• TheGoingNorths
  • Michael North
  • TheGoingNorths
  • Michael North

South America

6 weeks in South America: Bolivia, Peru, Argentina and Chile! Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    25 April 2026

    Eleven Hours in Columbia

    26 April, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Travel is a skill in addition to being an experience, and on this first leg of our journey to our starting point in Bolivia we were surely tested! Bolivia is not easy to get to, it requires at minimum two stops from the US (if you start in Denver). We'd booked a Denver --> Houston --> Bogota --> La Paz flight itinerary, and hit a snag in Houston where the captain of our flight had a family emergency, requiring a lengthy delay getting into Bogota. It's a long story involving a run through the Bogota airport, multiple flight rebookings that were made for the incorrect date and time by they airline, and a passport that didn't get returned, but in the end we got an unplanned-for passport stamp for Columbia, four hours of sleep in a hotel, and the sense that we added some travel skills to knowledge base.

    Our organized tour of Bolivia started at 6 pm on Sunday, April 26 and we arrived at the hotel at 3:45 pm. Phew! We were able to join our group of 13 travelers in La Paz We're on a National Geographic Journeys tour through G Adventures, which is a new company to us.
    Baca lagi

  • Exploring the Uyuni Salt Flats

    27 April, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    The Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia is probably the reason we're here. Melissa saw a photo in a book of the best 500 places to visit in the world and the next thing she knew she was searching for a tour package.

    Spanning over 10,000 square kilometers (it's larger than Connecticut!), this prehistoric dried lake bed is the world’s largest salt flat, blanketed in a thick, white crust that forms geometric hexagons across the ground. For perspective if you've been to the Bonneville Salt Flats like Melissa did as a child, this is more than 100 times larger. We're visiting in the dry season, and the endless white horizon creates a unique lack of depth perception, and our tour guide enjoyed setting us up into perspective-bending photos.

    Our first stop was the Train Cemetery, where locomotives and train cars were abandoned in the 1970s after decades of work and when truckers demanded an end to railways throughout South America. We then drove miles and miles into the flats, met with a Bolivian indigenous woman who showed us the burial ground of her "grandparents' grandparents" that included mummies over 800 years old. We also visited the cactus-covered Incahuasi Island in the center of the "salt sea." Our hotel is the Luna Salada, which means "Salty moon" and indeed our room is made of salt bricks! Even the mattress rests on a salt bed.
    Baca lagi

  • Playing on the Salt Flats

    28 April, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    After a full day yesterday of driving and seeing the extent of the salt flats, today was a day full of "photo op" stops as we played tourist on the Uyani Salt Flats. There are areas where the perspective is such that you can create scenes with cameras--such as a dinosaur attack with Michael attempting to rescue Melissa.

    We also lined up and had the jeeps that carried us out to the flats circle us while filming creating a fun video. And toward the late afternoon we sought out an area that was underwater. About one or two inches of water creates the world's larges mirror, reflecting images and is truly a delight to photograph. We stayed in the area to see the sun set with champagne.
    Baca lagi

  • Volcanic Soup and Cerro Rico

    29 April, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We made our way along a highway four hours to Potosi. The drive itself was scenic with plenty of llama herds and even the wild guanacos (a llama cousin) were in sight. Reaching over 13,000 feet at times on the drive we arrived Potosi in time for lunch.

    We tried a tasty, traditional soup called k’alapurka which is heated with a volcanic rock. Watching the hot stone make the soup immediately start to boil was definitely memorable—more engaging, honestly, than much of the sightseeing in the afternoon.

    We spent part of the day at the Casa Nacional de la Moneda, which tells the story of the silver that once made this city one of the wealthiest in the world. While the history is significant, the experience itself felt a little heavy and slow-paced for us. We wandered through town afterward—interesting to see, but not somewhere we lingered long.
    Baca lagi

  • The Natural Elements of La Paz

    1 Mei, Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We left Sucre this morning on a flight to La Paz to finish our tour. After getting collected at the airport we got a box lunch and jumped in a van headed for the Valley of the Moon and the Valley of the Souls.

    Both reminded us of the badlands of South Dakota and also some of the Utah national parks. Lovely spires and craggy scenery.
    Baca lagi

  • Exploring La Paz

    2 Mei, Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    La Paz is a city that unfolds vertically, so we set out to explore it than from above. We spent the morning riding the Mi Teleférico, a series of 10 gondola transit paths gliding silently over the sprawling red-brick buildings that cling to the valley walls. From that vantage point, the scale of the city becomes clear—dense, dramatic, and framed by the peaks of the Andes. We’re used to gondolas of course, but using them as a transit system in the absence of snow was a new experience!

    Back on the ground, we were guided through the colonial streets of the old town, where narrow lanes open into lively plazas. At Plaza Murillo, the political heart of Bolivia, we saw the facades of government buildings and a steady rhythm of daily life—locals passing through and a plethora of pigeons.

    We visited the National Museum of Ethnography and Folklore, which houses collections of textiles, featherwork, ceramics, and intricate masks.

    We wrapped up the day at the Mercado de las Brujas (the witch’s market). Stalls were filled with dried herbs, potions, and traditional remedies, alongside offerings used in Aymara rituals—everything from amulets for luck to more curious items like dehydrated llama fetuses meant for spiritual protection.
    Baca lagi

  • La Paz and El Alto Neighborhoods

    3 Mei, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    After a fun Bolivian 6-course meal with wine pairings last night we got to sleep in and then took a tour of the “cholets” and the enormous Sunday market in El Alto. El Alto is the city above La Paz, so it’s well over 13,000 feet in elevation and has nearly 2 million residents.

    Although most of El Alto is not wealthy, the few that are demonstrate their wealth and business acumen through the building of cholets. The word is a fusion of “chola” the word for an indigenous Bolivian lady and “chalet” the French villa.

    These huge 10+ story homes have themes—transformers, Batman, and even the Titanic.

    We then stopped at the other end of the wealth spectrum and saw El Alto’s version of the projects. Public housing developed by the government in 2023, brightly painted by artist Mamani.
    Baca lagi

  • On to Peru!

    4 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We flew to Lima the night before Day and have joined a “Peru Hop” tour that is anything but slow-paced. We left Lima at 5 a.m. and didn’t really stop moving until we reached Huacachina late in the day—with Paracas in between. It’s a popular route, and we are the more “seasoned” travelers on a bus full of very energetic younger folks. Thankfully, we were joined by our friends James and Carina, which made the whole experience more fun.

    Our first stop was a boat trip out to the Ballestas Islands, often compared to a mini Galápagos, though having been to the Galapagos this is a stretch. The wildlife included sea lions, a lone penguin, and more birds than we could count. From there, we stopped at a vineyard visit to learn about (and sample) pisco, followed by a quick lunch before heading on again.

    By the time we reached Huacachina, the pace hadn’t let up. The desert oasis is stunning, but the main event was dune buggying and sandboarding. Racing up and down the massive dunes made us wonder how much our travel insurance would cover for medical evacuation, and Michael was brave and slid down the dunes on a board which was equal parts exhilarating and slightly terrifying. Not exactly relaxing—but definitely memorable!
    Baca lagi

  • The Nasca Lines

    5 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Today we traded solid ground for the skies above the Nasca Lines, climbing into a 6-seater plane for a 30-minute flight. From the air, the scale of the lines finally makes sense—massive geoglyphs etched into the desert, only fully visible from above. We spotted the famous hummingbird, monkey, and spider, each one remarkably crisp despite being up to 2,500 years old. The pilot banked left and right over each figure so everyone could get a good view, which made for great photos.

    It’s one of those experiences that feels slightly surreal—hovering over something so ancient and mysterious, wondering how and why these enormous designs were created in the first place.

    And then came the comedown: the long, long bus ride back to Lima. Not the easiest day logistically, but worth it for a once-in-a-lifetime view.
    Baca lagi

  • Making our Way to Machu Picchu

    6 Mei, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    After an extremely long day yesterday we arrived at about 1 am to our hotel in Lima and got a solid 7 hours of sleep before heading to the airport for a flight to Cusco because we are bound for Machu Picchu!

    We arrived in Cusco in the afternoon and found the market to get a late lunch. We then walked the city core area taking in the colonial Spanish buildings built right on top of the Inca empire’s capital. Cusco was full of tourists and people selling all things llama and alpaca.
    Baca lagi

  • Sacred Valley of the Incas

    7 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    What a great day! We started early from Cusco and headed toward Ollantaytambo. We hired a driver who just happened to be a archeologist, had excellent English and wanted to tell us about every ancient site we checked out.

    Located between Cusco and Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley of the Incas is a fertile, scenic river valley in the Peruvian Andes that served as the agricultural, spiritual, and administrative heart of the Inca Empire. Created by the Urubamba River the valley acted as the primary "breadbasket" supplying corn, quinoa, and potatoes. Dotted with impressive archaeological sites like Pisac and Ollantaytambo, the valley demonstrates the advanced architectural and engineering skills of the Inca civilization. There were so many tourists, but the scenery was beautiful, especially the agricultural terraces.

    We finished our day with a train ride to Aguas Calientes (hot waters) where we made a mad dash to the Machu Picchu ticket office to secure tickets for Saturday. More on that later, but let’s just say it was a big downer after such a lovely day.
    Baca lagi

  • Machu Picchu Machinations

    8 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    So Machu Picchu is on many people’s lists of “we must see.” Unfortunately there are oodles of people trying to do just that. We had been unable to secure online tickets 4 months out for the most popular route when we planned our trip so we purchased a guided tour that included this route. But about 6 weeks ago we heard from the tour company that the Ministry of Culture had changed the rules and guides could not purchase tickets, we would need to be in the town it is located in a full day in advance to line up at 6 am to get tickets.

    So we rebooked hotels and rearranged the schedule only to get a message the day before that the rules had changed again and now you need to get tickets 2 days in advance (this is true, we checked). Our timing was terrible and we had no wiggle room in the schedule this late. So…in Amazing Race style we literally ran from the train stop to get in line for the 8 tickets available but missed the window. We were able to get a route, but not the one we wanted.

    Our guide arranged today to somehow get us in and to put us in a private tour (we’d been with a group)! So although we have had a very quiet day in Aguas Calientes we are anticipating a great tour. Perseverance!
    Baca lagi

  • Machu Picchu in the Sun

    9 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Finally after weeks of wrangling travel plans and the last minute dash to get tickets we arrived at Machu Picchu! We took the bus up the winding road, met our guide and made our way through the various checkpoints and somehow did land on the popular circuit 2A.

    We had a lovely sunny day with few clouds so weather-wise we were fortunate. But unfortunately as Melissa started up the steps in the heat she became dizzy and lightheaded making the visit something to endure. We think a bout with tummy issues earlier resulted in not enough food for breakfast and the hot day compounded it 😔 The guide was great though allowing us to take our time and found Melissa bits of shade. And tomorrow we get to go in again on the circuit 3A so another chance, yeah!
    Baca lagi

  • Round Two: Machu Picchu

    10 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our second visit to Machu Picchu began a little differently as Michael and James wanted to hike to the site (about 90 minutes) and Melissa and Carina preferred the bus. We met at the top at 10 am for a Circuit 3A visit.

    This circuit is very restricted, as only 300 people a day get to access it because it includes a hike up Waynapicchu mountain. We decided to forego a guide this time and were able to visit a different portion of the site, the lower ruins before winding our way toward the start of the hike.

    Thankfully we had cooler weather today, but it was very cloudy making the views less than ideal. The four of us set out and one returned early—Melissa. There just wasn’t enough recovery time from yesterday’s issues and, well let’s just say that while Michael loved this challenging hike, this was in no way a hike that Melissa would enjoy. Steep, narrow, tall stone steps all the way up. More than 2,000 of them—essentially vertical. After about getting in 20% of the way Melissa decided she would have made a lousy Inca. Michael helped her get back to the start and then sprinted to meet the other two near the top getting there in just 35 minutes!

    We finished up on time for lunch and then took the 4.5 hour train ride back to Cusco arriving at 10:30 pm at our hotel. We have a 3 am pickup for Rainbow Mountain tomorrow 😬
    Baca lagi

  • Snowfall on Rainbow Mountain

    11 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Michael has been our lead investigator for the Rainbow Mountain trek, and was really looking forward to it. The trip involved a 2:50 am hotel pickup, 2-hour van ride to breakfast. Another 1.5 hour ride to the start of the trek. About 2 hours trekking to get to see the mountain at 17,000 feet of elevation. A beautiful “rainbow” mountain made of different minerals, then you make your way back arriving at your hotel at 3 pm. Phew!

    So no surprise that Michael bounded out of bed after 4 hours of sleep and was ready to go!

    But we’d had heavy rain in Cusco the night before (that we trudged through heading to the hotel from the train station) so when the sun came up on our journey to rainbow mountain we were suddenly aware that there was only going to be white mountains to see—no rainbows.

    An unexpected snowstorm made the roads slippery in rear wheel drive vans, so we were encouraged to get out and “enjoy hiking a while”’up the road (Melissa suspects they needed to lighten the vans to get them up the hill!).

    After a lot of trying to figure out what to do with disappointed tourists our guides finally asked whether we wanted to hike around some more in the snow/mud or head back to Cusco. It was James’ birthday we let him decide for our group and we headed back to Cusco for naps and a late birthday dinner.
    Baca lagi

  • Back to the Start in Lima

    13 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We said goodbye to James and Carina, who were headed home via Panama. We had a reasonable wake up time and headed to the Cusco airport for a flight to Lima. We start a tour of Argentina and Chile in a few days so wanted a bit of a breather before that and we hadn’t really had a chance to see Lima.

    At 10 million people Lima is bustling, but we choose to position ourselves south of the city in San Isidro. It’s a very clean, upscale suburb and after our flight we scouted out a park for Michael to run in. It came complete with turtles (Michael’s spirit animal) and so we knew it was a good fit. We saw lots of folks out enjoying the afternoon with families and two young ladies getting their photos taken for their quinceañeras (big parties when girls turn 15). A lovely relaxing day!
    Baca lagi

  • Lima Highlights Tour

    13 Mei, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today we slowed the pace a little and explored the historic heart of the city on foot. Our walking tour took us by grand plazas, colonial buildings, ornate churches, and streets packed with history. The contrast between old Spanish architecture and the constant buzz of modern Lima (working class is how our guide described it) made this city of 10 million feel different than the smaller places we’ve visited so far.

    One small victory for the day: we successfully figured out Lima’s transit bus system. That may not sound exciting, but navigating a massive city using local transit always feels like an accomplishment when you’re traveling. Armed with questionable confidence, Melissa’s limited Spanish skills and Google Maps, we made our way across the city to Miraflores.

    The reward was worth it. The coastal paths of Miraflores were absolutely beautiful, with cliffs dropping dramatically to the Pacific Ocean below. We spent the afternoon walking along the shoreline parks, watching paragliders drift over the ocean, surfers far below, and locals out enjoying the cool sea air.
    Baca lagi

  • Last Day in Peru

    14 Mei, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    To fill our last day in Peru we decided to head south from where we are staying in San Isidro and walk the coastal paths again going from the cities of Miraflores to Barranco to Chorrillos. We put more than 9 miles in and were impressed at how lovely these areas were, especially Miraflores and Barranco. Super clean pedestrian walkways, gorgeous gardens, shopping districts and lots of people out enjoying the day.

    Barrancos has a lot of street art we enjoyed, and we also walked by the medical college that had a display honoring their graduates that died during the pandemic (Peru had the worst rate of death illness of any country in terms of percentage of population 😔).

    Now for an early night. Tomorrow we leave for Argentina!
    Baca lagi

  • Off to Argentina!

    16 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our day was spent getting from Lima to Buenos Aires, a 4.5 flight that was delayed by about an hour and a 2-hour time change made the day come to an end quickly.

    Lima’s airport is very new, but lacks a road or transit to it making getting to the airport a real slog backing up traffic through disadvantaged communities, while Buenos Aires (AEP) was about the easiest trip we’ve made through an international destination airport. Friendly immigration officers, easy entry, and a few steps to an Uber pickup within minutes right at the curb.

    We start our 15-day tour with OAT tomorrow. We think there are just 10 of us visiting northern Argentina and Chile.
    Baca lagi

  • Buenos Aires Orientation

    16 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Close to 16 million people live in the area of Buenos Aires (3 to 4 million in the city proper) where it is very much fall. Our puffy jackets have been getting some use.

    Our tour leader for the next two weeks met us at noon and we went on a little orientation walk and then we went out on our own until a group dinner that evening.

    We popped by an overlook to the famous Recoleta cemetery and visited one of the city’s most famous book stores, that was jammed with people on a Saturday.

    Dinner was at a steak house (what else?) complete with Malbec wine (yum!) and Dulce de Leche ice cream.
    Baca lagi

  • Buenos Aires Snapshots

    17 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Buenos Aires is a huge city, so we just scratched the surface today, starting with the Plaza de Mayo where the city protests. Key to this plaza is the “abuelas” (the grandmothers) who during the dictatorship 40 years ago kept questioning the disappearance of 30,000 of their sons, daughters and grandchildren.

    We had the opportunity to hear firsthand from a grandson of a citizen who likely helped the dictatorship “disappear” people from his university and made a documentary of his experience.

    We chose to get some steps in the afternoon visiting a reserve along the river and port in the city. There were lots of people out enjoying a relatively warm fall day.
    Baca lagi

  • On to Argentina’s Rugged North

    18 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    After a few nights in Buenos Aires we packed up and flew to Salta, landing and immediately getting into a van for a four-hour ride to Cafayate. We made stops along the way in the Quebrada de Las Conchas, an arid gorge carved by a river over time. The landscape is otherworldly, yet also familiar reminding us of parts of the American Southwest.

    Lunch was at a local place where Melissa sampled locro, a local stew made with beans, corn, tomatoes and beef, which was delicious.
    Baca lagi

  • Llama Drama, Cafayate Landscapes and Wine

    19 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Our little group had some excitement today when a llama literally attacked us! We have seen hundreds if not thousands of llamas, but while out today in a national heritage site viewpoint we saw a llama running full tilt toward us. It nearly mowed down one of our guides and then aggressively ran at group members, eventually forcing us back into our bus! Melissa got great video of the "llama drama," and no one was hurt, but what a strange experience!

    Other than llama antics, today was all about the landscapes around Cafayate. We started with hikes through La Yesera and Los Colorados, surrounded by dramatic canyons, towering red rock walls, giant cacti, and layers of colorful stone shaped over millions of years. Northern Argentina really knows how to put on a show.

    After some free time back in Cafayate, we visited the El Esteco winery to learn about high-altitude winemaking. The vineyards here sit thousands of feet above sea level, producing bold reds (including Melissa's favorite Malbec) and the region’s signature torrontés white wine.
    Baca lagi

  • Journey to Cachi

    20 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today was all about the journey as we traveled from Argentina’s wine country toward the remote desert town of Cachi. The scenery changed dramatically along the way — lush vineyards slowly giving way to rugged red rock landscapes and towering mountains. We followed a stretch of the legendary Ruta 40, Argentina’s answer to Route 66, winding through spectacular valleys and mountain passes alongside the Calchaquí River.

    Along the way we made a few stops. One with an 80-year-old woman who lives alone in a remote area with a killer view. Another stop was when we found a couple of men harvesting sweet onions and we went out into the field to learn about their work and even helped them gather up several loads of onions!

    We stopped for lunch in the tiny village of Molinos before continuing on to Cachi, a small colonial town beneath the Nevado de Cachi mountains. After arriving, we walked its streets taking in the adobe houses and plaza.
    Baca lagi

  • Huge cacti, tamales and gauchos

    21 Mei, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    Today we drove back to Salta, completing a loop we started two days ago. We started with a ceramics class, making Inca crosses, and then loaded into the van and crossed through Los Cardones National Park, where enormous cardon cacti rise out of the dry valley floor against a backdrop of rugged mountains. The fog hung low over the landscape, giving everything a dramatic atmosphere. We spotted several guanacos along the way, although the condors stayed hidden in the clouds.

    From there, we climbed the winding Cuesta del Obispo pass, reaching elevations above 11,000 feet. As we gained altitude, the temperatures dropped sharply and we even encountered snow at the higher peaks but not sticking to the road.

    It was certainly our coldest day, compounded by the heater not working in the bus. We stopped for lunch and a tamale making session and a dance demonstration, which helped us warm up a bit before we arrived Salta.
    Baca lagi