East Coast Australia

2月 - 5月 2019
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh
Travelling up the East Coast of Australia with our Campervan in tow. もっと詳しく
  • Walshies Down Under
  • Jenny Walsh

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  • 78足跡
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  • 10 Historic Murals Of Bowen

    2019年4月15日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today we parked the car in Bowen town and walked the streets to hunt for Bowen’s historical murals. There are 28 in total depicting diverse history from the town’s early settlers to modern day.

    We managed to view 25 of the 28 murals, 10 of which are presented in pictures for your viewing pleasure.
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  • Baz Luhrmann's Australia Filmed in Bowen

    2019年4月16日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    In December 2006, it was announced that Bowen was chosen as a filming location for a third of the production of Australia, directed by Baz Luhrmann and starring Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman, portraying the look of Darwin.

    A film set was built and production of the iconic movie commenced in May 2007.

    A number of the historic buildings in Bowen featured in the movie including The Grandview Hotel. Jen was excited to visit the hotel as this is where her heart throb, Hugh Jackman spilled sweat, blood and tears making the movie. Alas he was long gone...

    In its lifetime, The Grandview Hotel was destroyed twice by fire and twice by cyclone which only adds to the charming resilience of this astonishing building. With a recent chic modern touch to the design whilst preserving the history of the building, the hotel continues to hold a commanding corner position on one of Bowen's Main Streets.

    We take a trip though history and enjoy a beer and dinner at the hotel, soft shell crab for me and salt n pepper squid for Jen.
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  • A view of the Bays of Bowen

    2019年4月17日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Bowen has some spectacular beaches and ocean views. We start the day on top of Flagstaff Hill which commands views out to the Whitsundays and across to the rugged mountains that surround Hydeaway Bay. It also has a panoramic view of the town of Bowen.

    Situated less than one kilometre from the Bowen mainland, at the entrance to Port Dension is North Head Island and home to one of Queensland's oldest lighthouses. ... The lighthouse was home to a family for a short period of time - the children enjoying a daily canoe to the mainland for school. During low tide in Winter, you can walk across to the lighthouse.

    We move on to Rose Bay and return to Horseshoe Bay to climb the lookout and watch sunset. There is a 4.5 km hike starting at Horseshoe Bay popular with the locals. In fact, after spending a few days in Bowen now, we realise that it’s a quiet town that has not been burdened by mass tourism and the locals live a happy life surrounded by beautiful beaches.

    It’s a balance I know as the little town relies heavily on agriculture to sustain its community so although the tourism dollars are greatly welcomed, it’s refreshing to sea a beach town that is unspoilt by over development.

    I pose for a panoramic as the sun goes down and Jen finds a swing to sit on overlooking the bay.

    We have really enjoyed our stay at Bowen, the place grows on you and the weather is ever so perfect.
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  • YHA Magnetic Island

    2019年4月18日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    It’s amazing, the longer we travel up the coast of tropical Queensland, the younger we get. It must be the sea breeze or something. So we have ditched the campervan and left it on the mainland in Townsville and have taken the car on the ferry to Magnetic Island.

    We are staying at Magnetic Island YHA. In case you missed that, Youth Hostel Australia. Of course we fit in really well as our well travelled youthful glow and colour rinsed hair blend in seamlessly with the transient backpackers circling the bar like sharks for happy hour. Don’t be deterred, you too can fit in as there are young and old, families and people from all walks of life staying here.

    DRIVE: Bowen to Magnetic Island via Townsville (202km).

    CAMP: Luxury, an A framed cabin at Bungalow Bay Koala. Village, YHA, Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island / 2 nights.

    The Magnetic Island Ferry takes about 40 minutes to cross from Townsville. Blue sky and sunshine all the way with a nice breeze to catch.

    Magnetic Island was named by Captain Cook in 1770. As The Endeavour passed by the island, Cook’s compass went haywire so he documented the epiphany by naming the island “Magnetic Island”.

    We arrive at Nelly Bay ferry terminal and immediately seek something to eat as we had left early from Bowen this morning.

    We find a popular outdoor pirate themed cafe called Scallywags, a perfect pit stop for brunch. Everything with eggs and hot chocolate for Jen and a double shot latte for me. It’s taken me a while to find a decent coffee and this place hits the mark.

    Refueled and reenergised, we drive up the road to Picnic Bay and then drive back through Nelly Bay 4.5km all the way to Horseshoe Bay on the northern shore of Magnetic Island. This is the longest drive you can do on the island.

    We are a bit early to check in to the YHA so we grab a cold drink from the bar and settle on some giant bean bags...and mingle.

    Bungalow Bay Koala Village is set up really well with a range of shared, double and en-suite A frame cabins dotted around a tropical landscape. There’s also a camping area. The air con works a treat so I soon have our cabin ice cold.

    Horseshoe Bay is a short stroll from the YHA. Hang on, haven’t we just been to Horseshoe Bay in Bowen...? That’s right, another bay of similar shape but this one on Magnetic Island is an expansive orange sandy bay with a number of yachts moored in its protective cove. The street runs alongside the bay with palm trees and picnic benches on the beach side and a selection of cafes and restaurants on the other which have a real beachy vibe to them.

    It’s a cool place with los of activities to do from Jet Skiing to being towed behind a boat at speed on an inflatable. We decide to go for a kayak around the bay. The tide was low and on the eastern side of the bay are partially exposed coral reefs surrounded by seaweed. Jen spots three turtle heads pop up as we paddle around the bay, or it could have been one turtle head three times...

    After a happy hour cocktail at the YHA bar, mine was green and tasted like fairy dishwashing liquid, we walk to Horseshoe Bay for dinner.

    It’s Thursday night so Parma night at the local pub. Chicken Parmigiana plus a cold beer or glass of wine for $15. It’s a winner. Jen has the Barramundi even though it’s a Thursday... There are other places to eat by the bay but sometimes, you just can’t beat a good old Aussie pub meal.
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  • WWll Forts Walk With 360 Views

    2019年4月19日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    One of the most popular tracks on Magnetic Island, the 4km return Forts walk leads to historic WWII fortifications and infrastructure.

    The fort complex was constructed in 1943 during World War II to protect Townsville harbour from a feared Japanese invasion of Australia. The fortifications were armed with French 155 millimetres (6.1 in) M3 guns and manned by The Australian Coast Artillery Unit until the end of the pacific war in 1945.

    From the top of the fortifications are 360 degree views of the island and out to the pacific.

    Jen finds and climbs the range finder pedestal which was used in the war to calculate required distance and trajectory of the gun’s missiles to reach their targets. I think she is working out the math to use me as a human cannonball...

    We spot a Koala on the return trip and then take a short drive to the village of Arcarda and a swim at Elma Bay.

    It’s a typical Aussie Good Friday and the beach is busy with families from the mainland and a surf life saving competition is in progress. The water as expected is warm and refreshing. Magnetic Island gets 300 days a year of pure sunshine.
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  • The Day Before Tomorrow

    2019年4月20日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    DRIVE: Townsville to Lucinda (139km)
    It’s time to leave the YHA and Magnetic Island. It’s been a fun place to stay and packing up this morning was as simple as... throw everything in the car.

    Booked on the 11.40am ferry from Magnetic Island back to the mainland, we drive to Picnic Bay, source some good coffee and drive back to the ferry terminal. As luck would have it, an earlier ferry is just about to depart and there’s one spot left for our car so we drive straight on and off we go. That’s called ‘time travelling’ as we have gained an hour for our journey up the coast from Townsville to Lucinda, the starting point for our 4 day Hinchenbrook Island hike tomorrow.

    Townsville was severely flooded in February this year and although surrounded by mountain ranges, the area is quite flat and there are still signs of water receding in and around the sugar cane fields.

    It’s not a long drive today and we soon pass through Ingham and on to Lucinda.

    CAMP: Wanderer Caravan Park Lucinda
    We managed to grab the last site and the caravan park is chocka for the Easter holidays. It’s a big park and extremely well managed and has the best bathroom amenities we have come across.

    Lucinda is a fishing village and everyone at the park has a caravan, a twin cab 4WD and a fishing boat. The blokes walk around proudly wearing and displaying their favourite colourful fishing tee shirts promoting BCF or other marine businesses. You can see that they wear them like a badge of honour just like a footie or rugby top. It’s a different world.

    We are staying in Lucinda for one night and then storing the campervan here at the park for 4 days whilst doing our hike.

    It’s the day before tomorrow when we start ‘The Thorsborne Trail’ on Hinchenbrook Island, one of the best multi day hikes in Australia. We check our equipment and supplies for the hike and fill our hiking packs up to the brim. It’s all a bit heavy but we have to carry plenty of water, food for 4 days and our hiking tent. I sacrifice a few things and shed some weight but the emergency chocolate bars stay.

    We have an 8.00am ferry transfer to Hinchenbrook with John and Absolute North Charters. It will be Easter Sunday so we hope the Easter Bunny can follow our locator beacon.

    All of our food is packed away so we venture up to the local pub, there’s only one in town, and join the locals celebrating the long weekend. The place is packed inside, the rugby’s on the tv, beer is flowing and food orders are streaming in at the bar. We find one solitary table left outside and I go searching for a couple of chairs. It’s a vibrant place and everyone seems to be happy.

    As we tuck in to our grub, the full moon rises in the east and cars towing fishing boats are coming and going to the jetty as if changing from day shift to night shift. It’s the day before tomorrow and we are nervously excited about our hike.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 1

    2019年4月21日, Great Barrier Reef ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today is the start of our Hinchenbrook Island 4 day hike. We are uncertain as to what lies ahead and we document blow by blow to capture the highs and lows of our epic adventure.

    Shane from Wanderers Caravan Park loads us and our weighted packs in his Ute and drives us the 1km to Dungeness Marina. We have an 8.00am ferry departure to the island with Absolute North Charters. John, the owner and Brad are there to meet us and give us some tips on how best to traverse the island. Brad will be our skipper for the transfer. It’s not so much a ferry but a solid aluminium boat with inflatable sides.

    We meet Hannah and Nicki, two young fun adventurers based in Mackay who are also doing the hike, so we won’t be alone. They are studying medicine so they can be our mobile A&E.

    Access to and from the island is dependant on the tides. The sea is choppy as we ride each wave up the eastern side of Hinchenbrook. The view of the island is spectacular, with massive rugged peaks partially covered by foreboding clouds and rainforest that runs right down to the beach. Its like the opening scene of Jurassic Park, only in this place, crocodiles remain and the dinosaurs have long gone.. we think!

    The starting point for the hike is Ramsay Bay and Brad drops us off at the southern most point of the Bay due to tidal conditions. That saves us 500m of hiking and every step saved, counts on this island.

    Hinchenbrook seems to have its own climate with high humidity and plenty of tropical rainfall so we are happy that it’s a sunny dry day for the start of our journey.

    As we get close to shore, our instructions from Brad are to take hiking boots off, put our hiking packs on and jump in to wade through the near 2 foot of water onto the beach. Hearts racing and adrenaline pumping, we make it to the soft sandy beach and look back to see Brad and the boat disappear. Little did we know that this was the first of many steps we will take getting our feet wet.

    Now the official name of the hike is “The Thorsborne Trail”, an epic 4 day, 32km hike North to South on the East side of the island and graded ‘difficult’.

    There are designated camping spots en route mainly by the beach, usually with a fresh water creek nearby for supplies and all with crocodile signs warning of danger...!

    We decide to stick together with Hannah and Nicki and start the first section of our treck. Ramsey Bay to Nina Bay is 4km but will take 2.5 hours to complete as its difficult terrain and we need to carry 4 litres of water each. Not long Into the hike is our first obstacle, a fast and wide moving creek. We take our hiking boots off to stay dry but this became futile as around the corner was another creek, and another, so we ended up wearing them through the crossings.

    The second creek was rocky under foot and we hear a cry for help as Jen slips, her leg gives way and she ends up flat on her front with the heavy pack on top of her. We move in to rescue and A&E is administered sooner than expected by the girls. Worst for wear, with bruises, a bump on the head and a strained finger, Jen is patched up, shaken but not stirred, she bravely continues.

    It’s very humid and sweaty and with the weight of our packs, progress is slow and I think we drank about 1 litre water every 1.5km

    The 2nd section of day 1 is Nina Bay to Little Ramsey Bay, a 2.5km hike. At the southern end of Nina Bay, the trail crosses a rocky section by the shore and we slowly rock hop our way through and head towards the base of a small cliff. The trail climbs the cliff and follows the headland to Boulder Bay, now we are boulder hopping... and onto Little Ramsey Bay.

    We cross a creek flowing quickly into the sea and are relieved to see a campground sign. The campground is by the beach with an amazing backdrop and a fresh water creek running through smooth creamy brown rocks. There are metal rat proof storage boxes for our food and hooks to hang our packs away from the ground level... so why are we the only thing left on ground level...?

    We set up the hiking tent, take our soaking hiking shoes off and head up the creek for fresh water and a cooling swim.

    Before long, the sun disappears over the dark silhouetted mountain tops and we find enough energy to boil some water and make a freeze dried meal of Thai green chicken curry.

    Hannah and Nicki decide to try another camp site in a cove slightly further on and we flashlight each other from the beach in the darkness.

    It’s still humid and I decide to sleep in the hammock and keep watch for a while as the sound of the tide hits the shore. Jen is very sore and eaten by mosquitoes so she doesn’t get much sleep.

    Day 1 was exciting at the start but this was quickly replaced by soreness and tiredness as we realised how tough and challenging the terrain was carrying loaded hiking packs.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 2

    2019年4月22日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    It’s 6.00am and the daylight streams through the rainforest as a wake up call. We have to cross the tidal river on Little Ramsay Bay before 7.30am so we take John’s advice from Absolute North Charters and pack up before breakfast to make headway into day 2.

    Feeling a little recovered from yesterday, we check our hiking notes on the app. and start today’s 10.5km hike from Little Ramsay Bay to Zoe Bay., estimated to take 6 hours.

    We pass a camp site on the opposite side of the tidal crossing and see Nickie’s hiking shoes drying on a line but no sign of the girls or their tent. Jen calls out but no answer so we continue on assuming they are tucked away sound asleep. We later find out that they didn’t really sleep much and had moved their tent further into the rainforest away from the beach as they had crocodiles on their mind all night long.

    It’s 8.30am and the heat and humidity is already uncomfortable as we rock hop some more. From the southern end of the beach the trail heads south-easterly through a small gully to the top of a ridge. It’s already hard going uphill so we stop for breakfast and a rest at a stunning waterfall.

    Jen is still sore from yesterday’s trip and enthusiasm is down a bit but we have to crack on one step at a time to avoid the midday heat. We refill some water bottles and load up the packs.

    The trail continues south, descending to the Banksia Creek crossing on to the saddle between Banksia and Zoe bays, then into the Zoe Bay Catchment. Each creek crossing is difficult to navigate with fast running water and slippy boulders on foot. I take my pack across this crossing then take Jens’s so she can just focus on getting herself across. It’s always difficult to find the exit point on the other side where the hiking trail continues and we wearily search for the orange triangle marker pointing us in the right direction. These orange triangles are our lifeline as the pathway is rough, not clear or well defined.

    We pass through a succession of vegetation types, from dry open forest to rainforest and mangrove swamps. The going is slow and heavy (trudging) with many undulations in the landscape and wet on foot. At this point Jen gets snagged by a rainforest creeper with jagged teeth and struggles to get free. “Get me off this f... island” is the response so we rest for a while, have a drink of water and some chocolate and being half way, assess our next steps. It must get easier.

    After some rest, we move on and immediately hit a clearing that is shin deep in dark, murky swampy water without any clear direction. This is worse. We are literally walking through a smelly swamp plain not unlike Frodo, Sam and Gollum in Lord of the Rings on their way to middle earth. This is a test of resilience so we slowly plough on.

    We find dry ground for 100 metres then pass through several disorienting water logged palm swamps in tall rainforest between North Zoe Creek and Fan Palm. I was focussed on not getting lost and Jen was watching her tired feet with every step.

    Difficulty shall pass and eventually we are heartened to see the sunlight beaming into the rainforests and the magnificent sound of waves hitting the shoreline. We have finally reached the clearing at the Southern end of Zoe Bay and we follow the beach like 2 drunken sailors the last few hundred metres to the campsite.

    It’s such a relief to take our hiking packs and our sodden shoes and socks off. We both agree, that was the hardest 10.5km worth of hiking foot steps we have ever taken. We are still standing and have made it through a most difficult test through rugged unforgiving wilderness.

    We set up camp and our spirits are lifted as Hannah and Nickie arrive safely a couple of hours later. Our team reward for effort is a short walk to the base of Zoe Falls and a dip in the refreshing clear water pools of South Zoe creek.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 3

    2019年4月23日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We eat more food rations for breakfast and try to lighten the load by offering fruit to Hannah and Nicki but they are on to our tactics.

    Zoe Bay is a popular camping spot as there’s direct access by boat and its a short trek up to the top of Zoe Falls.. That’s our first destination for the day as we start the 7.5km hike to Mulligan Falls and our next camp..

    We drop our packs at the base of Zoe Falls next to the girl’s who had gone ahead and follow a track to climb to the top. It’s quite steep and one section has a notched climbing rope to pull yourself up on.

    Reaching the top, we are rewarded with the most amazing view of the island towards Zoe Bay. Plunge pools cascade over granite slabs and dive over the edge of the falls and we are soon sitting in a fresh water spa on the very lip of Zoe Falls.

    Moments in life make everything else worth while and this is one of them.

    Invigorated and re-enthused, we happily descend to the base by a slightly different track and realise that this track has an orange triangle on it.... oh no, we were meant to carry our packs up and over the falls. After a 2nd assent this time with the burden of weight, I suggest that we wipe our memory as if this was the first and only climb to the top today. Doh!

    Continuing along South Zoe Creek, the trail occasionally crosses narrow rocky tributaries. It then follows a distinct spur to the granite rock pavement of a saddle. We are soon engulfed in misty rain as we reach 260 m above the sea, the highest point on the trail. On a clear day the picturesque views include the Palm Island Group and Magnetic Island to the south. The misty rain at least keeps us cool and we stop to put our weather protectors on our hiking packs. The terrain is still difficult, our legs are aching but progress is more assured and we plod on.

    Reaching Diamantina creek which is wide and rocky and known to flood regularly, we rock hop, then decide to take the safest route across a fast flowing channel and get our feet wet.

    From here, the terrain takes a steady incline to open fern and grassy areas until it winds its way down to Mulligan Falls and our camp for the night.

    Mulligan Falls has a deep plunge pool at the base of a rapidly moving water fall. Its another opportunity to swim and refresh.

    Hannah and Nickie have “an escape from this island”” card and had pre arranged to get a boat transfer from Mulligan Bay this afternoon. So bon voyage to our great companions as we settle in to a night alone at Mulligan Falls.

    Freeze dried Coq Au Vin for dinner tonight with creamy mash so it went down a treat. Feeling a bit more up beat, we retire to the tent knowing we have one more morning to go.

    The rain pours throughout the night and it always sounds louder and more ferocious hitting the outside of the tent. It’s still warm though and those bloody mozzies or midgies. Whatever they are, they are annoying and no amount of mozzie spray has stopped them from feasting on our skin.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 4

    2019年4月24日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Yeah, we have made it to day 4 but it has taken some effort as we are tired, sore and bitten.

    All our equipment is wet but we are in no rush this morning and calmly dry things of as best we can and pack up camp.

    Alone, we take a skinny dip in Mulligan Falls and find our remaining fresh clothes to put on. It’s a 7.5 km hike down to George Point with 5km of it on the beach. The going is much easier and our pace is good as we need to cross the tidal creek before high tide kicks in this morning. We check the creek out and knee deep, take the shortest route across. Jen is startled by a fish and we joke that surely we can’t get eaten by a croc so close to the finishing line.

    I get mobile reception and txt John for an 11.30am pick up at Mulligan Bay camping area. The last part is always a drag and the finishing line can not come soon enough. We see Lucinda across the shore and the 5.7km long jetty which carries sugar cane to be loaded onto ships. Our shoulders are sore from carrying heavy packs so we stop and rest for 5 minutes. I pull my pack back on, take 5 awkward steps and spot the George Point sign on the corner of the bay, less than 20m away. We had stoped 31.88km into our 32km hike and salvation was just a few small steps for mankind...

    We laugh and celebrate survival, relieved that we have finally made it and our bodies can have a rest. “I’m not a celebrity, get me out of here” says Jen which kind of sums up how we feel even though we are elated to have completed the torturous hike on Hinchenbrook Island. We stretch out our backs on a lonely picnic bench etched with the names and dates of those before us or maybe in memory of those who never made it... Soon our ferry boat arrives and picks us up to transfer to... what another island.... aahh, it’s the island called ‘Australia’. Awe sweet!!

    DRIVE: Lucinda to Mission Beach via Cardwell (128km).

    After a much needed shower at the Lucinda caravan park, we collect our car and campervan and head up the coast to Mission Beach, stopping at Cardwell for a crab burger.

    CAMP: Big 4 Beachcomber Holiday Park, South Mission Beach.
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