Europe 2024

September - November 2024
  • Danielle and Co travels
Heading off with my BFF to Scotland and then meeting Ian in France to make some wonderful memories. Read more
  • Danielle and Co travels

List of countries

  • Singapore Singapore
  • Denmark Denmark
  • France France
  • Scotland Scotland
  • Finland Finland
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Around the world, Family, Friendship, Vacation
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  • 89footprints
  • 56days
  • 1.6kphotos
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  • Our apartment building - 1st FloorOur lounge areaKitchen and diningOur roomKatie's roomThe Popes Palace - very impressive and imposingThe Cathedral which pre-dates the Popes Palace and some of the PalaceIan entering the bridgeSelfie on the bridge with a bit of the Popes Palace behindModels just hanging on the bridge between takesTwo of the remaining four archesThe bridge (what is left of it)Another impressive churchPre-dinner drinks at Mon Bar (our local) Prosecco, Pastis and ChardonnayA local piece of street art

    Heading for Avignon

    October 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We were up and packed by 9am and then went down to our local cafe for breakfast. We then headed off to the station to await our train. It was sunny but also a bit chilly. We arrived with plenty of time, got some pastry supplies for the trip and then we headed for the platform to await its arrival. It was on time, we boarded and there was sufficient room for our luggage, which was great, but there were some people sitting in our seats. I had booked 3 seats in a block of four facing one another and we found a group of German men sitting there playing cards and drinking beer and they didn’t want to move. In fact one cheeky bugger, in response to me saying they were in our seats, suggested we sit in theirs that were spaced around the carriage. My response was no, and I suggested if he wanted to sit in these seats he should have booked them, like we did! I thought there was going to be e a stand off and I would have to call the conductor but they relented and moved. I was concerned when I saw how much beer they had consumed and how much they still had to drink that there could be trouble or at the least they might be annoying, but they behaved pretty well for the 3.5 hour journey.

    We arrived in Avignon and caught a taxi to our apartment. We weren’t supposed to have access till 4pm (we were there at 3pm) but I checked the lock box and the keys were there, so we went in. The apartment was absolutely gorgeous, beautifully styled and comfortable and located in a lovely part of the old town. There were lots of restaurants and bars close by and a really nice vibe. Being in a regional centre, the hours when lunch and dinner are served are more restricted than in Paris, where many places have continuous service. So, after trying to get a late lunch, we decided to go the supermarket and get some supplies to have a late lunch or early dinner back at the apartment.

    Katie was still feeling a little tired, so Ian and I went out for a bit of a wander to check out the city. It was a very windy afternoon, the famous Mistral wind was quite strong and was expected to continue for the next day or so. We walked past the Popes Palace and also went out onto the famous Pont (Bridge), where we saw some models doing a video/photo shoot in costume. We then headed back to the apartment and we all went down to our local bar for a drink, where Ian decided to try a Pastis (anise drink that tastes like black jellybeans you have with ice and water - very French), Katie was able to get a Prosecco and I had a local white. It was nice to “people watch”, until a van driver was stopped by the local gendarmes right in front of us and traffic had to be diverted. but The cops were just chatting to the driver, and it was getting chilly, so we headed back to the apartment to have some more bread, cheese, meats and wine for dinner. Tomorrow we are doing a food tour of Avignon.
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  • First taste stop
    Delicious FougasseThe lovely square for our first stopSt. PierreAvignon marketOlive tastingOlives and pickled garlic glovesThese garlic cloves were amazingVarious tapenades to tasteThe almonds were superbNice clock tower we passed on our food tourQuiche LorraineLovely narrow streets we walked alongBeautifully decorated storesSome Roman ruins on our way to dessertDelicious tart framboiseIan about to dig into his Pear and Chocolate tartTrying to take a shot of the groupSome of the group with Zarah outside Maison BremondSpecial salt from the Camargue

    Avignon Food Tour

    October 4, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We met our guide, Zarah, outside the Palace of the Popes, to start our tour. We were a group of twelve, an American family of five, anther American couple from Maryland, a couple from Düsseldorf in Germany and the three of us. It has turned out to be a lovely day but very windy - Le Mistral was in town. What was particularly nice about this tour was that Zarah included some wonderful historical stops combined with the delicious food of the region.

    Our first stop was Chez Lizette, a lovely old bakery in a beautiful little square or “place”. To be considered a “place” there are certain criteria that need to be met: - there has to be a church nearby, there must be at least one large tree, there needs to be a water source and the shutters need to be the same colour. It is amazing how many there are that meet the criteria in Avignon. At Chez Lizette we tried their olive fougasse (a type of bread) and a caramelised onion one. Both were delicious. We also got a shot glass of muscadel, a sweet white wine.

    Our next stop was Les Halles (the market), where we visited Serge Olives. Here we tried whole garlic cloves that had been pickled in brine for a year (which have a mild and slightly sweet taste), an assortment of black and green olives, some black olive tapenade, an almond and garlic spread, and some roasted almonds with sea salt and another with paprika. The market was a hive of activity full of wonderful fresh produce and a range of other delicious foods.

    Our next stop was Le Festival ‘Comptoir Gourmonde’, our venue for lunch, which was a large slice of Quiche Lorraine, salad and a glass of local wine. The quiche was absolutely delicious.

    We then made our way to our next destination, L’epicerie de Genette, where we had dessert. There were many options: - Ian had Pear and Chocolate tart, Katie had Chocolate cake and I had Framboise tart. I believe my choice was the standout - it was absolutely amazing. We then walked down towards the river to our last stop, Maison Bremond, which was full of products from Provence. We tried lavender syrup, nougat, honey, and pistachio paste. My only regret is that I didn’t purchase any pistachio paste as it was so delicious and I haven’t seen it anywhere since.

    This was an excellent tour that combined the history and highlights of the city with food.
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  • Returned to chez Lizette for coffee and sunshine
    There are beautiful art works all over the cityLovely green facade of the marketBeautiful shopping precinctThis restaurant came highly recommendedMore art workThese figures made out of Lego are also all around townSt Jean TourMore Lego ArtLovely street artWe have seen a few of these photographs around the townBeautiful narrow streetsMore street artDanielle with Brigitte Bertoux in her workshopSome more of Brigitte's workIan clowning aroundTime for a wine after lots of walkingLovely to sip a coffee and watch the world pass by

    Avignon, a lovely city to get lost in.

    October 4, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    After the food tour, we retraced our steps back to Cafe Lizette for a coffee. The tour was excellent but it was go-go-go, so it was nice to just sit in the sunshine and sip our coffees. Katie decided to head back to the apartment while Ian and I wanted to explore some of the narrow streets we had been down with Zarah, but at a more relaxed pace.

    We wandered up and down the narrow streets; some were familiar, others new to us, with interesting architecture and stores. We found some lovely street art and a gorgeous store full of handed painted silk scarves that were stunning. Ian spotted a beautiful scarf that was to my liking. We spoke to the owner/artist Brigitte Bertoux and she showed us her work room and explained the process she uses for her work. We then stopped at our local bar to have a drink and soak up the sun and atmosphere of this wonderful town.

    We decided on another night eating in, including charcuterie, cheese and baguette with a fabulous Crémant (sparkling wine). Tomorrow we check out from the apartment and then have the day to amuse ourselves before boarding the barge.
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  • Ian enjoying the pastries and cakes on offer
    The produce is so vibrantEven the French are selling pumpkins for HalloweenThere were so many of this small sausages at the market and they all sounded deliciousSome of the fruit tarts to choose fromThese garlic cloves are deliciousThe cheese stall was amazingFresh scallops - yumHams are serious businessRoast chooks with potatoes roasting below in the juices of the chicken and some duck fatGetting to eat our slices of tartWine o'clockMount Ventaux - one of he hardest climbs in the Tour de FranceA glimpse of the bridge and looking across to Ile de la BarthelasseThe vineyards of the PopesLovely pond at the top of the gardens with white swans and other birdsPlaying pétanqueAnother view of the pondDelicious ice-cream and coffeeIan in Place de L'horloge with the Hotel de Ville behind

    Saturday pre-boarding

    October 5, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We checked out of the apartment at 10am and headed down to the river to drop off our luggage on the barge. It was an easy walk down to the Quai and we met a group that was just finishing their trip. They had only good things to report and said we were very lucky to have Micky as our tour leader. We also met Fabrice, our Captain, who was very friendly and welcoming and took care of our luggage.

    We headed back into town and on the way passed a lovely local market. When we got back to our neighbourhood we found the big market in full swing and people everywhere. We stopped at our local cafe for a coffee and a bit of people watching. Katie decided to stay and have a second coffee as Ian and I planned to return to Les Halles to check out many of the stalls within. The market was very crowded but there was a lovely vibe. We wandered around taking in the smells and colours of all the produce. We bought some more salted almonds to take on the barge trip and we bought the most beautiful slice of tart each, Ian apricot and peach for me.

    We then left the market crowd and started wandering up and down the lovely little streets of Avignon, looking for a place to sit and eat our tarts. We found a place with some seats under a tree so we settled in there to eat our little treats, which were very bloody good. We then wandered around a bit more and I bought a little ceramic bird whistle called a Piaf and a blue suede bag.

    We then met up with Katie and had lunch at a lovely cafe in Place Pie. After lunch we headed to the Rocher des Doms to walk through the gardens and get some nice views up and down the river. It was getting quite warm and so we headed back down to Place de L’horloge where we found a cafe to have some ice cream and a coffee.

    By the time we finished our ice cream it was time to make our way down to the Caprice and meet our fellow travellers.
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  • Our barge, the Caprice, home for the next eight days
    Our roomOur showerRest of the bathroomDivine goats cheese and fig saladLamb chopsGreek saladDessert

    The boarding party

    October 5, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We arrived back at the dock to board the Caprice at around 5pm. Most of the other guests were also arriving and so it was good to go below deck, unpack and become familiar with our sleeping quarters, which were very snug.

    We then headed upstairs to start meeting other members of the tour. Once everyone was up in the lounge, Micky, our tour leader, introduced herself and the team who would be supporting us for the duration. Fabrice was the Captain, Giuliano the Chef and Stefany the Steward. Then we all got to introduce ourselves. We were a mixed bunch, the youngest was 54 and the oldest 81. There were 6 Americans, 8 Canadians, 2 from New Zealand and 5 Australians. Five in the group rode manual bikes and the rest of us were on electric bikes.

    The group bonded very quickly and everyone got along really well. We had no trouble chatting and by the end of the night a bunch of us were playing cards.

    For our first meal, Giuliano spoiled us and set the bar very high. We started with a warm goats cheese salad, followed by lamb chops and finished with meringue, cream and berries.
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  • Getting ready for our first ride
    We are ready to rideMicky giving us some instructions once we had crossed the bridgeLovely shot back across the Rhône towards AvignonUs with the famous bridge and Avignon in the backgroundOut in the countrysideSome of the group (Janine, Tim, Debbie and Jean) with IanView back down to Chateauneuf-du-Papes as we make our way to the castleRuins of the castleAnother view of the ruinsHeading into Villeneuve-lès-AvignonLovely streets of Villeneuve-lès-AvignonFort Saint-AndréCrocus in bloomAnother lovely streetReturning to the barge, pretty happy with my effortDinner at Mama Corsica

    On ya bike

    October 6, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We were up early and eager to get our first ride underway. After breakfast we made up our lunch, and then we all geared up and went out onto the dock to get acquainted with our bikes, lock, paneer and helmet. It was quite a process and I thought it would be a good idea for the company to create a few small instructional videos to save some time.

    Once we had our bikes we had to adjust the seat and familiarise ourselves with the bike, gears and brakes. We finally left about 9.30am and headed out on a bike path across the river to Île De La Barthelasse (Europe’s largest river island) to get a look back across the Rhône to Avignon and also practice some of the protocols required when cycling in a group situation. It was all pretty straightforward, the biggest challenge for me was riding on the right side of the road and remembering the various hand signals, i.e. slowing, stopping, turning etc.

    After a few photo opportunities we headed off for real and the first thing we encountered was a fun run on the roads we were using. Micky had a quick chat with the officials and then we were off. It was a little unnerving as we had officials yelling at us in French, we had bystanders yelling at us and even the runners were having a crack. But we made it through without anyone - rider or runner - coming to grief.

    We then headed off to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the most famous wine region in the Southern Rhône area, characterised by large white pebbles covering the ground around the vines. Once we made it into town we locked up our bikes and made the climb up to the ruins of the ruined castle which gives the region its name and which had been bombed by the Germans in WWII.

    On the way down we met Katie at a nice little spot for a picnic lunch and then made our way back into town to seek out a coffee and use a toilet. We returned to our bikes and slowly made our way out of town, retracing our steps.

    When we were nearly back to Avignon we detoured to cross over the other branch of the Rhône to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon for our next stop. This area became a holiday destination for the dignitaries of the papal court and in the middle of the 14th century, 12 cardinals had residences there with gardens and orchards.

    On our way up to the centre of this town, I nearly had a collision with a car (riding very slowly). I managed to avoid the car but was heading towards a group of people walking on the road who didn’t get out of my way, and so the bike and I went over. I scraped my knee but was fine and continued up to the centre of town to meet up with the rest of the group. Micky attended to my knee and then a few of us headed up to Fort Saint-André for a bit of a look. Others in the group went to the Abbey and some just found a café and stayed put.

    Fort Saint-André was constructed in the 1360’s. This was done to compete with Avignon. It was built during a time of insecurity caused by the Hundred Year Wars. The fort lost its strategic role when Provence once again became part of France in 1481, and even more so once the Rhône riverbed moved 900 metres away from the mountain in about 1770. The fort was maintained by the military authorities until 1792 and it was listed as an historical monument in 1906.

    We then made our way back to the barge where a delicious afternoon tea awaited us as did a cold beer or wine. We had a free night, so we went into town with Eric, Cathy, Linda and Jane and after a few false starts secured a table at Mama Corsica, a delightful restaurant that had been recommended to me by the guy who ran Mon Bar. It was a lovely evening which allowed us to get to know one another a bit more and have a few laughs.
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  • Leaving Avignon
    Lovely reflection of the bridgeThe group is preparing to departOlive oil tastingThe owners gave us a quick tutorial in olive oil productionOlive Oil production facilitiesApproaching FournesClock tower in FournesVery friendly locals in FournèsAn engineering marvel - the Pont du GardView down to the river from the road bridgeIan and the Pont du GardPont du GardDanielle down at the rivers edge with Pont du GardThese empty snail shells were attached to the vegetationCathy, Eric, Linda and Carol - one of our many stops on the way backAnother stop when Tim came a cropperRed pepper soupSalmonIce cream

    Avignon to Aramon

    October 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This morning everyone was up bright and early as the barge would be travelling down the Rhône about 10kms to Aramon. So, after a hearty breakfast and making our lunch, we helped unload the bikes to prepare for our second ride. Our final destination was the Pont du Gard, a famous Roman aqueduct that used to provide fresh water for Nîmes.

    We had another overcast and rainy day, so everyone had rain jackets on again. We headed out into the countryside, our first stop being an Olive Oil farm, Moulin De Romanou in Théziers, for a tasting. We learnt about the process that this small producer uses and tasted three different olive oils. Interestingly, the bigger side of their business is providing the infrastructure to small individual producers and even families to make their own olive oil.

    We then headed to the lovely village of Fournes for a coffee and toilet break, and then made our way to the Pont Du Gard. Again, it was raining, so after a quick history lesson from Micky we sought refuge under an umbrella to eat our lunch. Finally, the rain stopped and we were able to go and explore the area.

    The Pont Du Gard is an incredible masterpiece of engineering and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It forms part of a Roman aqueduct that once transported water from its source at Uzès to Nîmes. What is as remarkable as the structure itself is the fact that along its 50km of underground channels, tunnels, siphons and bridges, the total height drop is no more than 17m; end-to-end across the bridge, it measures no more than 2.5cm.

    The three-tiered bridge was begun around 20 BC and was built with limestone blocks, some as heavy as 6 tonnes, without the use of mortar. The stone was lifted into position by a system of block and tackle (requiring two or more pulleys and ropes), which was operated by an enormous human treadmill. The blocks are held together by iron clamps. The aqueduct began to fall into disrepair from the 4th century onwards and ceased to operate in the 9th century. The adjacent road bridge was added in the 1700’s and the whole structure was restored under Napoleon III.

    We walked across the road bridge and also went down to the banks to explore and get a different perspective of the bridge.

    We headed back to the barge about 2pm with a 20km ride ahead of us. There were a number of falls on the return journey, five in the last 8kms of the ride. This included Tim coming off his bike on gravel right in front of me. Katie also fell a couple of times, Carol went into a car door that was opened in front of her and then she also went into a wall when Pat, her partner, tried to overtake her. Everyone was ok, if a little bruised and bleeding but, as it turned out, poor Tim (a doctor) had fractured his wrist. This only stopped him for a day though.

    For dinner we had roasted pepper soup with stracciatella, salmon with a pistachio crumb and ice cream with basil oil and passion spheres. It was absolutely delicious.
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  • Aramon to Vallabrègues

    October 8, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    The weather forecast for today was for bad weather, with lots of rain, thunder, lightning and high winds; there was even talk of a possible tornado! I decided to skip today’s ride and have an easy day, catch up on my blogging and read a bit.

    The plan for those joining today’s activities was to go into Vallabrègues for a tour with a local guide followed by an altered itinerary afterwards. A number of people decided to skip the guided tour but join the group around noon for the rest of the day, and so we were able to get a card school going in the morning, which helped pass the time - even though I said I would work on my blog, the cards called me!

    A smaller group left the boat and cycled the short distance into Vallabrègues, a medieval village located on the Rhône. A local guide gave them a tour of the village, including the main church and two old mansions which had been owned by wealthy families, including one of the Kings mistresses.

    There was a massive rain storm while they were visiting the first house. It had been flooded along time ago, with silt making its way half way up to the ceiling. Instead of removing the silt, they built a floor over it and so the ceiling was now very, very low, making it a bit cramped and stuffy inside. Following the guided visit the group rode about 6 kms to Tarascon, an old city located on the Rhône, where they had lunch and a look around the old city. They then visited the impressive Chateau de Tarascon, where the guide from the other boat treated them to an impromptu performance of monastic singing in the chapel. There was a statue of the mythical Tarasque next to the castle, a monster which apparently ate people, but was ultimately killed by a combination of holy water and locals with spears.

    They then crossed the river into Braucaire and rode out to the Troglodyte Abbey of Saint Roman. This involved a ride up hill followed by a walk up to the abbey. Here they checked out the dug-out caves and climbed to the top of the hill for great views of the countryside, including back to where the barge was moored. The group then rode back to the barge via a shorter route, crossing a dyke and a bridge on the way, for a well earned cold beer and delicious afternoon tea.

    While the group was out, Katie and I walked into Vallabrègues for a bit of a wander and a coffee. The weather had cleared and we had sunshine at last. It is a lovely place and the people are all very friendly.

    For dinner we had Pistou soup, Provençal quiche and chocolate mousse, everything was so good. Once again a number of us stayed up to play cards. We have learnt two new games - Seven and Knock.
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  • The place was pumping
    Delicious fresh produce everywhere you lookProvence herbsWe tried so many of these sauces I could hardly eat lunchWe got some delicious nougat at this stallDried fruit and garlic in abundanceThe olives were so goodEvery type of saucisson sec was availableEverything was so freshSea spongesOlive wood boards - I couldn't resistThe street he was born onNostradamus' house

    The long and winding road (Part 1)

    October 9, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today we had the biggest ride of the week, just short of 70kms, including a very steep 5km climb to the top of a mountain; more on that a little later. Micky had to tweak the route slightly because of the rising water levels on the Rhône.

    We headed off through the village of Vallabrègues, passing through Tarascon again and stopping for a quick coffee and toilet break in Saint-Étienne-du-Grès, which is located on the “La Via Domitia”. This is the ancient Roman route that passed through southern France linking Rome to Spain.

    Our first major destination was Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the birthplace of Michel de Nostradame (aka Nostradamus), and we passed through some beautiful countryside along lovely roads and laneways to get there. Saint-Rémy-de-Provence was absolutely jumping when we arrived. It was market day and every man and his dog was there. It was a wonderful market, spread across the town square and parking lot, extending out down narrow and winding lanes. You could buy just about anything there. We got some nougat, a delicious Pistou Rouge, some lovely olive wood boards, an apron, a couple of bracelets and a gorgeous scarf. The atmosphere in the town was very welcoming and we had a ball discovering and tasting delicious foods.

    We had only an hour or so at the market and it wasn’t nearly enough, plus the town itself warranted more exploring. We will definitely be back, and would probably spend a week there.
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  • Main Gate
    Danielle and VincentOne of the scenes he paintedIan imitating art - a Joseph Thoret SculptureThe grounds and buildingsThe internal garden and cloisterFirst floor where the doctors, pharmacy and head nuns had their accommodationLounge area where patients could mingleOne of the wardsDr Schweitzer's roomStraight jackets were used as therapyThe bathroom where patients received ice baths and hot bathsVincent Van Gogh's roomView from Vincent's roomThis was painted while at St-Paul-de-MausoleRear of the garden looking back to the main buildingGetting ready to head out for the big ride up!

    The long and winding road (Part 2)

    October 9, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Our next stop was only about a kilometre and a half away but it was uphill and on a busy road. We rode our bikes out of the city centre up to the Clinique St-Paul-De-Mausole. This Ancien Monastère de St-Paul-de-Mausole had been a Franciscan friary before being “nationalised” after the French Revolution and sold for cash. A pioneering figure, Dr Louis Mercurin is credited with converting it into a mental asylum in 1807. Over time the institution was re-staffed with nuns from various religious orders.

    St-Paul-de-Mausole established itself as a sanctuary of peace and this is where Vincent Van Gogh chose to be admitted as a patient between May 1889 and May 1890. Although confined to the grounds, he enjoyed a lot of freedom and was granted a workroom in addition to his small bedroom. Van Gogh’s year at St-Paul was one of the most prolific period of his artistic life, and he completed many paintings based on the asylum and surrounding gardens. Copies of these were on display close to the location they were based on.

    The collection known as Van Gogh’s Saint-Paul Asylum, Saint-Rémy includes many of his masterpieces, among them Bedroom in Arles, Starry Night over the Rhône, The Wheat Field and several portraits of fellow patients. We visited the garden, 12th-century cloister and a number of rooms within the main building, including Van Gogh’s bedroom. St-Paul still functions as a mental health hospital (in a separate building) that specialises in art therapy.
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