4 lipca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
In 1990, computer scientist Tim Berners-Lee invented the World Wide Web we depend on today. Before then, back in 1876 Alexander Graham Bell was controversially credited with inventing the first practical telephone and indeed, he made the first call.
Further back, when Samuel Morse invented Morse Code in 1838, he created a revolution in communication and the electric telegraph was born. So why is this important?
Well before we get to that, as I type on my mobile keyboard, tap, tap, tap, I realise that modern communication has largely gone from Morse Code, tap, tap, tap to, amazing, we can actually speak to someone on the other end of a line, then we went back to tap, tap, tap and our use of txting. Have we really made any progress since the telegraph. After all, I could equally order a pizza with a telegraph as i could with a txt... It was the global internet of the early 19th century.
So this info is important because we are in Alice Springs and at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, historically the most central communication hub between Adelaide and Darwin and indeed the whole of Australia. The station here is one of four remaining Telegraph Stations, another of which we had visited in Barrow Creek on the way to Alice. Alice Springs connected Adelaide to Darwin and the rest of the world.
Australia’s first telegraph line was erected in 1854 between Melbourne and Port Melbourne. In 1862 John McDouall Stuart successfully crossed the continent and pathed the way for a telegraph line. Australia’s isolation from the rest of the world ended in 1871 when a cable was laid across the Indian Ocean to the North Coast and this created the urgency to connect Adelaide to Darwin via a single 3000km Overland Telegraph Line (OT line).
Charles Todd, South Australian superintendent of telegraphs masterminded the work to be done in three sections, North, South and Central. Given such remote and harsh country to navigate, the OT line was miraculously completed for the start of 1872, pioneering the way to a. new frontier.
The first telegraph from Alice Springs to Adelaide was sent on 3rd January 1872. It carried the somber news that CW Craegan had died from thirst 100km down the line in the December heat. He had been travelling to Alice Springs to take up the position of Stationmaster.
Originally the township of Stuart, Alice is named after the wife of the now (Sir) Charles Todd and the telegraph station is located by a waterhole, hence, Alice Springs.
So as we explore the history in the telegraph station, I decide to test my theory and order a pizza using morse code. Here it is.
P. I. Z. Z. A
. —- —- . . —- —- .. —- —- .. . —-
ok so it took me a while and i haven’t even added my delivery address yet. Give up, We grab a coffee instead at the Telegraph Cafe and I “tap” my credit card just the once.
Now Alice Springs has lots of things to do and explore but as we are in slow down mode, we just choose a couple, The art gallery and Alice Springs Aviation Museum are across the road so we go visit them. However, I am excited as this afternoon, The Ghan train is coming into town from Adelaide. I enthusiastically grab Jen and we make our way to the train station an hour before arrival... ok, maybe a bit too enthusiastic, and we wait for the Ghan to arrive.
The Ghan Railway was originally called the Afghan Express after the 19th century Afgan camel riders who helped explore outback Australia.
Its long, very long and slowly sweeps around the corner on the train track into the station. If i were at the back of the train, i’d be ordering an Uber to get me up to the station platform... it’s that long. The Ghan is going north to Darwin, to the warmth we have left behind and Jen looks tempted to board as Alice is a bit cold for her. I then commence to tie her to the train tracks! Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryAlice SpringsConnellan23°46’58” S 133°54’51” E
3 lipca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
The best thing about travelling is when we get to make new footprints, explore places that we have never been before and find something unique along the way.
Meet Brolga, a 6 foot 7 inch gentle giant who looks a bit like Indiana Jones. Originally from Western Australia, Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns’ life changed as a tour guide many years ago when he found a dead female red kangaroo on the side of the road and in its pouch was a baby Joey still alive.
Brolga took the Joey and wrapped it up in a pillow case. The baby kangaroo would have died without its mum so Brolga spent the next 24 hours with little sleep, hugging the joey in the made up pouch close to his chest for warmth and feeding it to keep the Joey alive..
From that day, Brolga’s destiny had changed and he had a mission to save and care for injured or orphaned kangaroos to one day hopefully release them back into the wild. Basically Brolga is a kangaroo mum and he has reared and raised hundreds of orphan baby kangaroos since that first precious encounter.
So in 2005, he created a baby kangaroo rescue centre here in Alice Springs and started saving little orphans. In 2011 he set up a 188 acre kangaroo sanctuary in added Central Australia’s first kangaroo rescue centre in 2015.
The rescue centre’s motto is “Animals Come First” and he personally runs kangaroo sanctuary sunset tours Tuesday to Friday so we feel really privileged to enjoy this experience tonight.
Now Brolga is a very kind and generous man and he believes that the only way to inspire and educate others about his mission is to be hands on and experience holding a Joey for ourselves. At that point, Jen melts and gets excited at the prospect of holding a baby kangaroo.
So now meet Foxy and Chester “so cute”. The orphans are 14 months old Red Kangaroos which are common in central Australia. At this age, they still need constant attention so over in the baby kangaroo rescue centre, there’s currently 10 joeys needing 24 hour care and Brolga does the night shift Monday to Friday with help during the day and weekends.
Baby kangaroos get stressed if they are separated from their mum or away from other kangaroos for a period of time so they need mates. Jen is the perfect mate.
Jen waits her turn as Brolga leads us through the sanctuary with kangaroo feed to meet his other kangaroos, each one friendly, soft and gentle. Each Kangaroo has a name and Brolga knows each one even from a distance.
Brolga explains that the sanctuary is only for those red kangaroos that can’t be released into the wild due to injuries, age or the fact that they love humans too much and have lost their survival instinct. So the sanctuary is for a minority including baby orphan kangaroos as most kangaroos are eventually released back into the wild. He currently has 56 kangaroos and the 10 Joeys.
Most importantly, Brolga explains that if you see a dead kangaroo at the side of the road, there’s a chance that there may be a live joey still inside, waiting to be rescued. Not many folk know this and we usually pass by without a thought. Due to the mother’s strong muscles lining her pouch, it protects the joey from bouncing out from an impact, often even if the roo has been hit by a car.
So stop and check and if you find a baby kangaroo inside a pouch, grab a pillow case, be it’s mum and look after it until you can get it to a rescue centre.
It’s Jen’s turn to hold Foxy. He’s tiny and still weighs very little so she cuddles him close. Quietly, I think they are both keeping each other warm. I get a turn and the joey gives me a kiss cos i’m obviously the favourite...
As we walk some more we stop at a gravesite and memorial for Brolgas favourite and most infamous kangaroo, Roger (2006-2018). Roger was a giant male red kangaroo and leader of the mob. He was as tall, if not slightly taller than Brolga at 6ft 7’ when upright which caused a problem. Being the dominant male kangaroo, Roger always considered Brolga competition and a threat so was always ambushing him, fighting and chasing him around the reserve.
Roger had exceptional muscle definition. He was strong enough to crush an ice bucket and was a black belt kick boxer with a fearsome kick. In fact, the International Body Building Championship sent Roger a certificate and gold medal for his amazing physique. His image is famous around the world and even today he features on many a product advertisement for which the kangaroo sanctuary receives royalty’s from.
In 2013, a documentary called Kangaroo Dundee was made by BBC UK / National Geographic USA and follows the interesting lives of the mob of rescue kangaroos and other wildlife. The documentary is shown in over 90 countries and a great way to promote wildlife conservation.
https://kangaroosanctuary.com/about/brolga-kang…
Nearing the end of our 2 hour tour, it’s time to hand back the baby kangaroos who have been passed on for everyone in the group to cuddle. Well guess who’s holding little Baby Chester to the very end. Of course it’s Jen and she reluctantly hands him back to Brolga as we get on the tour bus back to Alice Springs town centre.
Well i think she gave him back. what’s that bump in the front of Jen’s jacket. Didn’t notice that before... Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryAlice SpringsGillenFrank Mcellister Community Park23°41’59” S 133°51’43” E
2 lipca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
Daylight returns so i go sit on a rock overlooking the Devils Marbles and the camp ground and wait for the sun to rise. it’s cold this morning and not what we are used to. The sun is dragging its heals a bit so I climb back down and go make myself a coffee and return with warmer hands.
I am just after a good shot of the line of caravans with the backdrop of the marbles. The sun finally rises and instantaneously, the Devils Marbles waken and light up.
Within minutes, the people down below in their caravans rise too and reappear and one by one start packing up and moving on. This place is like a daily tidal movement, it floods caravans in the mid afternoon, then by the next morning, the tide goes out and there’s practically no one left.
We hang around a little as we have 414km to go to reach Alice Springs so no rush this morning.
DRIVE: Devils Marbles to Alice Springs (414km).
As often is the case, we stop off on route, usually at a roadhouse to top up on fuel. The total length of the Stuart Highway is just over 2,800km from Port Augusta to Darwin and roughly follows John McDouall Sturt’s route when he travelled across the continent in 1860s. So the roadhouses are an important break and are often a bit quirky to entice you off the road.
Barrow Creek is one of four remaining telegraph stations in Australia and an important part of Australia’s pioneering history. (see tomorrow’s footprint to learn about the telegraph). Jen takes a peak inside the station whilst I fill up with fuel at the Barrow Creek pub (where else?). A sign says “please pay for fuel at the bar”. Being midday, it’s quiet at the bar but they have a good little business going on. Wall to wall there are money notes of all currency and denomination, each one signed by their previous owner and pinned up on the walls. Some go back years and some are recent currency and there’s a fair bit of Aussie dollar in there too. I have no cash of my own and ask if they take credit card for the fuel. All good.
Further down the track, we see a sign for Aileron Roadhouse. Aileron is about 150km north of Alice Springs and includes a roadhouse, accommodation and an art gallery, but these features are completely overshadowed by two massive statues.
High on the hill behind the roadhouse is the first of two giant statues next to a Hollywood style sign for AILERON. The Anmatjere Man, or Big Aboriginal stands 17 meters tall and weighs about 8 tonnes. The Anmatjere Woman And Child stands to the side of the roadhouse and equally impressive.
With 150km to go to Alice Springs, i look on the sat nav and basically see two straight road lines with one gentle curve in between. Its the home straight but the road goes monotonously on and on and it just gets lost on the horizon until finally we see a sign for Alice. I am looking at the fuel gauge and it’s going down whilst Jen is looking at the temperature gauge and well, it’s going down too and it didn’t get over 23 degrees today even though the sun was beaming and the skies were a flawless blue.
CAMP: Alice Springs Holiday Park / 3 Nights
We are well on track so will take a break for a few days in Alice before pushing on to Uluru (Ayres Rock). There’s lots to explore in Alice Springs and The Ghan comes in at the railway station on Thursday so looking forward to that.
Jen has every item of clothing on including her beanie and i make hot water bottles for bedtime as tonight the temperature will drop to three degrees. Brrrrrrrr! Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryDevils Marbles20°34’5” S 134°15’51” E
1 lipca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We’ve packed up super early this morning from Katherine Gorge and hit the road to make some distance. Our original plan was to split the distance to Alice Springs and stay at Banka Banka Station tonight, a 602km drive. We stayed at Banka Banka on the way up in May and got eaten by flies. Remember Jen wearing her fly and mozzie net over her head and face. So we decide to keep going and give the aeroguard a rest.
DRIVE: Katherine Gorge to The Devils Marbles (798km).
We push on to reach The Devils Marbles about 100km south of Tennant Creek to see sunset and wake up to a colourful sunrise. So our distance is 800km door to door inclusive of a 2km detour. Its dead quiet for traffic heading our way south and busy with a procession of migrating caravans heading north for the warmth. People look at us as if we are mad, travelling south at this time of the year, you’ve lost ya marbles... i just thought of that one so snook it in.
On our way, we stop at Daly Waters, a famous pub just off the Stuart Highway (2km), a couple of hours south of Katherine. It’s a crazy place with trophy bras draping everywhere, thongs hanging from rope lines, tee shirts, hats, old car number plates, you name it, people have likely left it here. What is it with human behaviour? I think the aliens saw this place and decided to hyperspace the hell out of here... It quite a fun place actually if you like that sort of thing. There’s interesting people from all walks of life who come here to stay in the caravan park just for the pub. Check out the petrol station across the road from the pub.
We order a refreshment at the bar, drink it quick like and hyperspace the hell out of here. (not great English on porpoise, it sets the scene well).
There’s plenty of petrol stops every 150-200km on our way south so we fuel up when we need it.
We pass Banka Banka Station which looks busy, then Three Ways intersection and find ourselves on unchartered bitumen and 30km to Tennant Creek. Rumour has it that Tennant Creek is the only place in Australia where it’s advised to leave ya engine running whilst filling up with petrol? So we fill up and get the hell out a there too.
CAMP: The Devils Marbles / 1 Night
Another 113km of lazer straight road and we arrive at The Devils Marbles and roll in at 4.45pm, an hour and a bit before sunset. There’s a camping site here, a place to stop over for the night and well, everyone’s stopping over. it’s more like a parking lot and the place is jam packed with caravans, tents and even people sleeping on the dirt and gravel. I know it’s a bit late but there must be a spot for us. We drive a loop and it looks grim, then i spot a narrow slot between a few dividing posts and a caravan. Basically we have squeezed in on a spot that has a fire pit in it and we are parked right next to the fire pit. Hope no one starts a fire here tonight otherwise we will be up in smoke.
The Devils Marbles are a collection of huge, red, rounded granite boulders. This place is quite surreal and out of this world. The boulders have been calved by nature over millions of years into hundreds of roundish marbles 360 degrees as far as the eye can see. it’s a magical backdrop for a setting sun and the shadows and colours amongst the marbles create quite an atmosphere. The sky is devoid of clouds, just fading blue sky, dark red rock, green spinifex and a falling orange sun.
This is a sacred Aboriginal site known by the local Warumungu Aboriginals as Karlu Karlu and there are many culturally sensitive areas in and around what we call the Devils Marbles.
So why the Devils Marbles?. Well the marble bit is straight forward as the ancient round granite rocks look like marbles, but the devil... The origin of the English name for the boulders is the following quote:
This is the Devil’s country; he’s even emptied his bag of marbles around the place! - John Ross, Australian Overland Telegraph Line expedition, 1870. Devils Marbles it is then.
We take a walk and follow many a well trodden path that leads through the marbles. Some of the landscape is easy to climb up on for a better vantage point offering spectacular views.
Another great sunset to cherish as we watch the marbles turn from warm ocre to dark red, then black.
It’s time for dinner. The campsite doesn’t have tap water and it’s BYO. We have very little water left so I empty my drink bottle into a pan to cook some potatoes to go with chicken kiev. It’s a desperate situation, we are forced to replace water with red wine to drink and I know it sounds extravagant but we will have to wash the dishes with... soda water.
We are in the Northern Territory and in NT, you can buy fireworks and set them off, unlike other states where it’s illegal. From behind a caravan in the camp comes a rocket and a loud bang followed by short bursts of fireworks and cheers from the kids. Obviously dad has spared no expense buying his stash of fireworks and the show is greatly appreciated by all, all be it a little scattered in between setting off fireworks as he manually lights them.
I hope the fireworks haven’t woken up the spirits and messed with the devil. We could all be turned into stone (marbles) by the night’s end.
Tired from driving, it’s an early night but now that we have made distance, we can hang around in the morning and explore the Devils Marbles some more.
One by one, the open fires die out, caravan lights are turned off, the place is deathly silent and wow, there’s a billion stars in the night sky.
Its eerily quiet, like all the people in their caravans have been taken (empty) and the place has no sound and no signs of life. Except at about midnight, there’s sounds breaking the silence coming from a number of cars close by. The black Kites have risen and someone’s out there trying their luck to find an unlocked car door. I see a flash light too so i get up and stand in the darkness shining my torch to rat them out. It goes deadly silent once more... Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryKatherine14°18’46” S 132°25’24” E
30 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We have reached the last day of June and already suffered through one month of winter at a chilling 30 degrees every day. In fact, we last saw rainfall in Darwin on 18th May. It was warm last night too so neither of us got the best of sleeps.
This morning we make our way to Katherine Gorge jetty and the start of our 4 hour Katherine Gorge “timeless land” cruise. The bats are still squarking in the trees. We are travelling through three gorges that are separated by dry rock and boulders this time of the year so we have to boat hop.
the naming of Katherine Gorge is rather uninspiring although we can agree, Katherine is a beautiful name. It was named after the second daughter of a wealthy entrepreneur and Pastoralist James Chambers Esq. He funded an exploration of the area by John McDouall Stuart in 1862. One of his other daughters is named Edith, hence, Edith Falls down the road.
I think we passed a dry creek bed on our way through so we’ll have that, “Jaime’s Creek”. She can add that to “Jaime’s Bar”.
The Aboriginal name for Katherine Gorge is Nitmiluk and the Jawoyn clan are traditional owners and custodians of this timeless land.
Now Katherine Gorge is part of the Arnhem Sandstone Plateau which runs all the way from the top end of Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Katherine river runs all year but can peak up to 15m higher than the current level during the wet season.
There are a few lazy fresh water crocodiles on the banks and we see protected sandy areas where they lay their eggs. Only 1% of all crocodile eggs survive and make it to adulthood. We don’t see any other wildlife of note on the cruise and most wildlife is active teal early in the morning or before sunset. 9.00am is like an afternoon snooze to them to escape the heat. Except for us human folk...
The second gorge is the most impressive with taller ridge lines and vertical sandstone walls. Occasionally, a fault line on one side of the gorge where the sandstone has fractured is replicated on the opposite side of the river. In these pockets, plants and trees thrive.
Back at the section between gorge one and two are a couple of swimming holes. They are cold and shallow but Jen takes the plunge as I take up my important role as a vertical life guard from the rocks. The Jawoyn people are not allowed to fish swim or drink these waters as they may disturb Bolung, the Rainbow Searpant and his spirit may cause lightening or a great Monsoon. We apparently are ok though.
The camp ground is a buzz when we return as there are two year nine school groups setting up camp, both from Melbourne, Wantirna College and Brentwood Secondary College. They are travelling up the centre to Darwin and back and have set up their Nomadic tents in circles with the boys in one hemisphere and the girls in the other. That’s a lot of mouths to feed and keep happy. Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryKatherine14°19’8” S 132°25’11” E
29 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
Yeah right... I think we’ve been here before. In fact this is our fourth visit to Katherine on our trip. The first after crossing from the East Coast and up the middle, the 2nd after blowing a tyre on the campervan 30km north of Katherine so a return visit, the third as we drove down from Darwin turning west towards Kimberley and the Gibb and the fourth today driving from Kakadu.
DRIVE: Cooinda Lodge to Katherine, Nitmuluk National Park via Edith Falls (300km).
After reaching the Stuart Highway from Kakadu Highway, we turn right instead of left and visit the little community of Pine Creek, just up the road. For a place in the middle of nowhere, it punches well above its weight and The Railway Resort has a trendy cafe/restaurant that is encapsulating in the design of a locomotive. The railway and industry has played an important role in Pine Creek so there’s a fair bit of infrastructure and facilities. We tuck into home made beef pies for brunch.
From Pine Creek, we head down the Stuart Highway and before reaching Katherine, we side track to visit Edith Falls. It’s a pretty place with a wide open lagoon fed by a small waterfall which in turn is fed by a bigger one further upstream.
Edith Falls is the finishing point for the 6 day Jatbulla trail/hike which starts at Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). We have done our big hike for this trip on Hinchenbrook so we’re relieved that we are not doing this one. A pleasant swim out to the base of the falls is the order for the day. I try catching a lift on a turtles back but Jen throws me off straight away.
Edith Falls has a cafe and is a popular camping area which is filling up fast. Today is the start of the school holidays so we are expecting things to get a bit busier from here on in. We are staying at Katherine Gorge so that we can experience the gorge on our doorstep so after being refreshed at Edith Falls, we move on.
Next stop is Katherine town centre for some supplies. I visit BWS (Beers, Wines and Spirits) for red wine, corona and cider. Two police men are inside the store checking the id of everyone wanting to buy alcohol. I hand over my driver’s license and the police officer asks me where I will be consuming. Well in me van of course and he lets me on my way. Obviously there are many problems associated with alcohol and the Aboriginal community so the police are enforcing strict protocol.
CAMP: Nitmuluk Caravan Park / 2 Nights
Less that 30km from Katherine centre is Nitmiluk National Park and the start of Katherine Gorge. We are staying two nights here, one to chill and one to explore the gorge.
Jen enquires at the ranger’s office about using our kayaks to explore Katherine Gorge. Well yes we can but gorge one is off limits due to the sighting of a salt water crocodile and personal kayaks are not allowed on the ferry to gorge two, only hired ones. So the only way is to carry our kayaks 6km to gorge two. That sounds a bit dumb so to kayak Katherine Gorge, we would have to hire them for 80 bucks each.
No worries, we decide to book on a 4 hour morning cruise of three of the gorges instead and sit back, rest up and just enjoy. Besides, we get fed and watered and it will be an easier way to take photos. So that’s what we are doing tomorrow.
With campervan all set up, we walk to the boat ramp at the start of gorge one and follow a pathway and steep steps leading up to a view overlooking the river.
The sun is perfect for a bit of theatrical fun so we take some shots of our shadows on the sandstone rock. It’s our version of spirit rock art. I am the of course the spirit of siesta time and Jen is the spirit of book reading. We try Peter Pan and Wendy but my personal favourite is the gun to the head shot and there’s one of Jen being like a Jabiru, her spirit bird.
As we start to head back down from the lookout, from across the river and over the ridge of the sandstone cliffs we hear what sounds like, well a dinosaur. It just didn’t sound like any other wildlife we had heard before and we both look at each other in bewilderment and surprise. “what was that”.
Back at camp, a female country and western singer/guitarist is playing great old time music set up around the pool/bar area. It’s a great vibe as we listen from our campsite whilst we enjoy a home made chicken Korma curry and a glass of red.
I think Kakadu has mellowed us out a bit and taught us the importance of just sitting and contemplating with no clutter. That’s cool cos I like to either go all out or chill out.
Speaking of chilling, yesterday a German bloke says hello, how’s your day to me and I reply “just chillin” to which he replies “why are you so cold, it’s 30 degrees”. Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’18” S 132°31’14” E
28 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Following on from sunrise, we are back at Yellow Water for a 2 hour sunset cruise. This evening’s entertainment and informative guide to the Yellow Water is Reuben’s brother Dennis. Not sure if Dennis is a Brother Brother, a Brother or just a Brother? What we know is that they are related and are from the same clan, the Murumburr people who have many brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles of the same blood line.
Dennis is a larger well rounded man with a wide Akubra hat and he likes his geese fat, his buffalo juicy and tender and his favourite recipe is duck curry.
As Dennis boards the vessel, a passenger on the front row notices something on the brim of his hat. It’s a large Huntsman Spider the size of a hand and Dennis calmly flips it off and we haven’t even started our adventure yet.
The sun is still relatively high and hot at 4.30pm but there’s a different vibe to the place and everything is brighter and the yellow water is shining well... yellow. Reason, the Melaleuca tree roots have created a yellow tinge to the water.
Straight away we spot a dominant male ”Max the croc” on the banks of the Billiabong and within moments, the adrenaline is up and it’s all happening again...
Nine o’clock, Sea Eagles pitched on a dead tree branch, one o’clock, Wild Horses behind the scrub protecting a foal, eleven o’clock a lone Brown Kite in the tree, wait on is that a snake in the tree as well, three o’clock, Wood Ducks with their tiger like markings, twelve o’clock in the distance, wild Buffalo grazing, above and on the move, a large Jabiru in flight which looks like a Terradactyle, one thirty upstream, a group of ducks are spooked by something, probably a croc and take off on mass into the sunset.
Phew, let’s take a breath for a moment.
Dennis spots a large male crocodile fully out on the left river bank. He’s impressive in size and we get so close to him on the bank that one could reach out and almost touch. Not so quick, he spotted us well before we spotted him and his eyes are following our every move so careful, his reaction time is like lightening. The croc is a new male to the area and Dennis tells us there’s about 300 crocs per 1km stretch of water so if you fall in, chances are, you be eaten.
The large male croc suddenly turns, pitches his head up and opens his mammoth jaws as a sign of aggression, don’t mess with me kind of look. Well is there any other look???
Jen manages to get a shot of me with my back to the croc and I think she was strategically moving me closer and hesitating with the camera settings and focus... “just take the shot”.
The sun has reached the point where it drops quickly on the horizon so after two hours which seems like 30 seconds, we head back to Yellow Water billabong to sit still, sit quiet and take in sunset. The occasional bird is making its last call from the grasslands and everything has turned peaceful and calm.
Myself and Jen are totally exhausted from all the excitement on the Yellow Water Cruise today. Dawn till dusk, It’s been a blast. We get dropped off at the resort again and treat ourselves to battered Barramundi and chips from the food van at the resort as a dinner treat.
Kakadu has been an amazing place, a 2.4 billion year old place where you have to sit still, take it all in and appreciate the abundance of wildlife, the spirit of Dreamtime and a 65,000 year old Aboriginal culture that still follow the same stories and traditions today.
Bobo. Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’19” S 132°31’14” E
28 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
It’s an early start to the day, up before dawn and onto a shuttle bus to take us down to Yellow Water (Ngurrungurridjba) for a two hour sunrise cruise. It’s a cool, still and foggy morning which adds to the excitement and atmosphere as we depart the billabong jetty into Yellow Water and onto South Alligator River, never to be seen again!
Our Aboriginal guide is the charismatic and fun loving Reuben who’s native family, the Murrumburr people are the traditional owners of Yellow Water and surrounding areas. Reuben says it as it is and tells us that New South Wales Rugby folk are the first to be sent overboard for the crocodiles. Jen stays silent as she doesn’t want to let on she is a mighty magpies fan just in case they’re on the list too and today, an endangered species.
Reuben talks quickly and is excited when he sees stuff; birds, crocs, fish, buffalo and there’s plenty happening that we are on the edge of our seats. I am on the hunt for a big salt water crocodile or “salty” and Jen is searching for her favourite bird, the Jabiru.
With snorkel and mask in hand, we quietly slip into the dark foggy reaches of the Yellow Water... just kidding. No way!
Reuben positions the boat to capture the rising sun and the blanket of fog starts to disappear In the billabong as the birds come to life in abundance. He can recognise all sounds and bird calls and instantaneously identify them and points them out.
Amongst the birds we see egrets, Kites nesting, kingfishers, snake necked darters, sea eagles and wood ducks and that’s naming a few of many.
Jen spots a vibrant Lotus flower in the lillies which has many uses in cooking... if you can get your hands on it.
We spot a few smaller crocodiles mainly submerged within the lillies and close to the river bank but Reuben is after the big one which he spotted a couple of days ago with a 3 metre crocodile in its mouth!. They are fearsome territorial creatures and on the this occasion, the big one ate the little one and left it draping in its mouth on display for a whole day. Don’t mess with me, I’m the boss.
Crocodiles are the world’s largest living reptile. They are also the most ancient having existed unchanged for 200 million years. Crocodylus porosus or the estuarine crocodile are aggressive and will instinctually attack unsuspecting prey, human or wildlife.
The Aboriginal name for the salt water crocodile is Ginga so this morning, we are hunting for the 5 metre Ginga. Right on cue, as we turn a corner in the South Alligator River, Big Ginga appears like he was waiting for the boat load of fresh people to arrive and he slowly cruises at boat speed by the side of us.
Known affectionately as Van Gogh because he had one ear torn off in a fight, he seems calm but on occasion, he cuts the boat off ahead when Reuben tries to turn. He is one smart cookie. I get eye to eye with the croc as I zoom in to capture him close up. This inside of his yellow eye has a narrow slit where he is focused on me and anything else that looks like dinner. This dude survived the dinosaurs so he has my total respect.
Reuben explains that most white folk who taste crocodile meat say it tastes like chicken but farm raised crocs are fed chicken heads to fill them up. Out here, crocodile tastes like emu, barramundi, bufallo, wallaby, duck and people because that’s what Ginga eats. The Aboriginals also eat the skin of the crocodile, it’s tasty, but we don’t get to taste that as the skin of a farmed croc is a precious commodity for your Goochie bags and the like.
Captivated by the movement of the croc in the water, I turn as Reuben calls out “Jabiru, right, one o’clock. And there he is, one tall majestic Jabiru with thin bright red stick legs. Jen loves the Jabiru because she was also known for her gangly legs and arms back in her ballet class when she was a kid. So she has a real affinity with the Jabiru and its her spirit bird.
Brilliant, we have seen a salty croc and a Jabiru in a morning’s work and they are elusive no more.
Retiring to the billabong and jetty, we are swiftly returned to Cooinda Lodge for an all you can eat buffet breakfast which is a perfect way to end the sunrise tour.
It doesn’t end there folks. We took advantage of booking on the Sunset Yellow Water boat tour tonight for an extra $25 each so we will get to see a different timeline and capture the birds and wildlife before the setting of the sun. See additional footprint. Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’21” S 132°31’16” E
27 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
DRIVE: Jabiru to Cooinda (40km)
40km south of Jabiru on the Kakadu Highway, we visit Nourlangie Rock on route to Cooinda Lodge and our next camping spot in Kakadu. Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) is famous for its rock art and evidence of Aboriginal settlement in and around the rock overhangs. Like many Aboriginal places, the names have been labelled incorrectly, misspelt or interpreted wrongly by white people. Nourlangie is close by but the rock formation here is actually named Burrunggui for the upper section of the rock and Angbangbang for the lower section of the rock.
It’s almost 10.30am so we have timed our visit to join in on the end of an Aboriginal Interpretation tour. A young white female who works for Kakadu National Park was taking the tour and she was super informative and knowledgeable about the Aboriginal culture and history at this place.
We are standing in the past, facing a large cave like rock overhang with another sheltering rock formation behind us and vista views on either side of the woodlands and escarpment. The breeze is gently filtering through and combined with shade, it makes the shelter cool from the heat of the sun and a perfect place to set up residence. Its a special place.
Aboriginal paintings adorn the walls and evidence of smoke can be seen on the ceiling of the overhang giving clues to its long history as an Aboriginal dwelling.
So how long ago? Well the guide explains that after a number of archeological digs, tools were found at the site and the most primitive tool, a sharp rock implement was dated to 65,000 years ago when the area was dryer and more arid. That’s mind blowing.
As the land and climate changed dramatically over time, we can move to 20,000 years ago and see that the tools and implements are more sophisticated with spears and rope and fire sticks. These tools were found at the same site and indicate that the land was more fertile for food and hunting and these residents were less transient and more like settlers.
So that’s still 20,000 years ago, and still a lot more recent than 65,000 years when the earliest ancestors roamed this land. To get the timeline into perspective, Jesus was 2,000 years ago, The Pyramids 4,000 years ago and Stone Henge 5,000 years ago. What’s even more impressive is that the Aboriginal culture still has the same belief systems and values today and they largely prepare and eat their food the same way.
Amazing...
As we move on and follow a pathway winding through the rock, there are many more sites of cultural significance, some of which are off limits. The tour guide explained that this site is a small example of indigenous culture and there are a great many more hidden and sacred places right through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.
Like the ancient ancestors who created paintings and artwork on rock, the tradition continues with new stories and art depicting modern times being added and even white men with guns! It’s a never ending timeline of stories dating back as far as 65,000 years ago. Wait a minute, isn’t that like Facebook, let me see, it’s surely been around for 15 years.
So we finally meet The Lightning Man. The Lightning Man rock art is a relatively recent painting although its spirit and story go back thousands of years.
The rock art depicts Namarrgon (Lightning Man) who is an important creation ancestor responsible for the violent lightning storms that occur every tropical summer.
The band running from Namarrgon’s left ankle to his hands and head and down to his right ankle represents the lightning he creates. He uses the axes on his head, elbows and feet to split the dark clouds and make lightning and thunder.
During his travels, Namarrgon left his power behind at many places and on his last last journey, he approached the Arnhem Land escarpment from the east and looked over the sheer wall. He took out an eye and placed it high on the cliff at Namarrgondjahdjam (Lightning Dreaming), where it sits waiting for the storm season.
CAMP: Cooinda Lodge / 2 Nights
After exploring Nourlangie, we drive the short distance to Cooinda and set up for 2 nights.
The remainder of the day is filled by lazing by the resort pool and catching happy hour at the restaurant for a beer and cider. there are aboriginal folk enjoying a beer in the gardens and as i pass an elder woman, she says “how ya goin” and i reply, “me good” doh!!!
I think “me dumb dumb”. Czytaj więcej
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest Arnhem12°39’2” S 132°43’56” E
26 czerwca 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Today we are exploring the East Alligator River and heading to Ubirr for sunset. It’s a long day until sunset so Jen makes fried Haloumi Cheese with smashed avocado, bacon and cherry tomatoes on sourdough toast for breakfast. That will keep us going.
We start the day at Bowali Visitor Centre to explore Aboriginal culture and the diversity of Kakadu National Park. What did we learn?
Well the indigenous folk call themselves Gukberlerri (Aboriginal People) and they call us white folk Guhelbe (Non Aboriginal People).
There are six local Gundjeihmi seasons;
1. Gudjewg (Monsoon) Dec to Mar
2. Banggerreng (Harvest time) Apr
3. Yegge (Cooler but still humid) May to Jun
4. Wurrgeng (Cool dry season) Jun to Aug
5. Gurrung (Hot dry time) Aug to Oct
6. Gunumeling (Pre monsoon) Oct to Dec
So that puts us in Wurrgeng, the cool dry season when most creeks stop flowing, the Floodplains dry out and birds of prey like the Black Kite patrol fire lines, swooping for wildlife.
Also we found out that Kakadu surrounds a rich uranium site and by coincidence... the Aboriginals call this area Buladjang or “sickness country”.
Next we visit Mamukala Wetlands for a spot of bird watching. It’s an all weather sport up here and today it’s hot and dry. Camera at the ready, we follow a 3km walk close to the wetlands. I hear plenty but only spot 2 birds. The photo of the little blue and yellow bird is my shot of the day. Can anyone name the bird?
It’s a bit like when we lived in Lennox Gardens in London and our park always had birds tweeting but we never saw them. Those surround sound speakers are so realistic these days and they must deploy them in numbers on this bird watching tour. Truth be known, we are a bit late, it’s 9.30am already and the early bird catches the worm.
The drive into Ubirr is about 40km. I did it back in 1990 as a backpacker and with little money to spare, I stood on the corner of the then dirt track and a group of Aboriginal men stopped in a Ute vehicle and offered me a lift to Ubirr, dropping me off at the YHA. I could have ended up in Arnhem Land as a lost soul taken by the spirits as we are right on the border. Well the road is sealed now and no sign of the YHA anymore.
Ubirr has great examples of Aboriginal rock art depicting Dreamtime and stories from time past. My favourite is the painting of Mabuyu which tells a story that warns against stealing. The short story goes that someone stole his fish so the fearsome Mabuyu locked everyone in a cave and they got punished, kids, women, men... all dead.
We walk through the escarpment of Ubirr towards sandstone formations and climb up to a vantage point overlooking the flood plains and Arnhem Land in the distance. It’s an amazing view and time has stood still here, it’s as it was thousands of years ago, an ancient land living and breathing with the six seasons. Even with the dry, there’s a pretty billabong sustaining life in the middle of the plain and everywhere is green.
As we are here for sunset and it’s not until after 6.00pm, we drive a short distance to Cahill’s Crossing which is a short vehicle crossing over the East Alligator River to Arnhem Land and a known crocodile spotting area. Regardless of the “Danger, Crocodile” signs, men were walking the crossing and in the shallows of the river fishing for Barramundi. There’s even the remains of our 4WD, sorry a 4WD in the river that had come to a sad and sorry end on the crossing.
I just realised that after all my footprints and highlights about crocs, I haven’t seen a salty on this trip yet. Plenty of freshies but none of the big bad ones. Jen has seen a 4.5m salty in the Ord river at Kununurra but let’s face it, where’s the photographic evidence... so I am still on the hunt.
As we return to the Ubirr lookout, the surrounding landscape is crackling fiercely with the sound of fire with flames climbing up the Pandanus Palms and smoke haze everywhere. We’re on fire and it’s literally metres away. A burn off is in progress and the wild grasses are erupting in flames whilst the Kites circle above. Like everyone else, we assume it’s safe and continue the climb up to the sandstone lookout.
We are 2 hours early for sunset so I stand one footed on a rock and contemplate life whilst Jen sits on a rock, pulls out a book and sticks her head in it. I replicate the shot with a couple of props from Jen. A book is on the top of Jen’s survival list. Mine would be a double shot latte and a scotch finger biscuit...
It’s difficult to capture in a photo the amazing view across the Kakadu plains and out towards Arnhem Land as the sun sets and the birds excitedly fly across the billabong. It’s again one of those moments to just enjoy.
I did get a few good creative shots of the billabong though as the sun creates a mirror reflection on the water. All too soon, the sun is disappearing for another day and like other folk around us, we rush back down from the lookout as the light fades to dark and the Dreamtime spirits start to appear. Czytaj więcej
