Europe 2023

September - Oktober 2023
  • Danielle and Co travels
We are off to Europe to catch up with family, explore new cities and revisit some favourites. We will also be joining a walk and wine tour with Explore through Spain and Portugal. Baca lagi
  • Danielle and Co travels

Senarai negara

  • Portugal Portugal
  • Sepanyol Sepanyol
  • Perancis Perancis
  • Belgium Belgium
  • England England
  • Australia Australia
Kategori
Keluarga, Bersiar-siar, Keretapi, Percutian
  • 19.9rbkilometer perjalanan
Cara pengangkutan
  • Penerbangan16.5rbkilometer
  • Berjalan-kilometer
  • Pendakian-kilometer
  • Basikal-kilometer
  • Motosikal-kilometer
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometer
  • Kereta-kilometer
  • Keretapi-kilometer
  • Bas-kilometer
  • Camper-kilometer
  • Karavan-kilometer
  • 4x4-kilometer
  • Berenang-kilometer
  • Mendayung-kilometer
  • Motobot-kilometer
  • Berlayar-kilometer
  • Rumah bot-kilometer
  • Feri-kilometer
  • Kapal pesiar-kilometer
  • Kuda-kilometer
  • Bermain ski-kilometer
  • Tumpang-kilometer
  • Cable car-kilometer
  • Helikopter-kilometer
  • Kaki Ayam-kilometer
  • 113footprint
  • 48hari
  • 2.0rbgambar
  • 116suka
  • The walk up to the palace is quite steep
    Approaching the castleThere are moorish influences throught the palaceSo colourful and funStanding on the first floor balconyThe central courtyard was a piece of artThe tiles are divineBeautiful internal courtyardThe work on the ceilings is unbelievableLovely view from one of the many terraces

    Pena Palace

    23 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We pre-booked our tickets to visit Pena Palace and I am so glad we did. We walked into Sintra to catch a public bus up to the palace, we found the bus stop and waited. What we experienced was a unending line of tour buses letting out huge groups right where we were waiting. It was like tsunami of tour groups - our worst nightmare. The buses were lined up four in a row, double and triple parked, blocking traffic and generally causing pandemonium. A local plod eventually stepped in and restored a bit of order.

    Our bus, the 434, eventually managed to get through but had nowhere to stop. Finally, there was room and the bus driver pulled in. We all hopped on and headed off on what we had been told was about a 15 minute bus ride up to the palace. We stopped near Sintra train station to let more people on and then stayed put for at least 15 minutes. We could see the clock ticking down to our 10:30 am entry time (which we were told was strictly enforced), so I asked the driver when we might start moving. He said that he would be departing in 5 minutes but, not to worry they, would let us in. We were only dropped off outside the gate of the Peña Palace at 10.40 am. Then, to my horror, I realised we have to schlepp up a steep hill to get to the castle. By the time we reached the line it was 10.55 am and the 11 am group were about to be let in. Lucky, the guy scanning tickets took pity and told us to walk ahead of the 11 am group. We finally entered the palace just before 11 am and I was sweating from head to toe.

    I could now breath normally again and slowly recovered as we walked slowly through this most impressive building following the long conga line of other tourists. Peña Palace stands on the top of a hill in the mountains above the town of Sintra. On a clear day the castle can easily be seen from Lisbon. It is a national monument and is one of the major expressions of 19th century Romanticism in the world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of Portugal. And, it’s very crowded.

    The castle’s history started in the Middle Ages when a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Peña was built on top of the hill above Sintra. Then in 1493, King John, accompanied by his wife Queen Leonor, made a pilgrimage to the site to fulfill a vow. His successor, King Manual I, was also fond of this sanctuary, and ordered the construction of the monastery, which was donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. For centuries Peña was a small quiet place for meditation, housing a maximum of 18 monks.

    In the 18th century the monastery was severely damaged by lightening and then the Great Lisbon earthquake, reduced it to ruins. For decades the ruins remained untouched. In 1838, King Ferdinand II decided to acquire the old monastery, all the surrounding lands, the nearby Castle of the Moors and a few other estates in the area.
    He then proceeded to transform the remains of the monastery into a palace that would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. Construction took place between 1842 and 1854.

    In 1995, the palace and the rest of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra were classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

    It is simply breathtaking to see and the craftsmanship on display is quite wonderful. There area a number of different styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo- Renaissance. We spent a couple of hours exploring the palace and it’s gardens.
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  • Walking up to the Moorish Castle
    View from belowAnother view from belowView looking down into the valley from a turretIan descending the turretOther aspect of the castle wallsMoss covers much of the stone workThe castle lit up at nightThe Moorish castle looks magical lit up at night

    Castle of the Moors

    23 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After the over the top Peña Palace we walked down the hill to the Castelo Dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors). In fact it isn’t a castle any longer but the ruins of what was once I imagine quite an impressive castle.

    It was a medieval hilltop castle built by the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries. It was an important strategic point during the Reconquista, which were the military campaigns that Christian kingdoms waged against the Muslim kingdoms following the Muslim conquest of Spain (710-780).

    In the 12th century, the chapel constructed within the walls of the castle became the parish seat. It was also remodelled under King Sancho I of Portugal. In 1375 King Ferdinand I of Portugal, ordered the rebuilding of the castle. It was well fortified by 1383, but most inhabitants were abandoning the castle for the old village of Sintra. By the 16th century a small Jewish community was using and occupying the castle but they were expelled by Manuel I of Portugal.

    The 1755 Lisbon earthquake caused considerable damage to the chapel and affected the stability of the castle. It was classified as a National Monument, part of the Sintra Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We clambered up and down the walls of the castle, which provided great views down over Sintra. Some of the paths along the walls were very narrow and didn’t have any railings, which made it interesting and a bit scary when we passed people going the opposite way.
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  • Making our way slowly down from the Moorish Castle
    A tomb that contains remains that were found while repairing the chapelThe leaves are slowly turning and fallingChurch of Sāo Miguel, this was one of the four churches established after the conquest of the MoorsLovely old property full of characterCalćada de Santa Maria 2 - one of the first four Curches founded in Sintra by Alfonso HenriquesView back to the National Palace of SintraTravesseiroStunning shelter on the side of the roadRomança-Vergel by Moisée Preto PauloDancing Shiva by Maria KramarOui, c'est Moi by João SoteroAnan Paula by Pedro Anjos TeixeiraPartilha de Emoçōes by Manuel PintoMegalitique by Giancarlo Caporicci"Agonis Silenciosa" by Hélio OliveiraArianrhod by Nicolau Campos

    More memories of Sintra

    23 Oktober 2023, Portugal

    After exploring the Moorish Castle we decided to walk back into town. It was about a 1.5 km walk, down a winding path through a shady forest. Being downhill it was was much easier going but, as it was a little wet, we needed to be mindful of slipping. We got lovely views of the town as we made our way down.

    Our first stop on arriving back in town was at a cafe to have some afternoon tea. We had a Travesseiro de Sintra (Sintra pillow) pastry, which was very nice, with a coffee and this gave us the caffeine and sugar hit required to do a little more exploring around Sintra.

    While going up to the Peña Palace on the bus, we had noticed some sculptures along the main road which are part of a public Art Exhibition. There were a number of excellent pieces on display. We then headed back to the hotel for a bit of R & R before heading out for dinner.
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  • The Peacocks of Quinta dos Lobos

    24 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The peacocks on the property we stayed at in Sintra were quite tame and beautiful. On the morning we were leaving they finally put on a bit of a show and shook their tail feathers. They were trying to impress one of the pea hens but she was having none of it.Baca lagi

  • Time out marketHappy with his glass of redLunchCheersWe had a great afternoon with these lovely peopleMaking new friendsThen we had to venture out in the rainMy new umbrella matches my rain jacketOur Basque friendsPeruvian restaurantCheersThey make a mean Pisco SourChicken & cheese pastriesCevichePotato & Chicken dishCaesar Salad

    Soggy Lisbon

    24 Oktober 2023, Portugal

    We left a wet Sintra just after 11 am. We had booked an UBER as I was over schlepping luggage on and off trains plus I had bought a couple of things and my bad was getting heavier. Our driver, Wagner dropped us off at our Lisbon apartment about 12.30 pm and luckily we were able to get early access (thanks Marta & Maria).

    Our apartment was lovely and so centrally located, very close to the main square Praça do Comércio. After unpacking and getting settled into our new home for the next five days, we headed out for lunch. It was a very rainy day so we decided to head to the Time Out Market. It was very crowded, but it was to be expected as the rain just kept getting heavier. The market has food and drink stalls around the outside and large communal tables in the middle, but space was at a premium.

    We ordered some food (empanadas and fried squid) and wine and then looked for a place to prop. A guy was leaving a seat at a table, so we grabbed it and we were able to at least have a spot to put our food. There were another two couples sitting with us and we started chatting to them. One couple, Jackson and Courtney, were from Ontario and the other couple, Christina and Alphar, were from Germany. They were very friendly and up for a yarn. We had a wonderful afternoon chatting with them and having a few drinks.

    We finally had to say goodbye and, before leaving, had a warm pastel de nata with a pingado (small) coffee. We then headed out and it was bucketing down. My little cheap umbrella was not cutting it - as well as pelting down the wind was getting stronger - so we stopped at a store and bought me a new umbrella, which at least kept the top half of me fairly dry. On our way home we made a detour to a supermarket to pick up some supplies.

    Today the city was full of chanting and happy Basque football fans, conspicuous in their blue and white jumpers, as the San Sebastián team (Real Sociedad) was playing a local Lisbon team (Benfica) in the European champions league. They were out and about everywhere and packing the bars. There were also a lot of police around, some with riot shields and machine guns, presumably just in case the crazy Basques got out of control. On our way home we ran into some Basque fans drinking at a bar who we had a quick chat to before heading back to the apartment to get out of our wet clothes. The Basque team won and, to our great surprise, the city was very quiet at night.

    In the evening we had dinner at a Peruvian restaurant, QOSQO, which we had been to twice in 2019. As expected, the food was delicious.
    Baca lagi

  • Sunny Lisbon

    25 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We decided to head out and just explore the “hood” this morning. We first wandered down to Praça do Comércio to see what was happening, and it was much quieter than the previous day as all the Basques had gone home. We then had a great time just wandering the narrow streets and laneways, and climbing many stairs, in the Alfama district. We did a bit of shopping and also stopped for a pastel de nata and a pingado. We met an interesting American women who was on her way to Malta to play in a big stakes poker competition.

    There were a lot of British tourists about as there were a number of large cruise ships docked. We talked to some people from Southhampton who told us they only had four hours in the city. Lucky for them it wasn’t raining.

    Lisbon is a colourful and lively city and it is so good to be back.
    Baca lagi

  • Out the front of Alma
    CheersWe chose the Alma menuEnjoying his MadeiraBurrata & pickled strawberry tartSeafood soupPork crackle with suckling pig crumb and chilli mayoTuna tartareSeafood mousse with sardineCucumber and jack fish gazpachoFrancisco pouring olive oil

    Amazing alma

    25 Oktober 2023, Portugal

    We arrived at the allocated time and found a locked green door. There was a bell which Ian suggested I push and, like magic, the door opened and we were greeted by a lovely young woman. We were then taken into a lovely large room with high ceilings and beautiful wooden tables which were generous in size and well spaced apart. The young lady then handed us over to Gonçalo, who introduced himself as our sommelier.

    We decided to start with an aperitif, Ian a dry Madeira and me French bubbles. As we sipped on our drinks, Francisco introduced himself and gave us the menu. He explained that there were two tasting menus or a la carte to choose from. We decided to go for the tasting menu and chose the ‘The Alma’ which is a menu inspired by the Chef’s classics.

    I had to take notes as we had each offering as there were six flavour bombs that were presented before we got the bread and first course. We first had a burrata and pickled strawberry tart; next was a soup from the Algave - prawn, celery, fennel and caviar. This was followed by Roasted pork skin with suckling pig crumb and a chilli mayo (Ian declared he could have eaten 20 of them). Next was a dish that was supposed to resemble a french fry and ketchup, but which was actually a fried strip of red capsicum coated in a charcoal crumb, and the ketchup was a roasted red pepper sauce with a gel. This concluded the pre-amuse-bouche courses!

    We then had tuna tartare with ginger, lemon cress and fried capers. Next was a bread and seafood mousse with a sardine, fried onions and sandfire. The last amuse bouche was a cucumber and jack fish gazpacho with finger limes. It was a seasonal melon that has a taste profile like a cucumber and is only available in September and October. It was a great palate cleanser. By this stage we had been there about an hour.

    The first actual course of the menu was a carrot dish - carrots, bulghur, apricot purée, goats cheese and cumin oil. It was spectacular and I would turn vegetarian if all meals tasted like this one! Second course was Foie Gras with apple, granola, beetroot and coffee. This dish was superb and even Ian enjoyed the Foie Gras as it was so light and masterfully prepared. Third course was Salted cod (we are in Portugal, so cod had to figure in the menu). It was prepared with coriander, brandade (an emulsion of salt cod, olive oil and potatoes) and kale. Fourth course was Alentejo style pork (the neck), with red pepper paste, ‘bulhāo pato’ clam sauce, which is steamed clams with lemon, garlic, s & p, white wine, coriander.

    Fifth course, and the introduction to dessert, was Orange and Almond - a beautifully fresh dessert of almond crumb, orange sorbet, fresh orange, a red onion tuile and a gel. Sixth course was ‘Brisa do Lis’ which comprised of garden peas, chamomile ice cream, cured egg yolk. And, if that wasn’t enough, we then were presented with a plate of petite fours and a pingado (what the Portuguese call a piccolo).

    I am listing the wines separately as we tried such a variety, all recommended by our ‘wine angel’ Gonçalo. The wine list is predominantly local, the only exceptions were my champagne and dessert wine, both French.

    Delamotte Champagne, Blanc De Blancs
    D’Oliveira Terrantez Madeira 1988
    Parcels Única, Green Wine 2020 - made by the godfather of Green wine
    Primus 2021 DÃO D.O.C.
    Quinta Do Ribeirinho, Serçialinho, Luis Pato, Vinson Branco 2021
    Os Paulistas, Vinhas Velhas, DOC Alentejo, 2020
    Nossa Calcario, Braga 2016, Bairrada DOC (without makeup)
    Boa-Vista, Douro Reserva, Tinto, 2019
    Mouchão, Alentejo DOC, Tinto, 2016
    Château d’Yquem, 2016
    Malvasia, Madeira 1945
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