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East Coast Australia
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh

East Coast Australia

Travelling up the East Coast of Australia with our Campervan in tow. Read more
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  • East Coast Australia
    1

    The Big B

    March 13, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Slow down, not too quick or we will miss the “Big B”. Whoops, too late, passed it by already.

    Recognised as Australia’s original and first “BIG” tourist attraction, before the likes of the big pineapple, the big prawn and the big koala, The Big Banana takes pride of place in Australia’s folklore.

    We are not quite sure what goes on past the gates of The Big Banana but it is indeed a theme park and you can have any flavoured milk shake you like as long as it’s...?

    Coffs Harbour is banana country and the first bananas were introduced into the area from Fiji in 1881.

    We are travelling a few km up north to Forest Sky Pier at Sealy Lookout which has panoramic views overlooking Coffs Harbour and the sub tropical canopy below. On the drive up, you will find many banana plantations with the banana trees literally clinging onto the under soil on steep fertile slopes. They must have been harvested already as we didn’t actually see any bananas.

    The afternoon was spent at the botanical garden and a visit to the local cemetery, a past time of Jen’s. Only one adventure activity today. We had planned to run, snorkel, bike ride, kayak, surf and do a big hike, but in the end we settled on a lethargic return to the Big 4 adventure pool.

    WILDLIFE
    Ibis (birds)    Read more

  • East Coast Australia
    2

    Coffs to Byron

    March 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Can you see the lighthouse on the most eastern point of Australia ? Look closely to where my feet are pointing...

    DRIVE: Coffs Harbour to Byron Bay (232km). The Pacific Highway is getting a $4.9b rebuild from Woolgoolga to Ballina so 186 of our 232km was done through roadworks and reduced speed limits!!!

    Despite that, the drive was very scenic; closely following the Clarence and Richmond Rivers. Beautiful wide rivers - we can only imagine they received some of the north’s monsoon rain from January. Lots of irrigation for the cattle and sugar cane.

    We drove through lots of small country towns, some with only a scattering of houses, and one with a huge sugar mill (Broadwater). One had one of those brown tourist signs saying 1860s historic port and a ferry to help the 446 locals cross the river (Ulmarra). Makes you wonder about all the places people live... At one point we thought we’d made a wrong turn as we passed Kentucky!!! We think it’s a blueberry farm.

    CAMPSITE: We had decided to stay a bit out of Byron Bay itself so we’re just down the road at Suffolk Beachfront Holiday Park; right on Tallow Beach. A small park with a mixture of hippy-type residents, backpackers, ‘glampers’ and us. Bike path or beach all the way into Byron... and a really good set of shops/cafes at the end of the street.

    By the time we set up and had the requisite afternoon rest, there was really only time for a stroll on the beach before a big thunderstorm hit. Love being tucked up in our campervan when outside it’s all thunder, lightning and rain.

    WILDLIFE: Road runners everywhere!! (aka bush turkeys).    Read more

  • East Coast Australia
    1

    Sunrise at Cape Byron Lighthouse

    March 15, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    So you know that lighthouse Jen’s feet were pointing at yesterday... Today we got up early to see the sunrise from Cape Byron, the most easterly point in Australia and home to a very famous lighthouse. Built in 1901, it was operated by resident keepers until 1989 when it became fully automated. It is Australia’s most powerful lighthouse, being visible from a distance of 27 nautical miles (50km). Amazingly it still uses the original lens; 2m in diameter and 780 pieces of highly polished prismatic glass.

    Even though we’ve been able to see sunrises all up and down the east coast, it was really quite exciting being on Cape Byron as the sun came up. Something about being the first piece of Australia the sun touches maybe?? The morning was glorious. And not too many people...
    I imagine it is chaotic in peak season.

    Tip: the gates don’t open until 8am so you need to park in one of the car parks (they fill up quickly & cost $4/hour) and walk the 500m or so up to the lighthouse.

    Having hung out at the lighthouse for a while, we took ourselves off to a local cafe for breakfast; appropriately named (for Steve), Espressohead.

    Next stop: a swim and a boogie board (their first outing) at Tallow Beach to finish a great morning.

    Now if that was not enough highlights in one day, this afternoon was one of Jen’s. Catching her first wave in the kayak & looking totally professional all the way in to shore. Unfortunately there’s no photographic evidence but it was the best wave of the day and even the surfers watched in awe...
    Steve’s kayak seat came unattached and he fell off backwards on the very same wave... blame the equipment.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia
    1

    In Two Places At Once

    March 16, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Remember that trip to pick up an Apple at Pearson Street a while back; well, Steve went a bit further this time and flew back home to Melbourne for 24 hours to attempt to recover his back up files to his new MacBook. Notice the findpenguins maps have him flying there and back out of Coolangatta Airport in the Gold Coast.

    The bonus was that he could catch up with Jaime and go out for dinner, of course it’s steak on the menu at the Meat & Wine Company in Camberwell.

    Leaving me at Byron Bay, my mission - to discover where all the hippies went when the backpackers moved into Byron.

    Mullumbimby would be the answer. On my way back from dropping Steve off at Coolangatta airport, I dropped in to this little hinterland town. Mooched around a bit, checking out the locals who I suspect had moved the 21km to put some distance between them and the “fake” Byron interlopers. Some nice artisan shops and cafes...

    On my way back into Byron, I discovered the Byron Bay Railroad which runs a little train from North Beach to Byron and back. Little being applicable to both the train (circa 1961) and the length of the ride. Not really worth it unless you’re planning to spend more than 2 hours in Byron Bay and don’t want to pay for parking. In that case, park at North Beach for free and pay the $8.00 return for the train ride.

    WILDLIFE: Hippies!!    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Binna Burra and Gondwana Rainforests

    March 17, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Ok, Jen is in Byron Bay and I have just been dropped off at Melbourne airport by Possum for 11.00 hours rendezvous at Coolangatta.

    Jen is charged with packing up the campervan and luckily the rain stopped at 5.00am and she did a top job.

    DRIVE: Byron Bay to Binna Burra, Lamington National Park via Coolangatta Airport (137km).

    The drive up to Binna Burra, Lamington National Park is sealed road all the way but quite steep and windy. Rain had set in so slow and steady climbing 800m above sea level to our camping destination.

    CAMP: Binna Burra Rainforest Lodge and Campground / 3N

    Binna Burra is located on the eastern side of Lamington National Park with Green Mountains to the west. Our campsite is basically in the middle of a rainforest (part of the ancient global Gondwana rainforest) with tall Flame trees, eucalyptus trees reaching for the misty sky and Antarctic Bech trees interspersed with tropical plants and palms, each species competing for sunlight.

    It’s a quick set up of the campervan as the mist and fog is surrounding us and we are heading for a big storm. I think we picked up a Bush Turkey at the start of our trip and every time we move to a new camp, the same Bush Turkey reappears... it’s like the Road Runner... beep beep.

    After setup, we did a a short hike to Bellbird lookout and followed the Cliff Track. The lookout would have gifted magnificent views on other days, but today, it’s a sheer drop and then white eerie mist ahead. Still it gave a great feeling of remoteness and being surrounded by ancient forest. We started off dry but the humidity eventually caught up on us and by the end of the hike, we were quite saturated.

    We tracked back to base camp just in time before the clouds turned a dark purple and thunder and lightning was overhead. In rainforests, when it rains, it pours, so we huddled into the van and even though it’s not a cold climate, we made hot water bottles for comfort. The rain continued throughout the night and was nice to fall asleep to.

    WILDLIFE: Bush Turkey, Red Necked Pademelon (little Wallaby)    Read more

  • East Coast Australia
    11

    Caves Track and the Call of the Lyrebird

    March 18, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    After a magnificent storm last night, the skies were clear this morning so we ventured onto the Binna Burra 5km Caves Track hike. It’s down hill all the way for 3.5km leading to a small tourist info shelter which has documented the history of The Lamington National Park. After the descent, you can choose to retrace your steps or walk the 1.5km road back up to camp. We did the latter as it offers scenic valley views along the way and you can even see Q1 and the unmistakable outline of Surfers Paradise skyscrapers from 32km away.

    As we descended into the dense rainforest, “I tell no lie” we heard a high pitched but extremely melodic birdsong call. I mimicked it’s call as best I could and the birdsong responded in perfect harmony. What’s the bird? We’ve heard it before but not exactly sure of its identity. Hang on, I think it’s... a Lyrebird.

    In fact it’s an Albert’s Lyrebird (a songbird / Kulwun), it’s part of an ancient, unique bird group that evolved when flowering plants began to dominate the landscape. It can mimic any sound and often steals the identity of the Kookaburra.

    Listen to my video to hear the Lyrebird’s call and for a special presentation from Sir David Attenborough, follow the link below.

    https://youtu.be/VjE0Kdfos4Y

    The Yugambeh Language group first walked this land following ancestor footpaths to sacred sites. From 1700, most of the early settlers to Australia walked out of necessity (Shank’s Pony) and the leisure term “bushwalking” was coined although the upper class in their immaculate attire referred to it as “rambling”. I like to think of a short hike as a “trundle” so we trundled through Lamington NP today following one of the many trails set down by pioneers in the 1930s.

    We walked up to Binna Burra Lodge for a coffee in the afternoon and sat in the panoramic dining room and watched a storm brew on the horizon. Suddenly the atmosphere had changed, low clouds passed overhead, fog surrounded and the heavens opened up. Within no more than 10 minutes from the storm reaching our vantage point, it past by and a beautiful sun and blue sky appeared like magic. Jen took full advantage.

    Came across a deadly Brown Snake today but we managed to contain it and keep it from harms way...

    With an opportunity for an evening camp fire, we gathered wood, diced some rump steak, potatoes, onions, garlic and, a tin of tomatoes, some veggies and a good splash of red wine and slow cooked a stew in the pot belly stove. Oh and don’t forget the dumplings “inspired by R Kid”. Like the French, i finished it off with a good knob of butter and voila, a taste sensation.

    WILDLIFE: Lyrebird, Brown Snake    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Antarctic Beech in Queensland?

    March 19, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A beautiful sunrise this morning followed by
    another short walk along the start of the Border Track & then into a sacred, ancient place called Tullawallal. Here you find Antarctic Beech; the most northern forest of this ancient species.

    It all started when we were Gondwana. The present-day continents of South America, Africa, Australia and Antarctica, (along with India, New Zealand, New Guinea, Madagascar, Arabia and other parts of the present Middle East) made up Gondwana. Some 120 million years ago, Gondwana began to break up. Australia remained attached to Antarctica until about 65 to 70 million years ago, after which it began to move northwards, taking the Beech tree with it.

    It was very peaceful just sitting there quietly.

    On the way back to camp via the Loop Track, we came across the rangers dissecting a huge tree that had come down. Begs the question - If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?

    Returning to camp, we set the fire again and relaxed for the rest of the day & evening. Binna Burra is just the right sort of place to do that!

    WILDLIFE: Short eared possum    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    My Name's Brendan Delaney

    March 20, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Early pack up from Binna Burra today and double checked for hitch hiking Bush Turkeys. As we drive down from Lamington National Park, we get amazing glimpses of the outline of Surfers Paradise in the distance.

    DRIVE: Binna Burra to Noosa via Caloundra (248km)

    We are catching up with our great friends, Janine and Brendan Delaney who live on the Sunshine Coast near Mooloolaba. It’s on the way up to Noosa so we stop and catch up for lunch at Golden Beach, Caloundra.

    We haven’t caught up with them for many years and like our gremlin, their kids, Ryan and Sophie are all grown up. Ryan was 2 when i last saw him as I read an extract from Mao’s Last Dancer to him (in Mandarin...?). Well Brendan found the same little red book on his shelf, dusted it off and me and Ryan (now 24) posed to replicate the original shot. Out there....!

    We have spent many a fine night with the Delaneys with many a story to tell especially me celebrating St Patrick’s with Brendan.

    After the excitement of catching up, we managed to completely drain the car battery as the campervan was left still hooked up... doh! So a quick call to RACQ and a late arrival into Noosa.

    We’re in luck, it’s Wednesday night, wood fired pizza night at the caravan park.

    CAMP: Noosa River Caravan Park / 3 nights

    WILDLIFE
    You guessed it, the same Bush Turkey.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Kayak to Walshies Island on Noosa River

    March 21, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After being on the go a bit, today is a chill out day on the shores of Noosa River. Besides, it gets very humid up here after 8.30am. So humid in fact that after having a cold shower, by the time you've dried off, you're hot and sweaty again. Best place to cool off is in the river. Noosa River is tidal and flows in and out to the sea at Noosa Heads. The caravan park is right next to the heads so its in a perfect spot and the shoreline of the river has pristine sandy beaches.

    Jen took a bike ride into Noosa which is not far and literally across the bridge. The Main Street is famous for high fashion shops, boutique beachside hotels and a mix of cafes and restaurants from 5 star fine dining to Betty's Burgers and of course the iconic Noosa Surf Club. Noosa is the place to be seen and its full of glamorous people, cool backpackers sun baking on Noosa beach and a great mix of people enjoying coffee and ice cream from all walks of life.

    In the afternoon, we launched the kayaks from the shoreline of the caravan park and paddled down stream on low tide following a number of inlets. The inlets of Noosa are full of exclusive waterfront properties, each seemingly with a jetty and a boat.

    Paddling on low tide is not easy and we soon found ourselves marooned on a small stretch of sand forming a neat island in the middle of the river. Unclaimed, we stepped ashore as pirates and named it "Walshies Island". Now real estate isn't cheap in these parts so having our own island in the middle of Noosa is a prized catch indeed, until of course, the tide turns, the sand shifts and our footprints on the island disappear without trace...

    Noosa River Caravan Park is perfect for a sunset so camp chairs unfolded and beer in hand, we join the many other campers at the shoreline to watch the brilliant skies change colour over the river. The birds are chirping with excitement, mainly Rosellas and Indian Minors and we are indeed treated to a spectacular sunset silhouetted by a palm tree in the foreground.

    Suddenly, it becomes silent and darkness is upon us already at 6.30pm. There's no daylight saving in Queensland so the clocks are one hour behind but it is still very humid.    Read more

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    A Croc Encounter at Australia Zoo

    March 22, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    “Gday Mate”

    Australia Zoo on the Sunshine Coast is home to the Irwin family and is the legacy of the most passionate and energetic wildlife warrior and crocodile conservationist, Steve Irwin.

    Steve, known simply as “The Crocodile Hunter” was accidentally struck by the barb of a stingray whilst diving at bat reef on 4th September 2006 and tragically died from his injury.

    Today, Terri, Bindi and Robert Irwin take care of Australia Zoo ensuring that Steve's legacy lives on. Australia Zoo now encompasses nearly 1000 acres and employs over 400 staff, continuing Steve's mission of "Conservation through exciting education".

    The centrepiece of Australia Zoo is The Crocoseum, dedicated to Steve’s work. After exploring Asia and Africa and meeting the tigers, lemurs, giraffes, zebra, rhino, giant turtles and Jen”s favourite, the meerkats, we caught the shuttle across the park to experience a croc encounter and our indigenous wildlife.

    Meet Mossman, an impressive 4.5m male salt water crocodile, 100 million years in the making. Mossman slowly moved through the water into the crocoseum in silence... without a ripple or a stir of the water. He’s a pretty big beast and although slow on land, crocs can swim at about 28km/hr so watch out on the river’s edge. They are Australia’s Apex predator and have survived life on earth past the extinction of the dinosaurs.

    Although primarily focused on animal conservation, Australia Zoo has lots of exhibits and wildlife encounters so you can get up close and personal and it doesn’t feel like a zoo. Each wildlife area has been meticulously replicated with landscaping and plants to suit each animal’s natural environment.

    After exploring the dingos, red kangaroos and reptiles, we retreated from the afternoon sun and headed back to Noosa for a refreshing swim.

    Our wine loving friends from Adelaide, Kathy and Manny finally caught us up as they have been chasing us up the coast since Jervis Bay. It’s always a fun time with them so after a sunset drink or two at the caravan park, a trip to the men’s loo (Kathy?), we went into Noosa Main Street and had dinner at Rococco restaurant.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    The Iconic Noosa Surf Club

    March 23, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today we had to pack up the campervan and move sites in the caravan park as we had decided to stay an extra night. Normally an easy proposition but at 9.00am it was so hot and humid, we must have lost a few kilos packing the gear.

    I have given up putting a tee shirt on as it just becomes saturated in the humidity.

    We met up with The Delaneys once more at the iconic Noosa Surf Club overlooking the beach for lunch. As well as Brendan & Janine, we met their daughter Sophie and Sophie’s boyfriend Marley.

    Cold local beer and a bucket of fresh prawns are the house favourite, but I settled on The Big Kahuna Burger.

    In 1929 a Club House was placed on the Noosa beach and in May 1931 the name was changed to Noosa Life Saving and Surf Club. Since then the club has continued to patrol the beach with the proud record of no lives lost on Noosa Beach while lifesavers were on patrol.

    Surf lifesaving began on the beaches of Sydney then spread around the country, first to Western Australia and Queensland then later to the other states. The Royal Life Saving Society, which originated in Britain, placed lifelines on beaches and held classes.

    Today, most of the major beaches in Australia have designated patrolled surf life saving areas and the distinctive SLSA with their red and yellow caps, yellow top and red shorts are a major part of the Aussie culture.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Migrating to Hervey Bay

    March 24, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We leave Noosa behind and migrate up the coast to Hervey Bay, famous for a great hump back whale migration in the cooler months between June and September. Whale watching is all the buzz during winter but for now, travellers are fewer and use Hervey Bay primarily to catch the Ferry across to Fraser Island. That’s our plan for tomorrow as we gear up for a 4WD adventure.

    DRIVE: Noosa to Hervey Bay (178km).

    CAMP: Ingenia Holidays Hervey Bay. We have set up here for three nights, but will spend night two slumming it in our tent on Fraser Island.

    We spot a pirate ship off the shores, apparently a couple live on the ship and sail these waters and offer tours of the bay.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia
    11

    4WD Adventure on Fraser Island

    March 25, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Sooooooo excited. Fraser Island today and an early morning start as we have a 6.30am briefing in time to catch the ferry across to Kingfisher Bay.

    We have hired a 4WD from a company called Fraser Dingo on a two day adventure. We have a vivid blue Toyota Prado (automatic) named “Bill” and included in the tour are our ferry transfers and Fraser Island camping permits. This will be perfect practice for our month long 4WD tour of the Kimberley’s in May/June.

    We loaded up our camping gear and supplies and after a full briefing, itinerary, tide times, speed limits, how to engage 4WD and what to do when bogged in sand, we set off a few km to River Head for the 8.30am ferry.

    The ferry takes about an hour. Once we reached Kingfisher Bay, Jen got quite excited and wanted to be the first to test our skills on the sand tracks. We set to 4WD and attacked the 30km/hr sand sliding and bumping along the way. Our journey starts on a tricky narrow two way section. Suddenly the tour buses are coming hurtling behind us and we have to give way to them. Jen quickly diverts over and into one of the many elevated sandy give way lanes and successfully negotiated a big tree root to safety. What an induction into 4 wheel driving but Jen is loving it... no fear!!!!

    World Heritage listed Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand Island and stretches 123 km. It is home the only place on the planet where rainforests grows in sand.

    The island has rainforests, tall eucalyptus woodland, mangrove forests, wallum and peat swamps, sand dunes and coastal heaths. It is made up of sand that has been accumulating for approximately 750,000 years on volcanic bedrock.

    As we have two full days, our day one itinerary takes us first to to the pristine Lake Mckenzie then to Eurong on the east coast to drive the beach at 2.00pm low tide, onto Mehanni Ship wreck, The Pinnacles and Eli Creek. (See separate footprint for places we visited).

    My turn to drive. The beach is a highway and we can drive up to 80km/hr with a couple of rocky sections to navigate and creek crossings. At one point we found ourselves chasing a plane as it came in to land as the beach doubles as a runway.

    After exploring Mehino Ship wreck, we visited the fresh water Eli creek and floated down to shore.

    With higher tides approaching, we head down the beach a little to Eli Creek campground to set up our tent, hammock and cooking stove and settle in for a peaceful and majestic sunset.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Lake Mckenzie, Maheno & Eli Creek

    March 25, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    In day one of our 4WD adventure on Fraser Island, we took the inland sand track to Lake Mckenzie. It’s simply awe inspiring. A remote and pristine fresh water lake, turquoise water leading to deeper blue with immaculately white smooth sandy beaches and surrounded by rainforest. It’s the perfect combination and it must be one of the most amazing locations on this planet.

    The backpackers had arrived in droves so we took Fraser Dingoe’s advice and followed a track to an exclusive secret beach adjacent to the main beach. We stayed for a while and once the tour groups headed off, aside from a few families, we had the place to ourselves. (See drone video).

    Back on the track, we had 16km of sand to navigate to get to the main village, Eurong. This is the gateway to Fraser Island beach so we disengaged 4WD and headed up the coastal beach highway into what seemed like a never ending horizon of white beach, blue sky and rolling surf.

    We followed a plane as it landed on the beach and continued up towards Maheno Ship wreck crossing Eli creek along the way. Our brief said slow down at creek crossings but I wasn’t paying attention to Eli Creek and we glided across like on a ride at Splash Mountain. Whoops.

    SS Maheno was an ocean liner belonging to the Union Company of New Zealand that operated in the Tasman Sea, crossing between New Zealand and Australia, from 1905 until 1935.

    She was washed ashore on Fraser Island by a cyclone in 1935 where the disintegrating wreck remains as a popular tourist attraction.

    Back at Eli Creek, we passed a scrawny dingo and stopped for a dip in the fresh water creek.

    A hard days work done... we head to our beach campsite before the tide turns and the sun sets.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Lake Wabby and the Lone Swimmer

    March 26, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We need to hit the beach at 7.00am low tide so we packed up the tent whilst watching the sun rise and prepared for another day of adventure.

    Our first destination for day two was to visit Lake Wabby. It’s about a 30 minute hike inland from the beach although we missed the beach sign and passed it by as we focussed on a plane landing in front of us. So we asked the pilot for directions and he said, “yeah mate, a couple of minutes back up the coast”.

    After finding the Lake Wabby sign, we hit the track as we had a limited low tide time to work to.

    After 1.3 km of inland hiking on sinking sand, I realised I had left the 12v fridge hooked up keeping the beer cool so I had to run back the 1.3km, unhook, and start the hike again. Jen wisely continued to Lake Wabby and I eventually caught up.

    Lake Wabby is a small freshwater, emerald colored lake surrounded by bush on one side and high sand dunes on the other. The lake is directly adjacent to the Hammerstone Sandblow, which is slowly moving into the lake. Eventually the lake will disappear under the sand.

    But for now, we have it all to ourselves. I set up the drone for a fly over and climbed a sand dune and unbeknown to me, Jen had gone for a swim in the lake. She was the “Lone Swimmer” practicing her stroke technique. With the sunlight glaring out my camera screen, I pressed record and manouvered the drone towards the lake.

    The drone footage of Lake Wabby and the Lone Swimmer is awesome so check it out.

    We hiked back to the beach and headed to Eurong before high tide and refreshed as we were a bit dehydrated even though we had plenty of water.

    From here, we took a return track to Lake Mckenzie stopping at Central Station on the way to view Wanggoolba Creek. Central Station was a substantial logging village in the early 1900s, even with two schools but was cleared after 1930 and rejuvenated with many tall trees.

    Wanggoolba Creek is a fresh water creek on Fraser Island with its crystal clear waters flowing over white sand through a rainforest valley.

    From here we returned to Kingfisher Bay to catch the 5.00pm ferry back to the mainland. Sad to be leaving “Bill”, our trusted 4WD but in the end, we survived the adventure and now Jen loves 4 wheel driving. FIVE STARS.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Hervey Bay to Seventeen Seventy

    March 27, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Following in the footprints of Captain Cook (well he had sea legs and we’ve got 4 wheels), we leave these shores called Hervey Bay and navigate up the coast to a famous place called Seventeen Seventy. Originally named Round Hill, this place was Captain Cooks 2nd Landing in Australia.

    To celebrate the bi-centenary (1970) of Captain Cook’s endeavours, Round Hill’s name was changed to Seventeen Seventy and has now become a tourist attraction frequented by travellers mainly because of its beach and sunsets.

    DRIVE: Hervey Bay to Seventeen Seventy (236km).

    Looking for somewhere to stop for a break & a bite to eat, we discovered the perfect cafe for two left handers - Mollydooker’s!! What is a Canadian restaurant named after a left-handed doing in a town with a population of just over 500??

    As it turns out, it’s the quintessential love story ( a bit like our own). Aussie girl meets Canadian guy in bar in Toronto. Decision has to be made about which country to live in. Girl “wins” & they move to her home town of Apple Tree Creek & set up a Canadian restaurant. Why Mollydooker’s? She’s left-handed of course.

    CAMPSITE: 1770 Camping Ground & Beachfront Cafe. We scored the last beachfront site & it’s the best. Site 5A is a bit tricky due to all its trees but we fitted perfectly & have an absolute cracker view across the beach & water. Facing west so sunsets instead of sunrises.

    We’re looking forward to simply sitting & enjoying the view - no major activities planned!!

    We have a 3 day weather event coming in so plenty of rain over the next few days.

    WILDLIFE: You guessed it - bush turkeys!!    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Captain Cook, 24th May 1770

    March 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    On this day, Lieutenant James Cook (captain of the ship but ranked Lieutenant) brought the HMS Endeavour in to make his 2nd landing on the shores of Australia (and first in what was to become Queensland).

    In fact, as you can see, Steve found the exact same rock that Cook set foot on, all be it, the tides out on this occasion...

    The famous portrait of Captain Cook was painted by one of Jen’s ancestors, Nathanial Dance (Dance being Jen’s maiden name) and it hangs proudly in the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London. The black and white drawing also done by Nathanial is in the National Portrait Gallery.

    On May 23rd 1770, Cook anchored at Bustard Bay; named for the wild bustard bird they shot and ate. Sure it wasn’t a bush turkey?

    They stayed one night on the ship before he, Joseph Banks & couple of others, went ashore to collect samples for Bank’s botanical studies. Their landing spot was in the vicinity of the very caravan park we’re staying in (developed in 1978), where a stream at the southern end enters the beach just north of the remaining mangroves.

    Cook made eleven landings on the eastern seaboard and ten of these were in Queensland. As the woods behind Round Hill Head and adjacent to Round Hill Creek were the locality of the first botanical type-specimens collected in Queensland, the area was recognised in 1989 as the Joseph Banks Environmental Park.

    Not a great deal of exploring today except to the memorial itself... weather rather inclement (it’s raining!) so we’re definitely doing the ‘chilling’ we planned.

    WILDLIFE: Some sort of stingray (see if you can spot his tail in our very blurry picture); blue crab    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    We've Bought A Boat

    March 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    After our 42nd day of living it tough on land, we have traded in and bought a boat... “mutiny”. It needs minor repair but will be “ship to shore” in no time!

    The rain has eased at 1770 so we had an opening in the afternoon to explore Buzzard’s Bay Lookout.

    Today is a definite slow day as we pack away as much as possible for an early morning start and a long drive (6.5hrs) inland to Carnarvon Gorge.    Read more

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    Flooded River at Carnarvon...Turn Back

    March 30, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    DRIVE: Seventeen Seventy to Carnarvon Gorge (532km).

    We leave Seventeen Seventy at 7.30am and set a course inland to Carnarvon Gorge on Dawson Hwy/State route 60. We are staying 4 nights a Takarakka Bush Resort.

    The imposing clouds had turned a dark bluey grey and we were heading for a big storm. Takarakka had contacted me in the morning and let us know that due to torrential rainfall, a number of the creek crossing were currently impassible and to check back at 2.00pm.

    We arrived at the last petrol stop, Rolleston and refuelled for the 100km final drive to Carnarvon. On route, we had lost mobile signal so had no way of knowing the flood levels of the creeks until we came over a crest and applied the brakes with some force. The road ahead which was the first of a number of creek crossing was flooded to 1.6m.

    Jen went in to test some of the depth... don’t worry, no salt water crocs 500km off track here... so it’s safe to enter.

    Nothing to do but to turn around and head 70km back to Rolleston as they had a petrol station, a pub/motel and a caravan park... yippee, the trifecta.

    CAMP: Rolleston Caravan Park
    A neat little park which obviously caters for backpackers during the fruit and farming season. Only 3 campers tonight.

    We were dead tired by this stage and after cleaning off some splattered Kangaroo from the undercarriage, it was already dead when we went over it... we didn’t even have the energy to set up the bed end flys on the campervan.

    So to complete the trifecta, we walked across to the Rolleston Pub/motel as it’s Saturday night in town and the place should be a buzz.

    We were greeted by three German backpackers serving behind the bar and a couple of locals propping up the bar listening to 80’s rock music... timeless. “Table”... same!!!

    The pub did however have a couple of specials on the menu, home made cottage pie and bbq pork ribs so we grabbed them before anyone else did plus a local beer and cider.

    We’re not too disappointed with the flooded creek and we slept well in anticipation of an update in the morning.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Canarvon Gorge & Mickey Creek

    March 31, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After yesterday’s turn back, we got the ok to continue on to Carnarvon Gorge and Takarakka Bush Resort. The first creek that was flooded yesterday had dropped from 1.6m to 100mm so good to cross. We crossed a number of creeks on route, some of them had quite fast flowing water but the Kluger and camper did it fine.

    Many stranded campers had left early in the morning and we were the first new campers to arrive at Takarakka.

    Camp: Takarakka Bush Resort / 4 nights
    Takarakka has big open sites to camp on by Carnarvon Creek and we are surrounded by tall Eucalyptus trees and Blackbutt trees. Birds chirp and are busy fossicking for food, Currawongs call in the distance and Kookaburras glide from vantage point to vantage point looking for opportunities (food).

    This is such a peaceful and relaxing place and there are plenty of short and more challenging hikes to do in the gorge.

    Carnarvon Gorge take you on an unforgettable journey deep into a spectacular step sided gorge, where towering white sandstone cliffs envelop a creek-side oasis.

    From Takarakka Bush Resort, we take the main road and a few more creek crossings for 4km to the Carnarvon Gorge Visitor Area. We wander on a short 3k hike in the afternoon to Mickey Creek Gorge, rock hopping over slightly submerged rocks to cross Carnarvon Creek which is still flowing high and fast after the rainfall. Platypus live in these waters so hope to see them at dawn or dusk.

    The first thing we notice in Carnarvon Gorge are the remnants of a severe bush fire that had swept through in January. Its so colourful, and feels like an Autumn’s day.

    Many of the tall tree trunks are charred but are rejuvenating to a soft brown or creamy white by shedding bark. The trunks of the ferns are a deep charcoal black and through fire, their seeds have opened up and dispersed. The leaves of smaller plants are copper and golden. Yet, the canopy is lush and the limbs of new ferns and Cycads have uncoiled and are a vivid dark green contrasting with the black fire damage. After the fire and now rain, there are indications of new growth and grasslands are beginning to reappear.

    Mickey Creek meanders over a clear sandy base with coverings of grasses and ferns and we are privileged to see the creek in full flow as often it can be dry.

    A side track leads us to the base of Warrumbah Bluff and we follow both sides of the gorge as they become taller and narrower. It’s like entering a cave, only with a skylight. and it feels like we are the first to visit this place since water and time formed its cavern.. We push on as far as we can but the final section is still flooded. It would have be a raging river through the gorge yesterday.

    WILDLIFE:
    Swamp Wallabies    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Ampitheatre & Moss Garden

    April 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A short walk down the main track from Wards Canyon is our next stop, Amphitheatre.

    As we approach, a narrow slit above a tall series of metallic stairways appears and we realise, this is the place Indiana Jones went missing...

    So we climbed the steps and the view back from where we came was a lush oasis with tall raking palms silhouetting the crystal blue sky.

    We enter the narrow slit which was a tall 100m long cavern leading to an impressive 60m deep chamber gouged from the rock by running water.

    The towering stone walls and natural skylight create an awe-inspiring atmosphere within.

    There are benches to sit and take it all in so we take one each and lie down to view the skylight above.

    After that humbling experience, we made our way to our final stop, Moss Garden. There’s a small waterfall here over a rock ledge into an icy pool and water is dripping constantly from the sandstone, sustaining a lush green carpet of Mosses, ferns and liverworts.

    See my slo-mo video which captures the water droplets dripping from the Moss. Yes you can use it for your slow down therapy!

    We head back to Takarakka for a well deserved “home made ginger beer and ginger biscuits”.

    Had to get that in as I remember reading The Famous Five as a kid and the description of food/treats always sounded delicious.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Art Gallery & Wards Canyon

    April 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    There is a multi day, 87km Carnarvon Great Walk for the most dedicated hikers taking in the rugged plateaus of the Great Dividing Range, aptly named “Roof of Queensland”

    We opt to do the most popular 14km hike on the main walking track which takes in the big 4 natural attraction; Art Gallery, Wards Canyon, Amphhitheatre and Moss Garden.

    There are lots of creeks to cross and many of the stepping stones are submerged so little hops become big hops and big hops end up with a splash and wet feet. All good fun.

    The rangers advise hike to the furthest point first then visit the sites on the way back. So we hike to Art Gallery which features over 200 Aboriginal engravings, ochre stencils and free hand paintings along a steep sandstone wall. It’s amazing to think these artworks and stories have been on the sandstone for a few thousand years.

    Got me thinking and without disrespect, but what would us white folk adorn as a stencil for millenia to come. It has to communicate something so I guess an outline of my IPhone 8 which would just look like a rectangular box.... oh Apple would tell you it’s much more than that! That’s it, it would be the Apple logo.

    After more quiet contemplation, we meandered down to Wards Canyon. It’s well protected from the elements with its own climate so a great place to cool off from the heat of the day.

    This is a special places as it shelters the world’s largest fern, The King Fern, Angiopteris evecta. This impressive green dinosaur is rare indeed and has survived here in this pocket, “Wards Canyon”.

    Excited to see the next two natural attractions, we retrace our steps through the blackened ferns.

    See Amphitheatre and Moss Garden on next footprint.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Sunset Hill over Carnavon Gorge

    April 2, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning, a Kookaburra eyed off my cooked breakfast and swooped to snatch a mushroom. He may have been a little disappointed as he may have mistaken it for a rasher of bacon. He proudly sat on the log next to me rubbing it in a bit so we had a play fight with a stick. Kookaburras act like your bestie, then when your backs turned, they move in and steal your dinner.

    Shiraz and two wine glasses in hand, oh and a torch in case it gets too dark, we climb up to Sunset Hill which is a short walk from Takarakka.

    We startle a few grazing kangaroos on the way up and once we reach the summit... alright, it’s only 500 metres, we find the perfect red gum seat and table to view the sunset from.

    The sun is setting fast over the distant gorge so we crack open the red and indulge. After a moment of contemplation... “chicken or turkey for dinner” , we headed back to our bush camp.

    On the way down, I spotted a 2m long grey bellied python slithering down the slopes (see pic). Indigenous to these parts, it’s rare to see the grey bellied python and its revered as one of the most venomous snakes in Queensland.

    Maybe the wines got to me so I think I need to lie down for a while!    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Boolimba Bluff Lookout

    April 3, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Our final day of expeditioning (is that a word) through Carnarvon Gorge. We leave early for a 900 step climb up to Boolimba Bluff Lookout.

    It’s very steep and hard going in parts but we have the 1,000 steps back in Melbourne so we are psyched up knowing we have 100 steps already in the bank. In parts, the steps become ladders and upon reaching the summit, there’s another 1km to go to reach the bluff.

    It’s the best view of the gorge and surrounding plateaus and a great way to take it all in. From above, there is little evidence of bush fires as all we can see is green canopy for miles. Although we missed sunrise, you have to get up at 4.am and do the track, there are clouds on the horizon which give the gorge and surroundings great depth. Any day would be awesome up here, even a storm.

    I give my ‘standing on one foot on edge of cliff’ a go and in one shot, myself and Jen are jostling each other, assume to throw each other off the cliff. It ended up 50:50 so both survived.

    Hiking In the bush makes one very tired so I was cocooned by 8.00pm. Jen had snuck out with a torch and went to visit the place where they do star gazing. It’s more open and free from canopy so a great place to see The Galaxy, Milky Way, Mars, Star Bar... Jen must have had chocolate on her mind.

    Anyhow, on her return, she crossed paths with a 2m python and watched it pass by at a safe distance. Must be similar to my grey bellied python. I was still on another planet when Jen returned so she told me the story of her encounter in the morning and I told her “she’s dreamin” but no... she was Adam Ant.    Read more

  • East Coast Australia

    Carnarvon to Mackay Via Mining Country

    April 4, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    DRIVE: Carnarvon Gorge to Mackay (628km)
    Another big drive ahead of us today so our usual 7.30 start. We visit Rolleston petrol station again to refuel. Must get me a loyalty card. The price of petrol has gone up from $1.30 at the start of our Aussie Adventure to $1.57 and we are paying bush prices. If our car could run on pure coal we would be ok as this is mining country. Maybe someone could invent the steam engine...

    The road ahead is long but occasionally, we pass rugged mountain ranges and inland National Parks to visit another day. Every so often, there is a turn off and a sign directing to a production mine. Although we don’t see many mines, road trains pass us by often carrying or collecting mining material and everyone out here has a work ute or a twin cab vehicle. We see a rail depot with a few kilometres of hauling carriages waiting to start their journey.

    We pass through Emerald, Capella, Middlemount, Nebo. These are some of the rural towns that rely on farming and mining to sustain their communities. They are all neat and tidy towns and they live and breath the land.

    CAMP: Big 4 Mackay Marine Tourist Park / 1 night
    We only have one night in Mackay, a stop over point before heading tp Proserpine and Airlie Beach tomorrow.

    Mackay's magnificent world-class Marina Village has a tropical ambience, with leafy palms lining the waterfront esplanade and a view beyond to luxury yachts, sailing boats, blue skies and tropical islands.

    The marina is next to sandy Harbour Beach and home to the Pine Islet Lighthouse, one of the only working kerosene lighthouses left in the world.

    It’s sunset and the locals are having a canoe race on harbour side (see video).    Read more

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