• Siewch

Singapore & Tokyo | Sept 2025

Family visit + my 19th layover in Tokyo. Read more
  • Trip start
    August 30, 2025

    Honolulu to Tokyo Narita

    August 30 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Japan Airlines JL783 | HNL/NRT
    Economy Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA616J
    STD/1335 | ATA/1633+1
    Sakura Lounge

    I was originally booked to depart a day earlier via Haneda, but I got advance notice from JAL that my flight had been delayed a day due to crew scheduling; I presumed this is because a pilot on layover was unable to operate the flight and they had to fly one in and give them minimum rest before they could operate. I contacted JAL and asked to be rerouted via Narita as this flight would get me in to Singapore earlier and I can have a few hours sleep after arriving at 1am on Monday.

    When I arrived at the Sakura Lounge, I asked the lounge attendant about compensation for the delay. After confirming I did not go to the airport yesterday, she requested authorization before handing me $90 cash to cover meals and incidentals. A few days later, I discovered that the delay occurred because one of the pilots rostered to operate to Nagoya had drunk three beers. This caused a ripple effect.

    The flight itself was pleasant. I was surprised to learn that Na, the flight attendant serving my aisle, is Bangkok-based. We exchanged plesantries in Thai. I don't think I have enountered any flight attendants based outside Japan on the Japan-Hawaii runs. During the flight, I heard her conversing in Thai with another flight attendant, Ben, who later approached me inflight and presented me with an A350 model.
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  • Tokyo Narita to Singapore

    August 31 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Japan Airlines JL711 | NRT/SIN
    Economy Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA616J
    STD/1839 | ATA/0106+1
    Sakura First Class Lounge

    I only had a short layover in NRT. To my surprise, they have done away with security checks for transiting passengers (or at least those from my flight) which was a welcome change. I made a beeline for the Sakura First Class Lounge, where I had a shower and a quick meal of sushi and ramen before I made my way back to Gate 84 to fly to SIN on the same aircraft.Read more

  • United Buddy Bears at Gardens By The Bay

    September 3 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    The United Buddy Bears is a traveling exhibition of 150 bear statues hand painted by artists from different countries. Originating in Berlin in 2002, this exhibit aims to foster intercultural understanding, religious and racial tolerance, and world peace. In Singapore, the bears are on display at the iconic Supertree Grove at the Gardens By The Bay until October. I spent some time enjoying the art, paying special attention to the countries I have lived in or are otherwise meaningful to me personally.Read more

  • National Museum of Singapore

    September 3 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    From Gardens By The Bay, I took a train to Bencoolen Station and then walked a short distance to the National Museum of Singapore.

    At the museum, visitors start from the top floor, where they have to walk through a series of multimedia exhibits, including one showing images from various periods in 20th century Singapore, another showing the legend of Sang Nila Utama (the original founder of Singpore), and another about an old Malay legend describing a giant crab whose movement causes the tides. The immersive spaces didn't come with much explanation, and it was a little overwhelming going from one dark space to another in between the brightly lit immersive exhibits. I was also asked to wear a wristband for the interactive exhibits, but the person who gave it to me could not explain what it was for.

    The rest of the exhibits were informative. They ranged from pre-colonial, to colonial, to World War II, to independence and finally to modern Singapore. I appreciated the fact that the exhibits did not shy away from pre-colonial history. When I was growing up, the narrative was always that the British founded Singapore and developed it from a fishing village into a major trading post, whereas history and archeology indicate that Singapore had already been a thriving port for centures before the British arrived.

    In that same vein, a highlight for me was the remnants of the Singapore Stone, which was once part of a large sandstone slab found at the mouth of the Singapore River with inscriptions from between the 10th and 13th centuries. Sadly, the British blew the rock up to enlarge the entrance to the river. Three remnants were sent to Calcutta for analysis, but only one made its way back to Singapore; the other two are presumed lost forever. The script on the rock was never properly translated, but archeologists suspect it may point to Singapore being a key port in the Majapahit Empire in the 10th century.
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  • Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

    September 4 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I usually climb Bukit Timah Hill at least once each trip, but because it rained pretty much every day on this trip, I limited myself to short trips to the Singapore Granite Quarry behind Rail Mall as it is easier to beat a quick retreat and shelter there in case of rain. As an added bonus, I sometimes treat myself to a nice snack when I am at the Rail Mall.Read more

  • Little India

    September 5 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    It rained heavily on Friday morning, and so I abandoned my plans to hike, After lunch, I headed out to Little India to check out the Indian Heritage Center. Before I entered the museum, I took a quick gander around the surrounding side streets. The highlight of the area was the Atlas Obscura-listed house of Tan Teng Niah, a Chinese businessman from the early 1900s. The house has been preserved and repainted with bright colors.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/house-of-ta…
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  • Indian Heritage Center

    September 5 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    The Indian Heritage Center tells the story of the people who settled in Singapore from various parts of India. The earliest Indians were mostly convicts brought in from British India to help build the early colonial infrastructure. These early settlers were soon joined by traders, merchants, and later on by educated professionals. Prominent Indian Singaporeans were also featured.

    I especially liked that there were artifacts from pre-colonial Southeast Asia to show how India influenced culture and religion in Southeast Asia long before European contact. The main highlight for me, however, was a VR booth where I put on VR goggles to watch an Indian dance performance. The VR images were very realistic and I even flinched a couple of times when one of the dancers popped up right in "front" of me.
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  • Kampong Glam

    September 5 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    From Little India, I took a short bus ride over to the traditional Arab and Muslim quarter. I started out at Haji Lane, which had been converted into a walking street with restaurants, shops, and murals. I was stoked to see what I assume to be a gay-owned business selling clothes and some knick knacks.

    Apart from Haji Lane, I explored Arab Street which runs parallel to it, along with other side streets around the Sultan Mosque. I noticed a lot of Turkish and Lebanese businesses in the area directly in front of the mosque.
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  • Chinatown and Surrounding Areas

    September 6 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    On Saturday afternoon, I set off for Chinatown armed with a map of murals to track down. This entry records some of the sights I saw along the way; the mural photos are in a separate entry.

    I started my explorations at Chinatown Station. The first murals I looked for were between Chinatown Station and South Bridge Road to the east. At South Bridge Road, I turned north to explore some murals. Along the way, I saw two Atlas Obscura-listed places of worship - Sri Mariammam Temple, and Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. I then backtracked and made my way south to Ann Siang Hill. After that, I went southwest towards the Duxton Hill area, before turning heading west to Craig Road and north to Neil Road. From Neil Road, I turned north towards Keong Saik Road before ending my explorations at the Majestic Hotel which features another Atlas Obscura - a plaque site called the Place of Refuge. Unfortunately, I could not make sense of what the plaque was about, and the Atlas Obscura writeup also lacked context.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/buddha-toot…
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sri-mariamm…
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/place-of-re…

    After my explorations, I took the MRT from Outram Station back to my mother's condo where I had a nice refreshing dip in the pool to cool off.

    This was a fun outing and I got to explore an area I normally wouldn't have explored on foot. Chinatown and its surrounding area has been spruced up nicely, but, sadly, the lived-in authenticity is now gone. I much preferred Little India which I visited yesterday because it still feels lived in.

    I wish I had thought to download mural maps of Little India and Kampong Glam, as that would have given additional structure to my wanderings yesterday. I intend to do more mural hunting in those districts when I return to Singapore in February next year.
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  • Chinatown Mural Hunting

    September 6 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    This entry features the murals I found along my walking route through Chinatown, Ann Siang Hill, and Duxton Hill. Many of them were painted by my schoolmate Yip Yew Chong who grew up on Sago Street in the heart of Chinatown.

    Overall, this was a fun activity as I felt as if I was on a treasure hunt. I’m looking forward to mural hunting in other gentrifying parts of Singapore when I return next February.
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  • Yokohama Chinatown

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    After clearing immigration and customs, I made my way to the coin lockers at the arrivals level, only to discover that they were all occupied. The lockers on the left side of the departure hall were also fully occupied. I made my way to the last cluster of lockers on the other side of the departure and breathed a sigh of relief when there were lockers available.

    With my larger bag safely stowed away, I made my way to the Keikyu line and took a train to Yokohama Station. From there, I took the local Minatomirai line to its sixth and last station and exited at Yokohama Chinatown in time for lunch.

    Yokohama Chinatown is a street food paradise, and I spent lunchtime exploring the various stalls. Sadly, there actually wasn't much variety as the stalls were mostly selling variations of the same street snacks. I ate fried chicken, a seafood dumpling, and a large meat bao. Each of the stalls I patronised also had a designated area to stand/sit and eat, which was most welcome as eating while walking is considered rude in Japan. These morsels, chased with a soft serve and a pocari sweat, really hit the spot.

    Apart from the street snacks, I looked for the various gates around Chinatown, and I just enjoyed the vibe of being in a crowd of likeminded people looking for good eats in tight alleyways. Interestingly, only one vendor addressed me in Mandarin; I expected more given the number of Chinese tourists visiting Japan nowadays.
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  • Yamashita Park

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After eating my fill of street snacks, I sought out two Atlas Obscura sights before making my way to Yamashita Park. My first stop was a monument commemorating the site of the former home of Dr. James Curtis Hepburn, a medical missionary who published the first Japanese-English dictionary. He also translated the Bible into Japanese.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/dr-hepburns…

    One block away from Dr Hepburn's residence was the Marine Tower which, unfortunately, was closed that day. I would have loved to go up the tower to get a bird's eye view of Yokohama. From there, I walked to a second Atlas Obscura site - the Rising Sun revolving door, which was the first of its kind in Japan.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/rising-sun-…

    My initial explorations done, I walked to Yamashita Park and enjoyed expansive views of the seafront. But, I wasn't done with my Atlas Obscura explorations, as the park itself featured a drinking fountain built by the government of India in memory of Indian citizens killed in the 1923 earthquake.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/indian-drin…
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  • More Waterfront Wanderings

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    From Yamashita Park, I set off on a northwesterly direction along the seafront. This walking route took me along a contiguous path that connected a series of parks and public spaces, starting with Zou-no-hana Park, the Red Brick Warehouse, Akarenga Park, the Yokohama Convention Center, and finally Rinko Park.

    The first major sight I saw was the Atlas Obscura-listed Yokohama Customs Headquarters. On a future visit, I may want to visit the customs museum in that building. I also understand there is a museum of Japanese emigration in the vicinity.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/yokohama-cu…

    After the Customs Headquarters, my next stop was the Red Brick Warehouses, which was once used in support of the city's shipping industry. Today, they have been preserved as a shopping and dining hub. I wasn't terribly interested in the shops, but I did duck in briefly to escape the heat.

    My final stop on this leg was the Atlas-Obscura listed Shake Hands With Lima-Chan statue in Rinko Park. Built to commemorate Japanese emigration to Peru, this statue has a twin in Lima. Next to this statue was another cool sculpture called Fruits Tree, featuring various fruits and vegetables shaped like a tree.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/shake-hands…

    After enjoying the statues, I headed to the Cup Noodles Museum (see next entry).
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  • Cup Noodle Museum

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    My final stop of the day was the Cup Noodles Museum, which documents the invention and spread of cup noodles. Cup noodles are instant noodles that can be cooked by simply adding hot water to the container the noodles are in, as opposed to instant noodles which need to be taken out of their packaging and boiled in a pot of water.

    After paying my 500 yen entry, I went to the second floor of the museum to view a dizzying array of cup and instant noodles organized by brand (rows) and year (columns). This display took up two of the three walls in the room. Almost all the noodles in this display were Japanese brands. The third wall displayed a wider variety of cup and instant noodles, including some non-Japanese brands. I kept an eye out for Maggi Mee, a beloved brand of instant noodles from my childhood, and I was stoked to see two of their ubiquitous yellow packets on display.

    After viewing the noodles, I went into a theater to watch a short film about Momofuku Ando, a Taiwan-born entrepreneur who is credited with inventing instand noodles. The film covered his personal history, how he came to invent instant noodles at age 48 after a string of business failures, and how he went on to invent cup noodles in his 60s, right down to figuring out how the noodles should be packed in the cup to ensure quick and even cooking by simply adding hot water. Mr Ando was active until his 90s; he invented noodles that could be consumed in zero gravity not long before his death in 2007.

    After viewing the film, I viewed various enhibits on detailing Ando's noodle inventions. I then went to the third floor which had an interactive make your own cup noodles activity. This activity costs 500 yen more, and I decided not to participate because it requires working in pairs. After that, I went to the viewing platform on the fourth floor before exiting the museum.

    After exiting the museum, I considered looking for another two Atlas Obscura sites, but the heat and jetlag was starting to hit me, and my left knee hurt - while looking for coin lockers at Haneda that morning, an Italian preteen charged at me with a baggage cart she was ill-equipped to control, and I exacerbated an old injury when I had to sidestep her. So, I decided to make my way to the nearby Minatomirai station to go to Yokohama Station and onwards to Haneda. On my way to the station, I wandered through an amusement park and treated myself to a soft serve ice cream.
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  • Tokyo Haneda to Honolulu

    September 8 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    Japan Airlines JL72 | HND/HNL
    Business Class
    Boeing 787-9 | JA874J
    ATD/2156 | ATA/1029
    Sakura First Class Lounge

    I arrived at Haneda Terminal 3 around 6pm and retrieved my bag from the coin locker before making my way through immigration and onwards to the Sakura First Class Lounge. My first priority was to take a shower. It had been a hot and sweaty layover and the refreshing shower was most welcome. After that, I snacked on sushi and somen and worked on this blog before heading to the gate to board my flight home.Read more

    Trip end
    September 8, 2025