• Steve Broyles

Baja Haha XXX

San Diego to Cabo San Lucas, BCS on the Tao Neutrino Okumaya devam et
  • Gezinin başlangıcı
    3 Kasım 2024

    Rain Is Auspicious Right?

    3 Kasım 2024, Amerika Birleşik Devletleri ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We slept soundly to the pitter patter of gentle rain, bobbing comfortably in the calm anchorage protected by Shelter Island.

    I forget how much I love San Diego until I come back yet nearly every time I come back I am happily reminded.Okumaya devam et

  • And They're Off!

    4 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    I'd love to have been a fly on the mast of every vessel doing last-hour prep for the official start. No sailboat is ever "completely ready" for departure.

    We were pretty solid. Taped up a few things that were flappy or pokey, loaded up the dingy, stowed more than a few food items in a way that will surely be revised, and away we went!

    Our arrival at the starting line was slightly delayed while about 30% of the fleet would have been penalized for a false-start.

    But seeing as how this isn't a race and only a precious few give any shits whatsoever about who "wins"... It was an excellent start by everyone.

    We are ripping along at near our maximum speed ("hull speed" of about 6.5 kts) under ~9 kts of wind, spinnaker filled in all its glory under blue skies with gentle seas.... This is the sort of sailing for which one lusts while land-bound. My heart and smile are full, too.

    I'm greatly impressed at how well I can work via satellite. It takes some willpower to sit below-deck on a glorious day but being able to both enjoy the sea and also be productive at work sets a stage for me to enjoy future extremely-remote work opportunities that suit my wanderlust very nicely.

    Day 1 is about half done and so far: 5 stars; strongly recommended.

    I didn't take pics, but remind me to share my thoughts on showering while underway. Exciting, for sure.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Porpoise Escort

    4 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    No matter how many times in my life I see a cavorting hoard of cetaceans mob the bow of a sailboat, I am absolutely certain that it will tickle a deep part of my mammalian soul that makes my grin widen, my heartbeat skip, and my inner child do a little happy dance.Okumaya devam et

  • Day 1 Sunset

    4 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    We left San Diego with excellent conditions and sailed under full asymmetrical spinnaker nearly due south until well after a spectacular sunset.

    After dark we opted for white sails - easier to manage single-handed in the wee hour watches.Okumaya devam et

  • Night Watch

    5 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I pulled the easy shifts tonight, midnight-0200 and 0600-0800 (which is my normal wake-up time anyway).

    So the only challenge will be falling asleep at 2100ish so I get some rest before midnight. Should be easy after my 2000-2200 and 0200-0400 watches last night as I just didn't rest very well in between.

    I did, however, really enjoy watching our bioluminescent wake and seeing the milky way soaring overhead like the spectacular nocturnal show that it is.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Day 3? Time is getting blurry

    6 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    The day began a little cloudy and no little bit roly-poly as the long period swell was whackin' us from the aft starboard quarter and we were moving along under light motor... An uncomfortable combo in a small sailboat.

    Adding some sail helped speed us up and smooth us out, making everyone happier.

    The day slipped by gently with mostly calm seas, light winds, minor repairs, snacks, a few loat fish, and wrestling with the garmin chartplotter. As one crewmember said: this interface is significantly less user friendly than one would hope.

    Fortunately, due to the wonders of satellite communication, we can make good quality phone calls to customer service, download updates, browse forums, etc The problem remains unsolved (but is less pooched than it was!)

    The internet service also means I can work while enjoying this grand adventure. That's a bit of a mixed blessing in that it takes my mind away from the simple joy of being at sea, but it also lets me take a two week adventure with only a week of vacation time. I'm in favor.

    And of course, I can update this blog. So there's that.
    Okumaya devam et

  • So Close

    6 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Almost got it!

    Next one...

    We didn't plan ahead very well w/re to gear.
    I absolve myself.... I don't know squat about line fishing

  • Shot My First Yellowfin (ahi) Tuna!

    6 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Seeing as how we don't have a gaff, I violated the important safety rule of "never load a speargun dry" and the even more important "never ever shoot a speargun dry" .

    In the end, shooting a fish is an excellent way to both pull it out of the water and also deliver a fast and clean coup de grace.

    And I'll confess that it was fun, too.

    I didn't get any pics of the complete mess we made filleting the fresh fish on deck. It was many OSHA violations, I'm sure. We got more fresh Ahi than three of us have been able to eat in two meals.

    Donn added the 1st batch of tuna to our curried veggies dinner and Zack made absolutely fabtastic wasabi poké for lunch.

    I never thought I'd take a YFT with a 90cm. Maybe next time I'll jump in and take the shot.... But perhaps not in a 3-4 kt current, at night, several dozen miles offshore (I think we were 50-80 miles off at the time). There are limits to my "it seemed like a good idea at the time" decision-making.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Bumps In The Night

    7 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    From a deep sleep I heard "I think we need to go to the estate sale for this wind"

    Which made exactly no sense.

    Because what was said was: "I think we need to go to the stay sail for this wind" and when that filtered through my sleep deprived noggin I realized that I was about to start a 'fun' watch.

    Over the next two hours the wind built to over 30knots (gusts) but a sustained 22. That doesn't feel so windy on a kiteboard on flat water but 75 miles out (we hadn't seen land in 20 hours) with long rollers clashing with big wind waves, at night, the best comparison I can make is that it feels a little bit like driving a car in avery large empty parking lot.... With your eyes closed on the accelerator pedal stuck at about 50% (and no brakes).

    Safe? Almost certainly.
    I mean.... We made it. So 100% success rate!

    The night was long and bumpy. Some boats had scares. The coast guard was called but other private boats in the fleet took care of them.

    The sun rose on a rough but scenic morning, backlit islands, golden haze, and a fresh breeze carried us onward.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Bahia Tortugas

    7–9 Kas 2024, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    After a rugged night we were excited to arrive at Bahia Tortugas, the 1st port of call on the Baja Haha and the last place to buy fuel until we reach Cabo San Lucas.

    This sleepy fishing town really puts on a party for the Haha every year (I'm told) and the friendly locals were happy to relieve us of our dollars in exchange for diesel (about $8/gal), tacos (about $3/ea) and beer (dealer's choice: I paid $5 and $3 at the same bar within an hour, for the same beer).

    One could feel taken advantage of, buy I think that spreading some currency from the wealthy to those struggling is a fair way for things to go. Purified water, for instance, was very reasonably priced at $1 for five gallons. And the mini-tienda sold canned foods at perfectly normal prices. It's just luxury/optional/indulgences that seem to get the gringo mark-up.

    Prices aside- folks were friendly. Even the dogs wandering the streets were happy to get a scritch or two. The Haha org puts on a giant baseball game each year that is optimized for kids hitting balls- much/most of the town turns out and everyone seemed happy. We donated quite a few bats/balls/gloves as well as a few thousand dollars to help pay for children's lunches.

    The whole fleet also worked together to get everyone's boats ship-shape for the next leg of our journey, and we had a fun beach party - food, libations, music, tug of war, and general "feels good to walk on dry land" sorta stuff.

    A highlight for me was tasting some local abalone (delicious) and chatting w/ the fisherman who caught it. He was well educated about the importance of conservation and told me about their regenerative abalone hatchery! Great news, indeed.

    Zack, from our boat, buried a dolphin head that he found a few years ago so we hunted it down and had a little biology lesson. Nifty.

    The landscape is rugged: dry rugged hills that descend directly into an abundant sea.

    The people are correspondingly rugged and also quick to help each other and visitors as it's the only way to survive. Perhaps a good lesson for all of us to remember: nobody is truly an island.

    I took advantage of being in town to get my head fur trimmed up. $6 for a decent cut and a hilarious conversation. I wish that Kequi had a shop nearer to home. I'll plan to visit him again, for sure.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Underway Again

    9 Kasım 2024, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Saturday morning we arose with calm airs and glassy seas.

    We 'enjoyed' music from the local bar until fairly late at night, then some tremendous ranchera music from a nearby fishing boat as the workers loaded it predawn.

    My favorite: Obla-di Obla-da in Spanish with trumpets, accordians, and many guitars. It worked surprisingly well, actually.

    After the 8am VHF all-fleet check-in we wrapped up our preparations, weighed anchor, and waved goodbye to the fine folks of Bahia Tortuga.

    Being amongst 100+ cruising sailboats in full sunshine as we swarmed out of the mouth of the bay was inspiring. Truly a beautiful sight to behold. I don't think I captured it well but hopefully somebody had a drone flying. It's tough to be a photographer and a helmsmen at the same time!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Water

    9 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    One of the luxuries we enjoy aboard the Tao Neutrino is a water maker (desal plant). It means we can shower and generally act as if we aren't afloat at sea in some ways.

    It does require maintenance, however, so I volunteered to change some wretchedly stinky filters while we were in calm water.

    Totally worth it.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Not All Easy

    9 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Donn (our captain) shared a good perspective on his blog

    https://medium.com/@donn.denman/is-this-the-rig…

    Sometimes 3 adults living in 36x10 ft isn't all agreements and happiness.Okumaya devam et

  • Downwind Moon Up

    9 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    5knots over water with just a spinnaker while the sun drops and the moon pops.

    Life is good.

    The night watch at 3AM was full of meteors: I counted 15 in less than an hour, streaking gloriously across the brilliance of the Milky Way.

    I don't recall if these are perseids or leonids or ? Maybe I'll call them Birthdayids as I see them most years in the time just before I finish another lap.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Splash!

    10 Kasım 2024, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It had been about a week since I've been in the water. I think that the last time I've gone a week without being in a natural body of water or a swimming pool was probably sometime last November, in South Africa (because swimming with hippos is something you can do, Once).

    Anyhow
    It's a very-low wind day and the sea isa balmy 69°F (20ish °C). We were juuust about bestilled at 2.5kts so the rest of my crew very generously agreed to drop our limp foresail and keep an eye on me while I popped in to see if perchance we had a mahi underneath. We did not. Or we did, and I scared it away by jumping in. Either way: I got a chqnce to splash around in warm (for me) water that's a few hundred feet deep, very blue and clear, with no land in sight.

    Why that last bit is so pleasing to me is a complete mystery but I do absolutely love the sense of being entirely aquatic: just me and the Blue.

    I'm also pleased to confirm to myself that I can easily keep pace with the boat at ~1 knot (with fins). I'd like to try 2 or 3 and see how that goes. But also that doing a drop past a few yards is vaguely terrifying in that I can easily imagine the boat continuing on with me lost in the wake: yikes!

    The swim felt fantastic and I emerged well rinsed in both body and soul.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Timing and Lighting

    12–14 Kas 2024, Meksika ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    We had two long and gentle days of light (8-10kts) wind from Bahia Tortugas to Bahia Santa Maria.

    Now that I'm in a great spot for spearfishing with time to fish.... It's a zesty 15kt with gusts near 20.

    Phooey.

    On the plus side, the weather makes for spectacular sunrises/sets! And rest is good, too.

    Being in Bahia Santa Maria is restful and included recreation, minor repairs, and very welcome sleep.

    Frustratingly, the 2 nights there had a more or less constant 20 knot wind. Glorious sailing weather! Absolute crap for spearfishing, dinghy-ing, and not-that-ideal for beach frolics.

    Of course the morning of departure the wind was off and a heavy fog replaced it. Sigh.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Murphy, you rascal!

    13 Kasım 2024, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    When we stopped in Bahia Tortugas one of the attractions was the fuel dock.

    It's a long ways from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas and having some diesel can help speed up the low-wind parts, recharge batteries, and most importantly allow navigation in anchoring/docking or when evading obstacles (like storms, for instance).

    So we were happy to pour ~25 gallons of our reserve fuel into the tank and send our spiffy yellow diesel cans in to the dock with our crewmember Zack for a refill.

    He hadn't heard the oft repeated reality that Bahia Tortugas doesn't accept credit cards (they don't, anywhere) and so had to run back to the boat while the cans were getting filled, to get cash. <Insert ominous tone> Leaving the cans unattended </tone>

    None of us really noticed that the final cash price was lower than what we had expected, or at least didn't have an appropriate alarm response. Surely Zack, who never let's an opportunity pass to remind us of his vast martime experience, was capable of buying fuel. Probably just a language mismatch.

    So we lashed out happy yellow (prominantly marked "Diesel") cans to the rail and headed to Bahia Santa Maria.

    We burned some fuel along the way, as one does.

    After two nights in B. Santa Maria we woke early to fuel up and head south.

    Upon starting the transfer pump Zack (to his great credit) noticed that the fuel was oddly clear vs. pinkish and *stopped the pump*

    Thank goodness for that important moment/decision. This was a ligit critical turning point in the story.

    I'll skip to the punchline: we got 25 gallons of gasoline. The sensation we had is best summarized by "Fuck" (with a downward intonation resonant of dismay and frustration).

    Obviously it is the fuel dock's fault and anyone could've made the mistake of not double checking (in fact all three of us did NOT double check). But the mistake remains very inconvenient and a testament to Murphy's presence on Sea as well as Land (and south of the border, too. Aside: does Mexico have a name for Murphy? Worthy of learning)

    And most of the fleet was already out of the Bay by the time we had checked all the cans (and double checked them, because: Disbelief).

    Luckily, and in the ancient tradition of maritime mutual aid, The Second Wind came to help us. We traded 5 gal of useless-to-us gasoline for 5 gal of precious diesel.

    We showered them with gratitude and almost all of our stores of chocolate. I miss the chocolate more than I thought I would, to be honest.

    Thus greatly reassured - 5 gal gets us about 50 nautical miles at a fairly fast 5kts and we had more than 10gal in the tank with about 150 total nm to travel, presumably under sail for at least _some_ of the journey, we set forth.

    Good lessons were presented in this experience. I am certain that this scenario will not play out in my future experience as I'll surely tell the tale to everyone headed to the fuel dock, forever (sorry in advance, my future crewmates!).

    Onward! Adventure!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Beating Up Past Cerralvo

    17 Kasım 2024, Meksika ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    51 so far is rough

    4am wakeup
    0445 departure
    We found a wandering dinghy 2 miles offshore and towed it back into a choppy mess of black heaving sea and wind in our teeth. It was the only decent thing to do but consumed 90 minutes and no little bit of effort. The dinghy owner radioed us as we re-departed and showered us with gratitude, and it's notable how much that helps make the effort feel less heavy.

    The "10-15" mph wind forecast was wildly inaccurate. We have been closer to 20 all day, with gusts over 25. Bumpy too. But Tao Neutrino handles well and it's sunny/warm. The passing views are beautiful to enjoy - desert landscape plunges down steep temporarily green hills directly to a cerulean sea.

    We are likely adjusting our destination to avoid sailing past nightfall into an unfamiliar harbor, but it'll depend on if the wind shifts and by how much. Such is sailing! Weather and Tide wait for no man.
    Okumaya devam et

    Gezinin sonu
    16 Kasım 2024