• ShaunLC

Camino de Santiago - May 2025

Shaun's long long walk across Spain along the Camino Frances, from St Jean Pied du Port in France, to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 35 days of walking, with a few rest days, over a distance of about 800km. Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    26 de abril de 2025

    San Sebastian

    26 de abril, España ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    En route to the start of the Camino de Santiago was an overnight stop in San Sebastián after a 6 hr bus journey. It’s a foodie paradise and home of the pintxos, so a night out was required. Three stops in the manner of the tapas crawler - Casa Valles, Bar Txepetxa, and La Vina. Also took the opportunity to pop into a couple of churches.
    Moments of the day - a sad farewell in Madrid, but fantastic pintxos in San Sebastián.
    Leer más

  • Day 0 - Saint Jean Pied Du Port

    27 de abril, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    An early bus from San Sebastián to Bayonne to catch the connecting train, only for the train to be cancelled. A bus arrived, we all piled on without checking tickets, and made our way through pretty green scenery to Saint Jean Pied Du Port in the rain. Settled in to the Air BnB and explored the very cute town.
    Was lucky with almost no one collecting Pilgrim passports so was attended to quickly. I checked in with an 88 year old man on his 5th Camino!
    Hopefully the grim weather improves tomorrow.
    Moment of the day - sitting down in front of the very helpful French lady to get my Pilgrim Passport and the very first stamp.
    Leer más

  • Day 1 - The first step

    28 de abril, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    St Jean Pied Du Port to Refuge Orisson
    8.2km
    Bags got collected from the Air BnB and I bought some rations at the local store, then off to the starting line. 800km is about 1 million steps, so the first step through the Porte d’Espagne was memorable. My great trek has started!
    Even though town was quiet with not too many pilgrims around, a snaking line of bright colours soon settled into a rhythm along the path.
    Feeling really grateful to have this opportunity and blessing, feeling nervous and excited about what’s to come, feeling uncertain about my ability to complete, and feeling curious about all the wonderful sights, sounds, people and experiences over the coming days.
    Moments of the day - The first step of 1 million, seeing the mist in the valley of the Pyrenees foothills, and watching the souring eagles so close I could hear the wind passing over their wings.
    Leer más

  • Day 2 - I walked over the Pyrenees

    29 de abril, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Orisson to Burguete Auritz
    22.5km
    Refuge Orisson to Burguete-Auritz
    Woke up early enough to see the sun rise, and to join the Pilgrims breakfast at 7am sharp. The alburgue hosts were pretty clear about their timings and expectations, but they are experienced and it worked perfectly.
    On the road by 7.30 in windy conditions with strong gusts, but skies were blue again for another stunning day. The views just got better and better as I climbed.
    I loved the climb though, not too strenuous although there were some steep bits. Walking through the beech forest out of the wind was great.
    The Lepoeder high point was a real box-tick moment, everything from here is down, and the views over the Navarre valley and seeing my destination was great.
    Roncesvalles was a good place for a deserved Sangria with my lunch sandwich, and a look around the pilgrim complex, before starting the last few km to the hotel.
    Moment of the day undoubtedly was conquering the Pyrenees - I have been planning for a long time and now can say that “I walked over the Pyrenees”. Objective #1 well and truly achieved.
    Leer más

  • Day 3 - The forests of Navarra

    30 de abril, España ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Burguete Auritz to Urdaniz
    23.3km
    A wholesome pilgrims breakfast at Hotel Loizu and on the road by 8:15 on a chilly morning but perfect blue skies again. My morning walking buddy was Roy from Quebec and discussions ranged from Lord of the Rings, to policy analysis, to Trump, and Machu Picchu. Also bumped into Kiwis Richard and Denise from Auckland.
    Walking conditions were perfect through the beech forests, mid teens temperatures, good underfoot but with some puffing Billy hill climbs and stream crossings.
    Some pretty villages on the way until the morning coffee at El Dragon, and then lunch served from a caravan at Alto de Erro.
    The downhill to Zubiri was a killer, very stony path and relatively steep with jagged shale rock shelves to navigate. My toes took a hammering, blister country for sure.
    After Zubiri walked the last few km to the guesthouses at Urdaniz.
    Took a walk to see the nearby Abby but was all locked up.
    Walking distance so far = 8.2 + 22.5 + 23.3 today = 54km.
    Moments of the day was the peaceful dappled shade walking through the forests with birdsong and wind pushing through the leaves. Also, having the flock of sheep being herded past us, a Navarra traffic jam.
    Lesson learned so far is from Bruce the Australian, 88 years old on his 5th Camino. “I have a box waiting for me. I’m walking to keep ahead of it.”
    Leer más

  • Day 4 - Olé Olé Pamplona

    30 de abril, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Urdaniz to Pamplona
    19.9km
    The guesthouse in Urdaniz turned out to be good, a fantastic salad and roast chicken communal dinner with Korean, French, Aussie and Italian guests. Breakfast was the usual bread and jam with coffee and orange juice, good carbs to see us on our way. It was a relief to get going, the French lady snores like a diesel engine all night so sleep wasn’t good.
    It was perfect walking weather, slightly overcast and temps in the mid teens. The track was generally good with shade and minor undulations, and followed a contour track beside the Arga river, which goes through to Pamplona.
    My walking buddies this morning were Nick and Kathleen from Devon, we generally chatted and laughed the whole way, it was great.
    Pamplona is a nice city, very quiet because of the 1 May holiday, but there were 2 lively marching demonstrations, watched from a distance by armed police.
    The moment of the day was bumping into Tom from Perth, my upstairs bunk neighbour from Orisson. I reminded him of his great quote that he’d never seen the sunrise over the mountains, which made me realise how much we sometimes take for granted or don’t appreciate. We may not walk these steps again so let’s enjoy each one.
    Walking distance total 73.9km
    Leer más

  • Day 4 - Pamplona pinctxos

    1 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a shower and a rest, time to hit the town. I popped in to the Iglesia de San Lorenzo, the home of the statue of the city’s patron saint, St Fermin. The bull run is held on St Fermin holiday. Also the St Nicholas church dating back to the 1100s. Spent some time loving the vibe around town, which had come alive by early evening, around the Plaza del Castillo, full of happy people and surrounded by bars and eateries. First stop, Cafe Inuna, famous as the bar where Ernest Hemingway characters dined and drank (and so did he). Had 2 yummy pinctxos and a beer - anchovy/salmon/cream cheese and anchovy/picked veges. Second stop was Bar Cerveceria La Estafeta for another 2 pinctxos - pimiento and chistorra. Last stop was the best at Bar Gaucho for the last 2 pinctxos and a Tinto Verana - codfish with egg in filo and pork cheek in cheese sauce - unbelievably tasty!
    I could do more of Pamplona, what a nice city.
    Moment of the day - Pintxos crawling!
    Leer más

  • Day 5 - Up up up, then wet wet wet

    2 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Pamplona to Puerte la Reina
    29.2km
    The day started out with a 25% chance of rain, so a reasonably early start to have a quick breakfast, then walk through the suburbs of Pamplona and university towards Alto del Perdon. It took a couple of hours to leave Pamplona and then about an hour to summit the hill with bad weather and thunderstorms threatening. The Alto del Perdon is iconic, so a thrill to get here. Then a race down the sometimes tricky decent with loose rocks underfoot. And then the heavens opened and we got drenched in rain, thunder, lightning, and hail. The walk through the fields of wheat, peas, and rapeseed was nice though. A well deserved hot lunch of tortilla and coffee at TJ e Nueva Apertura Gastrobar in Uterga, which was heaving with drenched pilgrims. Later bumped into Cas from Perth and Erica from California, and we walked the rest of the afternoon together in the rain. Saw the Statue of the Pilgrim in Obanos then took a detour to see the church of Saint Mary of Eunate in the countryside, which was closed. Eventually got in to Puente La Reina at 4pm after a big day, 29.2km.
    Moments of the day included the experience of getting drenched and seeing the hail falling. The big moment was that I have now walked further than ever, exceeding the 85km Old Ghost Road to a new personal best.
    Leer más

  • Day 5 - Puente la Reina

    2 de mayo, España ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a hot shower and freshening up, a walk around the pretty medieval town to explore.
    Just up from my BnB was the Church of Santiago the Great, with a huge bell tower meant to guide pilgrims to Puente la Reina. It has a massive doorway and inside is ornately decorated with sculptures and lots of gold.
    I saw the Church of the Crucifix dating back to the Templars, a very simple church with a fantastic doorway and only a large crucifix inside.
    I strolled down to the iconic bridge, which pilgrims have been using for almost a thousand years.
    A nice pilgrims dinner at a local bar afterwards for only 15€ including a Russian salad, roast partridge, a baked cheese flan, and a beer.
    Leer más

  • Day 6 - Here comes the sun

    3 de mayo, España ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Puente La Reina to Estella
    22.9km
    After the almighty storms of yesterday the sun came out in force today. Initially it was pleasant but after lunch and late afternoon was uncomfortable in the high 20s.
    Today’s section was from Puente La Reina to Estella.
    Jacki Mylchreest from Te Awamutu spotted me in Citauqui, said hi, we got chatting, and next minute we’d spent the day together. It was lovely walking and chatting with Jacki and her sister Laurie.
    Today we were treated to lovely views across the farmlands, poppies, rapeseed, wheat, and all under blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    The track varied from flat an pleasant, through to some puffing billy uphills, and my poor blisters were at times struggling with some rocks and loose stones.
    By the time I’d got to my alburgue I was well and truly ready for a shower. This alburgue in Estella is the best by far!
    Accumulated distance is now 126.0km
    The moment of the day was the surprise of bumping into Jacki and Laurie, it’s quite remarkable given all the variables.
    Leer más

  • Day 7 - Spring glory

    4 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Estella to Los Arcos
    21.9km
    It was a funny old day today. The pilgrim grapevine was alive with the news of rain on the trail later in the day. Some folk set off at 2am to beat the rain! Not me, a nice continental breakfast at the best accommodation yet, and then on the road just after 8am.
    It was a lovely morning, blue skies with light cloud, nippy enough for a light jacket, and dead quiet in Estella on a Sunday morning.
    First stop was the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache! I had bought my camping cup specifically for this moment. Not premier vintage, not not vinegar either, in fact quite good table wine. Apparently 100 litres are made available daily, getting there at 9am was perfect.
    The day was mostly unremarkable, in a good way. Track condition generally good, generally not too much hill climbing, some forest walking but mostly through fields of agricultural produce, and we beat the rain.
    But Spain in Spring, wow! The views today were what I was hoping for. Lots of fields of young wheat waving in the breeze, fields of peas, vineyards, and olive orchards. All bordered by wild poppies and rapeseed. Very pretty.
    My accommodation tonight is very interesting, an old Knights Templar hostel where they would accept pilgrims to the holy land, and then provide security along the route. La Casa De Jerusalem is the name. The door is big enough for a horse.
    Accumulated distance 147.9km
    Moment of the day - hours of walking through drop-dead gorgeous spring fields.
    Leer más

  • Reflections and observations

    4 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Since my last update I’m well on the way of my big walk, already 7 days in. Tonight is in Los Arcos and im staying in an old Knights Templar hostel, where they recievwd people on the way to the holy land and then accompanied them as security.

    When you’re walking long distances every day there’s lots of time to think 😊 so here are some highlights and observations so far.

    Spring in northern Spain. Wow! Everywhere I look is so pretty with the wheat fields, the pea fields, the vineyards, the olive groves, and the amazing rapeseed fields. Bordered by poppies and wild rapeseed. Underneath blue skies and fluffy white clouds. The soundtrack of birdsong completing the experience. Just wow!

    Mario Cart trail walking. An amusing little dance happens every day, similar to Mario Cart racing. Everyone is walking their own pace, mostly staying in different digs, starting and ending at different times, and sometimes walking different distances. And yet I keep bumping into familiar people as we pass each other or spend a rest together, just like Mario Carts with someone new in the lead all the time.

    Joy. We all have different reasons for walking, but the objective stays the same, to reach the end. The shared objective means we’re all on the same page, and as a result everyone is happy and engaging with stories, jokes and anecdotes. It’s just so nice.

    New records. Up till now the furthest I’d ever walked was the 85km Old Ghost Road. Tomorrow I’ll pass 150km. If I was more agile I’d pat myself on the back 😄. Still a very long way to go, and lots could still go wrong (my poor feet with blisters), but every step forward is a new personal best for me.

    Eat the croissants. No one knows what tomorrow holds. The trail is teaching me to enjoy every step I take, I might never be here again, enjoy all the small things and don’t put them off. Breakfasts are usually a pastry with coffee and orange juice (why don’t we do this at home?), which is great. Just eat the croissant and stop worrying.

    Grateful. On night #1 we were all asked to introduce ourselves and say why we were walking. I was proudly the only kiwi (everyone loves us!) and that I was walking as my great adventure. Going around the room there were some sob stories where some people were really doing life tough. I felt a little guilty that our lives and providence were so good and others were not, but at the same time very grateful.
    Leer más

  • Day 8 - The long haul to Logroño

    5 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Los Arcos to Logroño
    30.1km
    I knew it was a long day ahead, and as I woke up early I de used to hit the road. Got walking at 6.30 and beat the sun, but others were too. Relatively easy walking to Torre del Rio for first coffee stop. I’m still battling a cold so coffee plus orange juice.
    The onwards tracks were good for walking, but generally inclining with the occasional steep climb. There was a sobering moment after Torres del Rio with many many cairns and memorials for loved ones, some who had died on the trail.
    Company was good today, Cass from Perth, Melissa from Perth, Ian from Cape Town, and Nora from Finland. Spent time chatting with each.
    The promised rain came in at 10am, my new umbrella held up well, but is amusing to see all the coloured ponchos bobbing along like turtles.
    A really amusing moment in Viana when we were pulled aside by two policemen, only to find that they were on admission to find pilgrims, stamp their pilgrim passports, and give a momento. So good.
    Reached Logroño at about 2.30pm which exceeded expectations. Feet very sore and right shoe has spat the dummy.
    After a bit of drama eventually into the Air BnB with a friendly host, collect my luggage, have a well earned shower, then a bit of exploring. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda is imposing and pretty special, it even has its own little Michelangelo!
    Finished the evening with a fantastic polpo before an early night ahead of another big day.
    Accumulated distance 178.0km
    Moment of the day was being stopped by the policemen, just so good.
    Leer más

  • Day 9 - Into Rioja country

    6 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Logroño to Najera
    30.6km
    Today was always going to be a long walk, so up early and out the door for 6.30 walking. A cold day greeted me with a biting breeze, the temp never got more that 10deg the whole day. Also a threat of rain.
    Logroño was a very nice city, I really enjoyed my time, and leaving before the city got going meant the 1hr long walk out of town was pleasant. Lots of green spaces with play equipment for kids too.
    It was very pleasant walking around the Grajera lake and parklands, even saw a red squirrel out for breakfast.
    We’re definitely in wine country here, famous for the Rioja red wine. It would be rude for me not to try some.
    It was a long haul to the first stop at Navarette as I hadn’t had breakfast yet. Another pretty little town with an impressive cathedral. How does each little town or village support them?
    The big day turned out great. It was a solo walk today, but the cool temps and the flat-ish and well graded path making walking good. I ate up the km and got to Najera at 2pm, the last 1/2hr in a light drizzle.
    Accumulated distance 208.6km
    Moments of the day were viewing the huge expanse of vineyards, probably 20km nonstop, and secondly reading that I have already completed 25% of my journey - wow!
    Leer más

  • Day 10 - Views that go on forever

    7 de mayo, España ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
    21.4km
    After a nice sleep and breakfast at the best 1 star hotel you can imagine, I left Najera on a very cold morning, 2 or 3deg which needed my puffer jacket.
    The first half of the day was excellent walking conditions passing many more vineyards. The cold was justified, I could see snow on the highest peak in the distant range, which turned out to be San Lorenzo. Mostly solo walking but spent some time chatting to Martin from Melbourne.
    After a long 2km uphill, a picnic lunch at the top. It was chilly in the shade but gorgeous in the sun.
    After a strangely deserted Cirueña, the agriculture changed to wheat, peas and broad beans., with occasional rapeseed. The views were out of this world, like a painting with green as far as the eye could see and beneath perfect blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    Got into Santo Domingo in good time, so checked in, showered, washed clothes, and had time to explore. Checked out the bridge, Cathedral, bell tower, and then paella and Rioja for dinner.
    Accumulated distance 240km
    Moment of the day was coming over the rise and being hit with the views of the fields, breathtaking.
    Leer más

  • Day 11 - Into Castille y Leon region

    8 de mayo, España ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Santo Domingo to Belorado
    24.1km
    Accumulated distance 264.1km
    It was another out of the box gorgeous day, a chilly start, but perfect walking conditions. About 1.5hrs out of Santo Domingo I bumped into mates Bruce from Omokoroa and Doug the Scotsman from Hastings UK. We spent the day together, great chats and lots of laughs. It was slow going though, Bruce managing blisters and Doug managing Achilles. First stop for second breakfast at Grañón, where we bumped into Brendan and Karen from Gold Coast again (lunch yesterday). I finally tried the crushed tomato on toast, yum. The walk out of Grañón was really pretty overlooking the sea of green wheat and pea fields. We said goodbye to Rioja, evidenced by the absence of vineyards, and said hello to Castille y Leon, one of Spain’s largest regions. Walking conditions continued to be good, some long uphills, but generally easily done. Said our goodbyes 5km out from Belorado and got into town later than usual, around 4pm. Belorado is known for its wall murals, but otherwise not too much to see. Had one of the meals of the trip at the restaurant opposite my Alburgue, a 16€ three course meal, with pork cheeks again, yum! The place was busy so shared a table with Paul and Beck from Perth who are cycling the route, a very pleasant evening.
    Moment of the day was the fantastic pork cheeks, a mission for home is to seek them out.
    Leer más

  • Day 12 - A day for the umbrella

    9 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Belorado to San Juan de Ortega
    25.0km
    Accumulated distance 289.1km
    A slowish start today knowing there wasn’t much to do at my destination. I left around 8.30 in search of breakfast. The Camino lore is never stop at the first bar as the second is likely better , and if you’re brave enough then the third might be best. I tried this at the first village, boldly walking past the first bar having seen a sign to the second. It was closed of course so tail between my legs I returned for a very average tomato toast with coffee.
    The first half of the day was the wheat fields of the Tiron river valley, and it was sporadic mist and rain.
    A picnic lunch at Villafranca Montes de Oca, then climb climb up to the pine plantations. It was very enjoyable walking through the fringe forests in the mist before reaching the top.
    The forestry roads were nice easy walking, but the heavens really opened with thunder and hail. My umbrella worked a treat.
    Sporadic rain for the afternoon including the last half hour with thunder as I entered San Juan, population 20, three bars, a monastery, and a church, it felt like a scene from a Clint Eastwood western.
    Very friendly people and great pork chop with blood sausage for dinner.
    Moment of the day was the peaceful walking through the misty forests, with birdsong and the occasional cuckoo call, it was quite magical.
    Leer más

  • Day 13 - Stage 1, done

    10 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos
    27.2km
    Accumulated distance 316.3km
    Today was always going to be notable, I was finishing stage 1 in Burgos, and I needed to get a wriggle on to collect my new shoes from a depot closing at 1.30pm.
    That meant on the road at 6.30am without breakfast. First opportunity was an hour later at Ages, a pretty little town with ramshackle half-timber homes. Croissant, fresh orange juice and coffee knocked back and I was off again.
    Had a nice chat to Garret from Ireland for a while till we parted ways, I was heading south of the airport and he was going straight on.
    Apart from breakfast, no stops all the way to Burgos.
    To keep amused I named my blisters after high school teachers. Inner right foot near my toe, Arnott, irritating, incessant, a huge distraction.
    Outer right foot, Combrink, looked scary but actually no problem.
    Right heel double blisters, Brown, big, mean, violent, enjoys causing pain.
    Left heel, Faber, not as bad as Brown, memorably painful.
    Once again entering town in a massive downpour for the last 2 hrs, more thunder and hail.
    I made it in time, just, and collected my new walking sandals to an to my hotel for a rest.
    My feet were trashed, spent the afternoon popping blisters, had a good shower, then some badly needed laundry.
    No sightseeing today, tomorrow is a zero walk day so I’ll explore tomorrow.
    I ticked over 300km today, go me.
    Burgos also represents the end of stage 1, which they refer to as the Body stage, and the difficulty reduces, or maybe we’re accustomed to the walking? The moment of the day, despite the wet weather, was walking into Burgos knowing that I had achieved my next big milestone! It felt really good.
    Leer más

  • Reflections and observations

    10 de mayo, España ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I’ve hit a huge milestone finishing the first stage, so more thoughts and reflections.

    Finding the groove
    In the morning creaking joints but just start and all comes right as we get going. A good life lesson. Time flies and 10km goes by in a flash. I would never have expected to be thinking like this a few months ago. A training walk was a planned and deliberate exercise with appropriate logistics, now we just walk.

    So many churches
    Each town or village has one or more medieval church. Usually huge imposing buildings designed to be seen from afar. And inside decorated with ornamentations and gold that defy comprehending. The money, the desire, the drive to develop them back 100s of years ago is just astonishing. At home we turn every infrastructure decision into a war of words nowadays, maybe we need to be more focussed on why we’re doing what we’re doing rather than getting distracted by the details.

    Slow down
    Living life at walking pace is unusual in this day and age. We drive everywhere, all the time, sometimes too fast. Living slow allows us to see, hear, smell everything around us, and really appreciate life.

    Rural Spain
    The small villages and the agricultural countryside has been wonderful, particularly the forested areas. I’ve enjoyed the peacefulness of the walk, the birdsong and the cuckoo call which I’ve not heard before. One particular memory will be walking into a village of population 20, three bars, a monastery, and a church, in a thunderstorm - it felt like a scene from a Clint Eastwood western.

    Love the feet
    My shoe choice didn’t work out, so heaps of blisters. To keep amused I named my blisters after high school teachers. Inner right foot near my toe, Arnott - irritating, incessant, an unnecessarily distraction. Outer right foot, Combrink - looked scary but actually just fine. Right heel double blisters, Brown - big, mean, violent, enjoys causing pain. Left heel double blisters, Faber - not as bad as Brown, but memorably painful. I bought new sandals, hopefully better from now on.

    Stage 1, done
    After 9 days I passed 200km, which kind of snuck up on me. Then at 12 days I was over 300km. The early days of the walk get consumed by the logistics of the day - strapping up everything that’s hurting, the start time, selected route, what to consider along the way, what to organise for the destination. Meantime km keep on accumulating, and next minute I’ve hit a milestone. Burgos is the end of stage 1, which they refer to as the Body stage, and the difficulty reduces, or maybe we’re accustomed to the walking? I’ve now walked over 300km, go me, who would have thought a year or so ago? It feels good.

    Life is good.
    Leer más

  • Day 13.0 - Burgos

    10 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Rest day! A zero km day in Burgos so an opportunity to look around and enjoy the city and the break.
    Also an opportunity to test my new walking sandals before the next leg of the walk.
    Saturday night was lively, some rain but it didn’t put the locals off, including a free live concert outside the Museum of Human Evolution.
    I had a fantastic tapas meal out in a heaving bar, such a great vibe, I don’t know how the wait staff keep on top of charging with all the individual orders and meals.
    Burgos really is nice, it still has a sense of its old royal past, but lots of young people out enjoying themselves.
    Next morning was a churros with hot chocolate for breakfast before mass.
    Took a walk down the pedestrian promenade next to the river, saw a classical orchestra setting up for a free concert, but just round the corner was a marching drumming band popular with the locals.
    Burgos is very nice.
    Leer más

  • Day 13.0 - Museum of Human Evolution

    11 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Yesterday I walked over the Atapuerca mountain, a limestone region which it turns out has been inhabited for 100s of thousands of years by early humans. Burgos has an amazing museum of human evolution, possibly the best museum I have visited in terms of story telling and clarity of the displays.
    I didn’t take heaps of photos, but was really interested in the early human history, and briefly skipped over the progress into human technology.
    The story behind how the limestone caves fill up with debris over long periods of time, therefore preserving history, and how the ancient humans used these caves for trapping animals to kill, was very interesting.
    Leer más

  • Day 13.0 - St Mary of Burgos Cathedral

    11 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Burgos Cathedral is revered in Spain as one of the finest gothic cathedrals, possibly in all of Europe. I decided to attend 10.30 morning mass held in the Chapel of St Tecla, which was a new experience. I don’t know the Catholic traditions and I can’t speak Spanish, but other than that it was great.
    The cathedral is huge, but what surprised me was the number of chapels in the building, basically all the sides had individual chapels along both naves as well behind the main altar, and each dedicated to a different saint, or some remembrance. Fascinating.
    I spent a good few hours exploring, most memorable was the main altar in the middle of the church, the ornamentation and detail just not describable.
    The moment of the day was undoubtedly experiencing the morning mass.
    Leer más

  • Day 14 - The road less traveled

    12 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Burgos to Estapar
    26.1km
    Accumulated distance 342.4km
    It was a late start this morning. I’d forgotten to get my pilgrim passport stamped yesterday so wait until the cathedral opened at 9.30am. It gave me time to relax, have a decent breakfast, then hit the road. It was nice to see Burgos under nice sunshine, but a cold 7deg start.
    Today was going to be tricky with careful navigation. My accommodation is off the beaten track so I don’t have to e luxury of following the Camino route. It was going to be a google day.
    The first hour out of town was nice, following the river through parkland with trees and statues, very pleasant.
    My first challenge leaving the established route was blocked by roadworks. Got turned around a bit but worked my way through to the country roads. Nice walking conditions in my new sandals, so far so good and comfy soles over the rocks and stones.
    Relatively uneventful day, and my first day being absolutely solo, not another person to be seen walking all day. Surprisingly pleasant to be on my own.
    Passed through a couple of villages, also mostly deserted, and also passed another failed housing development outside Buniel, another casualty of the 2008 crash.
    Lunch stop at a roadside service centre then the last few hours to my hotel in Estapar.
    The moment of the day was more like an extended period of time alone, experiencing the silence, waving wheat fields, and the enormous amount of wind turbines.
    Leer más

  • Day 15 - Into the Meseta

    13 de mayo, España ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Estapar to Castrojirez
    26.2km
    Accumulated distance 368.6km
    It was drizzling when I left Estapar, a few hours of navigation ahead of me to get back to the Camino route. Some of the route was on roads which had pros and cons, good to make up time, but a hard surface and have to watch for cars.
    The morning views were nice, and I started getting a sense that I was entering the Meseta with the flatter landscape, big sky views, and huge wheat fields.
    It took about 3 hrs to get back onto the Camino route and finally saw some people again.
    Nice break and lunch in Hontanas, then back onto the path again. Apart from the sticky mud, the walking was generally good underfoot, with some unevenness that hurt my blisters and gave me a new one.
    Bumped into Brendan and Karen again at the ruins of the Convent of San Antón, they are also in Castrojirez tonight.
    Nice looking hotel, I rather enjoyed the relaxation rather than exploring town.
    Moment of the day was just before Castrojirez where I passed a wheat field dotted with red poppy heads, it looked great.
    Leer más

  • Day 16 - Views forever

    14 de mayo, España ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C

    Castrojirez to Boadilla del Camino
    19.8km
    Accumulated distance 388.4km
    A casual time out the door of the very Italian-esque Jacobus hotel after breakfast. Unsure what the weather holds, about 8deg to start and a forecast for rain.
    We continue on good walking tracks, nicely graded and in good condition but proud standing stones still keep finding my blisters. I had a new blister develop on the outside of my left foot with my new sandals yesterday, I called her Gullston - came out of nowhere, nasty, and angry.
    First challenge of the day about an hr out of town, a very steep climb up to the Mirador del Alto de Monstelares, about 140m elevation gain. It was hard work but quite satisfying overtaking the cyclist who had passed me earlier in the valley. The views from the top were breathtaking, back to town with low lying cloud and mist, and forwards over the Meseta where it felt like we could see forever.
    I bumped into Brendan and Karen coming down the other side and we spent the rest of the morning together.
    The rest of the day was continuing through the expansive wheat fields with lots of great views.
    Picnic lunch stop in Itero de la Vega where I parted with my walking buddies.
    The rest of the route was good going making good time to get into Boadilla del Camino by 2.30 to check into the hotel and a good few hours ahead of the thunder and rain.
    Moment of the day was powering past the walking cyclist up Alto de Monstelares, and the few times coming over a little rise to a new view opening up over the fields.
    Leer más