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Maine and Canadian coasts
  • Sea Fever
  • David Wilkinson

Maine and Canadian coasts

A 38-day adventure by Sea Fever & David Read more
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  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Scruffy finds a mermaid

    On our way

    August 20, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    It’s very cold today!! 10kn wind, maybe barely 70 degrees on land. I’m wearing a sweatshirt and pants. You can see David is not bothered by the cold at all.

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Possibly Owls Head Lighthouse.
    We are heeling in a nice wind, near Otter Island.

    Rockland, ME

    August 20, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We arrived in Rockland Harbor a little while ago. We had a beautiful sail today, a close reach in 15-16kn winds, at times going almost 6-7 knots— not bad for dragging a dinghy. Sunny day. No sea mammals today, tho. We did see a couple of unusual birds but we think they are a type of gull (possibly a Bonaparte Gull). Somehow we just don’t get too excited about gulls. But I’m sure they deserve some recognition.

    The wind died (and I finally warmed up) once we came into the bay here. We will be here tonight and tomorrow night.

    No one has recommended Rockland so I don’t expect this to be a happening town, but we will be able to re-supply and hopefully David will find a Navionics dealer to beat up. Haha.

    Love hearing from all of you!! I think otherwise this could get very lonely!! And this is way better than sitting through a boring slide show, right?!?!    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Rockland HarborWinslow Homer, "Girl in a Punt"Crazy quilt at the Rockland art museum from 1880, artist unknownAndrew Wyeth, "Goodbye, My Love." This was a building we saw on Allen Island; it is a sail loft.David standing next to a 2nd Order Fresnel lens, the second largest size.

    Rockland ME

    August 21, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We explored Rockland today, and loved it. It seems like a creative, energetic small city. Lots of art galleries, a great art museum, antiques, TWO independent bookstores!! And one of Collin’s college friends, Jack, lives here.

    David and I found a nice coffee place this morning complete with disgustingly large, delicious cinnamon rolls. David had to return to the boat to fix the septic (really bad job, so glad he knows how to do that) so I explored the bookstores, the Island Institute (connected to Allen Island where we stayed the night before last) and saw the art museum (while David was doing shower math, see entry below) and then we met at the Lighthouse Museum.

    The art museum has lots of Andrew Wyeth’s work, Winslow Homer, some Frank Benson, Fitz Hugh Lane, Frank Bellows, and at least one Prendergast. I didn’t have time to see everything but did the best I could. One of the Wyeth paintings referenced a building on Allen Island that we saw!

    The connection with Allen Island is from the owner, Betsy Wyeth (widow of Andrew). The Wyeths supported the Island Institute by establishing Allen Isl. as a campus for the Institute.

    The lighthouse museum was fascinating. We got to see close up how the many prisms (of the Fresnel lens) increased the light projected by the lighthouses. They also had models of the Nantucket, a restored lightship that we have often passed while sailing in Boston Harbor.

    It was wonderful to see Collin’s friend Jack tonight. He told us all about his work at the Island Institute, where they are trying to find ways for Maine island communities to be sustainable, economically and culturally.

    We may leave tomorrow and head to Isle Au Haut, but we are expecting rain and possibly fog. We will wait til morning to see what the day is like.    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    1First pay shower machine!

    Pay Showers

    August 21, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This is a new wrinkle for us but it’s happened twice now, pay showers! The first time, you put in quarters not really knowing how much time you will get. First quarter gave me five mins, second two mins, third 3, fourth 4. As I was feeding the clock a man came in soaking wet, lathers up, wearing a towel, he looked at me and said: “ran out of quarters”. My first time I was able to complete my shower with time to spare; I’m sure it gave me more than indicated. But I was not going to let it go to waste, so enjoyed the extra time😊

    Today’s marina was different. The machine had eight slots for quarters so I put in eight quarters and pushed in the bar. Thinking I had ample time, per my first experience, I took my time, which was a mistake! When I was completely lathered up, the water stopped. No problem, I still had six quarters. Unfortunately it only takes eight at a time. I recalled the man from the earlier experience and had great empathy. Not to be deterred, and only with a small towel, I opted to finish at the sink. Nobody else was in the place, so I set about splashing water over me from the sink. That’s when another gentleman came in, took one look, turned and left. Go figure😂    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Rockland Harbor Light. 5 sec flash.Owl Head, low lying cloud.

    Leaving Rockland ME

    August 22, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Saw this majestic 93’ schooner, Heritage, coming out of North End Shipyard just now. This shipyard was started to try to rescue the old ships, and it has worked. Maine has the largest collection of windjammers/schooners in the world.

    We are heading to Vinal Haven instead of Isle Au Haut. About 10 miles, should take 2-3 hours and we should have at least 1 mile of visibility.    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Note the pink flamingo on the bowsprit.

    Perry's Creek

    August 22, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    It did rain during our voyage today, most of time just lightly. Once we got into the Fox Islands Thoroughfare, however, the rain started to get more . . . Well, wet, frankly. Anxious to get out of the rain, we ducked into Perry Creek just as the rain seemed to have stopped. We grabbed a mooring, lost it, then grabbed another (thanks to directions from a helpful gentleman nearby), and sighed in relief. As we stood under the Bimini (canopy), the skies opened up and it started raining cats and dogs!! We scurried below and changed out of our wet clothes. Once the rain stopped a couple of hours later, we realized that we had found a beautiful, serene cove.Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    David fixing the pin.
    Perry CreekLeaving Perry CreekThe arrow shows where the top of the pin was before David fixed it.

    Northeast Harbor, Mt. Desert Isl., ME

    August 23, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Today we said good bye to our new friend, John McLeod, from Perry Creek. He gave us invaluable advice about traveling to Canada, plus he had a lovely Scottish brogue.

    It was a beautiful day after yesterday’s rain. It was still cloudy and humid, but not bad. There was no wind til afternoon (typical) so we motored, but once we got to Jericho Bay the wind was close to 10 knots so David put the sails up. We had a great sail for 2 hours, with the wind getting up to 13-14 knots. As we were slowing down from our turn into York Narrows, we turned the motor on, but could tell immediately that something was wrong.

    We had snagged a lobster pot. I have to say, those pots have been everywhere, with barely enough room to bring a boat between them. We had been watching them like hawks because we know the trouble they can cause if they get hooked on a keel or a motor. Somehow, just as we were turning, one got underneath the boat, and when we turned the engine on, its line immediately wrapped around the propeller. We stopped the engine, trying to figure out what was wrong. David knew exactly what to do— leave the engine off, take the sails down, and get the anchor down to give us time to figure out the problem so we wouldn’t end up on the nearby rocks or colliding with another boat in the channel.

    Once we figured it out, David called the US Coast Guard to give a “securite” notice, which is what a boater needs to do when he is obstructing a channel (you give a “mayday” only if there is a threat to life). After that, David jumped in and swam under the boat with a knife to cut the line of the lobster pot. It took him about 15-20 minutes to get it. It had been wrapped around several times, and the lobster pot itself was hanging off the prop, so the line was very tight.

    Once he got it, he climbed back on the boat, called the USCG to cancel the securite, raised the anchor, and off we went.

    No, in answer to your questions, there were no lobsters in the pot.

    We didn’t put the sails back up, because we were a little stressed from watching for the pots. Once we got into Northeast Harbor, about 2 hours later, we settled in and started making dinner. David cooked on his new boat grill. While we were waiting for the burgers to cook, there was an annoying squeak from somewhere around the mast, so I went up to see where it was coming from. It seemed to be from the mast, especially from where the boom connected with the mast. Wait a minute, why is the boom crooked? Why does that pin look like it is falling out? I made David come look, and yes, the pin that holds the boom to the mast had been sliding down out of its socket, which could have meant that the next time we raised the sails, the boom could have fallen off.

    To make a long story short, David fixed that too, while grilling the burgers!!

    I have to admit, I am still stressed from both of these mishaps. David is fine. I feel like I’m lucky to be married to Superman. He is thrilled that I made him organize his tools before we left.

    I keep thinking, “there but for the grace of God . . . “ and of all the prayers that are with us. I don’t know what is keeping us safe, but so far, so good.🙂    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts

    Securite, Securite, Securite!!!

    August 23, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    (Lisa suggested I add my version of the lobster trap story because I could add more detail. Hope it’s not too repetitive.)

    Mariners will recognize the title as the hailing when you are in trouble but not quite at “mayday” status (life threatening). All was well as we left our most peaceful anchorage in Vinal Haven, at Perry’s Creek. We headed for North East Harbor, a long sail but we decided to try and make up some time in getting to Canada. We were motoring, as there was very little wind and we needed to average at least 5 kts to make our next anchorage.

    At this point I need to say a word about lobster traps: THERE ARE MORE FRICKEN LOBSTER TRAPS THAN THERE ARE LOBSTERS!!! I don’t know how any lobster could possibly escape getting caught! When you are motoring you have to be more vigilant than when sailing as the traps can be inducted into the prop and leave you hopelessly fouled, a situation you don’t want to be in! When siling, the prop is not spinning, so the line would not get wrapped up.

    As the wind began to build, we decided to hoist the sails and shut down the engine and relax a bit about the lobster pots. We got on a nice reach and I opened a cold one👍 The reach turned into a run, and we got into a tight channel with heavy current, so it was time to fire up the engine to ensure we don’t get in trouble. I started the engine, put it in forward and immediately heard the awful rapping of a lobster pot wrapping around the prop. As we what been only sailing, I had not been paying much attention to the pots and it seems the money moment I decided to start the engine we were right on top of one😩 Not only did it induct into the prop but as we were just starting up, not running at speed, it jammed really well in between the prop and the hull and could not be dislodged. We realized immediately we were in a pickle and knew we had to first stop the boat from drifting into to nearby rocks, pull in the sails, and figure out what to do next. We dropped the anchor pronto and as luck would have it, it held. That meant priority number one was taken care of, to stop the boat. Next, we pulled in the sails in record time👍 Oddly enough, though the anchor was holding, we stayed abeam to the wind and current as opposed to turning directly into it. I would discover shortly why. Once under reasonable control we notified the Coast Guard with a “Securite” call. The coast guard was quickly responsive and pulled all critical info from us: how many on board?; do all have life jackets?; confirmed lat/Lon position, and asked what we needed. The Coast Guard wanted to call SeaTow! We decided to dive under the boat and see if we could free up the prop. It was then I learned why we were abeam to the wind and current: the line was still attached to the string of traps so we had the stern held in place by the lobster traps and the bow by the anchor😩 It was a challenge to free it and the water was COLD (16c)!! After about 20 minutes in the water we got it cut free and dislodged the buoy from the prop, whew!

    A cautionary tale for others they may try this: I had tied a leatherman tool to my left wrist on about three feet of line so I wouldn’t lose it while working on the prop. On one of my dives I made some cuts and then had to go up for air. As I did, the tool got caught in the prop. Between my arm length and the line I was able to get my head up to one side of the boat, grab a breath and free the tool. I had been counting on the weight of the tool to keep it too low to get tangled, but it didn’t work that way!

    We got back underway and made it to North East Harbor without further incident but kept sharp eyes out for those darn traps!    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Selamat, 66 ketch
    Approaching Bar HarborA Bar Harbor 4 masted schooner that we saw this afternoon.Otter Cliffs, where we had gone rock climbing several years ago. Part of Acadia Natl Pk.

    Bar Harbor

    August 24, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Yesterday, on our way to Northeast Harbor, we passed a beautiful sailboat, Selamat, under full sail (3 sails), in a place where the wind had died (we were motoring). They had apparently passed us earlier, when David was diving to fix the prop. (The captain asked David how the water had been.) Later, Selamat (still only under sail) caught up to us, and passed us, easily (we were motoring 6 knots and she must have been going 10-12, at least). She was a vision of beauty and speed, and we were mesmerized. I wish I had taken a picture, but at the time I was concerned about navigating the channel we were in. But this morning, as we left NE Harbor, I caught the picture below as we were both exiting the Harbor. The captain said to David, “Hey! It’s Aquaman!!”

    Later I found out that Selamat is one of the fastest racing boats in its class, having won the 2018 Newport-Bermuda race. It was enchanting to watch her go by. Unforgettable.    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Colin and Hannah M.And this tree is wearing a fall sweater in the caterpillar pattern.

    Heading to Mistake Island area

    August 26, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We will be along the Down East coast for the next 2-3 days, without much service. We expect to get to Canada by Wednesday or Thursday, and hopefully can post then.

    Yesterday we had the pleasure of the McCardles visit, so I am posting pictures Chris sent. It’s so nice to see friends along the way. A bit of home.Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Fishing for herring
    Pink granitePlant. Crowberry?BluebellsOld seine net left across an inlet.Sea Fever. Green spots are probably water splashes.

    Mistake Island Harbor

    August 26, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We arrived here today around 5:00. We had a great breeze of 10 kn the whole way, so we were able to motor-sail at about 6-7 knots. (Motor-sail means we kept the motor on but also used the sails, which boost the speed and/or help the gas mileage.)

    We rowed to the island and hiked a bit, trying to add to our collection of backgammon stones.

    There is a beautiful pink granite here, as well as some rare flowers that grow only here, which we don’t know if we saw or not(!) We did see a pretty bluebell flower and something that might have been crowberry.

    While sailing today, it struck me that for the first time, we did not pass a single boat after we left the bay of Bar Harbor— for 5 hours. That is the first time it has happened. David was below, so it was just me on deck. It made me think of the fisherman’s prayer: “Lord, thy sea is so great, and my boat is so small.”

    There are a few other boats moored in this little cove, and we have already been talking to one of them!    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts

    Todays Swim: 14.9c!!!

    August 27, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    I even convinced Lisa to try the water today, though she only got half in it was still a victory 😂 She asked if it stings the same when I go in😏

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    Cross Island, this morning.
    A warning mark that apparently got run into.Leaving thru Cross Isl. Narrows this a.m.Passed by Old Man Isl hoping to see razorbills, but no luck.This peninsula is behind Cross I, and is site of US submarine communications.

    Cross Island

    August 28, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Heard loons this morning. A very peaceful strait, with a beach that had the most unusual mix of rocks that we have ever seen. Yesterday after arriving we hiked a bit on the island. It’s pretty and forested but you have to bushwhack your own path.

    While hiking we could hear the noise from the submarine communications towers across the way. When we returned to the boat, we were behind Mink Island, and it blocked the noise.

    David went swimming in 13.1 degrees C (55 F).    Read more

  • Maine and Canadian coasts
    1Approaching Grand Manan
    Swallowtail Light, North Head, Grand MananNorth side of Grand MananView of harbor from landColor-coordinated lobster buoys2Old Post Office, now Post Office Pizza

    Grand Manan, Canada

    August 28, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We made it to Canada! 🇨🇦

    I remember Noel saying, about sailing the Canadian coast, everything was big— big currents, big tides, big swells. She was absolutely right.

    The morning started out calm, with no wind. We were riding the high tide current so we were making great speed—7-8 knots just with the motor. Around noon the wind picked up, so we put sails up while the wind (out of the SW) was 10-12 kts and still building. We were making 8 knots by sails and current alone! It rapidly built to 18-23 knots. We reefed both the mainsail and jib. At the north end of Grand Manan, there is a place where two very strong currents come together and crash into each other. It was very strange— we could see the water ahead looking like it was waves hitting a beach, but we knew there was plenty of depth. It was very noisy, too, like being on a beach during a big storm. We made it through the stretch, about 50 yards across, without any problem (but I did stand right next to David while we went through it!). Eventually, we had to round the north head of Grand Manan, losing the favorable wind direction, and needed to go into the harbor, so we dropped the sails and motored in.

    We were told by Customs to find a mooring, then to call in. All the moorings except one were in very rough water. We took the one that was in calm water, tucked behind some docks. It clearly had not been used in a long time. There were about 10 lines tangled about it, all covered with seaweed that looked like bright green lettuce. I grabbed one of the lines (slimy seaweed, algae, and all) and made it fast, and we took the dinghy to shore to call into Customs. Afterwards we decided to move the boat to one of the outer moorings because it looked like we were too close to the breakwater and we just weren’t sure about the mooring. The pennants (lines to attach the mooring to the boat) on the next mooring were a new polyester, very thin and light, and not easy to slide onto a boat hook. It felt like I was trying to catch a tiny line in Gulliver’s ocean!!

    We decided that between the strong currents, big tides (20’, compared to Boston’s 10’), strong winds (still blowing), and tiny pennants, that it is hard work getting into Canada.

    Once the boat was settled, we went back to land to explore, but there isn’t much to see. It is a nice island community, with a drugstore and a few restaurants which seem to be closed when you want them. Their biggest export here is “dulse,” a seaweed that they dry and sell as a snack. I tried it. 😝

    As we lie here tonight, the winds are probably 25 knots, keeping us abeam to the waves. The boat is rolling quite a bit, and things are slip-sliding around. We are having to “batten down the hatches.” The temperature is surprisingly warm— maybe low 70s.

    Tomorrow morning we will leave for St. Andrews, in Passamaquoddy Bay.

    We have been told by guide books and other travelers that we would start seeing whales by now, but we have not seen a single one!! We did see some porpoises today while still in US waters, and about a dozen the day before. Passamaquoddy Bay is also supposed to be a good habitat for whales, so we will keep a lookout tomorrow.    Read more

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