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Germany 2017

May - July 2017
A 40-day adventure by Cathy Read more
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  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 15

    On and on down the Neckar

    June 12, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left Stuttgart yesterday and headed off along our next river, the Neckar. We were in for a long hot day, 79 K to Heilbronn. The bike path was very busy, everyone was out to enjoy the sun. The beer gardens along the route were especially popular but we stuck to mineral water when we stopped about 11am. Lots of vineyard up the steeper sides of the river. We found a very fine Japanese restaurant for dinner, no Swabian options around here.

    We headed out this morning through building sites and industrial areas but we soon left that behind. It was a much cooler day and despite the early clouds no rain, so a beautiful days ride. We chose to stay in Hirschhorn just because it was a good distance but it's a beautiful little town. Of course we had to climb up the tower at the top of the hill, great view.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 16

    With the tourists in Heidelberg

    June 13, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Just a short ride today, 48K, the last day on the Neckar River. We planned to spend a few hours in Heidelberg along the way. A beautiful ride to Heidelberg although a lot of the path was a bit rough. Heidelberg was a bit of a shock, it was overrun with tourist, swarming around in big groups following tour guides, with their cruise boat backpacks on. All the shady spots at coffee shops were taken. So different from the other places we've been. Anyway, we found the map shop we were looking for, then headed up to the castle on the funicular. Once we were up there it all looked much better, relaxing under the trees in the Schloss garden and looking down on the city.

    The last 20K into Mannheim was a bit mundane and Mannheim itself is not too attractive, however it's the start of our next river, the Rhine.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 17

    Adventures on the Rhein

    June 14, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Mannheim, were the Neckar joins the Rhine, was really just a place to stay before the next river. The hotel proprietor came out to chat this morning and gave us some good advice about the best way out of town. This involved following the last bit of the Neckar, then getting a small ferry across to get onto the right side of the Rhine. A very small ferry, we were the only passengers for its first trip of the day at 10am. It cost all of 50 cents each.

    We then wanted to cross to the left side, the route on that side was shorter so we were hoping the next bridge had a cycle crossing. We were in luck. All we had to do was climb up 3 flights of steps inside the bridge pylon to come out onto a bike path along side the road. Then of course it was back down the steps in the pylon on the other side. A handy sign at the top of the steps advised Radfahrer to dismount. The photo looks back to Mannheim from the top of the bridge, we had finally got past the industrial area. The main town of interest on the way today was Worms, old cathedral built in about 1100, many additions and rebuilds since then I think.

    When we weren't beside the river today we were riding through vineyards. Now we're in a small town called Nachenheim, not far from Mainz. Much nicer to be staying in a small town.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 18

    Battling Bikies in Bingen

    June 15, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We discovered when we left Nackenheim this morning that the public holiday today is a religious festival, Corpus Christi. Little altars had appeared in doorways and on front steps overnight. This one was in front of the parish office. Church bells were full on this morning as well. We headed on to Mainz where the Main River joins the Rhine. A rather shabby sign at this point describes the water way from the Main through to the Mediterranean, 2000+ kilometres. I think Jan is pondering the challenge.

    Being a public holiday meant that the bike path was crowded, the day was hot and everyone was out for some sun. There were picnickers, riders of all ages, cars trying to find parking spaces, just generally hectic. We were heading for Rudesheim, then crossing the river by ferry to Bingen. Bingen is famous for being the birthplace of Hildegard of Bingen, 11 century philosopher and poet. In Rudesheim we planned to check out some of the sites related to Hildegard before getting the ferry.

    However we discovered that a festival of motor bikes, Harley's etc. had taken over Rudesheim. The noise was deafening, there must have been hundreds of bikes there. They're apparently planning to stay for a long weekend. We opted to get the ferry asap.

    The bikies had booked out the town so we're in an AirBnB just out of Bingen, a great little spot up the hill a bit. So of course dinner tonight was at the restaurant at the local winery. The specialty of the day puzzled us a bit but the owner talked it up. It turned out to be potatoes and boiled eggs with a special sauce, yoghurt and herbs. Surprisingly good, and the white wine was very nice. Red wine was a bit bland though.

    Here's hoping for a quieter day on the river tomorrow and as it's a short day, time to find out more about Hildegard before we leave Bingen.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 19

    Hildegard and Castles: busy on the Rhine

    June 16, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We started the day with some time in the Museum in Bingen learning all about Hildegard of Bingen. She seems like quite a character, a prolific writer and significant political player. Next to the museum was a small herb garden with all the medicinal plants used in her time, and described in her books.

    Then we set off along the river again, it's this section of the river that is famous for the castles.

    There is a rail line down each side of the river with long freight trains going in both direction all day, as well, there are freight barges going up and down on the river, against the backdrop of the castles on the ridge tops. Amazing!

    There are no bridges across the river between Mainz and Koblenz, about 200k by bike, so as well as the tourists boats and barges going up and down there are also cross river ferries. It's busy out there.

    The map of the route has interesting advertising, the anti inflammatory drug Voltaren is advertised on the cover. A helpful message for tired cyclists.

    "Rest day" tomorrow, time to go and visit the local castle.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 20

    Burg Rheinfels: the castle

    June 17, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This is the largest castle on the Rhine, just a short climb from our hotel. Spectacular views of the river and a beautiful walk down. I headed across the river this afternoon on the local ferry to get to the supermarket, there isn't one on the side.Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 21

    One ladt castle: Marksburg

    June 18, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We rode onto to Boppard this morning, then crossed the river on another little ferry to visit Marksburg castle. This one was never conquered or destroyed so although it's not big it was interesting, we did the guided tour with an English speaking guide, and picked up lots of trivia. Did you know there were 25,000 castles in Germany?

    Then on to Koblenz, where the Mosel river joins the Rhine. At the confluence, a point known as Deutsches Eck, there is a huge statue of Emperor Wilhelm 1, who died in 1888. If you look carefully you will see Jan up there on the side.

    Just another note of interest: these cigarette vending machines are very common. In small villages with no shops you will always see a vending machine.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 22

    Cruising the Rhine

    June 19, 2017 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    After a 70K ride to Bonn we decided to get a boat for the last 10K to Cologne, so at least I can say I've cruised the Rhine. An earlier plan had been to ride about 40 or 50 K then get a train but it was a perfect day, tailwind all the way so we just kept going.
    We had a picnic lunch by the river, watching the boats go by.
    Lots of big industrial stuff along the last bit but finally we got our first glimpse of the Dom. Now we're in the big city!

    After the industrial start in Mannheim we weren't sure how we'd find the Rhine but we've loved it.

    Some info about freight along the river from an information board beside the path: CO2 for per ton and kilometres of freight moved: 38 for a river barge, 164 for a truck.

    Anyone trying to work out the weird German word in the last heading, actually it was a typo, meant to be last.    Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 23

    The Dom and the Chocolate Museum

    June 20, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Very hot in Cologne today so we were on the look out for cool places to visit. The burial crypt of the bishops in the Cathedral was good, and the Chocolate Museum. Not everything was working at the museum and it was too hot to buy any chocolate but it was cool.Read more

  • TravelerGermany 2017
    Day 24

    Across Germany by train

    June 21, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We left Cologne a bit after 9 this morning and after 2 changes of train we arrived safely in Berlin and navigated successfully to Pension Ingeborg, about 5K from the Hauptbahnhof. We have the purple room. It is a very small Pension on the 4th floor of an apartment building. The lift, we are told is 100 years old, but everything else is quite modern.
    We now plan to cram as much as we can into 3 days. Unfortunately our booking to visit the Bundestag has been cancelled, no reason just a cancellation email.    Read more

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