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2023 Passport Chronicles

august - december 2023
  • Salma T
Embarking on an epic five-month adventure across multiple Spanish speaking lands to reset my cultural chakras! I’ll be collecting stamps, walking countless miles and creating lasting memories solo and with beloved travel companions. Læs mere
  • Salma T
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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 31: O Cebreiro to Triacastela

    11. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Total Distance: 22.1km
    Step Count: 33.1k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 23
    Injuries: shin splints

    We left O Cebreiro very early today as we were going to try to walk 30Kms and it was meant to rain in the afternoon (spoiler alert: ‘twas an epic fail!).

    I walked with Tommaso and Lukas today and they spent hours planning their walk to Porto after reaching Santiago. I was zoned out for most of the walk enjoying the scenery! It was another gorgeous section and we walked way too slow for a 30km day.

    A few kms before Triacastela, we decided we’d stay there and parted ways as we were all by now wanting to go at different paces. I was the first one to make it into town. The guys were meant to follow but Lukas kept on walking and ended up staying like 10km further ahead. I figured that would be the last we’d see each other until Santiago. 👋🏼

    I was on my own for a while so I sat at the local bar, enjoying a tortilla. I hadn’t had one in days and I was starting to have withdrawals 😅. I also hadn’t spoken to Jorge properly in days since Astorga so we talked for like an hour on the phone while I ate and doodled my way through the menu.

    Tommaso eventually popped by the bar to let me know he’d be cooking dinner and invited me to join. Until then, he went wandering and I stayed at the bar to paint for a bit.

    I thought I’d picked a low key table hidden in the corner but everyone passing by would stop to watch me and start commenting and asking about my water-colouring. It was very hard to finish the postcard with people constantly interrupting as I’d be working through some details. This included a group of women from Perth I’d met over 2 weeks ago and a group of Spanish speaking women I’d ended up befriending and walking with for a while the next day!

    A few more interruptions later, I gave up on painting (when good is good enough!) and it was almost dinner time. Tommaso made us some pasta and we went back to the bar for dessert 😋

    I was planning on going to bed after that (which would’ve meant some proper sleep) but ended up staying back and chatting with the Spanish/Colombian women for like an hour instead to the point we almost missed our Albergue curfew! So lucky we didn’t. 😅    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 32: Triacastela to Barbadelo

    12. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 25.3km
    Step Count: 36.1k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 24
    Injuries: shin splints

    Today, I started a bit worried about what would come the next few days as everyone who has done the full Camino or was already ahead said that the Camino magic is lost after Sarría, which I’d pass today. This city was towards the end of this stage and just before the 100km mark. So many people start their walk from there as the last 100km are the ones required to get the Compostela (certificate of completion of the Camino de Santiago) so they’re considered a different type of pilgrims.

    I met up with the spanish speaking ladies from the night before and off we went! The day was cool and the walk was beautiful, mostly in the forest. A few kms in, I lost the ladies as I was walking faster and also lost the trail for a bit (distracted 🙃). By the time I realised I was off the trail and walked back to the junction I missed, I met up with the group again and also met Mercedes (another lovely lady from Mexico). I ended up walking with Mercedes for a while until we lost each other in one of the stops.

    I kept on going aiming to do a quick detour to check out a very unique place: “La Casa del Alquimista”. This 200 year old rural house was set up by a man who works with minerals as raw material for his art, which is showcased all over the house. The man passed away a few years ago but his son took over the place and it was very interesting to see the contrast in their styles. 🖼️

    The lady who welcomed people there was so lovely and asked for our names. When I said mine, she was like “Oh! You’re Lukas’ friend! He stayed here last night and left like an hour ago”. I was like “Ah, so that’s where he went?, he just left without saying much… I think he was trying to get away from me haha” to which she replied “Oh I’m certain he cares for you very much because he talked about you a lot!”. 🥰

    Shortly after leaving the alchemist’s house, I was going down a road with a cafe when who do I see sitting on a table as if he hadn’t left me the day before? My lil bro, Lukas! I knew he’d miss me haha and I annoyed him for the rest of the day.

    Lukas and I ended up staying at the cafe for like an hour or 2 waiting for Tommaso to catch up and in that time we met a couple of Dutch men who were doing the camino together and the first Venezuelan pilgrims along the way.

    After we were all reunited again, we kept on walking and decided we didn’t want to stay in the big town so we pushed on for another hour after to Barbadelo which had a beautiful Albergue with a massive garden and pool. It was too chilly to swim but we relaxed during the afternoon drinking sangrias.🍷

    At dinner time, we asked everyone around us if they wanted to join tables and we ended up meeting Jan and a few others. Lots of laughter and an endless debate about coffee marked the end to another beautiful day on the Camino where the magic had not yet been lost! ✨    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 33: Barbadelo to Portomarín

    13. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Total Distance: 17.9km
    Step Count: 31.3k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 25
    Injuries: shin splints

    Today started with the most beautiful moon and the biggest coffee I‘ve probably been served in my lifetime! ☕️

    There was a bit of excitement as we’d reach the actual Km100 mark although the Camino would end very quickly after that.

    Close to our first coffee stop for the day, we reunited with Mercedes and Little John, and we’d all spend most of the day walking together.

    Despite the loads and loads of pilgrims on the way, the trail was so beautiful and full of cute animals, shadow from the trees and so many other lil surprises like the man playing the bagpipes and so many cool stamps! 🐴

    Short days and stopping every so often had become our new thing! So was getting our drinks on. 🍷

    At the last cafe, we bumped into Christian and his friend. After a few (way too many) jokes, Chris ended up gifting each one of us a pair of tiny Dutch clogs. He’d been gifting them to special people along the way. In exchange to this lovely gesture, I offered a watercolour (at his own risk obviously) which he happily accepted and that’s how my own camino stamp came to be! 🎨

    We were all also commenting on the crazy amounts of people and in an attempt to create somewhat of a bubble that would hold our camino magic, we all agreed to meet up for dinner in town. 🍝

    The entrance to Portomarín was so beautiful, crossing the bridge over the reservoir. In town, we also went to see the Church of St. Nicholas which was relocated stone by stone when the reservoir was built. You can actually see the numbers on the stones that were carved to make sure it was rebuilt exactly as it was in its current location. ⛪️

    For dinner, we ended up at a proper Italian restaurant (the only one we ever encountered) and indulged! Tommaso picked some flowers for all of us too 🌺

    There was so much laughter over dinner and at one point we decided that for 3 minutes, everyone was going to speak at the same time but in their native language. There was around 7 languages on the table and it was a fascinating and hilarious experiment. 😂

    It was nice to still have this bubble and before calling it a day, we all agreed we’d aim to do it all over again at the next town!

    Only 84km to go 😬    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 34: Portomarín to Palas deRei

    14. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Total Distance: 25.6km
    Step Count: 36.9k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 26
    Injuries: shin splints

    The morning today was very foggy which added a dramatic effect to the beautifully green landscapes of Galicia! The trail was jam packed with people so we had slowly became more focused on the destination for the day, getting there quick! Maybe it was the feeling it was all soon coming to an end too 😕

    At one of our first stops, I had to have a tortilla as for days they were nowhere to be found. Tortilla withdrawal is a thing! But somehow, always encountering uphills every time I decide to stuff my face with food had also become a thing!

    Today I was more whiny about this than usual so Lukas dragged me up a hill for a solid 5-10 minutes! It was actually working and so many people looked at us like we were crazy but we knew deep down they were jealous haha. If this isn’t solidarity and support at its finest, I don’t know what is!

    In one of the towns we went through, we also came across a donativo albergue run by South Americans offering pilgrims treats and drinks for a coin donation. It had a very fun environment and I especially loved the gratitude bell they had outside! Great seeing people ring it, including me. I was definitely feeling grateful. They also gifted me a postcard to make sure would end up in the hands of a person I’d like to send a special message to.

    We’d also received a recommendation to stay at albergue San Marcos at Palas de Rei (which had the only yellow stamp we’d come across!) and Lukas and I scored the last bunk! We dropped everything and went to find lunch. Little did we know that we’d end up at the bar from around 3 till 10pm!

    Every single person we knew started showing up to the point we drove the waiter and other staff crazy with our orders! They wanted us to order on the table which meant a joint bill so we started going individually to the counter instead. They weren’t happy about this but hey, over 10 people and 7 hours consuming go a long way even for grumpy Spaniards if you explain and ask for things politely. They loved us by the end of the night! 😊

    Another wonderful evening with this newish camino family and only 66km to go! 😬    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 35: Palas de Rei to Arzúa

    15. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Total Distance: 30.9km
    Step Count: 45.1k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 26

    Today was all about food! 😋

    We had been told on endless occasions that we had to eat Pulpo in Melide so we planned our starting time to be there around lunchtime.

    Surprisingly, we also had like 2 hours at the start of the day where there was hardly anyone on the trail, absolute bliss! We figured that most people wouldn’t walk further than Melide so they had no need to start early.

    This small city was roughly half the distance we’d plan to cover today so we embraced the slightly longer day for a good cause. A great cause actually because it was one of the best meals we had on the whole Camino! 🐙

    Mercedes and I seriously feasted on octopus and shared zamburiñas (a whole other level of deliciousness!). This did leave us with a slight food coma and the rest of the walk would be a bit slower than usual 🙃

    By the time we got to Arzua, we were beat! We went to find our beds, did some laundry and napped for a couple hours until dinner time. Mercedes was staying elsewhere so Lukas and I went hunting for a place to eat.

    We ended up at the Albergue Café de Ultreia where we ended up enjoying the most elaborate pilgrims menu on the Camino and I finally got to eat Lasagna which I’d been craving for weeks! And a salad that wasn’t an ensalada mixta! 🥗

    Lukas wasn’t feeling that great and we were beat so we went to get some fruit for brekkie the next day and called it a day. Less than 40km to go 😯    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 36: Arzúa to Lavacolla

    16. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 30.1km
    Step Count: 44.5k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 26

    While it was a relatively early start to a long day, Lukas wasn’t feeling all that great so we were walking very slow. There wasn’t that many people on the trail and we stopped a every time one of us was craving something.

    At one point the boys picked up the pace on a hill and we lost track of each other. After like 2 hours, Tommaso messages me their location saying that Lukas is feeling unwell. They had stopped at a cafe but I never saw them so I was already like 5km ahead. There wasn’t a doctor in the lil town where they were so we agreed they’d catch a taxi to O Pedrouzo (the next big town) and I’d meet them there. I was only like 45min away.

    It turned out Lukas hadn’t been eating much the prior days leading to exhaustion and dehydration. In town, we accompanied him to the hospital but without insurance it was outrageously expensive to be seen so we just followed the guidance of the chemist and reassess in Santiago. 🏥

    Tommaso was set on making it to Santiago that day and I was stopping at the km12 mark. Lukas couldn’t walk anymore so he decided to catch a cab to the town I’d be staying at and get some rest. It was 10km from where we were and he was doing ok so I went walking. I left him getting a bite to eat and we’d meet up at the Albergue. Luckily Mercedes found him shortly after I’d left so he had company the whole time.

    The last 10km to Lavacolla (which literally means “wash the bum”) were so beautiful and I got another couple of really cool stamps!

    When I got to the Albergue, Lukas was already out! He slept for like 5 hours straight, got up to go grab some dinner (the worst we ever had on the Camino) and then back to sleep. Poor thing 🤒

    The day ended receiving messages from those in our group who were all arriving to Santiago that evening, so much shared joy! ⛪️

    There were only 12km to go for us but they’d have to wait till the morning!    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 37: Lavacolla to Santiago

    17. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Total Distance: 12.2km
    Step Count: 24.8k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 26

    Woohoo! We reached Santiago today!

    It was an early and slow start with my lil bro still a bit unwell but he powered through to the end. It was only a couple hours walk, all flat and easy.

    Mercedes messaged us quite early too to meet up on the trail and we met up 800m before the cathedral and walked into the square together ☘️

    We weren’t tired and didn’t know how we’d feel but as soon as we walked into the cathedral square, we were encountered by a few pilgrims we knew who were there waiting to meet and congratulate us! And a few minutes into all the hugs and excitement more people we knew showed up and we didn’t really get a chance to process or take in anything. It was done and we were still surrounded by so many beautiful people full of joy and gratitude for the joiurney, the company and all the experiences and lessons learnt. ✨

    When it dialled down a bit, my lil bro and I laid down on the floor taking it all in for a few moments before we had to go get out certificates and make it to the midday mass. Five minutes later, the international bunch had appeared and joined in. ⛪️

    Lukas and I had a bet about me crying on the day which he ended up winning because as soon as the church organ started playing, I was overcome with so many emotions that tears were inevitable. The mass was beautiful and the music so powerful. 🎶

    After mass it was time to celebrate but a few people staying in Santiago had to go sort out their beds so it was only Mercedes and I who ended up going to lunch together. We were the only ones leaving town later that day.

    We found a lovely restaurant with shelter from the rain and had a feast! And of course, it wasn’t long before our 2 people table had to make room for like 6 other people. This was one of my favourite things about the Camino: running into people you know when you least expect it! This included reuniting with people I hadn’t seen in days/weeks.

    A few wines later, it was time to say “see you soon” to everyone in the group. With some luck, I’d see Mercedes when I’m in Mexico City and the rest, I’d see in 2 days for a big reunion that was planned in Santiago. 👋🏼

    PS: Just as you’re about to walk into the cathedral square, there is someone playing the bagpipes. My theory is that it’s there to make you think it’s more exciting than it really is? 🫣    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles
    1

    Camino Day 38: Fisterra

    17.–19. sep. 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    If I had more time, I would’ve walked to Fisterra (the end of the earth) but instead, I caught a bus in the evening, aiming to have a full day in town before returning the day after. I arrived at my albergue and after collecting the last stamps to complete my pilgrim’s passport, I went to sleep and for the first time in a couple weeks, I didn’t have to set my alarm. 😴

    In the morning it was raining so I enjoyed a very long breakfast and then set off towards the Km 0 point near the lighthouse. Since Fisterra is still part of the Camino, it wasn’t a surprise bumping into Standa on my way up. He was part of the last 100km crew.

    It was a short 3km walk there and the ocean views along the way and from the lighthouse were stunning! At the top, I found a comfy rock and sketched for a couple hours, reflecting on my journey and everything I had experienced. 🎨

    When I finished, I went back into town to sort out dinner before returning to the lighthouse again to catch the sunset! It’d been a while since I’d seen the sun set on the horizon. 🌅

    Seeing the sunset here was also quite special. For thousands of years, it was believed that this place was the end of the world and that beyond this point there was nothing more than a place where the sun went out every night among sea monsters. 🤷🏻‍♀️

    After the most spectacular sunset and twilight, I walked back in the dark and went straight to sleep. A bus tomorrow morning would take me back to Santiago for one last hurrah before leaving for Madrid. 🚊    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Camino Day 39: Last night in Santiago

    19. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    My 3 hour bus ride to Santiago turned out to be a 1 hour bus so I arrived earlier and was in desperate need for a coffee. ☕️

    I checked to see who was available and a cup of coffee with 2 peeps was quickly followed by a few tintos de verano with half of the last 100km crew who’d we’d bumped into walking about town: a blessing in disguise!

    I told the crew that soon I’d have to go pick up my suitcase and check in at my hostel but when I told them where I was staying, they let me know that poor Bence had stayed there the night before and that there had been bed bugs. He got bit a lot and ended up in the hospital.

    Luckily I was able to cancel my booking but I still had to pick up my bag and find somewhere else to stay, enter the Dutch crew who pointed me in the direction of their Albergue which fortunately had beds (with no bugs) available!

    Mid afternoon, I went to meet up with David who had walked into Santiago that morning. We’d met 39 days prior in Saint Jean before we started walking and it was lovely to hug and celebrate at the end. 🤗

    After a long chat in the square sharing reflections about our journeys, we went to meet up with my lil bro and a few others for dinner to celebrate reaching Santiago and Judy’s birthday! We didn’t have to say goodbye yet as we’d all meet for coffee in the morning.

    It was around 10pm and a few of us weren’t quite ready to call it a night so we went to the bar where we thought we’d find the Dutch crew for one last drink and to say goodbye as they would leave Santiago early in the morning. 👋🏼

    When we couldn’t find them, we thought it was a sign to go to sleep but as we walked towards our Albergue, we spotted them at a random bar! 🍻

    It was so nice to be able to say goodbye to so many people who I’d met along the way! And surprisingly I didn’t get as emotional as I thought I would. That is until I found myself alone at the station waiting for my train to Madrid to depart and tears just came from nowhere: so many feelings and so much gratitude for the journey.

    I’d walked over 1,000km and my body was intact, as if I hadn’t walked a single day! More importantly, I’d met beautiful people, made new and hopefully long lasting friendships, opened my heart to love again, was showered in generosity and kindness from strangers and had seen and enjoyed Spain in such a unique way!

    It was a very bittersweet moment realising that my Camino hadn’t ended but I wasn’t walking on it anymore. ✨    Læs mere

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  • Salma TRejsende2023 Passport Chronicles

    Madrid reunions: take 1

    21. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I couldn’t believe I reunited with Erika today after more than 12 years! She took the afternoon off work and offered to pick me up in Madrid’s city centre (so sweet!).

    The first stop was her favourite Italian restaurant for lunch, yum! yum! yum! 🍝

    We were then gonna head out of the city to a beautiful town in the mountains with a Monastery but on the highway she decided we’d go elsewhere. 🤭

    We ended up at the Palacio Real de la Granja de San Ildefonso, the best example in Spain of a formal French-style garden. It was raining a bit but still so beautiful to walk around. Most importantly, we were talking nonstop like 2 parrots and laughing so so much!

    Before heading back with a breathtaking sunset, we went to Segovia and I got to see the aqueduct, a monumental civil engineering feat and one of the best-preserved Roman works.

    And, naturally, we couldn’t say adiós without sharing one final drink! It was a beautiful day spent with one of the most incredible people I know! 🤍    Læs mere

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