Two more days in the Bolivian desert

There aren’t enough photos to capture how beautiful this place is and how much we took in over the next 2 days. The desert wasn’t normally a landscape I was drawn to but here everything was jawLäs mer
There aren’t enough photos to capture how beautiful this place is and how much we took in over the next 2 days. The desert wasn’t normally a landscape I was drawn to but here everything was jaw dropping!
⛰️ Lakes and mountains of all the colours!
🦙🦊 Wildlife everywhere!
🦩 So many flamingos!
🏊♀️ Hot springs!
💨 Geysers!
✨ Stars!
There are also no photos of the moment our Land Cruiser almost fully tipped over or when Nath and I had to part ways at the Chilean border because someone (sorry chikita!) forgot to check for visa requirements 🤦🏻♀️
It was a very abrupt and unexpected end to 2 unforgettable weeks travelling with my bestie, creating memories in yet another continent 🌎 🙌🏻 🧡
PS: I will be forever grateful to have found a couple tour guides still at the Bolivian border that were happy to give me a ride back to Uyuni. They only charged $20 for the 7 hour return trip that ended up including a free lunch and wifi in the car so I could organise my accommodation for that night 🙏Läs mer
I didn't get much rest, having to wake up at dawn to catch my bus to Humahuaca. In a few hours, I'd be in Argentina with around four weeks of absolute freedom and no plans 🫣
Unlike Chile, crossing the border from Bolivia to Argentina was a breeze! After two buses and about six hours of travel, I arrived in the loveliest little town. The hostel was super cozy, so I decided to stay a few days to rest and explore at a leisurely pace 😌
I spent the first day wandering around town, painting, eating, and enjoying the local food. The empanadas were so delicious and cheap, and I quickly started losing track of how many I had! 🤤
I also met wonderful people in the hostel who made my stay even more enjoyable. A few of us visited La Quebrada del Hornocal, where we saw the stunning Cerro de los 14 Colores (the 14-colored mountain)! ⛰️
Then I met Henri, a cool French guy with a car, and we teamed up to visit La Quebrada de las Señoritas. This place has a fascinating legend about a group of ladies who hid a treasure from the Spaniards during Incan times, and sacrificed their lives to Pachamama, which in turn formed coloured peaks in their honor. We had a lovely day hiking in this arid landscape, and our guide was amazing, taking us off the trail to see and connect with very unique rock formations 🪨
Back at the hostel, I spent a lot of time with Mauro and Rama, two friends cycling from Mendoza to Mexico! We taught each other how to make different kinds of bracelets and had an amazing social night with Rama’s pizza-making skills. I also tried fernet for the first time (but wasn't sold on it) 🍕
I even discovered a random song about the town folk, which Jorge, of all people, told me about when he found out I was there. It was one of his favourites apparently, and our chef recreated it with a flute 🪈
After a few days of taking it easy, it was time to move on. Luckily, Henri and I were both headed to Salta, so our adventures would continue for a few more days! 🚗
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Note to self: learn how to make empanadas norteñas or go back to Argentina for some more!Läs mer
From Humahuaca, Henri and I embarked on a breathtaking 3 hour road trip to Salta, surrounded by stunning mountains the entire way. The joirney itself was a visual treat and it was nice to be travelling in a car. 🛣️
We had hoped to experience the famous ‘Train to the Clouds,’ but since this leg of my trip was unplanned, I hadn’t realized it required booking weeks in advance. So the stay in Salta was brief but nice.
We explored the town, enjoyed a typical Peña, and hiked up to the cable car station, which offered fantastic views of the entire city. The Peña was a highlight, filling the night with joyful music, beautiful dancing, and a traditional Argentinian BBQ that left us in a delightful food coma. The next day’s hike to the cable car station was a perfect way to walk off some of that delicious food. 🥩 🍷💃🏻
The morning after, Henri and I parted ways, as we were heading to Cafayate via different routes. I wanted to stay an extra day in Salta to find a post office, send Lukas the poncho I'd been carrying since Cusco and mail a few postcards. 📦 💌
From there I took a bus to Cafayate and to our surprise, we ended up at the same hostel! 🏨Läs mer
Next on the itinerary was Cafayate, a cute town known for its wineries.
I was delighted to find out that Henri was staying at the same hostel, which was incredibly cozy, featuring a large garden with a bar, music, fairy lights and nightly film screenings outside. It was the perfect place to unwind, paint and relax. Within a few days here, the hostel guests and volunteers felt like one big family.
Henri and I ventured out to find more empanadas, and they exceeded our expectations! We also explored several wineries around town. We also met Mike, and the three of us enjoyed a fantastic meal at a beautiful winery outside of town to bid farewell to Henri 🤗
During my stay, I also met Maria, who was volunteering at the hostel, and Marta, who was traveling through Argentina. We decided to tackle the Quebrada de las Conchas route on bikes—50 kilometers under a scorching sun! So we rented bikes and took an 8:30am bus towards Salta, hopping off at Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) to avoid cycling both ways. 🚴🏻♀️
After a short climb at Garganta del Diablo, we set off on our bikes, stopping at El Anfiteatro, another impressive rock formation. There, we met a lovely man who, upon hearing I was Venezuelan, played "Alma Llanera" for us—a truly special moment in an incredible setting with amazing acoustics. 🎶
Next, we visited the Tres Cruces viewpoint and many other stops along the way for some fantastic panoramic views, and goats! We returned to Cafayate just after 3pm, over six hours after starting our ride. The final 10 kilometers felt endless, but we finally made it back and organised a big dinner with the hostel crew, filled with laughter and great conversation (and empanadas of course!). I absolutely love this place!
The following day, Mike and I explored the local museum, enjoyed more good food around town, I bought some crochet needles and enjoyed much needed downtime. 🎨
A couple days after that, Marta and I left Cafayate together, sharing a bus to San Miguel de Tucumán before going our separate ways. But not before spending our last morning attempting to hitchhike to another winery out of town (very unsuccessfully), experiencing a wine tasting at a very random ‘winery’ in town with surprisingly great reviews on Google, and finally ending up at La Bodega Domingo Hermanos where we got to farewell Cafayate in style! 🍷Läs mer
After more than 15 hours on buses, I finally arrived in Mendoza. It was mid-afternoon, and before long, I connected with some wonderful people at my hostel who were organising a massive Argentinian BBQ for their last night. I joined them for the evening, indulging in mouthwatering steak, great conversation and plenty of laughter 🥩
The hostel had a pool, which made me excited to settle in for the next few days!
After a rest day exploring the town, I embarked on a full-day tour to see Aconcagua. Unfortunately, hiking was out of the question as it wasn’t the season, but I made the most of it. We spent a lot of time on the bus, but the breathtaking views, the interesting stops along the way, and the sky clearing just in time to reveal Aconcagua’s peak made it all worthwhile. It was also so nice to chat with so many locals 🏔️
I also met a cool Brazilian guy with whom I walked almost the entire city one day. We got lost in Parque San Martín on our way to Cerro La Gloria, where I unexpectedly ran into Brieuc from Cafayate (what a small world!). The walk through the enormous park and up the hill was a blast. We even scored a free bus ride back to the hostel-lucky us! 🚍
The next day, I met up with Brieuc and was introduced to a couple of his friends, and we all ended up hanging out the following evenings between BBQs, dinner and even some dancing at a club! 🕺🏻
My last night was particularly memorable. So many travelers gathered around a fire at a hostel playing guitar and singing, before heading to a club for a few hours of partying! In the morning, I met up with the guys for breakfast to say goodbye and before catching my flight to Bariloche 🔥
Mendoza wasn’t my favourite city, but as usual, it’s always the people❣️Läs mer
Gettinge to Bariloche was an adventure in itself. Somehow, I was the unlucky passenger whose baggage had to be removed from the plane and searched before I could board. It felt dodgy and weird, but thankfully, nothing came of it except for a brief scare that I might miss my flight. A couple hours later, I was in lakeside bliss! The drive from the airport to my hostel was just a glimpse of how beautiful this place truly is.
I lost track of how many days I spent at Indomito Hostel. It’s been an amazing stay, starting each morning with a hearty, healthy and delicious breakfast in the most beautiful setting! 🥣
When I arrived, I met Augusto 🇦🇷, my dormmate, and the next day we met Mauri 🇦🇷 and his partner Sofia 🇲🇽 (a lovely couple living in 🇪🇸). They had rented a car and invited us to join them on the Chico Circuit, a 60 km route through stunning landscapes. Along the way, we stopped to try chipá (delicious baked cheese buns made with cassava flour 🤤) and drank lots of mate (a daily tradition in Argentina 🧉).
I’ve the next 2 days, before he left, Augusto (Piti) taught me all about mate, from beginner tips to advanced techniques, and even put me to the test as the cebadora (the one who serves the mate) on a beautiful afternoon by a waterfall with Ina 🇦🇹. Luckily, I passed the test 😊
By then, I’d also met Mike 🇲🇽, one of the volunteers at the hostel, and we bonded over our shared love of arepas and hiking. Mike made arepas almost daily and organised an off-the-beaten-path hike for a few of us, including Ina, Mari and Mery 🇪🇸, and a couple other hostel volunteers. We never found the track we were looking for or reached the summit, but the day spent bushbashing in the wilderness, with breathtaking views, is unforgettable!
The days at Indomito blurred together as I met more people, enjoyed social activities (the volunteers loved to party), painted, journaled and explored the area.
With Mike, the two Marys and Lucas (another hostel volunteer), we also ventured on an overnight hike to a Refugio on Lake Jacob. Many trails around Bariloche were still snow-covered this time of year, and while this one was no exception at the top, it didn’t disappoint! 🏔️
By then, we’d also met Laura 🇳🇱 and Gio 🇧🇷, with whom we spent many enjoyable moments—chatting, sharing meals, eating all the franuí we could possibly find, dancing and having fun at the hostel and around town!
There was a fair bit of drama at the hostel involving a few love triangles ❤️🔥, so the Merys and Laura decided to escape and go with me to El Bolsón for a few days of hiking. I only had two nights left in Bariloche when we returned, which were spent with these wonderful gals I hope to cross paths with again! 👯♀️👯♀️
We danced and enjoyed an incredible group lunch on our last day, and the next morning set out on a drive to San Martín de los Andes via the 7 Lakes route, which, as often happens, didn’t quite go as planned!
A song to remember: Ni Una Ni Dos 🪩Läs mer
Sometimes all you need is a girls’ trip!
I’d heard that El Bolsón had a mountain range where you could hike from hut to hut for days, so I had to see it for myself. Luckily it wasn’t difficult to convince three lovely gals to join me, making it an unforgettable adventure! 🛖
We had just three nights on the trail so we decided to do a point-to-point hike 🗺️
The first day starting from Doña Rosa was breathtaking, crossing glacier coloured rivers surrounded by so many yellow flowers in full bloom. However, most of the 15km trail to Hielo Azul was steep, winding through dense forests. It was literally a maze of fallen trees for hours so we were thrilled when we reached the hut in time for dinner and much-needed rest.
Day two took us 11km starting with a tough river crossing, followed by a brutal uphill climb, gaining over 1,000 meters to reach Refugio Natación, which was closed due to snow. However, the snow-covered landscape was a stunning winter wonderland, and we couldn’t resist having a pitstop to indulge in some dulce de leche (a weird new obsession for me on this trip!). After a bit more of this snowy stretch, we had to tackle a steep and super tough descent surrounded by jaw dropping scenery before arriving at Cajón del Azul, a beautiful hut in a sheltered valley for a warm and welcoming stay. ❄️ 🔥
Cajón del Azul felt like home, with its cozy fire oven and baked goods. It was also where we discovered pasta flora—another foodie favorite from Argentina! We had so many over the two days and told everyone we met about them, earning the owner many new customers. They were so pleased that they showed us how to make it and even shared the recipe! 🧑🍳
Our third day began with a beautiful walk along a canyon, followed by a gradual climb through lush, quiet forests before reaching Casa de Campo, our final hut. This place was magical, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, greenery and farm animals. Freshly made doughnuts with dulce de leche, mate, a communal dinner, spontaneous yoga and guitar music made it a perfect last night. We even experienced musical tarot cards and shared so many laughs and tales with the other hikers! 🧘🏻♀️
On our last day, the trail from Casa de Campo to Wharton was a gradual downhill for the most part, leading us back through Cajón del Azul for more mate and pasta flora. To our surprise, the end of the trail had a brewery in the most gorgeous setting—a perfect way to end the trip. 🍻 🍻
There were also plenty of bloopers along the way, the funniest being Maria’s attempt to toss her waist bag across a river not once, but twice! The bag fell straight into the moving water on the 2nd attempt but luckily, she was quick enough to jump in onto a rock and retrieve it. We were all on the other side watching it all as if in slow motion. We also ended up hitchhiking our way back to El Bolsón from Wharton, meeting lovely locals!
There were more videos and photos we didn’t ended up getting because Mery lost her phone a couple of weeks later 😅
But this is a place I’m certain I’d like to return to someday!Läs mer
The 190km road trip from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes along the Seven Lakes Route has to be one of Argentina’s most scenic drives?
But the start wasn’t quite as planned! It was supposed to be the four of us gals, plus Gio, but the Marias had partied a bit too hard the night before and weren’t in any shape for a road trip. Over breakfast, as we tried to figure out who could drive the manual car we’d rented (a bit of a challenge since only Laura could drive), we met Brian 🇦🇷, a fellow traveler who’d arrived at the hostel the day before. Somehow, we convinced him to join and drive too—specially since the plan was to drop me off in San Martín to meet up with Ado, so I wouldn’t be returning to Bariloche. And just like that, an hour later, we were off! Laura, Gio, Brian and me 🚙
We headed north, following Lake Nahuel Huapi, and saw seven stunning lakes along the way: Correntoso, Espejo, Escondido, Villarino, Falkner, Machónico and Lácar.
Along the route, we stopped at Villa La Angostura, a charming town where we stocked up on mate and grabbed some lunch—maybe a few too many empanadas for another perfect #LunchWithAView!
The trip was a blast, full of photo stops, great music and perfect weather. The company was fantastic, with so much laughter along the way. We also got to know Brian well—he turned out to be one of the kindest, most generous people, and though he was new to solo travel, here he was one day into his trip on a spontaneous road trip with us! 🛣️
We made one last quick stop before reaching San Martín, where, somehow, we ended up dancing Jerusalema on the side of the highway—just before the police drove by (luckily, not the dance police! 😅).
Arriving in San Martín felt a bit like entering Queenstown, NZ, but with better food and way more affordable.
Once there, we met up with Ado at the lodge we’d be staying at for the next few days and caught up with Matheus and another friend from Bariloche at a café before saying our goodbyes. ☕️
I’d miss these beautiful people, but with my bestie by my side and a new place to explore, I was ready to make even more unforgettable memories!
San Martin was pure bliss! Ado worked most days, but each evening we’d head out to explore the town and treat ourselves to good food.
We’d only been there a couple of days when Maria joined us! We’d been trying to reconnect on our travels, and though it was only for three days, we were thrilled it worked out.
The first day she arrived, the three of us went up to Arrayan. From there, we took in stunning views of San Martin before making our way back to town with the sunset. 🌅
With Maria there, I finally had a hiking companion! So on her last day, we trekked to Mirador Bandurrias and La Islita, where we swam in the stunning (but freezing) lake and took in the warm Patagonian sun.👙
That night, we celebrated with beers and tapas at a cool bar in town. It was Maria’s last night, so I met her again in the morning to say goodbye and the following day, Ado and I flew to Buenos Aires for more reunions and good times ahead. ✈️Läs mer
With some people, time just doesn’t seem to matter. The friendship is so strong that, no matter how long you go without seeing each other, you pick up right where you left off❣️
The biggest change since my last visit to Ado and Luis in Buenos Aires was the addition of two furry friends. Leighton, who I hadn’t seen since 2014 and was now living in Argentina as well, had grown a big beard and unruly hair. Then there was Bruno, the most adorable four-legged companion, who “spoke” with a lisp and gave the best hugs (literally!). 🐕🦺
With our close-knit group back together, there was so much to do.
One highlight was the day the 4 of us spent in San Telmo, indulging in delicious market food (which reminded me of Madrid) and wandering through its colourful streets, full of life, music and all things Argentina! 🧉
There was also a beautiful day at the Japanese Gardens with the original crew although we made sure to visit other parks too so Bruno was also included. Buenos Aires has so many parks and is incredibly flat—one of the best cities for walking! 🚶🏻♀️
Ado and I, united by our love of books, also explored several libraries around Palermo, often leaving with more books than we could read! But most importantly, we would always find a quiet corner to sit, read and indulge in our favourite, timeless tradition: our beloved and never ending cafés conversados ☕️ 📚 🤓Läs mer
Just when you thought Buenos Aires couldn’t get any better, a few more days of foodie adventures, reunions with dear travel buddies and live music were in store!
It all kicked off with a night out near Palermo to reunite with Mike and Gio, who had come from Bariloche to Buenos Aires. I was so happy to see them again!
To top it off, I finally made it to La Sanguchería (aka “La Sangu”) to indulge in Luis’ specialty subs. He’d opened his food venture about a year ago, and it was no surprise that his subs were earning endless 5-star reviews. Yum! Ado and I shared two different ones since there were so many to try! 😋
You’d think we’d take a break from indulging, but that only lasted until the next evening when Ado and I hit Avenida Corrientes—a vibrant street full of theatres, bookstores, pizzerias, and nightlife.
You’d think we’d take a break from indulging but that lasted us only till the next evening when Ado and I went to the famous Avenida Corrientes, a vibrant street known for its endless number of theatres, bookstores, pizzerias and nightlife!
Ado had already planned a night out to see Palabra Plena, a reflective monologue by renowned Argentine psychoanalyst Gabriel Rolón, where he explores themes of language, human emotion and authenticity through a theatrical clinical case. It was captivating—so much so that I bought his latest book to be my final read of the year 🎭 📕
But before the theatre, we grabbed a slice at Guerrín, a 90-year-old pizzeria famous for its traditional Argentinian pizzas, followed by pistachio gelato at Cadore—yum and yum! 🍕🍨
The next day, we headed to La Plata to see the legendary Fito Páez. Ado and I had seen him nearly 15 years ago in Caracas, then again virtually during the pandemic, and now once more on this trip! It was incredible, but before heading to the stadium, we stopped for lunch at Argentina’s first focacceria. Yum again! We had a lovely meal discussing some of our favorite Spanish words like sobremesa. The 2-hour bus ride there and the even longer Uber ride back were totally worth it! 🎤
After all that, we finally had a rest day before spending a whole day making hallacas -the beloved Venezuelan Christmas tradition- with some delicious Argentinian wine! 🫔 🍷
And this was not even close to the end of the food bonanza! I knew they had more in store ☺️Läs mer