The Varanasi Ganga Aarti

Our guide and driver Rajeev has taken such care to make our trip with him amazing. We were supposed to go back to Delhi from Agra yesterday and part ways with him to take the night train to Varanasi and have a new driver here. Instead, Rajeev drove us the 8 hours+ to Varanasi from Agra so he could stay our guide and make sure our time here was perfect (and safe).

Tonight Rajeev arranged for an evening boat ride up and down the Ganges that then took us to a perfect viewing spot for the nightly spiritual ritual held at dusk called Ganga Aarti. Boats were packed together like a game of Tetris on the water, and thousands of people gathered on the ghat (steps) on the side of the river. Thousands of people travel here every day to take part in this very important ceremony. Fire is offered to Lord Shiva and the Ganges River. We watched as flowers and floating candles were put into the Ganges. It was incredible.

Before we settled down for the ceremony, our boat ride took us past Manikarnika ghat, which is the sacred Hindu cremation spot that is going 24-hours a day. Rajeev counted 13 funeral pyres burning this evening (and they also do electric cremation). The piles of wood stored in that area were impressive. I’ve shared a couple photos and it’s safe to look at them - there is nothing graphic in them.

We returned to our hotel in time to catch part of a wonderful traditional dance demonstration with incredible live music. This trip never ceases to amaze us with great surprises like this!Read more