Northern Night Lights

In Lithuania, it gets dark around 3pm in winter. And like many northern European cities, Vilnius really ramps up the hygge, or winter coziness, with its lights, decorations, and food.

We had read that Lithuania, much like Estonia, is experiencing a local food revolution. Rather than heavy, bland Russian foods that have been a staple since the Russian occupations, Lithuania is bringing back its culinary traditions, including game and "forest foods." Last night we had reservations at one of Vilnius's most well-known of these restaurants, LOKYS, in the old Jewish quarter. It's located in a 15th-century Gothic cellar, and specializes in game meats.

I ordered the duck confit with potatoes (because everything has potatoes in Lithuania, I am just saying) and Matt ordered boar with cheese croquettes. I wouldn't say that Lithuanian food is light, but it is delicious and warming on a winter night. What I particularly loved was the wine list: "hot mulled wine" was not an after-dinner treat, but rather a serving option of their house wine! This, in a nutshell, is how cold winter can be in Lithuania.

After dinner, we strolled the Christmas market, which is far lovelier in the dark than in the daytime. And unlike our Barcelona Christmas market, Vilnius's market sold hot mulled wine and gingerbread...though Santa AND Christmas music were strangely isolated on a different side of the Cathedral. I did not get to see me sum Santa. Fail!

We walked through the tiny Old Town to view the buildings at night- in the dark with its Christmas lighting, Vilnius feels like a completely different city. We visited Vilnius's famous Gate of Dawn and Basilian Monastery Gate, which are gorgeous at night. The Gate of Dawn is the only remaining medieval gate to the Old Town, and one of the symbols of Vilnius. It's also a major site of pilgrimage for Lithuanians, who visit to view the icon of Mary inside the gate's upstairs chapel. We were quite surprised to note a Camino de Santiago shell on the gate, and discovered via Google that we were standing on the "Camino Lituano." A bit more research revealed that this Camino was created in 2016 by Camino enthusiasts in Lithuania...and has no connection whatsoever with the Camino de Santiago. It's a 500 kilometer walk through Lithuania, with no endpoint at the Cathedral of Santiago. People! One does not simply co-opt the Camino de Santiago. I am just saying. That is anarchy.

The following day was our final morning in Lithuania. We lingered at the breakfast buffet at our hotel, and took a short walk in the Old Town as a final goodbye before our afternoon flight. Given the chill and drizzly rain, we wisely opted to leave for the airport early and enjoy Lithuanian sparkling wine in the departure lounge. Happy New Year!Läs mer