Kimberley 2023

May - July 2023
"The Wild Wilbers" are travelling to the Kimberley in Western Australia. Time will tell if they make it back home again.
Live location: https://maps.findmespot.com/s/S682
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  • 47footprints
  • 1countries
  • 62days
  • 398photos
  • 42videos
  • 8.8kkilometers
  • 5.6kkilometers
  • 2.0kkilometers
  • Day 34

    Home Valley Station

    June 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Crossing the Pentecost river signalled the start of our ‘proper’ off-road trip, though we haven’t gone far before stopping again, now at Home Valley Station. We have the place basically to ourselves.

    A bit of schoolwork today before the real heat sets in, then we retreated to the pool. It certainly makes for a luxury trip, rather than the ‘roughing it’ trip we planned for. That will come I’m sure…
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  • Day 35

    Ellenbrae

    June 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Another short drive today, to get to Ellenbrae station. The top selling item here is a home made scone with jam and cream, so naturally we bought 4 serves. That was lunch sorted, as these scones are huge! All served in what resembles an English country garden - surreal.

    The next day has been spent doing schoolwork, and splashing in waterholes around the property. We also ran out of LPG today, much earlier than expected. This presents a problem, in that we need to make our remaining cylinder last until Mt Barnett, where we plan to be in a few weeks. Time to lift our game and cook over the fire more often, plus wash up in cold or cooler water.

    Centine was a total pain in the bum this morning, screaming and carrying on from the safety of her high chair whilst papa and mama packed away the trailer, and couldn’t have her underfoot. When we came to collect her, we understood a little more - she was strapped in to her high chair with a massive spider! (Auntie Centine, or Tante Toos, had a similar experience in the car as a baby…)
    It was missing a few legs, so I think she may have encouraged it to move on already…

    So far the Gibb River Road has been quite forgiving on us - the Pentecost and Durack river crossings, which I had been worried about, were both barely up to our axles, and the rest of the road is rocky and corrugated, but no worse than other roads we have driven. Big difference being this road goes on a bit further i guess…
    Steep and narrow bits have even been asphalted now, hinting at what the future holds for the route. I wonder if it will be as popular when no longer the 4wd adventure it is marketed as today.
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  • Day 37

    Drysdale Station

    June 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We loved Ellenbrae, but needed to push on, so packed down the camp and headed back on the road. (After one last sneaky scone for Papa)

    There was some sort of car rally on, where people take old cars and drive like idiots through the bush under the guise of raising money. Made for a stressful drive, with lots of rocks thrown up, dust and out of control boomers…

    We eventually turned off the Gibb to head up towards Drysdale and the Mitchell Plateau, where these guys thankfully hadn’t been.

    Road was a lot rougher for corrugations, with the car ‘floating’ now and then - they aren’t consistent, so finding a speed that works is tricky. Still, we made it here just fine. I haven’t checked the eggs though, may be having an omelette in the morning…

    A sweet little water hole just down the road washed the dust and sweat of the trip off :-)
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  • Day 38

    Full stop :-(

    June 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Well… shit.

    Speaking to our trusted mechanic before coming here, there have been maybe 3 failures of the suspension springs in all the cars he services (which is in the hundreds). All were old and had done hundreds of thousands of km when they let go.

    Now he gets to say 4 failures.

    An extremely rare, and very unlikely failure, but we managed it, and of course in the most remote place possible, and on a weekend. This, despite replacing the suspension before we left with brand new parts! There’s bad luck, and then there’s this situation.

    The car is basically undrivable - we have limped to a “day use only” spot and set up camp. (We were stranded there for 3 days in the end).

    We have managed to get a message out to home for help, and if you are reading this, we have been able to get to somewhere with reception. No need to worry, though the rest of the trip is looking shaky…

    Meanwhile, we have had lots of fantastic interactions with people stopping at ‘our’ lookout. Highlights include a supply truck for APT (tour company) that leant us the use of a satellite phone, a happy couple that delivered our note for help to the rangers, a couple that had travelled all over Australia in an old Hilux and handed the kids a muesli bar and told stories of their experiences, another couple in a huge off road RV (similar to a unimog) that gave us a tub of ice cream as well as the use of their satellite phone, a pair that had a boab nut to offer, and many more that gave solidarity, offers for lifts or water or fuel.

    There were plenty of experts on how to fix it too of course, including ‘just jam a block of wood in there, you’ll be right’. He did give me a beer though, so we’re still friends :). Inevitable comparisons between the Disco and a Land Cruiser too - though the people driving this road regularly point out that every type of car fails.

    We have slowly become pretty good in picking the type of car by the noise it makes on the corrugated road (we hear them coming long before we see them) The worst are any of the tray utes with canopies, not much better are the Land Cruiser wagons (100, 200 and 300 series), the big American trucks sound pretty good, as do the medium wagons like Prados and Pajeros, and the brand new Defender 90 was quiet as a church mouse, making it look like asphalt. Pretty sure the driver was sipping a latte actually.

    I’ve had time to fix our little USB bug zapper for in the tent too - silver linings :-)

    I’ve updated this footprint as we go, so can now tell you we got out by way of a massive coordinated logistical effort between Bodhi, Cameron, Ian at Drysdale Station and the RAC. We got updates by way of letters from Ian passed to people driving up, together with the occasional phone call via satellite or starlink when possible.
    The car and trailer will get a piggy back ride on a tow truck to Kununurra, with the rest of us flying there on Max’s 5th Birthday. We will get the car back a day or two later. All up, a horrendously expensive exercise, on account of our breakdown location being a non-gazetted road. We will have covered some 7,000km on this trip, of which 140km was non-gazetted - remember the level of luck we had? :-)

    We’re not out of the woods yet (only out of the bush), with the car still broken, mechanics apparently fully booked for weeks, and a long way from home. The kids’ school recently added ‘resilience’ to their values, which I feel is being tested here.

    I considered the risks involved in this trip of course, and this situation is the ‘worst case scenario’ I came up with, short of an urgent medical emergency.
    Yet despite everything that’s happened, a reality check is sometimes needed: we are all safe, well fed and watered, recovering quickly from the stress of the ordeal, and have a pretty epic chapter to add to our diary, albeit an unwanted one! Now to find a pool and a cold beer!
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  • Day 43

    The Phoenix

    June 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It’s been an eventful few days here in Kununurra.

    We flew in, full of mixed emotion - glad to be out of our forced isolation, but devastated to have come back to ‘Kunners’ under such circumstances, and without a clear way forward. Mechanics in town need a minimum of 2 weeks, usually closer to 6 weeks to even look at it.

    The tow truck that got us out wasn’t exactly unscathed either. He broke down himself some 30km from where he picked us up, sending his fan through the radiator. He also snapped a differential and a few other driveline items.
    Then, closer to Kununurra, he managed to snap all the engine mounts, causing the engine to twist, stopping the truck permanently. The company needed three tow trucks in the end: one to get us most of the way, then one to rescue the broken truck, and a third to finish our ride to town. A nightmare!

    Whilst this was going on, we put a call out on Facebook on what to do about the car, which yielded a flurry of suggestions, including to ship a replacement part from Darwin. We did just that - a new shock was delivered overnight.

    Then, armed with some online comments, our trusty little toolkit and YouTube, Wiebe limped the car to the park across the road, and set to work. You aren’t allowed to perform maintenance in the caravan park.

    And so, from the smouldering ashes of despair rises up the mighty Disco, reborn and ready to start again! Hopefully Max’s drawings can stop being of a square car with only 1 wheel now. (He draws in profile view)

    The trailer too has arrived back, and we stayed ‘home’ again last night. Great to be back in our humble little tent. TVs and Dishwashers are overrated.

    Bit more cleaning today, and a day trip around town to restore confidence in the car, and we should be back to ‘normal’ soon. We will need to hang around in Kununurra for a day or two longer, whilst our satellite phone gets delivered, and we clearly communicate our travel plans to our support network at home :-)

    It’s a sweet little park here - a kingfisher came to say hello and there’s a beautiful view over Lake Kununurra.
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  • Day 46

    Moving again

    June 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    With the Disco back on the road again, we faced a difficult question - how do we get home?

    We could truck the car to Broome, then onward to Perth, with us flying direct from Kununurra, however this would cost around $6,000

    We could drive the long way around, following the Great Northern Highway, however that is still very very remote and frankly, a bit boring as an option, seeing we’d already travelled along that way.

    Or, we get back on the horse, and take on the Gibb a second time. We no longer have a safety net from RAC, so any further towing would be at our own cost - possibly up to $6-7k also.

    The towing price would be the same for the highway - a cheaper rate due to the asphalted road, but more kilometres means the price difference could be minimal.

    So, do we pay the definite cost of flights, or roll the dice on the Gibb…

    Well, we pulled in to Ellenbrae Station again this afternoon… :-)

    A rather uneventful day for us otherwise, thankfully. The Pentecost crossing was more of an adventure, with a car and caravan hopelessly bogged right in the middle when we arrived. Wiebe, together with other dads waded in to help (crocodile infested water remember) and they spent the next hour getting him out. There is a suspicion his trailer brakes were malfunctioning and locking on, meaning that whilst he is on the remote side now, he will either need to drive the remote Gibb River road with dodgy brakes, or cross the river again to get them fixed back in Kununurra…

    An early night tonight - someone turns one in the morning…!
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  • Day 47

    And then she was one

    June 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We love our children equally of course, however only one of them is a little girl having her first birthday in the middle of the Aussie bush today.

    Happy Birthday Centine / Teenie / Tientje!!

  • Day 48

    Mt Elizabeth Station and Warla Creek

    June 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We’re up at Mt Elizabeth station for a few nights, so we decided to check out the local creek. A sweet little spot, though outshone by some of the other attractions in the area, so not busy at all.

    The trek in was rough, and cost us a tyre - a stealthy rock in the grass slashed the side wall, and it went down pretty quickly after that.
    It meant we could try out the fancy puncture repair kit, which worked really well. (Far better than expected)
    Pumped it back up, and away we went!

    Mt Elizabeth is known for its dinners - all booked out though, with an unexpected booking in the hotel, so not for us. They had several people missing in the end, due to tyre troubles on their way to the station. Made us feel a bit better - everyone struggles on this road.

    A quiet dinner at home then, plus changing to a proper tyre that night (the patched one becomes the spare for now), then a few marshmallows by the fire and off to bed.

    We decided the other gorge at the station, which was described as ‘extreme 4wd’ to access wasn’t worth the effort and possible damage, so we will pack down in the morning, and head off to Manning Gorge instead.
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  • Day 49

    Mt Barnett

    June 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    All along the Gibb there are road markers showing the distance to ‘B’ - we finally got there today.

    After the fairly quiet trip so far, we were suddenly overwhelmed with the amount of people at the roadhouse - a queue stretching almost out the door made us realise: peak season has arrived…

    We paid our fees, filled up the diesel ($2.95 per litre!) and have set up in the camp ground.
    We were prepared for this end of the Gibb to be busier, on account of it being closer to Broome, and approaching school holidays, so the busy camp spot wasn’t a surprise. I was expecting worse actually, though be may not yet have seen it full…
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  • Day 50

    Manning Gorge and People watching

    June 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A bit unusual today, the local school offered a two-way learning opportunity down at the creek, which we took them up on.
    We went hunting for Ngalja, (Sand Frogs), which involves spotting their track, then following it to where they have burrowed in.
    You then dig to find them - only a small little thing really.

    The frog’s day isn’t getting better though, as they are considered excellent fishing bait. So, for the second half of the lesson, we headed to a good fishing spot, and threw some hand lines in. The Wilbers’s efforts were on par with expectations, however some of the school students fared much better. One caught quite a big fish, which was coming back with him to go home for dinner.

    The rest of the day was spent checking on a weird error on the car, and splashing around at the creek. A tree swing was an immediate hit with Hugo, and whilst Max did his valiant best, he was just a little too small to climb up. He found a different spot to jump in, and was also happy.

    Meanwhile, our previously undocumented study into our fellow travellers continues unabated. I have now been able to categorise them into a few key species:

    1) The Alphas, an early middle age tattooed and tanned male, with attached photogenic blonde in a bikini, and feral children (up to 3). Their clan can be found driving a dark coloured 200 series Toyota and towing an enormous dark grey caravan. Without exception, there will be a social media handle printed somewhere. #lookatme.
    These families enjoy ticking boxes of having seen things, and talking loudly enough to tell the next 4 campsites of their adventures whilst doing “The Lap”.
    They are incapable of listening, as that time is spent mentally preparing the next macho comment.

    2) The internationals, in a hired Hilux with rooftop tent looking anywhere from utterly baffled, to beaten up, depending on the length of their journey to date. Their most fascinating observation has been the Australians they met on their holiday. They keep to themselves, mostly due to language barriers (their English, whilst excellent is not up to deciphering Australian)

    3) The grey nomads, driving Isuzu utes and towing white, more modest caravans. They move slowly, and vary from scornfully watching others, to doting grandparents - more often the latter. They tend to gravitate to the shallow end of swimming pools.
    They have more interesting things to say, because they actually experienced the attraction rather than ticking the attendance box. They also listen and can engage in discussion.

    4) The tour bus attendees, are like a rare marsupial. They come out only when safe, and rarely stay long enough to be seen. Their keepers are attentive and seek to ensure no undue interaction with the public.

    5) The old schoolers, driving an ancient Land Rover or Toyota, these people eagerly recount how different the place looked 30+ years ago. Hair is usually quite wild and they have a calm sense about them. Nothing much seems to bother them, and if it does, they simply pack up and move on.

    I’m not sure which category we fall into when observed, but we haven’t met many doing the same thing (camper trailer, medium duration, visiting just the Kimberley)… I doubt the Alphas are aware we even exist.
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