• Vicky 'n' Will's Travels
  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels

Rainboat

Life continuously cruising the canals and rivers of England and Wales. Meer informatie
  • Victoria Inn, Allerton Bywater

    7 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Another hot day, we trundled towards Castleford; the area we'd agreed to meet Ali and Tom the following day.

    We scouted out a boatyard for diesel, calling the landline and mobile but got no response and couldn't see anyone around.

    We had better luck with water, pulling up amongst a lot of other boats to grab some lunch, rest and fill up the tank. We considered staying at the Castleford moorings but it was a bit busy and bleak, with concrete paths and chainlink fencing so we chugged on to the Victoria Inn in Allerton Bywater; a pub that maintains bankside moorings. It had been recommended to us and didn't disappoint. It was quite a squeeze to fit in, as other boats had come and gone, leaving gaps not quite big enough for a boat our size, but we managed it.

    It was quiet, with a nice green to walk the dogs and mature trees bordering fenland on the other bank. We had a thrill seeing a Barn Owl with a small mammal in its claws flying over the canal. It flitted back and forth about four times, though we didn't manage to catch it on camera.
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  • Al and Tom cruise to Lemonroyd

    10 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Al and Tom each drove to meet us at Allerton Bywater. It was really good to see them! The day was full of thunderous downpours but after fry ups we seized a break in the rain and set off up the Aire and Calder for an hour's cruise to Lemonroyd marina and visitor moorings. Once underway, us two sat back and let our guests take the tiller. We're really happy with Rainboat's large cruiser stern as it allows four to sit together as we travel.

    With the fens to one side and St Aiden's RSPB site at our destination we passed a numerous herons, swans geese a Little Egret and eagle eyed Al even spotted the first Kingfisher of our time on Rainboat. The really special sighting though, was a Spoonbill. One of an estimated 29 breeding pairs in the UK and only 105 individuals who ovetwinter here!

    The rain caught us up as we approached Lemonroyd lock but didn't dampen our spirits as Al and Tom helped us get through and moor up with roughly 20 other visiting boats. We were all set for a drink at the Tea Shanti narrowboat, whose sign said 'open'. It was only after walking up our towpath, crossing the bridge and doubling back on the opposite bank to reach it in the drizzle that we discovered it was actually closed. Grrr.

    Luckily Will had prepared the makings of burgers and chips which the four of us enjoyed together before Ali and Tom needed to leave.

    We stayed 3 nights at Lemonroyd, enjoying access to the reserve and the good weather that typically arrived after Al and and Tom had left.
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  • Knostrop Fall Lock

    13 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Knostrop Fall Lock was just a few miles outside of Leeds. We found quiet moorings on a dead end towpath and stayed a few days to collect ourselves before venturing into the city centre.

    Will fished as usual but there were no fish. The only thing he caught was a condom 🤢

    Knostropp Lock itself had a tribute to 14 year old George Lund, who lost his life in April, just a few months ago. He jumped into the lock just after a boat had passed through. It was meant to be a prank. He thought he'd be able to get to the ladders and climb out but the turbulence and cold were too much. He resurfaced once but sadly drowned.
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  • Calls Landing, Leeds

    14 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Entering Leeds it struck us how many old industrial brick buildings had been modernised and brought back into use as offices and accommodation. It was great to see.

    The CRT worked us through Leeds lock and told us visitor moorings at the first dock were full. Boaters told us the elsan point was closed as it kept getting vandalised. Luckily our compost toilet means we can last longer without needing facilities.

    On our way towards Granary Wharf we spotted mooring rings and steps on a riverside walkway and decided to stop here. We needed to use our small trolley wheels as extra wide fenders to keep us away from a sunken ledge protruding from the concrete wall. Otherwise we were very close to the city centre and it wasn't a place where people hung around to disturb the dogs.

    Over the two days we visited Kirkgate Market, the stunning Corn Exchange and County Arcade (see pics).

    We over indulged, eating out at the oppulent Mumtaz Indian Restaurant, the ethical Eat Your Greens café and Falaffel Guys street food caravan as well as evening drinks at the old Adelphi pub.

    Leeds didn't seem to have as many urban gardens as Sheffield, but street art enlivened its buildings. There was always something to see.

    We took the dogs with us to explore but there was so much to stimulate their brains that they tired quickly and needed to be left in the boat to rest. Abby the Tabby couldn't come with us but amused herself by stopping passers by for strokes. People loved her and we frequently heard people on the walkway chatting to her. She's come a long way from being a semi feral farm cat who ran at the sight of strangers! We even heard one person saying to their friend 'there's supposed to be a cat along here... oh look there it is!'
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  • Spring Garden Lock

    17 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The trip out of Leeds needed to wait because River Lock, the first on our route, was only allowing passage between 1-3pm to conserve water. The average windspeed was 17mph with strong gusts, exacerbated by tall buildings around which the air was funnelling and swirling. It made controlling Rainboat extremely difficult and we lost one of our lavender plants when she was swept into overhanging trees.

    River Lock was the first of 6 manual locks requiring a windlass and a handcuff key (also known as an antivandal key) to unlock the mechanisms. In addition to the gate paddles which we were used to opening, these locks had ground paddles. These required us to turn a mechanisms on both banks which opened channels in the side of the lock to let water in.

    There were a lot of new elements to get our heads round. We also had to wait for other boats coming down the locks before we could progress up. At most locks people gathered on the towpath to watch. At one point there were 12 'gongoozlers'. No pressure!
    Needless to say we were pretty knackered when we completed Spring Garden lock and pulled over soon afterwards.

    Despite being less than 4 miles out of central Leeds, the spot had grass lining the towpath and a welcome border of trees. The channel was relatively shallow and the water surprisingly clear with green plants covering the bed.

    Being a Sunday there were lots of families, couples and people strolling, jogging and cycling by. Nice for us to see but Leo was wound up and barked insistently at them to go away. Early Monday morning cyclists began zipping by the boat on their commute. Keeping the dogs safe on their walk was pretty tricky. At around 08:30 a loud, slow banging began to send tremors through the boat. It sounded like an industrial press had started up so we made an early departure.
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  • Rodley

    18 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Our journey to Rodley began early and went smoothly. We were amazed at how rural the canal felt while still so close to Leeds.

    We stopped at Kirkstall for shopping and were pleased to discover an electrical recycling bin in Morrison's car park; it's been really difficult finding anywhere to responsibly dispose of such items.

    CRT volunteers had advised us not to moor overnight here because of antisocial behaviour so after lunch we began the second leg of our journey. This took us through a single lock, two staircase locks consisting of three seperate pounds and then three swing bridges. Volunteers helped us through the staircases but boy did it feel like a long drag. We were less than thrilled when we found the second swing bridge had recently been replaced by a private construction company who needed a stronger crossing for its machinary. The process of opening it was ridiculously complicated and time consuming. There had been so many delays to construction traffic that the firm now employed someone to greet boaters and guide them through the steps. We heard afterwards that it is called 'heart attack bridge'. Apparently in the face of a huge outcry, the person who commisioned it told the complainers they could open it in 6 minutes (not the speediest of operations). They set about demonstrating this but had a heart attack in the middle of their exertions!

    Cool headed Will didn't suffer anything worse than frustration but while Rainboat was waiting to go through she got something wrapped around her propeller so we needed to pull over and check the weed hatch. Luckily Vicky had managed to clear it with a few hard revs in reverse.

    The final bump in the road came around 100m from the last swing bridge where we grounded. It only required a push off the bank using our long pole but it was the straw that broke the camel's back and Vicky was in a foul mood when we finally slotted into a line of boats moored on the towpath.

    The two nights spent here helped us relax. There were horses over the stone wall bordering the walkway and a lovely outdoor tea room just a few hundred metres away beside some leisure moorings. It served the best vegan flapjacks we'd ever tasted and an indulgent baked caramel cheesecake.

    Another treat was being able to walk to the old woolen mill where The Great British Sewing Bee is filmed. Vicky is a fan of the show and on the advice of a nearby greengrocer who delivered to businesses in the building, she walked up to the first floor and had a good nose around. The studio wasn't being used for anything at the time but it still made her day.

    Sadly Rodley had no services so we needed to move on, otherwise we would have stayed longer.
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  • Apperley Bridge

    19 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were relieved to find the marina at Appreley Bridge had diesel. Our tank holds 220L but thankfully it wasn't empty. The 137L cost us £175. It was a mix of red and white diesel as the tank feeds both the heating and engine. Will signed a form to confirm the percentage of the mix. At the small boatyard shop we also bought a bottle of liquid to deter diesel bug, a longer windlass to ease our job at the locks and a couple of tins of signwriting paint for Vicky to have a go at painting Rainboat's name. They only had two colours available so we'll need to get the rest elsewhere. It turned out to be an expensive day. At least the water was free!

    We spent three days here allowing Vicky to rest and Leo to decompress. We'd been trying to keep him occupied with visiting different places and having new experiences but his behaviour was becoming increasingly reactive and aggressive. It seemed he'd become strung out and overtired. Having an extended period to switch off, relax and reset was what he needed.

    The towpath ran alongside a football field with plum and hazel trees bursting with fruit. We'd been hearing a strange but somewhat familiar squawking and it took us a couple of days to realise it was a little flock of wild parakeets! There are a number living close to Will's sister's house which is where we'd previously heard their calls.
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  • Beautiful woodland corridor

    23 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Continuing in our aim of relaxing and allowing Leo to decompress we moored up in possibly the most beautiful spot so far. The canal created a corridor through mature woodland, light filtering through a canopy of lush green summer leaves. A meadow sloped to the waterside on the opposite bank. Standing outside in the dappled shade and taking deep breathes you could well believe the air in your lungs was filled with goodness from the trees around you.

    We didn't do much other than walk, fish and watch the world go quietly by. Dogs frollicked in the meadow, many of them taking leaping plunges into the clear water, disturbing the thick carpet of weed waving to and fro in the gentle current.

    We left feeling happily refreshed.
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  • Saltaire

    26 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We were both looking forward to visiting Saltaire; there are quite a few charity shops, a brewery and a lot of canal history associated with the place. Unfortunately Vicky was very weak and when Will jumped off the boat to work a swing bridge coming into the town, he slipped on the steep bank, tearing his calf and taking another plunge into the water. At least he didn't lose his new glasses!

    We moored in a residential area near a boatyard and a stretch of leisure moorings. Will took a walking pole and managed to hobble to the Saltaire Brewery Tap for a pint to drown his sorrows. He even brought back a bottle of non-alcoholic beer for Vicky to try. The drink was good but nothing outstanding.
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  • Bingley Three Rise and Five Rise

    30 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The Bingley Three and the Five Rise locks are listed monuments, Grade 2 and Grade 1 respectively. They consist of... yes, you guessed it, a flight of three locks followed by a flight of five consecutive pounds, each flowing into the next. They opened in 1774 and are the steepest locks on the system. The five locks raise boats nearly 60ft in total.

    Passage is only allowed with a CRT employee (at least in the summer months). You don't need to book ahead but travel is restricted to two hour time slots, beginning at 8am and alternating between descents and ascents. We pulled up at the bottom of the flights just before 10am and were pleased to see one other narrowboat ahead. It is always easier to share. A CRT volunteer and a lock keeper turned up at 10am and we sailed onwards and upwards.

    Thee lockies were cheerful and happy to either work the locks themselves or work with the boat crews. It became a team effort, with several families joining in and having a go winding the mechanisms to open and close the gate paddles, working Rainboat and Wren through the system.

    We chatted away as views of the Aire Valley revealed themselves below us. Maintenance work has taken place over the years, with various wooden bridges and oak gates being replaced. Parts remained unpainted due to uncertainty over what colour would be most historically correct. The world wars saw them blacked to reduce the risk of them being bombed by enemy planes and the black and white photographs before this time are difficult to decipher.

    We made reasonable time and stopped at the top to fill with water, empty rubbish and pick up a delicious Bakewell muffin from the busy cafe close to the services.
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  • Skipton

    31 juli 2023, Engeland ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We spent 6 weeks in and close to Skipton, based around its train station and Ashlands Vets.

    Vicky's parents had recommended this particular vets because both dogs needed vaccinations and follow up shots. Tiger Lilly started her life as a breeding bitch and calcium deficiency took its toll on her teeth. She ended up having 17 removed and the remaining ones scaled and polished. She needed a couple of post op appointments after this as she developed a cough which has thankfully gone now.

    Vicky had also arranged to take the train and spend 10 days in the North East catching up with family and friends. When living in the van and before adopting Abby we would have travelled together, but our current living arrangements mean we'll likely be travelling separately in the future while one of us stays back to look after the animals and boat.

    Skipton is a hub of canal activity, having several boat hire companies for sight seeing cruises, day trips and longer holidays. Private craft line the channel at their year round mooring sites and many boat owners like us stay on the towpath and at visitor moorings, making use of CRT services and the boatyards to buy supplies and get repair work done.

    Our extended stay allowed us to explore the nooks and crannies of the town, looking forward to planned events such as a showing of Mind Games at Skipton Little Theatre, a food festival, a makers market and art exhibition where we met the artists. It really is a lovely town, with its pale stone buildings, cobbled alleys, arched old bridges, a great hardware shop, timber merchants and plethora of charity shops, pubs and cafes. One place we really enjoyed exploring was the Springs Branch; a short, dead end branch of the Leeds and Liverpool. Usually only the very short trip boats travelled up here because they were able to turn around at the second bridge, after which the channel becomes too shallow. It is one of the Inland Waterways Association's Silver Propeller Challenge locations; lesser visited parts of the canal. The challenge is to visit 20 of these locations, for which you earn a special plaque. Always up for an adventure we slowly reversed up the branch. It was a difficult task as manoeuvrability is next to nothing when travelling backwards. Normally the propeller pushes water past the rudder to steer. Sucking it away from the rudder doesn't work half as well, so Will needed to keep switching to forward to correct Rainboat's course. A small river runs along one side of the branch and a cliff rises from the other. Atop the sheer stone perches Skipton Castle. The further along you go, the more the trees arch over the water, their leaves blotting out the sky. After we'd reached bridge number 2 and taken the photo for evidence, forwarding out was a piece of cake. We returned in the canoe a few days later to pick blackberries up until the point an old rockfall blocked our path. Will also enjoyed a quiet bit of fishing.

    Skipton is no Leeds or Sheffield, but by their nature all urban centres are hubs of activity. Rainboat regularly had her mooring pins dragged out of the earth by the force of boats belting past, especially the large trip boat that served a meal to its cruisers. The towpath was narrow and frequented by cyclists, dog walkers, commuters and sightseers. It scared Leo to have so many people looking in through the windows so we kept the landside blinds closed much of the time for his sake. We therefore took little trips up and down the canal to stay for a few days. The change the scenery from stone walls to fields and trees was refreshing and reinvigorated us.
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  • Outskirts of Gargrave

    21 augustus 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    On another foray out from central Skipton we travelled NW and moored just before the beautiful village of Gargrave. The Mason's Arms provided us with yummy falafel burgers for lunch and we took the dogs down to the river to play on the famous stepping stones spanning its width. Leo watched from the bank while Tiger Lilly actually hopped between them quite confidently.Meer informatie

  • Gargrave Visitor Moorings

    12 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Heavy rain delyed our start but it relented mid morning, allowing us to do the 6 miles, 5 swing bridges and 3 locks to get to Gargrave visitor moorings.

    We shared the locks with other boats and sneaked through a couple of the bridges when they'd been opened for other craft so our workload was lessened. It was good to be able to work with other people, especially when Will missed the bank and fell in the canal. Fortunately it was shallow and the others got word to Vicky soon enough so she could leg it back and help him out. No major injuries this time thank goodness.

    It was a chilly evening (6°C overnight), so we lit the fire and enjoyed a takeaway from The Frying Yorkshireman. Very tasty!

    The sunrise was beautifully autumnal, with mist drifting over the water.
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  • Bridge 159, nr West Marton

    14 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A long journey today, albeit through some of the most beautifully rural surroundings we've had the pleasure of cruising through. We tackled 9 locks, with a little help from a lockie on the last couple.

    The sun shone on the grassy hills of the Aire Valley. It's been a particularly good year for hawthorn berries which weigh down the branches in deep red clusters, ready for the fieldfares to feast on when they return from their Scandinavian summer haunts.

    Our wild mooring spot was wonderfully unbusy and we were looking forward to spending couple of days here, but we ran out of gas for cooking so needed to move on after one night. (Will has been baking lots of bread and cakes of late).
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  • Anchor Inn, Salterforth

    15–17 sep. 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We'd not planned to travel today, but the gas had run out the previous evening. Will's been baking much of our own bread and using the honesty box eggs to make cakes. We'd therefore got through the second bottle a lot quicker than anticipated. Luckily Lower Park Marina; a favourite of Vicky's parents, was within a day's cruising distance. We passed Sarah and Dad's regards on to Wayne and James and they sorted us out with gas, water and, red diesel at £1.10 per litre.

    It was a really enjoyable stay at Salterforth Visitor moorings pontoon (limited to two days).

    Will was very keen for Vicky to visit the cellar of the adjacent Anchor Inn with him. Vicky's stepmum Sarah had also recommended it, but neither would tell her why. Early Friday evening we bought drinks and once there was a lull, the landlord snuck us down the stone steps behind the bar. Opening a large wooden door, his handheld floodlight exposed a closed off vaulted passageway from whose ceiling hung pencil thin stalactites a good 2m long. Some of them even joined thicker trunks of stalagmites rising from the stone floor. What an amazing surprise! It was beautiful in a ghostly sort of way and we were very grateful for our private viewing.

    The building had existed since 1655 as a watering hole under several different names. Where we were standing was the old pack horse trail. The publican pointed out the step where the gentry would alight from their carriages and the coachmans' entrance to the rear. When the canal was constructed, earth was banked up above the level of the pub. Street level became the cellars and another storey was built directly on top to become the new pub! With this sort of history, it is no wonder Anchor Inn is a Grade 2 listed building. Happily, the dog friendly business that has recently reopened under new management seemed to be thriving. We visited twice to support this!

    The following day was an adventure...
    Dale View Riding Centre was less than a mile away so we set off in the hope of arranging a ride. Having hauled ourselves up a very long steep hill, we were told that unfortunately, the stables had a long waiting list and only one horse suitable for adults. We'd suspected this might be the case, but the walk was worth it for being able to say hi to the horses and the views over the valley.

    Returning to canal level we quenched our thirst at Anchor Inn before going on a little quest to find an interesting old stone waymarker. Will had seen it on another boater's FB page but it took the power of the internet and persistence to find the location of this ancient artefact.

    The dogs were keen to get out when we arrived back. When walking them we bumped into Brenda; a local who we'd met and chatted to several times previously. She revealed she was on the way to her smallholding to feed the animals. Will knew Vicky would love to help and he had the confidence to ask whether she could go with Brenda. Happily Brenda took Vicky under her wing and chatted away about how she and her partner Howard had gradually accumulated a plot of 2 acres over the course of 50 years. In an assortment of closely packed, well maintained sheds and stables lived Boer Goats, African Geese, Zwarbtles and Dorset Sheep, a couple of feral cats and best of all, two Miniature Mediterranean Donkeys called Max and Bruce. It made Vicky's day being able to pet and feed them. People are so kind!
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  • Foulridge

    17 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We'd stayed our permitted two nights at Salterforth visitor moorings so took the dogs for a walk and set off.

    We moored up just before the 1500m (aprox) long Foulridge tunnel, planning to tackle it on the next leg of the journey. There were noticeably more pedestrians along the towpath than we'd been used to. Leo and Tiger loved all the doggy smells in the grass border!

    The Wharf café, a tall sandstone building, stood just a few hundred yards away so we strolled along at noon the following day for lunch. A number of customers were already seated, but it was a large building so it wasn't over busy. We waited to be seen to while 3 staff hung around and chatted behind the bar. Finally we were directed towards the menu stand, but found only breakfast menus. A waiter sullenly flicked though them, picking out a few turned over at the very back and passing them to us without a word. Vicky's laminated sheet had fallen apart and despite having the VE symbol in the key, no vegan dishes were listed. A new waitress suggested some amendments to vegetarian dishes but by this time we weren't in the mood to eat there and decided to leave.

    Walking up the hill through a district of light industry and houses, we found the highstreet and were welcomed into the New Inn by a friendly young black and white dog. The barman followed shortly afterwards, their arms laden with packets of nuts and crisps. Unfortunately this was the extent of the food served here, but they said the Hare and Hounds, just 200m away did lunch. Third time lucky we finally relaxed with a pie and veggie burger.
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  • Foulridge tunnel & Nelson, nr bridge 141

    18–21 sep. 2023, Engeland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The weather forecasters had kept postponing when heavy rain and strong winds would hit but it was now due the following day and Will wanted to move on before it hit.

    The 1500m (aprox) Foulridge Tunnel is only wide enough for one boat so it is controlled by traffic lights set on a timer. At our end they allowed entry from the hour until 10min past. We ate lunch, emptied our rubbish and pee pots at the services. As we approached the 3 lights, they turned from red to green so we crept forward, unsure of whether the canoe sitting atop Rainboat, would fit under the hanging height barrier. Thankfully there were a good few inches to spare.

    We'd opened all the blinds and turned on the internal lights, as well as the navigation lights on the bow roof and sides. As the semicircular glow of daylight grew receded, the multicoloured fairy lights turned on too. We loved the tunnel, with its small stalactites and ridges of light coloured mineral glistening wet as they ran down the arched walls. The dogs weren't so keen and spent the entire journey huddled inside Vicky's waterproof. She'd hoped to drive some of the way but it fell to Will. He had to concentrate hard to stay on course and manged to navigate the entire length without a single scrape.

    We'd entered in light rain, been dripped on inside (especially underneath the vertical ventilation shafts) and we emerged into heavier rain. Lovely! 😏

    Ahead of us lay Barrowford, Vicky's parents' mooring and 7 locks. Vicky tried working the first one but found she as too weak and had to return to steer Rainboat. The stretch of canal we'd been on was the summit of the Leeds and Liverpool and these locks began its descent. Vicky needed to be extra careful to keep the boat away from the concrete cills protruding from the the base of the back gates. It is submerged when the lock is full but if any part of the boat is above it as the water level drops there is the risk it will get lodged, while the rest of the boat continues to drop with the water.

    The gusty wind made steering difficult, but luckily the locks were close enough together for Will to walk between them without having to get on and off Rainboat and risk getting her blown and trapped against the banks.

    Arriving in built up Nelson we stopped at Morrisons private moorings to get shopping, using our key to get through the locked gate into the car park. We looked for somewhere to stay as soon as we left the shop. The bank was silted up though and we kept getting grounded before we reached the side. Our fourth attempt proved successfull and after we'd hacked down the long wet grass with the sickle and let the dogs out, Will got to cooking and Vicky lit the fire. It was 18:30 and we were all wet and tired.

    Exploring the town centre we found it to be quite run down. The multistorey indoor shopping centre only had one floor open and many businesses were borded up. It was the same on the highstreet. The shops still open were mostly ones that sold takeaway and ready made food; Dixie's Chicken, Asian sweets, cake stores and a few cafes. There were some Asian jewelery sellers and grocers there too.

    We stocked up on trays of tinned tomatoes and chickpeas and feasted on samosas and fresh dates. Yum! 😋
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  • Hapton, Burnley, nr Bridge 118

    21 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We cruised for 4.5 hours today without a single lock or swingbridge. It was a pleasure to take in the varied scenery and Vicky had fun steering through the 511m long Gannow Tunnel. Our route included the Burnley Embankment, also called the Straight Mile and one of the seven wonders of the waterways. Earth, taken mostly from Gannow Tunnnel, lifts 1148m of the canal as high as 60ft, bridging the deep Calder and Brun valleys and avoiding the need for locks.

    Sadly, near the end of our journey we saw fresh flowers heaped on the towpath. Calling up recent news articles for Burnley we discovered they marked the spot a 16 year old boy had drowned 3 weeks ago on the hottest day of the year.

    The railway and the M65 ran close to the canal for much of our journey. Will had looked ahead and found a place where the water looped away from the other transport lines that it was possible to moor. After the urban environment of Nelson it was refreshing to have open views over grass and trees again. Especially as there were horses grazing in the adjacent field. On one of our few short walks during a break in the rain storms we spied a pair of kingfishers speeding along the water surface, their metallic colours shining brightly. Most birds were hunkered down due to the weather but we also spotted a Kestral perching atop a poplar tree amongst a band of mixed trees.
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  • Blackburn

    23 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The cruise to Blackburn was an interesting one. The area was run down with grafitti tags, high perimeter walls, razor wire and rubbish, but there was also evidence of a community spirit in the efforts of small businesses and groups. We passed a mural being painted, a wallpapered phone box and Del Boy's 3 wheeled yellow car as examples of this.

    Drawing near central Blackburn we saw the brick built Imperial Cotton Mill, 1901 -1980. Until recently it had been used by Lancashire Saw Company but in the last few years the District Council bought the site with intentions to preserve local heritage and use it for community events. The chimney of Daisyfield Corn Mill caught our eye as it still displayed the symbol for Granada TV from when they used it as offices.

    Mooring up between a red painted footbridge and a wharf overhanging the water it was surprisingly quiet (well, once the workers regenerating a factory building on the opposite bank shut their cranes and work tools up for the weekend).

    On Sunday we explored the city, visiting the cathedral grounds, shopping mall and The Exchange; an impressive old corn trading building that had been bought by a church group, who were in the process of making it into a gathering place for events such as makers markets, music nights and meetings as well as offering support and advice. They were very open and happy for us to wander. There were photo boards showing an impressive green barrelled ceiling on the upper floor, but there wasn't any access to it.

    We made our way to a few works of art marked on the Maps.me app, but several had been removed while the squares and pedestrian junctions were modernised. Even for a Sunday the streets were very quiet. Some shops were open, but many hadn't thought it worth it, including some large retail chains.

    Hoping for a good view of the city we climbed a road called Shear Bank that lived up to its name. We passed a mosque where children could be seen playing football matches, then cut through Corporation Park to reach The Tank Toposcope. It marked the site of a 50,000 gallon iron water tank, used to supply the houses near the top of the hill between 1897-1978. The view over Blackburn city was mostly obscured by trees and nearby houses but the next valley opened up beneath us and we reckoned that you could see the Blackpool tower and sea on a clear day.

    On our way back we stopped at a Caribbean restaurant called The Wharf, just 100m away from Rainboat. We paired curry, rice, peas and dumpling with a couple of cocktails/ mocktails each. We were the only customers so the atmosphere was a little lacking but the food and drink was good enough and good value.

    The builders started work again on Monday morning and we moved on. Austerity and the cost of living was clearly hitting Blackburn hard.
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  • Riley Green

    25–27 sep. 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Recent rainfall had caused the canal to overflow in places. Luckily it was still possible to walk alongside so Will could access the locks without trouble. He had help from two young twenty somethings called Taylor and Matt. Taylor was keener to learn how to work the mechanisms than Matt but hopefully they both had fun.

    Trees lined our mooring spot without blocking the light so it was a pleasant spot to spend a few days. For lunch on the second day e walked along a busy main road to reach The Royal Oak, about which Will had read good reviews. We weren't disappointed. Vicky worried when she couldn't find anything vegan, but the worry turned to delight when they produced a seperate vegan menu. It was the best meal we'd had out in quite a while!
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  • Withnell Fold moorings

    28–30 sep. 2023, Engeland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The days we cruise now depend a lot on the weather. Weather warnings for wind and rain were in place for the following day so we took the opportunity to move on and hunker down somewhere new for the storm to pass.

    Withnell Fold moorings had space for 2 boats on a jetty with rings. A wide swathe of grass separated us from the newly layed towpath of crushed sandstone, which ran along the border of mature native woodland. Opposite stood the pale stone wall of a factory whose tall windows remained shattered from a fire that had ripped through the building several years back.

    It felt blissfully remote and we enjoyed walking Leo and Lilly through the woodland trails, past a wildlife pond and on a short round route up the hill and through muddy farm fields.

    The storm blew in quickly and buffeted Rainboat, despite her being head on to the winds. We were wary of the gusts tearing down a large dying Ash opposite but what kept us awake all night was Leo yapping and howling at the owls shrieking. Vicky camped on the dinette bench trying to comfort him whilst playing Radio 4's Mindfull Mix and the Sleeping Forecast in an effort to drown out the nocturnal noises.

    Stepping outside the morning after the storm, the old Ash was still standing, but a tree had fallen over the end of the driveway that led to a large house a few hundred metres away. It had bent the top rung of the metal gate and blocked access. It wasn't long before the house owner was out with their chainsaw and near the end of the day a contracter towed a wood chipper to the site, leaving only a smattering of sawdust where the tree had so recently lain.
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  • The Malthouse Farm, Wheelton

    30 september 2023, Engeland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    We stayed over a week oppostie The Maltings pub at Wheelton. Our onward passage is blocked by major repairs being undertaken at Wigan Flight after a boat damaged the foundations of one of the locks. CRT issue progress reports every Friday but it is likely to be about a month before it is navigable once again.

    The bank where we moored had suffered extensive erosion and there was only a narrow passage between us and the garden hedges lining the towpath. The pub was a bit rowdy at weekends but otherwise it was a quiet enough place to stay.

    We spent most days dodging frequent heavy downpours; we're certainly appreciating the comfort of the diesel stove!

    We ventured out one day to visit Top Lock pub for lunch. It had been closed for some time but had recently been taken over by new landlords. There was a lot of work going on when we arrived but it wasn't ready to open to customers. Google Maps showed a vegetarian restaurant less than a mile away so we crossed our fingers and headed for there. Many vegetarian eateries we'd visited while travelling in Europe had been disappointing but Whins Green was brilliant! Set on top of a hill, its floor to ceiling windows looked over the rural valley with Exmoor ponies grazing and a kestral flying between the tops of trees. Will's haloumi burger and Vicky's chocolate brownie ice cream sundae were delicious 😋

    On the way back we swung by Wheelton Boatyard who were able to supply us with a chimney cap to replace the one that blew off in the storm few days ago, as well as a rubber fender after ours became detached and sunk.

    A long line of boats were moored along the towpath at Wheelton Leisure Moorings, one of which had an honesty wheelbarrow selling organic fruit and veg. We picked up an orange marrow and some pears from here.

    The Maltings wasn't too far from Chorley. The town hosts an indoor market open every day, and on Tuesdays it is joined by an outdoor market. We rode the bikes along a puddle pocked towpath, then up the road leading to the town centre. The place was buzzing with activity despite the drizzle. We enjoyed a low priced lunch of fish'n'chips in a marquee that extended the seating area of a small café.

    Now both ebikes are working they make such a positive difference to what we are able to do day to day. An attached to the bathroom sink drainage pipe had become, well, undetached. We looked up a plumbing store several miles away that was relatively easy to get to by bike. A helpful employee rolled his eyes when Vicky told him we needed parts for a boat, but he cleverly put together three different fittings that did the job well.
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  • Chorley nr bridge 77

    10 oktober 2023, Engeland

    Tuesdays are Chorley's market day and we'd enjoyed visiting last week so today we cruised a little closer to the town centre. Vicky was too fatigued to visit the markets in the end but Will popped in, had a good look around and came back with a rucksack full of groceries. We'd initially meant to move on to a better mooring but it was raining and this spot opposite a new residential estate was good enough for a couple of nights so we stayed put.

    Sorry, no outdoor pics but here are Leo and Lilly snuggling inside where it was warm and dry!
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