Bush bush baby

While waiting for the German delegation we follow a recommendation of Albert's neighbour in Cape Town to step into the central Kalahari south east of Ghanzi. Again we challenge sand tracks and 15 cattle gates until we reach Grassland Bushman Lodge which turns out to be a little-known gem! Bush, bush, bush!

The lodge features its own game reserve and is run by a nature conservationist from South Africa. She manages the place for five years and, most interestingly, also takes care of "problem-causing predators" which, for example, leave the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and scavenge on nearby farms. Together with the government she works on relocation of these animals into new, safe (from humans) habitats, which turns out to be complicated and time-consuming. Luckily today is feeding day!! The helping bushmen (San) went to nearby farms, got a wildebeest and some zebra chunks and we join the party to feed two lions, three lionesses with one having two cups, two leopards and a pack of 17 wild dogs. They have to be fed twice a week. Holla die Waldfee!

What we learned so far: The presence and groans of the lions keeps other free-roaming lions from approaching the premises of the camp. The leopards' mother has been shot when they were young and could not teach them how to hunt. Yeah, and what about the wild dogs? They are a highly endangered species because packs of wild dogs claim huge territories which simply got so rare that the packs cannot/will not settle anywhere without causing problems. Imagine that the whole Kruger National Park - which is as big as Israel - gives space for just 2-3 packs of wild dogs! Bigger packs have to hunt multiple impalas or other medium-sized antelopes each day and this is where they show the highest hunting success rate among the African predators with around 80 %. In contrast, lions are rated at around 40 %. Here in Botswana and eastern Namibia you find the last untouched, big wilderness landscapes with the highest density of cheetahs around Ghanzi.
Anti-poaching of rhinos and other endagered animals is taken care of by Botswana's national guards who have the right to shoot anybody they suspect of poaching directly on site. Hmm, the government wants to make a strong statement. Unfortunately these poachers are mostly locals who would have gotten paid just a few bucks for killing of the desired animal. The whole background mafia and bribed politicians stay untouched though. So, don't tell anybody where you saw your rhinos ;) Lately they also introduced regulations for shooting of elephants because with 200,000 individuals the population is exploding in Botswana! Here you get a good feeling for the tremendous challenge of keeping a balance between wildlife, humans and untouched nature. For us Europeans it seems quite easy to take a rash judgement about buss news: "Oh, they shot an elephant! Monsters!". Come here first before judging anybody from your sofa and earl-greyed cup of hot water back home.Read more