• Rest day 2

    8. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Pretty much the same as yesterday but with the addition of the beach. It's no Caribbean strand - quite small and a mix of sand and pebble - but it is pleasant enough. The sunbeds around the wellness pools are more comfy so we spend more time there.Læs mere

  • Moving on

    6. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The tour ended last night with everybody going their separate ways this morning. We took the opportunity to go back into the Pompei site to see some of the bits we didn't see before, for another three hour visit. Then we took a taxi out of Pompei to go to Vico Equense, a town on the coast near to Sorrento, and opposite the island of Capri. We will stay here for a few days before going home. The hotel is right on the beach, has pools, and there are good restaurants so we can just chill .Læs mere

  • Awful last day of tour

    5. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Today was supposed to be about sites mentioned by two writers - Pliny and Robert Harris. Pliny was admiral of the Roman fleet based at Misenum from where he described the stages of the eruption. Robert Harris started his book 'Pompeii ' in the Piscina Mirabilis, the cistern, big enough to provision to whole fleet with water, at the end of the aqueduct, also at Misenum and this was to be our first site. Misenum is in the Campo Flagrea to the northwest of Naples and the whole area is a caldera that sits on top of a giant magma chamber that is active and causes the ground to move up and down, through two or three metres. Yesterday there was an earthquake here, just 3.4 magnitude, but enough for them to close the archaeological sites especially those underground. So we drove around looking at anything Roman we could see and whilst we were in the open there was a violent thunderstorm with sheets of torrential rain for 20 mins. We were expecting rain today so were all wearing waterproofs and had brollies but they couldn't cope. We were all soaked so voted to give up and return to the hotel to dry out. Jamie is taking anyone who wants to go back into Pompeii site this afternoon but we prefer to wait for the sunshine tomorrow.Læs mere

  • Stabia

    4. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So today we drove south out of Pompeii to the next town along the coast, Stabia. This was famous for its very richly decorated high status shore-front villas, and as the place where Plini, admiral of the fleet , sailed to try and rescue people from the AD79 eruption, and him dying on the beach in the process.

    We went to two spectacular villas: villa Arianna, (named for a fresco of Ariadne and Theseus) and villa San Marco, Each built right onto the cliff overlooking the bay, and consisting of dozens of rooms covered with fabulous frescoes. Afterwards to a really good museum (museo libero d'orsi) full of fine artifacts from the villas, and after a quick visit to the modern seafront, to another museum (Terzigno) way up on the lower slopes of the volcano to see things from 3 more modest villas around it that were discovered from digging a quarry. These villas were primary involved in producing wine and olive oil but also had some decorated rooms.
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  • Herculaneum, Oplontis and Boscoreale

    3. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Another busy day visiting 3 locations close to Pompeii and all buried by the volcanic eruption.

    First was Herculaneum which was a town like Pompeii but different. Whereas Pompeii seems to have been a town on the make, Herculaneum seems to be more upper class and relaxed. It also suffered a different fate. Whereas Pompeii was buried under 40 metres of small light pebbles of pumice which suffocated anyone left behind, Herculaneum suffered a pyroclastic flow of superheated ash around 400c that killed anyone instantly. The ash then hardened to concrete but the buildings didn't collapse so the houses still have upper floors and preserved charred wood.

    The excavated area is much smaller than Pompeii so we were able to visit most of the open buildings:

    House of the wooden screen
    Central baths, women's section
    House of Neptune
    Grocery store with mezzanine and wine racks
    Workshop of the metal worker
    Arches to forum
    College of the Augustales
    Central baths, men's section
    Grand tavern
    House of the telephon
    Sacred area
    Ancient beach with skeletons of fugitive
    House of the stags
    House of the artist
    House of the black saloon
    Samnite house
    House of the bronze herm
    House of the mosaic atrium and undulating floor
    House of the tuscan colonnade
    Boat museum
    Antequarium/ museum.

    Second was a very large seaside villa in Oplontis that is still being excavated. It has a very large swimming pool and many rooms with frescoes in the 2nd style.

    Last stop was a small farmhouse where the main product was wine. It also had a lovely museum containing lots of information on daily life including burnt remains of food and drink that has been analysed and identified. It also has on display the bridal carriage recently excavated and restored as seen on a BBC programme.
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  • Paestum

    2. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Today we drove for an hour and a half south of Pompeii to a Greek town of Paestum. It was first founded in 800bc as a trading settlement and later grew into a planned Greek polis based on an organised grid system of roads. It flourished until overrun by the Lucanians around 400bc and then the Romans a century and a half later. Both adopted Greek culture and preserved much of the Greek monuments.

    The main features of the site are 3 magnificent Greek temples still standing to full height - some of the best preserved anywhere. But we were surprised to find that there are many other interesting ruins to see albeit not so well preserved. After Jamie's tour and explanations we spent another hour and a half wandering round on our own.

    This area is famous for its buffalo mozzarella so we had to try some for lunch. After lunch we had a couple of hours in the site museum and rewarded ourselves with yummy gelatos.

    Yesterday there were thunderstorms and rain which we managed to dodge. Today was sunny again but much cooler and very windy.
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  • Back to the museum

    1. oktober 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We went back to the Naples museum, this time as part of the tour, but they wanted to take ages talking in the huge gallery of pompeii sculpture, which didn't interest us. So we broke off and did it our way. We started in the gallery of roman glass, which was spectacular, then all the frescoes from the temple of Isis, followed by another wander through the main fresco gallery. Then objects of daily life in pompeii, which were really interesting, although anything wooden didn't survive so it was mostly bronze or ironware. There is a gallery of "Magna Graecia" covering the original Greek settlement of the region from 800bc and it's continuing influence on the Romans. Finally we flew through the prehistory section, which is the latest gallery opened but didn't seem very well thought out and presented.

    After lunch a tour of underground Naples to see the remains of the medieval city and roman city now several metres below current street level. With streets, roman roads, rows of shops and other buildings you can still walk around.
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  • What a day!

    30. september 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today was all about Pompeii. We started off at 9.00 with an hour's lecture from our archaeologist Jamie Sewell who has excavated here and is very good. We entered the site at 10.00 and got back to the hotel at 5.30 with just 45 min break to eat our packed lunch. It was exhausting but worth every minute. Jamie finished his tour about 3.30 but we couldn't resist popping into a few more houses on our walk back. The mosaics in the Naples museum are better than those left in situ but the frescoes still here are much better as they are just as fine and you can see them in context. And there are so many of them - far more than we were able to see 26 years ago when we were last here. Can't describe them all but for our benefit will try to list the places we saw:

    Amphitheatre
    House of Julia Felix
    House of Menander
    Triangular forum
    Great theatre
    Insula of chaste lovers (still being excavated)
    Forum
    Forum baths
    Villa of the Mysteries (home to frescoes on our bathroom wall)
    House of the vetti
    House of the faun
    House of Marco Lucrezio Frontone
    House of Sirico
    Stabian baths
    Thermopolium of Vertutius Placidus
    House of the marine Venus.

    We took over 70 photos and plan to go back to see more on Monday after the tour finishes.
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  • Arrival in Pompeii

    29. september 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    This morning we spent in a huge museum and gallery on top of the hill overlooking Naples, with works by painters like Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael, and Artemisia Gentileschi. Even though half of it was closed for refurbishing, it still took us a few hours to get round. The museum has a great collection of first class paintings from 13c to 18c from wealthy families like the Farnese and the Bourbon rulers.

    After that a local train from Naples to Pompeii, and meeting up with our tour after breakfast in the morning.
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  • Museum day

    28. september 2025, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we spent in the Naples museum, which is a really good museum; well-lit, beautiful artifacts, labels in Italian and English. We were impressed!

    We will be going again on our tour so we avoided the pompeii stuff, but there's lots of other things. One floor of Egyptian things which were very good, the Farnese collection of jewels, with lots of cameo work including a spectacular bowl made from red and white striped sardonyx with a white cameo. Then lots of mosaics, some from pompeii, which were the finest we have ever seen, made from tiny, tiny, tessera. We did look briefly at the Pompeii and Herculaneum frescoes to find the ones we have pictures of on our bathroom wall.

    One the way back we stopped to see a small excavated section of wall from the pre-roman Greek city of neopolis.
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  • Naples the ugly city

    27. september 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Piles of rubbish in every corner, and strewn over all the squares, graffiti on every surface, decayed and abandoned buildings, even the entrances of the new metro stations are kicked in and crazed. When we first went to jerez it felt tattered at the edges, and with fallen down, abandoned, buildings. But since then they have worked hard to improve and modernise. Here it feels that it's been this way so long they now just don't care. Very sad.

    This morning we walked along Spaccanapoli the street dividing the centre of the city, and visited two churches that sounded interesting. The first, Gesu Nuovo, is a very decorated Jesuit church with rich 16c frescoes everywhere . The second was completely opposite- a very plain austere church with some beautiful modern stained glass in different styles. The church was bombed in 1943 but was rebuilt in the original style. It has a famous cloister covered in colourful 17c majolica tiles - not to our taste but impressive. It has a small bit of original 14c fresco by Giotto or one of his pupils and an excavated Roman bathhouse very ruined.

    The next stop was a museum with a fabulous painting by Caravaggio with many other boring paintings.

    After lunch we went to the Duomo which contains the oldest baptistry in Europe with wonderful 5c mosaics - like the ones in Ravenna, a 13c church also with mosaics and a chapel with 13c frescoes.

    A tiring day among hordes of noisy tourists but worth it.
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  • Last day

    3. juni 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our flight home is not till 9.30 this evening so we have arranged a late checkout at 5.
    This morning we went to Split Archaeological Museum which holds the moveable finds from Salona and other nearby sites. Unfortunately they are having a special exhibition on monastic sites on the islands and most of the normal collection is inaccessible. The cloisters and garden are full of sarcophagi, tomb stones and other carving which we expected to be dull but turned out quite absorbing.

    We will spend the afternoon resting, maybe shopping and eating dinner before going to the airport.
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  • Salona

    3. juni 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Salona is the largest Roman site in Croatia. Just 10 miles from Split it was the main town and the birthplace of Diocletian. It is enormous and mostly we'll preserved but much has not been excavated. Like elsewhere the material has been reused for later buildings and there is even a house built on the amphitheatre. Yesterday we took a good 2 hours in the hot sun to walk from the top of the site to the bottom, visiting most of the major buildings. Much of the remains are from the 4c Christian period with temples converted to basilica but there are some sarcophagi from Christian martyrs killed by Diocletian at the end of the 3c. The theatre and amphitheatre are earlier - 1c and 2c. It was largely empty - we saw just one tour group walking briskly along the path not entering the buildings. There is not much attempt to make it attractive to tourists, many of the paths are overgrown but at least the explanatory panels were in Croation and English. We enjoyed it.Læs mere

  • Split sightseeing 2

    1. juni 2025, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The afternoon session had us return to see the cathedral itself (it was closed in the morning for mass). It was originally built by Diocletian as his mausoleum where he remained for a couple of hundred years before being chucked out when it was converted to a cathedral. The structure is intact with additions in the 7c. Then we went to see the palace cellars which are incredible. Dozens of rooms, large and small, just the service areas of the palace but still beautifully constructed. Some have still not been excavated as they were used as a rubbish dump for centuries. After all this exertion we sat on the harbour front in the sun and had a beer.Læs mere

  • Split sightseeing

    1. juni 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We left the ship at 9.00 this morning not sorry to be back on dry land. I think cruises of any size are just not our thing. We went to our apartment expecting to leave our bags until check in at noon but we're able to check in immediately. It's a lovely light filled room in an old house built against the Roman wall. It has everything thoughtfully provided and our own terrace.

    We split the sightseeing into morning and afternoon sessions, returning for a rest in the midday sun. This morning we ticked off the Treasury with some lovely medieval paintings, the cathedral crypt, the vestibule of the palace (where a quartet sang 4 part harmony a capella), Jupiter's temple and the imperial dining room. All of these are basically parts of Diocletian's palace that have been reused without knocking down the original buildings.
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  • Arrival in Split

    31. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today is our last day on the boat. The boat is excellent, and all the crew exemplary, however haven't really found the places we went to so interesting. Pretty or even beautiful, but not really interesting. Split however is, so far, much better than I imagined. The centre of the city is Roman emperor Diocletian's retirement palace and most of it is still extant. We just had a short walk around this afternoon, but even that felt good, with massive walls several stories high, and Roman mosaics still in the pavement!Læs mere

  • Milna, Brac

    30. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today has been a lazy day. Every morning we drop anchor in a bay somewhere for people to swim from the boat. Apart from one day the water has been a bit too choppy for us to enjoy a swim. Today it was particularly rough and breezy so only the strong swimmers went for a dip - mostly Australians.

    The village we are moored at is tiny and there is nothing to do here. We walked along the quayside in both directions, visited the church (nothing special) bought Tim a new baseball cap and spent the rest of the afternoon on the boat. Not unpleasant but pretty boring.
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  • Hvar

    29. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We first came to Hvar in 1971, on something of a special occasion. We liked it so much we came back a few years later. Then it was a rather sleepy Dalmatian town, now its on the superstar and super yacht circuit, so its changed a bit!

    We climbed the hill at the edge of town to look through the fort there. It dates to the 12c but with bits going back to the Illyrians in 500bc. It was rebuilt in the 16c after a thunderbolt hit the gunpowder magazine and blew it up. It has great views over the town and out across the islands. We then visited the cathedral and the Franciscan monastery to see the artifacts and art in its museum.

    Because of the number on ships trying to get into the port now, ours had to wait for a berth to come free so we had to go to shore in water taxis, but by the time we'd done sightseeing, it was moored, and we could just walk back on board.

    These days the town is pretty and attractive, despite the hoards of tourists, with nice Venetian architecture, palm trees and the wide central square.
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  • Vis

    28. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Vis is the Croatian island furthest from the dalmatian mainland. Until recently it was under military control and off limits to the public. Today's trip went around the island looking at the military installations, but we opted out: we've seen enough gun placements and submarine pens. Walked around the town for a bit but there isn't really much to see so made do with an ice cream and a glass of wine overlooking the harbour.Læs mere

  • Korcula

    27. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Korcula is one of the biggest and most populous of the Dalmatian islands. We arrived in time for lunch having had a swim stop on the way. Most people then went off on a ATV tour but we just had a walk around the town. It's called "little Dubrovnik" because of the walls, towers and turrets around it. It's quite small so easy to walk around. We managed to get to the local town museum on the dot of closing time, but they let us have 10 minutes before they closed. We took in the cathedral, and it's Tintoretto altar piece and painting of the annunciation, then the bishops treasury next door with paintings by Dalmatian artists from the 14th century up to the present day. The cathedral is quite small but really nice, and feels very welcoming. On the walk back to the boat we stopped at a bar overlooking the sea and had some local white called Grk. Its only grown and made on this island so quite rare. It's dry but full of flavour rather like an alsace traminer.Læs mere

  • Mljet

    26. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Engines started ar 6.30 so no lie in this morning. We cruised up the coast north of Dubrovnik past the Peljisac peninsula to Mljet - our first island stop. We stopped mid morning in a bay for a swim. The boat was anchored several hundred yards from the shore so it required going down steps at the side of the boat and launching into deep water. We gave it a miss today. Anyway the water is still quite cold. There were 5 other boats all doing the same thing. Then we sailed into the tiny port of Pomena, alongside 7 other boats and had to do the crossing from boat to boat to get to shore - just like on a Nile cruise.

    The main attraction here is a National Park with 2 beautiful lakes. We walked round the lake for 45 minutes then got a ferry across to an island in the lake. The island has a 12c church and Benedictine monastery. The church was lovely but the monastery closed for works.

    This evening is the Captain's dinner on board so we will have to be sociable.
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  • Embarkation

    25. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After breakfast we packed up and left the old town of Dubrovnik and took a taxi to the port. Our boat is called Queen Jelena and though only built 6 years ago is in the old style with masts and wood decks. So far everything about the boat is fine. Our cabin is a reasonable size, well fitted and the bathroom isn't poky. It is above deck and has 3 windows rather than portholes. There are only 25 people on the cruise - Americans, Australians and Brits. All greying some older, some younger. None obnoxious so far. The sundeck on top has more sunbeds than passengers so no early towel bagging required. The 3 course lunch was tasty. Only downer is the price of the wine in the bar - London pub prices - and you're not supposed to bring your own on board. We stay in port tonight and sail for our first island in the morning.Læs mere

  • Dubrovnik sightseeing

    24. maj 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We woke up this morning to beautiful sunshine so had breakfast on our roof terrace. We decided to do the walk around Dubrovnik's medieval walls before it go too hot or too busy so went there first. It is surprising how small the old town is but the walk takes one and a half hours and involves lots of steps up and down. We found it a bit strenuous- we are just not used to stairs these days and, after all, we are getting old.

    It is a beautiful setting and it is amazing how they have restored most of the buildings after the extensive damage from Serbian bombing in 1991.

    This afternoon we walked around visiting some churches and a monastery . The Dominican monastery contained some art including by titian (which seemed rather poor) and some modern works to replace things destroyed in the war. The church of st. blaise had splendid modern stained glass windows, also replacing destroyed ones. The cathedral has a triptych altarpiece by titian and on each column modern versions of the stations of the cross, which are very simple and very beautiful. The huge jesuit Church of St, ignatius is completely covered in frescoes, except for the modern ceiling which bare - the original having been lost in the Serbian war.
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