The Blue Eye

At such a serene spot, a part of me wants to indulge by sleeping in and starting the day very slowly. On the other hand, there's the part of me that wants the famous Blue Eye for myself, alone, without any other people. I don't know *how* early you need to go, so I go *early*.

Starting the hike right from my campsite in the riverbed, I pass a restaurant, where the terrace is just being set up for breakfast. Only locals working, no tourists. Yet. Another Albanian on the trail, later I'll see him at the little coffee bar close to the Blue Eye. Yes, they set up concession stands right next to their natural wonders. It's probable we'd see the same in the USA if the National Park Service hadn't been created to protect these places a century ago.

There's a campground (tents only) right next to the Blue Eye. I thought a few campers might be earlier than me, but not a single tent is pitched. I'm alone. And wow! I can't remember ever having seen water this clear and blue! This is breathtaking and ... it's not the Blue Eye! After taking a selfie, I realize there's a sign nearby, pointing further up the trail. Oops!

Three minutes later, I see it. Oh, okay! Yeah, this really is a blue eye. Almost perfectly round, even more blue, and ice cold. I'll wager the guess that the glacier water is about 5°C – perfect for a morning ice bath. And with no one around, I strip naked and walk right in. Ooh, it's been a while, and I've missed the cold. I think of Wim Hof teaching us to train our resilience in his crazy voice with the Dutch accent:

"Go to the cold before the cold comes to you." The cold being vehicle papers forgotten at home, Italian hooligans and a host of other challenges yet to come...

As I make my way back, the coffee shop is being opened and, almost at the trailhead, I meet the first hikers on their way up. It was a good choice, getting up early. The morning coffee in the riverbed tastes even better after such a sublime start to the day.もっと詳しく