Theth National Park

I don't know what Albanians are known for, but it's certainly not their driving skills. The roads to Theth National Park is a narrow strip of pavement, from which oncoming traffic has to swerve onto the adjacent strips of gravel to avoid a collision. Most drivers don't.

Accordingly, I am glad to reach today's destination, a large flat campsite right next to the river. I've been told it's challenging to reach and indeed, there are some deep potholes in the steep dirt road. Probably the most extreme I've ever had with my Volvo – quite species-appropriate for the SUV that longs to see more than paved roads.

The spot is stunning, I spend the afternoon bathing in the cold river, playing guitar and reading, before something quite unexpected comes wobbling down the path: an EXCAP expedition truck, the same model I own! I'm impressed that they made it down here – the potholes were no challenge for them, but an extremely narrow bridge. Every vehicle has its advantages and weak points.

The family sets up camp next to me and we spend an evening by the campfire, sharing food, drink, stories and even electricity before once more drifting to sleep to the sound of water and crickets. This is what I live for!

In the morning, my new acquaintances pack up – they are already on the way back home – while I settle in for a rest day. Lots of coffee, more bathing, more guitar, more reading and a late-afternoon hike...Read more