Camino de Santiago

A 61-day adventure by Susan and Jim's Travels & Susan Read more

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Camino de Santiago
Motel 6 On the Camino
October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
"We'll leave the lights on!"

So, I have mentioned the mentioned that the part of the Camino that we're on (and have been on for the past week) is called the "meseta". It has long distances between villages, beige plateaus, no shade & is not very interesting. Even the little villages we have passed through don't have much there. Today our walk was okay, but most of it was on a road that was not very busy along corn fields. The most exciting thing was sering a green tractor and the we saw a blue tractor. Quite honestly, I don't have many pics for today because there wasn't much I wanted to remember. Jim has done a really good job booking places to stay at night. Tonight's place got good reviews but, it is a truck stop. Not the quaint little b&b I would picture if someone told me they were walking through old villages in northern Spain. Motel Avia is clean & comfortable, but totally devoid of character or beauty. It is just one more example of how the Camino is a metaphor for life. Sometimes where you are is not good or bad, it's just a truck stop.Read more
TravelerHotel Castillo El Burgo, but don't let the real name ruin a snarky footprint!
10/16/22Reply
Travelerlife is like a box of chocolates
10/16/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
El Burgo Ranero
October 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Another day walking long straight flat stretches of the Meseta. Today we walked next to a paved road with hardly any traffic and the Camino was lined with
trees. The kilometers keep decreasing

Visited by another Café Cat!Read more
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Camino de Santiago
12k to Reliegos
October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Long walk all morning in a light rain, only heavy enough to put on rain coats a couple of times.

We were pleasantly surprised to have a small patch of trees to walk through, on either side of a small stream.

The local government was kind enough to post instructions on "how to poop in the woods"!

Other than that it was the usual Meseta walk on long straight and flat next to a lightly travelled road.Read more
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Camino de Santiago
Mansilla de las Mules
October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C
A few shots on the road from Reliegos to Mansilla da las Mulas.

Our Kilometer numbers keep going down

We were lucky to find a couple of unlocked churches in Mansilla (apparently there used to be many Mules here. We did not see any today!)Read more
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Camino de Santiago
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On the Road to Mansilla de las Mulas
October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Another 17K walk on a road filled with agricultural land. I was prepared for a drenching rain, and we lucked out once again. Only few patches of drizzle. We had a coffee break in Reliegos, and got our destination of Mansilla de las Mulas (Mule Saddle?) early afternoon. We entered the town through the "door of St. James". This town definitely has no truck stops! I hope we have turned a corner as we approach the city of Leon, the meseta is slowly ending (churches in the meseta have been mostly closed, when open very stark.) A good sign was that St. Mary's church was open & didn't charge us an entrance fee and was peaceful & beautiful.

.Read more
Traveler As a Catholic, I am embarrassed that this church has to put a fence between the viewer and the object. We do have a commandment about stealing right?
10/17/22Reply
Travelerpretty standard practice for the few churches left open, but unattended. All the altars are gated!
10/17/22Reply
Travelerdon't be embarrassed, it's all good! I could have taken the pic in between pickets. I chose to give you the real thing!
10/17/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
Google Lens Translate rocks!
October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
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Camino de Santiago
León
October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Sue and I decided unanimously that we are done walking the Meseta. No more walking dirt paths 10 yards from a National Road. This morning we sent our packs ahead to our León hostel, then we boarded a bus to León ! Our one day off in the city, has become two days off from walking.

And tomorrow afternoon we will bus ahead past the last two days of the Meseta, putting us two days ahead of schedule. Thursday morning, we will start climbing up to the Cantabrian Mountains!

This morning we toured the Cathedral de León....

The stained glass windows are unbelievable, the photos do not do them justice!Read more
Traveleryour puppies deserve a break and your spirit.
10/18/22Reply
TravelerI support your decision. Have fun... but a Marriott stay seems in order given two days of expenses and housing are available for redistribution
10/18/22Reply
TravelerThis is where I stayed in Leon. As you look at the front of the cathedral there is a hotel on the corner to your right. That is the hotel I stayed. Looking down on the square at night with the cathedral all lit up was beautiful.
10/18/22Reply
Traveler👍 we support your decision , too. Today it was a wonderful day, only walking the Meseta near the street is really borring. Wonderful photos...
10/18/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
An afternoon in León
October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We walked around León all afternoon, just a few shots of the town and San Isidoro's Basilica.

Sue has many more photos than me....
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Camino de Santiago
Tapas bar that plays Elvis on a loop!
October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
I have been singing along with Elvis songs (in English, I am not sure the locals know the words) all night in this Tapas bar, Restaurante la Cucina.

All the regulars think I am crazy!
TravelerNot crazy! Just nothin but a hound dog
10/19/22Reply
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Afternoon Exploring Leon
October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Today was a nice change of pace since we concentrated more on exploring Leon rather than walking to it. Jim covered our visit to the cathedral in his post. The stained glass windows were the highlight for me. The sun shining in through the windows was a great part of their beauty that we got to see.

We spent the afternoon mostly in the old city. We visited St. Isidoro church. The Gaudi Museum was closed, however we did see the famous sculpture of Gaudi sitting on the bench, which is outside the museum in the Plaza. I took many other pics of sculptures as we walked this afternoon. The weather was perfect. blue skies & high 60's.

Our late afternoon cool experience was going to the Leon Biblioteca (Library) to print out our applications to vote electronically in the Nov election. Our mail-in ballots didn't arrive before we left to travel. Thank goodness for Google Translate, it sure helped as we needed help communicating with the librarian to get this done!Read more
TravelerToo bad you missed the Gaudi Museum, it was great.
10/18/22Reply
TravelerI also enjoyed the Gaudi museum. Not far from there is another cathedral that believes it hold “the holy grail”. It’s all jewel encrusted. There is a documentary floating around that tells quite an interesting story of the cup. Well documented for many centuries back. Quite fun to see it. It’s a lovely cup with a lovely story.
10/18/22Reply
Traveler Love this!
10/18/22Reply
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Astorga
October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
We had our second consecutive day off today. We saw everything we wanted too in León, so we slept in, had a late breakfast, then hopped a bus to Astorga.

The bus system in Spain seems to be very nice. Both of our bus trip were on time. Both were nice "Tour Buses", no junky Greyhound buses here! The routes included quick stops in the center of every town along the way. And the city bus stations are centrally located in the cities. Two thumbs up!

Upon hitting Astorga, first priority was buy a couple of nice rain ponchos, as the 10-day forecast looks very wet as we head into the first mountain ridge.

Next was a visit to a small church, then a tour of the Cathedral here. A late afternoon rest break, was followed by a visit to the Guadi Palace & Museum.Read more
Traveler love this one
10/19/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
Guadi Palace
October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
I just had to include some of these pics. Amazing place. Audio tours provide so much info, I get overwhelmed with the amount of details...
TravelerI just love and am amazed by Gaudi architecture
10/19/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
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Chill Day 2 - Seeing Astorga
October 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Took our time this morning leaving Hostel Boccalino & caught the 11:20 bus to Astorga. From the bus window it was raining & there were Pilgrims walking the road we were traveling on. I felt a few pangs of "I should be walking" & then reminded myself everyone walks their own Camino. My weather app is showing lots more days of rain ahead. Our first stop in Astorga was an outdoor shop to get some rain Ponchos. While food, beer & wine are inexpensive here, clothing & outdoor gear are expensive. We both got got rain ponchos that cost way more than I wanted to spend, but when we came out of the store there were torrential downpours. Glad we are prepared for the next week!

We visited Basilica Nuestra Fatima de Senora. Simple but beautiful! Seeing the sites can get complicated as Siesta seems to start right after we enter a city & many things are closed until 4:30-5.

The Cathedral Astorga was open & we did an audio tour.

Hoping to see the Chocolate Museum & the Gaudi Palace before we leave ... stay tuned.Read more
TravelerWe took the bus from San Justo to Astorga, only three miles but we were able to tour the Cathedral. You are only one day behind us now. We have up and very steep down tomorrow. Astorga to Rabal del Camino was wet and boring.
10/19/22Reply
Travelerhoping we'll see you & Sandy at some point soon!)
10/19/22Reply
Traveler picture of Clara Barton?
10/19/22Reply
Travelernurses from a war (sorry I'm forgetting, I think it was Span/Amer War that were killed they are being considered for sainthood)
10/19/22Reply
Travelerwow
10/19/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
Moon and predawn light Cathedral
October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Early morning view from our room's little balcony.

The moon hanging over the Astorga Cathedrals spires, with the sun on its way.

Buen Camino everyone, wherever you are!
Travelerbuen camino dear friends!
10/20/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
On the Road Again
October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
The rain is supposed to hold off until early afternoon so we got an early start. Stopping for coffee now. We're about halfway to our day's destination. We were rewarded with a rainbow already this morning.Read more
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Camino de Santiago
9.2 km to Santa Catalina de Somoza
October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
We have began a long,gradual 1 and a half day climb to the first ridge of the Cantabrian Mountains.

We had ominous dark clouds ahead, but sunlight in the valley behind. Result: More Camino Rainbows!!!

First café break of the day!Read more
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Camino de Santiago
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Rabanal del Camino
October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
We climbed quite a bit today, even though it was a gradual incline. We can feel in the air, it will be cool this afternoon and cold tonight. Our cool Max sleeping bag liners will be put to the test for warmth for the first time!

The mountain ridge is much closer now. We were lucky with the weather today. Several periods of light rain, but no downpours! One more rainbow 🌈 was spotted.

After our coffee break we met David from Marion MA. He started his Caminoa few days ago in León!

We also met a couple from Holland who started walking today in Astorga, continuing their Camino started several years ago, walking two weeks at a time. Now they have a full month to walk to Santiago.

We cruised today, starting around 8:05, and finished just about 1:00 pm, 20.1 km in 5 hours with one break.

Tomorrow we will pass Cruz Ferro and later, Alto de Céréales, the highest elevation on the Camino!Read more
Traveler They're calling your name Sue
10/20/22Reply
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Singing Monks for Vespers
October 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
Until the down pours came we had some time to explore this quaint village. What a treat we had tonight. The village church each evening provides vespers sung by the local monks. It was a lovely service that they provide for the Pilgrims.Read more
Traveler your getting some Fall colors
10/20/22Reply
TravelerI went to that service in 2019. It was lovely. Such atmosphere in that small ancient church with its crumbling stone.
10/21/22Reply
Traveler I like how purposefully Jim is walking away from you in this photo. Showing off those toned muscles
10/21/22Reply
TravelerShe told me to keep walking!
10/22/22Reply
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Foncebadón, near the top!
October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
5.2 km uphill to this small mountainside village. According to the guide books it was once completely abandoned, but the modern Camino's popularity has brought it back!

There are many ruins of stone buildings along the street.

We have climbed up into the clouds, walking through mist and light drizzle, but still no heavy rain.Read more
Traveler Susan you need veto power over photos being posted
10/21/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
Cruz Ferro, then on to El Acebo
October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
We walked 2 kilometers to Cruz Ferro, the Iron Cross. The tradition is to carry a stone up to the mountain top, leave it at the cross as a symbol of a burden to leave behind.

We left our stones and continued on.

We walked another 6 km along the ridge top, hit the high elevation point of the Camino ( Sorry no #Samberging photo, it really was not a special spot)

The we had a difficult 3-4 km descent, steep and rocky. We walked a couple of kilometers along the road, but a driver kind of squeezed us against the guardrail, and yelled at us in Spanish about the Camino being up the hill. We crossed back to the path after that and walked the rest of the way on the rocky trail!

From the terrace of our hostal, we can see the Bierzo valley below. Tomorrow,'s walk!Read more
TravelerI stayed in the town you are in tonight. It was a lovely place at the far end of town near the flag poles. Great views. Pilgrims all were seated together for a wonderful dinner.
10/21/22Reply
TravelerThat’s okay. I posted a #samberging today ;)
10/21/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
A rocky down hill 9k to Molinaseca
October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Several hours of a slow rocky downhill wask to our coffee break town.

We are almost down to the valley floor.

Apparently the Boston Bruins run an Albergue here!
Traveleryou pass through such small pretty villages…
10/22/22Reply
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Todays Trek to Acebo
October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Lots of climbing up & a long painful downhill trek today (we still have more downhill tomorrow). The Cruz Ferro (Iron Cross) was very memorable. Jim & I left stones that at the top of the cross symbolizing a burden we'd like to leave behind. Hopefully, I am not the "burden" as I was pretty vocal about my knees killing me by the time we got to Acebo!😅

All along our walk today there were gorgeous vistas everywhere we looked.

We are staying in a very old casa rural called La Rosa de Agua. This old place is owned by a guy in Texas! We were told we'd meet Mike from Texas tomorrow. The little village of Acebo is one of the prettiest of our trip! It's surrounded by mountains. Peaceful music was playing in the little restaurant & a warm fire was in the woodstove as we ordered lunch. It's kind of chilly here because we're high up & the weather is damp & cloudy.We got the most beautiful salad for lunch, (iceburg lettuce in salads is all they have served so far during our trip). This salad had spinach, frisee, strawberries, nuts, cheese, eggs, tuna, olives, apples... it was a work of art!Read more
Traveler Nice job
10/21/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
7k on a sidewalk to Ponferrada
October 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
The last walk of the day was next to a local road that ran into the city of Ponferada. All 7k on. sidewalk. We were very happy for a sidewalk after all the rocky trails over the last two days.

The city has a castle, but we walked by it on the way to our hostel. Hopefully it will be open later!

The other highlight of this afternoon. We have been emailing with the Worcester Elections office about voting from overseas. We can vote using the same methods of overseas service and families. But all the forms need to be printed, filled out in pen, then scanned to PDF files, which i can do on my phone. Back in León, we had a half hour ordeal at the public library to get application forms printed. Today I found a Copy Center, that printed our ballots and affidavits in ,5 minutes! Voting to be accomplished soon!Read more
TravelerWe took a taxi from Molinaseca to the far side of Ponferrada, made for a very pleasant walk to Villafranca de Bierzo. Nice walk, all on the road along a river with a superhighway above today with steady rain the last four miles. Beautiful Paraiso del Bierzo tonight before hiking UP to Ocereibro tomorrow.
10/22/22Reply
TravelerWe just booked Paraiso del Berzo last night, for Monday, it looks nice!
10/22/22Reply
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Castle of the Knights Templar
October 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C
After Siesta today we explored a little bit of Ponferrada.

One of the women from our hostel, Ginny, from Brisbane, Australia came along with us to tour the Knights Castle.

A little history...the knights templar arrived in Ponferrada Spain to protect the Camino de Santiago & its route across the Iron Bridge (Pons Ferrata). They remained in the castle for over a century.Read more
Traveler Love the smiling faces
10/22/22Reply
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Camino de Santiago
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Crossing the Bierzo Vally
October 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Long walk for today. Woke up to heavy rain falling. It changed to light rain as we started walking, then it stopped and some brief sun from the east gave us a couple of rainbows.

Flat walking with some windy gusts. More rain predicted for the afternoon...Read more
Traveler pretty
10/23/22Reply
Travelerits this country know for rainbows?
10/23/22Reply
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