Day 7 • Marsalforn Bay and the Salt Pans

‘Salt is born of the purest parents: the sun and the sea.’ - Pythagoras

We saw this wonderful quote today as we arrived at the salt pans of Xwejni. After the weather of the last few days, we woke this morning to clear blue skies and barely a breath of wind, so we didn’t waste any time starting the day. First, an excellent breakfast provided by Giovanna, then we took a local bus from Victoria to Marsalforn and walked along the coast to the Salt Pans. What a magical place.

At the small shop set in the cliff opposite the salt pans, we briefly met owners Manuel and Rosa, whose family is one of three salt farmers of Xwejni. They explained that they are in maintenance mode now until next month when harvesting will begin. From what we’ve read, salt farming is hard work but certainly a labour of love for Rosa and Manuel. How’s this for a story:

‘The Cini family’s ancestors have worked the Xwejni Salt Pans since the 1860s. Josephine Xuereb is a 5th generation salt-farmer continuing the family tradition of her mother Rosa’s family. Her family are synonymous with salt. In Gozo, the process of making artisan salt through evaporation goes back to Phoenician and Roman times. During the British occupation of Gozo salt-harvesting was revived when the Government offered concessions for local people to work them and share-own them.

Josephine says: “My father Manuel is known all over the world as ‘Leli Tal-Melh’ which means Manuel The Salt Man. He’s been making salt since 1969, when he married my mother Rosa and they revived her family’s business. Salt harvesting then was dying out because it is physically very hard, back-breaking work. But after my mother met my father, she taught him the trade – they fell in love, they fell in love with the salt pans and the rest is history. Today, 50 years later they are both still harvesting salt. The salt preserved their love and preserved the local trade as well.”

Xwejni’s Salt Pans chequerboard pattern and shimmering mirrored reflective pools are always a dynamic sight to behold. Spanning several kilometres across Gozo’s northern coast. Today they are divided between 3 salt farmers. The intricate formation of shallow square pools and larger feeder pools, which Josephine compares to delicate ‘lacework’ use 3 raw natural ingredients: the sun, sea and wind to create this essential mineral for life.’

More here.

https://www.visitgozo.com/blog/the-saltpans-of-…

What a treat. 😍

PS. We visited some other cool places today but the Salt Pans were definitely the highlight so will leave it at that for today. 😎Read more