Crocs at Windjana Gorge & Tunnel Creek

DRIVE: Bell Gorge to Fitzroy Crossing via Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek (314km).

We had a silent sleep at Silent Grove Campground, Bell Gorge last night and moved on early to Windjana Gorge, 146km down the Gibb onto the Fairfield Leopold Road.

Not knowing what to expect, Windjana Gorge looks and feels so prehistoric, calved out by the Lenard River, it’s a 3.5km long gorge through the limestone of the Napier Range.. It’s part of an ancient sea bed and extensive fossilised barrier reef from 360 million years ago.

The reef was offshore from the mainland and what is today the central Kimberley Plateau. So basically we are by the beach and standing in a place that was originally part of the Devonian Sea.

We view a fossil of a fish and other sea life embedded in the wall of a sandstone cove which has been shaped and calved out over time.

The river is low but within its murky pools of water and on the river banks are dozens and dozens of crocs. That’s right, crocodiles, the fresh water variety. Unless gentle moving on top of the water, they sit perfectly still on the banks taking in the heat of the sun. This is the closest to wild crocodiles we have been except for maybe the ones we have swam with already, unaware of their presence. Jen hates crocs so to be this close is a big deal. No swimming here though unless we want to lose our toes, but cheekily I comment to passers by, “that was a refreshing swim dear”.

Above the river on a shady branch we spot a Nankeen Night Heron also known as a Rufous Night Heron. He’s pretty, majestic and quite eye catching really. Wait on our eyes are meant to be on the crocs within 2 metres of our feet. Aha, a decoy obviously!!!

35km further down the road is a unique natural attraction named Tunnel Creek in The Devonian Reef Conservation Area.

The cave has been carved out by the waters of Tunnel Creek flowing beneath the Napier Range and we walk mainly in darkness with our iPhone torches in for a good kilometre wading through fresh water pools knee deep.

The cave features many beautiful formations, including stalactites and stalagmites, and is also home to a variety of bats, olive pythons and knee deep freshwater crocodiles.! Tunnel Creek is a site of cultural significance for the local Bunuba people.

CAMP: Fitzroy River Lodge / 2 Nights
We are well on track and make it to Fitzroy Crossing and Fitzroy River Lodge for mid afternoon. Reaching the end of the dirt road and finding a bitumen highway is like a spiritual cleansing experience. We pump up the tyres to correct pressure for on road and trundle on. Crossing the mighty Fitzroy River, it’s pretty dry and barren in contrast to the resort pub which is wet and lush as it has beer and burgers... yeah!

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