Queenstown

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It all turned out to be more difficult and painful than I had hoped. Eventually, I found a nice place to drop to one knee and ask the question. After laughing at me in shock for 30 seconds, she eventually said yes.

Our cabin at Milford was so picturesque, comfortable and beautiful I opted to keep the window above our bed open for sunrise to greet us. When light shone in around 5am, I opened the stream side curtains to enjoy the view and sound of the stream while I snoozed. It looked overcast, but dry.When I woke again proper around 7.30 it had started to rain. Thick cloud and mist had rolled in, hardly ideal for a helicopter ride. Looks like more trouble for my engagement plans. The initial objective was to propose at Franz Josef Glacier. That helicopter cancellation was brutal, especially on such a clear day. Id left the ring in the car at Ohau Stream north of Kiakoura, opted to hold off (whilst tempted) at Abel Tasman, and left the ring in the car for our ride up the cable car in Queenstown. Another potential hindrance in proposing was grinding on my nerves and the ring was getting heavier and heavier. It was starting to be as heavy a burden as Gollum experienced in Lord of the Rings. It wasn't just the hindrance, I wanted the proposal to be perfect and all my plans were either being cancelled beyond my control or the opportunities were unfolding in the wrong sequence.

We checked into reception for breakfast around 8.30, rain falling steady and visibility non existent. The bacon egg and tomato baguettes were delicious. Staff advised us the weather was predicted to clear by the afternoon (our flight was scheduled for 3pm) so everything should be alright. Much like at Franz Josef, Natalie was getting frustrated at my apparently excessive disappointment, which not being able to explain, just made me more annoyed!First up, we had a scenic cruise of the Milford Fjord booked. We sat up on the deck, undercover, with jackets and coffees and enjoyed the view. It was a great cruise (not great enough to propose), despite visibility being slightly restricted and the dreary weather. It really provided an accurate and typical viewing of the typical state/conditions of the fjord. We sailed by countless cliff faces, caves, felt the power and spray from a grand waterfall, and saw a couple of rare penguins and plenty of playful seals on the shore. Another notable feature was sailing past only one of two visible fault lines on earth; where the New Zealand and Australia plates meet.

The cruise took us right out to the Tasman Sea edge, then back around the other side of the fjord to drop us off at the floating sea observatory: Milford Deep.The whole observatory was basically a cone, suspended over (and under) the fjord water by a couple metal arms. You descend 60 stairs from the boat landing to an underwater aquarium view. Basically, the people are in the 'enclosure' here and its about hoping some fish swim by to have a look. Some attached coral beds provided extra incentive for some fish to drop in for a feed. It was actually really impressive and we saw plenty of colorful fish and other sea creatures.We were soon speeding back to the boat terminal at Milford Sound, arriving there around 1.45. We fixed ourselves a quick ham and cheese roll lunch and then dropped into the cafe/ info centre for a beer and hot chips.

By now the weather had substantially improved. All rain had stopped, fog had lifted and cloud cover was still dense but scattered. I figured Id ask the info lady here as to whether she was aware if the weather was adequate for our planned heli flight to go ahead. She called the company, who appeared to give a hesitant/unclear response that the weather wasn't quite good enough. I resisted the urge to go on a killing spree and figured wed confirm it at the helipad just down the road. The lady there kept me waiting about 10 minutes on what seemed like a personal call, then casually shrugged off that the weather wasn't ideal and generally 'they don't fly without three people'. She said an alternative flightplan to Sutherland Falls might be more feasible if they could find a third person? A bus off Asian tourists showed up and she vaguely suggested this to them, but of course no one was interested and the whole idea was put to bed. Just like that. Someone take my money and let me complete an awesome proposal dammit!

It was after 3 now, and we had 4 hours travel back to Queenstown. Instead I dragged Nat back to the waters edge at Milford fjord, saying wed get another look at it with the tide further in, it'd look better now after all. I took her along the boardwalk, then off the track stepping carefully via the tide, right out onto the edge of the water. There the skies opened up, sun beamed down, and with a full view of the fjord and great waterfall beside us, asked the question. We hardly wanted to leave thereafter and spent a while longer enjoying the moment and scenery.The drive back was pretty smooth sailing, again soaking in the impressive range around Homers tunnel. We stopped for a walk at mistletoe lake near Te Anau downs, then on towards Queenstown. Nat couldn't stop looking at her ring (which ended up costing her a speeding fine..). We again stayed at the Mantra Marina motel on the outskirts of Queenstown. The drive in was spectacular too, coincided perfectly with the sunset. There was just enough time to enjoy an amazing Fergburger in Queenstown before falling into bed exhausted.Read more