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Walshies Down Under
Walshies Down Under

Walshies Down Under

Walshies Down Under Czytaj więcej🇦🇺Box Hill South
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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    The Dusty Bar at Home Valley Station

    31 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    DRIVE: El Questro to Home Valley Station (50km).

    Leaving El Questro, we spot the resident donkey on the side of the road standing perfectly still and looking forlorn. Jen tells me to pull over as she wants to pat the donkey and say goodbye. Jen hates seeing animals distressed so she just wants to comfort the donkey. As she walks up to the donkey, it catches her eye and suddenly bolts, dashing down the dirt road, it’s little legs spinning at 100 mile an hour, as if it had seen a ghost or something. It’s so funny. It wasn’t the reaction Jen was expecting and last time we heard, the donkey had been sighted on the Gibb River Road scared shitless on its way to Broome...

    From El Questro it’s just 50km to Home Valley Station and our first real taste of the dirt, dust and corrugation of the Gibb River Road.

    The highlight for the day was supposed to be the Pentecost River Crossing as we had seen video footage of the crossing in full flow. With the driest of wet seasons since the 70’s, the river is barely a couple of puddles across the rocky river bed so its no challenge to navigate in the 4WD.

    CAMP: Home Valley Station / 1 Night.

    We choose our unpowered shady sites for the night and unwind. Jen explores the area and takes some interesting shots. The rock sculptures with a rock the shape of Australia in between them is of note. There are lots of young families here and the kids are having a ball, bare feet and running wild having their own fun adventures and chasing bulls away.

    Home Valley Station has an excellent restaurant called Dusty Bar and travellers drive for miles just to enjoy a meal. We will have to choose between tuna pasta from our supplies or a Chicken Parma at Dusty Bar. This may well be the last opportunity for a dine out experience for a while so we choose the Parma at Dusty Bar. Now that was a meal and a half. Jen chooses the Pork Ribs and they are massive.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    King Julian and The Pigeon Lookout

    30 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    It’s day three in El Questro. I am up early but no rush this morning so I whip up some pancake mix and make some thin crepes, cover them with hot buttered walnuts, a generous drizzle of honey and a squeeze of lemon. Perfecto.

    Jen, Andrew and Anne revisit Zebedee Springs this morning whilst I hang around El Questro Station with my laptop and other gadgets to communicate with the outside world. I put a couple of loads of washing on, grab myself a double shot latte from the cafe and find a power point to plug my power board and all my gadgets in to charge them up.

    The guys return before lunch and we drive back to camp for a lazy afternoon. Sometimes you just need to put feet up and rest for a while.

    Later in the afternoon, it’s time to make our way to sunset. First, it’s a short drive from camp on a perfectly graded road to the jetty at Chamberlain Gorge. This is where the boat cruises depart from up the Chamberlain River. On our way, we finally spot the exclusive El Questro Homestead up from the jetty on the bend of the Chamberlain River.

    There’s a famous photo of the Homestead from a vantage point and Andrew thinks it’s from Branco’s Lookout where the Pentecost and Chamberlain Rivers meet.

    We drive to the river crossing where a giant Boab tree sits and inspect the road ahead. The crossing is very bumpy with big boulders to navigate although little river water remains in the crossing.
    It’s difficult terrain all the way up to Branco’s Lookout so myself and and Jen decide not to attempt the crossing. There’s been a recent sighting of a 4.5m salty crocodile in the river so best not getting stuck and having to toss a coin to see who gets out to push the car...!

    Andrew and Anne are keen and cautiously attempt the crossing with success and continue on. As it takes a while for the return trip, we arrange to meet back at camp and then go to Pigeon Hole Lookout for sunset.

    The turn off for Pigeon Hole Lookout is a short distance from where we left the Lloyde’s so we decide to drive the 9.3km 4WD track to the lookout as it was 4.30pm and the sun was already dropping. Jen grabs the walkie talkie to let the Lloyde’s know... “copy King Julian”, Andrew’s newly appointed name. There’s no response so obviously we are too far apart.

    After crossing a couple of creeks, we reach a steep hill section which looks tricky but the Toyota Prado does it fine. Slow and steady, we reach the lookout and are treated to magnificent views overlooking a valley on a bend in The Pentecost River. The sun is creeping it’s way behind the hill so we set up with a cider and Corona, perch ourselves on a bench fashioned from old timber and enjoy the view.

    Keerrrr.... copy King Julian, can you hear me King Julian. Still no reply. We meet a couple at the lookout and ask to use their CB radio but Andrew and Anne don’t reply and are still out of range. The couple set off in their 4WD as they want to be down well and truly before sunset and then they suddenly reverse back up the hill... “I think we heard him, King Julian on the radio” like now he’s infamous in these parts.

    Thanks mate I reply but what you heard was me calling King Julian again... ha!

    So we settle in for sunset and take some fab pics. Suddenly on the radio we here “King Julian here, over”. We have finally made contact to tell the Lloyde’s we are at Pigeon Lookout so they are on their way up just before the sun disappears.

    We enjoy our final sunset over El Questro together and return to camp before dark.

    All hail King Julian.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Zebedee Springs & El Questro Gorge

    29 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Zebedee Springs is a must do in El Questro. It’s a popular natural thermal spa that has formed as a series of cascading rock pools each one the size of a spa bath or sometimes a smaller bathtub. What’s more, it’s totally free.

    The sign says, if the car park’s full, then the springs are full. We are early starters so not too many people about this morning. However, Zebedee Springs closes to the public at 12 noon by which time the tour folk staying in residence and the homestead get the afternoon.

    It’s a 600m walk crossing the residual of the springs as they flow to ground level. We literally can’t wait to get our clothes off (well not all of them) and hit the warm 30+ degree thermal hot pools.

    It’s bliss. We find a perfect pool at the top of the hillside where a thermal hot spring is venting at the source.

    Group shot time. I set up my camera for the usual time lapse 3 shots but on attempting to get back to the guys after pressing the shoot button on the camera, I fell into the rock pool causing a commotion. All good fun.

    After a few hours of relaxation and deep cleansing therapy, we started to look a bit prunish so we vacated our hot springs pool.

    It’s still mid morning and we tend to peak before lunch time, then head out in the afternoons. Today is no exception as we drive a few kilometres to the El Questro Crossing and access to El Questro Gorge.

    The water crossing is deep here, slightly above bottom door line and it goes for about 150 metres with grassy verges on either side.

    Common sense prevails and me and Jen decide to leave our hire 4WD at this end and get a lift with Andrew and Anne in their 4WD. Our car would do it fine but if anything went wrong, we would lose our bond plus the cost of car repair and recovery. Not worth it and not keen to test our submarine capabilities.

    Andrew does it easy and we reach a carpark on the other side.

    El Questro Gorge is 2km one way but if you feel up for it, you can climb a boulder in the gorge and continue further to a waterfall. We settle at the Gorge, a fairly deep pristine plunge pool surrounded by ferns. The water is a lot cooler than Zebedee and quite refreshing. The walk through the gorge is stunning.

    Returning to camp, we decide to have the rest of the afternoon chilling and enjoying the afternoon shade. A new collection of firewood is underway and we light up early as I need glowing coals for my pot belly lamb casserole.

    Anne prepares potatoes and carrots whilst I cut onions, garlic and mushrooms.

    After sizzling the onions and garlic with rosemary, I throw in lamb shoulder pieces and stir fry for a few minutes, then add the potatoes and carrots. Next went in a 6 hour slow cook lamb casserole sauce and a tin of crushed Roma tomatoes. I finish off with small cherry tomatoes and a good lashing of balsamic vinegar, pop the lid on and let it cook on the coals for a couple of hours. It’s not a six hour slow cook, the guys would have eaten me alive by then but it was tender, juicy and tasty.

    In the middle of the night, I wake and climb down from the roof top tent to go for a pee. Torch light in hand, I hear a rustle close by and point my beam of light to find a huge bull with big horns crouched down within 5 metres of the tent. It’s obviously settled in for the night so I leave him in peace and catch him again early in the morning.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    From Tomb Raider to Croc Dundee

    28 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌬 32 °C

    DRIVE: Wyndham to El Questro via The Grotto and Emma Gorge (82km).

    As we drive out of Wyndham, workmen are busy extending the lanes on the highway for a good few kilometres. Quite a project considering Wyndham is so remote and it’s a bit of a ghost town. Maybe they’ve found gold again.

    We finally hit the Gibb River Road today although coming into El Questro the road is sealed almost all the way to the doorstep so not quite off road corrugation yet.

    On our way, there’s a sign and an off road track for “The Grotto”. Curious to see what it is, we detour onto the dirt and drive a few kilometres to a car park at the top of a gorge. The gorge seems lush with plants and trees and we venture further following a high ridge line. Steep stone steps fall from the cliff face into The Grotto below so we carefully traverse them into a tall gorge with a waterhole in the middle.

    The smooth stone walls of the gorge have been immaculately shaped and long sprawling tree roots have taken hold between the crevasses. It’s like Tomb Raider and I am expecting a secret stone floor to give way and expose a labyrinth of underground tunnels, giant spider webs, snakes and skeletons. It’s that kind of place.

    There are trickles of fresh water still falling from the top of the gorge sustaining moss and lichen. In wetter times, there would be a majestic waterfall filling up the pool 100m deep.

     A thick rope swing hangs invitingly from a tree branch just waiting for an adventurer to swing out and plunge. However, with the dry weather, the waterhole looks a bit stagnant and too dark to enter. I am sure Lara Croft would be swinging from the rope with gusto.

    The Gibb River Road at the junction of the great northern highway runs 770km from the Kununurra side to Derby. Most of it is unsealed. We pause at the sign for a photo opportunity just like every other traveller gone before us and then head to Emma Gorge.

    Emma Gorge is part of the El Questro experience. The main resort is lush with well manicured green grass, boutique accommodation, a pool and a cafe/bar/restaurant. We decide to sit and enjoy an iced coffee before hiking the 1.5km into the gorge.

    The hike is a bit rocky underfoot following a fresh water stream. Emma Gorge is massive with a vertical amphitheatre of rock wall surrounding a fresh water pool fed by a tall waterfall. The pool water is cold and refreshing but over the far side, thermal spring water seeps through a crack at the base of the cliff and the rock is warm to touch.

    Again, Jenny is in heaven and even the sun is shining in on her side of the gorge.

    This is definitely a Crocodile Dundee kind of pool. There’s a resident crocodile (or three) in here hiding somewhere under a ledge. Don’t worry, it’s just a freshie so no one’s worried and besides, I have a hunting knife between my teeth as I dive under the water... “That’s not a knife” says Andrew...

    Seriously, a couple of swimmers with snorkel and mask have just spotted the crocodile on the move.

    Returning to Emma Gorge Resort, we find a picnic table and stop for lunch. Cream cheese and smoked salmon for us today so life isn’t too bad on the road and we have certainly been eating well from our seemingly never ending grocery supplies.

    Next stop is a dirt road to El Questro leading off the Gibb River Road. We drop the tyre pressure once more as from here on in, its 4WD terrain for a couple of weeks. There’s a couple of creek crossings on the way to El Questro but the dirt road had been recently graded so quite smooth really.

    On arrival, we find reception and check in for three nights. There’s a range of accommodation from the caravan park, boutique tents, remote riverside camping and the exclusive El Questro Homestead, it’s location kept secret from the riff raff.

    CAMP: El Questro Riverside Campsite, Wren / 3 Nights.

    I had booked two remote riverside camping sites, Sea Eagle and Wren on the banks of the Pentecost River but reception assured me that all 4 of us will fit on one site so we choose Wren. Best to keep the Coight family together. All of the riverside camping spots are named after birds but Jen’s Magpies don’t get a look in.

    It’s a short 2.5km drive to Wren passing an airplane landing strip and then following a single lane track to our campsite. It’s awesome, a super large bush camp, slightly elevated with direct access to The Pentecost River just metres away and a fire pit. Anne is very excited about having a fire.

    We waste no time setting up camp, experts by now and then take a swim in the river to cool off from the midday sun. The El Questro team assured us it’s fine to swim as there are no estuarine crocs in this section. Can’t quite work out why the crocs are further down the river and not here...!

    Always looking for a trick, I happen to stand on a tree branch in the river so seize my opportunity to have some fun. Jen is close by but a predictable target so I chose Andrew. The tree branch is long enough for me to be more than arms length and the guys don’t know I have it under the water.

    I prod at Andrew’s leg from beneath the water which startles him a little, then I go in for a second bite as Andrew shouts “holy shit”. After a few seconds, I target Jen. Is that you? Jen says. Anne is on the river bank and comes to my defence and says “it can’t be Steve, he’s metres away”. Exactly, my croc trick had worked but I quickly show my hand as by now it’s obvious and I can’t keep a straight face. I reveal the stick but Anne is still coming to my defence adamant that I was metres away oblivious to the stick I was holding. It’s a funny moment.

    There’s no time to waste, the sun is dropping and we gather firewood and start a big camp fire. The sky darkens and millions of stars appear. This is real camping. We sit around the camp fire recalling our events of the day. Andrew and Anne don’t have official CB radio “handles” yet so after Andrew’s magnificent impression of a famous Madagascan Lemur, I pronounce him”King Julien”. Hail to the king. Anne’s is “Honey Bun”.

    The temperature is cooler here at night which I like as it helps with a good night’s sleep. The girls are playing a board game, Andrew is on his laptop updating his footprints and as usual, I am first to bed and first up in the mornings making noise and putting the kettle on for a coffee. See you in the morning then...     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Spectacular Marlgu Billabong

    27 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Marlgu Billabong in the Ngamoowalen Conservation Park is literally an oasis in the middle of nowhere. Life thrives here including many bird species and salt water crocodiles. We’ve never seen a billabong with so many lilies floating atop the remote but thriving water course.

    I take the opportunity to take an arial view with some drone footage which is awesome so check it out.

    We have lunch here in a bird hide and spend the time viewing the wildlife and taking close up shots of the lilies..     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Ivanhoe Crossing, The Back Rd to Whyndam

    27 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    DRIVE: Kununurra to Whyndam via Parry Creek Road (100km).

    After leaving Argyle Homestead Museum, we travel back to Kununurra for supplies on our way to the Gibb River Road. Yes that’s right, we haven’t even started the Gibb yet and we’ve done so much already. Kununurra seems like our home town as we have passed through a few times already and it’s central to everything and as far away from anything...!

    We are taking the back road, Parry Creek Road to Wyndham travelling through Ngamoowalen Conservation Park. A couple of kilometres out, the road seemingly ends and we are confronted with a curving horizontal wall of fast flowing water cascading over a small but impressive falls. This is the famous Ivanhoe Crossing and one of Andrew’s bucket list items. Yes that’s right we’re driving across it, right down the middle between the bollards and the edges of the river...!

    The Ivanhoe Crossing extends over Parry Creek and is inhabited by infamous salt water crocodiles. Regardless, a number of fishermen are perched on the edge of the crossing in a foot deep of water intent on catching a Barramundi or two.

    A foot deep is low for this time of the season so we assess the correct pathway ahead, basically stay in the middle and avoid knocking the fishermen downstream, and put the 4WD into low range gear.

    Andrew goes first and takes about a minute to do the 200m crossing. Jen is keen to tackle the river so steady as she goes, she steers the 4WD across the flow. One of the fishermen gives us a wave as we pass or maybe he’s just checking we don’t run him over...

    It’s awesome but over too soon as we are so focussed on staying on course and getting to the other end. Well done Jen. From novice off-road driver on Fraser Island to expert river crossing driver over Ivanhoe crossing.

    There’s a smaller but less defined crossing further ahead which we navigate with confidence and continue in our way.

    Stopping at Marlgu Billabong for lunch on the way through (see separate footprint), we continue the 100km stretch to Wyndham which is the Northern most point of Western Australia.

    Wyndham sits in the mouth of The Cambridge Gulf which is a tidal river. Wyndham was originally settled as a gold mining town. Today it looks more like a ghost town as we pass through an abandoned township on the way to the port.

    We drive up a steep hill to the lookout and are treated with never ending spectacular 360 degree views of The Cambridge Gulf, The Kimberley’s and the Wyndham Port below.

    Wyndham is strategically placed and is where the merger of “The Five Rivers”, Ord, King, Pentecost, Durack and Forrest takes place which flow into and supply The Cambridge Gulf.

    Jen spots a pioneer cemetery where many of the original settlers are buried.

    CAMP: Whyndam Caravan Park / 1 Night
    We set up for the night at the Caravan Park and enjoy a shower and an early night as it’s been another epic one.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Durack Homestead and 7520 Cattle

    27 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We leave Lake Argyle to travel a few kilometres down the road to The Durack Homestead (The Argyle Homestead Museum). If there’s a story to tell about endeavour and the resilience and determination of the early pioneers on thIs great land, then this is it.

    In 1953, Michael Durack, a struggling tenant farmer from Ireland moved to Goulburn in New South Wales with his family. Not long after he had settled, Michael died leaving his eldest son, 18 year old Patrick (Patsy) to look after the family.

    Patrick Durack married Mary Costello in 1862. He soon established a head of cattle 30,000 strong in Coopers Creek, South West Queensland but mindful of drought, he sought more dependable land. The Durack family acquired substantial land in The Kimberley’s, Western Australia and in mid 1883, they began the historic task of stocking the land.

    7520 cattle and 209 horses were to be driven over 4,800km from Coopers Creek to The Ord River in Western Australia. The original timeframe for the journey to move the cattle was 3 to 4 months. However, they were often held up for weeks and months facing drought, floods, fever and disease, scurvy, crocodiles and native spears.

    They eventually arrived at The Ord River in September 1885, more than 2 years later losing half the cattle, many of the horses and a few good men.

    After Mary passed, Patrick built a Homestead for The Durack family on their Kimberley land at Argyle on the banks of The Behn River. It survived a few generations until The Ord River Dam project created Lake Argyle in 1971.

    Before Argyle was flooded taking out most of the homestead, the family home was taken apart with each stone numbered and stored for future relocation, The Durack Family Home was reconstructed on higher ground and opened as the Argyle Homestead Museum in 1979 in recognition of the pioneering spirit and historical significance of Patrick and The Durack Family.

    We have followed a similar route on our travels to The Kimberley’s in the luxury of an air conditioned 4 wheel drive. It’s a long way with harsh sun burnt land to navigate and I can’t imagine how Patrick Durack drove his cattle 4,800km across unforgiving land to settle in the mighty Kimberley’s.

    It’s the stuff of legend.     Czytaj więcej

  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    A Sunset Cruise on Lake Argyle

    26 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It’s Sunday and one week since we met up with The Lloyde’s at Timber Creek. We have had such a great adventure together so far squeezed into just seven days from the fresh water crocs in Timber Creek to Aboriginal art at Keep River NP, a Heli flight and hikes through the Bungle Bungles and today, a magnificent sunset cruise on Lake Argyle.

    But first things first... Jen cooks up a hearty Sunday morning breakfast. The sizzle of morning bacon is a welcome sound anywhere especially after spending a couple of days remote and on the go. We are in no rush today. It’s a washing day so the sheets come off from our roof top bed and we gather anything that needs a wash before we hit the Gibb River Road. I clear up the fridge which has worked a treat on the auxiliary 12v battery. The more food we eat from the fridge, the more we realise that a fair chunk of its contents is... you guessed it, chocolate.

    After breakfast, we walk the main road down to the Ord River Dam to see the structure that holds 19 times Sydney Harbour in fresh water. The wall height on river side is 98m in height and a small power station generates hydro electricity for the Caravan Park, Kununurra, Whyndam and The Argyle Mine.

    We are booked on the 2.15pm sunset cruise on Lake Argyle which is a 4 hour venture. With bathers at the ready as we are promised a sunset swim, we head to the resort’s cafe to first watch an historical documentary about the making of the dam walls.

    The cruise is fully booked and a coach arrives to take us down to the lake where our vessel awaits.

    The tour host, Grant, was very informative and we loved hearing about the history of the lake and facts and figures.

    Fact: there are approximately 30,000 fresh water crocodiles living in the lake, the biggest concentration of crocs in the world.

    So why have we signed up for a sunset swim? Grant assures us that the crocs are generally shy beasts and stay away from human activity. That’s nice dear, I say to Jen. We immediately spot a couple of freshies on the banks of an island catching the afternoon sun. The crocs thrive in the man made lake as there are lots of small islands that protect them and their eggs from predators.

    The cruise stops off in a cove and we feed the fish with wedges of bread. Curious to think how all animals and especially fish love a piece of bread. It must be the universal foodie favourite.

    As the cruise passes an area called bay of islands, we turn and go through a relatively narrow section between red rock cliffs. Here we capture the full magnitude of the lake as it expands across the horizon as far as the eye can see, like an inland sea.

    In the far distance, Brad points out the Argyle open cut mine which has been gouged out of the earth, 50km wide.

    We view some curious but cautious Wallabies jumping about on land and as the sun begins to drop, the cruise finds an orange buoy at what seems the middle of the lake for our sunset swim. Far from the middle of the lake, we have only explored 10% of the lake but this spot seems far away from land and hopefully the crocodiles.

    Mark, the cruise Captain announces that we can jump off the top of the vessel if we like. Always being first in line for school dinners when I was a kid, I climb the ladder and immediately jump into the lake from above while Andrew jumps off the back steps.

    Expecting the lake water to be cold or at least fresh, it’s a pleasant 28 degrees and so refreshing now that the sun has lost its bite. Jen and Anne join us and soon everyone is flooding into the lake, many armed with colourful floating noodles.

    Mark, the Captain proceeds to fill a modified life ring with glasses of champagne, beer, crackers and dip and launches it into the lake for us to feast on. Such an Aussie thing to do eh. Those who missed out on a beer get thrown a tinny from the boat. It’s so much fun.

    Of course I play my crocodile impersonation card, dive under the lake water and grab Jens leg on the way up as she screams and everyone laughs.

    It’s a bliss moment floating in the lake, a memorable end to week one of our top end adventure. The sunset is awesome which reflects the slight ripples in the otherwise dead calm lake water.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    To Infinity And Beyond

    25 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a pleasant night’s sleep at Hidden Valley Caravan Park, Kununurra, we retrace our footprints and travel back to Lake Argyle.

    DRIVE: Kununurra to Lake Argyle (91km).

    CAMP: Lake Argyle Caravan Park / 2 Night
    On arrival, the caravan park is run more like a resort than a camping ground. We check in for two nights and decide to upgrade our unpowered non shady sites to a large full shade site for us all to share. Besides, a bit of power goes all long way charging up our gadgets.

    Being next to a massive reservoir of fresh water in Lake Argyle, there’s no shortage of supply. The grounds at the caravan park are lush and it’s bliss to see green grass again.

    The caravan park has a unique infinity pool which sits high on the cliff edge overlooking Lake Argyle. It’s an awesome spot and so inviting after surviving a few days in the dust. It’s refreshing to enjoy clean blue water and look at the view, infinity and beyond...

    Lake Argyle is an enormous lake created by a dam across The Ord River. The Lake itself is 19 times the size of Sydney Harbour. A major engineering marvel as the dam location is on a fault line, the Ord River Dam commenced construction in 1969 and was completed in December in 1971.

    Although still hot at poolside, the sun is not as intense here. Jen finds a sun lounge which currently sits in the shade but she repositions it to enjoy one of her favourite past times... being a lizard. In fact we have given Jen the CB radio call sign “handle”, LIZARD. copy that.

    My “handle” is Stevie Coight” and together with The Lloyde’s, we have adopted the name, “The Coight Family”. Again if you are a bit confused, google Russell Coight to watch his outback antics and you can work out how much fun we are giving.

    I meet a young female backpacker in the infinity pool and well she’s from Manchester, my home town. We comment on how similar the weather is here to Manchester...! Also a group of fanatical cyclists are cooling off in the pool after a mammoth 5 days and over 600km journey on their mountain bikes from Derby to Kununurra.

    The beer garden comes alive after sunset so we sit and have a coldie before dinner listening to a young male guitarist play a repertoire of classic songs. Many of the tour groups and the oldies sit around and order meals from the restaurant but I have a juicy rump steak to prepare with rocket salad.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    The Pink Panther Diamond

    24 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Ever seen the Pink Panther movies? Sure you have. I loved the cartoon show too.

    Well the Pink Panther is a fictional rare pink diamond In the movie which reflects the image of a panther from within. Pink diamonds are indeed extremely rare and substantially more valuable than their white diamond equivalent. Although you may not spot a panther in its brilliant shine, there are examples of equivalent sized pink diamonds to that of the mythical legend.

    In 2013, the real Pink Panther diamond, The Pink Star went under the hammer for $83million (£52million). Oval-shaped and mounted on a ring, the flawless diamond weighs in at 59.60 carats and measures 2.69cm by 2.06cm.

    In 2012, a "remarkable" 12.76 carat pink diamond was unearthed in Australia. Named the Argyle Pink Jubilee, the huge rough stone was found here in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. It had taken 26 years of Argyle production to unearth this stone.

    The Argyle pipe is 500 metre deep and long and the largest vein of diamond on the planet.

    So why is all this diamond information relevant? We are in Argyle country, the home to the largest pink diamond mining production in our he world.

    Kununurra is the main township and sits close to Argyle. The Argyle Mine startes In 1979 and supplies approximately 90% of the world’s pink diamonds and is the only reliable source of intense pink diamonds.

    To understand how rare the pink diamond is, we visit Kimberley Fine Diamonds in Kununurra town centre. They have diamonds, jewellery and fine home wear on sale. Argyle diamonds are rare beyond rare. In fact, less than one tenth of 1% of Argyle diamond production is pink. A whole year’s worth of production of pink stones, over half a carat would fit in the palm of your hand.

    Jen is interested so we browse the shop and find a selection of tiny pink diamonds for sale. Andrew has a glass cutter for the cabinet and I am a keen runner so we at least have a mission and a plan to get our hands on a pinky. Besides, it’s also Anne’s birthday today. The smallest diamond is a brilliant round pink diamond which seems not much bigger than a grain of sugar and has a $9,000 price tag. The most expensive one I could find was for $446,000, an emerald shaped pink diamond and even that was quite tiny.

    Jen spots something in the shop that she likes and buys it on impulse and comes out of the shop smiling with a small Kimberley Diamonds bag in her hand. My heart jumps a beat for a second... until Jen reveals a miniature wooden sculptured camel for the exclusive price tag of... $9.95. Whew I say, the drinks are on me tonight then!

    When it comes to the Argyle diamond shop which is set in the heart of a local and poor Aboriginal community, the word incongruent comes to mind. There’s millions of dollars of pink diamonds sitting in a fancy shop on the inside of a door, mined from sacred lands whilst on the outside, but two metres away, the Aboriginal folk are hanging around with seemingly nothing to do and little or no money to live on.

    I much preferred the pink Lambourghini in the cartoon version of The Pink Panther anyway. It is estimated that the Argyle Mines will run out of pink diamond sources in a few years as finding these rare stones becomes uneconomical.

    As mentioned, It’s Anne’s birthday today so Andrew has booked us all in at The Pump House restaurant overlooking the Ord River. In the distance, the Australian Girls Choir are rehearsing on an outdoor stage for a performance tomorrow and they are singing “I still call Australia home”.

    The restaurant is quirky as it still holds all the old pump house machines and pumps and the food is outstanding. Not normally my choice for dining out, I choose the 7 hour cooked lamb which melted in my mouth. Andrew has a tasty and glamorous corned beef whilst the birthday girl, Anne, and Jen have the beef medium rare.

    The whole meal cost us exactly $446,000.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik
    1

    A Beam of Light in Echidna Chasm

    23 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The morning is still young and after our exhilarating helicopter flight over the Bungle Bungles, we follow Gorge Road and head over to the northern section of Purnululu. We’re meant to stay here tonight at Kurrajong Campground but have decided to visit the area, then drive back to Kununurra.

    Reaching Echidna car park, it’s a lovely still morning and there are shaded picnic tables so we enjoy breakfast without any rush. I trundle up to Osmand Lookout, a few hundred metres away to get an aerial perspective of the escarpment and the area.

    Walking into Echidna Chasm, there’s towering Livistona palm trees everywhere and lush green foliage. The chasm is a narrow gorge, at some points only two metres wide, but with 200m high vertical walls. It’s impressive walking in and the pathway seems endless as it skirts between the narrow slits between the walls. It’s got a real Indiana Jones feel to it.

    We are here to observe a daily ritual that is millions of years old when at approximately midday, the sun breaks in through the shadows and lights up the gorge like a laser sharp beam of golden orange light.

    After a few hundred metres into the gorge, there’s a central chasm and Jen finds a comfortable spot to lie down between a bed of rocks and pebbles (a rock and a hard place...). I think she’s asleep. It’s whisper quiet as we wait for the midday rising sun to filter down the walls and light up the crevasses of the gorge.

    This is not the end of the chasm and I take a left hand turn through another ancient doorway following the gorge deeper. It’s darker and narrower here but in the distance are 2 seperate aluminium framed steps leading enticingly to what looks like a vertical shaft with a large and perfectly symmetrical boulder lodge between two adjacent walls. That’s a pretty good description of it. The boulder hangs like it’s about to fall. Maybe it’s booby trapped by coyote waiting for roadrunner again. Nevertheless it’s an impressive piece of natural art.

    I sit here waiting for the sunlight and suddenly a burst of colour enters the chasm and a beam of light magically shoots down the walls filling the crevasse with energy. The intensity looks like fire or lava flow.

    After a while, I retrace my steps into the larger chasm to take shots of the sunlight beaming in from above which is equally impressive. Some things in life are temporary and fleeting so we all enjoy the moment with awe and humility.

    Well that experience alone was worth the dust and flies that we have endured to get here.

    Back in air conditioned luxury, Jen drives the 4WD out of the National Park and she quite enjoys the bumps and corner slides along the way leaving a trail of dust in her wake.

    Tyres pumped back up to pressure, we hit the bitumen once more and make haste to Kununurra.

    CAMP: Happy Valley Holiday Park, Kununurra / 2 nights     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Heli Flight over Bungle Bungles

    23 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We all must be super excited this morning as we quickly pack up camp and head down to the Aerodrome for a 7.00am scenic Heli flight over The Bungle Bungles. Heli Spirit is the company and we are greeted by Toby who takes us through a safety briefing. The helicopters have no doors on them so that’s a good start and Toby details the emergency evacuation plan if the Heli runs into strife, basically exit the Heli from the holes in the side of the cockpit where the doors used to be and run forwards not backwards otherwise you may impersonate a headless chook. All good.

    We need to do a pre fight, whoops sorry, I meant flight weigh in to ensure we achieve optimal weight distribution in the helicopters. As a 4 seater, Jen gets the cockpit seat and I balance everything out on the right hand side behind Tom, our pilot with a seat spare. The Lloyde’s have their own Heli and after a pre flight check, we have lift off.

    It’s an 18 minute flight taking in the Bungle Bungles and every moment is exhilarating. The morning sun is perfect as we have both light and shade on the beehives which dramatise the effect.

    Passing over Piccaninny Gorge, we look down to see a 300m deep gorge gouged out of the sandstone and snaking through the landscape.. The gorge is accessible only by an overnight hike from Piccaninny creek.

    The Heli flight follows the creek and we fly over Whip Snake Gorge and Cathedral Gorge for a spectacular aerial view. Tom, our pilot points out a large rock formation which looks like an amphitheatre or stadium, named The MCG by the locals. The pitch looks a bit bobbly for footy though...

    Back on terra firma, the Heli flight was a great way to put the Bungle Bungles into context. It’s vast and spectacular and to think this place was only discovered in 1983. Wow!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Piccaninny Creek to Whip Snake Gorge

    22 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    From The Window, we decide that we are up for the challenge of hiking further into The Bungle Bungles following Piccaninny Creek to Whip Snake Gorge. It’s an extra 2km but we have to factor a 5km return journey in the heat to The Bungle Bungles carpark so a 10km round trip in total.

    We traverse more eroded creek beds, sometimes stepping from rock slab to rock slab and sometimes working our way through deep, loose gravel or sinking sands under foot.

    Most of the walk is very open and sunny but we find jaw-droppingly beautiful scenery: domes and cliffs, chasms and dry rock pools.

    20 minutes further along into Piccaninny Creek, we are blessed with some shade and relief from the heat of the open creek beds as our footprints take us into Whip Snake Gorge. The gorge is narrow and at the right time of the day (this time of day) cool and shady.

    We follow a sandy pathway leading into the gorge and literally meandering like a snake as the walls of the gorge close in at every step. The hike ends at high vertical rock walls that show scars of cascading running waterfalls and the remnants of a waterfall pool beneath. It would be breathtaking to see the gorge in the wet season overflowing with an abundance of water and with it, life. There are still fantail palms flourishing even in the dry landscape protected by the cavernous shade giving walls of the gorge. Where does all the water go so quickly? Whip Snake Gorge is like a smaller Cathedral Gorge but I think it’s more spectacular, especially the walk in.

    After a good rest, it’s time to head back and it’s only 9.30am and the sun is blistering hot. The return journey always seems longer but I was super motivated as I remembered that I had taken a half pint of frozen milk out of the 12v fridge and left it in the car. Finally reaching salvation, I grab the now semi frozen milk, throw 2 teaspoons of coffee and one sugar into the container, shake it up violently and voila, a frothy iced coffee to replenish my sense.

    A siesta is beckoning for the afternoon so we all hibernate from the heat in our tents and try to stay cool as best we can.

    We are 1.5 hours behind the rest of Australia so the sun set comes around quickly, just after 4.30pm, yet at 3.30pm it can feel like the hottest part of the day. It’s cooling down a bit and myself and Jen run/walk the 1.5km to a sunset lookout whilst the Lloyde’s follow next to us in their car as support crew in the Tour De France.

    Sitting on top of Andrew’s 4WD watching the sun go down and the rock colours change on the horizon, there’s an APT tour bus next to us and the tourists are all taking photos of us taking photos of the sunset. Go figure, they haven’t seen a primate drinking Corona with a slice of lemon for a while and now’s their chance...

    The sunset is a bit underwhelming compared to the night before but still peaceful and dramatic.

    Back at camp, Jenny reckons that the flies disappear exactly at 5.23pm and they do. It’s a slightly cooler evening tonight so we all enjoy a sausages with tomato rice for dinner and sit back to review the day. This usually consists of us playing what sounds like “PONG” as we airdrop photos to each other like returning serve in a game of tennis.

    We each select our favourite photo and moment for the day and we’ve now invented a daily Russell Coight Moment (for those overseas, please google).

    I currently hold “The Russel Coight Trophy” for running over my camping supplies bags in the 4WD... doh!!!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    The Window to the WORLD

    22 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It’s day 2 in The Bungle Bungles and before the flies have chance to annoy us and before the sun gets too hot, we pack up our roof top tent and head into The Bungle Bungles again.

    Today we will follow Piccaninny Creek which this time of the year is a dry river bed comprising of pure fine sand, sandstone, boulders and smooth round pebbles and that have had thousands of years of water polishing. Often the sandstone has formed small crevasses or round holes in the river bed where pebbles have scoured and shaped the rock. Nature’s sandpaper at work.

    It’s late May and you can imagine the river flowing in the wet season forming spas and pools of fresh liquid water to bath in. Not today though, the rock is hot on foot and it reflects the heat of the easterly sun with some intensity. There’s little or no shade in the river bed even at 7.30am although the contrasting morning shadows and full sun on the Beehives are impressive.

    As part of the day’s adventure, we are hiking to one of the main attractions in the southern Purnululu National Park, a 3km walk to “The Window”.

    The Window is nature at its best which has calved and eroded an abstract oval shaped hole through one of the domes, a window to the world. The contrast of red ochre rock and deep blue sky creates a magnificently high definition photo that Posh and Becks would be proud of.

    The guys get a little creative with their pose from the opposite side of the window, the sun has that kind of affect out here... in fact, I think we have all gone a bit delusional from the heat as Jen takes off up Piccaninny Creek looking for the ice cream van!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    World Heritage Bungle Bungles

    21 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    in 1983, just 36 years ago, a local farmer took a Chanel 9 news reporter and film crew up in a helicopter over Purnululu to film a documentary about the area. Before then, The Bungle Bungles were one of the few undiscovered modern day places on the planet.

    The traditional owners of the area are the Karjaganujaru peoples who’s ancestors roamed this land and kept its secrets safe for 20,000 years or more. Other than the farmer and a few cattle musters, nobody knew the place existed. After the coverage went to air, The Bungle Bungles became a popular tourist destination and Purnululu became a national park in 1987. The area gained World Heritage status due to its outstanding universal heritage values.

    Known as The Beehives, The Bungle Bungle Range contains amazing black and orange beehive-shaped karst sandstone rising 250 metres tall.

    Before we drive off-road into World Heritage, we need to drop the tyre pressure on the 4WD. It will help with grip and give a smoother ride over the terrain. The creeks are dry so no crossing through water and we pass a tractor towing two huge tyres grading the track for the season, essentially ironing out the bumps and corrugations a bit.

    It’s easier than expected, a few bumps here and there and rocks to navigate but lots of fun.

    We drive to the Rangers Station, about 50km in, pick up our camping permits and carry on a further 12km to Walardi Campground. It’s not busy so we select a camping area to maximise shade and then head on out to The Bungle Bungles carpark, the start of the most popular southern walks.

    Today we follow the domes loop trail passing lots of colourful beehives to Cathedral Gorge, a natural red rock amphitheatre with amazing acoustics. The shear scale of the gorge is astounding and what’s left of a rock pool provides a reflection of the gorge entrance with brilliant blue sky above.

    We pause and reflect for a while.

    Having the rest of the day to kill, we stop at Elephant Rock on the way back to camp and spend the afternoon at camp fighting flies and finding shady spots away from the sun. It gets to 33 degrees by 9.00am and 35 degrees in late afternoon.

    I go to move the 4WD underneath a tall white gum tree to set up camp and manage to run over two of our camping supplies bags...! Thankfully nothing much damaged other than plastic containers. They didn’t tell me about those obstacles on our 4 wheel drive induction class.

    Theres a dry creek bed running next to camp and a great sunset viewing spot. The daylight disappears quickly. We are all very tired from an epic day and retire to bed not long after dinner.

    .     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Border Crossing Into Western Australia

    20 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    DRIVE: Keep River National Park to Bungle Bungles Caravan Park, Mable Downs Station via Lake Argyle and Kununurra (439km)

    I have never been to Western Australia, neither has Andrew so this is completely new territory. We arrive at the border to see a rather large and nice welcome sign just before we get to border security for the latex glove treatment... we have to declare anything at quarantine that is on the list including fruit and vegetables, honey, plants and 3 day old underwear... so reluctantly the two courgettes, half a lemon and a carrot come out of supplies and I hand them over. The underpants have been stashed and hidden so phew, got through clean... sorry, I meant soiled.

    To celebrate reaching the Western Australia border, we have a group shot just before border patrol and then hand in hand, myself and Andrew cross as we leave the girls in NT. Please don’t share the video as we both have family and our reputations to consider!

    Kununurra is literally just up the road so we divert to Lake Argyle. Lake Argyle is a man made lake
    Which covers an area 18 times the size of Sydney harbour, 1000 km2. At full flood level that area increases to 2100 km2. The main Ord River Dam, which holds back these huge amounts of water, is surprisingly small.

    The drive in is pretty spectacular and the red rocks surrounded by lush trees and spinifex is quintessentially Australia. As we turn a corner into Lake Argyle Caravan Park, we are pleasantly surprised by an elevated green oasis overlooking the dam. There’s even a magnificent infinity edge pool overlooking the lake and I can visualise us sitting in it watching sunset and cooling off with beer and champagne. Now that’s a thought too good to leave behind, so we decide to book in to the Caravan Park for a return visit in a few days. Why not, we may as well throw in the sunset cruise and make the most of our visit. Stay tuned for a photo of us in the pool then...

    The caravan park even has an air conditioned cafe with Internet (luxury) so we enjoy refreshing iced coffee and chocolate.

    As we still have a few hours of driving to go, we make headway to Kununurra to replenish Food and supplies and then take the highway towards The Bungle Bungles Caravan Park on the edge of Purnululu. We are i the famous Mable Downs country and its pretty rugged and dry out here. Now this is The Walshies and The Lloyde’s original rendezvous point but with plans changing, we have enjoyed a few extra days together. We stopped in a picnic bay on the side of the Hwy for an express lunch and the vegemite shows it’s worth. There’s a trailer section parked in the picnic area so we have some fun as it’s obviously punching above it’s weight... see pic.

    Hitting the road for the final push, we come around a sweeping bend and see an overturned truck on the side of the road with driver and police officer discussing the incident. Looks like the truck veered onto the other side of the road, corrected, then flipped, spinning 180 degrees over into the gravel.

    CAMP: Bungle Bungles Caravan Park, Mable Downs / 1 Night.
    We quickly set up on arrival at the caravan park as the sun is disappearing fast. I have a powered site and we share the power chord so everyone can charge up their essential electronic equipment over night.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Channel 40... kkkeeer... Copy That

    19 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Armed with Jaime’s walkie talkies that she got from Santa one Christmas when she was in grade 5, we tested them out with Andrew and Anne’s CB radio and they work a treat. So now we can communicate across cars whilst travelling on the road. You ripper...

    So Andrew, what channel mate... try Channel 40, it’s the truckie channel advises Andrew. Ok mate, no worries I reply. Give it a go then...

    Helo Walshies, do you copy?

    “Copy that.”

    Now that we are connected, we set off early and leave Timber Creek heading on the Victoria Hwy and towards Keep River National Park.

    DRIVE: Timber Creek to Keep River National Park (212km).

    A little down the road we hear kkkkerrrrrr... It’s Anne, “Jenny and Steve do you copy, can you hear me?”

    Jen grabs the walkie talkie and replies in her best Aussie voice “yeah, right back at ya”.

    The next minute, we get a hint or a request from Andrew to maybe change from channel 40 as a truckie is listening in and doesn’t appreciate the banter. It’s serious stuff this channel 40 so we switch to channel 28 instead and continue on in our larrikan ways.

    Our first stop of the day is a slight dirt road detour to the banks of Victoria River. It’s an amazing expanse of water and being tidal, it flows deep into the top end of Australia, home to the mighty salt water crocodile. I venture down to the river bank for a photo but stay clear of the edge.

    It’s not a long drive today and soon we cross Keep River which is completely dry. Reaching the turn off for Keep River National Park, it’s 30km of red dirt road to Jarmen Campground, our resting place for tonight.

    The Ranger Station is about a third of the way in so we have a quick pit stop. I find the toilet, it’s a rarity, a flushing one, and open the lid to find a large bright green frog bathing inside. Well a man’s got to pee and I was taught to always flush! Suddenly another darker frog appears from the u bend and both frogs are swimming against the tide. It’s that hot and dry that the frogs find refuge in any place with water.

    We navigate the remaining 20km to Jarmen leaving a trail of dust in our wake. On the way, we gather wood for a camp fire but it’s so hot, the idea of roasting marshmallows over hot coals soon becomes a distant thought.

    CAMP: Jarmen Campground, Keep River National Park / 1 Night.
    The campsite is a pretty spot protected by a large hill of red fiery rock on one side. There’s a couple of walks you can do from the campground, a 7km loop taking in Jarmen lookout or a 5.2km return journey to Aboriginal rock art at Nigli Gap.

    We hold off on a hike until 3.00pm and let it cool a little. Even then, when the sun appears from the clouds it’s oppressively hot as we start the hike to Nigli Gap. Following a red sandy track which was difficult to walk on, red dirt soon becomes darker grey on foot. At first the escarpment is clear with a few trees, but it’s soon replaced with giant wheat grasses, 8 foot high in places forming a guard of honour meandering through the landscape.

    Heading West, The Nigli Gap hike crosses a black soiled flood plain, then follows soft sedimentary sandstone honeycomb domes, conglomerate rock 300 million years in the making.

    Keep River National Park is known as The Mini Bungle Bungles as they form part of the same geological structure. The formations are the result of compressed sediment laid down from a primordial sea that once filled Australia’s inland basins. Impressive.

    Surrounded by tall lush Livistona palms, the vivid ocre honeycomb rocks are stunning and their depth and mood changes from the intensity of the sun as it lowers in the sky creating ever increasing shadows amongst the rocks.

    We finally reach Nigli Gap and view the aboriginal rock art at the base of an overhang, a snake, serpent, boomerang and an emu. There’s a little creek near the rock art so a few thousand years ago, this site was obviously selected as a seasonal oasis for an Aboriginal tribe. Just like Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, the aboriginals sought food, water, shelter and safety first and adapted to the seasons and the land.

    Finding shade, it’s welcome relief from the heat of the day. We are all pretty sweaty by now and drinking our water fast so we trudge back to camp for a well earned cold soda water and ginger beer.

    It’s another hot and humid night and our 12v fan is worth its weight in gold.

    What a magnificent day.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Sir Gregory on the Road to Timber Creek

    18 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    It’s a long Road to Timber Creek. We are excited though as this is the start of our 34 day road trip to Broome, Western Australia and today we finally catch up with The Lloyde’s.

    DRIVE: Darwin to Timber Creek via Katherine (603km).

    First things first, a trip to Safeway Supermarket to replenish our groceries and beer supplies.

    Now that we are fully loaded with food and supplies to last 6 months even though our Kimberley trip is just over a month, we leave Darwin on the Stuart Hwy and head back to Katherine passing the shredded tyre on the roadside we left behind on the way up.

    We go through the tiny town of Adelaide River and follow the Ghan railway line south. There’s a cool diesel locomotive at the side of the road, the shell of former Commonwealth Railways locomotive NSU 63.

     After 300km we reach Katherine and join the Victoria Hwy heading south west.

    This is Gregory National Park territory which is the second largest national park in the NT after Kakadu., with an area of 13,000 km2 or 1.3 million ha. In 2011, it was announced that the park would be dual-named "Judbarra" after the traditional owners for a period of ten years. Beginning in 2021, its official name will be Judbarra National Park.

    Now who is Gregory you may ask? Well Sir Augustus Charles Gregory was an English-born Australian explorer. In 1854 Gregory led an expedition to the interior starting at the estuary of The Victoria River. His party split up, with one group going up the river in a schooner, while Gregory led the other over the range. They were eventually reunited and established a camp 20 km west of Timber Creek.

    CAMP: Wirib Caravan Park and Store, Timber Creek / 1 Night
    So here we are at Timber Creek. It’s been a minor expedition to get here. I go to check in at reception and the managers tell me that there’s no room left... wait a minute, that can’t be right, we’re in the middle of nowhere. Of course they are pulling my leg and The Lloyd’s had pre-empted our arrival and told the owners not to let us in. Anne has even described me as the bloke with the white tee shirt and low and behold, I turned up with a white tee shirt on.

    After a laugh with the owners, I asked for a powered site as far away from The Lloyde’s as possible and the owners say, not a problem, it’s free tonight anyhow. That great I replied, how much do I owe you... no... it’s free. Bargain I say. Just need to promote them on my blog so here goes...

    Especially for my English followers, if you happen to be in the middle of a remote desert, miles from civilisation and wanting somewhere to stay, stay at The Wirib Caravan Park and Store, Timber Creek. They have crocodiles in their creek and feeding is at 5.15 so make it snappy.

    It’s so good to finally catch up with Andrew and Anne. The park is lush and they are set up in the shadows of a giant Boab tree with fruit the size of coconuts.

    We park up adjacent and make sure our camping setup doesn’t cross the line into theirs... it’s a bit like the beach scene in Madagascar (1) but ours is the fun side of the island for sure. Finally The Lloyde’s invite us to their side of the island and we cross the line.

    Metres away are three fresh water crocodiles lying on the bank of the creek. The owners say they can be aggressive so distance is good. The crocs get their daily ration of meat and just like us, settle in for a long hot night.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderKimberley 4WD AdventurePodróżnik

    Start of Kimberleys 4WD Adventure

    17 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After 5 luxurious days back home in Melbourne, we flew back into Darwin for the start of our Kimberleys 4 Wheel Drive Adventure.

    The flight landing was slightly delayed coming into Darwin as those American fighter jets have been hogging the runway and the airspace. I’ve seen Topgun and I was sure they got Friday’s off. I think Maverick keeps doing a go around...

    Feet firmly in Northern Territory again, we collect the Kluger from airport parking and drive a short distance to our pick up location for the 4WD.

    We have hired from a company called Australian 4WD Adventures. They pretty much have hire locations all around Australia and specialise in off road vehicles and camping equipment which can manage the rugged terrain of the outback and beyond.

    Our vehicle is a Toyota Prado Bush Camper Large with a Roof Top Tent and we have it for 34 days. Jenny specifically requested a roof top tent as she believes crocodiles can’t climb ladders so it’s our safest bet for surviving a night’s sleep.

    The Lloyde’s, Andrew and Anne who have been travelling up from Melbourne for our rendezvous have a specked our Toyota Prado including a motorised winch so we will be in good company if we get bogged. They have passed through Katherine and are now at a place called Timber Creek feeding crocodiles so we are not too far behind and catching up quickly.

    Our 4WD comes with a 12v fridge/freezer, camping table and chairs, gas stove, fuel and water containers. The vehicle itself runs on diesel and has a long range tank capable of 100km on one tank. Not looking forward to refilling the beast. I estimate we will be doing 5,000km+ on this trip from Darwin to Broome following the Gibb River Road so I will be siphoning fuel at any opportunity...! Pitty Andrew’s is on petrol...

    In addition to the equipment supplied, we have packed all our essential camping gear from our campervan; pots and pans, cutlery, torches, 12v fan, bedding, general supplies, clothing and food.

    As the 4WD has a roof top tent with a double mattress, we have gone to the effort of making sure it’s a comfortable as possible. So after reading the Australian 4WD blog, I came across an idea to use a memory foam mattress topper for a comfy nights sleep. I am lay on it as I type this footprint and it really makes a difference. We also ditched the sleeping bags for this trip and have a doona, pillows and sheets instead. I know, we have glampped it up a bit (is that even a word) but it will be worth the while for a good night’s sleep.

    It’s very humid in Darwin tonight so the little 12v fan is doing its best to cool us off a bit.

    CAMP: Discovery Caravan Park Darwin / 1 Night.
    We are back at Discovery Caravan Park Darwin for one night so that we can test setting up all the equipment before venturing too far. It’s been our first set up of the roof top tent and its super quick and easy. Jen has been nominated as roof top tent technician and I a in charge of packing and camp set up.

    So up the ladder we go to our retreat in the sky. Shut that fly net Jen barks, the mozzies are knocking at the door waiting to get in.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik
    Lucy is 2nd from left

    Darwin & the Royal Flying Doctor Service

    11 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Have you ever looked closely at a $20 note? Can you see a picture of a human torso with numbers on it? Way back in the 1950s, Nurse Lucy Garlick developed the body chart to help doctors diagnose the illnesses of patients living in the Kimberleys. This chart consisted of torso parts labelled with numbers (front) & letters (back). Communication between doctor and patient was via radio with the patient identifying the part of their body where the pain/injury was and the doctor prescribing the relevant numbered/lettered medicine from the medical chests that had been placed on all the stations. This very same body chart is still in use today and was immortalised on the $20 note in 1994.

    Next to the body chart on the note is John Flynn, the founder of what was first known as the Australian Inland Mission, and is now known as the Royal Flying Doctor Service after the Queen (that would be the one we still have now) recognised the service by allowing Royal to be put in front of the FDS in the 50s. When the RFDS first started in Conclurry, QLD in 1936, they did not own any planes; they leased them from Qantas for 2 shillings per mile flown. They also had only one pilot and two doctors. Now they own 61 planes and employ 146 pilots. They flew 26,863,558 kilometres last year; that’s the equivalent of 34 trips to the moon and back, or more than 600 flights around the Earth!! They provide acute and preventative health care to 278,000 Australians living in remote and rural regions, covering 80% of our total land mass; that’s a patient every 2 minutes. Amazing...

    Having now driven through outback Queensland and parts of the Northern Territory, we have a greater appreciation for just how self-reliant and resourceful the people living and working in remote Australia have to be, and just how vital the RFDS is to them being able to stay on the land.

    This is our final full day in Darwin before we fly home to Melbourne tomorrow for a few days. Don’t worry, we will be back to Darwin on Friday 17th May to start our 4 wheel drive adventure of the Kimberley’s so you can pick up our footprints then.

    It will be nice to spend a few days with home comforts and spend time with Jaime.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik

    The Bombing of Darwin

    10 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    How is it that we never learned in school that Darwin was bombed over 60 times in WWII??!! Today we visited an exhibition on Stokes Hill Wharf that brilliantly described the events of 19th February 1942 when Darwin was devastated by two Japanese bombing raids. Through very clever virtual reality and holograms we experienced just what it was like on that day. It was so realistic that one poor little girl started crying as the bombs exploded. Over 235 people - allied personnel & civilians - died, with more than 300 injured. 10 weeks earlier the same Japanese bombers had attacked Pearl Harbour, and 4 days earlier, Singapore. Their purpose for bombing Darwin - to keep the Australian troops in Australia and out of the fight for the Pacific.

    Now, we’ve seen the film ‘Australia’ (yes, that’s the one with Hugh and Nicole) but I thought they were taking some artistic licence with the facts. Not so, it would seem.

    With virtual reality headsets on, we spent a very realistic 8 minutes experiencing the war from the first bombs to the shooting down of “Mac” in one of the ten US Kitty Hawks (that’s how many planes were in the air to defend us!) to the final explosion of Neptuna at the Darwin wharf that rained down hot metal and shrapnel over the harbour. Treading water in that harbour was Etheridge Grant (US Commander of the “Willie B”) who had been trying to get back to his ship. His story was told through a hologram ‘movie’ which was amazing.

    With Britain engaged in defending Singapore and fighting in Europe, it was the US who came to our aid. Darwin was, & still is, important to them as a strategic base for the south-east Pacific. In fact, we’ve been able to sit in our comfy camping chairs at the campervan and have our very own personal air show. The US Marines are here at the moment for some exercises, along with six of their F-15C fighter jets. They were buzzing around us for a couple of hours this morning. Very exciting when it’s peacetime!!

    Following the bombing of Darwin, most people were moved to Adelaide River or Alice Springs. As you come in along the Stuart Highway to Darwin you pass a number of WWII airstrips alongside the road which were created after the RAAF base was destroyed and activity moved inland to try to limit any further damage.

    Poor Darwin - destroyed by bombs in 1942 & flattened by Cyclone Tracey on Christmas Eve 1975.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik
    Want to buy a used tyre?

    Tyre Blowout on The Way to Darwin

    9 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    30km north of Katherine, we drive over a crest and hear a sudden metallic noise coming from the campervan. I pull over straight away as the left hand tire has blown out on the campervan.

    We are fine and the Kluger was as solid as a rock as I steered it and the campervan to a grinding halt on the side of the Stuart Highway.

    On assessing the damage, basically the remains of a shredded tyre on the wheel rim, we contemplate our next move. Less than 2 minutes later, a police patrol car, an unmarked police car and a semi vehicle driver had pulled up to come to our aid. Two uniformed police got out of the patrol car followed by two plain clothed policemen in the other (they were the drug squad).

    We had stopped part on the side of the highway and the left hand side of the campervan was lower in the gravel. A normal jack was useless so the semi trailer driver, (his name was Tom Pearson) rendered assistance with a trolley jack whilst one of the police officers was slowing traffic. I bumped my head trying to get the spare tyre off the back of the campervan and then decided to leave it to the professionals.

    Myself and Jen relieved, stood back as Tom and the police attended to the campervan like a precision formula 1 team changing a tyre in a pit stop. You could tell they do this as routine as they have all the tools at hand and the police seemed quite excited to have a job to do. We are thankful for their assistance as we could have been more remote but other truckies would have stopped to help.

    The spare tyre has been a spare for 12 years since the campervan was new as we had never needed to use it so the senior police officer suggested we duck back to Katherine as there is a tyre place in town and get a refit.

    After shaking hands and thanking everyone, especially Tom Pearson, the truckie, the police guarded the highway as we did a u turn and headed the 30km back to Katherine. Beaurepairs Tyres was across the bridge leading into Katherine. We pulled up and the guys immediately jacked the campervan up on both sides and replaced all tyres including the spare whilst we had a pie for lunch. Bonza!

    Our itinerary brings us through Katherine 2 more times so you will get to hear about our visit to Katherine Gorge then. If you check out our footprints map and zoom in a bit, you can see where we had blown the tyre and stopped 30km out of Katherine and U turned to head back..

    Back on track, it’s been an eventful start to the day and we continued the remaining 270km up the Stuart Highway to our destination, Darwin.

    So after 3,000km, we have made it to Darwin and the Discovery Caravan Park. You Beauty, right next to the airport and fighter jets are taking off in pursuit of each other. There’s War Games being conducted in Darwin jointly with the Australian and American armed forces.

    There’s time to rest for a couple of days and explore Darwin before we fly back to Melbourne on Sunday for 5 days. It will be nice to be home but it’s a flying visit as we will be back up next week to start our 35 day Kimberley 4WD Adventure from Darwin to Broome. Our friends, The Lloyde’s, Andrew and Anne left Melbourne last week in their 4WD and are travelling up through the centre of Australia for our rendezvous at The Bungle Bungles on Monday 20th May.

    DRIVE: Mataranka to Darwin via Katherine (twice), (444km).

    CAMP: Discovery Holiday Parks, Darwin / 3 nights.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik
    1

    Mataranka Bitter Springs

    8 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Jen reminds me that we have gained half an hour since entering the Northern Territory. With driving the long distances over the last few days, we are into a habit of waking up early and hitting the road to make the most of the day. So half an hour extra is greatly appreciated as we will gain that at the other end.

    DRIVE: Banka Banka Station NT to Mataranka (466km).

    Heading north up the Stuart Hwy, we leave Banka Banka Station and the flies to make tracks to Makaranka. The journey is uneventful and as we make our final petrol stop at Elliott, we calculate just enough fuel in the tank to complete the remaining kilometres. Don’t worry, we have reserve fuel in the red jerry can on the back of the campervan so that we don’t end up remote, lost and forgotten like the car we passed on the way up (see pic).

    There’s a strong head wind so fuel consumption is up and we are close to our limit. To break the journey, we adjust the speed of the car to maintain 2,000 revs and better fuel consumption and see if we can make it to Mataranka. I know, boring isn’t it but it kept us focussed and entertained for a while. I crawled in to Mataranka at 100km/hr with 30km of fuel to spare.

    Another tactic to keep us alert and occupied is provided by the termite mounds and the creativity of travellers. Now we have passed thousands of termite mounds on our travels through red country. You can see them on the side of the highway in all shapes and sizes looking like proud statues or knights on a chessboard.

    One day, someone was passing and decided to stop and dress a termite mound with a tee shirt. From that day on there was a tipping point, the idea caught on and literally everyone is getting their kit off and dressing up the mounds. As far as the eye can see we view termite mounds dressed in tee shirts, undies, knickers, bras and hats. One was even dressed up with a full miners outfit on.

    It’s fun but I am too precious with my t shirts to sacrifice one...

    CAMP: Mataranka Cabins and Camping. 1 Night.

    Arriving at Mataranka on midday, we set up camp and head to Bitter Springs about 1km away. It’s an amazing place, a freshwater spring oasis in the middle of outback Australia with lush palms, tropical plants and exotic lillies floating on the bright clear aqua water. It’s totally FREE and a paradise on earth.

    The spring has been created from cracks in the rock formations below which holds the Great Artesian Basin, a massive expanse of underground water.

    The Great Artesian Basin is one of the largest underground fresh-water reservoirs in the world. It underlies approximately 22% of Australia, occupying an area of over 1.7 million square kilometres beneath the arid and semi-arid parts of Queensland, New South Wales, South Australia and the Northern Territory.

    Although not a spa, the water in the Bitter Springs is a pleasant 30-32 degrees which is about the temperature of the day. So sliding into this oasis is as refreshing and invigorating as it gets. There’s a gentle current which slowly draws you downstream floating for 80m. It’s time to look to the vivid blue skies and the lush palm trees and take it all in.

    Fresh water Crocodiles have been occasionally spotted in the springs and as you float downstream, you often touch the odd tree branch or underwater log which may stir the senses a bit.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik

    Cross Border NT & Banka Banka Stn.

    7 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Reaching the outskirts of Mt Isa, the terrain becomes sparse and the road is needle straight disappearing on the horizon. We can see the curvature of the earth as we look out for miles ahead, nothing but road, red dirt and scrub. We see our first speed limit sign at 130km hour but settle on 115/hr. If you want fuel economy, 100km/hr is the benchmark and that’s what the Grey Nomads drive at but it’s a compromise I guess and we just wanted to do the distance in a fair time.

    Regardless, It’s another long day in the saddle and a couple of petrol stops on the way after filling up in Mt Isa, Barkly Homestead ($1.97 per litre) and Threeways Roadhouse ($1.86 per litre).

    After Leaving the coast and following The Overland Way, we finally have to stop at a T-Intersection to get onto the Stuart Hwy. Remarkable, that shows you what A to B can look like in outback Australia. Threeways Roadhouse is on the junction and Tenants Creek is a few km south of the junction. We head north for a further 70km to Banka Banka Station, a remote old cattle station which provides camping and caravan sites. There’s a bell to ring at the reception gate but the dog beats us to it and stirs the owner. The earth and dust is red with mature Boab trees providing some shade and the sun is starting to create long shadows across the station.

    CAMP: Banka Banka Station, NT / 1 night

    We pay our $20 for the night, no electricity but spring water and toilets/showers and begin to set up the campervan. The flies here are everywhere and lots of them so this is officially the quickest set up of the campervan on record. Get it up, get in...!

    After killing the dozen flies that managed to get in, Jenny goes to the car and produces her hair & face fly net, (see pics). I laugh histerically ( more at myself really) as Jen reminds me that I laughed off her purchase of one at the Boating, Camping and Fishing store saying, “I don’t need one, they look stupid”.

    She rubs it in and ventures out of the Campervan to test her superhero strength, “Anti Fly Force Field”. Well it works for your head and face but they still attack your arms and legs.

    I step out and get covered immediately but my secret weapon is speed. I run like the wind away from the flies, stop and enjoy freedom... for 3 seconds at least. The flies have followed of course and are even more content now I have a sweat on...!

    Jenny (1) Steve (0)

    We walk up to a lookout hill just on sunset and capture the changing colours over Banka Banka Station. It’s peaceful and stunning as light shadows replace dark and red dirt becomes deep plum.

    Still being stalked, I improvise with a metal hub to escape the flies but this intensifies them around me like a beacon... I even sent signals to other galaxies... doh!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik

    Road Trains & the Mining Town of Mt Isa

    6 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It’s a public holiday today in Queensland and with an early start, we drive down Charters Towers Main Street in search of food. Dead as a door nail, not a squeak to be heard, ghost town, zombie apocalypse until... aha, MCDONALDS.

    Apart from petrol stations and we are over their food selection, the only place in town open seems to be Maccas. Breakfast to go it is then and we hit the road, destination Mt Isa.

    DRIVE: Charters Towers to Mt Isa (769km).

    It’s a long drive today which will take us 8 hours. We share the drive as usual with me holding the steering wheel and Jen’s foot on the gas peddle...

    The speed limit is 110km/hr but there’s a 3 semi trailer length road train in front doing 80 and 2 cars behind it unwilling to overtake. So we are stuck for a while. This doesn’t stop two road trains on route to Mt Isa behind us blazing past everyone in the right hand lane. Their overtaking manoeuvre to pass vehicles was the length of a football pitch and they completed it after travelling about 5 football pitches but they can see the road is clear ahead for miles.

    Finally, we reach a passing lane and we’re able to cruise on past the cars and the slow moving road train to continue our journey. On the long trip to Mt Isa, we had to pass and overtake about 10 road trains. The drivers usually signal the coast is clear by using their right indicator and we make sure we have a good scope of the horizon and we pass as quickly as we can.

    We pass through Hughenden, Richmond, Julia Creek and Cloncurry with only Richmond barely having any sign of life.

    After 363km we reach Richmond. It’s famous for dinosaur discoveries and has a museum with many fossils from the local area on display. I get caught by a Kronosaurus with teeth the size of bananas.

    We forgot, it’s a public holiday so no cafes or bakeries open so we share a packet of caramel popcorn for lunch on the go.

    Reaching Mt Isa at 4.30pm, we find a caravan park for the night..

    CAMP: Discovery Park Mt Isa / 1 night

    Starving, it’s life or death. They say man can survive without food for a good while but not water. Our tummy’s were saying otherwise so we head up to the Rodeo Bar & Grill, Mt Isa Hotel. We take a short detour on the way and drive up to the lookout at Mt Isa to see the signpost with the directions of all major city’s around the world. Melbourne is 2008km due south from here. London is 15,274km.

    Beautiful rib eye steaks on the menu and the place was buzzing with every resident in town eating out tonight . Oh look, the National ten pin bowling championships are on in Mt Isa and they have all just arrived with their bright baggy bowling shirts and they pile into the restaurant. Good job we had our caveman instincts switch on to survival mode as were were practically first in the queue to place our order for steaks as the clock ticked one second past 6 o’clock.

    We needed meat and protein and like cavemen & women do, we devoured our meal, went back to our cave and fell fast asleep.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Walshies Down UnderPort Douglas to DarwinPodróżnik
    1

    Port to Charters Towers

    5 maja 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It’s a magnificent morning in Port Douglas. The sky is vivid blue and the sun is beaming as we prepare to head off on the start of another adventure. We have 5 days to do the 3.000km from Port Douglas to Darwin. Our first stop is Cairns Airport as we drop Jaime off to return to Melbourne.

    DRIVE: Port Douglas to Charter Towers (546km)

    Skirting around Cairns again, we pass “Walshies Pyramid” and it’s truly an honour that the locals named the mountain top in recognition of our Walshies Down Under Adventure. Walshies Pyramid hosts an annual 6km hike/run to the top and back.

    There are a number of routes you can take to get across from FNQ, Far North Queensland coastline to Darwin. The. Savannah Way is the most scenic and famous but sections are unsealed and prone to flooding. We opt to retrace our footprints back down to Townsville and cut inland on the A6, Flinders Way (The Overlanders) to a small mining town called Charters Towers.

    The Main Street of Charters Towers is full of heritage buildings from the 1880’s. As often the case, there’s a pub/hotel on every corner and the Town Hall and the Bank display Victorian architecture at its finest showing that historically the town was a thriving and prosperous place to settle.

    The town was founded in the 1870s when gold was discovered by chance at Towers Hill on Christmas Eve 1871 by 12-year-old Aboriginal boy. The name Charters Towers comes from the conical shaped hills in the vicinity of the gold discoveries.

    Prospectors settled the land on the promise of making their fortunes digging and mining for gold and a gold rush began.

    Now as an advertiser and entrepreneur, I know that when gold is mentioned, men stop at nothing to seek their fortune but few men did. Some of the folk who made good money from the gold rush made and sold the gold pans and other equipment. After all, when panning for gold, you need a pan to do it and one of the secrets to advertising is “always sell a promise” or in simple terms, “hope”.

    Such were the boom years, between 1872 and 1899, that Charters Towers hosted its own stock exchange. The Great Northern railway between Charters Towers and the coastal port of Townsville was completed in December 1882.. During this period, the population was approximately 30,000.

    The city was also affectionately known as 'The World' as it was said that anything one might desire could be had in the 'Towers', leaving no reason to travel elsewhere.     Czytaj więcej

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