Day 13 Swept into the Szechenyi Circle

Today we ventured out on our own to Széchenyi, the famous thermal bath house in Budapest. Donna wasn’t too keen on the idea of “just sitting in a hot tub,” but she humored me for this one. We called an Uber, and about fifteen minutes later we pulled up to this enormous yellow palace of a place.

Széchenyi is one of the largest thermal baths in Europe. Built in 1913 and fed by natural hot springs beneath Budapest, it’s been a place for locals and travelers to unwind for more than a century.

Inside, we were greeted by a woman who walked us through the options — and somehow she and Donna instantly bonded over the Savannah Bananas. I still don’t understand how baseball entered the conversation, but they were laughing like old friends.

We chose the private package, which included fruit cups, cocktails, tea, access to the private arboretum, and a six o’clock couples massage. It also came with a private cabin — a small changing room with a wristband key entry, a locker, and a safe so we could secure our valuables. Everything felt simple, clean, and exactly what two travelers needed.

Once we changed into our robes, we headed straight outside.

The Outdoor Pools

The main outdoor pool is massive, steaming in the cold air, surrounded by that iconic yellow Neo-Baroque architecture. One pool had concentric circles — a kind of human roundabout. Everyone was walking in a giant loop, and once we stepped in, we were instantly swept into the current. You can’t help but smile and laugh as you spin around with strangers from all over the world.

Indoor Pools

After the outdoor whirlpool fun, we ventured inside. Warm, echoing rooms with stone columns, high ceilings, and mineral-rich water that felt like something out of ancient Rome. For a moment, it really did feel like we were living in the time of Caesar.

And what struck me most was the lack of judgment. I’m a large man and could easily lose forty or fifty pounds. But none of that mattered. Every body type was represented. Nobody was performing. Nobody was trying to look perfect. We were all just humans soaking, relaxing, and enjoying the moment.

Fruit, Cocktails & Quiet

Eventually we made our way into the private arboretum — quiet, warm, peaceful. We sat with our fruit, cocktails, and tea, letting the afternoon drift a little slower. A soft pause before the next part of the day.

The Massage

After our drinks we made our way to the massage meeting location. A staff member led us down hallways that felt like a cross between a church and a palace — high ceilings, ornate details, the kind of place you usually only see in movies.

We waited in a luxurious hallway until our masseuses arrived and greeted us warmly.
Then we drifted away for 45 minutes of heaven.

Traveling is wonderful — but it’s also hard work. We needed this moment.

More Explorations

After our massages we still had time to explore the steam rooms, the cold plunge, the salt inhalation room, and more indoor pools. This place is huge — so huge that I actually got lost. Donna later told me she saw me walk past the same set of glass doors three different times before I finally went through them.

Returning Home to the Rinda

We finally closed the place down a little before 8:00 PM. Our Uber ride back was a story in itself — but we made it to the Rinda just as people were finishing dinner.

We assumed the kitchen was closed. Teo and Yuri greeted us warmly, and we asked if they had anything simple — maybe soup and bread. Daniel, the maître d’, noticed us and gave us a look that said, “Don’t worry.”

A few minutes later, out came a full main course.

This is why people cruise on Viking.

We had a lovely day at the spa, and when we returned to our Rinda home, our Viking family wrapped us back in comfort. The next morning we stayed on board — blogging, relaxing, letting yesterday’s warmth settle into our bones. After lunch, we’ll wander the market. We’ve got time today — just be back by 9:30 PM.En savoir plus