• Sharon and Grant Macauley
Oct – Nov 2019

Africa

A 54-day adventure by Sharon and Grant Macauley Read more
  • Trip start
    October 1, 2019

    Driving North from Cape Town

    March 30, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Long drive today. Passed through various vegetation types, lots of golden wheat field on rolling hills, up and over a couple of mountain passes, millions of orange trees and hundreds of acres of vineyards. Light rain fell which would have been very welcome on the thirsty rolling hills. We stayed overnight at Okiep, a former copper mining town. The mine has been closed 50 years and they have a 75% unemployment rate but no crime in this town of 10,000 which is very impressive. We saw the old mine shaft built by the English as well as the cooling tower. It was the first operating copper mine in the world, built over 150 years ago. Grant and Tommy enjoyed a bottle of Stellenboch wine which they raved about.Read more

  • And we're off!

    October 1, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    After months of planning, we have our bags packed, house cleaned and garden fixed for fall. Ready for our African Adventure!

  • Cape Town, Day 1

    October 3, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We left our house at 4:45 AM, on Tuesday, we didn’t arrive in Cape Town at our hotel until 11 PM on Wednesday! We went through Toronto and Amsterdam...long, long trip. Today was sunny and warm, but not hot. We had a good breakfast that came with our hotel and then walked downtown and to the V and A (Victoria and Albert) Waterfront. We enjoyed all the new sights, lots of shops selling African goods, people and scenery. We were back at the hotel by 6 PM; it’s important not to be out and about after dark due to the crime caused by wandering young males, due to the high unemployment rate (over 20%) and drug use. South Africa has the second highest abuse against women in the world (rape and murder). We did not feel unsafe at any time though.Read more

  • Cape Town, Day 2

    October 4, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Another great day in Cape town! Yesterday we were really just getting oriented, but today we had a busy, interesting day. Sharon had trouble getting to sleep for hours last night (jet lag) but the half sleeping pill that Grant took did the trick and he slept like a log most of the night. First, we went and got the zipper on Grant’s backpack fixed since it broke on the trip over. Then we walked downtown through Company’s Garden, a kilometre strip of pedestrian road with garden, lawns, museums and government buildings on either side. We went to the South African Natural History and then to the Slave Lodge, which was the place that slaves were held, housed and from where they were sold like a piece of property. It was very informative and well done, giving us a great understanding of the extent of the injustices that people of colour endured. We then went to two free walking tours that were paid for by donation. Both were outstanding! One was on Apartheid, which was in South Africa from 1948 to 1994, a forced segregation of whites and other skin tones. There was so much information, stories and history, but also present day problems in Cape town and South Africa. The other walking tour was about other historical aspects of the city, but of course the racial issues and tensions continued to be a focal point which infiltrated all topics from poverty, employment, violence against women, education, emigration, politics, etc. It was a very interesting and educational day.Read more

  • Cape Town, Day 3

    October 5, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another full day! We planned on going up to Table Mountain since it was a beautiful, sunny, clear day without clouds or wind...HOWEVER...when we got half way up the mountain with our UBER driver, it became apparent that half of the tourists in Cape town had the same plan. So we abandoned that and got the driver to take us to the District Six Museum. This was the area of Cape Town that during apartheid was cleared of all Blacks and people of Colour, as they were forcibly moved to other areas of town that were only for their ‘race’. The history was told with many photos, stories and displays, and the lady who talked to us, told us of her own mother’s evacuation against her will which killed her two days later, of a broken heart. We then Ubered to the hospital where Christiaan Barnard performed the first heart transplant and heard the story in a private tour which was extremely interesting and well done. We then went to an Art Gallery which came highly recommended to us, and although the building where it was displayed was amazing, the art was hard for us to appreciate. We also went to a Diamond Museum, run by the Shimanski Company where we had a 45 minute private tour that taught us about diamond mining, history, grading and cutting which was very informative. There was a singing and dance group performing in the square which we also enjoyed. All in all a busy and interesting day!Read more

  • Cape town, Day 4

    October 6, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    After packing up, we moved to the hotel where our tour starts. We enjoyed walking around the waterfront in the afternoon and evening and met up with our group: David, our tour guide, Pietrus our driver and Tommy, the other guest who is from Boulder, Colorado. Our bus is very luxurious and has one seat that can recline on each side of the aisle with room for 11 guests and 1 guide. So with only 3 of us guests it is like a private tour. Each seat has a lockable storage container beside it with a plug for electronic devices. At the back there is a large refrigeration chest to store water and food. Luxury all the way!Read more

  • Driving North from Cape Town

    October 7, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It was a big driving day today from Cape Town to the north of the country. We passed golden wheat fields, millions of orange trees, mountain passes and it even rained a bit which would have been soaked up quickly by the thirsty soil. We stayed in Okiep, a town of 10,000. It had the world’s first copper mine, built by the British 150 years ago. The mine was then operated by Americans who closed it nearly 50 years ago and the result has been 75% unemployment rate but no crime which is very admirable. We had a tour of the remaining structures. The venting tower is in remarkable condition. Grant and Tommy enjoyed some excellent Stellenbausch wine. The bathroom floor was very slippery when wet and Grant slipped, so now his left knee was swollen and sore for a few days.Read more

  • Into Namibia

    October 8, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After driving for an hour, we crossed the clean, well maintained and efficient border into Namibia. The name means “vast and empty” which we certainly were going to find out over the next week the true definition of those words! Lots of driving again today but it was broken up by a canoe paddle down the Orange River. We saw lots of birds and gorgeous scenery and stopped at a city with very, very small reed huts. The adults work at the vineyards along the Orange River, Namibia on the near side of the river and on the far side it is South Africa. We gave the kids two soccer balls, coloured pens and balloons and they sang a couple of songs for us. We stayed at a beautiful lodge, with vehicle decorations of old cars, trucks, tractors and much attention to detail in in rooms as well. We drove out to Fish Canyon which is the second largest canyon in the world. The sunset and rock formations were beautiful, although Tommy didn’t come with us because he was sick. On the drive back to the Lodge we saw some Oryx and then Sharon saw one at the Lodge.Read more

  • Namibia

    October 9, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Sharon had a very rough night. It must have been the same flu that Tommy had; not much sleep and violently coming out both ends. Yuk! By morning she felt a tiny bit better and slept quite a bit on the bus. We got to our Lodge about 1:30 and did some laundry and relaxed for the rest of the day but really, there was nothing to do at this German run lodge and the food quality was somewhat lacking.Read more

  • Travel Day to Zebra Lodge

    October 10, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We saw a lot of Oryx today as we travelled about 3 hours today to Zebra Lodge which is in the middle of nowhere and I do mean nowhere. They have a 50 metre well with a pump run with solar energy and a watering hole that the wild animals frequent at night. Because we were leaving at 5am the next morning we didn’t stay up to see them though. Sharon felt much better today and was able to eat a small breakfast and dinner without repercussions! At 4pm we went on a 7km walk with a guide from the Lodge along the Ridge Trail where we learned how to identify zebra footprints, and zebra, oryx and fox scat. The accommodations all seem to have pools but the water is pretty chilly, no doubt from the cool desert nights. The Zebra Lodge is extremely beautiful with rock work and wood ceilings and art that is local, some made with porcupine quills. The meals are good and huge! It was a farm until the early 1990s and has such attention to detail in its reformation. There are extensive gardens, some flowering, lots of succulents and friendly staff, who seem to work 6 weeks on and 2 weeks off when they are able to travel the 2 hour drive home to their families.Read more

  • Early start to full day!

    October 11, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We got a 5am start and had lots of driving today! We had over two hours until our first stop, and the Lodge packed us an excellent, large breakfast, so we ate it a bit at a time over the next 7 hours. We had 3 main activities today. In Sossusvlei in the Namib Dessert, we saw the highest dunes in the world, and the only red ones, possibly the most famous. The first activity was to climb Dune 45, which is the most photographed sand dune in the world, composed of red sand, from the iron oxide in it, in a star formation. It has been quite windy in the area lately, and this morning it was blowing hard, but not too hard for people to climb the dune. Still, we climbed into the wind, with sand whipping at our bodies. It was quite gruelling and Sharon reached the top, however Grant opted not to do it because of his spongy knee from the fall he had on the slippery floor a few days ago. The second activity was made in a transport vehicle in the dunes to a 1 km walk into Deadvier, which is an ancient salt flat, with petrified trees that are still standing. The 3rd activity of the day was to Sesriem Canyon, a very interesting canyon, although not deep by world standards, is made up of sedimentary and conglomerate layers of rocks. It was another two hours drive back to the Zebra Lodge on the gravel roads, some parts which rattled the poor bus so badly it shook like crazy on the dry washboard. In late afternoon Grant started to feel sick, the same thing Sharon had a few days ago so he didn’t eat dinner and went to bed.Read more

  • Travel day

    October 12, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    It was a pretty low key day with lots of driving. The scenery varied with various shades of gray, brown and black desert with a bit of scrub vegetation, the occasional areas with scrub trees and lots of areas with nothing at all. We are still driving on gravel roads which are sometimes bumpy and sometimes very bumpy! We both had audio books from the library which enable us to watch out the windows as we drive. Grant felt better but tired today and ate some dinner and was asleep by 8pm. We stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn, a bakery and the Badlands before arriving at the city of Swakopmund on the Atlantic Ocean where we saw lots of flamingos. We went for a walk from the hotel down to the ocean after dinner. Today we saw our first zebras at a distance, a vulture and a group of baboons.Read more

  • Swakopmund, Namibia

    October 13, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We had the full day to ourselves here and it’s also the first hotel in Africa that we have had wifi in our room. Usually it’s only available in the lobby and sometimes poor even there. We picked a 2 1/2 hour quad riding experience about flora and fauna in the desert which is only 5 minutes from our hotel. At first very slow, nervous and scared, Sharon was soon feeling confident and comfortable riding around the dunes. We saw an average sized shovel-nosed lizard and a few small ones. The guide caught it and Sharon held it, such a beautiful little thing. We also saw the tracks of a sidewinder snake and then finally saw one. They slither quickly across the sand and are venomous so we didn’t get too close but our guide was able to get some great photos for us with our camera, showing he had lots of experience. There were two Macau’s at the activity venue which Sharon interacted with. We just walked around town, down to the ocean, and relaxed our room the rest of the day.Read more

  • THIS is what we LOVE about Africa!

    October 14, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We drove to Etosha National Park and went on a 5 hour game drive. We saw an unbelievable amount of animals and had a fantastic time! The best was the giraffe which was on the side of the road and we got to sit and watch it for 20 minutes. So fantastic! We also saw lots of ostriches, springbok, elephants and zebras. On our way back to the gates which closed at 7pm, we saw 3 rhinos who were having a mud bath in a puddle right beside the road. Love it!Read more

  • Outjo and Himba Village

    October 15, 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After a 4 hour drive we checked into our Lodge and went to the Himba Village. This group is a Native Namibian tribe that was relocated from the north part of the country 3 years ago because of the severe drought. The women market their bracelets and hand made crafts for inflated prices at markets and on the roadsides. The women have their hair extended with a waxy substance and they cover their bodies with a red ochre powder and bare their large breasts without embarrassment. We had a one hour cultural tour where we saw how they live and were able to interact with them though they don’t know English. The men can wash with water but the women get “clean” by letting smoke from embers rise onto various parts of their bodies. Sharon brought a bead bracelet from each of the 7 women. We saw the small schoolroom that had about 30 children, ages 2-6. After dinner the young workers at our Lodge sang and danced for us with beautiful voices and harmony.Read more

  • Etosha National Park

    October 16, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We did two game drives today for a total 9 1/2 hours. Literally thousands of Springboks were sighted, from solitary to herds of over 50. Zebras are plentiful and are often found in close proximity to Blue Wildebeests. Giraffe are also exciting and easy to spot. Some hyenas, honey badgers, guinea fowl and a 5 banded mongoose were uncommon sightings. Some birds that we saw were the Korean, a young raptor, some Chanting Goshawks, a Martial Eagle (rare) and a Tawny Eagle. A small number of Kudu, Red Hartbeests, and Black-faced Impala were also viewed. However, the best morning sighting was a Lioness with 3 adorable cubs bouncing along behind her, maybe only two weeks old. It was fabulous and we were in awe. All these sightings were only in the morning!!! We spent 2 1/2 hours at the Lodge and pool and then went out for the afternoon. We didn’t see any new animals and went long periods without seeing any animals but then we saw two lionesses and a young lion very close by. We watched them for half an hour and then had to drive back to the Lodge because the gate closes at 7pm. What a fantastic day!Read more

  • Travel day

    October 17, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Not much news today because it was mainly a travel day. We stopped at a market but its not fun because all the vendors are desperate to sell things so they hound any prospective buyers. We stayed the night in Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia where we met up with a young Brazilian couple who will complete the last week of this tour with us.Read more

  • Bushmen (and women)

    October 18, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Today we travelled for four hours and arrived at a small camp about a mile and a half off the highway. We saw lots of farmlands once we got off the highway with acres of small green onions, irrigation and cattle. The camp had cabins with a door out the back of each one of them to an outside bathroom complete with shower, toilet and sink and ours had two trees growing in it as well! There was camping available and small grass huts that people could rent. In the late afternoon we had a guide who took us out into the property where some people who are descendants of the bushman showed us some of the natural medicines, soaps, etc. including how to brush your teeth with a stick which turned their tongues orange, supposedly attractive and sexy! They lit a fire with dry grass by rubbing sticks together. After dinner we paid to watch them dance, chant and clap; the women mainly sang and clapped and the two young men danced, but all dances were quite similar.Read more

  • Okavango Delta

    October 19, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    We had a long drive today, and it was SO HOT on the bus; the air conditioning that they advertised that we would have, is pretty much non-existent.. Finally we arrived in Maun, and went on a 45 minute flight over the Okavango Delta. We saw so many animals: a huge herd of Buffalo crossing some water, and we saw so many Elephants, Hippos, Springbok and even some giraffes. Unfortunately it was very hot in the 5-seater plane, and that coupled with the slight air movement and motion of the small plane made us all feel a bit queasy by the end of the flight.Read more

  • Okavango Delta tour

    October 20, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 38 °C

    Today we were picked up at 8am, and after a 75 minute drive in an open safari vehicle, we arrived at the water of the Okavango Delta. We went out in pairs in a Mokoro, a traditional wooden canoe type of boat that has little freeboard, and is able to navigate the shallow waterways of the delta. Our ‘poler’ was a woman who had 5 children, and no husband, a shy woman who didn’t seem to have much confidence which showed as her lack of eye contact, and looking down at the ground and few smiles. The poler stands at the back of the mokoro and uses a pole to push us through the shallow channels of the thick reeds. We saw elephants, giraffes and hippos and we enjoyed watching them from the mokora and also when we were on the two kilometre walk we did. It was so HOT though, probably mid-90s. We sat in the trees in the shade and ate a lunch that they provided which was HUGE. We were able to share it with our polers, who appreciated it. Sharon bought a woven basket from the selection of woven crafts that were shown to us. Although she paid much more than the bowl was worth, it was wonderful to see the smile on our poler’s face as she had apparently made the bowl. On our drive back we witnessed a violent fight between some muscular, angry young men and got back to our Lodge by 3:30 where we enjoyed some wine and dip in the pool.Read more

  • Elephants Sands

    October 21, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 38 °C

    After a long, boring, hot drive, we arrived at Elephant Sands Lodge. Its 2 km off the highway, and has permanent tents and cabins. The restaurant, bar and lodge area was set up to view elephants by putting a watering trough about 15 m. away from the viewing area. A barrier of low sharp rocks and spikes protect the tourists. We watched them for 3 hours before dinner and another hour after dinner. There were 20-30 elephants and they were constantly moving around, jockeying for position. Occasionally there would be snorting and trumpeting. A mother and baby that was perhaps less than a year old came to the watering hole and after about 10 minutes the other elephants allowed the baby to get into the centre for a big long drink, apparently it may have been still learning to use its trunk to drink with. During the night, we were woken up by elephants walking right beside our tent (like a soft sided house on a raised platform) and so we watched them for half an hour and then got up at 5:30am and watched them again, as well as the gorgeous sunrise. Its a one-of-a-kind place to stay!Read more

  • Kasane, Botswana and Boat Ride

    October 22, 2019 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 39 °C

    We drove to Kasane and settled in our Lodge before going on a sunset cruise on the Chobe River for 2 1/2 hours. Unfortunately we had a very small aluminum boat with 14 people in it so were unable to move about, which was uncomfortable and less desirable for taking photos.Read more

  • Zimbabwe

    October 23, 2019 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    We were up early and paid $49 each to go on a 3 hour game drive to Chobe National Park. We saw so many animals despite the area having so many vehicles. We drove down along the Chobe River and saw one male lion and fairly near were a lion and lioness lying together, the guide said that they might be mating. We also saw them lying in the shade 20 meters off the road late in the trip. Other sightings included antelope, hippos (in and out of the water), lots of baboons, many with young they were carrying on their backs or the young clinging to the other’s belly. We saw a herd of elephants right in front of the truck, including a mother and 2 week old baby. Also sighted were lots of birds, Giraffes, Kudus, small Crocodiles, a group of Banded Mongoose. The big sighting was a Lion sleeping in some shade; we were only 10 feet away from him, so we were glad that he didn’t wake up! Then we drove across the border to Zimbabwe and stayed in a beautiful Lodge for the last night of this part of our trip. For dinner and the evening we went to the Boma, a fancy dinner and evening entertainment establishment that had singing, drumming and dancing after dinner, African style. It was a lot of fun! I put a photo of that on tomorrow’s post.Read more

  • Goodbye, visit to Zambia

    October 24, 2019 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 39 °C

    We had breakfast with our tour group and then said our goodbyes. We decided not to go to Victoria Falls because we saw them eight years ago when we were here, and there is not very much water in the river going over the falls right now because of the drought. Instead, we decided to have an adventure and walk from our lodge down to the bridge that crosses the Zambezi river canyon, and across to Zambia. It was about a mile over and a mile back with four stops at immigration, two for each country. There were lots of locals hounding us to buy their products; we bought a couple of small wooden carvings and some old Zimbabwe currency. It was probably 40°C and extremely hot but it was a bit of an adventure, and we were glad we did. We came back to Victoria Falls town and did a little bit more shopping and looking in the stores and then came back to the lodge for a swim in the pool and dinner at a brewpub only a block away.Read more

  • Flight to Johannesberg

    October 25, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We were out to the airport earlier than necessary, as we had arranged transport and that is when they said that they would pick us up. Then the plane was an hour late leaving, so we did spend a lot of time in the Victoria Falls airport, which is quite new but poor wifi. We stayed near the Johannesberg airport, which was quite remote, and had dinner there.Read more