• Last 2 days

    September 25 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our hotel in Parikia has been unexpectedly delightful. It's right in the centre but the soundproofing is excellent. The rooms are compact but have everything you need and, even more unusual, just where you want them. It has a shaded courtyard that is very pretty and peaceful. They also include an excellent breakfast!
    Today we repeated visits to the museum and the Orthodox church, dating originally from the 6c, reputedly funded by Helena, mother of Constantine. The museum has had some updating since we were last here in 2021 and there is a whole room devoted to finds from Despotiko - the uninhabited island off Antiparos that we were lucky enough to visit on our last trip.
    We had a delicious dinner on the sea front watching the sunset.
    Return to reality tomorrow with a flight back via Athens.
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  • Last day at Stella's

    September 24 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    We have done very little in the last few days - just a walk north to the headland and to the harbour in the other direction. We had intended to go down to the beach but the sea has been too rough to swim and the waves left very little of the beach dry. Two days were partial cloud and it rained one evening so the electricity went off for an hour, thankfully not before they had cooked our dinner. So it's been lazing on our terrace or around the pool, swimming and of course, eating. We have tried most things on the menu and they are as delicious as usual but the main courses are more limited than before. Stella is not cooking herself anymore except for the cooking classes she runs most days. Just waiting for the taxi to take us to Parikia for our last 2 days.Read more

  • Back to Stella's

    September 19 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Easy journey today, taxi to the port of Rafina, lunch in the sun, big comfortable ferry from rafina to andros, tinos, mykonos and paros and a taxi to Stella's and a big welcome hug!

    Drinks by the pool and a Stella dinner, fantastic!Read more

  • Last day in Athens

    September 18 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The tour broke up last night everyone getting their transport to the airport this morning. Not us though, we checked out of the hotel and got a taxi across the city to another hotel near to the archaeological museum. So in case we hadn't had enough of museums we did another afternoon in the archaeological museum seeing the things we didnt get to see on the tour. As usually seems to happen some of the rooms we wanted to see were closed, but it was worth another visit. One good thing about the new hotel - in addition to providing bottles of water, we each were given a 180 cc bottle of red wine. So this evening in the sun on our balcony ....

    Tomorrow we catch the ferry for the journey to Paros and a few days peace and relaxation at Stella's. I haven't been taken by Athens, although the archaeological stuff is interesting, the modern city is frantic, noisy and rather thread-bare, a bit dirty and with graffiti everywhere.
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  • Last day of tour

    September 17 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    For our last day the sun has returned and we visited 3 sites. First was something quite different. At Lerna the visible remains are from 2600 BC. It is a large 2 storey house built of mud brick that was burnt in a fire baking and preserving the mud bricks. The ground floor was for storage, probably for a community, and the upper floor thought to be for residential. It is not known who the people were that occupied it, nor the successive waves of people that came after them.
    We then visited Argos, from which the whole Argolid area is named but, like Sparta, very little remains are visible. There is an impressive large theatre cut into the rock of the hillside and a Roman bath house built by Hadrian, which was closed.
    The final site was beautiful and peaceful with few visitors - Namea. It was not a settlement but the site of one of the Panhellenic games held every 2 years. A well preserved stadium complete with tunnel from the dis-robing room (they raced naked) and a picturesce temple. They now run revival games every 4 years that anyone can take part in (wearing white tunics!).
    After a sumptuous lunch at a restaurant run by a winery (Namea is famous for its wine) we headed back to Athens and had a generous farewell dinner at a lovely rooftop restaurant. (Bad scheduling). A really good tour with an excellent archaeologist.
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  • Tegea, Sparta and Mystras

    September 16 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Mostly a dull day, not only in that it drizzled rain most of the morning, but also with long drives and not very exciting sites.

    Firstly to the 4th and 2nd century BC Sanctuary of Athena Alea at Tegea, along with its museum. The museum is modern and has some nice stuff from the sanctuaries and surrounding area. The sanctuary itself is quite small consisting of the remains of an older temple from the 4th century BC, destroyed by an earthquake, and remains of the newer one 2nd century BC. The site is quite marshy and overgrown, and it was locked but we got the key from the museum. (OK this was quite interesting!)

    On to Sparta which we were quite excited to see, being one of the main cities of ancient Greece and combatants of the Trojan war, and home to king Menaleus and his queen Helen ( of Sparta and then Troy). Sadly there is almost nothing to see there now. We trudged in the rain to see the huge amphitheatre but it is now only a few rows of stone seats with the rest just earth banking, and in any case it's roman! Even the museum was dull and old-fashioned.

    On to the 14th and 15th (AD) Byzantine city of Mystras . A nice basilica which was reused as a mosque by the ottomans, but which still has nice frescoes of the life of Mary. And a Byzantine palace which has been extensively "restored ".
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  • Mycenae

    September 15 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We have been to Mycenae before 25 years ago when it was pouring with rain making the steep stone ramps so slippy we could hardly get past the lion gate. So on our return today it started raining just as we arrived! Thankfully it was just an annoying drizzle and didn't prevent us from seeing the whole site. As with other Myceanian sites it has cyclopian walls and a palace area at the highest point. Unusually, it has burials within the walls and tholos tombs close by. All the tholos tombs were robbed in antiquity but some of the shaft tombs were intact and had fabulous grave goods including the "Mask of Agamemnon". No-one knows if Agamemnon actually existed. Mycenae undoubtedly had rulers and Greeks in the 6c bc thought Agamemnon was one but there is no evidence. If he did exist and took part in a war with Troy, it would have been 100 years after the mask was buried.
    Despite the weather we really enjoyed the visit to the site and the small museum there.
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  • Midea, Dendra and Argive Heraion

    September 15 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    This morning we visited three sites, none of which were exciting but each had some interest. All morning there was heavy low cloud sometimes dropping as light drizzle. The first site, Midea, is another Myceanian acropolis with Cyclopean walls but not much survives inside.
    The second site Dendra is the cemetery the rulers on Midea. It has one tholos (beehive shaped stone structure) told and several chamber tombs. All of these were un-robbed and provided incredibly rich grave goods that we have seen in the National and Nafplion museums. These date from the 16th to 13th centuries bc.
    The third site was not a settlement site but a sanctuary dedicated to Hera through all periods from Myceanian through to Roman. The site today contains the remains of 3 temples dating from 7c bc, 4c bc and 2c bc from highest to lowest on a hillside visible from most surrounding settlements.
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  • Tiryns and Epidavros

    September 14 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We woke to a cloudy sky and during breakfast on the roof terrace the heavens opened and there was a downpour complete with rainbow. Despite some sunshine during the day it continued to threaten but not actually rain until dinner time when there was a persistent drizzle.
    We started at the Nafplion museum which is a grand three story venetian building of the 17 hundreds. It contains fine objects from all over the Argolid cities and from all eras from paleolithic tools from cave dwellings around 28000bc through to Roman period. One thing it demonstrated was the strong influence of the Minoans on the Myceanians.

    Then to the city of Tiryns, a Mycenian city 1700bc to 1100bc with spectular defensive walls up to 10 metres high, and generally 6 metres thick but in places over 17 metres thick. The technology of the massive blocks used in the walls with spacers to allow for earthquake and the corbelled vaulting in the galleries was very impressive!
    On the way to Epidaurus we stopped to see a Myceanian bridge which used the same corbelling.
    Epidaurus, though occupied earlier, is mainly a classical Greek site from 600bc to Roman. It's main fame nowadays is the large well preserved Greek theatre, with superb acoustics, still used for performances each summer. But in ancient times is was known as a centre of healing with the cult of Asklepios. The sick were given soporific drinks to make them dream and on waking were either cured or the dream was interpreted to discover how to treat them. This could include surgery or being licked by snakes or dogs! The museum has some rather alarming surgical instruments. The site is enormous and we needed Rita to make sense of all the remains.
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  • Leaving Athens for the Peloponnese

    September 13 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    This morning we checked out of our hotel in Athens and drove for an hour and a half to Corinth, stopping at the canal on the way for a photo. Our main site today was ancient Corinth which, in honesty, is a bit of a messy site. Apparently there are 10 layers of habitation from prehistory to Frankish in the 12c AD. Most of what you can see now is Roman as the Greek town was flattened by the Romans in about 150BC and then a new Roman town built on it nearly a 100 years later. With the help of Rita we hunted out the main Greek bits which were sadly underwhelming. However the site museum has some lovely pieces from all the eras.
    After lunch we drove to Nafplion where we stay for the next 4 nights. Nafplio is mainly a Venetian town with a marble paved pedestrian centre, some remaining buildings and 2 forts.
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  • Athens stadium, agora and museum

    September 12 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today involved less walking as the minibus took us between sights, but the 36c heat with no breeze made it gruelling. We started this morning with a quick visit to the stadium where the first modern Olympic games where held and where lots of the recent Athens Olympics were. It was built on the ruins of the stadium where the panathenaic games were held in 500bc. Then to the ancient agora, a huge open space (now) which was the centre of ancient life, full of statues, temples and administration buildings. One of the stoa of the agora was rebuilt and now houses a museum of the artifacts that were found there. Small but very nice. It also has a modern model of the machine used for randomising the selection of citizens for being used on juries and other public activities. Very clever.

    Then to the roman agora , very boring, and to the National Archaeological museum that houses things right from prehistory so ottoman times. It's like trying to take in the British museum in one go, so Rita just concentrated on a few things, then we have a whole day free at the end of the tour for us to go back and see it all again!

    Leaving Athens tomorrow to go to the pelponnese, via corinth.
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  • Acropolis

    September 11 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Today has been exhausting but worth it. We started at 8.00 and walked to the Acropolis. The aim of the early start was to avoid the worst of the crowds but that didnt seem to work. I have been here 3 times before and never seen such congestion. At several narrow points there were queues and hordes of people. Nevertheless our achaeologist guide Rita managed to show us many parts we had missed before and explained its evolution from a Myceanian fortification in 13c BC through the Greek periods to the Roman. It is still so impressive- both the art/architecture and the technology.
    We then walked in blazing 34c heat and sun to the Pnyx - an open space on a small hill where democracy was invented.

    We had a well earned break for lunch at an old style taverna then conti ued at the New Acropolis Museum - a lovely space with some beautiful statues from archaic to classical. And of course, a whole floor dedicated to the Parthenon sculptures with plaster casts where the BM has the originals. We have come to believe that they should be returned either permanently or on loan as the new gallery would really do them justice.
    We only got back to the hotel at 16.45 - almost 9 hours on our feet!
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  • Arrived Athens

    September 10 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our flight was delayed but still got into Athens in good time and they dont seem to doing the EU new bio checks so passport control was really quick. Our hotel rooftop bar has good views .Early start tomorrow to the parthenon,.Read more

  • Last days

    June 1 in England ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Saturday centred around watching Arsenal play in the Champions league final against PSG which here was on tv at 12.00 midday. Before that the Armstrongs managed to climb both hills on Pigeon Island- an impressive feat especially in this heat. Sadly Arsenal didn't manage to make everyone happy. We dressed up and stayed in the hotel to eat for our last night and had the worst meal of the week - slow service and cold food.

    On Sunday, our last day, we had to check out at 12.00 but spent the rest of the time on the beach with a delicious lunch at the Callalou restaurant- only open till 5pm so not available in the evening. It's puzzling how two restaurants in the same rest can be so different. It was difficult dragging the kids out of the sea to change for our transfer to the airport at 4.30.

    The flight was delayed an hour but took off at 9.45pm and landed at Gatwick at 10.15 am. Most of us managed to sleep a bit but we're glad to reach home about 1.00pm.

    A wonderful trip with some very happy memories.
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  • Snorkeling and street party

    May 30 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Yesterday morning we took a tour to the local dive centre at pigeon point to go snorkeling. They provided all the gear and two guides and we spent an hour in the water. At first it was quite murky then it cleared and we got to see plenty of fish and coral. parrot fish, trigger fish, lots of sergeant major fish , even a squid. After we moved on round the end of the point it got choppy and very murky again so less easy to see the fish.

    In the evening it was the friday night street party again, so we walked into town and ate at some on the stalls. It's Andy and Natalie's wedding anniversary and when we got back we found that some of the staff had decorated the room, put up balloons and delivered rich chocolate truffles. Really nice!
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  • Two busy days

    May 27 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Yesterday, after we had a swim before breakfast, the Armstrongs went to a nearby water park where they did a circuit of inflatables - like bouncy castles in the water. They had good fun. Meanwhile we went to a Massy supermarket to restock and were shocked to find the shelves has lots of Waitrose own brand stuff. Home from home.
    Later the kids went to kids club and produced great tie-dye T shirts before going kayaking and messing about in the water.
    In the evening Nat and Andy had a romantic dinner at the sushi restaurant to celebtheir wedding anniversary this week - 16 years!
    We and the kids stayed in and had room service.
    Today the Armstrongs went on a full day trip to the Hotel Chocolat estate to learn about and make chocolate. This included boat there and back with snorkeling and party on the way back.
    We had a much more sedate historical tour of the north half of the island which ended with a hike up to Fort Rodney at the tip of Pigeon Island.
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  • Bank holiday Monday

    May 25 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    It's a bank holiday here too, which we didn't realise until we walked to the bakery and found it closed. Luckily the owner was there doing some alterations and she baked us some croissants and baguettes - so kind. And they were delicious. The kids went to kids club for the first time and particularly enjoyed a lesson in the Creole patois spoken in St Lucia. This afternoon Nat and Emily went to the spa and had massages.
    Thankfully the noisy French teens went home to Guadelupe. Apparently they were all here for some powerboat event where their dad's were showing off their noisy fast boats, thankfully not in our bay.
    Today we got a beautsunset, such a contrast to the same view in the rain.
    We went into town hoping to go to a local restaurant for dinner but they were all closed for the bank holiday but our taxi driver took us to a local food court where there were several food shacks and we had a really tasty meal.
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  • Contrasts

    May 24 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Last night the hotel put on entertainment in the restaurant area. The steel band was good but only on for a short time. It was followed by pyrotechnic limbo dancers who were spectacular. The kids loved it. Later it descended into noisy French pop - there are a lot of French tourists from Martinique which is the nearest island only 20 miles away. Thankfully the noise all stops at 9.30 whe the restaurant closes.

    This morning after Nat and Andy did circuits in the gym the Armstrongs went to church in the nearby town - and sat through an hour long sermon. The weather had been pleasant and sunny all morning but as we walked along the beach to a nearby restaurant it started raining and it has hardly stopped all afternoon, often really torrential. So we got soaked on the way there and the way back, warm rain but still wet. Thankfully the meal was really good so worth it. All this when we hear there are heatwaves at home!
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  • Party night and the weather

    May 23 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Friday night in Gros Islet is Jump up street party night which has been happening every week for over 50 years. We wondered if it was something put on for the tourists but clearly not. Locals come from all over the island and party until the small hours with lots of stalls of street food, loud music and dancing in the streets. We walked into town just before sunset and had a look around. It's a poor town with mostly wooden shacks but plenty of life.

    Unfortunately soon after we got there the heavens opened and sauntering around the stalls was less attractive. So we went into a local restaurant and had a tasty meal of fried catch of the day ( marlin and king fish) and fried chicken - and some excellent margaritas! We were all still tired so got a taxi back to the hotel.

    The weather is typically tropical for this time of year - long sunny spells with frequent clouds providing relief from the heat - and occasional downpours. This afternoon I was swimming in the sea when a downpour came and soaked my stuff on the sunbed as well as me!
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  • First day in st lucia

    May 22 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    After a long LONG day yesterday we were all shattered last night, but up bright and very early for a swim in the ocean before breakfast - a huge buffet breakfast, I don't think I'll eat for a week!

    The hotel is magnificent and just perfect. The weather is hot and sunny but with patchy clouds - also perfect! Finlay and Emily have been swimming in the carribean all morning, when they weren't in the pool!. So far it's just what we all wanted!
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  • Arrival

    May 22 in Saint Lucia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    The 8 and a half hour flight was less tedious than expected due to copious use of seat back screens to watch movies and play games. However the private transfer to the hotel at the opposite end of the island took 2 hours mainly due to a slow traffic jam for half of it. This meant we arrived at the hotel at 6pm, just before sunset, preventing a quick swim.
    But the hotel more than made up for the disappointment. It is gorgeous. We have 3 bedroom apartment on the beachfront, each room en-suite, a living room, kitchen and enormous terraces. Probably the most luxurious place any of us have stayed in. Despite it being midnight UK time we managed a light supper at the beach restaurant in temperature of 25C with a lovely breeze.
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  • More museums

    March 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    So this morning we went back to the archaeological museum to finish the stuff we didn't do yesterday. We skipped the Islamic period and more modern Christian bits, and spent two hours in the roman, visigoth and Egyptian sections. Afterwards we went to the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza, which is a huge art gallery, and had a couple of hours doing about half of it , from the 13th century up to impressionist, with a bit of twenty century modern art thrown in. It's a really good museum, but strangely few highlight pieces, and in the end we'd had enough and gave up.Read more

  • Madrid

    March 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Our transfer from Cordoba to Madrid went smoothly yesterday - by taxi and high speed train, along the stretch of line where the dreadful accident occurred in January.

    Our hotel in Madrid is comfortable and in a great position overlooking the Retiro Park. Today we went to the National Archaeological Museum and spent over three hours before giving up, planning to return tomorrow. We covered one and a half floors containing amazing finds from prehistoric and protohistoric eras, we learned lots of new stuff about the cultures that developed in the Iberian peninsula. We only have one and a half floors left to do tomorrow covering Roman, Visigoth and Medieval periods in Spain, then Egypt and Near East. It's all beautifully displayed and labelled in both Spanish and English but there is so much it gets confusing.Read more

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