• Day 05 It’s Donna’s Turn

    11月27日, イタリア ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    Donna found a new happy place in Milan, Italy — and it was only a few doors down from our Airbnb. Nail Fata.
    Last night when we arrived, everything on the street was dark and shuttered. But this morning, after a quick breakfast croissant at the café, our first mission was to stop in and see if Donna could secure an appointment.

    Success.
    She booked a 5:00 PM slot — which meant we were free to explore Milan for the day.

    As mentioned in a previous post, I had already been pampered with a full-service haircut experience back in Vaduz. Donna, on the other hand, was overdue. It had been over five weeks since her last manicure, and her nails were politely suggesting, “It’s time.”

    Back home, Donna is a loyal Sofia Nails customer in East Windsor, CT, where Amy — her favorite manicurist — always knows exactly what Donna wants. Before this trip, Amy even designed a clever angled pattern on her nails so that as they grew out, there would be no sharp half-moon line announcing to the world that a manicure was overdue. Genius.

    With the help of one of the ladies acting as interpreter, Donna explained to the manicurist at Nail Fata that she wanted the same design recreated. The goal was clear; the question was whether Milan artistry could match East Windsor precision.

    While Donna settled in, I lingered outside taking photos through the window — part street photographer, part husband smart enough not to interrupt a woman in her beauty-zone. Inside, Donna was at the manicure table having what looked like a Formula 1 pit crew session on her fingertips. The precision! The teamwork!

    If my barber in Vaduz was an artist, these women were micro-engineers.

    I kept snapping photos, watching Donna’s smile get bigger with each brush stroke. The other women in the shop were clearly in their own happy places too. Milan has that effect on people. This city doesn’t treat style as a luxury — here, style is oxygen. It’s in the clothes, the architecture, the attitudes… and yes, in the nail studios.

    The manicurist worked carefully, occasionally referring to the reference photos, perfecting the lines and angles of Amy’s original design. When she finished, she took a photo of her own work — a new design she could now add to her portfolio. It took longer than usual, but Donna was genuinely happy with the result.

    Still, she knew one thing for certain:
    Amy in East Windsor will always be her go-to for the perfect mani/pedi.

    But for today?
    Donna had her Milan moment — and she glowed all the way home.

    Hint: You will need to look at all of the images to get to the last one to see the final results. Add reply note to tell Donna what you think of the look.

    #Milan #NailFata #DonnaTime #ItalyDays #TravelMoments #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #ManicureInMilan
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  • Day 05 Exploring Milan

    11月27日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 34 °F

    When we finally woke up and opened the windows to daylight, we saw Milan for what it truly is — bright, beautiful, and full of character. Our late-night arrival had shown us only shadowed streets and tired impressions, but the morning light pulled back the curtain. Suddenly, we were in Europe again.

    Even the door-locking mechanism in our apartment fascinated me — a clever, over-engineered system clearly designed to slow down anyone trying to break in. It took both of us a minute to figure out how to escape the apartment, which is always a good way to feel like seasoned travelers.

    We walked to a nearby café for breakfast, then over to Nail Fata to set up Donna’s appointment later in the day. From there, we hopped onto the underground metro and headed toward the more touristy heart of Milan. A street-tour guide convinced us to join a combined museum and cathedral tour — and honestly, it was worth every euro to skip the long lines and have someone knowledgeable bring the story of the Duomo to life.

    Inside and out, the Duomo di Milano was breathtaking. No photograph can prepare you for it. The façade rises like a forest of marble spires, each carved with impossible detail. Our guide explained how construction began in the 1300s and continued for centuries, which suddenly made sense as we walked beneath towering stained glass and past sculptures tucked into every niche. The entire structure feels alive — ancient yet somehow always becoming.

    Then came the climb.
    We made our way all the way to the tippy top of the cathedral. The walk upward was pure wonder — sculpture after sculpture revealing itself at eye level, as though the architects assumed people would eventually climb this high. Donna, who does not love heights, deserves full honors for making it to the summit. Her main concern, hilariously enough, wasn’t the elevation but whether our extra travel pounds would cause the 600-year-old building to crumble. I assured her it had been standing for centuries. She shot back, “Yeah… and it can fall down at any time now.”

    Touché.

    I held her hand as we crossed the rooftop pathways toward the exit door, a quiet moment suspended above the city. Then came the long spiral descent — narrow stone steps, polished by generations of feet, echoing with our laughter and relief.

    We took the underground back toward the Airbnb, and more importantly, back to Nail Fata for Donna’s appointment (see Day 05: It’s Donna’s Turn). Later, we grabbed an Uber to Eataly, that wonderful hybrid of elegant grocery store and restaurant. Dinner was excellent — fresh, flavorful, and exactly what a long day of walking, climbing, and awe requires.

    One final Uber home, one last practice run with the apartment door lock, and then we tried to get to bed early. Tomorrow begins our next challenge: figuring out how to get to Monaco.

    #Milan #DuomoDiMilano #ExploringItaly #TravelAdventures #VikingJourney #EuropeanDays #MilanoStyle #ArtAndArchitecture #FindPenguins #OnwardToMonaco
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  • Day 04 Tired & Hungry in Milano

    11月26日, イタリア ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    After the long travel day from Vaduz — a day that felt like a trilogy of trains, sidewalks, and “Are we going the right way?” moments — Donna and I rolled into Milan absolutely wiped out. At this point in the trip, our pace officially qualifies us for The Amazing Race: Senior Edition. We didn’t need culture or fashion or grand architecture. We needed dinner. And a pillow. Preferably in that order.

    Our Airbnb host pointed us toward a local pizza place just a couple of blocks away. Easy mission. We followed our stomachs straight to Alice’s Pizza — a fast-food style franchise we later spotted all over the city. But let me say this clearly: this was not your typical franchise disappointment. This was, “Wow… why is this so good?” pizza. The crust was thin and firm, the bread had this wonderful almost-but-not-quite-explainable flavor, and the sauce and toppings fused into something far better than two exhausted travelers deserved.

    While we ate, a young woman at the table across from us struck up a conversation — energetic, friendly, the kind of person who genuinely loves her city and wants you to love it too. She gave us a handful of restaurant recommendations for our visit. I feel terrible that I forgot her name, but we were running on fumes and melted cheese. Her kindness, though, stuck with us.

    Before heading out, I took a few photos — the workers behind the counter tossing slices like artwork, the glorious display of pizzas, the storefront glowing like a beacon of salvation to the tired and hungry. Then we made our way back to the Airbnb, squeezed ourselves into the tiny elevator (Italy is apparently designed for people the size of espresso cups), and crashed. Hard. Pillows never had a chance.

    Today was long, messy, funny, and unforgettable. We traveled from a quiet morning in Vaduz to the vibrant energy of Milan, crossing borders, landscapes, and several personal limits of patience. But ending the day with unexpectedly great pizza, a kind stranger, and the soft thud of our heads hitting fresh pillows felt like a small reward for pushing through. Travel isn’t always glamorous — most days it’s more perseverance than postcard — but it’s these tiny human moments that make the journey worth it.

    Tomorrow… we explore Milan.

    #Milano #TravelLife #PizzaInItaly #AlicePizza #TiredTravelers #AmazingRaceEnergy #FindPenguins #EuroAdventure #OnTheWayToBarcelona #365DaysOfTravel
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  • Day 04 Good-bye Vaduz, on to Milan

    11月26日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    It was perfectly fitting — almost scripted — that when I woke up early and opened the hotel curtains, soft snow was drifting around the Vaduz Castle. Our time in Liechtenstein now officially had all the elements of a Hallmark movie: a tiny alpine capital, Christmas decorations going up, and now a light snowfall over the castle on the hill. I headed downstairs for a cappuccino and some blogging while Donna caught a little more sleep. Today was a travel day, and we needed the energy.

    We did a self-checkout from the hotel and dragged our carry-ons, backpacks, and CPAP machines over the cobblestone streets toward the bus stop. The wait was short. The local bus carried us to Schaan-Vaduz Station, the main rail connection for the principality. From there, we managed to catch an earlier train to Zürich HB — a nice bonus. Once in Zürich, we felt like old pros. We’ve been through this station before, and it’s always reassuring to return to a place that feels familiar.

    We had a bit of time before our train to Milan, so we ducked into a café perfectly — almost suspiciously — named “Oscars.” Since that’s our grandson’s name, it was a no-brainer. I ordered the Oscar’s Special. We settled in with hot chocolates and croissants and quietly claimed a table for over two hours. We made sure to order more than one round and left a healthy tip. We were definitely not the only two people there obviously “killing time.”

    Once on the train, life slipped into a calm rhythm. Mountains glided past the window, the rails offered their steady clickity-clack, and occasionally a passing train gave a powerful WOOOSH that shook the windows. A peaceful 3+ hour ride — a rare, built-in moment to simply breathe.

    Then came Chiasso, the Swiss–Italian border station where customs officers board and crews switch. Time seemed to pause. An announcement told everyone to take out their passports. Donna placed hers neatly on the tray table. I held mine in my hand like a peace offering. Several agents walked by… and kept right on walking.

    Through the open doors between train cars, I could see a young man being thoroughly questioned. The officers had him empty his entire backpack — every item examined as though it might reveal the plot of a spy novel.

    Naturally, I assumed they were on to us.
    If they asked us to open our luggage, we were doomed — it was packed so tightly it would have exploded like a car in a James Bond 007 chase scene, taking out the customs agents and forcing us to rely on our MI6 skills as we leapt from the moving train.

    But none of that happened. They ignored us completely.

    As glamorous as that imaginary scene was, I was oddly disappointed that our passports never got checked. Perhaps that’s one of the quiet advantages of being an older white tourist couple from America — we apparently radiate “harmless.” Still, we were relieved our cover story held. Travel Rule #17:
    Look the part, play the part. If you believe it… they’ll believe it.

    By the time we arrived in Milan, the sun was setting. We had a 20–30 minute walk ahead of us, dragging our luggage through dark, unfamiliar streets. It wasn’t the roughest area we’ve ever walked, but our radar was tuned to full awareness. And we were tired.

    At last, we reached our Airbnb. The elevator was hilariously tight — our luggage and our bodies barely fit. Another sardine would’ve been a deal-breaker. But it carried us upward, and that was all we needed.

    On our floor, our host Livia greeted us warmly, walked us through the apartment details, had us sign the standard rental agreement, and pointed us toward Alice Pizza for a simple dinner before collapsing into bed.

    And, just before reaching the Airbnb, Donna paused at a nail salon window. She didn’t say anything… but something was definitely being considered. I’ve been married long enough to recognize that look.

    A long day of trains, borders, snow, and new streets — and tomorrow, Milan awaits.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #TravelDay #ZürichHB #Chiasso #MilanArrival #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #TrainTravel #EuropeByRail
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  • Day 03 Wines of Liechinstein

    11月25日, リヒテンシュタイン ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    I’m still deep in catch-up mode with these FindPenguins posts — today is actually Friday, December 5th, and it’s almost impossible to believe that only ten days ago Donna and I were standing in the crisp afternoon air, tasting wines at the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, the royal family’s vineyard. Time on this trip has been moving the way wine ages: slowly in the moment, and then suddenly — whoosh — a whole week is gone.

    I’m using this post as a footprint to show off the vineyard itself, the restaurant on the property, a few of the wines we tasted, and the quiet walk back into Vaduz afterward… all of which made up one of the gentlest, most enjoyable parts of our day.

    Traveling off-season turned out to be our secret superpower. We arrived a little before our 3:00 PM tasting and spent a while wandering the grounds — rows of vines, mountains painted with a dusting of snow, and the kind of deep alpine silence you can feel in your chest. Inside, a young woman welcomed us and led what ended up being a private tasting, just the two of us. She walked us through the winemaking process, the history of the estate, and then poured a lineup of whites, reds, and even a very lovely ice wine. Donna and I looked at each other with the same expression: Yep… that one’s good.

    If we weren’t traveling with only a backpack and a carry-on (and if our Q-tips weren’t already fighting for survival in there), we would have absolutely brought home a bottle or two. Instead, we limited ourselves to memories and photos — much easier to pack.

    From the vineyard, we walked the quiet path back into Vaduz, watching the light settle behind the mountains. Our hope was to return to Adler Vaduz for a second dinner, but the restaurant side had already closed for the night. The staff kindly sent us to a nearby Italian spot — one that we’re pretty sure Walter owns as well. It was simple, comforting: pastas, a bit of wine, and two travelers who had already walked a full day.

    It wasn’t the most dramatic part of our trip, but it was one of the most peaceful — the kind of afternoon that slips into the heart quietly and stays there.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #Hofkellerei #WinesOfLiechtenstein #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #VineyardLife #OffSeasonTravel
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  • Day 03 More to do in Vaduz

    11月25日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    After walking across the Rhine River into Switzerland, we turned back toward Vaduz — there was still more to explore, and only one full day to do it. Our next stop was the Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, the country’s national museum for modern and contemporary art. Opened in 2000, the museum is known for its sleek black basalt façade and its strong emphasis on conceptual and multimedia work. It partners with the nearby Hilti Art Foundation, giving tiny Liechtenstein a surprisingly impressive art footprint.

    Inside, we wandered through a playful, interactive space clearly designed for “kids of all ages,” which Donna and I took as a personal invitation. We explored exhibitions featuring the bold text-and-video works of Tony Cokes, the conceptual media of Henrik Olesen, and even a Warhol Marilyn Monroe. It’s always fun to see a Warhol overseas, but once you’ve stood in front of the full MoMA collection, these European cameos feel a bit like his more introverted cousin.

    In the museum today, I met a gentleman who instantly caught my eye — not because of anything he said, but because of what was hanging from his shoulder: a vintage 1950s Leica, the kind of camera that whispers stories before the shutter even clicks. I was drawn to it like a moth to a beautifully machined flame. We struck up a conversation, two strangers connected by glass and gears. He told me he collects old Leicas, each one with its own history baked into the brass. He graciously let me take his portrait, the camera resting against him like an old friend. Moments like that remind me why I still love photography — not just the images, but the people and the stories that come with them.

    As we were leaving the museum, Donna mentioned she could really go for a Coca-Cola. Fate stepped in. The sushi restaurant tucked inside the museum happened to serve her new favorite soda — Fritz-Kola — a tiny German company started in 2003 by two friends in Hamburg who apparently decided cola should taste bolder and wake the dead with caffeine. So we grabbed a table, shared a fresh salad, sipped our Fritz-Kolas, and enjoyed a quiet little lunch before heading back into the day.

    The next stop on our plan was the Altes Kino, the old Vaduz theater, where a short documentary plays about life inside Vaduz Castle. Since the palace is strictly private and not open to visitors, the film is the closest any of us will get to understanding the rhythms of life inside those stone walls. We were early, so we made a strategic detour into Dolce, the local chocolate shop glowing like a Christmas ornament. A couple of sweet treats later, we crossed the street to the theater and settled into vintage red velvet seats. The film was surprisingly informative — a behind-the-scenes look at restoration work, palace traditions, and the daily life of the principality’s ruling family. Even fairy-tale castles need maintenance schedules.

    From there, we caught a local bus out to the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, the Prince’s royal winery. It’s only two stops from downtown; we probably could have walked, but by afternoon our feet had filed a formal protest. Traveling off-season has its perks — our 3:00 PM wine tasting became a private session. The young woman leading us through the experience was lovely, offering a thoughtful tour and a generous lineup of wines. Even the ice wine won both Donna and me over. But with only a backpack and carry-on each, we had nowhere to stash a bottle. (At this point, even the Q-tips are fighting for space.)

    We walked back toward town hoping for another dinner at Adler Vaduz, which we adored the night before. But the restaurant side was already closed, leaving only the small café open. They kindly directed us to a nearby Italian place — and we’re fairly certain Walter owns this one too. A couple of simple pastas and a glass of wine later, we were fully convinced that Vaduz does not know how to serve a bad meal.

    From there, the evening shifted into travel mode. We needed to be up early for a long run of buses and trains carrying us toward Milan, Italy. So we headed back to the hotel, took long showers, and stole one more look at the palace glowing above the town — that quiet, watchful guardian of Vaduz. Then our heads hit the pillows, grateful for the day behind us and ready for the miles ahead.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #Kunstmuseum #Hofkellerei #OldCinemaVaduz #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #ExploringVaduz
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  • Day 03 A walk to Switzerland

    11月25日, リヒテンシュタイン ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    After visiting the Vaduz Cathedral, we set out on a short 20–30 minute walk toward the Old Rhine Bridge (German: Alte Rheinbrücke), first completed in 1901. The bridge stretches 135 meters across the Rhine and, since 1975, has been reserved exclusively for pedestrians and cyclists — no cars, just footsteps, bicycles, and the quiet hum of people crossing between two countries as casually as walking down a driveway.

    A few simple streets led us from downtown Vaduz onto a bike path, and the path eventually brought us to the covered wooden bridge itself. This section of the Rhine is often called the Alpine Rhine, the upper river that winds north between Liechtenstein and Switzerland, forming the natural border between the two. Snow capped the mountain peaks in the distance, the air was crisp, and everything felt peaceful. It was one of those gentle travel moments where the world slows down just enough for you to notice all the good parts.

    There was also something quietly amazing about the contrast: one day we’re floating along the Danube, and just a couple of days later we’re crossing the Rhine on foot. Two great rivers, two entirely different moods — yet both part of this same larger journey.

    I don’t have too many colorful things to add here. It was simply a lovely walk, a beautiful bridge, and a small joy to step into Switzerland the way you might step into your neighbor’s yard.

    Please enjoy the photos — I’ll let them speak for themselves.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #OldRhineBridge #AlteRheinbrücke #CrossingIntoSwitzerland #AlpineRhine #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins
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  • Day 03 Vaduz Cathedral

    11月25日, スイス ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    When you travel through the South Pacific or Asia, there comes a moment when you see your twentieth temple of the week and feel the urge to politely whisper, “Okay… enough.” Europe is similar. The churches and cathedrals are magnificent, moving, historic — but after a while, it can all become a bit of an architectural overload.

    The Vaduz Cathedral, by comparison, is almost refreshing in its simplicity.

    The Cathedral of St. Florin was built between 1869 and 1873, designed by the Austrian architect Friedrich von Schmidt, who was also behind parts of Vienna’s Rathaus. Originally a parish church, it wasn’t elevated to cathedral status until 1997, when the Archdiocese of Vaduz was created. The style is neo-Gothic, clean and restrained — pointed arches, delicate stained glass, and a single spire that watches quietly over the town. Beneath the church lie the tombs of Liechtenstein’s princes and princesses, tying the country’s spiritual and political history together.

    Inside the vestibule, I noticed a small rack of children’s books. It made me smile — a universal question across all faiths and continents: How do we keep the kids quiet in church? That same logistical challenge has apparently been passed down since the invention of pews.

    Nearby were bottles of holy water for sale at €5 each. I paused. I genuinely wondered if this was part of Jesus’ original marketing plan. Maybe it’s mentioned in the Gospel of Facebook, chapter 7, verse 12:
    “Thou shalt hydrate thy soul… for a small convenience fee.”
    I don’t know. Maybe I missed that day in Sunday School.

    The cathedral itself is lovely — light-filled, peaceful, understated. But as often happens when we visit grand houses of worship, a deeper question rose up again. If there is a God —is this really what was intended? Across the world we’ve walked into cathedrals dripping in gold and marble, then stepped outside to find people begging for enough money to eat. Something about that contrast feels profoundly out of rhythm with the teachings those buildings were meant to honor.

    To be clear, that’s not the case here in Vaduz. It’s simply a recurring thought — a reminder that beauty and wealth don’t always align with compassion and care. And maybe that’s why this cathedral, simple and honest, felt more human than most.

    #Vaduz #CathedralStFlorin #VaduzCathedral #Liechtenstein #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #ReflectionsOnFaith #ArchitectureAndLife
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  • Day 03 Good Morning Vaduz, Städtle

    11月25日, リヒテンシュタイン ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    It’s normal for me to wake up before Donna, so I quietly opened the drapes to see the castle sitting on the hillside, wrapped in gray clouds. Yesterday’s clothes were in a pile from last night — there is absolutely no chance we are opening our suitcases. They’re packed tighter than a Boeing overhead bin. I got dressed from the pile and headed down to the breakfast room.

    A classic European breakfast was laid out — breads, cheeses, meats, fruits. For now, I just had a cappuccino and set up my phone with the Bluetooth keyboard to write a post and draft a few fillers. A little later I went back upstairs, woke Donna, and we came down for breakfast together. We’re getting used to these simple spreads — there’s something pleasant about starting the day with baguettes and cheese rather than scrambled eggs and bacon.

    Coats on, we stepped outside into the cool morning. Today’s plan was simple: walk the town, visit the cathedral, and — because this is Liechtenstein — stroll twenty minutes across the bridge straight into Switzerland. You can literally walk into another country before you finish a cup of coffee. Very cool.

    City workers were busy decorating the streets for Christmas. It wasn’t finished yet, but you could already imagine how magical it will look in a few days. As Donna and I wandered over the cobblestones, all I could think about was the Hallmark Christmas movie waiting to be written. Donna plays the lovely woman visiting Vaduz for the holidays. I’m the rugged local guy (we’ll pick a strong Liechtenstein name for me later), born and raised here. Donna is engaged to a wealthy stockbroker back home but unsure about her future. Naturally, she joins me to help save the Vaduz Christmasfest — and somewhere between lighting displays and gingerbread stands, we fall in love. Of course.

    The streets are dotted with art, but the store window featuring two strange naked men sculptures might win the prize. I’m not sure how they’re supposed to work as marketing, but they were definitely attracting attention — I wasn’t the only one with a camera pointed at them.

    As we walked around the back of the cathedral, I noticed a group of seniors in the community center taking their 9:00 AM morning dance class. For a moment I hesitated with the camera — it felt like I might be intruding on something private, something meant just for them. But what I really saw was simply life happening… normal people, just like at home, showing up for their routines, their friendships, their joy. While we’re out here wandering the world, they’re doing their Thursday morning dance class. Somehow, that small glimpse made Vaduz feel even more real, more human, more connected.

    We headed toward the cathedral next — I’ll share those photos in a separate post.

    A gentle start to the day, the castle watching over us, and the Christmas spirit quietly gathering in the background. More adventures in Vaduz still to come.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #GoodMorningVaduz #AlpineVillage #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #CrossingIntoSwitzerland #ChristmasInVaduz
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  • Day 02 Afteroon in Vaduz

    11月24日, リヒテンシュタイン ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    After our tree-fort adventure on rails, we arrived in Zurich just before 9:00 AM and hustled to catch the next train toward Sargans, Switzerland. From there, a 35-minute local bus carried us deeper into the mountains toward Vaduz, Liechtenstein. A kind woman on the bus tipped us off about the best stop for the shortest walk to our hotel — a blessing for two tired travelers dragging luggage across uphill cobblestones.

    We reached the Hotel Vaduzerhof after circling to the wrong side of the building to find the entrance. The hotel is fully self-service — check-in by touchscreen. Thankfully, even with a 3:00 PM check-in time, our room was ready at 1:00 PM. We dropped everything, took a breath, and stepped back out into this small, charming capital.

    A quick factoid about Liechtenstein & Vaduz

    Liechtenstein is one of the smallest countries in the world — a doubly-landlocked principality tucked between Switzerland and Austria, known for its alpine landscapes, strong economy, and the medieval Vaduz Castle overlooking the town. Vaduz itself is tiny; you can walk end-to-end in under an hour, yet it remains the nation’s political and cultural center. It’s a place where mountain quiet meets storybook charm.

    After wandering the streets, we discovered Adler Vaduz, a local restaurant first opened in 1908. We enjoyed a remarkable dinner of traditional cuisine. Walter, the owner, stopped by to share the history — his grandfather first opened the establishment, once a hotel with rooms upstairs. Over the years, those rooms became office space he now rents out, while he continues running the café/restaurant with pride. The charm is exactly what you’d expect in a fairy tale, and the food? Easily equal to a five-star, over-priced Manhattan restaurant — but delivered here with warmth, not swagger.

    As we said good-bye to our waitress, the sun was sliding behind the mountains. We walked past our hotel toward the small ice rink in the middle of town. Remember — Vaduz is the capital of Liechtenstein, yet still so small and gentle you could miss it if you blinked. A little booth by the rink was selling warm drinks. The sign said €4 for hot chocolate. For reasons unknown, it cost me €20 — I didn’t question it. We sat with our drinks and watched kids, families, and young couples circling the ice. A few of them hit the ice more than once. Gravity works the same in Liechtenstein.

    The hot chocolate arrived in gorgeous decorative ceramic mugs — bright red with Christmas designs. I noticed people walking away with the mugs, but we had no room in our luggage. Q-tip swabs are fighting for space at this point. So I returned our empty mugs to the sweet older woman running the booth — and she handed me €12 back.

    Ah! Mystery solved.
    €10 if you want to keep the mug.
    €4 if you return it.
    A charming and very effective business model.

    And this same gentle grandmotherly woman?
    She’s also running a full DJ sound system and light show for the rink. Lasers, colorful lights, music echoing through the plaza — it was delightful.

    But the day had been long. We had traveled from Vienna to Zurich through the night, made our transfers into this Christmas-card village, and our energy was gone. I took Donna’s hand as we walked over the cobblestones. All we had to do was look up the mountainside — the castle glowed above us in full evening majesty.

    The magic of the room key opened our door. Hot showers washed the journey away. And the pillows — absolutely heavenly. The kind you absolutely want to steal but won’t.

    Good night, Vaduz.
    See you in the morning.

    #Vaduz #Liechtenstein #AlpineVillage #ChristmasMarket #TravelEurope #PaulAndDonna #FindPenguins #NightJetToZurich #AdlerVaduz #TravelStory
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  • Day 02 World’s Best Haircut

    11月24日, リヒテンシュタイン ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Up until today, the best haircut Donna and I ever had was in Cádiz, Spain. A little beauty parlor down a cobblestone street… not much English spoken, just a warm memory we’ve carried for years. And yes, while we were on the Rinda, I took a little friendly heat for my developing “Cosmo Kramer–style” hairdo.

    After we checked into our hotel in Vaduz — three hours early, which felt like a gift — we decided to wander through this charming little capital. And right outside our hotel was a barbershop. I looked at Donna, raised an eyebrow, and asked if it was okay to get my “hairs” cut. She agreed. They only do men’s cuts, so Donna became the photographer and spectator.

    Photography credit goes entirely to her — she was having way too much fun.

    My barber, Adam, had everything under complete control: clippers, comb, scissors, the whole arsenal. At one point he asked if I wanted a shave.
    “Full service!” I replied.

    The steam came out. My face was wrapped in a turban. I even had my eyebrows threaded — a first for me. Then came the shaving cream, and Adam, with the precision of an artist, gave me one of the best razor shaves I’ve ever had.

    Donna enjoyed the show almost as much as I enjoyed the pampering.

    After the mini-facial, the shave, and the new styling, the final results were right there for the world to see. Donna took one look and said that while Cádiz had held the crown for years… it looks like I may have found a new barber here in Vaduz, Liechtenstein.

    Thumb through the photos to the last one — do you agree?

    #Liechtenstein #Vaduz #TravelDiaries #EightDaysToBarcelona #BestHaircutEver #BarberLife #TravelMoments #SimplyStreet #FindPenguins
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  • Day 01 Our TreeFort on the NightJet

    11月23日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    As the NightJet rounded the bend into the platform, a wave of accomplishment rolled over both of us. After the long wait in the Vienna station — moments of uneasiness here and there — we finally had our ride. We were tired, a bit frayed around the edges, and more than ready to settle in.

    To my fellow Viking River passengers: if you ever thought your cabins on the ship were too small (we didn’t), the First Class compartment on NightJet 466 is about the size of a walk-in closet in one of the Viking Suites. Cozy would be the polite word. Micro-compact is more accurate.

    Donna volunteered for the upper bunk; I secured the lower. It took about thirty minutes for us to get ourselves sorted — stowing our carry-ons under the bed, finding homes for our shoes, CPAP, clothes, water bottles, glasses, phones, and all the little things. It felt like being in my own treehouse in the woods, figuring out where every treasure should go. My CPAP plugged in nicely (thank you, European adapter). My morning clothes waited at the foot of the bed. My phone and glasses nestled in the little net cargo holder beside me. Perfect.

    And the blanket — I loved that blanket. Lightweight, but with a gentle weight that felt like someone whispering, go to sleep, you’re safe here. They place it folded in thirds; you just open it and rotate it 90 degrees for full length. A simple pleasure, but a good one.

    Donna, eye mask securely in place, finally said, “STOP,” as I narrated everything I saw outside the window. You cannot see much from the top bunk, and she wanted to sleep. I, however, was far too excited.

    It was like watching a movie through my cabin window — a nighttime panorama in slow motion. The lights of the city sliding past; the silhouettes of old buildings; the sudden rush of another train roaring by in the opposite direction. Then came the countryside: tall mountains reduced to shadow, a treeline etched in near-black ink, reflections shimmering from a quiet lake. Streetlights created dancing patterns across the land. A few homes glowed warmly in the darkness — I even saw smoke curling from a chimney.

    Hard to believe I was on a night train slicing through Austria toward Switzerland. For many, this might be a simple routine. For me, it felt like something out of a Clive Cussler or John Grisham novel. I was riding my own small version of the Orient Express.

    (And yes — Donna is now thinking we may redo our master bedroom at home… with bunk beds. Stay tuned.)

    Eventually, about an hour later, I fumbled in the dark for my CPAP headgear and eye pillow. I closed the window blind and let the rhythm of the rails guide me into sleep. We actually slept pretty well — except for each time the train stopped. Then we’d both wake up for a few seconds wondering: Where are we?
    Did we crash?
    Are we being boarded by pirates?
    Has Interpol finally caught up with us?
    Moments later, the train would start rolling again, and the music of the tracks would pull us right back into our dreams.

    Donna set a 6:45 AM alarm — fifteen minutes before breakfast. We readied ourselves as best we could in our tiny tree fort. Breakfast arrived at the cabin. It wasn’t Teo, Yuri, or the beautiful Rinda service we grew fond of — but it was exactly what we needed: simple, warm, and enough to start the day. We ate, dressed, tidied up our little space, and got ourselves organized.

    When the train coasted into Zurich, we gathered our things. As we stepped off, I couldn’t help but whisper a small thank-you to our makeshift hideaway.

    Good-bye, tree fort. You served us well.

    #NightJet #OvernightTrain #TrainTravel #ViennaToZurich #RidingTheRails #TravelEurope #FindPenguins #PaulAndDonna #NightTrainAdventure #VikingToZurich
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  • Day 01 Patience Is a Virtue

    11月23日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    Our 10½-Hour Wait for the NightJet

    We stepped off the Rinda at 11:00 AM, bags in hand, taking one last look at the ship that had carried us through the Danube. Via taxi, by 11:30, we were standing inside Wien Hauptbahnhof, beginning what would become a 10½-hour layover before our NightJet to Zürich. We didn’t choose the wait—sometimes travel simply hands you a day and says, “Figure it out.”

    And so we did.

    Fast-food warmth and early observations

    Our first stop was McDonald’s. It was crowded, loud, and warm—the kind of midday chaos only a giant train-station McDonald’s can produce. Donna and I shared a large Coke, continuing her ongoing scientific study of European Coke vs. American Coke. The conclusion remains the same: the U.S. still wins by a wide margin. I skipped the coffee and we just sat for a while, watching Vienna move around us. But eventually the noise became too much, and we drifted back into the station to continue our search for a quieter place to land.

    Down by the tracks — a different Vienna

    We ended up in the public seating area near tracks 3–12, right under the giant departure board and—unfortunately—right beside the metal recycling bins. From here, a different side of the day revealed itself.

    One by one, people approached the bins, pulling out recyclables for deposit money, carefully removing leftover food, or sorting through tossed-out pastries. It was quiet, steady, almost ritualistic. No begging. No confrontation. Just survival, happening quietly in the background as travelers like us waited for trains to carry us onward.

    Travel is always teaching. Today it taught us to look a little closer.

    Food court refugee life

    Eventually, the cold of the platform area pushed us to the food court. We bought Burger King nuggets and water—then kept them in full view on the table. Technically, you’re only allowed to sit there if you’re actively eating something from the vendors.

    A young man across from us had no food displayed, his head was on his backpack on the table and was approached by security and asked to move. Donna whispered that we probably got a pass because we’re older white Americans with food clearly visible. She wasn’t wrong. Travel exposes the unspoken rules of public spaces—who gets to rest and who doesn’t.

    So we stayed put, nursing our nuggets, charging our phones, watching the hours slowly pass. Ready to go get more if needed. We had a plan.

    A shouting voice and staying aware

    At one point, an unhinged woman came through the station shouting loudly in German, clearly distressed. Her voice echoed above the crowd. For a moment, I wondered if it was a distraction—pickpocket teams sometimes use noise as a tactic—but there was no coordinated movement. It was simply another moment in the long day of a major train station: humanity in all its forms, from tired tourists to people struggling in ways we’ll never fully understand.

    6:15 PM — low batteries, high tension

    By 6:15 PM, both our phones were in the red. After hours of navigating, photographing, and scrolling to fill time, seeing that last sliver of battery felt like betrayal. I pulled out the battery pack and we set up a little island of cables and adapters on the table. Watching our phones slowly revive felt like reviving ourselves.

    7:50 PM — the oasis appears

    Finally—finally—at 7:50 PM, we stepped into the ÖBB Lounge, and the day shifted instantly. First class travelers are allowed access to the lounge an hour before the train leaves. We tried to get in sooner and were rejected by a “by the book” security guard.

    Quiet. Warm. Clean.
    Soft grey seating.
    Low lighting.
    Complimentary drinks and snacks.
    A view over the bustling station below.

    It was the exhale we needed after a long, drifting day. For the first time since leaving the Rinda, we felt genuinely settled.

    9:20 PM — All aboard

    When our platform was announced, we gathered our bags and walked to the NightJet. At 9:20 PM, we stepped into our sleeper cabin—small, cozy, clean, and ours. After 10½ hours of wandering, waiting, observing, and staying just one step ahead of exhaustion, closing that cabin door felt like the day finally let go.

    We didn’t kill each other.
    We stayed warm.
    We stayed aware.
    And somewhere along the way, we learned a little more about the world and the people moving through it.

    Tonight, we fall asleep to the rhythm of the tracks, heading toward Zürich.
    Tomorrow, a new chapter begins.

    #Vienna #WienHbf #NightJet #Zurich #TravelJournal #EuropeByRail #LongLayover #TrainTravel #McDonaldsEurope #WaitingGame #TravelLife #AustriaToSwitzerland #FindPenguins #JourneyContinues
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  • Day 18 Disembarkation Day

    11月22日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    The pages of this chapter of the Adventures of Paul & Donna are coming to a close.

    We woke to a soft gray Vienna morning, the kind that feels like it’s whispering, “Slow down… today is different.” Outside our stateroom window, the city wore a thin dusting of snow — subtle, quiet, beautiful.

    Many travelers had to rise long before the sun. We heard suitcase wheels and hushed voices rolling through the hallway as early as 3:00 A.M. Flights to catch. Connections to make. New destinations calling. To everyone heading out into the world today, we wish you safe travels.

    Inside the Rinda, the ritual of departure was already forming: Suitcases lined the hallways like a final parade. The restaurant filled with guests savoring one last breakfast. Quiet goodbyes drifted across the tables.

    We said farewell to staff, fellow travelers, and — most importantly — the new friends who became part of our story these past 18 days. Honestly, some of us may never cross paths again. That’s okay. Because we’ll remember the smiles long after we’ve forgotten the names. And as Bob Hope once said so perfectly:

    “Thanks for the memories.”

    Last night we enjoyed a final dinner with our Rinda friends Barry & Melody, and Mark & Natalia — a reminder that river cruising creates these tiny floating communities where strangers quickly become familiar, and familiar faces become something like family. Harley-Davidson says, “It’s not about the destination — it’s about the ride.” I get it now more than ever.

    The other night we were handed our departure forms.

    Out of the room by 9:00 A.M.
    Off the ship by 11:30 A.M.

    There was a line to fill in:

    Departure time: _________

    So naturally, I wrote 11:31 A.M. One last attempt at being funny on my way out the door. Viking will hail us a cab to take us to the train station were we will wait for the “All Aboard!” Signal for our next chapter to start. And YES, I will be posting our adventures on FindPenguins, a new trip called “Eight Days to Barcelona.”

    While many travelers were racing off to airports, Donna and I are on a different timeline. Our next chapter doesn’t begin until 9:21 P.M. tonight, when we board the NightJet sleeper train from Vienna to Zurich — the start of our journey toward Liechtenstein. So we’re not in any rush to leave the Rinda. We’re lingering, absorbing these last quiet moments, letting the day unfold slowly.

    And as we stood in the lobby one last time, surrounded by luggage, goodbyes, hugs, and that soft mixture of sadness and excitement, I remembered a toast a friend taught me long ago.

    So with glasses raised…

    “May the best day of your past
    be the worst day of your future.
    Cheers.”

    Paul & Donna Gruhn
    East Windsor, Connecticut USA



    #DisembarkationDay #VikingRinda #ViennaSnow #RiverCruiseLife #PaulAndDonnaAdventures #FindPenguinsJourney #NewFriendsNewMemories #SafeTravels #NightJetToZurich #NextChapterBegins #AdventureContinues #ThanksForTheMemories
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  • Day 17 Donna & The Lippizan’s

    11月22日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    This one belongs to Donna.

    For this post, I’m stepping back and letting Donna share her experience in her own voice. Horses have been woven into Donna’s life since childhood, and today’s visit to the Spanish Riding School in Vienna was something she has carried on her bucket list for decades. We booked this excursion months ago — long before we ever boarded the plane in Hartford — because I knew this was Donna’s day.

    Here are Donna’s words, exactly as she wrote them:

    **
    “Our cruise on the Danube River has come to an end, here in Vienna. Our last full day was spent with the Lippizzan horses at the Spanish Riding School. I was surprised that the school is pretty much in the center of the very busy city of Vienna. We started with the 70 minute performance. The riders showed off the training of their mounts, the young 4-6 year old horses with walk, trot, canter. The older, more experienced horses and riders performing the airs above the ground, Levade, Courbette, Capriole. My personal favorite was the rider showing the trust that he has with his mount by long reins, snuggled up to the hindquarters of his steed, moving through trot and canter with ease, walking behind his partner. Yes, walking though the horse is cantering. Performing Piaffe, Passage and Pirouettes effortlessly. The performance ended with the Quadrille, eight stallions with riders performing intricate maneuvers, weaving in and out and between each other. Fantastic.

    After the Lippizans performance, Paul Gruhn and I searched for a cafe for hot chocolate. It was hard to find a place that didn’t have a line out the door. After a zig and zag down a side street we found one.

    Later in the afternoon we went back to the SRS for a behind the scenes tour. The stallions in the outer courtyard were shy and busy eating their lunch. Inside the 1730s stables, we toured the tack room which smelled deliciously of leather. There was close to 80 saddles in the larger of the 2 tack rooms.

    The horses inside were also eating but we were able to see them through the wrought iron bars of their stalls. They were magnificent.

    This was a day that I will always remember.”

    **

    As her husband — a man who has watched Donna muck stalls, lift hay bales, brush down her horse Ryan, and carry a lifetime’s worth of love for animals — I can tell you: this day meant the world to her. Vienna may not know it, but it gave her a gift today. And getting to stand beside her while she experienced it? That was a gift to me, too.

    #Lipizzans #SpanishRidingSchool #Vienna #BucketListDay #DonnaAndPaul #HorseLovers #DanubeRiverCruise #VikingCruises #TravelMemories #SimplyStreetTravel #FindPenguinsJourney #UnforgettableDay #EquestrianDream
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  • Day 16 Grafitti in Vienna

    11月21日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    One of my friend’s son (name withheld to protect the not-so-innocent) would love living in Vienna. This young gentleman once got himself into a little creative mischief decorating a few Connecticut walls… and thankfully learned his lesson. But here in Vienna? Let’s just say his inner Banksy would be celebrated, not sentenced. Because in Vienna, graffiti isn’t only tolerated — in many places, it’s legal.

    I’ve attached just a few images of the creative expressions we saw tucked under bridges, splashed across concrete walls, and layered like geological strata of Vienna’s urban soul. Some messy, some brilliant, some questionable, all human.

    Graffiti here lives in a strange and fascinating space. Vienna actually has designated “Free Walls” — legal zones where anyone can pick up a can of paint and leave their mark. No permit, no permission slip. Just show up and create.

    These spaces were established to channel street art into areas where it could thrive safely and respectfully… and to give young artists a chance to experiment without ending up in handcuffs. And trust me, people use it. The walls change daily. Layer over layer over layer — a conversation in color.

    Is all of it “high art”? Of course not. But that’s the point. It’s raw expression, the public diary of a city that loves opera and spray paint, classical waltzes and rebellious scribbles. Vienna contains multitudes.

    And somewhere deep inside me, a quiet little voice whispered: “Paul… wouldn’t it be fun to add just one tiny mark?”

    In the back of my mind, I really do wish I had a couple of spray cans with me. Vienna has left an impression on Donna and me — in its architecture, its humanity, its surprises tucked under bridges. It would have been nice to leave a small visual “thank you,” nothing loud or intrusive… just a simple gesture of appreciation on a hidden wall where only the city itself might notice.

    But I behaved myself … This time.

    Still, walking through those tunnels of paint, color, and rebellious joy, I understood something:

    Here in Vienna, creativity is not confined to galleries — it grows wherever the walls allow it.

    #Vienna #StreetArt #GraffitiCulture #UrbanArt #ViennaVibes #CreativeTravel #DonnaAndPaul #FindPenguins #SimplyStreetPhotography #TravelJournal #ArtEverywhere #EuropeByFoot #VikingCruises #ColorfulJourneys
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  • Day 16 Schnellverbindungsplan

    11月21日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Schnellverbindungsplan:
    A word I never imagined I’d need… and now I kind of love it. Roughly translated, it means “rapid connection map” — Vienna’s wonderfully efficient way of telling you, “Here’s how to get anywhere fast… if you can follow the spaghetti of lines without getting lost.”

    Donna and I signed up for the “harder” walking tour today — no bus, no panoramic window, no comfy seats. Just legs, layers, and a local guide named Peter who clearly spends weekends scaling the Alps for breakfast. He ushered our little flock through Vienna’s winter chill, and before long we were following him underground into the heartbeat of the city: the metro.

    Stoian Adrian — our Program Director and benevolent Mother Hen — handed each of us two metro tickets:

    One to get into the city. One to hopefully find our way home.

    There was a strong implication that using them correctly was entirely on us.

    But before you ride, there is a ritual. These tiny paper tickets must be validated — stamped by a small blue machine mounted to the wall. No beep, no turnstile, no alert. Just a quiet imprint of time and place. Miss this? You might get a firm Viennese lecture from authorities in crisp uniforms. We stamped carefully.

    Down we went.

    The U-Bahn swallowed us whole — escalators stretching like conveyor belts, stations wrapped in modern curves and tiles, cold air scented with aluminum, coffee, and the steady hum of everyday life. I tried to photograph not just the place but the people: commuters leaning into their phones, families bundled in winter coats, students zoning out with earbuds, the tired, the cheerful, the late-for-somethings. The real Vienna. The unpolished, unposed rhythm of a city moving through its Friday morning.

    Our first transfer felt like a scene from a spy movie — our group clustered behind Peter’s yellow knit hat like chicks chasing a runaway yolk. The signage glowed above us: U1 Oberlaa, arrows pointing us deeper into the city’s veins. Every platform we reached expanded into another world — curved ceilings, striped tiles, endless rails tapering into the dark.

    One station had construction walls striped like hazard tape — austerity and design somehow blending perfectly in that Viennese way. Another escalator plunged downward at a steepness that should require seatbelts. At one point I caught Adrian laughing as he rode beside us — clearly amused at the spectacle of his flock navigating subway life like wide-eyed newcomers to civilization.

    On the train itself the scene was cinematic. I snapped photos of passengers lost in their own universes: a woman reading, another adjusting her scarf, friends chatting, a child mesmerized by their reflection in the window. Vienna’s metro is clean, efficient, and surprisingly human. Every image became a little study in posture, gesture, and the private worlds we carry in public spaces.

    When we resurfaced and walked back across Mexikoplatz, a cold drizzle set in — but it didn’t matter. We had officially graduated from Metro School. We had stamped our tickets, followed the Schnellverbindungsplan, and lived to tell the tale.

    A good day — with good images to prove it.

    #ViennaMetro #Schnellverbindungsplan #VikingRiverCruise #TravelPhotography #StreetLifeEurope #DonnaAndPaulAdventures #LearningTheLines
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  • Day 16 Ghost Ship at 5:27AM

    11月21日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    Couldn’t sleep last night. I was out of bed at 5:00 AM, still shaking off a dream that had my heart racing. Yesterday we had the All Hands on Deck Disembarkation Meeting—the one every cruiser secretly dreads. Times, luggage tags, the do’s and don’ts… all the reminders that our time aboard the Rinda is coming to an end.

    So of course my dreaming mind took that and ran with it—maybe sprinted is a better word. In the dream, Donna and I left the Rinda and climbed into a taxi headed for the train station. Except the driver didn’t stop. He just kept driving… and driving… until we wound up somewhere in the countryside. He dropped us off in the middle of nowhere, and somehow we stumbled onto a group of people with a Viking-red umbrella but no English between them.

    We finally found another taxi—this one spoke English—but instead of taking us to the station, he brought us to his home. His wife prepared a lovely meal for us while Donna and I sat there quietly panicking about missing our train to Zurich. Eventually he drove us back and we made it just in time. That’s when I woke up—in full “we’re going to miss everything” mode.

    It was about 5:27 AM when I finally got up and wandered toward the lounge. The Rinda was a ghost ship. Even Ruth, who always beats me to the chairs by the window, was nowhere to be found. I snapped a few photos of the empty spaces.

    Through the glass toward the bow, I spotted an unexpected figure moving in the soft glow of the pre-dawn lights. It was Leah, preparing the pastries. I called out, “Good morning, you’re up early.”
    “Always,” she said with a smile.

    I stepped outside for a moment. It’s cold in Vienna this morning—the kind of cold that quietly suggests snow might be on its way. The river feels slower today. Or maybe I’m the one slowing down, trying to hold a little tighter to these final days.

    It’s Friday. Two more days here in Vienna and on the Rinda. Then on Sunday they will politely, gracefully, and without hesitation… ask us to leave. I’ve been scouting for hiding places—maybe under the cushions tucked beneath the stairs leading to the top deck. I don’t think anyone would notice for at least a few hours.

    This is the last cruise of the season. I know the crew is ready to head home, see their families, rest, recharge. Some will move on to other ships. Others will disappear into their well-deserved vacations. And the Rinda? She’ll be settled into her Vienna winter port, tucked in and waiting for the thaw. I imagine the mechanics and staff brushing her down, tuning her up, making sure she’s ready for future travelers come March when she’ll glide up and down the Danube again.

    So I’ll savor these last dawns—the creaking hull, the hum of the river, and the kindness of the crew—my little reminders that wonder doesn’t end when the cruise does.
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  • Day 16 Meet Christian & Daniel

    11月21日, オーストリア ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    Once again, the Viking staff turns our cruising experience into a memorable patchwork quilt — warm squares of kindness, skill, and small moments that stay with us long after the ship moves on.

    Meet Christian:
    A young man who has been with Viking for four seasons now. Newly married — just three months. He studied tourism in high school, loves traveling, and when he’s off-duty you’ll find him gaming, with Valorant being his favorite digital battleground. And most important of all: he already knows exactly what I want to drink. It’s the little gestures that make life on board feel like home.

    Meet Daniel:
    Daniel is the Maître d’ on the Rinda — the quiet conductor of the dining room. His mission is simple: everyone must be happy beyond expectations. And he has a superpower for seeing the smallest detail a staff member might miss. Married since 2013, father of a 10-year-old, and when he’s home he enjoys fishing. I asked if he had any stories. He smiled and said, “Many.”

    Donna has her dietary concerns — she loves ice cream, cheese, and crème brûlée, but they don’t love her back. Each evening Daniel brings her the menu for the next day’s lunch and dinner. Together they walk through what she can have, what adjustments can be made, and what the kitchen can prepare with milk substitutes. I’ve noticed Daniel doing this for several passengers, each one essentially getting their own personal dietary coach. The level of care is remarkable.

    A couple of days ago I spoke with Daniel and later with Sasha, the Head Chef, and asked if they could invent a lactose-free crème brûlée. They said they’d work on it. Last night Teo told Donna there was no special dessert available. (I knew what was coming.) She politely chose sorbet. A few minutes later Teo arrived with a custom crème brûlée made just for her by the pastry chef. The excitement at the table was over the top — Sasha came out smiling, Teo was laughing, a couple of dishes clattered somewhere behind us — all in pure, joyful celebration. They even made a couple of extra bowls for the next evenings.

    I’ve also included photos of other Viking crew members — I apologize for not having their stories as well. There are far more good hearts on this ship than words I have space for.

    And as this day settles into memory, I’m reminded once again that it’s not just the places we see, but the people who guide us through them. Christian, Daniel, and so many others on the Rinda have woven their kindness into our journey. One day we will forget the exact dates and times — but we won’t forget how we were treated, how we were welcomed, and how often they made us smile. This ship is filled with good souls, and we’re grateful to travel alongside them.

    #VikingRinda #VikingStaff #TravelJournal #SimplyStreetTravel #Hospitality #CruiseLife #KindnessOnTheRiver
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  • Day 15 A Rainy Visit in Bratislava

    11月20日, スロバキア ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    After lunch we ventured out into the cold, slightly rainy city of Bratislava. Our local guide led the way, QuietVox receivers snug in our ears as we followed her through the winding streets of Old Town. The city was beautifully dotted with bright red Viking umbrellas drifting through the squares and alleys — and I had to laugh. We looked surprisingly fashionable, perfectly matching the red Bratislava trolley cars rolling past us.

    Our first major stop was St. Martin’s Cathedral. Inside, the darkness carried that deep, mystical stillness that only ancient churches seem to hold — the feeling that centuries of whispered prayers are still suspended in the air. For nearly 300 years, this was the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary. Between 1563 and 1830, eleven kings and eight queens were crowned beneath its vaulted ceiling, including the remarkable Empress Maria Theresa. Standing there, in that soft light, felt like touching a thread of history.

    Protected from the elements inside the cathedral was a small version of Čumil, the city’s beloved “Man at Work.” His full-size counterpart usually lounges halfway out of a manhole cover in Old Town, chin resting on his folded arms as if he’s taking a break from his shift. Some say he represents the everyday worker; others insist he’s just a bit of mischievous humor. Either way, he’s become an icon of Bratislava.

    Not far from the cathedral, our guide paused in front of the former home of Adolf Frankl, the Slovak-Jewish painter who survived Auschwitz and turned his trauma into haunting, unforgettable artwork. One of the themes that becomes painfully clear as we travel throughout Europe is the long, tragic history of persecution against the Jewish people. Standing before Frankl’s home — a simple building with an extraordinary story — was another reminder of the danger of persecuting people for their DNA, their beliefs, or simply for being like us.

    As Maya Angelou wrote so beautifully: “We are more alike, my friends, than we are unalike.”

    Once we were released for free time — like grade school kids rushing out of class — Donna and I slipped into a local café. We climbed the narrow staircase and found a small table by a second-floor window overlooking the street. From our cozy perch, we watched umbrellas drift past, listened to bursts of laughter from the square below, and enjoyed a quiet moment just being together.

    As evening crept in, we wandered slowly back toward the river. That’s when we found him — the full-size Čumil himself, popping up from his manhole cover in the middle of the street. For a split second, I wondered if he actually needed help. But instead of pulling him out, we did what every traveler does: we snapped a photo and left him exactly where he was.

    Installed in 1997, Čumil was part of Bratislava’s effort to bring humor, color, and joy back into public spaces after decades of communist rule. His “job,” according to the city, is simply to watch the world go by — and to make people smile.

    As we crossed toward the river, a warm trolley rattled past carrying locals home for the evening. It struck me how ordinary this moment was for them — and how extraordinary it felt for us. We spent just a few hours in a place we never even knew existed until today, yet it welcomed us with history, humor, and the quiet charm of everyday life.

    With the sky turning blue-gray and the lights dancing on wet cobblestones, Donna and I made our way back aboard the Rinda — our floating home on the Danube.

    #Bratislava #OldTownBratislava #Slovakia #DanubeJourney #VikingRinda #TravelJournal #SimplyStreetTravel #Cumil #StMartinsCathedral #QuietMoments #CruiseLife #FindPenguinsJourney #EuropeanChristmas #WanderWithDonna
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  • Day 15 Passing Vodné Dielo Gabčíkovo

    11月20日, スロバキア ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    This morning, after breakfast, on our way toward Slovakia, we passed through another massive lock system — Vodné Dielo Gabčíkovo, one of the quiet giants of the Danube. Built between the 1970s and the 1990s, this engineering project transformed a historically unpredictable stretch of the river into a stable, navigable waterway. Before this system existed, the Danube here could be shallow one season, dangerously fast the next. Today it not only prevents flooding, but also generates hydroelectric power and keeps this international shipping route reliably open.

    Ships like the Rinda owe a lot to this place.

    A few fellow Rinda travelers were already on the top deck when I came up — bundled in jackets, coffees in hand, all of us braving the cold morning air. Inside the huge concrete chamber, the ship began to rise, slowly lifting us above the shoreline like an elevator made of river water.

    Two things really stood out to me.

    First: the traffic lights.
    Something about seeing a bright red light stopping a ship our size always makes me smile. Red means wait — even on the Danube. And so we did. Once the water level inside matched the outside and the massive gates dropped low enough to clear the draft of the Rinda, the light shifted to green, giving us permission to continue.

    Second: our captain.
    There was Captain Jurij Tolkacev, stationed at the side wheelhouse, eyes constantly moving, scanning bow to stern. These locks are tight — sometimes narrow enough that you could almost touch the walls as we pass. His focus was absolute. With tiny taps of the thrusters, he gently nudged the ship, keeping us perfectly parallel to the concrete edge. Inch by inch, we slipped through without a scrape.

    With his steady gaze and the calm concentration on his face, you knew he was fully in control.

    And it made me wonder:

    What does Captain Jurij do when he’s not at the wheel of the Rinda?

    The man must be a pretty good gamer — he’s steering a 443-foot ship with a joystick that looks like it came straight out of an old Xbox. Ship technology has come a long way since the giant wooden wheels of pirate ships… the same ships I’m convinced he once commanded somewhere out on the Eastern Seas.

    The gates finally opened, the green light appeared, and we glided out of the chamber — smooth, steady, precise.

    With the Danube stretching out ahead of us, we continued along the river toward our next stop: Slovakia.

    #VodneDieloGabcikovo #DanubeLocks #SlovakiaBound #VikingRinda #RiverCruiseLife #DanubeJourney #TravelJournal #SimplyStreetTravel #CruisingWithDonna #EngineeringMarvels #LockSystem #FindPenguinsJourney #CaptainJurij #RiverStories #MorningOnTheDanube
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  • Day 15 Slovakia, Here We Come

    11月20日, スロバキア ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    I woke up early this morning and laid my things out on our table. For a moment I felt like Paul the Conqueror reclaiming my territory on the good ship Rinda. All we needed were a few sturdy walls, a tower, and of course… a moat.

    I ventured up to the top deck. It was silent, peaceful, and cold — that kind of quiet that feels like the world is holding its breath. A fisherman and his young son stood along the shoreline and gave me a wave. Funny how a simple wave can unlock an entire memory vault. I was suddenly back on those early mornings fishing with my dad… and then years later with our daughter, teaching her how to cast while the sun woke up the world around us.

    The crew let me slip into the “Crew Only” area so I could capture a few photographs of the sun rising over the Danube. They didn’t have to, but that’s the Rinda way — always a kindness tucked into the day. The morning light was soft and silver, the river as calm as a deep breath.

    I chatted with a few of the crew — everyone on board has a story, and if you take the time to listen, you’ll hear some fascinating journeys. I had a bit of administrative work to take care of: Emil and Thomas at Guest Services, as always, were incredibly accommodating. When we arrive in Vienna, we’ll need a couple of taxis for our excursions and then a ride to the main train station to begin the next leg of this three-month adventure. They made it all seem easy.

    I peeked in on Donna — she was peacefully enjoying her sleep — then had a quick chat with Romona before heading to the coffee station. Two cappuccinos later, I was settled into my usual spot, catching up on my FindPenguins posts while the morning slowly unfolded around the ship.

    Slovakia, here we come.

    #Slovakia #DanubeRiver #VikingCruises #MorningOnTheRiver #TravelJournal #SimplyStreetTravel #LifeOnTheRinda #EasternEuropeAdventure
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  • Day 14 Goodbye Budapest

    11月19日, スロバキア ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Up on the top deck, as the night had settled in, there was a chill in the air. We were all bundled up in our jackets, hats, and gloves. The Viking staff served us their special hot drink — a magic potion to keep us warm inside — a mixture of Tokaji (a Hungarian sweet wine), brandy, honey, cloves, and orange peel. This potion works. I had two just to be sure.

    The lines were released, the thrusters quietly pushed us away from the Viking Vali still moored to the shore, and the Viking Vilhjalm took that moment to glide past us on the port side. I think they wanted to challenge us to a race up the Danube. Captain Juri Tolkacev knew better. This was not the night for speed or bravado. If it were, The Rinda would win easily. But this moment called for awe and reflection.

    The Hungarian Parliament Building rose before us — an architectural masterpiece glowing against the dark sky. We didn’t go inside, but those who did told us it felt like a cathedral. A place built not just for governance but to inspire reverence.

    A little history for context:
    Completed in 1904, the Hungarian Parliament Building was designed to celebrate the nation’s independence and growing identity. It sits proudly along the Danube as a symbol of democracy and national unity. Nearly 40 million bricks and thousands of decorative elements went into its construction, blending Gothic Revival grandeur with Renaissance symmetry. Inside are sacred national treasures, including the Crown of St. Stephen — a reminder that this building isn’t just political; it’s historical, spiritual, and deeply woven into Hungary’s cultural soul.

    As we made our way past Margaret Island and slipped under the last bridge, the glow of the Parliament slowly dissolved into the distance. A quiet hush came over the deck. The memory of this night — the lights, the river, the sense of time stretching far beyond our own stories — is etched into our souls forever.

    Budapest… we didn’t have enough time to explore all of you. But you have given us plenty of reasons to return.

    #Budapest #DanubeRiver #VikingCruises #TravelJournal #EveningSail #HungarianParliament #RiverLife #SimplyStreetTravel
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  • Day 14 Exploring Budapest at our pace

    11月19日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    Donna and I decided to stay aboard the Rinda this morning and enjoy a slower start to the day. After lunch we headed out on our own, no group, no schedule—just the two of us wandering Budapest the way we like best.

    We hopped on the trolley and rode four stops down, then walked up toward the Belvárosi Market Hall in the Ferencváros district. This neighborhood goes back to the late 1800s, when it was the bustling trade-and-warehouse quarter of the city. You can still feel that history in the old brick buildings, iron balconies, and cafés tucked into corners that look unchanged for generations.

    Inside the market, the scene hit us all at once—a visual overload of color, smells, and energy. Downstairs, food vendors filled every inch with fresh vegetables, meats, spices, and ready-to-eat Hungarian dishes. I found myself staring at the mountain of produce thinking, How do they go through all this food?

    Upstairs was Trinket Over-Load—embroidered linens, carved wood, leather bags, magnets, toys, paprika in every shape and size. If the lower floor was daily life, the upper floor was pure souvenir carnival.

    We eventually tracked down a Chimney Cake shop, something we’ve wanted to try since arriving. Two ladies inside were having way too much fun making them—laughing, rolling dough, roasting the spirals over open heat. Their joy alone was the price of admission.

    For 1,000 forint, we sat down with a traditional cinnamon chimney cake. Honestly? It was more fun watching them prepare it than eating it. Cooked dough wrapped in sugar and cinnamon… simple, warm, but the show was the real treat.

    Across the way, Donna spotted a jewelry shop. I immediately concentrated all my telepathic powers to keep her from entering the Chamber of Guaranteed Wallet Drain. Miraculously—it worked. She came back and said there was nothing in the window she liked. Little did she know this was one of the rare times my powers actually held strong.

    Hand in hand, we made our way toward the Christmas Market. The air carried a mix of cinnamon, smoke, and mulled wine. One booth stopped me cold—a woman sitting at a loom weaving a scarf right there in front of us. The pieces hanging behind her looked like they belonged in a museum. There’s something grounding about watching someone create with such patience and pride.

    We wandered a bit more, I took a few photos, and eventually we strolled back to the Rinda—content, quiet, happy.

    It was a peaceful, calming time. Just the two of us exploring. No bus ride. No QuietVox. Just walking with my girlfriend through the streets of Budapest, Hungary.

    #Budapest #HungaryTravel #VikingRinda #DanubeJourney #MarketHall #Ferencvaros #TravelJournal #SimplyStreetTravel #TravelWithDonna #ChristmasMarket #ChimneyCake #CityWandering #FindPenguinsJourney #CruiseLife #ColorsOfBudapest
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  • Day 13 Swept into the Szechenyi Circle

    11月18日, ハンガリー ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Today we ventured out on our own to Széchenyi, the famous thermal bath house in Budapest. Donna wasn’t too keen on the idea of “just sitting in a hot tub,” but she humored me for this one. We called an Uber, and about fifteen minutes later we pulled up to this enormous yellow palace of a place.

    Széchenyi is one of the largest thermal baths in Europe. Built in 1913 and fed by natural hot springs beneath Budapest, it’s been a place for locals and travelers to unwind for more than a century.

    Inside, we were greeted by a woman who walked us through the options — and somehow she and Donna instantly bonded over the Savannah Bananas. I still don’t understand how baseball entered the conversation, but they were laughing like old friends.

    We chose the private package, which included fruit cups, cocktails, tea, access to the private arboretum, and a six o’clock couples massage. It also came with a private cabin — a small changing room with a wristband key entry, a locker, and a safe so we could secure our valuables. Everything felt simple, clean, and exactly what two travelers needed.

    Once we changed into our robes, we headed straight outside.

    The Outdoor Pools

    The main outdoor pool is massive, steaming in the cold air, surrounded by that iconic yellow Neo-Baroque architecture. One pool had concentric circles — a kind of human roundabout. Everyone was walking in a giant loop, and once we stepped in, we were instantly swept into the current. You can’t help but smile and laugh as you spin around with strangers from all over the world.

    Indoor Pools

    After the outdoor whirlpool fun, we ventured inside. Warm, echoing rooms with stone columns, high ceilings, and mineral-rich water that felt like something out of ancient Rome. For a moment, it really did feel like we were living in the time of Caesar.

    And what struck me most was the lack of judgment. I’m a large man and could easily lose forty or fifty pounds. But none of that mattered. Every body type was represented. Nobody was performing. Nobody was trying to look perfect. We were all just humans soaking, relaxing, and enjoying the moment.

    Fruit, Cocktails & Quiet

    Eventually we made our way into the private arboretum — quiet, warm, peaceful. We sat with our fruit, cocktails, and tea, letting the afternoon drift a little slower. A soft pause before the next part of the day.

    The Massage

    After our drinks we made our way to the massage meeting location. A staff member led us down hallways that felt like a cross between a church and a palace — high ceilings, ornate details, the kind of place you usually only see in movies.

    We waited in a luxurious hallway until our masseuses arrived and greeted us warmly.
    Then we drifted away for 45 minutes of heaven.

    Traveling is wonderful — but it’s also hard work. We needed this moment.

    More Explorations

    After our massages we still had time to explore the steam rooms, the cold plunge, the salt inhalation room, and more indoor pools. This place is huge — so huge that I actually got lost. Donna later told me she saw me walk past the same set of glass doors three different times before I finally went through them.

    Returning Home to the Rinda

    We finally closed the place down a little before 8:00 PM. Our Uber ride back was a story in itself — but we made it to the Rinda just as people were finishing dinner.

    We assumed the kitchen was closed. Teo and Yuri greeted us warmly, and we asked if they had anything simple — maybe soup and bread. Daniel, the maître d’, noticed us and gave us a look that said, “Don’t worry.”

    A few minutes later, out came a full main course.

    This is why people cruise on Viking.

    We had a lovely day at the spa, and when we returned to our Rinda home, our Viking family wrapped us back in comfort. The next morning we stayed on board — blogging, relaxing, letting yesterday’s warmth settle into our bones. After lunch, we’ll wander the market. We’ve got time today — just be back by 9:30 PM.
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