Geothermal Wonderland

Mathieu, the globetrotter from Québec, liked the thermal baths at Lengarica Canyon so much that he stayed there for two weeks. Politely said, I wasn’t that impressed. The canyon walk all the way to the end, yes, I would have done that. But the baths … meh!

Subsequently, I was a bit sceptical when Mathieu told me not to miss out on another set of natural springs on the Greek-Albanian border. The Sarandopor Thermal Springs had been on my radar, but after Benjë, my excitement is on low burner. With the detour absolutely negligible, I decide to have a look despite my doubts.

The first half of the three-kilometer access road is paved before it becomes an increasingly adventurous dirt path, crossing progressively deep water as I approach the springs. And there are lots of springs here!

The tiny basin inhabited by a few frogs is accessible without water passages. To reach the following large pool, I need to cross three shallow streams. Following the Sarantapor River, I pass numerous springs, including a bright blue pool, before reaching the most impressive feature of all.

Another large pool is sourced by water emerging from an opening in the rock, large enough to crawl through. And I crawl. Enter the small cave, going deeper to find the source of the water. And reach a well-lit chamber – partially open to the outside through a crack – where water is aggressively bubbling from a circular basin.

The pool is a cool refuge from the midday heat, yet warm enough to stay in long enough for the water to have its curative effects on the body. I’ve noticed this from Lengarica: My skin is surprisingly soft and smooth!

There are almost no people here, only a reserved French couple and a friendly Albanian with his wife. He speaks French, too, tells me his wife is Belgian and he lives in Belgium. Every year, he comes to his old home, soaking in the thermal springs for a week to cure his ailments. Just beyond this large pool, there is a canyon, and he tells me there’s an even bigger cave there. One where water not only bubbles up from the ground, but where it is funneled down – a dangerous place to go swimming.

I walk through the canyon, reaching the border to Greece – no border controls here! – and find the cave. Indeed, the first hall is so massive that I can’t see much without a decent flashlight.

Lots of reasons to return!Read more