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A cruise in Croatia
  • Tim Lynette Wilkins

A cruise in Croatia

A 12-day adventure by Tim Lynette Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 23, 2025
    Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler

    Arrival in Dubrovnic

    May 24 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Our journey yesterday was easy. Taxi to Heathrow at 8.30, breakfast porridge at Pret, BA flight at 11.40, arrived on time with a transfer arranged. Our studio room is in the middle of the Old Town above a restaurant but it was surprisingly quiet overnight.

    The weather yesterday was cloudy with occasional spots of rain but when we went out for dinner, outdoors under an awning, there was a thunderstorm and heavy rain for 10 minutes. We stayed dry!

    As expected Dubrovnik is full of tourists but is still an impressive and interesting place.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Breakfast on roof terrace
    The Stradun - the street across the middle of DubrovnikThe walls looking inlandOne of the forts guarding the cityThe old Venetian portThe impressive land side wallsTaking a rest

    Dubrovnik sightseeing

    May 24 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We woke up this morning to beautiful sunshine so had breakfast on our roof terrace. We decided to do the walk around Dubrovnik's medieval walls before it go too hot or too busy so went there first. It is surprising how small the old town is but the walk takes one and a half hours and involves lots of steps up and down. We found it a bit strenuous- we are just not used to stairs these days and, after all, we are getting old.

    It is a beautiful setting and it is amazing how they have restored most of the buildings after the extensive damage from Serbian bombing in 1991.

    This afternoon we walked around visiting some churches and a monastery . The Dominican monastery contained some art including by titian (which seemed rather poor) and some modern works to replace things destroyed in the war. The church of st. blaise had splendid modern stained glass windows, also replacing destroyed ones. The cathedral has a triptych altarpiece by titian and on each column modern versions of the stations of the cross, which are very simple and very beautiful. The huge jesuit Church of St, ignatius is completely covered in frescoes, except for the modern ceiling which bare - the original having been lost in the Serbian war.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Queen Jelena
    View up riverView out to seaSundeck looking aftSundeck looking forward

    Embarkation

    May 25 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After breakfast we packed up and left the old town of Dubrovnik and took a taxi to the port. Our boat is called Queen Jelena and though only built 6 years ago is in the old style with masts and wood decks. So far everything about the boat is fine. Our cabin is a reasonable size, well fitted and the bathroom isn't poky. It is above deck and has 3 windows rather than portholes. There are only 25 people on the cruise - Americans, Australians and Brits. All greying some older, some younger. None obnoxious so far. The sundeck on top has more sunbeds than passengers so no early towel bagging required. The 3 course lunch was tasty. Only downer is the price of the wine in the bar - London pub prices - and you're not supposed to bring your own on board. We stay in port tonight and sail for our first island in the morning.Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Beautiful small lake
    Bridge across channel between the lakesSt Mary's islandChurch and monasteryInside 12c churchNew stained glass in churchMuch appreciated beer back on board

    Mljet

    May 26 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Engines started ar 6.30 so no lie in this morning. We cruised up the coast north of Dubrovnik past the Peljisac peninsula to Mljet - our first island stop. We stopped mid morning in a bay for a swim. The boat was anchored several hundred yards from the shore so it required going down steps at the side of the boat and launching into deep water. We gave it a miss today. Anyway the water is still quite cold. There were 5 other boats all doing the same thing. Then we sailed into the tiny port of Pomena, alongside 7 other boats and had to do the crossing from boat to boat to get to shore - just like on a Nile cruise.

    The main attraction here is a National Park with 2 beautiful lakes. We walked round the lake for 45 minutes then got a ferry across to an island in the lake. The island has a 12c church and Benedictine monastery. The church was lovely but the monastery closed for works.

    This evening is the Captain's dinner on board so we will have to be sociable.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Korcula land gate
    Emblem of the cityGreek vase in museumCathedralCarving in cathedralCity wallsTrying the local wine

    Korcula

    May 27 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Korcula is one of the biggest and most populous of the Dalmatian islands. We arrived in time for lunch having had a swim stop on the way. Most people then went off on a ATV tour but we just had a walk around the town. It's called "little Dubrovnik" because of the walls, towers and turrets around it. It's quite small so easy to walk around. We managed to get to the local town museum on the dot of closing time, but they let us have 10 minutes before they closed. We took in the cathedral, and it's Tintoretto altar piece and painting of the annunciation, then the bishops treasury next door with paintings by Dalmatian artists from the 14th century up to the present day. The cathedral is quite small but really nice, and feels very welcoming. On the walk back to the boat we stopped at a bar overlooking the sea and had some local white called Grk. Its only grown and made on this island so quite rare. It's dry but full of flavour rather like an alsace traminer.Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler

    Vis

    May 28 in Croatia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Vis is the Croatian island furthest from the dalmatian mainland. Until recently it was under military control and off limits to the public. Today's trip went around the island looking at the military installations, but we opted out: we've seen enough gun placements and submarine pens. Walked around the town for a bit but there isn't really much to see so made do with an ice cream and a glass of wine overlooking the harbour.Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    View from the fort
    Our ship waiting for a mooringCentral square in HvarFortWalking up to the fortDefensive wallCathedralMonastery cloisterOdd painting of Last Supper in monasteryMonastery churchModern stained glass in churchHvar at night

    Hvar

    May 29 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We first came to Hvar in 1971, on something of a special occasion. We liked it so much we came back a few years later. Then it was a rather sleepy Dalmatian town, now its on the superstar and super yacht circuit, so its changed a bit!

    We climbed the hill at the edge of town to look through the fort there. It dates to the 12c but with bits going back to the Illyrians in 500bc. It was rebuilt in the 16c after a thunderbolt hit the gunpowder magazine and blew it up. It has great views over the town and out across the islands. We then visited the cathedral and the Franciscan monastery to see the artifacts and art in its museum.

    Because of the number on ships trying to get into the port now, ours had to wait for a berth to come free so we had to go to shore in water taxis, but by the time we'd done sightseeing, it was moored, and we could just walk back on board.

    These days the town is pretty and attractive, despite the hoards of tourists, with nice Venetian architecture, palm trees and the wide central square.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    The boat moored at Milna
    ChurchInside the church

    Milna, Brac

    May 30 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today has been a lazy day. Every morning we drop anchor in a bay somewhere for people to swim from the boat. Apart from one day the water has been a bit too choppy for us to enjoy a swim. Today it was particularly rough and breezy so only the strong swimmers went for a dip - mostly Australians.

    The village we are moored at is tiny and there is nothing to do here. We walked along the quayside in both directions, visited the church (nothing special) bought Tim a new baseball cap and spent the rest of the afternoon on the boat. Not unpleasant but pretty boring.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Peristyle of palace
    Palace cellarsRoman wall with cathedral bell towerMosaic in streetPalace entranceSphinx brought from EgyptTourist office!Interior of Golden( Northern) gateExterior of Golden gateStatue of Grgur Ninski

    Arrival in Split

    May 31 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today is our last day on the boat. The boat is excellent, and all the crew exemplary, however haven't really found the places we went to so interesting. Pretty or even beautiful, but not really interesting. Split however is, so far, much better than I imagined. The centre of the city is Roman emperor Diocletian's retirement palace and most of it is still extant. We just had a short walk around this afternoon, but even that felt good, with massive walls several stories high, and Roman mosaics still in the pavement!Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Cathedral crypt with statue of St Lucia
    Dome of the vestibule to the palaceThe singing quartetTemple of JupiterTemple converted to an early Christian baptistryRoof of templeEastern (silver) gateMore mosaics in street

    Split sightseeing

    June 1 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We left the ship at 9.00 this morning not sorry to be back on dry land. I think cruises of any size are just not our thing. We went to our apartment expecting to leave our bags until check in at noon but we're able to check in immediately. It's a lovely light filled room in an old house built against the Roman wall. It has everything thoughtfully provided and our own terrace.

    We split the sightseeing into morning and afternoon sessions, returning for a rest in the midday sun. This morning we ticked off the Treasury with some lovely medieval paintings, the cathedral crypt, the vestibule of the palace (where a quartet sang 4 part harmony a capella), Jupiter's temple and the imperial dining room. All of these are basically parts of Diocletian's palace that have been reused without knocking down the original buildings.    Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Cathedral / mausoleum
    Dome of the mausoleum once covered in mosaicCarving frieze under the domePalace cellarsMedieval oil press in cellarsDome in some cellar roomsUnexcavated roomBeer on the prom

    Split sightseeing 2

    June 1 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The afternoon session had us return to see the cathedral itself (it was closed in the morning for mass). It was originally built by Diocletian as his mausoleum where he remained for a couple of hundred years before being chucked out when it was converted to a cathedral. The structure is intact with additions in the 7c. Then we went to see the palace cellars which are incredible. Dozens of rooms, large and small, just the service areas of the palace but still beautifully constructed. Some have still not been excavated as they were used as a rubbish dump for centuries. After all this exertion we sat on the harbour front in the sun and had a beer.Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    The Manastrine - a Funerary basilica outside the walls
    View across main Episcopal areaMain road North - SouthSteps on main roadBaptistry in a basilicaUnusual bastions on the city wallCaesar gate on the west sideEast - West road from the gateBridgesTheatreEarly Christians buried in a rowAmphitheatreKlis fortress seen from Salona - pre-Roman

    Salona

    June 3 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Salona is the largest Roman site in Croatia. Just 10 miles from Split it was the main town and the birthplace of Diocletian. It is enormous and mostly we'll preserved but much has not been excavated. Like elsewhere the material has been reused for later buildings and there is even a house built on the amphitheatre. Yesterday we took a good 2 hours in the hot sun to walk from the top of the site to the bottom, visiting most of the major buildings. Much of the remains are from the 4c Christian period with temples converted to basilica but there are some sarcophagi from Christian martyrs killed by Diocletian at the end of the 3c. The theatre and amphitheatre are earlier - 1c and 2c. It was largely empty - we saw just one tour group walking briskly along the path not entering the buildings. There is not much attempt to make it attractive to tourists, many of the paths are overgrown but at least the explanatory panels were in Croation and English. We enjoyed it.Read more

  • Tim Lynette WilkinsA cruise in CroatiaTraveler
    Archaeological Museum
    Garden of the museumOne of the cloisters full of stuffAmazing sarcophagiSarcophagi for childrenLarge mosaic from SalonaFunerary mosaic for a boyDump of unsorted arefacts

    Last day

    June 3 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our flight home is not till 9.30 this evening so we have arranged a late checkout at 5.
    This morning we went to Split Archaeological Museum which holds the moveable finds from Salona and other nearby sites. Unfortunately they are having a special exhibition on monastic sites on the islands and most of the normal collection is inaccessible. The cloisters and garden are full of sarcophagi, tomb stones and other carving which we expected to be dull but turned out quite absorbing.

    We will spend the afternoon resting, maybe shopping and eating dinner before going to the airport.    Read more

    Trip end
    June 3, 2025
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