Get Thee To a Nunnery...

Both the Lonely Planet and Travelfish recommend a convent named Susteran St. Maria Berdukacita (commonly known as MBC) as the best budget accommodation in Ruteng. I really wanted to stay there, and I was stoked when the staff at Komodo Boutique Hotel called on my behalf and snagged a room for me. Even the staff couldn't believe it, as the convent is often fully booked. I had to stifle the giggles when I learned that the nun who took care of my booking at MBC was named Sister Ophelia. I kept thinking of Hamlet telling poor, doomed Ophelia: "Get Thee To a Nunnery".

We rolled in to Ruteng at 1pm not long after leaving the spiderweb rice fields, and John deposited me at MBC. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was accosted by a gaggle of teenagers. They explained that they were from a vocational high school and they were being trained as tourist guides. They wanted to spend time with me, show me around, and practice their English. John didn't shoo them away, so I guessed they were legit. I said my goodbyes to John and Pierre and then I went to check in. The guides-in-training waited for me while I checked in, and then pounced on me again as I walked out. There were two boys and four girls. They agreed to walk with me to Agape Cafe where I planned to have lunch.

It took a bit of questioning, but during the 15 minute walk to Agape Cafe, I established that these students were 17 years old and that their high school has a three year vocational track to train them as either hotel employees or as guides. During these three years, those on the guide track must make 1,300 contacts with tourists. It seems quite a tall order considering Ruteng isn't a major tourist town. Heck, I was even surprised there was a tourism school there. Anyway, while walking, Sepen, one of the two boys who appeared to be the ringleader, said that they would be happy to accompany me to the Hobbit Cave at Liang Bua. I accepted their offer.

When we reached Agape Cafe, I went inside to eat. The girls hung out outside while the two boys - Sepen and Semple - went out to procure a bemo to take us to Liang Bua. Entering Agape Cafe, I was relieved to see John and Pierre. John confirmed that these kids were legit, that I should pay no more than 150,000rp - which I thought was a little steep - to charter the bemo, and that I should not give money to the kids (I wasn't planning to but I did buy water and snacks for them).

After I ate my lunch, I walked out to find that the girls had grown in number from four to seven. I chatted with them a little, then they all produced their log books for me to sign, and they scattered when the bemo turned up. I guess this meant I was only going to Liang Bua with the two boys. In America, I would never have agreed to do anything like this for fear of liability, but hey, this is Indonesia.

My visit to Liang Bua is covered in the next installment.

In the late afternoon, I returned to MBC to hear nuns singing. How very Sound of Music this was. The room was basic but clean, water was supplied, as was breakfast. The grounds were beautiful and well kept. This place has its quirks though. Breakfast ends at 7.30am. Check out is before 9am. The front gate is locked at 9pm. The hot water was spotty, as was wifi. But hey, for 200,000 rupiah this is the best deal in town (the other budget hotel I spotted looked pretty grotty). There were several visiting clergymen in the other rooms, along with a few other travelers.

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