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Bicycle touring Balkans
  • Where's Woully Wandering.
  • Where's Woully Wandering.

Bicycle touring Balkans

Finally time to get overseas again, a lot got done last year but not much exercise. This will do it. Time to build new memories day by day. In light of all the friends we lost in the last few years; Carpe Diem. Les mer
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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende
    11

    Stavna

    20. juni, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Climbed out of Kolasin towards their ski area. I'm not on the Trans Dinarica, I got off the pavement and onto the ridge above the ski area. In anticipation of Montenegrin inclusion in the EU enormous investment is being made in the ski resort. This far outstrips anything we will ever see in Crested Butte.

    My lunch spot is a grassy knoll with wildflowers and butterflies in a cool breeze. The backdrop of the Accursed Mountains is far in the distance and I can see the valley I rode through yesterday as well as the peaks I want to climb tomorrow. Even further in the distance is the Prokletije National Park in Albania where I'm headed next.

    I met a Dutch couple who are camping for several months and having such a good time that they are not making any headway but that's not their mission. They have no plan other than to have a good time.

    Lothar, who I met several weeks ago in Livno, broke his derailleur and it's now bridging his 10 day repair time by car. Tomorrow we climb the peak on the left.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende

    Kom Vasojevicki

    21. juni, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today I'm climbing with Lothar from Switzerland to the peak on the left in the picture.

    Sunny day and good company to discuss many things of life with.

    For breakfast we sat with a group from Buddva, varied countries and backgrounds made for interesting conversations about traveling as a lifestyle.

    On the way down we meet Lorenz who is from roughly the same area as Lothar. We share some food and then have a coffee. He tells us about a French couple who are aborting their trip in order to bring back home a dog that followed them for 48 kilometers through tunnels and so they feel compelled to adopt her. Lorenz seems to make many detours in order to hook up with people.    Les mer

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    Matarë Albania

    22. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As a kid growing up I would look at the Atlas imagining what the countries were like that I was looking at on the map. Albania always stood out as a place that I had to actually go to because I was so curious about it. Back then it was communist not that I knew exactly what that meant but it did sound extremely foreign to me.

    Today I entered the country, it is no longer communist and in the last two decades it has changed enormously.

    The Albanian Alps are extremely jagged,, jutting out into the sky directly by the road. Just vertical walls framed by thunder and lightning in the early afternoon.

    I ran into Lorenz a couple of times as we leapfrogged each other. He was looking for his Swiss compatriots but it turned out he couldn't find them but I saw them at the cafe.

    Early to bed.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende
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    Theth

    23. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After a 7km warmup I climbed SH22, a twisty road that is favored by many motorcycles and I was greeted by a great little cafe at the top.

    After descending into the valley and at the lowest elevation for the day I could feel the heat that is covering all of Europe at the moment. I stopped at a cafe which served an excellent salad yogurt and tzatziki for an extended rest stop.

    A ways into the second climb I ran into Alex from Germany who had already heard about me as he had camped with Lorenz last night. He was also headed to Theth and the 1500 m climb was going to be a challenge. I felt the same way so we joined up and got to talk the whole way up.
    In total today I climbed 2,247 m (7415ft) over 87km. Awesome day. I feel lucky and grateful that I can do this.

    Everyday so far this trip I think I have seen the most incredible scenery and yet another day exceeds the previous day. Entering the valley of Theth is an experience I won't soon forget.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende
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    Maja e Harapit

    24. juni, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Peja pass was the first hiking objective, coming across the pass I was just stunned by the light grey stony landscape, clouds running across the peaks on the left. I shot a time lapse video and descended a bit down the other side while the phone was perched on a rock.

    I sat on the pass contemplating whether to go up to the peak solo or maybe get a bit more rest in the afternoon.

    I'm lucky, Alina a young German woman who is doing the Balkan Peaks tour with the Bavarian Alpine club asked me if I'm going up to the peak because she would prefer not to go alone and her club is not going up there. We decide to climb up together. She is fast and the rocks are super sticky, the scenery is beautiful and the weather is holding.

    We met four people on top, ate, drank and decided to get down quickly in case the lightning would start early. Meeting Alina made for a really fun day and a nice conversation in German.    Les mer

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    Valböne pass

    25. juni, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This is a very well known track that gets busy so I go very early but there were already people on the trail.

    I shot another time-lapse video on top and had a beautiful moment up there solo hanging out in the sunshine and the cool air while the rest of Europe well below me is baking in the heat.

    Another nice day.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende

    Shkodër

    26. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Early departure riding up the pass where I descended three days ago. The valley route was discouraged as being too rough and strictly 4x4. Since my legs are totally fried from the last two days of hiking and the two long days before that, I choose the 1000 meter climb on pavement. The extended downhill on the other side of the pass was especially alluring.

    I still got to ride the roughest road of the trip in a cutoff to the Mesi bridge, which is the longest Albanian Ottoman bridge at 138 meters. A group of little kids on bikes was really enthusiastic about my bicycle, fun exchange.

    In Shkodër I visited the Rozafes castle and started delving into the Illyrian history that throughout the ages has shaped and maintained the Albanian sense of identity culturally, linguistically and spiritually. Despite being conquered repeatedly the mountain tribes stayed true to their roots.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende
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    Koman

    27. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Very late start out of the hostel after breakfast and putting a tube in the tubeless tire that had completely dried up, no wonder it did not hold anymore.

    It's already hot, 37 degrees Celsius which is what you would expect in Arizona in the summer. All of Europe is this hot. It is supposed to normalize next week back into the mid 20s.

    I'm riding slowly, It's less of a climb than previous days and the big surprise is the brand new pavement all the way to Koman.

    In the room I turn on the AC and catch my first afternoon nap on this trip. Sleep has been hard to come by.

    The lake is stone cold in sharp contrast with the oven like temperatures. Too cold to swim, too hot to stay out. I look at my itinerary and make a change, I'm going back to Prokletije to climb Zla Kolata. Given the temperatures it's better to get up high.

    Nice dinner on the terrace of the hotel with an all Dutch crew.    Les mer

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    Ferry on Drini

    28. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The ferry area is a zoo, they are playing Tetris with cars, motorcycles and lots of people walking about. Ten or so ferries are loading at the same time in this tiny space. I'm in for a wonderful ferry ride on a reservoir through a stunning canyon.

    On to Valböne for another 34km in 37 Celsius heat. Saw the Dutch group again in the AnnA supermarket in Bajram Curri. Made some shady rest stops and got into the river twice to cool off.

    This hostel is a classic Albanian home with a walk out basement. The Valböne valley is absolutely amazing and I'm glad that I changed my plans.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende

    Zla Kolata

    29. juni, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I'm climbing one of the higher peaks in Albania. Super early start since it's supposed to take 8 hours to the top. My hosts prepare a wonderful lunch bag to take.

    The trail is steep, I move at a snail's pace. Four dogs are walking along with me, the views are outstanding and I spend two hours on top just looking around. I can see a lot of places where I have been in the last 8 days.

    Tomorrow is a rest day. I really need it. Almost bed time and my body is formally protesting the excessive exercising. I'm hurting good.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende

    The road is the pot of gold!

    1. juli, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I had to escape the magnetic grip of the mountains. I already came back for a second helping but now I'm riding south again. The Northern Albanian Alps were a major target for me and now I'm wondering if the best part of this trip is behind me. The beauty of travel is that you never know that.

    The landscape becomes more rolling hills, open views, and a drier landscape with a lot of brush oak that I did not see north of here. It's hot again and I need two cooling off stops, one is at a water spout fed by a spring.

    Looking back at the accursed mountains and their deep narrow canyons it's understandable that conquerors, like the Romans, Slaves and Byzantines did not penetrate deep into their territory. Albanian mountain tribes were able to maintain much of their heritage and traditions. Even today's Albanian DNA remains more uniquely Albanian than it should be in the face of over 2500 years of foreign influxes according to one source.

    Thunder and lightning again tonight. Last night's show was outstanding! Dinner with a young Brit who cycled Spain, Italy, North Macedonia and who is on his way north.    Les mer

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    Bujtina Gjana

    2. juli, Albania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Nice slow start. Breakfast with James and two young French women who rolled up the driveway with their touring bikes. We were comparing notes about touring and gear. The French are on their way around the Mediterranean eventually riding the northern coast of Africa to Morocco. Their trick is to figure out how to get past the war ravaged areas of the middle east.

    The ride is much better today in cooler temperatures. I see the French women again in Kukës at the bike shop. Then I'm on my way for the final push up a steep hill and 21km to get ahead on tomorrow's ride and because there seems to be a nice reasonably priced place to stay. It turns out to be a fantastic hotel, it might be the best one yet of the trip.

    30 days solo, so how much does one month of bicycle touring cost? Lodging 660€, food 698€, park entries, busses & ferry 141€. Not counting airfare or bicycle parts and repairs life on the road comes in at 50 euros (60 dollars) per day. That's without a tent or cooking on stoves. That's pretty sustainable even on social security and it qualifies me to be a permanent traveler. Luckily the rest of my infrastructure such as medicare advantage and property expenses is only $120 a month. However, coming back into the US is an expensive proposition, somehow my credit card always takes a hit.    Les mer

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    Peshkopi

    3. juli, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Steep grades that do not lead to mountain tops, but broad vistas over large valleys frame an entirely different landscape.

    It is a B road that normally would have a fair bit of traffic but there are very few cars which makes it a very nice ride.

    Peshkopi lies in an agricultural valley and has a small industrial base as well.    Les mer

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    Librazhd

    4. juli, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Early start for a long and steep ride directly south. Back on the B road and again no traffic to speak off. Freshly paved and winding up and up. 7 false summits was the irony. Every time it looked like there was no more ground that could be higher, then there was. Ha!

    I just realized I only have 3 days left on the bike before I go to Sophia and start getting organized for the return. I'm going to fix up the bicycle for better touring. I'll leave it in Sofia and come back to continue to Turkey by end of August.

    After lunch I ran into a trout farm doubling as a restaurant, serving trout of course. Brilliant idea, I don't think we even have this in Colorado.

    Librazhd is a nice little town, lower elevation and it is hot here.
    Two nights, and a semi rest day tomorrow.    Les mer

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    Via Egnatia

    5. juli, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The best preserved Albanian section of the via Egnatia is in the area. So for my rest day I'll go for two hour jaunt and explore this 2000-year-old marvel that used to connect Dürres to Istanbul. I can do it in a nice loop.

    I have a lot of questions for the Roman engineers. Why here, so high up on the hills? Why at 8 to 10% inclines? Why not keep the road more level? I can understand legions marching and couriers riding horses on this road but I do not see how the merchants moved their wares along here. I had enough trouble pushing my bicycle on the hobbly stony surfaces. They sure put a nice edge stone and a row of larger stones right down the middle giving it a distinct look.

    Standing so high on this ancient road looking down at the new construction in the valley floor the 2000 year contrast springs to life.

    After the first nice sections the road disappears here and there. Then it reappears again only to become a precarious hike a bike section but it's too late to turn around. So my rest day turns into a 6 and 1/2 hour adventure. No worries.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende
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    Lin on lake Ohrid

    6. juli, Albania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I finally reached the fabled lake Ohrid. It is also the terminus of my bicycle ride.

    There's a lot of new construction on a big highway that cuts through orchards and hotels. Progress!

    I get off the big road and venture uphill on little paths. Life is still old style here. A few goats, a cow and a yard with vegetables is all you need.

    Lin is not what I expected, it is still run down. Time stood still here longer than in the rest of Albania. If you wanted to acquire lakeside real estate this might be the place to get in early. There is still an enormous amount of work left to do here.    Les mer

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    Lin

    7. juli, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Rest day, just a short hike on the beautiful peninsula behind the town. It's extremely mellow here. It's still the 1950s if it wasn't for a few modern items. Lin is such a throwback in time. The effects of communism from 30 years ago are still very visible here.

    A few tourists come through here and a fewer stay overnight. Women put out small stalls with homemade products and sell a spinach pie that tastes great. This town is the kind of experience I thought I would find in Albania. For the most part Albania has outgrown this stage economically, especially along the coast, so I hear.

    For dinner I had the local fish from the lake, called Koran. It is delicacy, wonderfully prepared it is a meaty fish that reminds me of salmon but different. Fresh caught in the morning by the host.    Les mer

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Bicycle touring BalkansReisende

    Ohrid via southern route

    8. juli, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Easy ride today, Progradec, Albania is a lively city on the lake and has decent infrastructure, but few tourists.

    I entered North Macedonia and visited the bay of bones, a site where pile dwellings were found from 3000 years ago. The museum has recreated it for us to see.

    Ohrid is a big city and it is hopping late into the night as if it were the Riviera, even on a weekday. On weekends there are festivals, although there was a very nice one tonight showcasing folk dance and music of eastern Europe. The Serbian kids stole the show. I recognized the Montenegrin team from Cetinje where I visited six weeks ago.

    I fell in love with a wooden sailboat with a teak deck. The most impractical combination of course but it is so beautiful. Good thing she is not for sale, just for sailing.    Les mer

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    Ohrid beach

    9. juli, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Met up for a drink with Isabelle and Alix whom I met while having breakfast with James the young Brit about a week ago. We stayed in touch since we are roughly on the same track and might meet up again in Turkey. It's a nice conversation, they are friendly and have a great way to travel on their bicycles. They are working at an eco stay for a week.

    At the France Morocco game I ran into the cyclists I met in Bosnia Herzegovina, small world, very fun guys and we laugh a lot as we share our future itineraries. They had gone north first then to Kosovo and then south. One of them will be headed to Turkey as well.    Les mer

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    Bus to Skopje & Sofia

    10. juli, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    The time has come, the shoes are worn, the tires too, inner tubes are slowly leaking, spokes are creaking, brakes are barely breaking, the bicycle needs work after some 3000km. 73 days of travel in 7 countries and 78km of hiking. Untold vertical meters, endless experiences, new friends and great memories.

    From Ohrid I take a bus to Skopje and then Sofia where I will start repairing and preparing for the next cycling stage which will start in late August from Sofia towards Turkey, Georgia and Armenia.

    It's a bonus, I get a few hours between busses to roam around in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, then it's on to Sofia Bulgaria.    Les mer

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    Day in Sofia

    11. juli, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    While I'm running around the city to find some parts for the bicycle I happen to run into all the sites of interest and a lot of neighborhoods. So a few pictures shown.

    After a nap, I fix a flat tire again and head out to the Delta Blues Bar. Good music, nice vibe. They did a fun rendition of 6 days on the road in Bulgarian. The small crowd in the small bar did a good enough job cheering to earn an encore.Les mer

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    Reisens slutt
    15. juli 2026