Antigua Guatemala

Antigua Guatemala was once the capital of Guatemala, but apparently it was not even the first or second, as the country capital was moved many times. The first time in 1527, when Iximché (the city of archeological site which I visited) was the capital, but the Kaqchikil rose up against the Spanish so the capital was moved and the city destroyed by the Spanish. The second time the capital city was destroyed by a volcano eruption, in 1543. So they built a new city, Santiago de los Caballeros, now called "Antigua". Antigua Guatemala was itself plagued by many earthquakes—not surprising given the active volcanoes around—which destroyed many parts of the city, and so the Capital was again moved to what is now called "Guatemala ciudad" in the 18th century, after three devastating earthquakes. Antigua Guatemala (with all its beautiful churches, or ehat remained of them, was left pretty much abandoned, as far as I understood.

Antigua Guatemala does really not deserve the title a city, and is a small but very cute town that consists entirely of old buildings and cobblestone streets. My gps said I was there, when I had expected to have to go through many extra districts to get to the centre: not so. And it really is a cute little town. And touristic. There are boutique shops selling their own "artesanal" products, lots and lots of restaurants, lots and lots of hotels, and lots and lots of coffee shops. And vegan places. And pizza, smash burger, bars, etc.

But first, my hostel experience: I booked ahead online knowing it would be tricky, and went for the high-star hostel with a nice garden. And sometimes I don't get why people give high ratings: the staff was a bunch of teens unable to make decisions, and the bunk beds were a mess to climb on to, it was hot in there during the night, and, even worse, there was no space for me to leave any of my stuff. So everything fell down during the night, I lost everything (which I am extra susceptible to), and I actually decided in the middle of the night to "fuck this" and blew up my sleeping mat and slept outside on the courtyard grass. The next day they did offer a lower bed, but I was just annoyed, tired, so I insisted on wanting to leave and look for something else. Luckily, they did: that is, after having woken up (at past 9 am) the reception guy, insisting that he calls his manager, insisting again, etc etc. I ended up pitching my tent in the garden of another hostel, which saved me money and is just a safe option.

Ok, Antigua: it is super touristic, and expats and locals alike want to open their restaurant, bar or coffee spot to exploit touristic interest, and you have to know where to go. I went to a fancy vegan place and was very unimpressed by the food, for example. But there is excellent (local and foreign) food to be found, excellent coffee, and even excellent mezcal and craft beer. Yeah, I spent too much money. But of course the reason of it being having become a popular tourist destination is the old city, and viewing the old ruins of the destroyed cathedral, destroyed convent, and the like is... I don't know, actually. For one, I found the convent deeply unimpressive, despite what it might once have been, and the cathedral also maybe not worth the entry price, though it was interesting to see. I think it is now popular because it gives what western people want and enjoy, just a little bit different and with enough of a local influence to make it special. But, sorry for the tourists, it is not the actual local culture, just a touristic extraction. (But hey, I cherish some of the products of tourism as much as anyone.)

However, next to the ruins of the cathedral is the Palacio de los Capitanes, housing the National Museum of Guatemalan Art, and this was for me really worth the visit. It traces (in a weird non-chronological order!) Guatemalan art and artists, and there are really nice artworks on display there. And it was quiet and free—I do not understand why tourists mostly don't go there, but better for me.

Well, actually I do know: everyone seems to be there to hike the volcanoes, and see the mythical (life-changing?) Volcano peaks and constant eruptions of Fuego up-close. And the way Antigua is situated between many volcanoes is really special and a beautiful sight. I am perfectly happy not having ckimved the volcanoes though, crazy as that might sound to sone of the people I have talked to.

The next day I spontaneously took part in a chocolate or cacao workshop which was very well done and fascinating. I already knew that cacao beans have a special place in Mayan religion, but the background of this, how cacao was used, how it is processed, was really interesting and enjoyable to learn about. And delicious.Read more