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Camino de Santiago - May 2025
  • ShaunLC
  • ShaunLC

Camino de Santiago - May 2025

Shaun's long long walk across Spain along the Camino Frances, from St Jean Pied du Port in France, to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 35 days of walking, with a few rest days, over a distance of about 800km. En savoir plus
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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Goodbye Boadilla del Camino. This Rollo de Justica was outside my room, signifying independence.
    More rapeseedCanal de Castilla, originally for transport grains to port, now pilgrims use the tow paths.1One of the Canal de Castille locks1Apparently 424km to Santiago. The 4,478km to Jerusalem is not on the cards.On the Meseta the storks have all the high pointsFlat earth1Even the puddles are showing the Way1400km done! Go me.Clouds over the waving wheat.Clouds over the waving wheat.Santa Maria La Blanca1Santa Maria La BlancaSanta Maria La Blanca2My new mateMy welcome into Carrión de Los Condes

    Day 17 - Flat earth

    15 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Boadilla del Camino to Carrión de los Condes
    26.3km
    Accumulated distance 414.7km
    Last nights communal dinner was great, lentil soup, chicken, ice cream, and red wine.
    This morning, after the usual bread, jam, coffee, orange juice breakfast I head off at 8 into a drizzly morning.
    Today was characterised by flat terrain, the paths were easy going, and apart from small undulations there was not a hill in sight. Flat earth country for sure.
    It was on and off drizzle for a few hours, and even spent an hour or so walking alongside a canal up to the lock at Fromista.
    Despite the easy walking, my blisters were really bad today, but it was all worthwhile getting to Revenga de Compos where I’d calculated my 400km mark. The official 400km is still a couple of days away, it shows how much extra walking I’ve been doing.
    More stunning scenery and waving wheat fields, then a lunch stop at Villalcázar de Sirga, where I also had a look at the Church of Santa Maria La Blanca. We were even treated to a procession from the church.
    After lunch the last stretch was spent speaking to Roz from Melbourne who had fallen behind husband John and friends Martin and Sue who I’d met some days ago. Fortunately the conversation was good and the last 6km flew by to the relief of my feet.
    I nice 2 star hotel tonight complete with kitchen, so a home cooked meal for a change.
    Moment of the day was achieving the 400km milestone, despite the blister pain it felt good!    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The Way out of Carrion de Los Condes
    View over the Puente Mayor2My walking buddy hasn't abandoned me yet, except he doesn't have blistersAmazing wildflowersAmazing wildflowersAmazing wildflowers1400km to go! Apparently.Amazing wildflowersA cross? An angel? A puddle?Shade is a scarce commodity on the Meseta380km to go... Apparently. But I was relieved to arrive in Ledigos.

    Day 18 - Teasing the half way

    16 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos
    23.3km
    Accumulated distance 438.0km
    Had a good breakfast bought from the supermarcedo last night and made lunch with dinner leftovers, then on the road around 8.30 as today wasn’t an overly long day.
    After a few days now of average weather, today was out of the box perfect - blue skies and around 9deg, perfect walking.
    As with yesterday, Meseta walking is flat, I was hoping my blisters would cooperate. Very early on I got chatting with Dawn from Victoria Canada as we were walking at about the same pace in the bunch of morning pilgrims. A very pleasant chat about nothing and everything, until a morning coffee at a roadside container cafe. Was introduced to her friends Jan from Alberta Canada, and Michael and Annette from Indiana.
    The weather warmed up quite a bit, not in temperature but under the sun it was getting hot. I can’t imagine walking in 30+ and 40+ temps in Summer!
    Interestingly, part of today’s route is actually on an old Roman road with an original route marker (which I missed), the Via Aquitana.
    The views were over the Meseta were spectacular once again, and we got excited to see the 400km remaining bollard, which also indicates 400km complete. I wonder how accurate the measurements are, my GPS had the 400km travelled yesterday. Also, about 10km further on was a sign saying 380km to Santiago and 380km to Roncesvalles. Who knows. Today is also my 18th day on the trail, so also half way in time.
    I was very pleased to arrive at my digs in Ledigos, another painful day for my feet and blisters. There must be a Guinness record for the longest distance walked with blisters and I reckon I’m challenging it, I reckon close to 350km on blisters now, A nice beer bumping into Roy and Nora again.
    Moment of the day was the surprise of seeing the 400km sign, accurate or not it means that I’m pretty close to the metaphorical “downhill”.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    1A lot more references coming through about the Knights Templar
    We're still moving forward. We agreed to go easy on the blisters today.2My walking buddy for the morning, Te Aroha from Kawakawa, getting a wax stamp in the passport.More peaceful vistasIn the breadbasket of Spain the agricultural sector is busyRight next to the road into Sahagún, but a nice pleasant borderMedieval bridge crossing to hermitage of the Virgen del Puente1The official half way point, at San BernardoAt San BernardoAt San BernardoThe street murals of SahagúnIs that me?!This mural captured the culture wellThe Arco de San Benito, complete with stork nest and chicks (right of the peak)More storks and chicksSantuario de la Peregrina, where I got my half way certificate1The Codex Calixtinus, the 4th volume of which laid out the pilgrimage route which is still followedThe chapel of the Santuario de la Peregrina

    Day 19 - 🎶 I will walk 500 miles 🎶

    17 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Ledigos to Sahagún
    17.2km
    Accumulated distance 455.2km
    Today was going to be a red letter day, I was hitting half way at Sahagún. After the false hope of yesterday I was pretty excited. As the song says, “I will walk 500 miles”, now that I’ve got to half way I’m starting to feel like it might just happen,
    It was a perfect day, chilly at first with blue skies and no wind. I decided to treat myself, go slow, look for flat walking surfaces, and be kind to my blisters.
    I met Te Aroha a short way into the walk, she was going slow and I was the first kiwi she’d met so we decided to stick together, after she gave me a great big hug. She was recovering from a stent so her pace suited me perfectly.
    We had a coffee stop at a bar where a guy was giving out hot wax stamps for donations, awesome.
    Te Aroha didn’t last too much longer and took early lunch, I pushed on, the path and going was good. I even walked on the roads to ease the pressure on my feet, which I think was a good move.
    Just before Sahagún I bumped into Judy from Wellington, 2 kiwis on the same day, how good, and she even has family in Cambridge.
    We shared the momentous half way point together and swapped photos, then the last few km into town.
    After settling into my accommodation a quick whip around town and then down to the Santuario de la Peregrina to get my half way certificate and a look through the monastery, where I even saw the original Codex Calixtinus which set out the original pilgrimage route to Santiago in the 1100s.
    The moment of the day was hitting half way, and metaphorically everything is downhill from here, as long as the body hold out.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    More murals in Sahagún
    More murals in SahagúnThe Way out of SahagúnThe Puente Canto exiting SahagúnRoute markers in the Meseta are more elaborate than those beforeThe ornamental arch approaching Bercianos del Real CaminoA decent late breakfast/early lunch.In the Meseta there must be a scarcity of building stone, lots more mud and bricks now1Chorus of frogs1The way to walk in the sunA change from green fields, freshly plowed and ready for plantingHot skies overhead

    Day 20 - Straight as an arrow

    18 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌩️ 12 °C

    Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
    18.2km
    Accumulated distance 473.4km
    It was almost a shame to leave my accommodation in Sahagún, listed as a 2 star hotel it was the whole ground floor of an apartment, lounge, kitchen, 2 bathrooms, 3 bedrooms, and all for me.
    Once again another stunner of a day in the Meseta, and walking out of town on a Sunday morning felt strange with not a local in sight, and only the occasional click-clack of pilgrim walking poles on the concrete.
    Today’s walking felt arrow straight, no need for many turns or bends in the road when it is so flat. The walking path generally ran parallel to the road all day, fortunately a very quiet road which was nice, so I did walk quite a few km on the sealed surface to go easy on the blisters.
    No one to chat with today until my late breakfast/early lunch as I’d missed out in the morning. Stopped in a really small place with not much happening apart from pilgrims, and shared a table with brother and sister Bill and Kate from Georgia USA.
    It was getting hot around the middle of the day, and despite only being mid to high 20s the sun is hot and shade is not always available. Time to break out the umbrella, it was great walking without a hat but in the shade with the occasional breeze.
    Arrived at my truck stop hotel and settled in. All good apart from no hot water, but I wasn’t complaining. A blister popping ceremony ensued and my feet felt better for it.
    Moment of the day was walking out of a tiny ghost town and being drowned in the noise of frogs in the lake, it was worth a chuckle.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The church storks of El Burgo Ranero.
    2I know what I'm doing with my boots when I get homeStorm clouds brewing in the distancePoppies searching the sun's warmthIn Mansilla de las MulasThe Puerta de Santiago in the old walls of Mansilla de las MulasThe statue of St James (Santiago)The plaza del Pozo, with the ubiquitous pruned Sycamore treesOutside the city wallsIn siesta time there is nobody aboutI took this at 5pm, which isn't on the clock face. Maybe it doesn't matter in siesta?

    Day 21 - Nearing the end of the Meseta

    19 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
    20.4km
    Accumulated distance 493.8km
    Last nights accommodation was described as “light on hospitality”, which is probably apt for a motel built at a truck stop. But it was ok and did the job, the food was wasn’t gourmet, the shower was cold, and my door didn’t have a handle, but I wasn’t doing the Camino for the luxuries.
    The weather forecast was good with a low chance of rain around midday, so my second last day of the Meseta held some risk.
    Setting off it was chilly, but blue skies with distant clouds gathering.
    I chose again to walk most of the day on the road surface, another “be kind to blisters” day.
    After an hour or so I bumped into Alberta Jan and we had a non-stop talkfest until morning coffee around 11am. There we bumped into Wellington Judy again, plus some other new faces, so a lively chatty break.
    The km had been flying by on the straight flat roads, and after parting at morning coffee the rain came down for a short while before letting up and allowing the last 6km to get eaten up.
    It was a funny old day, I’ve been expecting to see the iconic Meseta view of a windy path descending into a pretty village surrounded by fields, but so far nothing to be seen.
    I arrived in Mansilla de Las Mulas quite early, so checked in and lunched on nuts and olives. My accommodation isn’t the greatest, but it will do.
    Moment of the day was finally, after almost 500km, I have seen cows grazing in the fields. Up til now it seems like we have been eating ghost cows, none to be seen anywhere.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    A beautiful day, a flat track, and the end of stage 2 ahead
    A break after an hour, a little memorial in a souvenir shopThe Puente Sobre over the Rio Porma, another example of bridges being pretty as well as functional2What a milestone! Now 500km walked!I'm getting to appreciate street art, some is really goodOnly the second herd of cows seem so farLeón ahead, lots of lion motifs and iconsNew railing next to the sidewalk, they take the Camino seriouslyOn the edge of the old town of León, helpers to welcome the pilgrimsMore lion motifsThe Puente Castro into LeónLion motifs1The old Roman city wallMore lion motifsThe Plaza del Grañón, one of León's oldest, once a grain market, with Santa Maria del Camino behindFirst look at the Plaza de San Marcelo, with Gaudi's building Casa Botines at the backThe Parque del Cid, most parks have artwork1My first view of the León cathedral, looking forward to visiting tomorrowLeón cathedral1Camino dinner - Marissa, Karen, Ash, Su, Kim, Te Aroha, Richard, ? , Elsa?, Ian, Jim

    Day 22 - Stage 2, done

    20 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Mansilla de las Mulas to León
    20.2km
    Accumulated distance 514km
    Today was one I was really looking forward to, I was to complete stage 2 and have a rest day.
    Remarkably my blisters were feeling better and I started off under perfect blue skies but blowing some steam in the chill.
    The e track looked good and I was making good progress at a moderate pace, until Fiona from country Victoria in Oz landed next to me and we spent the morning together, chatting away non stop.
    A milestone for me was about 6km in I reached my personal 500km mark, I still can’t quite believe it.
    I also saw only my second herd of cows today, where are all these ghost cows and pigs that we’re eating?
    A mostly unremarkable day otherwise.
    Got in nice and early to León, about noon, but too early for check in. Had a quick snack for lunch, collected my new boots, collected my bag from the accommodation HQ, and the room was ready. Wow! The best so far, basically a small apartment with kitchen, I’m glad I’m here 2 nights. Also had a washing machine so did a full load and hung out in the sun.
    Moment of the day was two moments, hitting the 500km milestone, and then entering León knowing 2 of the 3 stages are done and done well!    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The Casa Botines, an art nouveau building by Antonio Gaudi
    Me and my mate Antonio Gaudi1The medieval city walls, with a small section which dates back to the RomansTop of the city walls looking down from the San Isidoro museumAlphonso IX, the king who initiated the current cathedralSan Isidoro basilica"The" holy grailWhen in Spain one must keep up the energy levelsSan Fransisco gardens1Farmacia Merino, Dra. María José Alonso NúñezThe Calle Ancha is the main east-west street in the old city with lovely buildings1Quiet back streetsQuiet back streets approaching the cathedral1Cass and NoraLeón cathedral in the twilightCasa Botines in the twilight

    Day 22.0 - Exploring León

    20 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I had an enjoyable rest day in León. It is a really nice city, a decent size and similar to Hamilton back home with around 200,000 people in the area. But the old centre is packed with lovely parks, beautiful buildings, interesting alley ways, and restaurants everywhere. It only takes about 15min to walk from one side of town to another.
    I played tourist today and even rode the city tourist train, the diesel car with a couple of open carriages behind. It was pleasant.
    I visited Plaza Mayor, but closed with construction work.
    I went to the basilica is San Isidoro and then next door to the museum. They have “The” Holy Grail on display, if only Indiana Jones knew about it. I doubt it’s real, it was gifted about a 1000 years ago and parts of the cup date to Romans. No photos allowed.
    Took a wall round the old medieval city walls plus a view from the top. It’s interesting how people have infilled the walls with homes through the years. Also saw the ancient Roman city gate, the Castle Door Arch.
    Had a look from the outside at Gaudi’s building, the Casa Botines, but wasn’t interested to see the art inside.
    Paella for lunch, which was ok, but walked out to the Panderia La Masera Confiteria, an amazing pastry shop, which made a nice afternoon tea in the San Fransisco gardens, with leftovers for breakfast tomorrow.
    Popped into a 200 year old pharmacy to get some voltaren tablets, still has the original shelves and ceiling, very nice.
    Bumped into a few pilgrims and arranged to have dinner with Nora and Cass, I hadn’t seen either for quite a while. It was a very pleasant evening.
    So far so good with my new Merrel Moab boots, tomorrow is the big test.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Waiting for the cathedral to open
    2Western rose windowSouthern windows, apparently warmer in colour to receive all day sun to bathe the cathedral in light1Eastern windows receiving morning sun, with alter below and main chapelAltarAltar and eastern windows, panning through to the choirTomb of the bishop who oversaw the main constructionBehind the main altarScenes of the crucifixion behind the main altarThe choir and the organ, with over 4,000 tubesRepair work being carried out behind the choirSouthern roseThe northern entranceThe private chapelThe cloisters

    Day 22.0 - León cathedral

    21 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    What a pleasure to wake up on a rest day, no km to walk and no destination to achieve. Just an opportunity to enjoy the city and relax.
    León was a city I was really looking forward to, and especially the cathedral which is so highly revered.
    The full name is the Santa María de Regla de León Cathedral and dates back to the 13th century, a brilliant example of gothic architecture. It has one of the largest collections of medieval stained glass windows in the world. Apparently there is around 1,800 m2 of stained glass. And it is truly impressive.
    I enjoyed this cathedral more than Burgos, the layout more traditional, but still with the central choir and main chapel, with smaller chapels around the edges.
    The original site was the location of Roman baths, then a royal palace, and after a defeat of the Moors a cathedral was built, then later rebuilt, and finally the 3rd and current one started in the 1200s.
    Moment of the day was staring up at the stained glass, just Wow!    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur

    Day 22.0 - Stage 2 reflections

    21 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Ghost villages
    I am still intrigued by the lack of residents in the villages i pass through. No matter what time there’s just no one about. Where is everyone? Also, I’ve now passed two failed housing developments, apparently casualties of the 2008 crash. And they have been substantial in size too. So much for the housing shortage… Move to Spain, Theres heaps of space and choice 😉.

    Ghost cows
    It has taken me almost 500km to see my first cow herd. In NZ we take the herds for granted, but in Spain - which is obsessed with beautiful meat products - there is almost no sign of livestock. I do recall some feed barns, presumably for winter housing, but free range cows or pigs are absent. Ghost cows.

    Camino candy
    As the km rack up so do the aches and pains. I’ve spent a king’s ransom on bandages and remedies for blisters, but the Camino grapevine is all a-flutter about “Camino candy”. To the rest of us it is ibuprofen, but some folk take candy-size quantities. Other folk are taking more, they’re into the “Camino c0caine” (spelling). The pharmacists don’t even bother interrogating, they just hand over full strength stuff across the counter 😬.

    More milestones ticked off
    Another milestone reached just a day before León was my personal 500km walked, the km keep accumulating and it’s still barely believable.

    Conquering the Meseta
    For me a big goal was to conquer the Meseta, I had heard so many stories of the difficulty mentally and physically of getting through the high plains desert that I was a tad nervous. But the spring weather has provided pleasant walking temps (as long as you finish before mid afternoon), cool breezes, expansive green vistas, and arrow straight paths with reasonably good surfaces. It’s been better than anticipated, and I can now add “I walked through the Meseta” to my achievements. Go me.

    Stage 2 complete
    Which of course means I completed Stage 2 - The Mind. I think some people go deep within themselves during the Meseta, especially during the hot dry months. I didn’t have that experience. I had some solo km sections, but mostly I’ve been walking with other folk and we’ve talked the hind leg off a donkey. No introspection on this leg for me, maybe it means my mind is empty 😁.

    So onwards we go after a rest day in the beautiful city of León.

    Life is good.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The Way out of León
    The Way continues, walking in another man's shoes?I'm still getting used to some stuff here...They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But a hoisted rock with a rhino horn? I don't get it.The convent of San Marcos, now the 5 star Parador hotel1The e Perigrino monument overlooking the ParadorA spot of early morning fly fishing in León's Bernesga RiverMorning coffee break. I have worn through my pole tips.Keep walking that-a-wayAlmost into the 200s1Apartment living for storksNoisy walking next to the road, but good pathsElectric linesmen working next to a stork nestJust what the doctor orderedOut with the umbrella, thy e afternoon was heating up

    Day 23 - Free walking

    22 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    León to San Martin del Camino
    26.9km
    Accumulated distance 540.9km
    It was a bit of a shame leaving my studio apartment in León knowing I was going to an Alburgue in San Martin, a bit of a downgrade from my best stay yet.
    I’ve heard many people say the walk out of León isn’t great, some even choosing to bus to the city edge. I actually enjoyed it, the suburbs weren’t particularly smart but nice to see normal life for local people. It took about an hour to get to the edge of town, just enough to earn a coffee and change my pole tips which had worn through.
    The good news though, no blisters! My first day since 30 April, more than 450km ago, that I’ve been able to walk freely. And the new boots seem great, hear’s hoping things continue to improve. I had a choice of the “high” route or the “low” route today, I stuck with the shorter high route to go easy on the feet, even though it was mostly adjacent some busy roads. It was worth putting up with the traffic noise to play it safe.
    I had a nice morning chatting with Sophie from Edinburgh and her friend Julie (?) from England. I always enjoy the Scottish sense of humour. We parted ways after lunch.
    Some interesting happenings for the day included watching a couple of hawks courting each other above me while walking, and then seeing huge flocks of crows circling above and also feeding on the harvested corn fields. I’ve not seen a murder of crows before, there were hundreds of them.
    Because I’d chosen to walk slowly to look after my feet I only arrived in San Martin around 3.30pm which meant some walking in the heat, thanks Blunt umbrella you were great.
    Moment of the day was observing the crows, my first time seeing so many in one place.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Walking out of San Martin alongside a busy road
    1Some relief from the road noise was the wildflowers1Someone else with blister problems?1The 20-arch Puente de Orbigo over the river and flood plain, the longest bridge on the CaminoHospital de Orbigo even has its own jousting arena, to the left of the bridge1A lonely kittySaved by some pilgrims, to be dropped off at the next townOn a hot day a welcome coffee stop in Villares de OrbigoIt was great to be off the busy road, but climbing the hill in the heat was hard going.1Top of the hill was a reliefAt San Justo de la Vega, look at those km coming downWild lavenderThe Crucero de Santo Toribio mobbed by school kids on an outing, downhill to Astorga from hereThis pilgrim stuff is thirsty workEntry to Astorga, murals referencing Augustus1Antoni GaudiAsturica Augusta, the original Roman name of AstorgaAstorgans are proud of the fight they put up against Napoleon's siege of the cityRoman ruins in AstoriaRoman mosaics uncovered

    Day 24 - Hot on the trail

    23 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    San Martin del Camino to Astorga
    25.8km
    Accumulated distance 566.7km
    I was pleased to leave San Martin after breakfast, the accommodation was a bit shabby.
    Unfortunately more road adjacent walking for the first part of the morning, and although it started off chilly, the day heated up quite a bit under the Spanish sun.
    I left the main road just before the smart little town of Hotel de Orbigo, then treated to a view of the longest bridge on the Camino, together with the towns own jousting arena, how good. I also saw potatoes growing for the first time. Also could see some snow on the peaks of the hills we’ll be crossing in a few days.
    This led us into the country with two memorable moments. First was a lonely kitten which followed the group and looked so sad. The next was passing through a small village as school was coming out to go on an excursion, I managed to get heaps of high fives as we passed each other.
    Some puffing billy hill climbing in the heat until I got to a shady spot for a welcome picnic lunch, my ham cheese and coke was great. I was pleased that I popped into a shop earlier and bought some food, decent food stops were hard to come by once leaving the road.
    I enjoyed seeing all the kids at Crucero de Santo Toribio before the Astorga decent, they each had their own coloured paper Camino shells, obviously taught from a young age.
    My Alburgue is on the edge of town, so some exploring after I settle in.
    A moment of the day was the heartbreak meows of the little kitten looking for someone to adopt it.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The Episcopal Palace of Astorga
    The entrance to the palaceInside the buildingOne of the ground floor rooms as part of the Camino museumCamino museum artefactsCamino museum artefacts, a representation of SantiagoSantiago on a donkeyThe dungeon, with recovered Roman mosaics in the centreDungeonThe bishop's chapelThe bishop's chapelThe bishop's dining roomThe bishop's dining roomThe bishop's studyCatedral de Santa María de AstorgaEntrance stoneworkThe main altarThe main altarThe choirThe chapel of Saint James (Santiago) the pilgrim

    Day 24 - Astorga

    23 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Two visits for me in Astorga once I’d cleaned up, I wanted to see the cathedral and also the Gaudi bishop’s palace, the Episcopal Palace of Astorga.
    The bishops palace was commissioned early in the 20th century as Astorga is an important Catholic bishop seat. It was amazing, Gaudi really know how to use light to bring a building alive.
    The dungeon area was used to house uncovered ruins from Roman and medieval times. The ground floor is a Camino pilgrim museum with relevant statues, ornamentation, and history. The first floor was the bishops palace, which was truly impressive. The second floor seemed to be spare space. My favourite was the bishops palace. Not huge in size but hugely impressive is its simple and elegant design.
    Next was the Catedral de Santa María de Astorga. I don’t spend much time in the museum section, but the cathedral itself was very nice. Clearly Astorga was an important religious centre if gold ornamentation is a judge of importance.
    A moment of the day was entering the bishops chapel and marvelling at the simple elegance of the design and colours accentuated by the light, it was quite fantastic.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Early morning pilgrim
    1When in Astorga, chocolate and churros for breakfastErmita del Ecco Homo just outside AstorgaInside the hermitageInteresting sculpture on the trailMe and my shadow are still trucking on, approaching 250km to goMore interesting artThe crosses are all uniqueStorks up high, sparrows and other little birds also nest within the stork nest. Freeloading.More dilapidated housesThe cross of SantiagoA memorial. At this point the steep climb had started.Taking time from the climbing, pilgrims had made crosses on the fencePastoral viewsThe very pretty town of Rabanal, more structure to the construction than some in the MesetaViews over what looks like hebe out over to the hills. Still can't tell if there is snow or not.Vegetation changing as I climb

    Day 25 - Starting to head upwards

    24 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Astorga to Foncebadón
    27.2km
    Accumulated distance 593.9km
    The Alburgue last night was really nice with a good menu del dia for dinner. Check out was 8am and no breakfast so I decided on an early start and grab breakfast in town. Astorga has a strong link to chocolate, not sure why, so churro and chocolate for breakfast. Yum, power food.
    A pleasant walk out of town to first stop at the Ermita del Ecce Homo, a hermitage next to the road.
    Nice flat walking and I bumped into Jessica from Arizona who is met yesterday and we spent the morning together talking, which always makes the km fly by.
    It’s becoming clear that the villages and towns are improving as we get closer to the Galicia region.
    As we climbed the views became very nice over what looks like wild countryside. Eventually we started climbing, the path sometimes pretty rough with broken rock and stones, and made the going tough. After a few days of no blisters, the horrible conditions created another one on my right heel. Damn. Said goodbye to Jessica and had a break in Rabanal in the shade for my picnic lunch, then on my way up the climb.
    Got into Foncebadón at a reasonable time and checked into my good looking accommodation.
    Moment of the day was the climb up to Foncebadón, increasing fitness certainly helps, and the views on a hot dry day were lovely.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Sunrise over Ponferrada on the way to Cruz de Ferro
    Cruz de FerroYesterday and tomorrowSunriseThe start of the rock and rubble, but pretty spring bushThose views...The cows with their bellsYes!1Still one teamBlister country, but my new boots ate up the pathThose views...A very late breakfastWild lavenderThe outskirts of MolinasecaSpring is hayfever seasonEntry to MolinasecaGood spot for a picnic lunchLots of dry stone walls

    Day 26 - Cruz de Ferro

    25 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Foncebadón to Ponferrada
    28.6km
    Accumulated distance 622.5km
    Up early in my mountain hotel in Foncebadón and walked the half hour up the hill to Cruz de Ferro to see the sunrise. It was worth it, the sunrise was perfect with some wispy clouds and the Cruz wasn’t yet crowded with pilgrims.
    Summiting the highest point on the Camino at about 1500m was a big deal for me, another milestone achieved. The climb wasn’t as tough as the Pyrenees on days 1 and 2, so pleased to have reached this point without too much damage. The significance of the Cruz is to symbolically lay down one’s burdens in the form of a stone. I didn’t have many burdens to lay down so instead lay down 2 stones, one for all my yesterdays and one for all my tomorrows. The yesterdays represent me being grateful to all those people who’ve come through my life to contribute to me being me, especially close family and friends. I’m excited about the tomorrows with my family and friends, especially Rosanne, Matthew and Emily, and Christy and Declan, such exciting times ahead. But also parents and in-laws who mean so much to me.
    The second milestone was my personal 600km walked, I still am in a state of denial that my skinny legs have carried me this far, but the GPS says so, so it must be true. And on the blister front, Brown makes his presence known from time to time, but in generall pain free since León , which is just soooo good.
    The walk down from the Cruz was brutal, it must have been 10-15km of limestone rock and rubble, I was super grateful for my poles, but my toes took a hammering.
    There were also some really pretty villages and towns on the approach to Molinaseca, and the town itself was lovely, maybe the prettiest so far. I treated myself to a picnic sandwich on the river edge, even dipping my feet into the freezing water.
    It was a reasonable walk today at 28km so happy to get to Ponferrada and enjoy another lovely Spanish town, this time with a real Templar castle to explore. 28deg at 2pm was a bit hot though so I waited until about 4.30pm.
    The two moments of the day were spending time at the Cruz de Ferro, and reaching my personal 600km mark. A great day.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    The Ponferrada castle, home to the Knights Templar in the 1200s
    Outside the entranceThe ramp up to the entrance gatesView from the battlementsInside the keepView over the keepThe courtyardsWalking the battlementsView from one of the higher towersView over the cityThe keep from the courtyards3Top of the tower1Original Leonardo sketch of The Last SupperOriginal Leonardo sketch of The Last SupperOriginal prototype of a scene from The Last SupperOriginal prototype of a scene from The Last SupperOriginal prototype of a scene from The Last SupperHmm, I'm still getting used to some stuffBasílica Nuestra Señora de la EncinaAltar of Basílica Nuestra Señora de la EncinaTorre del Reloj, the clock tower gate to the old city

    Day 26 - Ponferrada

    25 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    The afternoon exploring the Ponferrada castle was interesting. It would have been better with improved signage around the castle, but enjoyable anyway.
    The unexpected highlight was stumbling on original artwork by Leonardo da Vinci, where he’d sketched out the concept for the Last Supper, and then prepared some image mockups of some of the characters in the final painting.
    Afterwards I popped into the Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Encina, the church built in the 1500s.
    The moment of the day was seeing the original Leonardo sketches and paintings.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Street art leaving Ponferrada
    Rio Sil with the Ponferrada castle aboveLapel pin given to me by a primary school girl after she interviewed meA new kind of way finderA tiny little SantiagoLots more subsistence farming on the outskirts of Ponferrada1Apparently only 200km to goBerries bought on the roadside for morning teaBack in wine countryFor big wine you need a big press!Fantastic vistas over the vineyards to the mountains behindFirst thing you see in Villafranca del Bierzo is the Iglesia de SantiagoThe Door of Forgiveness to Iglesia de Santiago, for pilgrims unable to complete their journeyRoute marker in Villafranca del BierzoThese mountain towns are lovelyRoute marker in Villafranca del Bierzo, at my hotelView from my hotel windowThe Colegiata de Santa María de ClunyThe Colegiata de Santa María de Cluny

    Day 27 - Last push before the mountain

    26 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
    26.2km
    Accumulated distance 648.7km
    Today was planned to be a relatively straight forward day, and don’t turned out. The weather started out with light cloud but that burned away to a hot day, 31deg at 5pm.
    The walk out of Ponferrada was similar to most towns, not particularly exciting, but noticeable with the raised living standards and quality of homes. One suburb in particular was very fancy indeed.
    A real surprise and a treat was being stopped by a primary school girl asking to interview me. What a little darling she was, quickly switching to conversational English and working through a questionnaire. I even got a lapel pin from her, what a highlight.
    It was also evident as we approached the countryside that more subsistence and market gardens were being tended, and also that the towns and villages had more people and life in them. Maybe the previous ghost towns were related to the level of affluence.
    We were also getting into wine country, with more and more expansive vineyards becoming prominent.
    The last part of the walk I teamed up with Jose from Cadiz, a very friendly Spanish guy who was very keen to talk.
    Arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo at about 2.30pm and the heat was already mid to upper 20s.
    Found my hotel, with a great view over the river, settled in and then explored the very neat town.
    Moment of the day was my interview with the primary school, it sure put a smile on my dial.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Climbing through the valley alongside the road, it's that Way
    Overlooking Villafranca del Bierzo on a chilly morning in the shade1Fortunately I stocked up recently on antihistamines, the spring allergies are hitting hardSantiago always has his back to the sun following the WayLovely stone built homes in the villages through the valleyThis dog did not want to venture into the deeper cold water, he just barked at the sticksDonkeys in the valleyChickens in the valley1A perfect picnic lunch stop alongside the streamThe bells never stopThe white marks are from hiking poles slipping on the roadA choice, right might be quicker, left will have more shade?It was too hot, left in the shade1Some people rent horses for the big climb. He's returning from delivering a group.One horse was trailing behindUp and up. It was more shade but steeper.Looking back over the valley

    Day 28 - The final big climb in the heat

    27 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Villafranca del Bierzo to La Laguna
    26.7km
    Accumulated distance 675.4km
    Up early because the room next door had a 5am alarm and the sound insulation in the hotel wasn’t great. I dozed a bit but up before 6, a picnic breakfast, then on the road.
    It was a chilly start, 8 degrees, but easy walking for most of the morning alongside the road through the valley. The road wasn’t busy, and for the whole morning the road followed the river so the sound of water was a constant companion.
    The villages continue to be cute stone buildings, but again lots of dilapidated and falling down old houses.
    I bumped into Fiona from country Victoria for coffee, the first familiar face since León.
    Picnic lunch alongside a lovely stream in Herrerias, just before the big climb started. I’d done 20km on gentle incline up the valley, another 6km to go but about 500m up. Boy it was hot, fortunately one of the routes had some shade through the woods, but coming out the other side was energy sapping and I had to refill water.
    Got into La Laguna to my hotel about 1/2 hr from the summit, the only accommodation in the village.
    Moment of the day was all the sounds, the cuckoo, the water, the cow bells, and the birdsong.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    1Sunrise over La Laguna and the surrounding hills
    1Passing from the region of Castille y León and into Galicia2A notable entrance into O Cebriero, a Galician bagpipe player harking back to the Celtic origins2My third peak of the Camino now summitedView from O Cebriero1The pretty stone buildings of O CebrieroThe Church of Santa María of O CebreiroInside the Church of Santa MaríaThe pilgrim prayer in the Church of Santa MaríaLovely walking out of O Cebriero through the woods2The Monument to the Pilgrim at the Alto San Roque, fighting the windMore pleasant walking with great views over the hills and valleys1I met up with two fellow kiwis, Kerry Limmer and Renee Ngaparu, from WhakataneIt was very hot, the shade was welcoming1Those viewsMy umbrella working hard in the heat1Galicia is definitely cow country, lots of bells in the hillsThe last big downhill to Triacastella1I hit my 700km walked outside my Pension door!

    Day 29 - A day to savour

    28 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    La Laguna to Triacastella
    25km
    Accumulated distance 700.4km
    I was looking forward to the day, I was going to summit the final of the 3 peaks along the Camino. La Laguna was only a half hour walk so enough time for a sunrise and breakfast then up the hill. What a welcome at the top, a Galician bagpipe player at the edge of the village was incredible. I decided to have a coffee and wait for the Church of Santa María of O Cebreiro to open at 9am and I’m glad I did. The little church was more simple than the larger churches and cathedrals, just a simple crucifix altar with light streaming through three small windows, plus a few separate smaller alters including one specifically for pilgrims. Quite a special little church. The village of O Cebriero itself was very quaint, a lovely little place.
    The walk afterwards was stunning, views over the green hills and valleys, some mist still settled in the lower places, lots of birdsong, and in general a really peaceful environment today. The first few hours was undulating paths in good condition for walking, with the occasional steep hill up or down.
    A real surprise was bumping into two kiwis I’d been following on the kiwis on Camino Facebook page, what a treat.
    A nice bocadillo for lunch, then the long steep downhill to Triacastella and my accommodation. Out came my umbrella for the heat, my sunbrella, which got a few positive comments. It was really hot in the mid afternoon, so having my own shade was great. The final stretch was in woodland again, so very pleasant, but overall my toes got quite squished on the long decline. Interestingly the path passed through a few villages, all working farms, and it felt like I was walking right through the farm, complete with smells.
    Getting in to the Pension Simon I realised that I’d also just ticked over the 700km walked, a day earlier than expected.
    The moment of the day was the time in O Cebriero, right from the bagpipe welcome through to the simple little church.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    1Pilgrim monument in Triacastela
    1Only 130km to go. On the side of this marker is Japanese writing, referencing the Kumanu Koda1Typical stone village, part falling down, part inhabitedPeaceful forest walking on good pathsSun burning off the morning dew in the pasturesEach village has a small church with cemeteryCow countryWalled path approaching SamosOverlooking the monasteryThe monastery and church1The Cypress chapelLocked out of the church and monasteryOverlooking the church and monasteryPilgrim showing the Way out of SamosMore forest walking, but the allergies!1Made it, 36degree heat1Marcella

    Day 30 - Last leg before the last 100

    29 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Triacastela to Sarria
    28.6km
    Accumulated distance 729.0km
    The host at the Pension prepared breakfast for me (an overpriced toastie in what was otherwise a great stay) and then on the road. First decision was at the end of the main street, left to Samos and Sarria (longer) or right to Sarria directly (shorter). There was a resounding “no brainer” comment behind me and they all turned right. I wanted to see Samos.
    It turned out ok, I had about 2 hrs of uninterrupted and quiet walking mostly downhill through tiny stone villages, pastures and cows, sometimes the combination made for stinky walking.
    A cup of coffee in Samos then a look around. Unfortunately the monastery and church were closed, just my luck. It is the oldest inhabited monastery in Spain, there have been monks here for over 1500 years. Of course it was closed today.
    A very pretty little town though.
    Onwards through the villages and pastures, still walking solo, and the temps going up and up. Fortunately a lot of the walking was through leafy forests so a bit of a reprieve. The sun-brella came out though and was great to be walking without a hat.
    I pushed through to Sarria without stopping because of the heat, stopping in town to get late lunch.
    I got to the accommodation at 3pm and it was 36deg. A stinker. The proprietor at the Pension was Marcella who loves the All Blacks and who she met once, including her hero Jona Lomu. She dashed through to her office to get her pounamu (jade) necklace and carved earrings, then dashed through again to get her AB training shirt (“I’ve never worn it before, it’s too special”). I felt honoured.
    The moment of the day was meeting Marcella and sharing All Blacks stories with her.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur

    Day 30 - Reflections at Sarria

    29 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Sarria
    I arrived in Sarria today with a scorching 36deg at 3pm. It’s an important staging post on the Camino at just over 100km from Santiago, this final stage is the minimum distance a pilgrim must walk to receive their compostela (certificate) in Santiago. So tomorrow the popular Camino starts as I expect lots more people on the trail. It’s great and I expect a lot of energy and excitement, but to be honest I’ve been enjoying the quiet peaceful days of walking.

    My sun-brella
    After some rain early on in the walk, it’s been pretty hot and dry for a while now. We have also had a heat wave come through Spain, so the umbrella has come out as a sun-brella. I’m pretty pleased too, it’s nice to walk in the shade with a bit of a breeze. Others think so too, I’ve had a few remarks 😉.

    Ghost km
    Checking my GPS km versus the expected km, I am doing more than the guidebook says. This excludes my tourist exploring without GPS. These ghost km accrue probably getting to and from the trail, or stopping for coffee and lunches. It will be interesting to see the final km tally.

    Incremental fitness improvements.
    Despite the nursing of the feet, I’m still quite surprised at my old body’s ability to keep going. The fitness improvements just creep up on you. I didn’t realise until walking with a Spanish guy much younger than me and who’d only been going a couple of days. When he said “I’d like to read this information sign” I understood the code, he needed a break. I saw him later that day and he could hardly walk, as we were chatting he slid lower and lower until he was lying down 😄.

    3 summits conquered.
    It was a big deal for me to be able to summit all three of the Camino high points, and I’m pretty pleased to say “DONE” to that objective. The first was the Pyrenees, then came the highest at Cruz de Ferro, and yesterday at O Cebriero. I guess it’s downhill from here 😊.

    Don’t count the chickens
    I shouldn’t be complacent though, I’ve heard of a few folk who have either had to bow out, or catch a bus to skip a few stages because of injuries. Tendinitis and stress fractures are not uncommon. I’m nursing my Achilles on my left foot (thanks voltaren) and a bony lump that’s emerged on the top of my right foot. Only 5 days to go 😬, c’mon old bones you can do it!

    And finally, the future in good hands.
    Exiting Ponferrada I was stopped by some primary school students and asked if I’d mind taking part in a Camino survey as part of a school exercise. I was interviewed by a young lass no older than 8 or 10 years, and what an inspiring little gem she was. She asked if I spoke Spanish, sorry No. No worries, she switched to conversational English and proceeded with the interview. She was the most engaging and inspiring little girl you can imagine. As Bruce Springsteen recently said, there’s some “crazy sh1t” in the world right now, but I was hugely inspired by this little Spanish gem, the future is in good hands. And while we’re about it, let’s leave it to the girls, they’re awesome 😉.

    Life is good.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Pilgrim breakfast at La Casona
    Walking out of Sarria in the cool of the morningLeigh, Andy, MazThe shade was a welcome respite todayAndy, Leigh, Maz and mePastures full of wild flowersSeen better days, and the ubiquitous stone walls of Galicia3Yes! 100km to go, the countdown is well and truly on, no more triple digit numbersMaking hay while the sun shinesStone walls, been around for everHiA well earned refreshment2Keeping on keeping on1The iconic entrance to Portomarín1The last climb3Waiting for a burger

    Day 31 - A scorcher and 4 days to go

    30 mai, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Sarria to Portomarín
    22.7km
    Accumulated distance 751.7km
    Marcella laid on a mighty communal breakfast at the alburgue, including pancakes with chocolate sauce, yum. On the road reasonably early to try stay ahead of the heat, wi the noticeably more pilgrims on the trail.
    Very soon bumped into Maz from New York (ex Zim) and Leigh from Sydney (ex Cape Town) who is met at breakfast. We spent the rest of the day together.
    It was a very pleasant day of walking, more than half in dappled shade out of the heat. A real surprise was bumping into Andy Ramage from England, he was a documentary maker and has spent his recent career trying to coach people out of alcohol, a really inspiring guy and thoroughly down to earth and decent. He has a new doco coming out soon which he showed us a clip of, it looks really interesting.
    The number of people on the trail was noticeable, and the newbies stood out a mile off. We laughed at the fact that we sounded like the old pros comparing ourselves to the new walkers.
    We pushed through without lunch but did have a very welcome beer stop about a half hour out from Portomarín.
    It was really hot again, about 32deg when I checked in, so a good shower was enjoyable. Popped out for a late lunch, a magnificent burger, and noted the temp was 37deg at 4pm. Eish this place gets hot.
    No dinner but a stroll around at 7pm when it cooled down and had a very nice surprise with a phone call from Christy and Declan.
    The moment of the day was meeting and spending the day with Maz and Leigh, as well as the couple of hours walking with Andy and hearing his fascination research and findings around alcohol use.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Farewell Portomarin
    Portomarin sits on a large dam from a flooded riverOld cheese factory......now abandonedUntil mid morning a low mist hung over the trailLovely forest walking in the mist, no more quiet walking with many more pilgrims1Birdsong, misty views, happy pilgrims1A big moment, 85km to go, previously the furthest I'd ever walkedLonely villages, still working but some old buildings looking sadFinally, some pigsOn top of today's big climb, the mist is burning off1The Camino ant trail of pilgrimsMuch hotter around middayThe shade is always goodPolpo for dinner, soo good!

    Day 32 - A misty start, 3 days to go

    31 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Portomarin to Palas de Rei
    26.1km
    Accumulated distance 777.8km
    A misty start to the day, but more heat was to come later. Initially I quite enjoyed the cooler conditions but humidity in the mid 80s meant it was sweaty work. Somehow it seemed like more pilgrims on the trail today compared with yesterday, and luckily the first section today was a long long uphill so I managed to pass heaps on the way up.
    There were a few forest sections, my favourite in the misty weather, which was nice, and a long stretch to the first coffee stop. I bumped into the Canadian mother and son from day 1, still going strong. I also heard some people saying, and say too, about heat wash they’d been getting on the hot days. Not too many people talking about allergies, but I’m starting to feel it now.
    Bumped into Maz and Leigh from yesterday and we walked a while together, then finished off the day into Palas del Rei walking with Kyle from Florida USA, which was very pleasant. He’s on his second Camino.
    Got into town at 2pm approx, 26deg, so pleased to have beaten the heat. Planning an early start tomorrow, it’s almost 30 to Arzua.
    Moment of the day was going out to a small bar for dinner and ordering an outstanding polpo, it was so good.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Palas del Rei before sunrise
    Yip, something thatA couple walking from Sarria with their dog1He was very happy with his effort on his tiny legs1Best friendsThe little town of A Taberna, so typical of the stone villages in GaliciaDid I mention that I love the forest walkingOld stone walls, peaceful forests, early morning birdsongThe old stone bridge approaching Melide, where I bumped into Ian, Karen, MerissaThat's how to cook polpo at an industrial scaleIn Melida I bumped into Maz and Leigh (and friend) againAction shot, papa stork off to get food for the familyThe Roman bridge across the Iso River is a popular spot for foot therapy1It was cold but good1Merissa, Karen, Ian, me1My personal 800km walked!Proof that I did indeed walkMy shadow had some matesPizza dinner - me, Marissa, Karen, Richard, Ian

    Day 33 - A long haul, 2 days to go

    1 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Palas del Rei to Arzua
    30.4km
    Accumulated distance 808.2km
    I k ew a long day was ahead, so a breakfast in my room from the supermarket, then out the door at 6am. I was surprised to see so many others on the road so early, presumably they were thinking the same.
    It was clear that today was not going to be as hot as yesterday, there was overcast skies above and temps were nice and comfortable.
    Had a chat to Rosanne while walking then back into it. The oath was easy going although lots of today was like a dragons back, up then down, and repeat.
    It was a day when I bumped into lots of familiar faces.
    The first was Andy from the UK and we had about a half hour together chatting away.
    Next was walking past a cafe when I heard my name called out, it was Ian, Marissa and Karen. We ended up walking together for the rest of the day.
    In Malide I again heard my name called out from a restaurant and it was Maz and Leigh. Just a quick chat then back in the road to find a pharmacy for my allergies.
    Also bumped into Jacki and Laurie from the Waikato for a quick hello then back on the trail.
    I managed to catch Ian etc and we had a great day. A highlight was stopping at the Roman bridge to soak our feet, which coincided with my personal 800km walked.
    Into Arzua at around 2pm with much more tolerable temps thanks to the overcast weather, then a clean up before pizza dinner with the walking crew.
    A really enjoyable day made the km fly by. Only 2 days of walking now remain, about 42km.
    Moments of the day included bumping into such good people which felt good, as well as the foot soaking in the river, and my 800km milestone. Go me.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    Busy trails on the Sarria to Santiago section
    Into the eucalyptus forestsCorn planting seasonPerfect walking conditions1Where old walking shoes go to dieLess than 20km to go!Street art which extended all around a local school1The smell and sounds of the eucalyptus forest1The e walking gang for the day - Ian, Karen, Shaun, Merissa

    Day 34 - Almost finished, 1 day to go

    2 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Arzúa to O Amenal
    23.1km
    Accumulated distance 831.3km
    A good breakfast at the Arzua pension and then in the trail at 8am for the second last time. The weather was perfect for walking, and the going was good. The first 10km flew by, overtaking lots of the new walkers until my first coffee stop. Only about 10 min later I spotted the walking crew so decided on a second coffee. They had been joined by Oliana, a Ukrainian girl with a horror story. She was walking the Camino collecting sound bites from random people to stitch together into a Ukrainian poem. I made my acting debut and read out a line of her poem.
    The rest of the day was really easy walking, and most enjoyable walking through the eucalyptus plantation with the familiar smell and the birdsong.
    We arrived at my accommodation at about 2pm for a light lunch, then the crew carried on to their stop about an hour down the line. It was a thoroughly pleasant day today. We plan to meet up tomorrow in Santiago.
    The moment of the day was meeting Oliana, a lively and engaging young girl trying to raise awareness for Ukraine and the horrors of the Russian war. I was very happy to add my voice to her plight.    En savoir plus

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  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Voyageur
    On the outskirts of Santiago
    Early morning forests before sunriseWelcome! 7km to go.Me and my shadow still going strongAlmost at the squareGlimpses of the cathedralThe traditional welcome2I did it!I got in at 10am in the dotIan, Karen and Marissa coming in1Me, ?, Karen, Kim, Marissa, IanLee and Maz jumping for joy1Nora wa happy, watched by KyleThe streets of Santiago

    Day 35 - The final leg

    3 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    O Amenal to Santiago de Compostela
    17.8km
    Accumulated distance 849.1km
    I didn’t sleep too well, so up early and out the door for the last time at 6.30am for the approx 15km. The sun wasn’t up but light enough to walk, although the forests had a different feel with less light, but familiar birdsong was starting up. Surprisingly others were on the trail too, everyone keen to finish the final push.
    I didn’t see anyone I knew on the trail, so a quiet walk and good pace.
    A late breakfast with about 6km to go, and collected my last ever stamp in the passport so that I could claim my compostela.
    The last 5km or so were the outskirts of Santiago so not much to see and experience as I walked along the footpaths.
    The last stretch along the pedestrian street approaching the cathedral has a surreal feeling, then the Italian chap in front of me and I both took a wrong turn, had to backtrack and then the last few hundred metres into Obradoiro square.
    It was a funny experience, no excitement or emotion, we just arrived. There weren’t many pilgrims in yet, so a bit subdued, and with some construction work going on. Me and the Italian wished each other, had a hug, shared photos, then I waited for familiar faces. The clock stuck 10 which was nice. No bagpipes to welcome us either.
    I bumped into Claire and mum from Perth, we parted ways just after Alto Pedron. It was really nice to share the experience with her.
    At 10.30 the bagpipes started up, which was nice. Then Ian, Karen and Marissa came it, which was very exciting. We went and received our certificates and back to the square to wait.
    Then the others started. I spotted Kyle from Florida and caught up. Then Maz and Leigh arrived, very exciting and they were quite emotional, and had Richard from Byron Bay too.
    Out of the blue Nora arrived, she’d been in town a couple of days already. So good to have everyone together.
    A shower and freshen up, then out to lunch with Maz, Leigh and Richard for a great steak.
    Nothing happened for dinner, everyone fell asleep. I did pop out, saw Nora again, also Clair and mum, and saw Kelly and hubby (?) from US who’d I’d last seen before Burgos. I didn’t eat, back to the pension for an early night.
    What a day!
    Moment of the day was sitting in the square greeting the pilgrims, just fantastic! The energy and excitement just built up as the square filled up.    En savoir plus

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