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Camino de Santiago - May 2025
  • ShaunLC
  • ShaunLC

Camino de Santiago - May 2025

Shaun's long long walk across Spain along the Camino Frances, from St Jean Pied du Port in France, to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 35 days of walking, with a few rest days, over a distance of about 800km. Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 26, 2025
    ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Casa Valles
    Casa Valles - Gilda (anchovy/olive/pepper)Casa Valles - Chipiron (squid with potatoes and magic pepper? sauce). Yum!!Bar Txepetxa for anchovy three ways, with prawn, with spider crab, with peppers - yumLa VinaLa Vina - San Sebastián cheesecake, one portion is two slices and it was crazy good - yum!!!Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San SebastiánSan Vicente ChurchA rainy night in San SebastiánAn early morning start back on the road, goodbye San Sebastián

    San Sebastian

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    En route to the start of the Camino de Santiago was an overnight stop in San Sebastián after a 6 hr bus journey. It’s a foodie paradise and home of the pintxos, so a night out was required. Three stops in the manner of the tapas crawler - Casa Valles, Bar Txepetxa, and La Vina. Also took the opportunity to pop into a couple of churches.
    Moments of the day - a sad farewell in Madrid, but fantastic pintxos in San Sebastián.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    The ancient city gate, the Porte de Saint Jacques
    SJPDP is a very pretty little townLooking down over the Notre Dame gate and onto the Vieux Pont bridgeNotre Dame gate and Vieux Pont bridgeLooking upstream on the Nive RiverNotre Dame gateReady for tomorrow at the Notre Dame gateNotre Dame du Bout du Port churchVieux Pont over the NiveOverlooking SJPDP in cold and drizzle from the Citadel of MendigurenAt Citadel of MendigurenDinner at 5pm in France is too early for lots of meal choices. It was a very good burger though.

    Day 0 - Saint Jean Pied Du Port

    April 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    An early bus from San Sebastián to Bayonne to catch the connecting train, only for the train to be cancelled. A bus arrived, we all piled on without checking tickets, and made our way through pretty green scenery to Saint Jean Pied Du Port in the rain. Settled in to the Air BnB and explored the very cute town.
    Was lucky with almost no one collecting Pilgrim passports so was attended to quickly. I checked in with an 88 year old man on his 5th Camino!
    Hopefully the grim weather improves tomorrow.
    Moment of the day - sitting down in front of the very helpful French lady to get my Pilgrim Passport and the very first stamp.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    The shell is the icon of the Camino de Santiago, with all routes converging on the destination
    2Porte d'Espangne, that away to Santiago de Compostella. My journey begins!1A bright new day awaitsAfter days of rain we are treated to an absolute mint dayGreens bursting with colour, blue skies, and morning mist still in the valleysMy companion on my solo walkDonkeys grateful for the sunI had imagined this view for a long timeIt was a heck of a climb, no complaints about stopping for a breatherThis was the route over the Pyrenees which Napoleon took on his Iberian campaignAnother breatherWhat a view over the foothills of the PyreneesWe were circled by eagles for a while. What did they know which we didn't...1Destination reached, Refuge OrissonChorizo sandwich with French beer, a decent lunch with an amazing viewThe amazing view from the lunch deckA relatively short day to start off with, but a decent climb

    Day 1 - The first step

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    St Jean Pied Du Port to Refuge Orisson
    8.2km
    Bags got collected from the Air BnB and I bought some rations at the local store, then off to the starting line. 800km is about 1 million steps, so the first step through the Porte d’Espagne was memorable. My great trek has started!
    Even though town was quiet with not too many pilgrims around, a snaking line of bright colours soon settled into a rhythm along the path.
    Feeling really grateful to have this opportunity and blessing, feeling nervous and excited about what’s to come, feeling uncertain about my ability to complete, and feeling curious about all the wonderful sights, sounds, people and experiences over the coming days.
    Moments of the day - The first step of 1 million, seeing the mist in the valley of the Pyrenees foothills, and watching the souring eagles so close I could hear the wind passing over their wings.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Sunrise over the Pyrenees on a blustery but clear morning
    We were warned, Pilgrims breakfast "between 7 and 7.30, after there will be no more".My constant companion on my solo journeyThe only way is up up up to the top of the passThe Virgin of Orisson1Very hardy animals up here, my thermometer was reading 11deg but there was a decent wind chill tooAnd we continue up up upMore up up upWalking the contour path through the beech forest and in thy e wind shadow was beautifulThe Lepoeder viewpoint, the high point of the pass. Below is my destination, Burguete-AuritzDown down down through more beech forest to RoncesvallesThe pretty church of Santiago as I enter RoncesvallesE old pilgrim hospital in Roncesvalles is now a pilgrim hostel, an alburgueInside the church of Santa Maria with beautiful stained glass windowsSancho VII (The Strong) lies at rest in the chapel of St AugustineLots to eat for these horses. A month or two ago this would have been under snow.Ticking off the km, only 790 to go apparentlyLovely walking track between Roncesvalles and Burguette-AuritzThe iconic shell wayfinders in Spain, in France there were painted red and white stripes

    Day 2 - I walked over the Pyrenees

    April 29 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Orisson to Burguete Auritz
    22.5km
    Refuge Orisson to Burguete-Auritz
    Woke up early enough to see the sun rise, and to join the Pilgrims breakfast at 7am sharp. The alburgue hosts were pretty clear about their timings and expectations, but they are experienced and it worked perfectly.
    On the road by 7.30 in windy conditions with strong gusts, but skies were blue again for another stunning day. The views just got better and better as I climbed.
    I loved the climb though, not too strenuous although there were some steep bits. Walking through the beech forest out of the wind was great.
    The Lepoeder high point was a real box-tick moment, everything from here is down, and the views over the Navarre valley and seeing my destination was great.
    Roncesvalles was a good place for a deserved Sangria with my lunch sandwich, and a look around the pilgrim complex, before starting the last few km to the hotel.
    Moment of the day undoubtedly was conquering the Pyrenees - I have been planning for a long time and now can say that “I walked over the Pyrenees”. Objective #1 well and truly achieved.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Quite a few stream crossings today. I enjoyed the bridge, just a big grunty stone slab.
    Friendly locals2These horses must have had a big night outBeautiful peaceful forests, great walking conditions.Another river crossing, only for the sure-footedNavarra traffic jamEl Dragon morning coffee breakI e started to notice a few crosses/headstones/memorials along the route. A sober reminder.Lunch at the Nostalgik Bar! Near Alto de Erro.Apparently coke is called "pilgrim gasoline"Blister alert! My poor feet and toes took a beating. Sharp shale and loose rocks made tough going.Blister alert! My poor feet and toes took a beating. Sharp shale and loose rocks made tough going.Helpful pilgrim route markers will be my best friend.The medieval Puente de la Rabia entering Zubiri.The abbey of Santa Lucia, just outside of UrdanizThe graveyard at the abbey. Lots of 80 to 100 year old clergy folk in there.

    Day 3 - The forests of Navarra

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Burguete Auritz to Urdaniz
    23.3km
    A wholesome pilgrims breakfast at Hotel Loizu and on the road by 8:15 on a chilly morning but perfect blue skies again. My morning walking buddy was Roy from Quebec and discussions ranged from Lord of the Rings, to policy analysis, to Trump, and Machu Picchu. Also bumped into Kiwis Richard and Denise from Auckland.
    Walking conditions were perfect through the beech forests, mid teens temperatures, good underfoot but with some puffing Billy hill climbs and stream crossings.
    Some pretty villages on the way until the morning coffee at El Dragon, and then lunch served from a caravan at Alto de Erro.
    The downhill to Zubiri was a killer, very stony path and relatively steep with jagged shale rock shelves to navigate. My toes took a hammering, blister country for sure.
    After Zubiri walked the last few km to the guesthouses at Urdaniz.
    Took a walk to see the nearby Abby but was all locked up.
    Walking distance so far = 8.2 + 22.5 + 23.3 today = 54km.
    Moments of the day was the peaceful dappled shade walking through the forests with birdsong and wind pushing through the leaves. Also, having the flock of sheep being herded past us, a Navarra traffic jam.
    Lesson learned so far is from Bruce the Australian, 88 years old on his 5th Camino. “I have a box waiting for me. I’m walking to keep ahead of it.”    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    The Basque are a proud people
    It's the season for baby foalsQuite a bit of street art on the few flat surfaces along the path. Nick photobombed.The Trinity bridge on the northern outskirts of PamplonaAt the Trinity bridgeThe route markers in PamplonaIt's meI'm looking for the bullring, crossing the Puente de la MagdalenaPuente de la MagdalenaErnest Hemingway, at the Plaza de Toros bull fighting arenaPlaza de TorosMonumento al Encierro sculpture commemorating the annual bull run in Pamplona1A quiet day on Calle de la Zapatería pedestrian shopping street

    Day 4 - Olé Olé Pamplona

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Urdaniz to Pamplona
    19.9km
    The guesthouse in Urdaniz turned out to be good, a fantastic salad and roast chicken communal dinner with Korean, French, Aussie and Italian guests. Breakfast was the usual bread and jam with coffee and orange juice, good carbs to see us on our way. It was a relief to get going, the French lady snores like a diesel engine all night so sleep wasn’t good.
    It was perfect walking weather, slightly overcast and temps in the mid teens. The track was generally good with shade and minor undulations, and followed a contour track beside the Arga river, which goes through to Pamplona.
    My walking buddies this morning were Nick and Kathleen from Devon, we generally chatted and laughed the whole way, it was great.
    Pamplona is a nice city, very quiet because of the 1 May holiday, but there were 2 lively marching demonstrations, watched from a distance by armed police.
    The moment of the day was bumping into Tom from Perth, my upstairs bunk neighbour from Orisson. I reminded him of his great quote that he’d never seen the sunrise over the mountains, which made me realise how much we sometimes take for granted or don’t appreciate. We may not walk these steps again so let’s enjoy each one.
    Walking distance total 73.9km    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Iglesia de San Lorenzo
    Iglesia de San LorenzoIglesia de San LorenzoIglesia de San LorenzoSt Nicholas churchSt Nicholas churchSt Nicholas church1Plaza del CastilloCafe Iruna1Cafe Iruna1Bar Cerveceria La EstafetaBar Cerveceria La EstafetaBar GauchoBar GauchoA day well spent. Sunset over Pamplona.

    Day 4 - Pamplona pinctxos

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a shower and a rest, time to hit the town. I popped in to the Iglesia de San Lorenzo, the home of the statue of the city’s patron saint, St Fermin. The bull run is held on St Fermin holiday. Also the St Nicholas church dating back to the 1100s. Spent some time loving the vibe around town, which had come alive by early evening, around the Plaza del Castillo, full of happy people and surrounded by bars and eateries. First stop, Cafe Inuna, famous as the bar where Ernest Hemingway characters dined and drank (and so did he). Had 2 yummy pinctxos and a beer - anchovy/salmon/cream cheese and anchovy/picked veges. Second stop was Bar Cerveceria La Estafeta for another 2 pinctxos - pimiento and chistorra. Last stop was the best at Bar Gaucho for the last 2 pinctxos and a Tinto Verana - codfish with egg in filo and pork cheek in cheese sauce - unbelievably tasty!
    I could do more of Pamplona, what a nice city.
    Moment of the day - Pintxos crawling!    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Route markers out of Pamplona, surprisingly easy to miss, had a local shout out and correct me
    I'm going to get fat with all this walking. No breakfast at guesthouse Escaray.The first poppies of the walkOut of Pamplona and approaching Alto del Perdon, wheat fieldsMore friendly localsAbout half way up Alto del Perdon1Iconic steel silhouettes at the top of Alro del Perdon, the line of pilgrims2Another hill summittedSpring wildflowersRacing the weather down the stony and rocky trailAfter Alto del Perdon we got heavy rain, thunder and lightning, and hail for the afternoonAfter the big stormPea fields.Hectares of pea fields. They were yum.Statue of the Pilgrim, at Obanos11A detour to the Church of Saint Mary of Eunate, an octagonal church from the 1100s. It was closed.Puente La Reina on a wet afternoon, a pretty medieval townToday took me over the 100km mark, to 103.2km, excluding evening walks

    Day 5 - Up up up, then wet wet wet

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Pamplona to Puerte la Reina
    29.2km
    The day started out with a 25% chance of rain, so a reasonably early start to have a quick breakfast, then walk through the suburbs of Pamplona and university towards Alto del Perdon. It took a couple of hours to leave Pamplona and then about an hour to summit the hill with bad weather and thunderstorms threatening. The Alto del Perdon is iconic, so a thrill to get here. Then a race down the sometimes tricky decent with loose rocks underfoot. And then the heavens opened and we got drenched in rain, thunder, lightning, and hail. The walk through the fields of wheat, peas, and rapeseed was nice though. A well deserved hot lunch of tortilla and coffee at TJ e Nueva Apertura Gastrobar in Uterga, which was heaving with drenched pilgrims. Later bumped into Cas from Perth and Erica from California, and we walked the rest of the afternoon together in the rain. Saw the Statue of the Pilgrim in Obanos then took a detour to see the church of Saint Mary of Eunate in the countryside, which was closed. Eventually got in to Puente La Reina at 4pm after a big day, 29.2km.
    Moments of the day included the experience of getting drenched and seeing the hail falling. The big moment was that I have now walked further than ever, exceeding the 85km Old Ghost Road to a new personal best.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Church of Santiago the Great in my road
    What an entrancewayVery ornateSantiagoChurch of the CrucifixThe Queens Bridge

    Day 5 - Puente la Reina

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a hot shower and freshening up, a walk around the pretty medieval town to explore.
    Just up from my BnB was the Church of Santiago the Great, with a huge bell tower meant to guide pilgrims to Puente la Reina. It has a massive doorway and inside is ornately decorated with sculptures and lots of gold.
    I saw the Church of the Crucifix dating back to the Templars, a very simple church with a fantastic doorway and only a large crucifix inside.
    I strolled down to the iconic bridge, which pilgrims have been using for almost a thousand years.
    A nice pilgrims dinner at a local bar afterwards for only 15€ including a Russian salad, roast partridge, a baked cheese flan, and a beer.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    1Poppies along the roadside and wheat fields
    1My reliable friend1Rapeseed in bloomI do love a medieval bridgeNext to the medieval arch in CitauquiThe imposing entry to LorcaMore rolling fields of rapeseedFlowers, blue skies, and fluffy white clouds1At this point I felt like the building - worn outShaun from Cambridge, Laurie from Otorohanga, and Jacki from Te Awamutu

    Day 6 - Here comes the sun

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Puente La Reina to Estella
    22.9km
    After the almighty storms of yesterday the sun came out in force today. Initially it was pleasant but after lunch and late afternoon was uncomfortable in the high 20s.
    Today’s section was from Puente La Reina to Estella.
    Jacki Mylchreest from Te Awamutu spotted me in Citauqui, said hi, we got chatting, and next minute we’d spent the day together. It was lovely walking and chatting with Jacki and her sister Laurie.
    Today we were treated to lovely views across the farmlands, poppies, rapeseed, wheat, and all under blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    The track varied from flat an pleasant, through to some puffing billy uphills, and my poor blisters were at times struggling with some rocks and loose stones.
    By the time I’d got to my alburgue I was well and truly ready for a shower. This alburgue in Estella is the best by far!
    Accumulated distance is now 126.0km
    The moment of the day was the surprise of bumping into Jacki and Laurie, it’s quite remarkable given all the variables.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    1The view from my bedroom window at Estella. The trade off of course is the noise.
    The way out of Estella through the old townThe Bodega Irache wine fountainI had a cold and was losing my voice, therefore for medicinal purposes1Cheers Camino!Wheat fields, with tableland mountains in the background1Aah serenity, a breeze, the birdsong, the views2Even the weeds are prettyA special type of red just for usBlue skies and fluffy white clouds, what could be better1Picture postcard pretty1The steeple of the church of Santa Maria of Los Arcos, with darkening skiesChurch of Santa Maria. Just when you think you've seen all the churches, then another unique one.Santa MariaThe ceiling of Santa MariaThe entrance to the church of Santa MariaMeatballs, yum!Our lounge area in La Casa De Jerusalem

    Day 7 - Spring glory

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Estella to Los Arcos
    21.9km
    It was a funny old day today. The pilgrim grapevine was alive with the news of rain on the trail later in the day. Some folk set off at 2am to beat the rain! Not me, a nice continental breakfast at the best accommodation yet, and then on the road just after 8am.
    It was a lovely morning, blue skies with light cloud, nippy enough for a light jacket, and dead quiet in Estella on a Sunday morning.
    First stop was the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache! I had bought my camping cup specifically for this moment. Not premier vintage, not not vinegar either, in fact quite good table wine. Apparently 100 litres are made available daily, getting there at 9am was perfect.
    The day was mostly unremarkable, in a good way. Track condition generally good, generally not too much hill climbing, some forest walking but mostly through fields of agricultural produce, and we beat the rain.
    But Spain in Spring, wow! The views today were what I was hoping for. Lots of fields of young wheat waving in the breeze, fields of peas, vineyards, and olive orchards. All bordered by wild poppies and rapeseed. Very pretty.
    My accommodation tonight is very interesting, an old Knights Templar hostel where they would accept pilgrims to the holy land, and then provide security along the route. La Casa De Jerusalem is the name. The door is big enough for a horse.
    Accumulated distance 147.9km
    Moment of the day - hours of walking through drop-dead gorgeous spring fields.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler

    Reflections and observations

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Since my last update I’m well on the way of my big walk, already 7 days in. Tonight is in Los Arcos and im staying in an old Knights Templar hostel, where they recievwd people on the way to the holy land and then accompanied them as security.

    When you’re walking long distances every day there’s lots of time to think 😊 so here are some highlights and observations so far.

    Spring in northern Spain. Wow! Everywhere I look is so pretty with the wheat fields, the pea fields, the vineyards, the olive groves, and the amazing rapeseed fields. Bordered by poppies and wild rapeseed. Underneath blue skies and fluffy white clouds. The soundtrack of birdsong completing the experience. Just wow!

    Mario Cart trail walking. An amusing little dance happens every day, similar to Mario Cart racing. Everyone is walking their own pace, mostly staying in different digs, starting and ending at different times, and sometimes walking different distances. And yet I keep bumping into familiar people as we pass each other or spend a rest together, just like Mario Carts with someone new in the lead all the time.

    Joy. We all have different reasons for walking, but the objective stays the same, to reach the end. The shared objective means we’re all on the same page, and as a result everyone is happy and engaging with stories, jokes and anecdotes. It’s just so nice.

    New records. Up till now the furthest I’d ever walked was the 85km Old Ghost Road. Tomorrow I’ll pass 150km. If I was more agile I’d pat myself on the back 😄. Still a very long way to go, and lots could still go wrong (my poor feet with blisters), but every step forward is a new personal best for me.

    Eat the croissants. No one knows what tomorrow holds. The trail is teaching me to enjoy every step I take, I might never be here again, enjoy all the small things and don’t put them off. Breakfasts are usually a pastry with coffee and orange juice (why don’t we do this at home?), which is great. Just eat the croissant and stop worrying.

    Grateful. On night #1 we were all asked to introduce ourselves and say why we were walking. I was proudly the only kiwi (everyone loves us!) and that I was walking as my great adventure. Going around the room there were some sob stories where some people were really doing life tough. I felt a little guilty that our lives and providence were so good and others were not, but at the same time very grateful.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Sunrise, I'd already been walking 45 minutes
    Pea fieldsMemorials to loved ones, some have died while on the trailWe were watching the rain approaching, the temp dropped, and down it cameGood umbrellaOur two friendly police menThey knew how to draw a crowdThe Puente de Piedra entering Logrono, a very pretty city, the largest so far on the trailTired pilgrimsLogrono's version of the shell2Seen better daysThe Cathedral de Santa Maria de la Redonde, as viewed from the lounge window of my BnB1Inside Santa MariaInside Santa MariaMichelangelo's painting "The Calvary"111th century Templar game based on the route to Santiago, similar to snakes and ladders?The end of the game, Santiago de Compostella1Polpo! And a vino.

    Day 8 - The long haul to Logroño

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Los Arcos to Logroño
    30.1km
    I knew it was a long day ahead, and as I woke up early I de used to hit the road. Got walking at 6.30 and beat the sun, but others were too. Relatively easy walking to Torre del Rio for first coffee stop. I’m still battling a cold so coffee plus orange juice.
    The onwards tracks were good for walking, but generally inclining with the occasional steep climb. There was a sobering moment after Torres del Rio with many many cairns and memorials for loved ones, some who had died on the trail.
    Company was good today, Cass from Perth, Melissa from Perth, Ian from Cape Town, and Nora from Finland. Spent time chatting with each.
    The promised rain came in at 10am, my new umbrella held up well, but is amusing to see all the coloured ponchos bobbing along like turtles.
    A really amusing moment in Viana when we were pulled aside by two policemen, only to find that they were on admission to find pilgrims, stamp their pilgrim passports, and give a momento. So good.
    Reached Logroño at about 2.30pm which exceeded expectations. Feet very sore and right shoe has spat the dummy.
    After a bit of drama eventually into the Air BnB with a friendly host, collect my luggage, have a well earned shower, then a bit of exploring. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda is imposing and pretty special, it even has its own little Michelangelo!
    Finished the evening with a fantastic polpo before an early night ahead of another big day.
    Accumulated distance 178.0km
    Moment of the day was being stopped by the policemen, just so good.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    1Peregrinos / pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostella
    The Way out of Logroño1Sunrise on the outskirts of Logroño1Peaceful lake Grajera in the army morning1And so the vineyards start in serious quantity and in every directionChurch of Saint Mary of the Assumption in Navarette, another impressive building1Massive columns, souring vaulted ceilings, and impressive golden altar1Late breakfast. I chose lemon cake for the vitamin CIt was cold, the light wind was colder.Wine anyone?Behind the Monastery of Santa María la Real, the cliffs overlooking town have cavesMonastery of Santa María la Real, developed to look after pilgrimsAfter it was abandoned it was partly ruined by successive tenants, including army, and bullfightsInside the church of Monastery of Santa María la RealThe virgin of the cave. Apparently the founder of the Monastery saw a vision when huntingPretty streets of Najera, abandoned in siesta1I went to by fruit for walking. Tomatoes are in 2 sizes, large and massive

    Day 9 - Into Rioja country

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Logroño to Najera
    30.6km
    Today was always going to be a long walk, so up early and out the door for 6.30 walking. A cold day greeted me with a biting breeze, the temp never got more that 10deg the whole day. Also a threat of rain.
    Logroño was a very nice city, I really enjoyed my time, and leaving before the city got going meant the 1hr long walk out of town was pleasant. Lots of green spaces with play equipment for kids too.
    It was very pleasant walking around the Grajera lake and parklands, even saw a red squirrel out for breakfast.
    We’re definitely in wine country here, famous for the Rioja red wine. It would be rude for me not to try some.
    It was a long haul to the first stop at Navarette as I hadn’t had breakfast yet. Another pretty little town with an impressive cathedral. How does each little town or village support them?
    The big day turned out great. It was a solo walk today, but the cool temps and the flat-ish and well graded path making walking good. I ate up the km and got to Najera at 2pm, the last 1/2hr in a light drizzle.
    Accumulated distance 208.6km
    Moments of the day were viewing the huge expanse of vineyards, probably 20km nonstop, and secondly reading that I have already completed 25% of my journey - wow!    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Grapes grapes grapes. And snow on San Lorenzo in the background.
    In the middle of the rapeseed1A sense of humour by an enterprising snacks vendor, after a 2km long slog up the hillInteresting negative of a pilgrim, at Cirueña1Green, yellow, blue, white, and views that go on and on and on.Happy!The WayThe 1,000 year memorial to Santo Domingo, who founded a hospital, monastery and bridge in the town.Thistles as tall as an adult1Poppies out in forceA pilgrim statue in front of the convent of San FransiscoThe Puente de Santo DomingoThe bell tower next to the cathedral1The bells. I mis-timed, was taking a photo over town at 6:15pm. I almost delaminated from myself.Inside Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada, amazing, and more light than other gothic cathedralsThe tomb of Saint Dominic de la Calzada in the Cathedral2I'm gonna grow my beard2Paella and a red Rioja for dinner

    Day 10 - Views that go on forever

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
    21.4km
    After a nice sleep and breakfast at the best 1 star hotel you can imagine, I left Najera on a very cold morning, 2 or 3deg which needed my puffer jacket.
    The first half of the day was excellent walking conditions passing many more vineyards. The cold was justified, I could see snow on the highest peak in the distant range, which turned out to be San Lorenzo. Mostly solo walking but spent some time chatting to Martin from Melbourne.
    After a long 2km uphill, a picnic lunch at the top. It was chilly in the shade but gorgeous in the sun.
    After a strangely deserted Cirueña, the agriculture changed to wheat, peas and broad beans., with occasional rapeseed. The views were out of this world, like a painting with green as far as the eye could see and beneath perfect blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    Got into Santo Domingo in good time, so checked in, showered, washed clothes, and had time to explore. Checked out the bridge, Cathedral, bell tower, and then paella and Rioja for dinner.
    Accumulated distance 240km
    Moment of the day was coming over the rise and being hit with the views of the fields, breathtaking.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    The Cruz de los Valientes just out of Santo Domingo, back in the expansive wheat fields
    View as we left Grañón, green as far as the eye can seeWalking with Bruce and DougGreen sea of wheat and peasTime for lunch, in Recilla del CaminoI'm amazed at the number of dilapidated buildings, many abandoned, some still with inhabitantsChurch of Nuestra Señora de la Calle in Redecilla del CaminoThe WayBlue skies and fluffy white clouds, I couldn't ask for betterChurch of Santa Maria across the square from meMy accommodation on the leftHome for the night1

    Day 11 - Into Castille y Leon region

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Santo Domingo to Belorado
    24.1km
    Accumulated distance 264.1km
    It was another out of the box gorgeous day, a chilly start, but perfect walking conditions. About 1.5hrs out of Santo Domingo I bumped into mates Bruce from Omokoroa and Doug the Scotsman from Hastings UK. We spent the day together, great chats and lots of laughs. It was slow going though, Bruce managing blisters and Doug managing Achilles. First stop for second breakfast at Grañón, where we bumped into Brendan and Karen from Gold Coast again (lunch yesterday). I finally tried the crushed tomato on toast, yum. The walk out of Grañón was really pretty overlooking the sea of green wheat and pea fields. We said goodbye to Rioja, evidenced by the absence of vineyards, and said hello to Castille y Leon, one of Spain’s largest regions. Walking conditions continued to be good, some long uphills, but generally easily done. Said our goodbyes 5km out from Belorado and got into town later than usual, around 4pm. Belorado is known for its wall murals, but otherwise not too much to see. Had one of the meals of the trip at the restaurant opposite my Alburgue, a 16€ three course meal, with pork cheeks again, yum! The place was busy so shared a table with Paul and Beck from Perth who are cycling the route, a very pleasant evening.
    Moment of the day was the fantastic pork cheeks, a mission for home is to seek them out.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Such a long way to go still
    The El Canto bridge leaving BeloradoEmblematic of the wheat farmersWheat fields in the mist1What! Only 550 to go!And the rain returnsThe Camino route has many old hermitagesEvery town has free drinking waterThe musty forests climbing up to the pine plantations1It bucketed down, with hail againAt least I'm going in the right directionDescending to San Juan de Ortega, just before the heavens opened againSan Juan de OrtegaMonastery of San JuanThe resting place of San Juan de OrtegaPork chops and blood sausage, yum! Especially after a cold wet day.

    Day 12 - A day for the umbrella

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Belorado to San Juan de Ortega
    25.0km
    Accumulated distance 289.1km
    A slowish start today knowing there wasn’t much to do at my destination. I left around 8.30 in search of breakfast. The Camino lore is never stop at the first bar as the second is likely better , and if you’re brave enough then the third might be best. I tried this at the first village, boldly walking past the first bar having seen a sign to the second. It was closed of course so tail between my legs I returned for a very average tomato toast with coffee.
    The first half of the day was the wheat fields of the Tiron river valley, and it was sporadic mist and rain.
    A picnic lunch at Villafranca Montes de Oca, then climb climb up to the pine plantations. It was very enjoyable walking through the fringe forests in the mist before reaching the top.
    The forestry roads were nice easy walking, but the heavens really opened with thunder and hail. My umbrella worked a treat.
    Sporadic rain for the afternoon including the last half hour with thunder as I entered San Juan, population 20, three bars, a monastery, and a church, it felt like a scene from a Clint Eastwood western.
    Very friendly people and great pork chop with blood sausage for dinner.
    Moment of the day was the peaceful walking through the misty forests, with birdsong and the occasional cuckoo call, it was quite magical.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Sunrise over San Juan, with only 20 inhabitants it looks like they're all up
    It was another cold morning, about 7deg at sunriseThe birdsong is always so special at sunrise, I'm especially enjoying the cuckoosBreakfastA steep gut busting climb up the Atapuerca mountain, it was unrelenting for almost 1hr, my poor feetLooking back over the mist covered valleyCruz de AtapuercaMy route into Burgos took me to the river path, prettier than the alternate roadside routeOn and off heavy rain entering BurgosWell deserved. Tinto de verano and complimentary olives. Yum.

    Day 13 - Stage 1, done

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos
    27.2km
    Accumulated distance 316.3km
    Today was always going to be notable, I was finishing stage 1 in Burgos, and I needed to get a wriggle on to collect my new shoes from a depot closing at 1.30pm.
    That meant on the road at 6.30am without breakfast. First opportunity was an hour later at Ages, a pretty little town with ramshackle half-timber homes. Croissant, fresh orange juice and coffee knocked back and I was off again.
    Had a nice chat to Garret from Ireland for a while till we parted ways, I was heading south of the airport and he was going straight on.
    Apart from breakfast, no stops all the way to Burgos.
    To keep amused I named my blisters after high school teachers. Inner right foot near my toe, Arnott, irritating, incessant, a huge distraction.
    Outer right foot, Combrink, looked scary but actually no problem.
    Right heel double blisters, Brown, big, mean, violent, enjoys causing pain.
    Left heel, Faber, not as bad as Brown, memorably painful.
    Once again entering town in a massive downpour for the last 2 hrs, more thunder and hail.
    I made it in time, just, and collected my new walking sandals to an to my hotel for a rest.
    My feet were trashed, spent the afternoon popping blisters, had a good shower, then some badly needed laundry.
    No sightseeing today, tomorrow is a zero walk day so I’ll explore tomorrow.
    I ticked over 300km today, go me.
    Burgos also represents the end of stage 1, which they refer to as the Body stage, and the difficulty reduces, or maybe we’re accustomed to the walking? The moment of the day, despite the wet weather, was walking into Burgos knowing that I had achieved my next big milestone! It felt really good.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler

    Reflections and observations

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I’ve hit a huge milestone finishing the first stage, so more thoughts and reflections.

    Finding the groove
    In the morning creaking joints but just start and all comes right as we get going. A good life lesson. Time flies and 10km goes by in a flash. I would never have expected to be thinking like this a few months ago. A training walk was a planned and deliberate exercise with appropriate logistics, now we just walk.

    So many churches
    Each town or village has one or more medieval church. Usually huge imposing buildings designed to be seen from afar. And inside decorated with ornamentations and gold that defy comprehending. The money, the desire, the drive to develop them back 100s of years ago is just astonishing. At home we turn every infrastructure decision into a war of words nowadays, maybe we need to be more focussed on why we’re doing what we’re doing rather than getting distracted by the details.

    Slow down
    Living life at walking pace is unusual in this day and age. We drive everywhere, all the time, sometimes too fast. Living slow allows us to see, hear, smell everything around us, and really appreciate life.

    Rural Spain
    The small villages and the agricultural countryside has been wonderful, particularly the forested areas. I’ve enjoyed the peacefulness of the walk, the birdsong and the cuckoo call which I’ve not heard before. One particular memory will be walking into a village of population 20, three bars, a monastery, and a church, in a thunderstorm - it felt like a scene from a Clint Eastwood western.

    Love the feet
    My shoe choice didn’t work out, so heaps of blisters. To keep amused I named my blisters after high school teachers. Inner right foot near my toe, Arnott - irritating, incessant, an unnecessarily distraction. Outer right foot, Combrink - looked scary but actually just fine. Right heel double blisters, Brown - big, mean, violent, enjoys causing pain. Left heel double blisters, Faber - not as bad as Brown, but memorably painful. I bought new sandals, hopefully better from now on.

    Stage 1, done
    After 9 days I passed 200km, which kind of snuck up on me. Then at 12 days I was over 300km. The early days of the walk get consumed by the logistics of the day - strapping up everything that’s hurting, the start time, selected route, what to consider along the way, what to organise for the destination. Meantime km keep on accumulating, and next minute I’ve hit a milestone. Burgos is the end of stage 1, which they refer to as the Body stage, and the difficulty reduces, or maybe we’re accustomed to the walking? I’ve now walked over 300km, go me, who would have thought a year or so ago? It feels good.

    Life is good.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Plaza Mator on an early Saturday evening, with the spires of the cathedral in the background
    2Plaza MayorPlaza Rey San Fernando, outside the cathedral1Restaurante Mesón Los Herreros filling up1A local favourite is the blood sausage, in this case a pintxo, La Morcilla de BurgosSepia a la Plancha, fried squidI got finished just it time, we were packed in tight1Evening view of the cathedral2How I feel2Arco de Santa Maria, one of the 12 medieval city gatesAlong the riverside promenade, lots of old and new statues in Burgos1El Cid, a local military hero born nearby in 10402What's new?2When in Spain... breakfast of churros, hot chocolate for dipping, and coffeeRiverside promenade1Riverside promenadeRiverside promenade1Drumming band, starting them young (back right)

    Day 13.0 - Burgos

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Rest day! A zero km day in Burgos so an opportunity to look around and enjoy the city and the break.
    Also an opportunity to test my new walking sandals before the next leg of the walk.
    Saturday night was lively, some rain but it didn’t put the locals off, including a free live concert outside the Museum of Human Evolution.
    I had a fantastic tapas meal out in a heaving bar, such a great vibe, I don’t know how the wait staff keep on top of charging with all the individual orders and meals.
    Burgos really is nice, it still has a sense of its old royal past, but lots of young people out enjoying themselves.
    Next morning was a churros with hot chocolate for breakfast before mass.
    Took a walk down the pedestrian promenade next to the river, saw a classical orchestra setting up for a free concert, but just round the corner was a marching drumming band popular with the locals.
    Burgos is very nice.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Museum of Human Evolution
    Inside the museum, very light and freshThey also displayed recreated vegetation from the various eras when humans were living hereA clever recreation of rock art, using projectors onto suspended panels made to look like rock faceBones recovered locally400,000 year old pre-Neanderthal. They called him Miguelon.Lucy, between 3.8 and 2.8M years old, from east AfricaHomo Erectus, from about 1.6M years agoHomo Sapiens, from about 150,000 years ago.Homo SapiensImitation archeological dig

    Day 13.0 - Museum of Human Evolution

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Yesterday I walked over the Atapuerca mountain, a limestone region which it turns out has been inhabited for 100s of thousands of years by early humans. Burgos has an amazing museum of human evolution, possibly the best museum I have visited in terms of story telling and clarity of the displays.
    I didn’t take heaps of photos, but was really interested in the early human history, and briefly skipped over the progress into human technology.
    The story behind how the limestone caves fill up with debris over long periods of time, therefore preserving history, and how the ancient humans used these caves for trapping animals to kill, was very interesting.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    First stop, morning mass in the Chapel of St Tecla
    The amazing Chapel of St TeclaAt the entrance the view up the nave is blocked, behind which is the choirLooking at the centre of the cathedral beneath the domeLooking up into the 16th C domeTomb of El Cid Campeador beneath the dome, and in front of the main part of the cathedral and altarMain altarpiece with St Mary Major in silverThe 16th C choir made up of over 100 stalls for ministers and singersThe Chapel of St HenryThe. Chapel of the Presentation...with fantastic star shaped roofLovely rose window, and top right is the Papamoscas who opens his mouth when the bells tollChapel of the Conception and magnificent altarpieceAltarpiece detailThe Golden Staircase, with a silver processional floatChapel of the Constance's, with three altarpiecesThe main SacistryLovely stained glass windows of the cloisterThe Coffer of El Cid, purported to hold gold to pay his Jewish supporters, but was filled with sand

    Day 13.0 - St Mary of Burgos Cathedral

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Burgos Cathedral is revered in Spain as one of the finest gothic cathedrals, possibly in all of Europe. I decided to attend 10.30 morning mass held in the Chapel of St Tecla, which was a new experience. I don’t know the Catholic traditions and I can’t speak Spanish, but other than that it was great.
    The cathedral is huge, but what surprised me was the number of chapels in the building, basically all the sides had individual chapels along both naves as well behind the main altar, and each dedicated to a different saint, or some remembrance. Fascinating.
    I spent a good few hours exploring, most memorable was the main altar in the middle of the church, the ornamentation and detail just not describable.
    The moment of the day was undoubtedly experiencing the morning mass.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Night out on the town on my last evening. Tried a fusion tapas bar.
    Mixed gyozas and a vermouth, both very yumTuna tataki with a sauce that really piqued the taste budsEveryone loves pork bellyMore Burgos statuesStatues, an old couple just chillingBurgos cathedral on a perfect morningBreakfast. I'm liking tomato toast. I'm loving bombon - espresso, condensed milk, creamI love these trees, they've been everywhere so farArcos de Castilfalé in the park along the riversideThe WaySolitude in the wheat fields, and in the sun which was niceWind turbines for almost a full 360 degreesWind turbinesIt's Spanish food if it Spanish spelling isn't it? This is a hamburguesa.Wry pleasant walking conditions allowing my feet to recover.Ty e last section was parallel ty e motorway, not ideal but the going was good to eat up the kmWaving wheat, wry peaceful to watch

    Day 14 - The road less traveled

    May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Burgos to Estapar
    26.1km
    Accumulated distance 342.4km
    It was a late start this morning. I’d forgotten to get my pilgrim passport stamped yesterday so wait until the cathedral opened at 9.30am. It gave me time to relax, have a decent breakfast, then hit the road. It was nice to see Burgos under nice sunshine, but a cold 7deg start.
    Today was going to be tricky with careful navigation. My accommodation is off the beaten track so I don’t have to e luxury of following the Camino route. It was going to be a google day.
    The first hour out of town was nice, following the river through parkland with trees and statues, very pleasant.
    My first challenge leaving the established route was blocked by roadworks. Got turned around a bit but worked my way through to the country roads. Nice walking conditions in my new sandals, so far so good and comfy soles over the rocks and stones.
    Relatively uneventful day, and my first day being absolutely solo, not another person to be seen walking all day. Surprisingly pleasant to be on my own.
    Passed through a couple of villages, also mostly deserted, and also passed another failed housing development outside Buniel, another casualty of the 2008 crash.
    Lunch stop at a roadside service centre then the last few hours to my hotel in Estapar.
    The moment of the day was more like an extended period of time alone, experiencing the silence, waving wheat fields, and the enormous amount of wind turbines.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Sunrise over the wheat fields, still a chilly 8 deg
    "Private hunting ground" which I assume means the land owner can shoot rabbits, partridges, etcFirst signs of the Meseta flatlands, the breadbasket of SpainViews forever1After 4 hours of walking I was looking forward to lunch in HontanasThe lady said her tortillas were best, she wasn't wrong, the chorizo tortilla was yumAlmost 450km to goNice walking tracks today, although a bit claggy with mud in placesLast man standing1The ruins of the Convent of San Antón, just outside Castrojirez21An emblem of the Meseta in spring, poppies growing in the wheat. Quite zingy bread anyone?Santa Maria del Manzano, at the entrance to CastrojirezMy digs, Hotel Jacobus1

    Day 15 - Into the Meseta

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Estapar to Castrojirez
    26.2km
    Accumulated distance 368.6km
    It was drizzling when I left Estapar, a few hours of navigation ahead of me to get back to the Camino route. Some of the route was on roads which had pros and cons, good to make up time, but a hard surface and have to watch for cars.
    The morning views were nice, and I started getting a sense that I was entering the Meseta with the flatter landscape, big sky views, and huge wheat fields.
    It took about 3 hrs to get back onto the Camino route and finally saw some people again.
    Nice break and lunch in Hontanas, then back onto the path again. Apart from the sticky mud, the walking was generally good underfoot, with some unevenness that hurt my blisters and gave me a new one.
    Bumped into Brendan and Karen again at the ruins of the Convent of San Antón, they are also in Castrojirez tonight.
    Nice looking hotel, I rather enjoyed the relaxation rather than exploring town.
    Moment of the day was just before Castrojirez where I passed a wheat field dotted with red poppy heads, it looked great.    Read more

  • ShaunLCCamino de Santiago - May 2025Traveler
    Leaving Castrojirez, still ticking off the km
    Looking back to Castrojirez with a misty veil over townView from the top of Alto de Monstelares back to CastrojirezView from the top of Alto de Monstelares back to CastrojirezA few memorial stones dotted around the top of Alto de MonstelaresView from the top of Alto de Monstelares forward over the MesetaView from the top of Alto de Monstelares forward over the Meseta1Still moving forward1The Puente FiteroIn Itero de la Vega, just before my picnic lunchThose km still keep coming downClouds building for the thunder and rain later1Entering Boadilla del CaminoThe church of Santa Maria1My bedroom window view, over Santa Maria. There were at least 4 stork families on the roof.

    Day 16 - Views forever

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C

    Castrojirez to Boadilla del Camino
    19.8km
    Accumulated distance 388.4km
    A casual time out the door of the very Italian-esque Jacobus hotel after breakfast. Unsure what the weather holds, about 8deg to start and a forecast for rain.
    We continue on good walking tracks, nicely graded and in good condition but proud standing stones still keep finding my blisters. I had a new blister develop on the outside of my left foot with my new sandals yesterday, I called her Gullston - came out of nowhere, nasty, and angry.
    First challenge of the day about an hr out of town, a very steep climb up to the Mirador del Alto de Monstelares, about 140m elevation gain. It was hard work but quite satisfying overtaking the cyclist who had passed me earlier in the valley. The views from the top were breathtaking, back to town with low lying cloud and mist, and forwards over the Meseta where it felt like we could see forever.
    I bumped into Brendan and Karen coming down the other side and we spent the rest of the morning together.
    The rest of the day was continuing through the expansive wheat fields with lots of great views.
    Picnic lunch stop in Itero de la Vega where I parted with my walking buddies.
    The rest of the route was good going making good time to get into Boadilla del Camino by 2.30 to check into the hotel and a good few hours ahead of the thunder and rain.
    Moment of the day was powering past the walking cyclist up Alto de Monstelares, and the few times coming over a little rise to a new view opening up over the fields.    Read more

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