Day 03 More to do in Vaduz

After walking across the Rhine River into Switzerland, we turned back toward Vaduz — there was still more to explore, and only one full day to do it. Our next stop was the Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, the country’s national museum for modern and contemporary art. Opened in 2000, the museum is known for its sleek black basalt façade and its strong emphasis on conceptual and multimedia work. It partners with the nearby Hilti Art Foundation, giving tiny Liechtenstein a surprisingly impressive art footprint.

Inside, we wandered through a playful, interactive space clearly designed for “kids of all ages,” which Donna and I took as a personal invitation. We explored exhibitions featuring the bold text-and-video works of Tony Cokes, the conceptual media of Henrik Olesen, and even a Warhol Marilyn Monroe. It’s always fun to see a Warhol overseas, but once you’ve stood in front of the full MoMA collection, these European cameos feel a bit like his more introverted cousin.

In the museum today, I met a gentleman who instantly caught my eye — not because of anything he said, but because of what was hanging from his shoulder: a vintage 1950s Leica, the kind of camera that whispers stories before the shutter even clicks. I was drawn to it like a moth to a beautifully machined flame. We struck up a conversation, two strangers connected by glass and gears. He told me he collects old Leicas, each one with its own history baked into the brass. He graciously let me take his portrait, the camera resting against him like an old friend. Moments like that remind me why I still love photography — not just the images, but the people and the stories that come with them.

As we were leaving the museum, Donna mentioned she could really go for a Coca-Cola. Fate stepped in. The sushi restaurant tucked inside the museum happened to serve her new favorite soda — Fritz-Kola — a tiny German company started in 2003 by two friends in Hamburg who apparently decided cola should taste bolder and wake the dead with caffeine. So we grabbed a table, shared a fresh salad, sipped our Fritz-Kolas, and enjoyed a quiet little lunch before heading back into the day.

The next stop on our plan was the Altes Kino, the old Vaduz theater, where a short documentary plays about life inside Vaduz Castle. Since the palace is strictly private and not open to visitors, the film is the closest any of us will get to understanding the rhythms of life inside those stone walls. We were early, so we made a strategic detour into Dolce, the local chocolate shop glowing like a Christmas ornament. A couple of sweet treats later, we crossed the street to the theater and settled into vintage red velvet seats. The film was surprisingly informative — a behind-the-scenes look at restoration work, palace traditions, and the daily life of the principality’s ruling family. Even fairy-tale castles need maintenance schedules.

From there, we caught a local bus out to the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, the Prince’s royal winery. It’s only two stops from downtown; we probably could have walked, but by afternoon our feet had filed a formal protest. Traveling off-season has its perks — our 3:00 PM wine tasting became a private session. The young woman leading us through the experience was lovely, offering a thoughtful tour and a generous lineup of wines. Even the ice wine won both Donna and me over. But with only a backpack and carry-on each, we had nowhere to stash a bottle. (At this point, even the Q-tips are fighting for space.)

We walked back toward town hoping for another dinner at Adler Vaduz, which we adored the night before. But the restaurant side was already closed, leaving only the small café open. They kindly directed us to a nearby Italian place — and we’re fairly certain Walter owns this one too. A couple of simple pastas and a glass of wine later, we were fully convinced that Vaduz does not know how to serve a bad meal.

From there, the evening shifted into travel mode. We needed to be up early for a long run of buses and trains carrying us toward Milan, Italy. So we headed back to the hotel, took long showers, and stole one more look at the palace glowing above the town — that quiet, watchful guardian of Vaduz. Then our heads hit the pillows, grateful for the day behind us and ready for the miles ahead.

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