwent Bridge and Lake St Clair called to us, not just as destinations but as guardians of stories waiting to be discovered. The southern terminus of the Overland Track stood as a testament to countless journeys of transformation, its six-day trek a future promise we held close to our hearts - a dream to be shared one day with our adult children, when time and circumstance would weave our family's paths together once more.
In Bronte, a Highland town where water and wisdom flowed in equal measure, a chance encounter with a local resident walking their dog sparked profound reflection. Their casual mention of the approaching peak season touched on something deeper - our own evolution from travelers to something more intimate. After nearly a year in Tasmania, we inhabited that beautiful space between visitor and resident, nomads who had learned that home isn't a fixed point on a map but a state of being, a way of moving through the world with open hearts.
Anth's quest for a geocache led us to a piece of living history - a wooden stave pipe still carrying water after seventy years, its continued service a metaphor for the enduring spirit of this island and its people. These moments of discovery, these touchstones with the past, reminded us that every path we walked was layered with stories.
Lake St Clair unveiled its beauty gradually, first through the Frankland Beaches walk, where we merged our running program with the simple joy of exploration. The shoreline became our companion, walking platforms and beaches creating a rhythm beneath our feet as the lake's magnificent vistas stretched endlessly before us. Each step, whether running or walking, felt like a conversation with the landscape.
Our camp outside the National Park became a sanctuary of simplicity, shared only with one other soul seeking solitude. The Watersmeet Circuit the next day offered a different kind of meditation, its paths inviting quiet contemplation as clouds gathered and rain threatened. Weather, we had learned, was not an obstacle but a different lens through which to view the world's beauty.
As predicted, our peaceful camp transformed into a bustling waypoint for travellers heading to and from Queenstown. Yet even in this ebb and flow of visitors, we found our own rhythm, understanding that each person's journey held its own purpose, its own timeline.
When Sal's calf signaled for gentler progress, we adapted without resistance. This journey had taught us that sometimes the most profound experiences come not from pushing forward but from knowing when to pause, when to listen to both body and soul. As we bid farewell to Lake St Clair, its waters holding memories of our footsteps along its shores, we carried with us not just experiences but a deeper understanding of what it means to truly belong - not to a place, but to a way of being in the world.
The road to Queenstown and the West Coast beckoned, another chapter waiting to unfold in our continuing story of discovery, adaptation, and growth.Weiterlesen
Highland Magic: Three Days of Wonder
24.–26. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 8 °C
Christmas Eve was spent driving up into the highlands, slowly, because Anth had caches to find and because there is no reason to hurry on a road you have driven before when the only appointment is a day that arrives on its own.
There was another old one at Arthur Lake, twenty years in the same spot, still being logged. That is four of these now and they have become a small collection of their own: containers left in the bush by people at the start of a hobby that barely existed, still being found by people who were not born when they were hidden.
The light started going while we were still up there, and the highlands emptied of vehicles and filled with animals. Small wallabies going off the verge in that abrupt way they have. Then a wombat crossing the road ahead of us with the unhurried confidence of something that has never had to give way to anything. We slowed right down, which is what you do up there at dusk if you want to arrive with your bullbar intact and your conscience clear.
Through Miena and past the Great Lake Dam, then onto roads neither of us had driven, with the sun going down behind us the whole way.
The camp we had picked had a tent in it. One tent, nobody else, somebody who had come a long way to be somewhere quiet on Christmas Eve, and there was no version of pulling a seven-metre bus in next to them that would have improved their night. So we left them to it and went looking, and ended up at the boat ramp at Little Pine Lagoon, which was better than the place we had been aiming for.
The wind came up hard that night, as it does at that altitude, and the bus moved on its springs until morning.
Christmas Day, then. The first one out here.
We had talked about walking to Lake St Clair and did not. There was no reason to be anywhere. That was the whole point of it, and it took most of the morning to properly understand what we had been handed: a Christmas with nothing scheduled in it. No lunch to time, no drive to make, nobody arriving, nothing to be cleaned before or after. Just a lagoon, a bus, and a day.
We watched Violent Night, which is a film in which Santa Claus kills a large number of mercenaries with a sledgehammer, and which is now apparently our Christmas tradition. Nobody suggested anything else.
Then the calls, and this is the part Sal will tell you about.
Torrin and Sophie and Shea in Japan, in a ski town in the northern winter. Mack in Queensland in the heat. Us at a boat ramp in the middle of Tasmania. Four screens, three time zones, and every one of them wanting to talk rather than checking a clock, because none of us had anywhere to be. In a normal year those conversations happen in gaps: between courses, before someone drives home, with a room full of noise behind them. This year there were no gaps. There was just the whole afternoon and everybody in it.
Sal said afterwards it was one of the best Christmases she has had. Not one of the best of the last few years. One of the best.
She meant it, and she was not being brave about anything. There was no house to prepare and no schedule to run and nobody to perform any of it for. Her kids were happy, and told her so at length, and she got to sit at a lagoon in the highlands and hear it without watching the time.
Then, just before midnight, the aurora came back.
Faint. A low green wash in the south with a bit of structure in it if you looked properly, nothing like the May night and nothing like Trout Creek. Four now, in eight months. We stood out at the boat ramp in the cold and watched it do very little, on Christmas night, having spent the day exactly as we wanted.
On Boxing Day we had planned to move and did not.
The lagoon was flat in the morning and the birds were working it, and the wind that had been shoving the bus around all night had dropped to nothing. There was no reason to leave and every reason not to, so we stayed another night and did very little in it.
That is the part of this that took the longest to learn. Not how to find the good places. How to stay in them.Weiterlesen

ReisenderNot quite the display we had in May, but still a beautiful way to conclude Christmas.
The Dance of Separation and Return
23.–24. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Sal's brother had told us to cross the Batman Bridge if we ever got the chance, so on the way to Launceston we took the long way round and did.
It is a cable-stayed bridge over the Tamar, the first of its kind built in this country, and it looks like nothing else in Tasmania: a single A-frame tower leaning out over the water with the deck slung off it. It has been there since the 1960s. You come round a bend on a quiet road through farmland and there it is, an unexpectedly serious piece of engineering in the middle of nowhere, and we stopped and looked at it for longer than the crossing took.
Then Launceston for the resupply. Food, water, the whole list, done before the flight so that when Anth got back we could leave immediately and not lose a day of Christmas to a supermarket.
The airport goodbye was the shortest one we have done. Twenty-four hours. He was flying to Melbourne for the screening in the morning and coming back the following afternoon, which barely qualifies as a separation and still involved standing in a drop-off zone not wanting to be the first to move.
Sal drove out to Honeysuckle Banks. Fifth time at that camp, and she has still never slept properly there.
She had a night to herself and used it well: podcasts on, working on her book, nobody to consult about anything. And she made the bed. Properly made it, hospital corners and cushions arranged, the way you can when there is only one person's mess to manage, and then looked at it and did not want to get into it. She sent a photograph. It was, admittedly, a very good bed.
In Melbourne the screening went well. Bloods, questions, the usual battery of tests, and everything pointing the right way, with the actual decision to come in the new year. That is how these things go: you give them a morning and then wait a month.
He flew back on Christmas Eve and Sal collected him from arrivals, and the interruption was over.
Then west. Finally, actually west, after being turned back from it by a mechanic, a house move, Japan, shingles, an inspection and two screenings. Nothing left on the calendar and nobody waiting on us.
We drove out of Launceston on Christmas Eve heading for a coast we had not seen since March, with no plan for the twenty-fifth beyond being somewhere good when it arrived.Weiterlesen
The Art of Slow Living
17.–23. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 18 °C
Brady's Lookout came first, which was somewhere neither of us had been, and after nearly a year on this island that is now a rare enough thing to be worth the detour on its own. It sits high above the Tamar with the river laid out below in both directions, the whole valley visible, and it took ten minutes to get to from a road we had driven four or five times.
That keeps happening here. You think you have seen a place and then there is a turnoff you have never taken.
Narawntapu has three campgrounds and we took Koybaa, which is not the one with the best facilities and is the one with the fewest people. Then we sat there and waited some more, because Anth's trial was still unresolved and had been for a week.
The park turned out to have another of the Great Short Walks in it, which we had not known.
It runs out through several different landscapes in a few hours: wetland first, with birds working the shallows and that thick still air that sits over standing water, then coastal heath, low and salt-scoured and completely open, then Bakers Beach, which goes on for a very long way. Then up onto Archers Knob, which is not high but is the only high thing for miles, and from the top you get the beach running out one way and Bass Strait the other and the whole park underneath you.
We had it entirely to ourselves. Six days before Christmas, in a national park, on a good walk, and there was nobody up there but us.
The showers at the campground are cold. Not cool. Cold, in the way that makes you make a noise involuntarily, and after four hours of walking in December heat it was the best available option and we both took one.
Then Sal found protein ice cream in the freezer that neither of us had known was there, so that became pancakes and ice cream in the middle of the afternoon, which is not a bad way to finish a walk.
We were still running. This is the ongoing project: two people who spent years lifting heavy things and are now trying to get to five kilometres without stopping, which is a genuinely humbling exercise for anybody with a strength background. Different muscles, different lungs, different mental problem entirely. We are not there yet. We are closer than we were.
It was on one of those runs that we found Bakers Point, and moved the bus there the same day: right on the water, beach one side, nothing in the way of the view.
Two pieces of news arrived after that. Sal got another High Distinction, which is now two for two. And the trial call finally came, confirmed, with a flight on Monday and a return on Christmas Eve.
So Anth would be in Melbourne for most of the week before Christmas and back on the twenty-fourth, which gives us Christmas Day together on a beach in a national park in northern Tasmania.
It will be the first one out here. Last year we were in a house with the boxes of decorations in the cupboard and the same routines we had run for years. This year there is no cupboard. Whatever we do on the twenty-fifth will be the first version of something rather than a repetition of it, and neither of us has any idea yet what that looks like.
We sat out at Bakers Point in the evening and watched the tide come in and did not settle any of it.Weiterlesen
Sacred Spaces and Patient Hearts
13.–17. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Back to Honeysuckle Banks at Evandale, five minutes from the airport, which is the only reason anybody camps there and the only reason we ever do. Trains at night, aircraft overhead, headlights sweeping the windows. Sal has now had three separate goes at sleeping through it and has not managed one yet.
We were there because Anth might be flying to Melbourne and might not. The screening was arranged, then it was contingent, then it depended on something at the other end, and so we sat five minutes from the airport waiting for somebody else's decision.
Waiting is not interesting. You fill it.
So we went to Cataract Gorge, which we had been to in March with Grammy and Fran. The gorge is right at the edge of Launceston, dolerite walls dropping straight into the South Esk, and the strange thing about it is how quickly the city stops. Ten minutes from a supermarket you are in a proper river gorge.
Last time we did the standard route. This time we took the Duck Creek Trail, which runs along the upper part and is quieter, and Anth had a cache to find up there: another of the old ones, placed early, still being logged after all this time. That is three of them now that we have found in this state, and there is something in the fact that geocaching's founding generation came to Tasmania and hid things in it and the things are still there.
The old Duck Creek Power Station sits along that trail. Small hydro, early, long since decommissioned, the building still standing with the water still running past it. Tasmania is full of these. The whole state was wired up by people putting concrete in river valleys, and half of it has been superseded and left where it stands.
We came back through the main gorge rather than the way we came, which took longer and was the right call.
The next day Sal bought cushions.
There is a genuine question in a bus about how much stuff is too much, and the answer is not obvious, because seven metres punishes every unnecessary object and also has to be somewhere you actually want to be. Sal's position is that you cannot have too many cushions. This position is not universally held in the vehicle. But she is right that the difference between a functional interior and one you are happy to sit in all winter is mostly soft furnishings, and it costs almost nothing.
Anth spent the same day on the roof. Small pieces of ply, cut to fill the gaps at the ends of the solar panels and around the two MaxxFans, so that the whole roof becomes one covered surface instead of panels with holes between them. It is not much of a job to describe. What it does is give the roof a continuous shaded layer with an air gap under it, which in a metal vehicle in a Tasmanian summer is the difference between an interior you can sit in at two in the afternoon and one you cannot. It had been on the list for weeks and got done because there was nothing else to do.
Then the decision came, or the shape of one, and Melbourne was still hanging. Rather than sit at Evandale any longer we decided to go to Narawntapu, which is up on the north coast an hour away, on the reasoning that if a flight materialised we could drive back and if it did not we would at least have spent the days somewhere better than a camp under a flight path.
That is most of what the waiting taught us. Not much. Mainly that you should do the waiting somewhere with a view.Weiterlesen

ReisenderYes quite a few now. Definitely the most we ever had prior to leaving the mainland.
Detours and Unexpected Paths
12.–13. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Down off the plateau and back onto the Midland Highway, which we now know well enough to drive without thinking, and which was carrying considerably more traffic than it had in winter.
We stocked up before going anywhere. That is the arithmetic of heading west in this state: the towns out there are small and far apart and the prices reflect both facts, so you buy what you can where the supermarkets are and carry it.
Then a message came through, and west got postponed again.
It was another trial, which meant another screening, which meant Anth on another plane. The trials are how this life gets paid for and they are also the thing most likely to interrupt it, and by now we recognise the shape: a message arrives, a date gets fixed by somebody else, and whatever we had been planning goes back in the drawer. West has now been postponed by a mechanic, a house move, Japan, shingles, a vehicle inspection, and this. It is starting to feel like a place we talk about rather than a place we are going.
Launceston, then, since that is where the flights leave from.
We stopped at Ross on the way. Anth had been through in August on his own, walking the four corners and the bridge, partly because Grammy had wanted to see it and never got the chance. This time Sal walked it with him.
He showed her the crossroads, and the gaol on one corner and the church on the other. Then down to the bridge, and the hundred and eighty-six carvings on it, and Daniel Herbert, who cut faces into stone until they let him out. In August there had been nobody to tell any of it to. That is a different walk with somebody beside you, even the same one.
Summer had arrived properly by then. Fifteen hours between sunrise and sunset, which after a winter of losing the light at half four feels like being handed something. The days had stopped being a resource to ration.
Campbell Town for the night, at the free camp, which was busy in a way it had not been in September. Peak season. Vans everywhere, families, the whole island filled up while we were not paying attention.
We ran that evening, through the streets of the town instead of the bush tracks at Brady's Lake, which is a poorer surface and a better distraction. The brick trail was under our feet for part of it, all those names, and we ran over Red Kelly without stopping this time.
Then back at the bus, rabbits. Dozens of them, out across the grassed camping area in the evening, feeding and sitting up and taking almost no notice of anyone. They are a pest here and have been since the 1800s and they are extremely good at this, and it is hard to hold that against them while watching them work over a lawn at dusk.
We washed, ate, and put a film on. Launceston tomorrow, and a flight after that.Weiterlesen
Silver Waters, Wild Hearts
4.–12. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
We filled the water tanks at Ouse and then went up into the lake country, which is where the middle of Tasmania stops being farmland and becomes something stranger: a whole hydro system of connected lagoons and impoundments spread across the plateau, with short roads running between them. In Queensland you commit to a direction for a day. Here you can look at three lakes before lunch and still not have decided where to sleep.
What we look for now is specific and slightly unromantic. Open sky first, for the Starlink and the panels, which rules out anything under canopy. Then a view. Then nobody else. That order, in that sequence, every time. The internet stopped being optional the day the Masters started, and a beautiful site with a hill in the way is no longer a site we can use.
Tungatinah Lagoon looked good and we did not take it. We were being fussy.
At one of the stops we got talking to a bloke in a serious expedition vehicle, retired, who had been a science lecturer. Anth studied science, and the dates lined up well enough that the pair of them spent a while working out whether he might once have stood at the front of a room Anth was sitting in. Neither of them could settle it. He knew these lakes well and told us where to go.
Which is how we ended up between Lake Binney and Brady's Lake, on a flat piece of ground right at the waterline with lupins flowering along the edge of it.
Eight days there.
The fisherman was already a fixture. An older local who came out most days, set up, cast, and worked at it with the patience of somebody who has been doing this in the same water for a very long time. The cormorants were the problem. They were on the lake constantly, and whatever they were not eating they were scattering, and he would come and go with not much to show for it and a fairly detailed opinion about the birds.
Between the two lakes there is a kayak slalom course, gates strung over fast water where the hydro scheme lets it through. It is a serious piece of infrastructure sitting in the middle of nowhere. In eight days we saw exactly one person use it, running the gates alone in white water with nobody watching but us.
We trained most days, which out here has had to be reinvented more thoroughly than almost anything else. Both of us came out of a gym background where you load a bar and then add weight to it, and there is no bar, no rack, and no room for either. So it is bands, bodyweight and running, which after years of heavy lifting feels like taking up a different sport entirely. It works. It just took a while to stop resenting it.
The weather did everything in those eight days. Twenty degrees and glaring one afternoon, single figures and rain that night, wind coming down the lake hard enough to put chop on it. Some mornings the sun came up over the water and lit the whole lake orange. Others it stayed grey until ten.
Sal's second trimester marks started arriving, more distinctions, and there was a genuine dispute in the bus about which of us was more pleased about them. Anth maintains he won that argument.
Then a piece of admin surfaced. The bus needed its heavy vehicle inspection, which meant going back to Glenorchy. In a house you would call that a nuisance. Out here it is simply where the next few days go, and the difference between those two reactions is most of what ten months has done to us.
The last morning gave us three things at once. Mist sitting low on the water. A rainbow standing over the far shore. And a platypus, twenty metres from the bus, working the shallows in that unhurried way they have, diving and surfacing and diving again, entirely unbothered by the two people standing on the bank watching it.
It stayed a long while. We did not move until it did.Weiterlesen
Meadowbank Moments
29. Nov.–4. Dez. 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
REVIEW BLOCK
Source word count: ~400 words
Target range: 500–600. Six days, one couple met, one lake, and a lot of nothing happening. The nothing is the point.
Tic list hits:
"our home-on-wheels" (home on wheels)
"each mile a brushstroke in our ongoing canvas", "a fleeting brushstroke" (brushstroke twice, canvas)
"a living testament" (testament)
"taken root in our souls" (souls)
"a serendipitous moment" (serendipitous)
"the warm embrace", "ready to embrace" (embrace twice)
"our sanctuary", "wilderness haven" (sanctuary, haven)
"the call of the road eventually whispered its irresistible invitation" (siren song + whispered)
"our spirits expansive" (spirits)
Register offenders:
"our home compact, our spirits expansive"
"those precious moments now softened by memory's tender filter"
"a breathing, living testament to the nomadic spirit"
"weathered faces told stories of countless adventures" — third face-reading in this sequence
Fabrication watch: the weathered-faces line again. Also "their brief intersections with our lives adding depth to our journey" is asserting significance for people who are never described.
The honest read: six days at a lakeside campsite watching television. The source is embarrassed by this and dresses it in brushstrokes. It shouldn't be. Anth had shingles and a throat infection three days earlier, Sal had just finished a trimester with a High Distinction, and they had months of open road ahead with no ferry until June. Six days of doing nothing is exactly right, and saying so plainly is more interesting than pretending it was a spiritual pause.
The good material: Graham and Angela handing over their address in Western Australia. That's a standing invitation to a place they have never been and might not reach for years, and it's the sixth or seventh instance of unprompted generosity in this sequence.
Canon notes:
Day 330–335, November 29 to December 4.
Bethune Campsite, Meadowbank Lake. Previously visited with Grammy.
New cast: Graham and Angela, retired, Western Australia.
REWRITE
West out of Sorell at last, after weeks of saying it.
Full diesel, full water, which is the whole ritual before a long leg. Then over the Derwent, which we have now crossed at more points than we could list, and out through the Midlands into the country that starts climbing toward the middle of the island.
We stopped at Hamilton and got talking to Graham and Angela, a retired couple from Western Australia doing the same thing we are, at a different pace and with several decades more practice. The conversation went the way these do until, at the end of it, they gave us their address and told us to come and camp at their place if we ever get to WA.
We might. It is a long way and we have no plan for it and no date, and they know that, and they offered anyway. That is the seventh or eighth time somebody has done something like this and we have stopped knowing what to say beyond thanking them.
Then in to Bethune, on Meadowbank Lake, which we had camped at once before with Grammy back in March.
We stayed six days and did very little.
That was the plan and it was a good one. Anth was finally past the shingles and the throat infection, properly past it rather than pretending. Sal had submitted her last assignment and got her result and had nothing academic until the next trimester. There was no ferry until June and nowhere we had to be. So we sat by a lake.
There was a television series and we watched all of it. Not in the evenings as a treat, but during the day, with the door open and the lake outside, which is the sort of thing you feel vaguely guilty about doing in a beautiful place and should not.
Bethune is not one of the wild ones. It is a proper campsite with other people in it and vehicles coming and going, and after ten months of pointing the bus down forestry tracks looking for solitude it was fine to be somewhere ordinary for a while. People arrived, stayed a night or two, left. Nobody bothered anybody.
The lake sat there. We looked at it a good deal.
Then, at the end of the week, we packed up and kept going west, which is where we had been headed since the middle of November.Weiterlesen

ReisenderThat was nice of that couple to invite you to their place in WA whenever you go there. Glad to hear you are feeling better Anth.
Healing Waters, Hidden Treasures
27.–29. Nov. 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
Glenorchy for the hairdresser and the laundromat, which is a fair description of most town days: one person doing something for themselves and the other watching a machine.
Then Sorell for the post office, and by then the day was gone, so we did what we always do and opened WikiCamps to find somewhere within reach. A strip of beach at Lauderdale came up.
Before that, though, the after-hours doctor.
The shingles had not cleared and Anth had picked up an infected throat on top of it, which is what happens when your immune system has already been given something else to do. It had got to the point where it needed looking at rather than waiting out. So an evening in a waiting room, and antibiotics, and the particular indignity of being unwell in a place where you have no house to be unwell in.
We got pizza afterwards. Partly because neither of us was going to cook, and partly for Sal, who had finished the trimester and deserved something better than the celebration she had received so far, which was a mechanic's yard.
Pizza in the bus has a specific association now. The last time was Launceston in April, the four of us crammed into Grammy's hired Hiace on the final night, eating out of boxes and going back over three weeks of convoy. That was seven months ago. It does not feel like seven months and it also feels like something that happened to different people.
We got to Lauderdale after dark and set up quietly, curtains across, lights low, the way you do when you are on a beach strip rather than a proper camp. The surf was close enough to hear all night.
The next day was caches, which meant leaving in the morning and coming back at dusk, because a bus that is not there all day attracts no attention at all.
Then the result came through. High Distinction.
First trimester. Enrolled in July, started in September, and completed across a bush camp at Chauncy Vale, the waiting area of a truck workshop, several paddocks with borrowed internet, a fortnight in Queensland emptying a house, and a fortnight in Japan. She has not been a student since before the kids. She got a High Distinction.
We went out to the South Arm Peninsula on the strength of it, chasing a cache Anth had been looking at for a while: twenty-one years old, placed in about 2003, still there, still being signed.
It is at Goat Bluff Lookout, where there is a Second World War bunker on the headland. Concrete, half sunk, built to watch the approaches to the Derwent when there was a real prospect of something coming up it. Nothing ever did. The thing has sat there for eighty years being weathered, and at some point somebody put a small container near it, and for two decades people have been coming out to find it.
Then down to Opossum Bay, where the road ends.
Sal stayed with the bus. Anth walked the five kilometres out and back through the Gellibrand Point reserve, which was the furthest he had walked since Japan and about as much as he had in him. He got it done, slowly, and came back knowing he was not right yet but was closer than he had been a fortnight ago.Weiterlesen

ReisenderCongratulations Dal. 👏🏻👏🏻Well done. Hope you are over your Shingles & throat infections. Shingles can be very painful. I found caster oil on the rash helped a lot. Xx❤️❤️
A Pause Between Journeys
14.–27. Nov. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
We came back to the bus at Boomer Bay after most of a month away, and it was exactly where we had left it, which is not nothing when you have handed your house to people you met the week before.
Two weeks of that was Japan, with Sydney at either end.
Almost a week of it was with Torrin, who has been there since November 2023 and now has a city, a job, and a functioning life in a language we do not speak. Then Sophie and Shea arrived, not to visit but to stay: the two of them joining him to work the ski season.
So we flew home having watched a second child move to the other side of the world, which is a strange thing to be present for. Not a goodbye at an airport in Australia but a handover in Japan, the four of them sorting out accommodation and start dates while we were still there, already becoming a unit we were not part of. Mack was in Queensland. The family is now on two continents and we are the ones who left first.
Then a flight, and a car park at Boomer Bay, and back to checking battery percentages and finding water.
Then Anth got shingles.
Looking back, it had been coming for a while. There had been something vague toward the end of the trip, the sort of thing you put down to too much walking and not enough sleep, and it was only afterwards that it turned into what it actually was. Nerve pain, a rash following a single band around one side of him, and a fatigue that does not respond to sleeping. The virus sits in you for decades after childhood chickenpox and comes back out when you are run down, and two weeks of walking a foreign country on short nights will do that.
So the fortnight after we got back was not the West Coast, which is where we were headed. It was Chauncy Vale, and a mechanic, and a lot of sitting still.
Chauncy Vale in November is a different reserve to the one we camped in during June. Then it was cold and wet and quiet to the point of eeriness and we had it entirely to ourselves. Now it is green, loud with birds, and warm enough to sit outside. Same site, same trees, and we would not have recognised it.
The bus went in to the truck mechanic for work, which took what it took. While it was up on the hoist Sal sat with her laptop and worked, because the trimester was closing and the last assignments were due, and there is a certain comedy in a woman completing a Masters of Counselling in the waiting area of a heavy vehicle workshop.
People came through.
Finn and Alex turned up and we had coffee and did the exchange that travellers do: where have you been, what broke, what is worth the detour. It is the same conversation we had with Arli and Luke months earlier up at Mersey Forest, and it never gets old, because everybody has a different set of roads behind them.
Then Sue and Sail arrived, who we had never met and sort of knew. Geocachers. We had been signing our name in logs across this state for ten months and had been reading theirs, so the names were familiar even though the faces were not. Sail is presumably a nickname and nobody offered an explanation and we did not ask. That is a strange and pleasant way to meet somebody: you have both been leaving marks in the same containers in the same bush, months apart, without ever crossing paths.
Sal submitted her last assignment sometime that week, and the trimester was done.
First one. Accepted in July on the side of a mountain, started in September, and finished from a bush camp, a mechanic's yard and a series of paddocks with whatever internet was available. Three assignments in the week before Japan, more after, two days of compulsory workshops that cost a flight and a fortnight. She did all of it in a moving vehicle and none of it late.
What was left was small: post office, haircut, the ordinary business of a town day. And then west, which we had been saying for a month.
We drove that road once before, in March, with Grammy and Fran, when we had a schedule and a convoy and three weeks to fit an island into. This time there is nobody waiting and no ferry until June. We can stop wherever we want and stay as long as it holds us.Weiterlesen
Dawn's Promise: Journey Begins
27. Okt.–14. Nov. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Last night in the bus for three weeks, at Simon and Sue's place at Boomer Bay, with the packs done and standing by the door.
We had packed them the day before and then opened them again, twice, which is what people do. Two lightweight bags for three weeks, which after nine months of living in seven metres felt like an insulting amount of space and was in fact generous.
Torrin went to Japan in November last year. Two months before we left, while the bus was still on the driveway at Aroona with the fit-out unfinished and the whole thing an argument we were having with ourselves about whether it would work. He has never seen it done. He has never seen the life. Eleven months of photographs and video calls from lay-bys and paddocks, and a son on the other side of the world who has been getting the edited version.
That is what all of it had been for. The trial at CMAX, the screening flights to Melbourne, the fortnights of blood tests and controlled meals, the whole grubby practical business of selling a bit of your time to a pharmaceutical company. It bought this.
We made coffee in the morning, which is the ordinary thing we do every day and which felt like something else that morning, because it was the last one for three weeks and because of where we were going afterwards.
Then the bus got shut up properly. Everything off, everything locked, the gas isolated, the fridge emptied, all the small rituals of leaving something valuable in someone else's yard. Simon and Sue had offered without being asked and would be keeping an eye on it, which is not a small thing to trust to people we met a week ago.
We walked out to the road with a pack each to wait for an Uber.
There is a particular strangeness in that, standing on a verge at Boomer Bay carrying everything you need for three weeks, with the house you live in parked behind you in a stranger's yard and a plane at the other end of the day. We had spent nine months getting extremely good at going places slowly. Now we were about to cross the world in a day and a half to stand in a room with our son.Weiterlesen

ReisenderVery exciting!!! Bon Voyage. Love to both of you and to Torrin ❤️❤️🤣
Echidnas, Essays & Island Generosity
21.–27. Okt. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
A week out from Japan, and one more camp to find.
Lime Bay is up on the northern end of the Tasman Peninsula and we had never been, which after nine months on this island is becoming rarer. An hour and a half from the airport, which mattered, because everything that week was measured against a flight.
We got as far as Dunalley and there was an echidna in the middle of the road.
They do this. They are slow, they are single-minded, and they have no concept of a vehicle, and one of them was working its way across the bitumen at a pace that would have got it killed inside ten minutes. We stopped the bus and got out and encouraged it along toward the verge, which mostly involves standing in the right place and letting it decide, since picking one up is not an option. It went into the grass eventually without ever acknowledging that we existed.
Then over Eaglehawk Neck, the strip of land a hundred metres wide that once had a line of chained dogs across it to stop men escaping Port Arthur, and north onto roads we had not driven.
Lime Bay is a scatter of sites along a curve of coast and on a Monday there was almost nobody in it. We took a spot in full sun, which most people avoid and we now actively look for. The panels want it, the tinting handles the glare, and the insulation is good enough that the inside stays reasonable while the roof does the work. Nine months has taught us to read a campsite for solar aspect before anything else, including the view.
The spring changed the place mid-week. The Hobart Show holiday came round and the camp filled with families down for the long weekend, kids and dogs and the noise of a school holiday, after months of having these places to ourselves. It was not unwelcome. It was just a reminder that the island empties in winter and fills again, and that we had spent our first Tasmanian year in the quiet half of it.
Simon and Sue came out of that weekend. They live at Boomer Bay, not far, and somewhere in a conversation the problem of what to do with a seven-metre bus for three weeks came up, and they offered their yard.
That is now Michael, and Samuel, and John with the firewood, and Debi and Brett, and these two. We have stopped being surprised and started being slightly embarrassed by it.
Sal had three assignments due and spent most of the week on them, at the table, headphones in, while the camp got louder around her. They went in a few days before the flight. Three at once is a lot for a first trimester and she has had a fortnight of moving house in the middle of it, and she got them done from a paddock on a peninsula with the internet she could find.
To mark it we walked across the peninsula, which is short and easy, and came out on a beach with nobody on it at all. Not a person, not a footprint. Perfect spring weather, empty sand, and one of us newly unburdened. We had it entirely to ourselves for as long as we wanted it.
On the Sunday everyone packed up at once and so did we. The food had run out the night before, which we chose to describe as good provisioning rather than as cutting it fine.
Before Boomer Bay we stopped at the Coal Mines.
It is at the top end of the peninsula and it was the punishment station: the place Port Arthur sent men who had reoffended after already being sent to Port Arthur. What is left is stone walls, foundations, and the underground solitary cells, which you can go down into. They are small and they are entirely dark and men were kept in them alone for days at a time.
We spent a couple of hours walking it. Nobody else was there.
We flew to Japan in five days to see our son, who moved there because he wanted to. Standing in a hole in the ground where the empire put men it had already broken once, that contrast does not need pointing out, but it was there the whole time we walked around.
Then down to Boomer Bay in the evening, to Simon and Sue's, where the bus would sit while we were away.
Last night in Tasmania for three weeks.Weiterlesen
Coffee, Cockatoos & Coming Home
20.–21. Okt. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Anth spent the afternoon on the list. Water, groceries, diesel, all of it around Hobart, all of it the same circuit we have done a dozen times now, and all of it done alone for the last time in a fortnight.
Then out to the airport in the evening to collect her.
Sal got into the bus and it hit her harder than either of us expected. She had spent two weeks taking a house apart. Boxing it, sorting it, deciding what was worth keeping and what was not, and handing back the keys to the last place all of them had lived together. Then a flight, and a car park at Hobart, and up the step into seven metres of vehicle that smelled the way it always smells.
Coming home. That was the phrase she used, and she meant it precisely, and neither of us had quite realised until that moment that the word had moved.
There were assignments waiting and Japan coming, so we did not go far. Seven Mile Beach again, the day use area we had used the night before she left, ten minutes from the airport and good enough.
We walked the beach before bed. There was a moon on it and the tide was doing what it does and neither of us said very much, which after a fortnight of phone calls was the point. You cannot catch up on two weeks in an hour. What you can do is walk next to somebody again.
The cockatoos woke us.
Yellow-tailed blacks, a proper mob of them, in the trees right beside the bus, working through the cones and making the noise they make, which is somewhere between a wail and a complaint and carries about a kilometre. They drop what they do not want and it lands on whatever is underneath, which that morning was us. There is no sleeping through it and no reason to be annoyed about it.
So we got up and made coffee, both of us, in the same small space, which is the thing that had been missing for a fortnight. Not the beaches or the mountains or any of the rest of it. Two cups on a bench in a vehicle and somebody to hand one to.Weiterlesen
Gordon's Ebb & Flow: A Solo Chapter
3.–20. Okt. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Sal went through at Hobart and Anth drove back down to Gordon on his own.
Same spot. The one on the water facing east, where the sun comes up out of the channel behind Bruny and puts the light straight down onto the bus. He had sat in it in June while she was in Hobart with her friends, and again in September, and now for a third time. It is not a large camp and there is nothing much to it, and by that point it was the closest thing either of us had to an address.
Dion was still there, and on the first morning he asked for a hand. He had a second vehicle that needed shifting to Franklin, up the Huon, which meant two drivers and forty minutes each way through the orchard country south-west of Hobart. On the way back he stopped at a grocery store, which turned out to matter: the food in the bus had been bought on the assumption that both of us would be away, and the plan had changed, and Anth was now staying put for two and a half weeks with the wrong shopping.
The plan had changed because of the trials. There was another one coming after Japan and there was news to wait on, which meant staying reachable and staying in Tasmania rather than flying anywhere.
Then Dion and Girl Dog left, and it was just the bus.
Seventeen days. The weather did everything in that time: days of hard wind that had the bus moving on its springs from dark to dawn, days of flat brilliant sun off the water, days of low grey cloud sitting on Bruny and not shifting, and rain that came in and drummed on a metal roof for hours at a stretch. There is nothing to do about any of it except be there while it happens.
Anth worked through the maintenance list, which behaves the way maintenance lists always behave: you finish one job and the finishing of it exposes two more. Nothing dramatic, all of it necessary, the accumulated small attention that a seven-metre vehicle carrying everything you own requires if it is going to keep doing that.
And he watched the camp turn over.
That is the thing about sitting still in a place where nobody else does. Gordon emptied and refilled around him for two and a half weeks. Grey nomads would come in for a few nights and put their chairs in a ring and talk. Families arrived at weekends with kids who went straight to the water. Full-timers came through, recognisable immediately by how quickly they set up and how little they carried, stayed a night, went on. He was the fixed point. Everybody else was moving.
Somewhere in the middle of that he booked the ferry home.
The earliest crossing available on the Spirit of Tasmania was June. Not this year. Next.
We had come to Tasmania in February intending to see it properly and had never put an end date on that. Now there was one, and it was eight months away, and it had been chosen by a booking system rather than by us. Which means we are not visiting this island. We are living here, and will have been for well over a year by the time we drive onto that boat.
Two ways to take that. It is a constraint, arrived at without discussion, that fixes where we will be for the whole of a year we had left open. It is also eight more months of a place we have not come close to exhausting, in seasons we have not seen it in yet.
Both are true. Anth sat with it for a while and then got on with the list.
Sal, in Queensland, had two days of workshops and a great deal else.
The house at Aroona was being given up. Sophie and Mack had stayed on in it after we drove the bus out of that driveway in January, and so it had gone on being an address the family had, a fixed point somewhere behind us that we did not have to think about. Now the lease was ending and the two of them were moving into places of their own, which meant the last of it had to be boxed and sorted and carried, and somebody had to be there for the part where you decide what is worth keeping.
That was the real reason for the seventeen days. The workshops accounted for two.
It was the last place all of them lived together. It was emptied by the people who had lived in it, with Sal in the middle of that for the better part of a fortnight, and at the end of it the keys went back.
She flew into Hobart at the end of the week. Anth packed up the camp, drove north, and collected her.Weiterlesen
Beach Walks & Hidden Treasures
2.–3. Okt. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Over the Tasman Bridge and north to Sorell to collect Sal's contacts, which had been ordered a few days earlier and had come in, and which she would rather have in hand than have to sort out in Queensland.
Then out to Seven Mile Beach, on the strength of a recommendation from Justin and Tevin back in June. Justin has been off the island for months and we are still using his advice; he told us about the Mystery Creek glowworms too. Andy had been through more recently and confirmed it. The day use area sits ten minutes from the airport, which was the whole point, because Sal was flying in the morning.
We walked the beach in the afternoon.
Seven Mile is long and flat and open, and walking it stirred something neither of us expected: it walks like Wurtulla. Same width, same gradient, same firm damp sand at the waterline, and both of us said so at about the same time.
Wurtulla is where the bus was built. Not in a shed, on the street outside the house, over months, with the two of us going down to that beach in the evenings when we had had enough of it. It was a vehicle in pieces then and a plan we had not tested. We used to walk that sand and talk about exactly this: living in it, going somewhere, not knowing where.
Nine months later, on a beach on the other side of Bass Strait that happens to feel identical, with the thing built and the plan tested. And Sal flying out in the morning to empty the house the plan was launched from, because Sophie and Mack are moving into places of their own and the lease is up and it is time. Nobody we knew was on that beach and nobody was expecting us anywhere.
Back at the bus Sal had a tutorial, live, at a set time, so she sat at the table with headphones on while Anth went into the pine plantation behind the beach with a couple of hours of light left and came out with half a dozen caches. Plantation forest is good for it: even rows, easy access, and nobody about.
He got back around dark, as she was finishing.
Then the nightly performance. A gold seven-metre bus with solar panels on the roof, parked in a day use area, attempting to look unoccupied. We pull every curtain, rely on the limo tinting, and keep the lights low, and it is a reasonable effort right up until anybody looks at the roof. We have never been asked to move. Whether that is stealth or simply nobody minding, we could not tell you.
Last night together for a fortnight. She flew in the morning and Anth would drive back south to Gordon and wait.Weiterlesen
Pancakes, Paradise & Parting Ways
26. Sept.–2. Okt. 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
South from Oatlands to Sorell for the last of the errands: parcels at the post office, and an optometrist for Sal's contacts, which is the kind of appointment that has to be fitted around wherever you happen to be that month.
Then out to Gordon, because with a few days left before she flew there was nowhere either of us would rather have spent them.
It is busier now than it was in June. Spring has brought people back and the camp that we had almost to ourselves in the winter has vehicles in it. But our spot was free, the one on the water looking east across the channel at Bruny, and we took it for the fifth or sixth time.
Dion turned up in an old bus with a dog.
He has been doing this for ten years, which makes our nine months look like a trial run, and he had the easy manner of somebody who has long since stopped explaining himself to people. The dog is called Girl Dog. We asked. That is the name.
The weather had turned enough for the pancakes to come back. Sal's chocolate chip protein pancakes, which are a warm-weather thing for reasons of effort and ventilation, with Anth's protein ice cream out of the Ninja Creami on top. We had not had them since autumn. It is a ridiculous thing to be pleased about and we were extremely pleased about it, and it was the clearest sign yet that the winter was actually over.
Sal worked through most of the days. There is a rhythm to it now that was not there a fortnight ago: readings, assignments, lectures at fixed times, the laptop out at the table with the channel through the window behind it. She has not been a student in a very long time and it took a few weeks to remember how, and she has remembered.
On the last morning Dion helped Anth get the diesel heater ready to go to its new owner.
That thing got us through a Tasmanian winter. It came out of a post office in Hobart in May, portable, temporary, bought in a hurry because we had decided to stay on the island through the cold. Now it was going, because the plan is a fixed unit properly installed, whenever we get to it, and because there is no point carrying two of anything in seven metres. Still, you get attached. It sat in the bus for four months and did exactly what we asked of it.
Then north to Hobart and the airport.
Two days of workshops. That is what the trip was for: every trimester the course requires her on campus, in a room, on dates the university sets, and no amount of good internet or reliable power solves it. From a paddock at Gordon Foreshore that means a flight to Queensland, a place to stay, and the better part of a week away from the bus for two days of attendance.
We had known this was coming since July. It is a different thing when it arrives as an itinerary.
So Sal flew out, and Anth would drive back down to Gordon the next day and sit in the same spot on the water and wait for her, which is the arrangement now: one of us leaves, the other one keeps the bus somewhere good.Weiterlesen
Nightfall Drive to Oatlands' Calm
25.–26. Sept. 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 5 °C
Out of Launceston after dark, which we had said we would not do.
The rule was made in the first months and it was a good rule: no driving at night, because arriving somewhere in the dark tells you nothing about the ground you are parking on, and because Tasmanian roads after dusk belong to the wildlife. We have held to it fairly well. We are also, by late September, holding to it less than we did, and this was the second or third time in a few months that the day had run long and we had gone anyway.
The headlights did not help. They are the ones the bus came with and they are adequate for a suburban street and not much use on a highway with no lighting and animals at the edges. Anth drove slowly with his eyes on the verges the whole way and neither of us said much. Driving lights went back onto the wish list, where they had been sitting since a wet forestry road in August very nearly ended differently.
Oatlands is an hour and a bit south and we got there without incident.
Anth had been through in August on his own and not stopped, because the winter festival was on and the free camp was full of stalls and vehicles and people. He had turned round and gone to Tunnack instead. This time there were a handful of vans spread around the lake edge and room for anyone, and we pulled in beside Lake Dulverton with the town quiet behind us.
Same camp, six weeks apart, and unrecognisable. That keeps happening in this state. You go somewhere twice and it is two places.
The wind came up in the night and worked on the bus, which by now is so familiar that neither of us wakes for it. A vehicle that lives on its springs moves whenever the weather does, and after nine months the movement has stopped registering as anything other than the sound of being where we live.Weiterlesen















































































































































































































Reisender
Love this photo. Wild country …… wild looking couple. 😘🤣
Reisender🤣🤣
Reisender
Beautiful
ReisenderThe banjo experience would have been different!