The World on Two Wheels
After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. Leggi altro🇦🇺Melbourne
  • Chartres to Illiers Combray

    7 settembre 2017, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This morning we returned to the Cathedral to explore inside and see the massive stained glass windows. It was then time to get back on the bikes to continue our journey.

    The ride took us along a lovely succession of peaceful country roads. This really was the type of riding that we had been looking forward to, although anyone who had expected a "flat" ride would have another think coming. The road seemed to be always either rising or falling (mostly the former), which meant that it was by no means an easy day in the saddle.

    We arrived at Illiers Combray in the middle of the afternoon and went in search of our hotel - the Hotel Les Aubepines.

    The tiny town is best known for being the home of the French poet Marcel Proust. It has not changed much and has preserved the charm of past times.

    The Church of St. Jacques is the model for the church featured so prominently in the first part of Marcel Proust’s literary masterpiece, À La Recherche du Temps Perdu (Remembrance of Things Past). The church dates back to the 13th century and was rebuilt in 1497, with the aid of Florent d’Illiers, who fought alongside Joan of Arc.
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  • Rambouillet to Chartres

    6 settembre 2017, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Yesterday, on our final morning in Paris we packed our bags, confronted the lift for the final time (it didn't seem quite so small this time) and assembled in the foyer. The concierge had now become our friend and we exchanged a few jokes before catching a taxi and heading to Gare Montparnasse for our train to Rambouilllet. This is where we will resume our cycling adventure to cycle to Mont St Michel. Although we loved Paris dearly, we were keen to get back out onto the paths less travelled and see some more of the real France.

    Rambouillet is a very charming town, situated about 50 km south west of Paris, on the edge of the huge Forest of Rambouillet. It is also famous for being home to the historical Chateau de Rambouillet.

    Our bikes had been left waiting for us at the hotel. On first examination we were all vey impressed. The bikes all looked very new and each one had been neatly labelled with the name of its intended rider. After a short test ride we left them securely behind the hotel and went off to enjoy our dinner.

    It was only when we rolled the bikes out this morning that one of our riders made a most unwelcome discovery. Back in Australia Gordon had already firmly established himself as the undisputed King of Punctures. He seemed capable of getting a puncture on virtually every ride. He had previously experimented with different brands of tyre and tube, but the punctures always continued unabated. It was obviously some sort of special talent that he must have been born with.

    We had all been hoping that Gordon's ability to attract punctures would have been left behind in Australia. After all, these were completely different bikes with different tyres. We were even in a different hemisphere ! What could possibly go wrong ?

    It was only when all the bikes had been lined up outside the hotel that we noticed that one of the bikes had already suffered a puncture. And we hadn't even ridden them yet ! Closer examination revealed that the bike in question was bearing the name tag "Gordon". Typical, but not a great start to the day.

    Fortunately we had been provided with a couple of spare tubes and, about 30 minutes later, we were finally ready to get underway. We hoped that it would be the only such puncture Gordon would suffer during the remainder of the ride to Mont St Michel. (How wrong we were.)

    Our first stop for the day was at the nearby Chateau du Rambouillet. We had to admit that it certainly was impressive and the manicured gardens must require an army of gardeners to maintain. The thick gravel crunched under our wheels as we carefully rode to the front entrance.

    The rest of the day was spent riding to the city of Chartres. This city is most famous for its huge Gothic Cathedral. We all thought that it resembled the even more famous Cathdral of Notre Dame in Paris.

    Our restaurant for the evening was the L"Esprit de Gourmande", situated right alongside the Cathedral. We had been told that it was a top rated place and so we went in with high expectations, but maybe they were having a bad night. The courses were slow in being served and the time dragged on and on. Although the quality of the food was OK, the staff seemed completely disorganised and had a lot of trouble trying to sort out our drinks bill at the end of the night. It certainly was not what we had been looking forward to.

    After dinner we walked around the Cathedral to see the impressive light show which is projected onto its towering walls from a multitude of different angles. The late summer evening was warm and still, and the visual display was stunning. It had been another superb day (although possibly not so good for Gordon).
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  • A Day to Wander

    4 settembre 2017, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This morning we joined with David and Carol to have lunch in a lovely little cafe on the Isle St Louis. We had previously eaten here several times and knew that the Plat de Jour lunches were always excellent. We then had a brisk walk to Angelina's Cafe du The on the Rue de Rivoli. This place is one of the most famous tea rooms in Paris and is known as the place where the rich and famous love to be seen. Ten of us stumbled in, dressed in crumpled clothes and tried to look the part. We all failed miserably, especially Bob.

    The hot chocolate is almost enough to instantly clog every artery and the cakes certainly require a huge amount of determination to devour, however we all did our best to do the place justice. Even after the long walk back to our hotel we still felt bloated, so much so that the thought of dinner was enough to make us almost want to puke. Eventually we found the Monoprix Supermarket and bought a couple of punnets of raspberries. It was just about the perfect ending to another long day.
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  • Paris from the Heights

    3 settembre 2017, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Although we had been to Paris several times before, neither of us had ever been to the top of the Montparnasse Tower. We thought that this could be a suitable time to venture there, after all it is the highest point in the city..

    I was interested in seeing a new view of Paris. Maggie saw the queue and panicked. "I am not doing this" she yelled in my ear. "It's perfectly safe", I tried to reassure her. I felt her fingernails dig right into my palms, almost drawing blood. We shuffled forward and paid our 17 Euro each. Maggie threatened to have a turn, and I really thought that she was going to.

    "It's bigger than the lift in our hotel" I explained, knowing full well that no lift on the planet could possibly be any smaller. Somehow she stayed upright and made it into the lift. A few seconds later we emerged on the 56th floor. Maggie went a nasty shade of pale green, but somehow made it to the window. Amazingly she was soon so distracted that the heights were forgotten. Her camera started clicking and she started looking for the landmarks of the city that we knew so well.

    On the very top of the building is an outdoor observation deck, requiring another couple of flights of steps of climbing. I set off to the top, knowing that Maggie would never follow me. To my surprise, she did. We also met Greg and Andrea, who had also chosen this same time to visit one of the highest points in Paris. Apparently Greg suffers from a fear of heights too, but was also distracted enough to actually enjoy the experience.

    After an hour or so of picture taking and a pretty ordinary coffee, we took the trip back down and returned to our hotel. Later in the day we met up with Bob, Greg and Andrea and Gordon and Sue for a night cruise along the Seine. Although we had done it several times before, it is still a great way to see Paris by night, even if it was starting to drizzle a little.

    All seven of us then walked the riverbank all the way back from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. The rain had passed by and the evening was warm and still. A couple of wandering musicians were playing haunting French melodies. We stopped at a lovely Brasserie to enjoy coffee together, as after all we were in Paris and it seemed the appropriate thing to do. By the time we finally tumbled back into our room our feet were tired, but it had been a wonderful day.
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  • Paris - The City of Love

    2 settembre 2017, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This morning we caught the high speed (Grand Vitesse) train to Paris. It is an amazing feeling silently flying along at 300 kph on a French train. While we flew along the tracks we could see the magnificent rolling Burgundy countryside passing by outside. This is one of our favourite regions of France.

    I remember being fascinated as a child watching Dr Who for the first time. It was beyond my belief that the inside of the Tardis could be so much larger than the outside. Some fifty years later I had my own personal experience with an Inverse Tardis. I had carefully chosen our hotel using the Internet and the pictures of the rooms certainly looked large and luxurious. After a week of Internet starvation on the MS Andante we could not wait to explore the massive rooms we had booked in Paris and enjoy the benefits of unlimited high speed Internet access.

    The Villa des Princes was certainly located in a lovely part of Paris. The left bank is the home of the Latin Quarter, The Sorbonne University, the Musee D'Orsay and many other wonderful old buildings. After our high speed train trip from Basel to Paris Gare de Lyon we stumbled out through the crowds to the taxi stand and proceeded to do battle with the hundreds of others who were also waiting to grab a taxi. Some are obviously more experienced at this form of mortal combat so it took some time before we managed to pile our bags and ourselves into a vehicle and start moving. It took a good while longer for the driver to push his way through the impenetrable tangle of other taxis (all the while with the meter running) and finally emerge into the haphazard street network that makes Paris so bewildering for first time visitors.

    From the outside our hotel looked great. The concierge was even expecting us. "We have a lift" he proudly explained as if it was a brand new invention. We were directed around the corner and found the object he was so excited about. It was about the same size as a bar fridge. Maggie took one look in it and took off up the 3 flights of stairs to our room. I was left with all the luggage. I put one leg into the tiny lift and tried to pull in a suitcase after me. The door wouldn't shut. I squashed my face into the wall and pulled the case tightly against me. I pressed the button, hoping that the damned thing would not trap me inside. The door finally shut and the contraption slowly ground its way upwards. It was not pleasant, but sometime later I fell out onto the third floor landing. I had to repeat the process another two times before we were all reunited again.

    The room itself was good, or at least it would have been perfect if we had both been pygmies about 3 foot tall. It was quite a challenge to get both us and our luggage inside at the same time, but it was clean, the bed was comfortable, the bathroom was excellent and the air conditioning actually worked well. It was our home for three nights.

    After jamming our luggage into the room, we headed off on a short walk to the nearby Luxembourg Gardens. It was a perfect way to begin our short sojourn in Paris.
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  • We Reach Basel

    1 settembre 2017, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This morning the barge sailed to the small French village of Chalampe. That is where we commenced our last cycling day along the French bank of the Rhine River via Ottmarsheim and across the border to Switzerland..

    Our final destination was the city of Basel, situated where the borders of Germany, France and Switzerland meet. Although the main city is in Switzerland, some of the suburbs are in France and Germany.

    Basel also justifiably calls itself the “City of Gourmet” with more than 20 restaurants appointed a Gault Millau or Michelin rating.

    Our view of Basel was a little jaundiced by the somewhat grubby area that the boat moored at. We found ourselves surrounded by a motley collection of old factories, overgrown paths and a rather weird circus. We never did figure out what this circus was really about as it seemed to be just a group of young dropouts having fun. It was a somewhat strange ending to the first stage of our adventure.

    Tonight will be our final night aboard the MS Andante. Tomorrow we will be catching the train to Paris to begin the next part of our adventure.
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  • The Beautiful City of Colmar

    31 agosto 2017, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The day was spent riding to the town of Colmar and back again. The MS Andante remained moored at Breisach while we cycled. Maggie and I had previously visited Colmar on an earlier trip to France and immediately fell in love with the place. The combination of medieval, half timbered buildings and flower lined canals is the stuff of postcards.

    We spent some time riding and walking around the centre of the town and discovered that the city was just as beautiful as we remembered it to be. Many of the buildings are adorned with collections of flowers, hearts, chairs and just about anything else they could find. Each building is painted a different bright pastel shade and the combined effect is breathtaking. The bridges are also a work of art, some almost completely covered with floral arrangements. This city must certainly rank among the most amazing cities I have ever visited.
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  • Lots of Locks

    30 agosto 2017, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The most memorable feature of the day's cruising was passing through several huge locks. It was an impressive feat of boatsmanship to get the large MS Andante safely through each obstacle.

    We are now entering some of the well known wine growing regions and we could see large terraced vineyards on the sides of the nearby hills. The beautiful Black Forest is also not very far away.

    Today's ride and cruise took us to Rhinau-Breisach.
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  • A Visit to Strasbourg

    29 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Up till now we have been travelling in Germany, today was our first chance to cross the border into France. The region of Alsace-Lorraine is officially now part of France, but still retains a typical German character in its culture and architecture. This is especially true in the large city of Strasbourg.

    Many trivia quizzes contain a question about which country Strasbourg lies in. I suspect that many people incorrectly answer that it is in Germany, whereas it is actually situated in France.

    Our group found a beautiful restaurant by the river where we stopped for lunch. It would have been hard to find a more idyllic location. Some of the ladies then went off to buy some Alsatian lace, which the region is famous for.
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  • We Travel Under the Radar

    28 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We are already up to day three of the Bike/Barge section from Mainz to Basel. Due to almost non existent wifi on the boat I cannot access the Internet until we arrive in Paris in a few days time. In the meantime we are all having an amazing time. The weather has been superb for riding (25 to 28C) and clear blue skies every day. We are so thankful that we did not get the excessive heat that many parts of Europe have been experiencing.

    Last week there was a serious incident on the Rhine where a river cruise boat collided into 3 boats that were triple moored. The police have now banned all multiple moorings on the river and this has caused some confusion in the industry. For us it has just added an extra layer of interest, so we are not greatly concerned.

    We began our cycling by riding into the centre of Speyer. We found a large crowd of American tourists gathered outside the huge cathedral. I somehow let slip a derogoratory comment about Donald Trump and was promptly confronted by one of the Americans who apparently though that Trump was the best thing that had ever happened to his country.

    After cycling to Sonderheim we reboarded the boat to sail to Rastatt-Plittersdorf. The mixture of cycling and cruising is really quite magical and gives ample time to relax and enjoy the varied experiences along the way.
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  • We Set Sail on the Rhine

    27 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today was the day to formally begin stage one of our adventure. Our home for the next week will be the MS Andante, a large passenger "barge" able to carry around 80 passengers. Our Ghostrider group constitutes about 25% of the total, the rest are mainly German speaking so I don't think that we will be able to do much socialising with them.

    Over the next week we will be moving south along the Rhine till we reach the city of Basel. Each day consists of a mixture of cruiisng the river and riding our bikes. The schedule means that we are always back on the boat for our evening meal.

    Yesterday afternoon the boat cruised from Mainz to Gernshein where we moored for the evening. Today we began with another short cruise to Mannheim. That was the cue to unload the bikes (and it is quite an undertaking to unload around 70 of them) and begin our day's ride.

    The cycling was quite easy with numerous stops along the way. The main stop was the famous city of Heidelberg. Entry to the city was via a huge ornamental gateway. We were very impressed by the beautiful old city centre and arrived to find the entire central square was filled with colourful tables and umbrellas.

    After exploring Heildelberg, we resumed our ride to Speyer, our destination for the day.
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  • Claire Becomes a Sexagenerian

    26 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Our day began with a group breakfast at the ALEX cafe in the centre of town. The rat pack has now grown to 14 people so we are becoming quite a force in this city. During breakfast Greg announced that he and Andrea had discovered a beautiful ruin of a church and they would love to show it to the rest of us. I could have added that, if I really wanted to see any ruins, all I had to do was look around the table, but somehow Greg convinced the group that it really was worth seeing.

    After finishing the breakfast we formed a walking peloton with Bob Andrews and Douglas Lee staggering along in the rear. After a few hours sleep Bob insisted that he was no longer "in a lather", but I had to admit that young Douglas looked like he was still sleep walking.

    Greg took up the lead position, while the group followed behind. I could only hope that no one would see us, since everyone knows how much I deride such tourist groups. All Greg was lacking was a red umbrella - and a sense of direction. We wandered aimlessly back and forth through the streets. "It's this way", followed by "I think it's up there", finally "I don't know where it is". Talk about stating the bleeding obvious. I looked around and tried to pretend I had nothing to do with the rest of the group.

    Eventually Maggie saw a sign pointing to St Christophe's ruin (or something like this). With renewed vigour Greg set off again and, about 20 minutes later, we finally found the place. It was about 50 metres away from where we had breakfast.

    The women seemed excited and went off exploring the ruin. The men went off to explore the nearby bike shop. Douglas went to sleep standing up. About 30 minutes later we decided it was time to split up. People dispersed in different directions. Douglas staggered along, trying hard to remain vertical. I was starting to worry about the staying power of these young people.

    About 20 minutes later Douglas woke up enough to make a frightening discovery. No, it wasn't that he had had his fly undone the whole morning. It was far worse than that. He had lost his mobile phone. That finally woke him up. With his legs flying he set off back to the ruined church and, to his relief, found that it was still there. It would have been a terrible way to start the trip.

    Maggie and I then spent the rest of the day looking for the wine festival that David and Carol had told us was so amazing. Due to David's directions we never had any real chance of finding it, but did manage to see most of Mainz and much of the surrounding towns in the search. We finally just gave up and decided to sit by the river instead. It was a lovely place to watch the continuous parade of boats going up and down the river.

    The evening was going to be one of the early highlights of the trip, after all it is not every day that someone turns 60. In our group it is much more common for someone to be turning 70 or 80. Claire had previously announced that tonight would be her birthday party and that everyone was invited to come along and bring a present. She had even chosen the venue. It was called the Holy Ghost (Heiliggeist) Restaurant and it was in the middle of a huge converted church. The name certainly seemed appropriate for a group of Ghostriders and, when I found that it was right next door to our hotel, I readily agreed that it was a great idea.

    At 6.45 we were ready. I even put on my good pair of pants and was pleased that we had been able to remove some of the blue ink from the front of my groin. (see the infamous plane incident previously reported). The fine weather had broken and a heavy rain started pouring. We were glad that we only had about 20 metres to walk, while the others would have to walk across the town.

    I had tried to make the booking via the Internet from Australia, but my single word German vocabulary (Nein), did not make the process simple. Fortunately the Maitre D was expecting us and escorted us to our table. With the arrival of Lionel Rex, our group had swollen to 15. It would have been even more if Mary Kinch's flight had not been delayed in Melbourne. The delay had caused her to miss the connecting flight and, the last I heard from her she was stuck in Dubai airport. I felt sorry for her and glad that we had allowed several days to cover such contingencies.

    We took our places at the large table they had prepared for us and soon we were sweating profusely in the stifling humidity. We all made makeshift fans out of anything that was not nailed down (and a few things that had been nailed down as well). After much pleading we succeeded in getting the waiter to open the huge side door. That helped a lot, but I think that they might have been worried that we were about to do a runner.

    The food was very well prepared and the huge servings meant that much was left on the plates. We presented Claire with her presents and she seemed pleased with the sterling silver bicycle necklace we presented her with. A couple of rounds of "Happy Birthday" and some cheers completed the occasion. "But where is my cake ?" she asked. I looked around having to admit that I had not seen that one coming. "It was too large to bring on the plane", was all I could think of. It could have been true.

    While this was happening Bob Andrews had obviously got his second wind (but that is not why we wanted the door opened). He started off on one of his animated political discussions. With arms waving and chest pumping he proceeded to explain to Douglas why our politicians are all rubbish. Douglas responded by closing his eyes completely and wishing he was sitting at the other end of the table.

    An hour later we had finished our dinners, Douglas was still fast asleep under the table and we decided that it was time to retreat to someplace quieter. Douglas staggered off to bed with Bob continuing his political lecture right behind him. The rest of us wandered into town to find a suitable place for coffee. The rain had stopped, leaving the wet cobblestones glistening in the lamplight. This is the real essence of European cities.

    The evening concluded with coffees and another round of Happy Birthday for Claire. It had been a memorable night. Tomorrow we will bid farewell to the city that has been our home for four nights and board our boat for the first leg of our ride.
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  • We Discover a Real Genius

    25 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our time in Mainz has been an absolute delight. It has proven to be the perfect way to recover from the long journey and to prepare for the more demanding schedule once the cycling starts this weekend. After a comparatively late start we walked back to the centre of the old town looking for a place to have breakfast. We settled for a lovely restaurant right near the Dom. Outside the crews were busy assembling a huge stage and overhead tent for some sort of upcoming activity. We later discovered it is some sort of liturgical function to ordain a new bishop (archbishop, cardinal, pope, etc) and that all the media would be there for the event. I couldn't see that happening in Australia. We also noticed that the city was also preparing for another exciting event. All over the town they had raised huge flags with giant bicycle symbols on them. It was obvious that somehow word had got out about the arrival of the famous Ghostriders cycling team and that the town had pulled out all the stops to make us welcome.

    On the way back to the hotel we stopped by at the Gutenburg Museum. Johannes Gutenburg was the most famous son of Mainz and his invention of the movable type printing press in 1459 is recognised as the most important invention of the second millennium. It was his device that began the information revolution, the renaissance, the reformation and the "Age of Enlightenment". I thought we should learn a little more about him. Two hours later we were both so glad that we had taken the time, especially when our great ages qualified both of us for the extra low admission price of only 3 Euros each !

    The story of Gutenburg really is amazing. When he came up with his idea for the printing press he needed a financial backer and borrowed a considerable sum from his brother-in-law. He then not only had to invent the process of printing, but even had to perfect the formula for the ink. Over a period of three years his business was able to produce around 180 copies of the bible. The typesetting and printing process allowed them to print about 200 copies of the same page a day. The pages were set aside to dry while work started on the next page.

    Previously it had taken an expert copier around 3 years to hand copy a complete bible, so Gutenburg's process was a huge improvement. The problem was that he was not such a great businessman. The funds were mismanaged and after the first 180 bibles were printed, old Gutenburg was in trouble. He was taken to court and made bankrupt. The press was closed down and the production of bibles ceased. Although he had worked out a working method to mass produce books, it took many years before the presses started printing again.

    Of the original 180 bibles, only 49 are now accounted for and two of them are now in the Gutenburg Museum. These are stored in a massive vault on the second floor, along with several other priceless examples of early books. The value of these artefacts would be in the order of a 100,000,000 Euros or more, so the security is quite impressive. I learnt this when I lent over the glass case to examine them in more detail. A few seconds later a guard ordered me to "stop touching the glass". I felt suitably humiliated and apologised profusely. "I am just a stupid old Australian who does not know any better", I explained. We soon became friends and the guard then spent quite some time with us answering our questions. It was clearly evident that he felt it was a huge privilege for him to be able to be so close to these special books every day of his life.

    After our time at the museum we returned to our hotel for a short break. One thing that I find interesting about Europe is the ear splitting volume of their emergency vehicles. Unlike in Australia where you can hardly hear them, the vehicles here have sirens that could be clearly heard in the neighbouring countries.

    It was while we were in our room that I could hear a rising cacophony of sirens coming our way. I looked out the window to see a convoy of fire trucks, police vehicles and ambulances speeding past our hotel. They were certainly on a serious mission to get somewhere fast. The sirens faded into the distance, but a couple of minutes later I could hear more coming. The strange thing is that these were coming from the opposite direction. By the time the volume rose to true eardrum bursting levels I was surprised to see it was the same vehicles flying past in the opposite direction. They had obviously been going the wrong way. The faces on the drivers were as red as their fire engines. I just hoped that the fire was only a small one. I was even able to watch the spectacle of further emergency vehicles trying to U turn right outside our room. It brought back memories of those wonderful keystone cops.

    Later in the day we met Paul and Claire Cowen and went back to the town centre to have a drink with them. We noticed a rather dishevelled guy staggering around the square with his backback undone and a glazed look on his face. Hang on, the face looked familiar. It turned out to be Douglas. He had just arrived in Mainz after his harrowing journey from Australia.

    When we pointed out that his zipper was completely undone (his backpack, not his fly) he left his bag with us and retraced his wandering steps to make sure that he had not dropped anything. Fortunately all was OK, although he really did look like he needed a rest (maybe about 4 days would be sufficient). We welcomed him to Mainz and noted that we now had about 13 riders safely in the city.

    A couple of hours later I received an SMS from Bob Andrews (rider 14). Apparently he had just collapsed into the city also. His message read simply "I am in a lather and am heading to the shower". He had apparently forgotten the normal sequence of events and had soaped himself up before getting in the shower. The next 5 weeks will be interesting !

    Maggie and I had decided to have a simple picnic dinner in our room so went to the supermarket for supplies and then carried them back to the room. I could not wait to enjoy the fresh baguettes and fruit we had bought. The only problem was that David and Carol had stolen our butter. It was in their fridge and they were nowhere to be seen. I had to go out in search of another supermarket to buy some butter. I managed to find such a place, just a few short kilometres from our hotel and then staggered back into the room. By now I really was ready for our feast.

    We unpacked our goodies and pulled open the drawer to get the cutlery out. I discovered that the butter was not the only thing that David and Carol had taken - all of our knives, forks, spoons and plates were also in their room as well. I rang David and tried to explain that we were starving, but due to a hearing aid malfunction, he couldn't hear a word I was saying to him.

    After a very late dinner and a coffee by the river we finally collapsed into bed around 10.30 pm. It really had been a great day.
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  • We Take a Wander

    24 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It is staggering how much difference a few hours sleep makes. Last night we could barely string 2 sensible words together and it took a huge amount of effort just to walk from one hotel room to the one next door. Now, after a good 8 hours rest, we both felt like new people. Unfortunately when we looked in the mirror we found the same old faces staring blankly back at us.

    We had previously arranged with David and Carol and Gordon and Sue to have a late breakfast at the Hilton Hotel on the banks of the Rhine at 9.30 am. When we emerged from our room we saw David happily sitting on the outside veranda. He explained that he had already walked to the supermarket to buy his breakfast. This was something of a surprise considering our previous arrangements, however both David and Carol had obviously completely forgotten what had transpired the previous evening. That is one of the many challenges in taking a group of old people on a European bike ride.

    We tried to refresh their memory about the arrangements that they had previously agreed to and a short time later, the 6 of us were gathered alongside the river and enjoying breakfast. Of course, for two of the group, it was the second breakfast of the morning. During the breakfast we enjoyed some light hearted banter with the Columbian waitress who explained that she had come to Germany to complete her degree.

    After breakfast I explained that I had planned a short walk to help rid us all of the cobwebs of the long flight. I pointed out the route that I had worked out and assured everyone that it "would only be a couple of kilometres". We all formed a walking peloton and trudged off toward the large bridge across the Rhine to Weisbaden. By the time we reached the far side of the river Carol had already pulled up lame. '

    "I have a bone in my leg and can't walk any further", she explained. We had no other alternative than to abandon her by the riverside and continue on without her. And continue we did. The short walk developed into quite a long walk as we meandered along a series of bike paths that wandered in and out of the beautiful large trees. At one stage we had to make a large detour inland to cross the River Main. After about 8 km the other 4 walkers were starting to look at me with mutinous eyes. "I'm hot", Maggie complained. "And I'm thirsty" Sue added. "Not far now", I lied.

    Somehow we finally staggered onto the railway track and found a way to cross back over the Rhine to our side again. All that remained was the final 4 or 5 km back to the hotel. It had developed into quite a expedition, but gave us all a chance to enjoy a long chat and to get our muscles moving again after the prolonged inactivity of the plane. It was probably the very best thing we could have done.

    After a couple of hours we rejoined Carol who was hard at work resting on a seat by the river. She did not seem in the slightest disappointed that she had missed out on our 10 km expedition. The remainder of the day was spent in a much less energetic fashion and in the evening we enjoyed a lovely pizza dinner in a restaurant near the Dom. Later we wandered back to the Rhine to have a coffee in the twilight at the Big Easy Restaurant. A lone saxophone player entertained us with a succession of haunting melodies. The evening was warm and still and we watched the large river cruisers make their way up and down the river. We were quickly starting to develop an affection for this lovely city by the water.

    I decided to do a little research and discovered that the population of Mainz is around 200,000. During the war around 80% of the central city was completely destroyed so I guess that explains why there is comparatively only a small number of genuinely ancient buildings still standing. It certainly is a very clean city and we felt very safe walking the streets after dark.

    With the arrival of David and Karen Brown our team has now swelled to 12 and more will be arriving tomorrow. Our ride officially starts on Saturday, in the meantime we are determined to enjoy a restful time enjoying the city.
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  • The Long Journey Begins

    23 agosto 2017, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    There is no doubt that Australia is a LONG way from Europe. No matter which way you try to sugar coat the fact, there is no easy way to get from Melbourne to Mainz without undergoing a significant amount of physical and mental suffering along the way.

    The first step of the long journey began at 10 am on Monday morning when the shuttle bus pulled up outside our house. I was relieved that it was on time and was happier actually moving than just sitting around in the home waiting to get started.

    The driver grabbed our bags and stowed them into the rear compartment and then started on a circuitous route to Tullamarine. It soon became apparent that the bus had some sort of mechanical malfunction that caused it to veer alarmingly to the left every time he applied the brakes. The driver also spent much of his time with his eyes glued to his mobile phone, sending and receiving messages. I assume that the road rules that apply to other drivers do not apply to shuttle drivers.

    The combined effect of the faulty brakes and the divided attention meant that we spent much of our journey wandering dangerously from lane to lane on the freeway. It was not a relaxing way to start the trip, but fortunately the traffic was lighter than expected and we arrived at the airport earlier than anticipated. David and Carol Yates were already there and were waiting to greet us when we rolled our bags into the International Departures section. By now we were starting to feel that another amazing adventure was about to start.

    The lady at the Singapore Airlines check in desk must have had a bad night. Although we were only the second couple to check in, she was already in a bad mood. She looked up without so much as a semblance of a smile and grabbed our passports. In the process Maggie's frequent flyer card fell out and disappeared out of sight. When she asked for it back again she was told that it was "never there". The unhelpful lady was certainly not prepared to look for it and only grunted as she handed back our passports. It was not a great start. We had no alternative than to accept that it was gone and hoped that we would not need it later.

    Since we had such a long journey ahead I thought I should follow the classic piece of seniors' advice to "never walk past a toilet". I was somewhat alarmed to hear a concerned female voice right behind me as I was standing at the urinal. Even more alarming was the fact that the voice was warning me of all the myriad of urinary, bladder and impotence issues that can beset men my age. I looked around, wondering if I was being watched by some overhead camera, but came to the conclusion that it was just a recorded message. It seemed a cruel way to taunt someone and a surefire way to initiate a case of bashful bladder. I emerged into the terminal thinking that 1984 really had arrived.

    After checking in the luggage we rejoined David and Carol for lunch before moving to the departure lounge for our flight to Singapore. The time went surprisingly quickly and soon we were taking off and on our way. Seven and a half hours and a couple of movies later we were landing at Changi Airport. The first leg was over, but the big challenge still lay ahead. From Singapore to Frankfurt lay over twelve hours in the metal sarcophagus, 38000 feet above the ground.

    It was while we were entering the departure lounge for this second flight that the second mishap took place. David looked at Carol and asked "where is your luggage ?" It was nowhere to be found. They had obviously left it sitting near the seats somewhere in the airport. David took off with a look of panic on his face and reappeared some time later with the missing luggage. It could have been a disaster, but fortunately all was OK.

    Things actually went comparatively smoothly for most of the next 11 hours. I even managed to grab a few hours of broken sleep before I finally awoke at around 4 am and looked for something to do. I was sick of watching movies and pulled out the in flight magazine to thumb through.

    "Hey Maggie, look at this - they have a crossword we can do". I reached into my bag for my pen and snapped off the lid. Nobody had warned me that this is a dangerous thing to do in a plane. As soon as the cap was removed the entire contents of the pen exploded all over my hands. It was also all over Maggie's hands and the seatbelt. Some had even splashed onto my new trousers. We immediately grabbed for a packet of tissues and struggled to contain the navy blue torrent. All thoughts of the crossword were forgotten and we went straight into damage control mode. I staggered to the toilet, looking like some sort of elderly fool who had disgraced himself (probably because I actually was an elderly fool who had disgraced himself). The only thing I could be grateful for was the fact that it was still dark and most of the passengers were still fast asleep.

    I spent the next ten minutes using about 40 litres of water and a whole container of soap trying to remove the muck from my hands. It was only later that I discovered the damage to the trousers. I just wanted the flight to end, which it did about an hour later.

    We emerged from the plane tired and stressed but still alive. The flight had thrown up its challenges but we had prevailed. I knew from previous experience that the memories of the flight are soon forgotten once the fun part starts. David and Carol emerged from the plane in less than perfect condition. "That was the worst flight I have ever had" Carol explained. "The seats were tiny, the food was rubbish and everyone around us was sick". Well I guess that explained it. David also explained that he had suffered a serious "seniors' moment" when trying to put sugar in his tea. He saw the little packet labelled sugar and tore off the end before emptying the entire contents into his cup. He did not realise that there were actually two sachets in the packet and he had just tipped an entire sachet of pepper into his tea along with the sugar. Of course he had no alternative but to go ahead and drink the entire fetid fluid, or else he would have looked like a blithering old fart. Some days are like that.

    We stumbled our way through the chaos of the airport and somehow emerged with our bags, looking for the train station to catch the train to Mainz. It was very confusing for very old people who had come from the other side of the planet, especially when the employees of the train company also had no idea how to buy the required tickets. They were even more confused than we were.

    After about 20 minutes of frantic button pushing we finally retrieved something that looked like four tickets and struggled to find the correct platform. The first train to pass by was crammed to the doors with a throng of people. Considering the amount of luggage we had I was not looking forward to trying to survive in such conditions, but to our relief our train was only sparsely full and we were able to travel in comfort.

    About twenty minutes later we were at the Mainz Central Station and looking for our hotel. We were still far too early for check in and so decided to sit by the river Rhine instead. We soon discovered a lovely shaded outdoor dining area behind the Hilton Hotel. It was a relief to just sit and chat and relive some of our experiences. At our ages we quickly forget everything and therefore it is wise to share experiences before they are lost forever.

    At 1 pm we walked to the Hotel Havana and checked into our comfortable rooms. The owner has a fascination with all things Cuban (hence the name) and the halls are decorated with large Cuban images.

    We finished the day with a wander through the large market and bought some food for a dinner back at the hotel. With four sets of bloodshot eyes and four sets of drooling teeth we must have looked like a zombie's birthday party as we blindly tried to put food into our mouths. Somehow we battled to stay awake to around 7.30 pm before finally collapsing into our beds in an incoherent heap.
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  • I Crack Up Before I Even Start

    13 agosto 2017, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I always advise my team members that they should take things carefully for the final few days prior to departing on any new adventure. After all the months of preparation and planning, it would be a crime if someone suffered a serious accident or illness at this late stage.

    With little more than a week before we begin the 2017 European rides everything was finally nearly ready. The final travel details were received, my bags were (almost) packed, I had even booked the final few train journeys to complete our travels. All that remained was our final "training ride" before we could pack away our bikes and cycling gear. What could possibly go wrong ?

    When we arrived at the start of the final ride, even the weather was cooperating. The predicted rain was nowhere in sight, the howling wind had abated and all was ideal for a relaxing final few kilometres on the bikes. With 19 riders in attendance it was also a good turnout for a relatively short ride.

    Although Paul Cowen tried his best to have a crash in the first km and Gordon Logan suffered his twentieth puncture in the last couple of months, everything else went smoothly. Maggie and I arrived safely back at the car park, packed our bikes and bade farewell to our cycling friends.

    "See you in a couple of months", I yelled to the others as we pulled out of the car park.

    The only other obligation for the day was our attendance at our grandson's fifth birthday party at Croc's Kids Adventures in Pakenham. Nothing could go wrong there......

    We arrived at the party, feeling rather self conscious in our "super hero" costumes. The little kids had already tanked up with plenty of red cordial and were making more noise than a dozen locomotives. After trying to hear myself think for a little while I went in search of our youngest son and his wife. They are both in their thirties but have no trouble acting like five year olds.

    I found them in the middle of the African adventures, busily throwing soft foam balls at each other. As soon as I entered, I became the prime target. What choice did I have other than to retaliate by trying to throw some back in their general direction. I soon realised that my throwing arm is rubbish and certainly no match for a member of the Australian Dodgeball team. After trying a few more throws I retreated in defeat with a sore shoulder and a stinging right eye. I had been soundly defeated.

    It was only when I awoke the next morning that my stupidity became fully apparent. I found I could not lift my right arm above waist height without severe pain. Obviously my limp armed throws had been sufficient to cause significant damage to my shoulder. Growing old really sucks.

    My newly discovered injury did have some advantages as it meant that I could not hang up the washing on the line and it gave me an excuse for not doing the vacuuming as I had promised. On the other hand (or should I say other arm), I really do not need such an injury so close to the beginning of our big ride. I can only hope that it heals quickly.
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  • Unexpected News

    4 agosto 2017, Australia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    With only a little over two weeks to go till we head off to Frankfurt to begin our 2017 European rides I thought that everything was pretty much settled. I had typed up the latest itinerary, rechecked the flight details, updated my travel folder and even finally started my packing. Nothing usually changes at this late stage of the process. I was wrong.

    While driving back home from Inverloch to Pakenham I had a incoming call from Dana at UTRACKS. "I have some news about your trip", she started.
    Such calls usually don't end well. I tried to control the rising tension and sound pleasantly surprised.
    "Oh yes" I answered casually.
    "It's good news" Dana added
    I relaxed a little.
    "We will be including some extra dinners at no extra charge to your group"
    Now she really had my attention.
    "How many dinners ?"
    "Quite a few, seven in fact"
    This was starting to sound a little too good to be true, but she went on to explain that we would now be getting restaurant meals for virtually every night of our upcoming rides in France.
    My previous trips in France had already taught me that French food is almost invariably delicious and I could feel my taste buds start to tingle.
    "Are you absolutely sure ?" I asked, thinking that maybe she had us mixed up with some other much wealthier cycling group. "Could you confirm that in writing ?"
    The following day she did exactly that and I was presented with the full updated list of evening restaurants. I kept thinking that there must be some catch. Maybe they were all restaurants that had a terrible reputation who were desperate to drum up some more business.
    I immediately summoned up my old travelling companion - Mr Google and asked him for more information about each of the additional restaurants. To my amazement I discovered that they were all highly rated establishments that had incredible reviews. Some were even Michelin rated !
    At that stage I had to make the difficult decision to share this news with the rest of the group or keep it to myself. To my eternal shame I was even tempted to keep it a secret and then pretend that I had decided to treat everyone to the additional dinners out of my own pocket. My conscience got the better of me and I just had to share this windfall with the rest of the team. They were all just as thrilled as I was - especially Carol who spent the rest of the evening drooling over the Internet images of the meals served up by each establishment.
    If we were looking forward to getting underway before, we are now even more eager to get our wheels rolling and our mouths chewing. Only a few sleeps to go....
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  • Three weeks to go

    29 luglio 2017, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The final few weeks till any big trip always fly past at breakneck speed, however for Maggie and me, the pace has been a quantum level higher than usual. Our eldest son recently purchased a home in Pakenham and took possession of the keys about 3 weeks ago. Since it needed considerable work before he was ready to move in, we have been spending every day doing our own version of "The Block".

    After 3 weeks of pulling up carpets, jack hammering floor tiles, removing plumbing, repairing kitchen benches, countless hours of painting, hanging blinds, etc we are both exhausted. The finished product has been worth it and he was able to move in a few days ago.

    We can now finally direct our full attention to the preparation for this trip. I have finally got my bag from storage and have started collecting all the items that are required for this type of travel. In three week's we will be heading off from Melbourne to Frankfurt and then on to Mainz for the start of our cycling. I can't wait to finally get underway.
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  • It's All Over

    2 novembre 2016, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Wednesday November 2nd
    In Which our Odyssey really Ends

    There is simply no getting over the fact that Australia really is a long way from Europe. The trip is never going to be easy (unless of course you have the luxury of riding up the front of the plane). Although we had shared an incredible adventure and had collected so many memories, neither of us were looking forward to spending so long in transit.

    We packed our bags, hoping that somehow we could utilise the "Tardis Effect" to cram so much more in than we had on the way over. It is inevitable that souvenirs and gifts just seem to accumulate along the way and it is always easy to justify each purchase by claiming "it's not really that big" or "it doesn't weigh much". As we sat on the bed in our tiny room and looked at the huge pile in front of us, we both knew that the hour of reckoning had finally arrived.

    I started by emptying my case, looking for anything that could be discarded to save space and weight. I found about three sheets of A4 and proudly tossed them into the bin. "That's gotta help", I explained to Maggie. A few more tourist brochures followed the journey into the bin, along with a small booklet about cycling in Germany (it was in German anyway).

    I then started the reverse process of stuffing everything back. If you fold something up really tightly, surely that will make it weigh less ? Over the next few minutes the pile on the bed slowly reduced, the bag got fuller and I got more apprehensive. Finally the last item was jammed inside and I fought with the zipper, hoping that it was stronger than it looked. What a disaster it would be to suffer a zipper aneurism at this late stage.

    Somehow I got the zipper closed. That was the first challenge completed. I then attached the small electronic luggage scale and heaved the bag into the air. I struggled to read the small dial, but was relieved and elated when I saw that it read 22.9 kg. Since my luggage allowance was 23 kg, it looked like I had pulled off the impossible. Of course the real reason for this miracle was that I had relocated all the heaviest items to my carry on bag, and they never (hardly ever) weigh those on check in.

    Maggie's luggage had also grown exponentially over the past 10 weeks, but somehow still came in at under 20 kg. We felt like we had summited Everest.

    Since our flight was not due to leave till 8 pm we still had a few hours to experience London. Neither of us had any desire to go into the central city and were both happy to spend more time in the gardens we had grown to love so much. We negotiated for a late checkout and wandered back to the Kensington Gardens. It was a wonderful feeling to walk slowly, just soaking up the marvelous atmosphere of this place. The squirrels were as busy as ever and we watched one little fellow carefully burying his nutty treasure in the soil. After several minutes his job was finished and he left in search of more nuts. As soon as his back was turned, another squirrel immediately ran over and retrieved the nut and ran off with it. Such is life I guess.

    After a relaxed morning tea in the Lido tea house we slowly made our way back to the hotel, stored our bags and went out on our final foray. I had read about the famous "Speakers' Corner" and thought it might prove interesting. On every Sunday it is the place for anyone who wants an audience to stand on a soapbox and start speaking. This famous tradition is actually backed by a act of parliament that sets it aside as a bastion of free speech.

    Speakers Corner is located on Park Lane, right in the North East corner of Hyde Park. As we approached we could see fifty or more people gathered round the first speaker. He had a Bible in his hand and was carrying on a spirited debate with some of the audience who were obviously not convinced about what he was saying. We listened for a few minutes before moving on to a colourfully dressed guy who was talking about nothing in particular. His audience seemed attentive, but somewhat confused.

    After another meandering slow walk we arrived back at the hotel mid afternoon and waited for our taxi to the airport. The driver must have been eager as he arrived 30 minutes early and we were soon on our way to Heathrow. Although we were happy to be heading home after so long away, it was also sad to think that our long Odyssey was almost over.

    A few days earlier we had received an update from Etihad, informing us that the time of our connecting flight from Abu Dhabi to Melbourne had been altered.
    We would now have only about two hours in transit. That was good. As we sat in the plane waiting to depart Heathrow, the intercom informed us that our departure was going to be delayed by at least an hour. That was bad. That was really going to make it tight.

    We finally took off about 70 minutes late and somehow we both managed to get some short sleeps along the way. When we landed at Abu Dhabi we knew that the second plane would be on the point of departure. Running through the extensive terminal building, I was trying not to think of the consequences of missing the flight. Neither of us wanted to spend any time in Abu Dhabi.

    After a hectic jog through the airport we arrived at the departure gate as the plane was boarding, joined the back of the queue and hoped that our luggage could move as fast as we had. Outside the rising early morning sun was painting the desert sands bright red. It was going to be yet another scorching day.

    The next thirteen hours progressed slowly. The airline food was very forgettable, the seats were too small and I could not find a decent movie to watch. But at least we were on the final stretch.

    We touched down at Tullamarine just as the sun was rising on Melbourne Cup Morning. We were both amazed that our luggage had also made the tight connection and was also safely in Melbourne with us. Because of the change of flight times we arrived much earlier than we had originally scheduled and the shuttle bus that I had ordered would not be picking us up till 10 am. Another long wait ! We found a seat and settled down to watch the clock.

    The shuttle arrived at 9.30 but could not leave until 10.10 because another flight had been delayed. By this time we just wanted to be home and, about an hour later, we were. I unlocked the front door, turned off the alarm and looked around. Everything seemed unfamiliar. It was an eternity since we had locked that same front door and wheeled our bags to the shuttle to begin our adventure.

    After 37 different hotels and B&Bs, 5 plane flights, 12 train trips, 1 major ferry crossing and numerous minor ones, numerous taxi rides, 4 different bicycles, 1 rental car, 1 Vespa scooter, and hundreds of kilometres on foot, our trip was complete. It had been over two years since the original concept had been put together and it was such a relief that somehow everything had gone according to the plan. Although it had been the most complex cycling trip I had ever organised and with the largest group of riders, we had actually achieved what we set out to do. It might not have been climbing Mt Everest or crossing Antarctica on dog sled, but for a group of 60 and 70 year olds, it was still something we could all be justifiably proud of. It was certainly something that not many get the opportunity to do and I knew that we would never forget it.

    Thanks to Maggie for your tremendous support and patience throughout, and to all the others who helped make this dream a reality. I love you all.
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  • The Long Odyssey is Almost Over

    29 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Saturday October 29th
    In Which our Long Odyssey is Drawing to a Close

    We were both very conscious that today was going to be our final full day in London. By mid afternoon tomorrow we will be at Heathrow Airport, awaiting the start of the very long journey home. Neither of us felt like doing anything too energetic. After 10 weeks of almost constant physical activity and travel, we both were feeling fatigued and mentally drained. It was time to go home and we were ready.

    Although the sunshine had disappeared, there was still no sign of either wind or rain. We crossed Bayswater Rd and wandered back into the Kensington Gardens. This time we decided to continue to Kensington Palace, most famous for being the royal residence of Charles and Diana. It is obvious that thousands of people still make the pilgrimage to this place to pay homage to Diana's memory. Near the Serpentine there is a Princess Diana memorial fountain and walk. It seems a fitting tribute to someone who was so affectionately regarded by the British people.

    We paid our own form of homage to Diana by having an impressive morning tea in the palace tea rooms. We even went against all our normal travel principles by buying some souvenirs from the gift shop. (What an admission).

    Our wanderings then took us out of the park and into Notting Hill where we stocked up on baguettes and fillings for a picnic lunch. Although Hyde and Kensington Parks are really amazing places, they do suffer from a shortage of seats and it took us some time to find a free seat for our picnic. It happened to be right alongside the Round Pond and we were worried that we would be overrun by thousands of hungry birds. I made an early statement by stamping my foot and making a raucous sound to let the birds know that the lunch was ours, not theirs. It must have worked because we were about to share a lovely time together, reminiscing about the adventure we had shared together. It really had been something special.

    Since we will be starting our return journey tomorrow, this will be (almost) the final entry in this blog. I hope that it has been informative and entertaining for anyone who has been following it over the past 70 days. We now look forward to seeing you all again in person.
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  • We Visit Mrs Windsor

    28 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Friday October 28th
    In Which we Visit Mrs Windsor

    A few days ago I commented that it seemed that all of the UK was inhabited by elderly, infirm and slightly lost people with old mismatched clothing. Although this was certainly our observation in the small villages of Dorset, Devon and Cornwall, after a couple of days in London I think we have discovered what happened to the rest of the population.

    In contrast to the shuffling elderly citizens of the rural areas we have been amazed at the huge numbers of young people that we now see all around us. And not only young, but obviously talented, ambitious and upwardly mobile as well. It also seems that everywhere we try to walk we are serious risk of being knocked over by the masses of serious joggers that are filling every public walkway. On the roads we have seen every possible type of luxury vehicle, however Mercedes seem to be the most popular choice, with a liberal assortment of BMWs, Audis, Porsches, Ferraris and even Lamborghinis thrown in for good measure.

    We quickly got the impression that, for anyone in the country with any aspirations for prosperity, London is the place to be.

    We began the day by walking our now familiar route out through the Kensington Gardens to the Serpentine, followed by morning tea at the Lido tea house. We had also decided that it would be a good idea to watch the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. After all, it was only a relatively modest walk further on through GreenPark to the Palace and I felt that the Queen would really appreciate a visit from us. The Ghostriders had always helped to celebrate her birthday by conducting a special ride to the city and I also suspected that Betty Windsor was a regular reader of our website. It seemed only fitting that we make a pilgrimage to the palace and watch her changing her guards.

    Today was the sunniest day we had enjoyed for some time and I could feel the warmth on my face as we followed the crowds toward Green Park. Maggie looked around and asked "Are all these people heading to the palace ?" I had to inform her that I suspected they were. And they were.

    Although we had arrived 45 minutes earlier than the scheduled 11.30 am time, the area in front of the palace was already crammed with thousands of onlookers.

    Dozens of police were already struggling to direct the masses. Hundreds of the ubiquitous "selfie sticks" were already in position to catch the elusive selfie in front of the guards. I quickly started to wonder why we had bothered, since this is not our scene at all. Maggie had already made up her mind that she wanted no further part of it.

    "Just wait for the start and then leave", I reasoned with her. She was not convinced. Hundreds more people were arriving with each minute that ticked past. I could feel myself being pushed and jostled on every side. A security helicopter hovered overhead. We both tried not to think of the possible nightmare of a terrorist attack at this spot.

    Finally a collection of marching bandsmen announced that something was happening. More guards with shiny breastplates on fine looking horses marched past. At least something was happening. I looked across at the windows of the palace. Was it my imagination or was that a familiar face inside one of the upper windows ? Perhaps it was the warm sunshine causing me to hallucinate but I could swear that I could see the vague outline of an elderly woman with a G & T in one hand and a dog's lead in the other. I waved enthusiastically, hoping that she would recognise the old guy with the white whiskers standing across the road.

    Whether she saw me or not was debatable, but after a few minutes we had had enough. Maggie decided to head back to the relative sanctuary of the Kensington Gardens while I headed off in the opposite direction towards the Thames. I felt like a serious walk to burn up some nervous energy and wanted to experience more of this famous city.

    I walked away from Buckingham Palace and headed east towards the Thames. This took me through the famous government buildings of Westminster, then through the grounds of the Home Guards and finally to the bank of the Thames.
    From there I followed the riverfront walking path north towards the centre of the city. It was still a glorious autumn day and the temperature was around 18C, making for wonderful walking conditions. The biggest danger I faced was of being flattened and trampled underfoot by one of the hundreds of overly eager joggers running along the same path.

    My walk took me underneath Waterloo Bridge and then Blackfriars Bridge on my way to the famous London Bridge. As I walked I could see a succession of impressive modern buildings on the other side of the river, including the famous Tate Modern Art Gallery.

    As I walked under the London Bridge I hoped that it would not choose that moment to finally fall down.

    The next major landmark along this route was the distinctive shape of the Tower Bridge and of the Tower of London itself. When I reached the elevated bridge I felt that it would be a suitable place to turn back and head for home. I had already walked well over 10 km and the GPS told me that I now had a 9 km walk back to the hotel.

    Turning inland I left the river and made my way along Towerhill, Eastcheap, King William, Cheapside Poultry, Newgate and Holborn Streets before joining Oxford Street. I knew that it would eventually become Bayswater Road and would take me all the way back to our hotel in Hyde Park. Along the way I crossed a succession of famous roads - including Regent St, Fleet St, Bond St and Park Lane. I could not help but feel like I was walking on a giant Monopoly board.

    I arrived back at the hotel around 4 pm. I was footsore and tired, having walked over 20 km through the crowded city. I was ever so glad to finally collapse on the bed and kick the shoes off.

    Later in the day Maggie and I returned to the French Cafe in Notting Hill for a delightful meal. We both knew that, with only one full day left in London, our adventure was now rapidly drawing to a close. Although this was a little sad, we were both very ready to return to the sanctuary of our own home again.
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  • The Queen's Bumbling Apprentices

    27 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Thursday October 27th
    In Which we Watch the Queen's Bumbling Apprentices

    On our first full day in London we had planned to have a low key time wandering the extensive gardens that were right on our doorstep. For anyone who had not been to London it is hard to convey just how huge Hyde Park actually is. Hyde Park itself covers a massive 350 glorious acres and forms part of a chain of parks that make a continuous green belt from Bayswater right through to Buckingham Palace.

    One of my favourite aspects of Hyde Park is the large number of squirrels that are continually scurrying around, looking for articles of food. For Londoners, Hyde Park is also a favourite spot for walking and playing with their dog. On any given day you are likely to find hundreds of dogs (mostly well behaved) running about and having fun.

    I was very pleased that the weather had improved drastically and we mostly had a blue sky overhead.

    Many of the trees had taken on the majestic colours of late autumn and the lawns were liberally covered with a carpet of fallen foliage. It really made for a lovely introduction to this huge city.

    We did not have to walk far before Maggie spied the first squirrel. It was a really curious little fellow that ran straight up to me and looked like it was about to climb up on my shoulder. I persuaded it to return to its tree and we continued our walk.

    A little further on we noticed a small group of very young, uniformed horsemen doing exercises. The eldest looked about 16, but they were all fully adorned with polished silver breastplates, fancy uniforms and spiked helmets. The serjeant looked about 20 and was barking instructions at the nervous novices, trying to teach them how to look like they knew what they were doing. There was a lot of horses jumping and rearing and sometimes a little cohesion.

    I wondered just effective such a group of horsemen would be as a fighting force. I guess they could wave their swords in the air and shout "Boo", if nothing else. After about 30 minutes the serjeant had tired of the process and ordered them to return to barracks.

    It had been a wonderful free entertainment in the Royal Park for us.

    We continued our walk along the Serpentine, the long waterway that cuts down the centre of the park. Alongside the water there is a lovely coffee shop called the Lido. It was a perfect place to enjoy a coffee while watching the actions of the people passing by.

    At the end of Hyde Park we turned left and walked for about 2 km to the famous Victoria and Albert Museum. I was pleased to find that the admission was free and we spent the next couple of hours wandering its huge halls and admiring the exhibits.

    In the evening we walked about 1 km along Bayswater Rd to Notting Hill and enjoyed a nice meal in a French Restaurant. By this time Maggie was beginning to flag and wanted to get back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.
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  • I Meet an Old Friend

    26 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Wednesday October 26th
    In Which I Meet an Old Friend

    Apart from the famous exploits of Francis Drake, Plymouth is also indelibly etched into history by an event that took place in 1620. The Mayflower set sail from Plymouth Hoe with 102 pilgrims in search of a new life in the New World. In fact Plymouth's story has always been based around the splendid natural harbour and wharf facilities. Modern Plymouth is home to the HMNB Devonport, one of three operating bases for the Royal Navy.

    Our train to London was not due to leave until 12.56 so we had a couple of hours of free time in the morning to further explore the area near our hotel.Since we had loved the waterfront region, that is where we headed. We were somewhat surprised to find the large open spaces almost deserted, apart from a small number of people walking their dogs. As we gazed out over the inlet, Maggie called me over with excitement in her voice.

    "Have a look at this, quick", she called.

    It did not take long to see why she was so excited. Making its way out of the harbour was a large, partly submerged submarine, escorted by three tug boats. It did not take long to see that the function of the surrounding boats was to keep curious boat owners from getting too close.

    Only a couple of days earlier I had read in the local newspapers that the UK was in the process of building a new, state of the art, submarine for the cost of 31 billion pounds. It seemed too high a cost to possibly be correct, but apparently it was. I could not help but think of what an incredible waste of money it was.

    We watched the submarine for some time as it was not a sight that we see in Australia. It slowly moved out of the harbour before diving below the waves. After completing a circuit of the waterfront we returned to the hotel, collected our bags and caught a taxi to the station.

    Soon we were seated on a train owned by the Great Western Railroad and on our way to London.

    It was hard to believe that after so many weeks of travel and so many dozens of hotels, this would be our final stop before flying back to Melbourne. The other thought on my mind was my missing VISA card. I was relying on the efficiency of the Royal Mail to get the card to London before we leave next Sunday afternoon.

    The journey itself took around three and a half hours. Most of it was completed at speeds between 100 and 160 kph, but I was surprised to find that the driver had saved his highest speed for the final 25 km of the trip into Paddington Station. It was a little unnerving to be racing through London's suburbs at 210 kph ! Fortunately he found the brakes in time and we safely pulled into Paddington Station a little after 4.30 pm.

    You cannot pass through Paddington Station without looking for some evidence of the famous Paddington Bear and we were excited to find a statue of that loveable bear right in the station foyer.A short taxi ride then took us to our hotel near Hyde Park. I had stayed in thiis area several times in the past and knew that Maggie would love it here.

    When we walked into the lobby of the hotel, the first question I asked was "Do you have any mail for me?" The receptionist put her hand under the counter and retrieved an envelope with my name on it.

    To say that I was relieved would be a huge understatement. My faith in the Royal Mail was greatly strengthened. If the same thing had happened in Australia, I suspect that I could still have been waiting a couple of weeks later.

    With that stress no longer hanging over my head I felt that we really were on the final furlong of what had been an epic adventure. It did not matter that our hotel room was about the same size as the postage stamp on the envelope, it was clean and relatively comfortable and, more importantly it was our FINAL hotel.

    The next bed we would be in would be our own.
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  • Catastrophic Discovery in Plymouth

    25 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ 15 °C

    Tuesday October 25th
    In Which I make a Catastrophic Discovery

    Our three nights in St Ives had been most enjoyable. We quickly learned our way around the maze of narrow streets and we had shared some delightful meals at some of the local restaurants. However all good things must come to an end, and it was now time to pack our bags into the rental car for the final time. Our plan was to drive the 120km or so to Plymouth, stay there for one night before catching the train back to London the following morning. It should have been a relatively easy day. It didn't turn out that way.

    Things went a little pear shaped right from the beginning. For some reason the GPS decided to torment us a little more by taking us a brand new way out of the city. We wondered why we were heading in an unfamiliar direction, after we had almost learned our way around, however we thought that maybe it was a good shortcut to Plymouth. It wasn't. It was a quick access to a navigational nightmare.

    Almost immediately we found ourselves jamming down a narrow walkway with a huge stone fence on either side. I just hoped that no car would appear around the next corner. But one did. We both sat looking at each other wondering who was going to crack first. The other driver was a young girl who seemed just as uncertain as me as to what we should do next.

    Since I was older, I indicated that I would reverse back, but she refused to move. I reversed back a little and stopped. She stayed still. I beckoned her forward. She stayed still. Curiouser and curiouser. Inexplicably she then started to hesitantly reverse back, veering wildly from side to side. I followed at a respectful distance, until finally we broke through to a wider section of road, where I allowed her to get past. I continued for a short distance before finding a driveway and U turning. I had decided to leave St Ives by the way we were already familiar with. This way seemed to a cruel practical joke.

    Soon we were cruising along a good A road and it looked like the rest of the day would be smooth sailing. The kilometres ticked by quickly. By mid day we started to get a little peckish and looked for a town to get some lunch.

    I turned off towards a likely looking town with the name of Liskeard, found a car park and walked the steep streets looking for the best cafe.

    We soon found a place and were working our way through heaped piles of food. At least we had solved our hunger problem. We walked back to the car and looked for the best way to get back to the main road to Plymouth. Like all English towns, the roads were completely confusing but we did find an alleyway that seemed to be heading in the right direction. It was only one car wide and only too late did we see what sort of mess we had driven into. The road did a series of tight switchbacks, steep and far too narrow for the large Vauxhall Mokka we were driving.

    I tried to approach the first bend and got stuck half way round. Two local lads came out to watch the fun. I could have murdered both of them. Maggie got out to lend her advice. I drove backwards and forwards. The wheels were skidding on the steep slope and we were about 2 inches from the stone walls on either side. Spinning the wheel furiously and praying for divine guidance, I somehow managed to get my camel through the eye of the (first) needle and then tackled the second switchback. It was real nerve tingling stuff, but somehow we escaped the jaws of death and regained the main road. No more detours I decided.

    One of the conditions of the car rental was that it must be returned with a full tank of petrol. I found a petrol station on the outskirts of Plymouth and decided that it would be a perfect place for the final tankful of fuel. I filled up and then walked to the cashier to pay. Out comes the wallet. I started looking for my debit card. Where was it ? I looked in every compartment of the wallet. No sign. It was gone without trace. My heart started pounding. Where had I last used it ?

    I returned to the car and both of us looked everywhere. No card. I figured that the last time we had used it had been when we paid for the B&B at ST Ives. I rang the owner and was actually quite relieved when he told me that I had left it in the machine. At least I knew where it was. My problem was how to get reunited with the card. The B&B owner arranged to post it to our hotel in London. He assured me that British mail is really good. I certainly hoped so. It had been a stressful time.

    Fortunately we made The Imperial Hotel in Plymouth without further difficulties or accidents. Our first impressions of both the hotel and of the city itself were both very, very positive.

    The hotel was a large distinguished looking building, very close to the famous Plymouth Hoe region of waterfront. Apparently it was originally built as the mansion of a naval admiral and had been converted at some stage to a hotel.
    With its high ornate ceilings, wide staircases, large windows and spacious rooms, it really was a lovely place to spend an evening. We soon regretted that we had not planned for more time in this lovely city.

    Although we were not due to return our hire car until the next day, we decided that we did not need it any more and that we could take it back a day early. The depot was only about 1 km from the hotel and we were soon back at the hotel minus the car. It was a bit of a relief to be free of the car and the related stress. From now on our exploration would all be on foot.

    Since the hotel was so close to the waterfront, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking the beautiful Plymouth Hoe region. The most famous ex resident of Plymouth is Sir Francis Drake. According to the legend, Drake was playing bowls at Plymouth Hoe when he was told about the invading Spanish Armada. He is reported to have replied that he had time to finish his game before defeating the Spanish.

    When he returned with stolen Spanish treasure on his famous ship The Golden Hind in 1580, Queen Elizabeth was entitled to one half as her share. The plunder was so immense that this accounted for more than the Queen's income from all other sources in that year. No wonder she rewarded him with a knighthood. Drake used some of his fortune to buy a huge mansion for himself in Plymouth.

    Drake eventually died of dysentery at the relatively young age of 55 and was buried at sea in a lead coffin. Treasure hunters still search for the elusive location of this coffin.

    There is no doubt that Plymouth is a handsome city. Unlike many English towns, the streets are wide, the traffic flows smoothly, there are many beautiful parks and the waterfront views are amazing. In fact, of all the places we had seen so far in our travels in the UK, this is the first place that I could actually consider living in.

    Tomorrow we will be catching the train to London and our 2016 European Odyssey will be drawing to a close.
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  • Rain in St Ives

    24 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Monday October 24th
    In Which it Rained (and Rained) in St Ives

    Ever wince we arrived in Amsterdam about 10 weeks ago we have been blessed with an incredible sequence of fine weather. But today it rained in St Ives. Each day of our ride we expected that the fine weather would have to finish, but day after day we enjoyed unbroken sunshine and warm weather. But today it rained in St Ives. We heard that the weather back home in Melbourne had been wet and cold every day since we left, however we almost forget what rain was. However it rained today in St Ives. In fact, it poured all day.

    We awoke to the sound of heavy rain on the window, we ate breakfast to the same sound and it kept us company almost till dinner time. In a strange way, we didn't really mind the rain. It gave us a great excuse to have a passive day, mostly spent in our B&B. It also seemed to fit the mood of the season. After all, it was now well into autumn and winter was not far away.

    The steady downpour finally relented late in the afternoon, allowing us to walk back to the harbour front for dinner. The crowds of the weekend had now gone and we were able to get front window seats overlooking the water. And my scallops were really delicious.

    This time we were able to find our way back to our B&B without getting lost. It is amazing what a difference a couple of days can make.
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  • We Go to the Theatre

    23 ottobre 2016, Inghilterra ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Sunday October 23rd
    In Which we go to the Theatre

    Our plan for today was simple - to explore the region near the westmost part of Cornwall. We wanted to drive along the coast as far as possible, taking our time to visit some of the tiny ocean front villages along the way.

    Our first brief stop was at Zennor, before quickly getting back in the car as it was freezing outside. The wind had picked up to near gale force and the wind chill factor must have been around 2C or less. Even with our high quality $15 Aldi rain jackets on, the wind seemed to chill to the bone. We had originally planned to walk along the final section of coastline between Sennen Cove and Lands End, but the miserable weather was making that look very unlikely.

    When we drove past a lovely looking coffee shop called "Heather's Cafe" in Pendeen, Maggie insisted that it was time for morning tea.

    She was also excited because she has a sister called Heather and that seemed to provide some extra reason for not driving past. We pulled up, battled to open the car doors against the wind, and staggered into the lovely coffee shop.
    I had to admit that it really was a perfect place for a cup of hot chocolate and their Rocky Road Cheesecake was a real treat. With our core temperatures temporarily elevated, we staggered back to the car and continued on our westerly way to Cape Cornwall. The proprietor of our B&B had advised us that this was a much nicer location than the famous Lands End and it was almost the most westerly part of England anyway.

    We pulled into the little carpark, handed over a handful of pounds for the privilege of parking and gazed at the wild ocean scenery in front of us. I had to admit that this part of the world does have a unique character. With the combination of treeless, windswept mountains, wild oceans, rugged cliffs and dark, stone cottages it certainly looked like it would be an unforgiving place to live. Maggie and I looked for adjectives to describe this type of location and the most appropriate word we could come up with was "bleak". I wondered what the local children and teenagers do for fun around here, or maybe they just leave as soon as they are old enough to do so..

    Although Maggie was too frozen to leave the car, I forced the driver's door open and tumbled out into the gale. Donning my woollen hat, pulling the thermal hoodie over the top of that and finally zipping up the Aldi rain jacket, I thought I was almost ready for the arctic blast that awaited me.

    I then climbed down from the car park and followed the walking path to the prominent outcrop of land that constitutes Cape Cornwall.

    With the narrow path and the precipitous drops to the raging ocean, combined with the pull of the the howling wind doing its best to throw me bodily into the crashing waves, it was something of a mental challenge to climb to the little stone chimney at the top of the highest point. I then took a few minutes to survey the scene before me. The sign explained how this used to be the site of a struggling tin mine before being donated to the nation in 1987 by the HJ Heinz company. It was good to see how the sales of millions of tins of beans had actually been put to a good use.

    After being almost frozen, I struggled back down to the car and resumed our drive to Lands End. As we approached this famous location it did not take us long to see that we were going to be very disappointed. It had been made into a money making amusement park of the worst possible order. With its tacky collection of dodgy food sellers, arcade rides and so on, we felt cheated that we had to pay so much for the brief time we parked in the car park. After a quick look around, we could not wait to get away from the place. What a disgrace to do this to such a famous location.

    While we had been having breakfast this morning another couple who were also staying at the same B&B overheard us discussing our plans for the day. "You must visit Minack's Theatre",they suggested. I had not even heard of the place, but once they started explaining what it was, it did ring a bell somewhere in the back of my mind.

    After the unexpected gem we had experienced a few days earlier at Clovelly, we added it to our list of objectives for the day. We were so very glad we did as it turned out to be the outstanding highlight of the day.

    The existence of this theatre itself is due to the untiring efforts of a rather eccentric lady called Rowena Cade. From a wealthy background she moved to this part of Cornwall in the 1920s and built an impressive mansion at the top of the cliffs. She then became involved in amateur theatre and decided to use part of the cliffside as the location for the staging of a production of "The Tempest" in 1932. The show was such a huge success that she made the design and construction of the Minack Theatre her life's work.

    The rest of her life was spent in developing this incredible ocean front location into one of the world's most incredible outdoor theatres. In spite of the exposed situation, it is actually used for six months of the year with a new production starting every week. Apparently around 70,000 people watch these productions every year and another 100,000 come to just see the theatre itself.

    I had to admit that it really was one of the most incredible places I had ever visited and I had to admire the tenacity of those who brave the elements to either participate in or watch a production here.

    On the day that we visited, the wind was so strong that it was difficult to stand upright. Down below the waves were crashing ceaselessly on the rocks, sending up huge clouds of foam and spray with each massive impact.

    After sitting and watching the spectacle for a short while we retreated to the sanctuary of the kiosk for lunch. Our table was right inside the front glass window and we sat mesmerised by the ferocity of the elements while we enjoyed a delightful Cornish "Cream Tea". it was another example of how the very best travel experiences are the ones that are not planned. It was certainly an experience we will never forget.
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