Europe 2024

September - November 2024
  • Danielle and Co travels
Heading off with my BFF to Scotland and then meeting Ian in France to make some wonderful memories. Baca lagi
  • Danielle and Co travels

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  • Farewell Fort William

    20 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    This morning we begrudgingly left our wonderful accommodation, The Grange and hosts, Jenni and Neil to make our way to Glasgow. The drive takes about 2.5 hours and we made our way along the A82 past Ben Nevis and Glencoe and then onto the A898 through some beautiful country past Crianlarich and along Loch Lomond, the scenery is quite different from the Highlands, with large wooded areas and more dense vegetation. We also passed Dumbarton and Erskine as we then made our way into the centre of Glasgow on the M8 and M77. We dropped off our hire car and then Brian the shuttle bus driver took us to our hotel, the Fraser Suites. We were able to check in early which was handy.

    For our tour to Skye which starts in the morning we have luggage restrictions, so we had to take our large cases to Central Station to store them for the next 3 days. This is not cheap but we don’t have a choice.

    After getting our luggage sorted we went to the post office to ship a few things back to Australia, this took a while to do but was much easier than when I have done it in France in previous years. Administrative jobs complete we walked around Glasgow for a bit, stopped at Mòr Bakery, which has become a favourite whilst in Scotland and had a late lunch.

    We made our way back towards our hotel which is located in the Merchant City area. We also had a look at the lovely old clock tower in High street and the Tron Theatre, which was formerly known as the Tron Kirk. The building is now home to the Tron Theatre Company and serves as a producing house for contemporary theatrical work.

    We will be having a quiet night relaxing in our rooms as it has been go, go, go all week.
    Baca lagi

  • Heading to the Isle of Skye

    21 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    This morning we walked up to Buchanan Bus Station through Merchant City, to meet up with our tour group and head to the Isle of Skye. The route we are taking means there is a bit of back tracking as we head back up into the Highlands. Our bus driver and tour guide is a lovely man named Gary, he is very informative, lots of fun and has some great Scottish music to play as we head through various areas of the Highlands. We are a group of eight, a German couple and an Indian family.

    Our first stop was Loch Loman, we then passed Ben Loman followed by Loch Tulla, Glencoe and the Three Sisters. Gary told us about a terrible massacre that occurred in the original Glencoe on 13 February 1692. Thirty-eight members of the MacDonalds clan - men, women and children - were murdered by the Campbells at the behest of the English King William III for failing to swear allegiance to him by the due date.

    We stopped at the Bridge of Orchy for a photo opportunity before arriving at
    the Three Sisters where there was a piper, McClusker the Busker who entertained us. We stopped for lunch at Fort William, before continuing our journey north. We then stopped at Spean Bridge where we were afforded wonderful views of the large mountain ranges and visited the Commandos memorial. We then passed Loch Gary and Loch Cluanie and stopped at Glenshiel for a delicious hot chocolate.

    We then made our way to Eilean Donan castle. The castle was destroyed as a result of a Jacobite uprising.There were a number of Jacobite uprisings, Jacobites were loyal to King James Stuart who was trying to regain the thrones of England, Ireland and Scotland. In 1719 the castle was garrisoned by 46 Spanish soldiers who were supporting the Jacobites. They had established a magazine of gunpowder, and were awaiting the delivery of weapons and cannon from Spain. The English became aware of this and sent three heavily armed frigates to quell matters after attacking the castle for three days with little impact. The captain sent his men ashore and they were able to overwhelm the Spanish soldiers. They then discovered the 343 barrels of gunpowder which they used to destroy the castle. The castle remained in ruins for 200 years. The castle was bought by Lt ColonelJohn Macrae-Gilstrap who dedicated the next 20 years of his life to the reconstruction of Eilean Donan, to her former glory. The castle is definitely impressive and imposing and the family is still in residence.

    We then had a short drive to Skye. We crossed over to the island via the bridge and drove around to Broadford and our Bed and Breakfast for the next few days. Katie and I went to a local Italian restaurant for wood fired pizzas, which were delicious.
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  • Isle of Skye

    22 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today we left our B & B at 9am as we have a full day of sightseeing ahead of us. We drove north past the red and black coolings- the red coolings are rose granite that is from the outer area of the volcano and the black coolings which is black shist emanates from the centre of the volcano. We then headed to Sligachan where we visited the Cuillin, Britain’s most dramatic mountain range. For over 200 years, these peaks have attracted geologists, tourists, and climbers from around the world. Fire and ice shaped this unique landscape, but local people - like John Mackenzie- helped make Skye the mountaineering destination it remains today.

    Two mountain ranges make up the Cuillin. The jagged peaks of the Black Cuillin and contrast sharply with the smooth Red Hills. Both formed deep in a volcano about 60 million years ago. Among the first outsiders to climb in the Cuillin were geologists. Many important theories in geology have been developed or tested in these mountains. Geologists discovered that the insides of extinct volcanoes appear on the surface here. This makes Skye one of the best places in the world to study how volcanoes form.

    We then headed off to the Fairy Pools near the village of Carbost in Glenbrittle. Many tributaries of the River Brittle run down from the Cuillin into the glen including a stream with waterfalls known as the Fairy Pools. The Fairy Pools are beautiful rock pools of translucent mountain spring water fed by a series of waterfalls. After that we walked to Glenbrittle beach which is a popular camping spot.

    Our next stop was to Portree, the capital of Skye and the largest town on the island. It is a beautiful and picturesque town with a lovely harbour, town square and a number of beautifully restored buildings. We had lunch at the Portree hotel and then did a bit of a wander down to the harbour which was glorious on such a sunny day.

    We then headed out of town to the Old Man of Storr which is situated in the north of Skye in the Trotternish area and is famous for its magnificent scenery and views, we just admired it from a distance and did not do the walk due to time. We next went to Kilt Rock, a 90-metre-high wall of multi-coloured hexagonal columns of basalt rock and dole rite sills which resemble the pleats of a tartan kilt. There is also a large waterfall called Mealt Falls in the foreground which is fed by the fresh waters of Loch Mealt near Ellishadder and has a drop of 60 metres down to the rocky coastline.

    Our next stop was to The Quiraing. It is a landform on the eastern face of Meall na Suiramach, the northernmost summit of the Trotternish escarpment. It has a range of landforms and other distinctive features. It is another popular walk but due to time some of us did a short walk of about 45 minutes along some of the pathways. The Quiraing was formed when a thick layer of flood basalt spread over the peninsula and destabilised the weak sedimentary rocks below, causing a succession of landslides. The views were amazing and I can only image how spectacular they would be from the summit.

    Our final destination before heading back to Pier House was the Fairy Glen which is located in the hills above the village of Uig. It is quite a strange landscape which was created by a land slip. It is a short walk over small mounds and paths towards a rocky and gnarly hill called Castle Ewen. I climbed up about 90% of the way but the last little bit had some large steps that were uneven and a bit slippery so I chose not to climb to the summit. I still got beautiful views of the surrounding area and it is quite magical.

    Over the day we drove over 250kms and saw some wonderful sites on this magnificent part of Scotland, I will definitely have to return with Ian as this is where his ancestors came from.
    Baca lagi

  • Waiting for the ferry in Glenelg
    Road to Glenelg for the ferry crossingMainland ScotlandThe ferryman's houseThe turntable ferry heading to pick us upLow cloud and mist on the mountainsLovely house in Fort AugustusStaircase of locks looking down to Loch NessOne of the locksFort Augustus, currently a hotel, has been a fort, monastery & schoolKatie and I on the banks of Loch NessThe banks of Loch NessSpean BridgeThe whole groupLovely Inn - PitlochryMain drag PitlochryBeautiful hotel - PitlochryAutumn coloursBeautiful buildings in PitlochryFisher Hotel, PitlochryFerry approachingFerry unloading - the dog is a deckhand and loves crossing

    Glasgow bound

    23 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We were off again by 9am to make our way back to Glasgow. Today is the first day that we have woken to a cloudy sky, so we are now experiencing the ‘real’ Scotland according to everyone. We headed to Glenelg to catch the ferry across to the mainland which is about 600 metres away! We decided to take this option instead of the bridge as the ferry is the last “turntable” ferry left in Scotland. As we waited for the ferryman, we saw some seals swimming about. We also got nipped by the midges which is bloody annoying. Finally we boarded the ferry which only has capacity for our smallish bus and two cars and before you could whistle Dixie we arrived in Kylerhea.

    After a quick toilet stop we headed back down through the highlands to Fort Augustus and Loch Ness. Today the landscape is quite different with the low hanging clouds, mist and grey skies but still very beautiful.

    Fort Augustus was very busy with tourists, luckily we arrived before noon and so before the big influx of tourists busses at 12.30. We found a lovely little pub to have a light lunch before heading out to explore the town and down to the banks of Loch Ness. We also walked along the staircase of the five locks which are part of a larger lock system that goes across to Fort William and Neptune’s Staircase.

    As we head south towards Glasgow we made two more stops, the first at the small town of Spean Bridge and the last at the most beautiful town called Pitlochry, will definitely have to revisit at some stage as we only had an hour here. As we left the highlands and crossed over to the lowlands we passed Stirling Castle, which looked quite impressive from afar.

    For the entire trip our bus driver and tour guide Gary played some wonderful music that had some connection to Scotland, so we heard the Proclaimers, Rod Stewart, Lewis Capaldi, Bay City Rollers, The Red Hot Chilli Pipers, Annie Lennox, Mark Knopfler and a whole lot more which really added to the experience. As we said our good byes and bid everyone farewell the rain began to fall, only lightly but still by the time we walked to pick up the keys for our Airbnb, our suitcases from the station and made our way back to our apartment we were knackered. The apartment is lovely and comfortable and centrally located. We went out to a local Italian restaurant for dinner and had an early night.
    Baca lagi

  • George Square looking towards the City Council Chambers
    Our guide HopeRobert BurnsThomas Graham (Chemist)George SquareGeorge SquareWar memorial George SquareStreet Art at University of StrathClydeTeneu Mural by SmugSaint Mungo mural by SmugChurch, StrathClyde UniversityThe Royal InfirmaryThe Glasgow CathedralStreets of GlasgowOne of the oldest houses in GlasgowStatue of Dr Livingstone (I presume)More Glaswegian architectureMuseum of Modern Art, was previously a wealthy merchant's home (William Cunninghame) built in 1778Statue of Wellington adorned with traffic cone

    Glasgow - getting to know you!

    24 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We left our apartment about 10am to head to George Square to meet up for a walking tour of Glasgow. Once again the weather is looking great - blue sky and sunshine and quite mild, although rain is forecast. We met up with our guide Hope and about a dozen or so other travellers from Naples, US, Canada and London. Hope was an excellent guide and provided some history about the city and its beginning. There is definitely a rivalry between Glasgow and Edinburgh (not unlike the Melbourne Sydney rivalry).

    Glasgow grew from a small rural settlement near the Glasgow Cathedral and grew to be the largest seaport in Scotland and from the 18th century trade with North America and West Indies grew and soon trade with the Orient and India followed. Much of the city’s wealth came from trading ( tobacco, people and cloth).

    With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, the population and economy of Glasgow and the surrounding regions expanded rapidly to become one of the world’s centres of chemicals, textiles and engineering, most notably in the ship building and marine engineering industries.

    The coat of arms of the city of Glasgow incorporates a number of symbols and emblems associated with the life of Glasgow’s patron saint, Mungo. The emblems represent “miracles” supposedly performed by Mungo. There is a little poem that explains the emblems: the bird that never flew, the tree that never grew, the bell that never rang, the fish that never swam.

    We saw George Square and the many buildings surrounding the square and heard some of the history associated with them, the City Council Chambers, Glasgow Cathedral, The Royal Infirmary, the Glasgow Necropolis and the Gallery of Modern Art, including the statue of Wellington that has a traffic cone on his head, in fact a number of statues have these adornments and as quickly as the City Council remove them, they are back the next day. According to Hope, the Glaswegians find this humorous and so after a few drinks at the pub they make sure the traffic cone is placed back on the statue.

    We also heard about Teneu, mother of Saint Mungo, the patron Saint of Glasgow. She was a princess and she was attacked by a young man and fell pregnant. Her father King Lleuddun blamed Teneu and ordered she be killed by being thrown off a cliff. She survived the fall as did the baby. She was then set adrift in a boat but was rescued by monks who took her in and in this community she gave birth to Mungo and lived out the rest of her life. There is a wonderful piece of art that portrays this story which was done by Smug (aka Sam Bates) an Australian contemporary street-artist who has lived in Glasgow for the past 20 years. He portrays Teneu in modern dress as the issue of sexual assault and victim blaming is still a real issue in this day and age. We also got to see another painting Smug has done of Saint Mungo. Both are just brilliant and show what a talented artist he is. His murals are photo-realistic and are done completely freehand, using aerosol cans alone and he completes these huge murals in a week or two.
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  • Wind power by Rogue Oner (2014)
    Stencil - Not Dead Yet by Tony TrobridgeHoney I Shrunk the Kids by SmugMost Economical Taxi by Rogue Oner - private commission (2011)Dr Connolly I Presume by Jack VitrianiExperimental area for street artCouldn't resist including this as it was my dad's nameExperimental areaExperimental area, this one is a collaboration between Froderick and Box VincentSecond Billy Connolly painting by John Byrne, a close friendThomas Muir, a private commission done by Rogue OnerThis was done by the Fearless Collective, a SE Asian female groupThe Pride Flag, Merchant CityFalling in Love by the Rebel Bear (a private commission)Part of the four seasons mural by SmugPart of the four seasons mural by SmugPart of the four seasons by SmugPart of the four seasons mural by SmugPart of the four seasons mural by SmugPart of the four seasons mural by Smug

    Glasgow Street Art walking tour

    24 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This afternoon I went on a street art tour which was wonderful but a bit wet. Liz our guide gave us a bit of history about graffiti and street art. She introduced us to the work of some very talented street artists including Smug, whose work I had seen on the morning tour, Rogue Oner, Froderick, The Rebel Bear (who was inspired by Banksy) the Fearless Collective and Tony Trobridge.

    Through the pouring rain we walked down towards the Clyde and on the way saw some amazing street art and murals. Unfortunately, some of the murals are at risk of being lost as neighbouring land at a number of locations has been sold to developers, who when they build will possibly cover up or destroy some of these murals.

    There is an area down near the river Clyde that is an “experiment”. A large area has been allocated for artists to come and do their work. It has some amazing work and hopefully will stop being a trial and become a permanent area for street artists to share their work.

    Our last stop was at an amazing mural representing the four seasons and done by Smug. It is huge and so detailed and it took Smug two weeks to complete. It is one of the murals with an uncertain future due to adjacent land being purchased by developers.
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  • Doune Castle
    Inner courtyardLarge dining roomThe Great HallView from Doune CastleOur fabulous tour guide KaitlinFalkland PalaceThe Covenanter Hotel, FalklandBruce Fountain, FalklandOriginal information regarding a house in FalklandMidhope Castle, known as Lallybroch in OutlanderAnother view of Midhope Castle, Lallybroch in OutlanderBlackness Castle which was Fort William in OutlanderThe walkway at Blackness CastleThe Three Bridges that cross the River ForthLookout at Blackness CastleMeerkat in Culross

    Outlander Tour

    25 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We dropped into my favourite place in Glasgow, Riverhill Coffee Bar, for a coffee and snack before heading to Buchanan Bus Station to join the Rabbies Outlander Tour. I declare upfront there were no sightings of Jamie, Claire or other members of the cast of the show. The tour takes you to a range of locations that were used in the series. There were 11 of us on the tour and there were probably 50% who were avid or serious fans and the rest of us were interested. The locations were all lovely and it was a very enjoyable day.

    Our first stop was Castle Doune, a lovely Castle in Stirling whose exterior was used as the fictional Castle Leoch, home to Clan Mackenzie in Outlander. It is a stunning castle with a tall gate house, an impressive great hall and lovely views of the river Teith. Much of this 14th century castle is still accessible and gives you some insight into how the well to do lived in this time. Castle Doune was heavily featured in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, and was also used for the castle known as Winterfell in the pilot of the Game of Thrones series.

    Our next stop was a beautiful village called Falkland which represented 1940’s Inverness where the first episode of the show was shot. We saw Mrs Baird’s guesthouse which in real life is the Covenanter Hotel and the Bruce Fountain where Claire’s husband Frank sees the ghost of Jamie. We had time to explore this lovely village, grab lunch and do some shopping.

    Our next stop was Midhope Castle, Jaime’s family home Lallybroch. Only the external of this castle is used as the interior has deteriorated and is no longer safe. Midhope Castle is a 15th century tower house and is situated in the hamlet of Abercorn on the Hopetoun estate, about 4kms to the west of South Queensferry on the outskirts of Edinburgh. I think most of the group enjoyed this stop the most.

    On our way to our next location we crossed over the Forth river on one of the three bridges that cross the mighty Forth river that connects Fife and Edinburgh. The first bridge was built in 1890 and is a train bridge, the second bridge was built in 1964 and was used by all other traffic u til the most recent bridge was built in 2017. Now the middle bridge is only available to buses and taxis. Towering side by side over the Forth River, these structures represent the pinnacle of engineering across three centuries.

    Our next castle was Blackness Castle, an impressive 15th century fortress. It was used in Outlander to represent Fort William, where Jamie had received lashes from Captain Jack Randall. It is also where Jamie’s father died, having to endure watching his son being punished. This is also where Jamie breaks into the castle, rescuing Claire from the hands of Black Jack.

    Built by the Crichton family in the 15th century, Blackness Castle is one of Scotland’s most impressive strongholds. It has been used as a royal castle, prison and weapons store as well as a location for filming a variety of shows including Outlander and Hamlet. Shaped like a ship the castle is often referred to as “the ship that never sailed”.

    Our last stop was to the 16th century village of Culross, in Fife, which poses as Cranesmuir in Outlander. The town is owned by the National Trust of Scotland who have been instrumental in helping preserve the town’s historical buildings, many dating to the 18th century.This location includes the home of Geillis Duncan, and is used for outdoor scenes during and after the witch trial. There was further filming of Outlander season 4 at this location.
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  • Our final evening in Glasgow
    Wonderful GlasgowThe light in Glasgow has been superbSome final street art we discovered on our final dayAnd anotherNot a bad mottoOff to Edinburgh for the flight to ParisOur home whilst in ParisOur streetFirst view of the Eiffel TowerWe had a few meals here at our localLovely redDelicious Brûlée

    Farewell Glasgow Bonjour Paris

    26 September 2024, Scotland ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    After a big day on the Outlander Tour we headed out for an early dinner before heading back to the apartment to pack and be ready for an early start as we have to catch a bus back to Edinburgh for our flight to Paris. We were up early and ready to go at the planned time. I had to take the apartment key back to the place we collected it from which was a couple of blocks away. The weather this morning is chilly with a light rain falling but not too bad. On the way to Buchanan Bus Depot we stopped for a coffee and a snack before making our way to the bus depot to await our departure.

    The bus left on time and the traffic wasn’t too bad considering the weather was deteriorating as the morning went on. We arrived at Edinburgh airport, checked in our bags and found a nice restaurant to have some breakfast as we awaited our plane’s departure. We got away on time and the flight was uneventful. We landed at Charles de Gaulle on time and we were bused over to the terminal to go through customs and collect our bags. The weather in Paris is shocking, absolutely pouring. We joined the taxi line and after about 30 minutes we were in a taxi making our way very slowly to our hotel. The traffic was terrible, but what you would expect in such bad weather. We finally arrived at our hotel just before 6pm, so the trip took about 90-100 minutes and our driver kept apologising and we kept telling him it wasn’t his fault. Luckily taxis have set tariffs in Paris now, so the long ride didn’t change the cost of the trip.

    We arrived at our hotel, checked in and then went for an early dinner to Café Dupleix. We seem to be in a fairly central and lively area.
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  • On the metro
    Delicious snack before our pastry tourApple tart - deliciousFound a great coffee spotFabulous flat white - felt like I was in MelbourneLove Parisian buildingsRat catching business window!Fun decorations on a building- we weren't sure what went on thereRue de RivoliInteresting sculptures

    Good Morning Paris

    27 September 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This morning we headed off to meet our guide who will be taking us on a pastry tour around the Marais (4th Arrondissment). We went to our local metro station which is literally across the street from our hotel and bought ourselves a carnet which is 10 metro tickets. We then caught the metro to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile to get on the number one line and go to Châtelet. Travel on the metro in Paris is just wonderful, so quick and easy to use. In Châtelet we had a snack and a coffee before heading to our meeting point. We had time to just wander about and soak up the city.Baca lagi

  • Sam our guide
    Croissant to start the pastry journeyLovely street art all around usPassage Bourg L'abbéLemon Madeleine was divineGrand Cerf after who the passageway is namedBeautiful Grand Cerf PassagewayPurple umbrellas in the 1stDelicious ChouSo many wonderful food stores on this rueFou de PatissiereSelection from Fou de PatissiereThe fruit is just so goodOldest patisserie in ParisSome of the options at StohrerFig tart

    Paris Pastry Tour

    27 September 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This morning I arranged for us to do a pastry tour. We met our guide Sam at the allotted time and headed off. Sam is a warm and interesting American from Missouri who has lived in Paris for about 10 years. She initially moved to Paris for film school but then shifted to cooking and specifically pastry. Sam is multi lingual- she speaks French, Spanish, German and Mandarin.

    Our tour was done predominantly in the Marais (4th Arrondissement) but we did crowd over into the 1st, 2nd & 3rd as well. The tour was a great combination of history and tasting pastries (and even some chocolate). We started our adventure at Saint-Merri church, where she told us where pastries, specifically the croissant originated. The croissant can be traced back to 13th century Austria, where it was called the kipferl, the German word for crescent. It was an Austrian artillery officer August Zhang who founded a bakery, which inspired imitators and the French version became known as the croissant, which is French for crescent. Croissants are part of the category of pastries that the French call Viennoiseries, a nod to their origins in Vienna. The rest of the products created by bakers are referred to as Pattisseries which don’t require yeast.

    While learning about the history of Viennoiseries Sam gave us a croissant from one of the most popular Boulangerie called Bo & Mie which were so good. We then moved on to Rue Quincampoix where you can visit one of the covered passages of Paris, this one is called Passage Molière and is full of beautiful stores filled with paper products, writing journals, cards and pens. By 1867 there were approximately 183 covered passages in Paris but many were demolished during Haussmann’s renovation of Paris. Only 25 have survived into the 21st century, all but one are in the arrondissements on the Right Bank.

    Our next pastry was a lemon madeleine that was from Bo &Mie and we ate it as we entered another covered passage, Bourg L’abbé which runs between Saint-Denis street and Palestro street and is named after an old village formerly located in the same place. We then walked through the Grand-Cerf covered passageway. It was built in 1825 and at 12 metres high, it is one of the tallest in Paris. Its metal and wrought-iron structure lets in a lot of light due to the glass roof. It is full of beautiful craft stores selling jewellery, furniture, clothes, lighting and a host of other artisan products. We returned there after the tour and Katie purchased a few things.

    Our next stop was Odette, which is all about the Chou, I tried a raspberry one and Katie Hazelnut. We then went to Fou De Patisserie, an enterprise that partners with prominent French pastry chefs to bring their creations together under a single roof - on the day we visited there were pastries from Angelina, Pierre Hermé, Vincent Guerlais, Cédric Grolet, Pierre Marcolini and the French Bastards. The biggest challenge was choosing a pastry. Our next stop was Patissier Stohrer, established in 1730, it is the oldest patisserie in Paris and was founded by King Louis XV’s pastry chef, Nicolas Stohrer. The store is elegant and has a beautiful fit out. Here we tasted their macrons and they were amazing. We then went to François Pralus a Chocolatier who also invented the famous Prauline brioche with candied pralines. Our last stop was in Rue du Nil, where we visited a chocolate shop called Plaq for a chocolate tasting. This business was started by a couple during COVID and has been very successful.

    This experience was wonderful, we saw so much, ate too much and learnt some lovely stories about Paris.
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