Bangkok Chinatown

When I lived in Bangkok, I ventured into Chinatown a number of times. Getting there was always daunting, though, because of the traffic. I went for Indian food a couple of times (there is an Indian enclave in Chinatown), and on other jaunts I ate some amazing Thai Chinese-style seafood, including Bangkok's much vaunted sharks fin soup. Even though I readily admit to liking sharks fin soup, I haven't had it since 1995.

Emerging from the subway station, I once again marveled at how efficient transport has become. The Wat Mangkon station deposited me right smack on Charoen Krung Road, with the famous Yaowarat Road a short walk away. Despite some obvious changes, including a small mall and some pockets of gentrification, much of Chinatown hadn't changed - it was still crowded, chaotic, and full of life. I walked all the streets and simply took in the sights and smells, including many foods I had in my childhood. I kept an ear out for Teochew, a southern dialect that is technically my mother tongue although I don't speak it. Many Thai Chinese are descended from the same region and the older generation still speaks it. I watched amused as pedestrians, push carts, and motorcycles wended around one another through narrow alleyways flanked by stalls on both sides.

On a whim, I decided to get a haircut at an old school barber. Although I am quite bald, I ironically have to get haircuts more frequently nowadays because I look like a clown when it grows out. Getting a haircut in a foreign land is also an interesting experience. The elderly Thai Chinese barber was very meticulous. In the next chair, another barber and a manicurist were giving the full works to a Thai Chinese man who appeared to be in total bliss. I had an enjoyable conversation with them in a mix of English, Thai, and Teochew.

After the haircut, I wandered around a little more, pondering whether to go to Thaisamai which, incidentally, is located on the same row of shophouses as Jay Fai. I decided against it because the subway didn't go near there and getting back to my hotel would no longer be straightforward without the klong taxi running. Instead, I sought out a sidewalk seafood restaurant I had dined at previously. Back when I lived in Bangkok, this street intersection was a scene of great chaos and fun. On one corner, there is T&K Seafood with their green shirts. Opposite them was Lek & Rut Seafood with their red shirts. The tables and chairs would spill onto the sidewalk and the two rivals would try to outdo the other. I remember sitting on the makeshift tables and chairs scarfing down grilled seafood with cars passing a few feet away and pedestrians wending their way between the tables. This time, the scene was far more sedate. There were a couple of people trying to get you to patronize their stalls, but it was nowhere near the old level of chaos. I chose the red shirts (Lek & Rut) and I had an amazing prawn in yellow curry sauce. After dinner, I walked around some more and then made my way back to my hotel.
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