• Tui Snider
  • Tui Snider

February 2023

Sailing to Africa, rounding the cape, & crossing the Atlantic! Read more
  • Feeding a Wild Lemur!

    February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

    We saw many different kinds of lemurs in Madagascar, but whatever kind is pictured here, are may absolute favorites!

    There was no need to squint at them from afar, because these furry fellows hopped through the branches and shimmied right down to eye level.

    Our guide had brought some little bananas, which are a favorite treat for lemurs.

    When I held out a piece, one of them immediately hopped over. He delicately grasped my hand and raised it to his mouth so he could take it. (If you look closely, you can see the moment he let go of my hand in one of the photos.)

    The lemur was cute and his little hand so gentle that he absolutely stole my heart!

    One of our friends had an enchanting lemur encounter, too: After playing peekaboo with one of these fuzzy primates, the creature offered the human a piece of fruit, as if to say, “Thank you, friend!”
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  • Holy Tree in Nosy Be

    February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

    If you remember the plot to the first “Avatar” movie, then certain aspects of the story behind this tremendous tree may sound familiar! Read on:

    In 1836, the Queen of the Sakalava tribe planted what has become an enormous banyan tree.

    Every year, the current queen conducts a ritual here during which a zebu is sacrificed in exchange for blessings to the Sakalava people.

    According to our guide, Philippe, his people come to this tree all throughout the year instead of going to a church. This tree is their holy space.

    In fact, the Latin name for “banyan tree” is “ficus religiosa” since the Buddha attained enlightenment while sitting beneath one. (Many banyan trees around the world are treated as holy spaces. Makes sense to me!)

    “My people believe this tree contains the souls of all our ancestors, and just as we cannot tell where the roots begin and end, so are our souls connected in the afterlife. We come here to feel that connection. Here we can communicate with our ancestors.”

    Philippe told us that as they sing and dance at the tree, “People can have a trance. Trance is very important to us.”

    People go barefoot during rituals at this sacred tree and Philippe showed us how the men wear a colorful wrap around their legs.

    In addition to his tribe, Philippe said that people journey from all over the world to meditate and pray beneath this tree. I certainly enjoyed a few quiet moments beneath its tremendous branches.

    “Many people tell me they feel an energy from this tree,” Philippe told us. “We believe it is our ancestors. When we come here to ask them for help, we leave offerings of coins, rum, honey, and red or white cloth.”

    “No zebu?” Larry asked.

    “Of course, zebu!” Philippe laughed, “But only for big requests, such as a marriage or funerals. We come here to make offerings, and we must drink a lot of rum to please our ancestors. We don’t like rum, but we must drink it for them.”

    I noticed that anytime the subject of rum came up, Philippe would deny liking it, but say his people had to drink it to appease their ancestors.

    There are many elaborate taboos in Madagascar, and for Philippe’s tribe, it may be taboo to say that you like drinking rum, but I’ll write about the complex “fady” a.k.a. “taboo” system in another post.
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  • Hellville Market

    February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

    According to Philippe, the difference between a town and a village in Madagascar is that a town has electricity and a village does not.

    We ended our tour of Nosy Be with a visit to the the town of Hellville.

    I noticed charcoal for sale in various places. Philippe says most people rely on it to cook food. “Our villages have no TV, of course, so that’s why we have so many children,” Philippe joked.

    “Before, every family in Madagascar wanted 14 children. That was the wish. But now, our government tells us that’s too many. So now we try to only have a few, maybe five or six. Not so many as before.”

    Philippe went on to explain that, “We have many problems here, but religion is not one of them.”

    Philippe told us that since the 18 tribes of Madagascar already have such a wide variety of different beliefs, “So no one cares if you have a different religion. People can worship what they like. We even have ‘Muslics’ here. These are people who observe Ramadan, celebrate Christmas, and whatever else they want.”

    As we contemplated his words, he added, “Everything’s ok here, you know? It’s Hakuna Matata, baby!”

    It was an entertaining ride to the Hellville Market. The spice section of the market smelled lovely. Larry and I bought some vanilla from the woman in the first photo.

    Madagascar is also known for its pepper corns. I love pepper, but wasn’t sure why they put them in old plastic water bottles.

    As I walked over to a basket of muddy crabs, I thought I saw a cat zip by out of my peripheral vision. I even felt a little whisper of air. According to Larry, however, it was a great big rat!
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  • Voice of the Sea

    February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

    Larry and I were chosen to take part in the ship’s Voice of the Sea competition. Larry auditioned with Elton John’s “Candle in the Wind,” while I sang Sarah Brightman’s “Think of Me.”

    For the show, Larry performed “My Way,” since it’s such a crowd pleaser and he does it well.

    The ships had a very small list of songs to choose from and I couldn’t find anything for a soprano in the English choices. On a whim, I chose the German song, “99 Luftballons.”

    I could have sung it in English, but I’ve met a lot of nice Germans on the ship, and no one else was singing a tune in their language.

    I figured German people might get a kick out of it, and it would be a fun challenge, to boot. My German friend, Tom, helped me with pronunciation.

    I learned a lot!

    Our server, Edgar, kept the wine flowing during dinner on the night of the show and even sent us out the door with a couple glasses to go!

    We weren’t able to watch the show, alas, because they kept us backstage where we could only see it on a black and white monitor.

    Singing with a live band is so much fun! Larry and I had a great time. We even made it to the final 3.

    In the end, a woman from Holland won. She sang Cohen’s “Hallelujah.” It was well deserved. Her voice is beautiful.

    I really hope they will offer regular karaoke on the ship. This was fun, but I much prefer singing when it’s not a competition. It’s a wonderful way to meet fellow music lovers.
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  • Blessings from the Chief

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    The downpour continued as our boat pulled ashore so Lachaka suggested wearing life jackets in lieu or raincoats.

    A small crowd of locals met us as we disembarked. If they thought we looked silly in our life jackets, I couldn’t tell. Some were hawking goods, but most seemed to be there out of curiosity.

    Before we could interact, Lachaka directed us to a forested path that offered shelter from the rain. Between that and the life jacket, I was pretty cozy. It was so hot and humid that none of us felt chilled.

    After carefully wandering up a slick hill, we were ushered into a hut. (It reminded me a lot of our backyard tiki hut, actually.)

    Inside, two men sat at a table. Lachaka explained that the man in the hat was the village chief and part of his job was greeting all visitors.

    The chief spoke to us in Malagasy and I did not understand a word. According to Lachaka’s interpretation, however, not only did he welcome us to his village and extend blessings to us and our families back home, but he even offered blessings to our deceased ancestors, as well.

    After these words, the chief blessed us by dipping a tree branch in water and flicking water droplets on us.

    Lachaka told us that the hat on the table was there in case we wanted to leave a tip, and many of us did so.

    As I mentioned before, Madagascar has 18 different ethnic groups. Lachaka and the members of this village are part of the Betsimisaraka people.

    Betsimisaraka means “the many inseparables,” and mainly live on the eastern side of Madagascar.

    As coastal peoples, they have interacted with Europeans for a long time, and integrated many things into their own culture.

    As we wandered the village, we saw people pounding rice (to de hull it), and cooking meals over small charcoal fires.

    I don’t usually carry any money ashore, but a little voice told me to take a bunch of ones this morning. I’m glad I did, because so many people in the village had hats out for tips.

    I noticed a well for the village that was donated by Muslims and it reminded me of our other guide’s “Hakuna Matata” remark about how the people of Madagascar are comfortable cherry-picking from any religion that appeals to them.

    Our visit ended with a fruit buffet and live song and dance. Everything was delicious, but my favorites were the mango and the little bananas.
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  • Breadfuit

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    You may not think you know what breadfruit looks like, but if you’ve ever seen a Hawaiian shirt, you probably recognize the leaf.

    Breadfruit leaves are a popular design motif throughout the tropics. But why?

    The tree is native to the tropics, and its fruit is more savory than sweet. So like potatoes and rice, it can provide a hearty staple.

    Not only did the native peoples of Oceania spread breadfruit across the region, but during colonial times, breadfruit was used to feed slaves.

    Locals often tell me how tasty it is, but I’ve yet to eat any. I saw breadfruit chips (like potato chips) for sale in the Seychelles, but I didn’t have any money on me at the time. One of these days!
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  • Village House

    February 13, 2023, Indian Ocean

    As we wandered along the main path through the village, Lachaka waved our group to one side.

    “Come this way,” he said, steering us down a narrow walkway.

    “Where are we going?” people asked.

    “A woman wishes to show you her house,” he explained.

    Sure enough, a woman stood in front of a small hut. As we approached, she smiled and beckoned for us to come closer.

    I looked for a place to leave a tip, but Lachaka said, “No, no. She doesn’t want money. She only wants you to see her house.”

    Most people declined, but to me it felt rude not to take up her offer.

    A French couple stepped forward with me, and we walked inside her home. The front porch was a tire filled with sand, and playing cards were strewn about the entrance. (Everything else was so tidy that I wonder if the cards were there on purpose, but I don’t really know.)

    The interior of her home was sparse but very tidy. Bundles of flowers hung from the walls creating a lovely aroma as well as cheery decoration.

    The woman did not speak English, and I don’t know any Malagasy, but I did my best to convey my gratitude with a smile.
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  • Flower Children

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Our guide on the west side of Madagascar mentioned that, “In your movies, the men give their women flowers for the day of love, but we would never do that here.”

    “Why not?” a Swiss woman asked. “Flowers are romantic.”

    “Maybe to you,” Philippe laughed, “but not to my people. Here, we only give flowers at funerals. If I bring flowers to my wife, she will think I wish her to die!”

    Meanwhile, on the east side of Madagascar, villagers displayed young children under woven bowers decorated with colorful blossoms. Each child had a hat nearby to collect tips.

    I tossed dollars in as many hats as possible as Lachaka whisked us through the village.
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  • Chameleons in Toamasina

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Some of the village kids in Madagascar make money by letting tourists like me pose with chameleons.

    Another group of kids had some cute little animals in a bucket with a hat nearby for tips. Do you know what type of animal they are? I wasn’t able to find out.

    Chickens wandered all over the village and I was surprised by how long their legs are.
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  • Pangalanes Canal

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Today we docked in Madagascar’s main seaport, Toamasina, and explored the area nearby.

    “Toamasina” means “it’s salty” and there’s a funny story behind the name. Many years ago, a man who had grown up in the highlands of Madagascar visited.

    He was thirsty after his long voyage, so he took a big swig of seawater only to exclaim, “It’s salty!” Somehow the name stuck.

    Our guide for the day was a fellow named Lachaka, which means “destiny” in Malagasy.
    The first part of our tour in Toamasina was a tour down the Pangalanes Canal.

    While a man steered the boat from the stern, a third guy stood on the bow keeping an eye out for any debris that might get tangled in our outboard engine along the way. (Even so, the boat broke down a couple of times during our trip.)

    Lachaka explained that the section of the canal we were on was man made during the colonial period and that, “Many, many workers died while digging here. Conditions were very bad, like slavery.” (This is a familiar refrain for canals of the world, alas.)

    These days, locals rely on the canal for fishing and trade. For many, this waterway is their main avenue for travel.

    Lachaka taught us how to say “hello” in Malagasy. People were quick to wave and return our greetings as we floated by.

    By the way, even though people do laundry in the canal, the women holding the sheet in these photos are using it to fish.

    Other things that piqued my interest included boats with sails made from rice bags, as well as the voluptuous carving on the prow of a ship.

    And while we’d been warned to keep an eye out for crocs, I did not expect to see a pink one today!
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  • Toamasina Market

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    Armed soldiers stood at many intersections in Toamasina, a sight that always makes me uneasy.

    The local market was big and bustling. I noticed men with t shirts labeling them as security patrolling the perimeter outside.

    When a young girl approached us with a basket of green oranges, one of the guards chased her off, while brandishing his billy club. I hadn’t planned to buy any, but I felt sorry for her nonetheless.
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  • Toamasina Dancers

    February 13, 2023 in Madagascar

    The people of Toamasina have interacted with sailers for centuries and it was easy to see and hear the European influence in their local culture.

    Once again, our ship was met with lively dancers. We also saw dancers during our fruit buffet, and while walking through the local village.

    It was a hot and humid day full of bright colors and new to me cultures.
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  • Rainy Day on Reunion Island

    February 14, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We had a mellow day on Reunion Island. The rain made it too foggy to justify a taxi tour, so we took a shuttle into Port Louis and wandered around, instead.

    We’d heard that due to the French influence here that the bakeries were quite good, but hardly any were open today.

    There was a place called “O’Tacos” that claimed to be home of “the original French taco.”

    Say what?

    At that point, however, I was holding out for a chocolate croissant, but as mentioned before, most places were closed.

    During our stroll we passed a colorful Hindu temple, but it was also closed today.

    I did buy a pair of beach sandals to replace the ones that fell apart on the Seychelles, as well as a colorful dress that was locally made.

    As I said, it was a very mellow day!
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  • Mauritius

    February 15, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We leisurely taxi tour in Mauritius. The town was pretty dingy, but we enjoyed the local market.

    Larry bartered long and hard with the man you see in the photo. They were having a good time, though, and other shopkeepers were chuckling over the intense negotiation, as well.

    I got a kick out of the “hipster Shiva” t shirt. There’s quite a mix of cultures here, since after slavery was abolished in the 1800s, many folks came from India to work the sugar cane fields. (Of course, even though they were not technically slaves, the conditions weren’t exactly great, either.)

    The market smelled of curry and fresh fruit. Dodo birds were a common design motif here, since this is where they once thrived.

    In fact, as part of Larry’s wheeling and dealing, the shopkeeper gave us some Mauritian currency featuring a dodo bird.

    After the market, our cabbie took us to a beach that locals enjoy. We had it all to ourselves because it was a weekday.
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  • Crime in Durban

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Of all the places we have visited in our many travels, Durban has the dubious distinction of being the place where the most people we know were mugged!

    A trio of friends went for a stroll around 10 a.m. They didn’t get far before a couple of men ran up and attempted to steal one guy’s fanny pack.

    As he struggled with his assailants, some locals came up and helped chase the attackers off.

    None of the victims were walking alone, at night, or in areas that seemed “dodgy.” One attack occurred within sight of the ship, very close to the dock.

    No one was hurt, at least, although one criminal put his hands around a woman’s neck as if to choke her. Scary!

    Meanwhile at the beach, a woman had her cellphone snatched from her hands and she relaxed in the sun.

    These are just a few of the muggings we heard about. All of them were in broad daylight!

    We took the ship’s tour today, and they only let us off the bus once. Along the way, we passed sign after sign for “armed response” security companies.

    Barbed wire and electric fences were on the perimeter of every apartment and house. Many had guards sitting at the entrance.

    As we drove through the downtown, our guide said, “This is a bad part of town. Don’t go walking here.”

    After all the stories I heard today, I certainly believe her!
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  • A Literal Tidal Pool

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    When I hear the phrase “tidal pool,” I think of a natural formation at low tide. Here in South Africa, it means a literal swimming pool created at the seaside.

    In addition to shark nets, this walled off section of ocean creates a safer environment for swimmers by lessening the chance of them being pulled to sea by the powerful riptides here.

    Despite these dangers, our guide tells us that an international surfing competition takes place here every year.

    I love the sea, and found a peaceful looking spot to wade. As I walked down the steps, however, a big wave came and drenched me!

    Even though I got utterly soaked, it was so hot out that it was actually quite refreshing and I was nearly dry by the time we returned to the ship.
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  • Rough Seas & Broken Bones

    February 19, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Seas were rough on the way from Durban to Elizabethtown (or Gqerbah, as it seems to be called on the maps!)

    Simply walking around the ship was a challenge as it pitched and rolled, but Larry and I didn’t mind, nor do we get seasick as some folks do.

    For some reason, our dock wasn’t ready when we arrived in Elizabethtown, so they sent us to a different dock.

    Three ambulances met the ship to cart off four injured people. One was a member of the kitchen staff who broke his arm during the rocky transit.

    Two more passengers were injured by the rocky ship, but the fourth had a medical emergency of some other kind.

    Unfortunately, our photo safari was cancelled because the tour buses were at the dock where we were originally supposed to be.

    We opted to stay on the ship today. We’ve heard so many tales of crimes from other passengers in South Africa, that it’s less than inviting to go for a stroll. We might get more of an adventure than we bargained for!

    Instead, we had a relaxing day on the ship, swimming and playing Scrabble. While we play Scrabble, I edit photos and write blog posts.

    The shore excursion folks have shifted us to a different game reserve for tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes.

    p.s. The photo here is a Chantilly swan dessert from last night’s dinner. Yum!
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  • Chaise Lounge Mystery

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    What’s so great about chaise lounges? Can someone please explain?

    I find them uncomfortable, yet judging by the myriad folks I see lounging in them every day, I’m in the minority.

    Sure, I enjoy kicking back with a book, but the angle that chaise lounges are tipped is really uncomfortable.

    Maybe it’s because, for whatever reason, I don’t enjoy slouching. As a teen, I was teased for sitting up straight, and I even attempted to cultivate a slouch. It didn’t last.

    Also, as you can probably guess by the shade of my skin, I’m not someone who enjoys laying in the sun to cultivate a tan. Chaise lounges seem perfect for that.

    So tell me. Am I missing the joys of a chaise lounge? Or what???
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  • An Elegant Snack

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Partway through our game drive, Nick stopped at a pretty overlook where we enjoyed a snack of dried mango, nuts, and some chilled white wine. I don’t usually drink white wine, but this was very refreshing.Read more

  • The Big 5

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Our excursion to Sibuya Game Reserve got off to a dubious start. Not only did our bus smell so strongly of urine that it made my eyes water, but instead of a guide, we were mistakenly given a Spanish translator and she was not happy about this mistake.

    So rather than hear info about South Africa, we spent an hour and a half listening to her loudly complain about this error on her cell phone.

    At least it gave me a chance to practice my Spanish comprehension. I now know all about her and her two kids. (They’re doing fine, in case you wondered.)

    It was a pretty drive, although I was surprised how deserted the roads were. We only saw, maybe, six other vehicles during our hour and a half drive.

    Much to my surprise, the terrain reminded me a lot of Texas as we passed through rolling hills, windmills, and ranchers in cowboy hats driving herds of cattle.

    Once we reached Sibuya Game Reserve, everything improved greatly. Our “photo safari” driver, Nick, was friendly and knowledgeable about all aspects of local flora and fauna.

    He didn’t just point out mammals, but also birds, bird calls, insects, reptiles, and wildflowers along the way. I had fun checking off as many species as I could on the handy list they gave us.

    We also managed to see four of the “Big 5” on our game drive: Elephants, Cape Buffalo, Rhinos, and Lions.

    I was amazed at the terrain those land rovers could handle. At times the roads were so steep and bumpy that I was surprised we didn’t tip over!

    I write more about our game drive in some other posts, but just so you know, we took a different bus on the drive back to the ship!
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  • Lions will be lions!

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    They keep the lions in a separate part of the game reserve at Sibuya. Not only does it have an electric fence, but it has an electrified area on the ground.

    As we entered the lion section, Nick told us to speak quietly and move slowly. Quick movements might attract unwanted attention.

    “They’re cats, after all,” Nick warned. “And cats can be tempted to chase things that move quickly.”

    Just like house cats, lions sleep most of the day. They are hard to see in the tall grass, so none of us could really get a good photo.

    “Want to hear a scary story?” Nick asked.

    Of course we said ‘yes,’ so he told us about some poachers who came to a sorry end. They were after the game reserve’s rhinos, but ended up in the lion section by mistake.

    It was night, so the lions were in hunting mode. This time, however, instead of going after wildebeest or impala, they made a meal out of the trio of poachers.

    The next day when one of Nick’s coworkers drove up, he found the lions playing with human heads.

    Beyond that, all that was left of the poachers were their guns, and their shoes!
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  • Impala for Lunch

    February 22, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    After a nearly four hour game drive, we enjoyed a splendid lunch back at Sibuya Game Reserve.

    Barbecued impala was featured on the menu along with a lovely pumpkin and garbanzo bean salad and fresh baked bread.

    The chef was excited when he heard Larry and I are from Texas. “Aha!” he exclaimed. “The land of barbecue! Let me know what you think.”

    I told him it was the best impala I’d ever had, while Larry made some joke about how he’d once had an Impala, but then he got a Belair. (Luckily, the man got it. It took me a minute!)

    The whole meal was a treat. We washed it all down with a glass of Sibuya’s own red wine and some rooibos tea. (I drink rooibos all the time at home, but it only grows in South Africa, so I was excited to have some here.)
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  • “Wrongway” Crescent Moon

    February 22, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    The sky was beautiful tonight! Venus, the moon, and Jupiter were all lined up and so bright that I was able to take photos of them.
    Since the ship was moving, it made it a bit of challenge.

    What really threw me for a loop was the crescent moon! In the northern hemisphere, where I’ve spent most of my days, a waxing moon is larger on the right.

    Not so in the southern hemisphere. The moon you see here is a waxing crescent, but the sliver we can see is on the left side!

    I thought this was so cool that I blew kisses to the moon.
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  • Missing Friend!

    February 23, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    We got back to the ship shortly before it was time to leave. As we showered and changed clothes, we heard an announcement over the ship’s loudspeakers.

    Long story short: They were trying to find our friend, Michael!

    Michael is a gregarious Australian guy who sits with us at dinner. We met him several years ago on a different ship.

    This time around, however, it quickly became apparent to us that Michael’s cognition is on the decline.

    He asks the same questions several times each meal (Where will we be tomorrow? Is there a show tonight?) and hardly ever takes the diabetes medicine that he needs.

    Larry’s dad had dementia and lived with us for three years, so we’ve had experience.

    Larry changes the time on Michael’s phone and watch whenever we enter new time zones, and helps him order food at dinner. I gave him an asthma inhaler when he needed one.

    We’ve been trying to keep an eye on Michael, but at this stage he really needs a travel companion. We can only do so much.

    I gave Michael’s phone numbers to the English liasson and the security team. Stephanie was able to message him on WhatsApp, and could see that the messages were reaching his phone, but not being read.

    As we worried about our friend, we heard more stories of people being mugged here in South Africa.

    We did not sleep well last night!

    This morning, however, we were informed that Michael has been found and will return to the ship in Cape Town.

    Beyond that, we don’t know what caused him to miss the ship or how he passed his time last night.

    It’s a relief, but many questions remain!

    p.s. As for the photo, it’s from tonight’s show which was the ship’s version of “Priscilla: Queen of the Desert.”
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  • Table Mountain

    February 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Everywhere you go in Cape Town, Table Mountain looms in the distance.

    Some mornings, a cloud layer forms over the flat looking crest of Table Mountain. According to one legend, this is due to the devil and a mountain man having a pipe smoking contest.

    At dusk, Table Mountain makes her presence known with a sharp silhouette standing guard over the city.

    Next time I’m here, I’d like to take the cable car up to the peak of Table Mountain. Some of our friends did so and said the view was incredible.
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