A European Odyssey

August - November 2016
In 2016 a group of 40 Australian cyclists completed a 6 week cycling adventure in Europe. This ride took them from Bruges to Budapest. It was an experience they will never forget. Read more
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  • 9countries
  • 70days
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  • 21.2kkilometers
  • 18.2kkilometers
  • Day 70

    It's All Over

    November 2, 2016 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Wednesday November 2nd
    In Which our Odyssey really Ends

    There is simply no getting over the fact that Australia really is a long way from Europe. The trip is never going to be easy (unless of course you have the luxury of riding up the front of the plane). Although we had shared an incredible adventure and had collected so many memories, neither of us were looking forward to spending so long in transit.

    We packed our bags, hoping that somehow we could utilise the "Tardis Effect" to cram so much more in than we had on the way over. It is inevitable that souvenirs and gifts just seem to accumulate along the way and it is always easy to justify each purchase by claiming "it's not really that big" or "it doesn't weigh much". As we sat on the bed in our tiny room and looked at the huge pile in front of us, we both knew that the hour of reckoning had finally arrived.

    I started by emptying my case, looking for anything that could be discarded to save space and weight. I found about three sheets of A4 and proudly tossed them into the bin. "That's gotta help", I explained to Maggie. A few more tourist brochures followed the journey into the bin, along with a small booklet about cycling in Germany (it was in German anyway).

    I then started the reverse process of stuffing everything back. If you fold something up really tightly, surely that will make it weigh less ? Over the next few minutes the pile on the bed slowly reduced, the bag got fuller and I got more apprehensive. Finally the last item was jammed inside and I fought with the zipper, hoping that it was stronger than it looked. What a disaster it would be to suffer a zipper aneurism at this late stage.

    Somehow I got the zipper closed. That was the first challenge completed. I then attached the small electronic luggage scale and heaved the bag into the air. I struggled to read the small dial, but was relieved and elated when I saw that it read 22.9 kg. Since my luggage allowance was 23 kg, it looked like I had pulled off the impossible. Of course the real reason for this miracle was that I had relocated all the heaviest items to my carry on bag, and they never (hardly ever) weigh those on check in.

    Maggie's luggage had also grown exponentially over the past 10 weeks, but somehow still came in at under 20 kg. We felt like we had summited Everest.

    Since our flight was not due to leave till 8 pm we still had a few hours to experience London. Neither of us had any desire to go into the central city and were both happy to spend more time in the gardens we had grown to love so much. We negotiated for a late checkout and wandered back to the Kensington Gardens. It was a wonderful feeling to walk slowly, just soaking up the marvelous atmosphere of this place. The squirrels were as busy as ever and we watched one little fellow carefully burying his nutty treasure in the soil. After several minutes his job was finished and he left in search of more nuts. As soon as his back was turned, another squirrel immediately ran over and retrieved the nut and ran off with it. Such is life I guess.

    After a relaxed morning tea in the Lido tea house we slowly made our way back to the hotel, stored our bags and went out on our final foray. I had read about the famous "Speakers' Corner" and thought it might prove interesting. On every Sunday it is the place for anyone who wants an audience to stand on a soapbox and start speaking. This famous tradition is actually backed by a act of parliament that sets it aside as a bastion of free speech.

    Speakers Corner is located on Park Lane, right in the North East corner of Hyde Park. As we approached we could see fifty or more people gathered round the first speaker. He had a Bible in his hand and was carrying on a spirited debate with some of the audience who were obviously not convinced about what he was saying. We listened for a few minutes before moving on to a colourfully dressed guy who was talking about nothing in particular. His audience seemed attentive, but somewhat confused.

    After another meandering slow walk we arrived back at the hotel mid afternoon and waited for our taxi to the airport. The driver must have been eager as he arrived 30 minutes early and we were soon on our way to Heathrow. Although we were happy to be heading home after so long away, it was also sad to think that our long Odyssey was almost over.

    A few days earlier we had received an update from Etihad, informing us that the time of our connecting flight from Abu Dhabi to Melbourne had been altered.
    We would now have only about two hours in transit. That was good. As we sat in the plane waiting to depart Heathrow, the intercom informed us that our departure was going to be delayed by at least an hour. That was bad. That was really going to make it tight.

    We finally took off about 70 minutes late and somehow we both managed to get some short sleeps along the way. When we landed at Abu Dhabi we knew that the second plane would be on the point of departure. Running through the extensive terminal building, I was trying not to think of the consequences of missing the flight. Neither of us wanted to spend any time in Abu Dhabi.

    After a hectic jog through the airport we arrived at the departure gate as the plane was boarding, joined the back of the queue and hoped that our luggage could move as fast as we had. Outside the rising early morning sun was painting the desert sands bright red. It was going to be yet another scorching day.

    The next thirteen hours progressed slowly. The airline food was very forgettable, the seats were too small and I could not find a decent movie to watch. But at least we were on the final stretch.

    We touched down at Tullamarine just as the sun was rising on Melbourne Cup Morning. We were both amazed that our luggage had also made the tight connection and was also safely in Melbourne with us. Because of the change of flight times we arrived much earlier than we had originally scheduled and the shuttle bus that I had ordered would not be picking us up till 10 am. Another long wait ! We found a seat and settled down to watch the clock.

    The shuttle arrived at 9.30 but could not leave until 10.10 because another flight had been delayed. By this time we just wanted to be home and, about an hour later, we were. I unlocked the front door, turned off the alarm and looked around. Everything seemed unfamiliar. It was an eternity since we had locked that same front door and wheeled our bags to the shuttle to begin our adventure.

    After 37 different hotels and B&Bs, 5 plane flights, 12 train trips, 1 major ferry crossing and numerous minor ones, numerous taxi rides, 4 different bicycles, 1 rental car, 1 Vespa scooter, and hundreds of kilometres on foot, our trip was complete. It had been over two years since the original concept had been put together and it was such a relief that somehow everything had gone according to the plan. Although it had been the most complex cycling trip I had ever organised and with the largest group of riders, we had actually achieved what we set out to do. It might not have been climbing Mt Everest or crossing Antarctica on dog sled, but for a group of 60 and 70 year olds, it was still something we could all be justifiably proud of. It was certainly something that not many get the opportunity to do and I knew that we would never forget it.

    Thanks to Maggie for your tremendous support and patience throughout, and to all the others who helped make this dream a reality. I love you all.
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  • Day 66

    The Long Odyssey is Almost Over

    October 29, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Saturday October 29th
    In Which our Long Odyssey is Drawing to a Close

    We were both very conscious that today was going to be our final full day in London. By mid afternoon tomorrow we will be at Heathrow Airport, awaiting the start of the very long journey home. Neither of us felt like doing anything too energetic. After 10 weeks of almost constant physical activity and travel, we both were feeling fatigued and mentally drained. It was time to go home and we were ready.

    Although the sunshine had disappeared, there was still no sign of either wind or rain. We crossed Bayswater Rd and wandered back into the Kensington Gardens. This time we decided to continue to Kensington Palace, most famous for being the royal residence of Charles and Diana. It is obvious that thousands of people still make the pilgrimage to this place to pay homage to Diana's memory. Near the Serpentine there is a Princess Diana memorial fountain and walk. It seems a fitting tribute to someone who was so affectionately regarded by the British people.

    We paid our own form of homage to Diana by having an impressive morning tea in the palace tea rooms. We even went against all our normal travel principles by buying some souvenirs from the gift shop. (What an admission).

    Our wanderings then took us out of the park and into Notting Hill where we stocked up on baguettes and fillings for a picnic lunch. Although Hyde and Kensington Parks are really amazing places, they do suffer from a shortage of seats and it took us some time to find a free seat for our picnic. It happened to be right alongside the Round Pond and we were worried that we would be overrun by thousands of hungry birds. I made an early statement by stamping my foot and making a raucous sound to let the birds know that the lunch was ours, not theirs. It must have worked because we were about to share a lovely time together, reminiscing about the adventure we had shared together. It really had been something special.

    Since we will be starting our return journey tomorrow, this will be (almost) the final entry in this blog. I hope that it has been informative and entertaining for anyone who has been following it over the past 70 days. We now look forward to seeing you all again in person.
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  • Day 65

    We Visit Mrs Windsor

    October 28, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Friday October 28th
    In Which we Visit Mrs Windsor

    A few days ago I commented that it seemed that all of the UK was inhabited by elderly, infirm and slightly lost people with old mismatched clothing. Although this was certainly our observation in the small villages of Dorset, Devon and Cornwall, after a couple of days in London I think we have discovered what happened to the rest of the population.

    In contrast to the shuffling elderly citizens of the rural areas we have been amazed at the huge numbers of young people that we now see all around us. And not only young, but obviously talented, ambitious and upwardly mobile as well. It also seems that everywhere we try to walk we are serious risk of being knocked over by the masses of serious joggers that are filling every public walkway. On the roads we have seen every possible type of luxury vehicle, however Mercedes seem to be the most popular choice, with a liberal assortment of BMWs, Audis, Porsches, Ferraris and even Lamborghinis thrown in for good measure.

    We quickly got the impression that, for anyone in the country with any aspirations for prosperity, London is the place to be.

    We began the day by walking our now familiar route out through the Kensington Gardens to the Serpentine, followed by morning tea at the Lido tea house. We had also decided that it would be a good idea to watch the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. After all, it was only a relatively modest walk further on through GreenPark to the Palace and I felt that the Queen would really appreciate a visit from us. The Ghostriders had always helped to celebrate her birthday by conducting a special ride to the city and I also suspected that Betty Windsor was a regular reader of our website. It seemed only fitting that we make a pilgrimage to the palace and watch her changing her guards.

    Today was the sunniest day we had enjoyed for some time and I could feel the warmth on my face as we followed the crowds toward Green Park. Maggie looked around and asked "Are all these people heading to the palace ?" I had to inform her that I suspected they were. And they were.

    Although we had arrived 45 minutes earlier than the scheduled 11.30 am time, the area in front of the palace was already crammed with thousands of onlookers.

    Dozens of police were already struggling to direct the masses. Hundreds of the ubiquitous "selfie sticks" were already in position to catch the elusive selfie in front of the guards. I quickly started to wonder why we had bothered, since this is not our scene at all. Maggie had already made up her mind that she wanted no further part of it.

    "Just wait for the start and then leave", I reasoned with her. She was not convinced. Hundreds more people were arriving with each minute that ticked past. I could feel myself being pushed and jostled on every side. A security helicopter hovered overhead. We both tried not to think of the possible nightmare of a terrorist attack at this spot.

    Finally a collection of marching bandsmen announced that something was happening. More guards with shiny breastplates on fine looking horses marched past. At least something was happening. I looked across at the windows of the palace. Was it my imagination or was that a familiar face inside one of the upper windows ? Perhaps it was the warm sunshine causing me to hallucinate but I could swear that I could see the vague outline of an elderly woman with a G & T in one hand and a dog's lead in the other. I waved enthusiastically, hoping that she would recognise the old guy with the white whiskers standing across the road.

    Whether she saw me or not was debatable, but after a few minutes we had had enough. Maggie decided to head back to the relative sanctuary of the Kensington Gardens while I headed off in the opposite direction towards the Thames. I felt like a serious walk to burn up some nervous energy and wanted to experience more of this famous city.

    I walked away from Buckingham Palace and headed east towards the Thames. This took me through the famous government buildings of Westminster, then through the grounds of the Home Guards and finally to the bank of the Thames.
    From there I followed the riverfront walking path north towards the centre of the city. It was still a glorious autumn day and the temperature was around 18C, making for wonderful walking conditions. The biggest danger I faced was of being flattened and trampled underfoot by one of the hundreds of overly eager joggers running along the same path.

    My walk took me underneath Waterloo Bridge and then Blackfriars Bridge on my way to the famous London Bridge. As I walked I could see a succession of impressive modern buildings on the other side of the river, including the famous Tate Modern Art Gallery.

    As I walked under the London Bridge I hoped that it would not choose that moment to finally fall down.

    The next major landmark along this route was the distinctive shape of the Tower Bridge and of the Tower of London itself. When I reached the elevated bridge I felt that it would be a suitable place to turn back and head for home. I had already walked well over 10 km and the GPS told me that I now had a 9 km walk back to the hotel.

    Turning inland I left the river and made my way along Towerhill, Eastcheap, King William, Cheapside Poultry, Newgate and Holborn Streets before joining Oxford Street. I knew that it would eventually become Bayswater Road and would take me all the way back to our hotel in Hyde Park. Along the way I crossed a succession of famous roads - including Regent St, Fleet St, Bond St and Park Lane. I could not help but feel like I was walking on a giant Monopoly board.

    I arrived back at the hotel around 4 pm. I was footsore and tired, having walked over 20 km through the crowded city. I was ever so glad to finally collapse on the bed and kick the shoes off.

    Later in the day Maggie and I returned to the French Cafe in Notting Hill for a delightful meal. We both knew that, with only one full day left in London, our adventure was now rapidly drawing to a close. Although this was a little sad, we were both very ready to return to the sanctuary of our own home again.
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  • Day 64

    The Queen's Bumbling Apprentices

    October 27, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Thursday October 27th
    In Which we Watch the Queen's Bumbling Apprentices

    On our first full day in London we had planned to have a low key time wandering the extensive gardens that were right on our doorstep. For anyone who had not been to London it is hard to convey just how huge Hyde Park actually is. Hyde Park itself covers a massive 350 glorious acres and forms part of a chain of parks that make a continuous green belt from Bayswater right through to Buckingham Palace.

    One of my favourite aspects of Hyde Park is the large number of squirrels that are continually scurrying around, looking for articles of food. For Londoners, Hyde Park is also a favourite spot for walking and playing with their dog. On any given day you are likely to find hundreds of dogs (mostly well behaved) running about and having fun.

    I was very pleased that the weather had improved drastically and we mostly had a blue sky overhead.

    Many of the trees had taken on the majestic colours of late autumn and the lawns were liberally covered with a carpet of fallen foliage. It really made for a lovely introduction to this huge city.

    We did not have to walk far before Maggie spied the first squirrel. It was a really curious little fellow that ran straight up to me and looked like it was about to climb up on my shoulder. I persuaded it to return to its tree and we continued our walk.

    A little further on we noticed a small group of very young, uniformed horsemen doing exercises. The eldest looked about 16, but they were all fully adorned with polished silver breastplates, fancy uniforms and spiked helmets. The serjeant looked about 20 and was barking instructions at the nervous novices, trying to teach them how to look like they knew what they were doing. There was a lot of horses jumping and rearing and sometimes a little cohesion.

    I wondered just effective such a group of horsemen would be as a fighting force. I guess they could wave their swords in the air and shout "Boo", if nothing else. After about 30 minutes the serjeant had tired of the process and ordered them to return to barracks.

    It had been a wonderful free entertainment in the Royal Park for us.

    We continued our walk along the Serpentine, the long waterway that cuts down the centre of the park. Alongside the water there is a lovely coffee shop called the Lido. It was a perfect place to enjoy a coffee while watching the actions of the people passing by.

    At the end of Hyde Park we turned left and walked for about 2 km to the famous Victoria and Albert Museum. I was pleased to find that the admission was free and we spent the next couple of hours wandering its huge halls and admiring the exhibits.

    In the evening we walked about 1 km along Bayswater Rd to Notting Hill and enjoyed a nice meal in a French Restaurant. By this time Maggie was beginning to flag and wanted to get back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.
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  • Day 63

    I Meet an Old Friend

    October 26, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Wednesday October 26th
    In Which I Meet an Old Friend

    Apart from the famous exploits of Francis Drake, Plymouth is also indelibly etched into history by an event that took place in 1620. The Mayflower set sail from Plymouth Hoe with 102 pilgrims in search of a new life in the New World. In fact Plymouth's story has always been based around the splendid natural harbour and wharf facilities. Modern Plymouth is home to the HMNB Devonport, one of three operating bases for the Royal Navy.

    Our train to London was not due to leave until 12.56 so we had a couple of hours of free time in the morning to further explore the area near our hotel.Since we had loved the waterfront region, that is where we headed. We were somewhat surprised to find the large open spaces almost deserted, apart from a small number of people walking their dogs. As we gazed out over the inlet, Maggie called me over with excitement in her voice.

    "Have a look at this, quick", she called.

    It did not take long to see why she was so excited. Making its way out of the harbour was a large, partly submerged submarine, escorted by three tug boats. It did not take long to see that the function of the surrounding boats was to keep curious boat owners from getting too close.

    Only a couple of days earlier I had read in the local newspapers that the UK was in the process of building a new, state of the art, submarine for the cost of 31 billion pounds. It seemed too high a cost to possibly be correct, but apparently it was. I could not help but think of what an incredible waste of money it was.

    We watched the submarine for some time as it was not a sight that we see in Australia. It slowly moved out of the harbour before diving below the waves. After completing a circuit of the waterfront we returned to the hotel, collected our bags and caught a taxi to the station.

    Soon we were seated on a train owned by the Great Western Railroad and on our way to London.

    It was hard to believe that after so many weeks of travel and so many dozens of hotels, this would be our final stop before flying back to Melbourne. The other thought on my mind was my missing VISA card. I was relying on the efficiency of the Royal Mail to get the card to London before we leave next Sunday afternoon.

    The journey itself took around three and a half hours. Most of it was completed at speeds between 100 and 160 kph, but I was surprised to find that the driver had saved his highest speed for the final 25 km of the trip into Paddington Station. It was a little unnerving to be racing through London's suburbs at 210 kph ! Fortunately he found the brakes in time and we safely pulled into Paddington Station a little after 4.30 pm.

    You cannot pass through Paddington Station without looking for some evidence of the famous Paddington Bear and we were excited to find a statue of that loveable bear right in the station foyer.A short taxi ride then took us to our hotel near Hyde Park. I had stayed in thiis area several times in the past and knew that Maggie would love it here.

    When we walked into the lobby of the hotel, the first question I asked was "Do you have any mail for me?" The receptionist put her hand under the counter and retrieved an envelope with my name on it.

    To say that I was relieved would be a huge understatement. My faith in the Royal Mail was greatly strengthened. If the same thing had happened in Australia, I suspect that I could still have been waiting a couple of weeks later.

    With that stress no longer hanging over my head I felt that we really were on the final furlong of what had been an epic adventure. It did not matter that our hotel room was about the same size as the postage stamp on the envelope, it was clean and relatively comfortable and, more importantly it was our FINAL hotel.

    The next bed we would be in would be our own.
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  • Day 62

    Catastrophic Discovery in Plymouth

    October 25, 2016 in England ⋅ 15 °C

    Tuesday October 25th
    In Which I make a Catastrophic Discovery

    Our three nights in St Ives had been most enjoyable. We quickly learned our way around the maze of narrow streets and we had shared some delightful meals at some of the local restaurants. However all good things must come to an end, and it was now time to pack our bags into the rental car for the final time. Our plan was to drive the 120km or so to Plymouth, stay there for one night before catching the train back to London the following morning. It should have been a relatively easy day. It didn't turn out that way.

    Things went a little pear shaped right from the beginning. For some reason the GPS decided to torment us a little more by taking us a brand new way out of the city. We wondered why we were heading in an unfamiliar direction, after we had almost learned our way around, however we thought that maybe it was a good shortcut to Plymouth. It wasn't. It was a quick access to a navigational nightmare.

    Almost immediately we found ourselves jamming down a narrow walkway with a huge stone fence on either side. I just hoped that no car would appear around the next corner. But one did. We both sat looking at each other wondering who was going to crack first. The other driver was a young girl who seemed just as uncertain as me as to what we should do next.

    Since I was older, I indicated that I would reverse back, but she refused to move. I reversed back a little and stopped. She stayed still. I beckoned her forward. She stayed still. Curiouser and curiouser. Inexplicably she then started to hesitantly reverse back, veering wildly from side to side. I followed at a respectful distance, until finally we broke through to a wider section of road, where I allowed her to get past. I continued for a short distance before finding a driveway and U turning. I had decided to leave St Ives by the way we were already familiar with. This way seemed to a cruel practical joke.

    Soon we were cruising along a good A road and it looked like the rest of the day would be smooth sailing. The kilometres ticked by quickly. By mid day we started to get a little peckish and looked for a town to get some lunch.

    I turned off towards a likely looking town with the name of Liskeard, found a car park and walked the steep streets looking for the best cafe.

    We soon found a place and were working our way through heaped piles of food. At least we had solved our hunger problem. We walked back to the car and looked for the best way to get back to the main road to Plymouth. Like all English towns, the roads were completely confusing but we did find an alleyway that seemed to be heading in the right direction. It was only one car wide and only too late did we see what sort of mess we had driven into. The road did a series of tight switchbacks, steep and far too narrow for the large Vauxhall Mokka we were driving.

    I tried to approach the first bend and got stuck half way round. Two local lads came out to watch the fun. I could have murdered both of them. Maggie got out to lend her advice. I drove backwards and forwards. The wheels were skidding on the steep slope and we were about 2 inches from the stone walls on either side. Spinning the wheel furiously and praying for divine guidance, I somehow managed to get my camel through the eye of the (first) needle and then tackled the second switchback. It was real nerve tingling stuff, but somehow we escaped the jaws of death and regained the main road. No more detours I decided.

    One of the conditions of the car rental was that it must be returned with a full tank of petrol. I found a petrol station on the outskirts of Plymouth and decided that it would be a perfect place for the final tankful of fuel. I filled up and then walked to the cashier to pay. Out comes the wallet. I started looking for my debit card. Where was it ? I looked in every compartment of the wallet. No sign. It was gone without trace. My heart started pounding. Where had I last used it ?

    I returned to the car and both of us looked everywhere. No card. I figured that the last time we had used it had been when we paid for the B&B at ST Ives. I rang the owner and was actually quite relieved when he told me that I had left it in the machine. At least I knew where it was. My problem was how to get reunited with the card. The B&B owner arranged to post it to our hotel in London. He assured me that British mail is really good. I certainly hoped so. It had been a stressful time.

    Fortunately we made The Imperial Hotel in Plymouth without further difficulties or accidents. Our first impressions of both the hotel and of the city itself were both very, very positive.

    The hotel was a large distinguished looking building, very close to the famous Plymouth Hoe region of waterfront. Apparently it was originally built as the mansion of a naval admiral and had been converted at some stage to a hotel.
    With its high ornate ceilings, wide staircases, large windows and spacious rooms, it really was a lovely place to spend an evening. We soon regretted that we had not planned for more time in this lovely city.

    Although we were not due to return our hire car until the next day, we decided that we did not need it any more and that we could take it back a day early. The depot was only about 1 km from the hotel and we were soon back at the hotel minus the car. It was a bit of a relief to be free of the car and the related stress. From now on our exploration would all be on foot.

    Since the hotel was so close to the waterfront, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking the beautiful Plymouth Hoe region. The most famous ex resident of Plymouth is Sir Francis Drake. According to the legend, Drake was playing bowls at Plymouth Hoe when he was told about the invading Spanish Armada. He is reported to have replied that he had time to finish his game before defeating the Spanish.

    When he returned with stolen Spanish treasure on his famous ship The Golden Hind in 1580, Queen Elizabeth was entitled to one half as her share. The plunder was so immense that this accounted for more than the Queen's income from all other sources in that year. No wonder she rewarded him with a knighthood. Drake used some of his fortune to buy a huge mansion for himself in Plymouth.

    Drake eventually died of dysentery at the relatively young age of 55 and was buried at sea in a lead coffin. Treasure hunters still search for the elusive location of this coffin.

    There is no doubt that Plymouth is a handsome city. Unlike many English towns, the streets are wide, the traffic flows smoothly, there are many beautiful parks and the waterfront views are amazing. In fact, of all the places we had seen so far in our travels in the UK, this is the first place that I could actually consider living in.

    Tomorrow we will be catching the train to London and our 2016 European Odyssey will be drawing to a close.
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  • Day 61

    Rain in St Ives

    October 24, 2016 in England ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Monday October 24th
    In Which it Rained (and Rained) in St Ives

    Ever wince we arrived in Amsterdam about 10 weeks ago we have been blessed with an incredible sequence of fine weather. But today it rained in St Ives. Each day of our ride we expected that the fine weather would have to finish, but day after day we enjoyed unbroken sunshine and warm weather. But today it rained in St Ives. We heard that the weather back home in Melbourne had been wet and cold every day since we left, however we almost forget what rain was. However it rained today in St Ives. In fact, it poured all day.

    We awoke to the sound of heavy rain on the window, we ate breakfast to the same sound and it kept us company almost till dinner time. In a strange way, we didn't really mind the rain. It gave us a great excuse to have a passive day, mostly spent in our B&B. It also seemed to fit the mood of the season. After all, it was now well into autumn and winter was not far away.

    The steady downpour finally relented late in the afternoon, allowing us to walk back to the harbour front for dinner. The crowds of the weekend had now gone and we were able to get front window seats overlooking the water. And my scallops were really delicious.

    This time we were able to find our way back to our B&B without getting lost. It is amazing what a difference a couple of days can make.
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  • Day 60

    We Go to the Theatre

    October 23, 2016 in England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Sunday October 23rd
    In Which we go to the Theatre

    Our plan for today was simple - to explore the region near the westmost part of Cornwall. We wanted to drive along the coast as far as possible, taking our time to visit some of the tiny ocean front villages along the way.

    Our first brief stop was at Zennor, before quickly getting back in the car as it was freezing outside. The wind had picked up to near gale force and the wind chill factor must have been around 2C or less. Even with our high quality $15 Aldi rain jackets on, the wind seemed to chill to the bone. We had originally planned to walk along the final section of coastline between Sennen Cove and Lands End, but the miserable weather was making that look very unlikely.

    When we drove past a lovely looking coffee shop called "Heather's Cafe" in Pendeen, Maggie insisted that it was time for morning tea.

    She was also excited because she has a sister called Heather and that seemed to provide some extra reason for not driving past. We pulled up, battled to open the car doors against the wind, and staggered into the lovely coffee shop.
    I had to admit that it really was a perfect place for a cup of hot chocolate and their Rocky Road Cheesecake was a real treat. With our core temperatures temporarily elevated, we staggered back to the car and continued on our westerly way to Cape Cornwall. The proprietor of our B&B had advised us that this was a much nicer location than the famous Lands End and it was almost the most westerly part of England anyway.

    We pulled into the little carpark, handed over a handful of pounds for the privilege of parking and gazed at the wild ocean scenery in front of us. I had to admit that this part of the world does have a unique character. With the combination of treeless, windswept mountains, wild oceans, rugged cliffs and dark, stone cottages it certainly looked like it would be an unforgiving place to live. Maggie and I looked for adjectives to describe this type of location and the most appropriate word we could come up with was "bleak". I wondered what the local children and teenagers do for fun around here, or maybe they just leave as soon as they are old enough to do so..

    Although Maggie was too frozen to leave the car, I forced the driver's door open and tumbled out into the gale. Donning my woollen hat, pulling the thermal hoodie over the top of that and finally zipping up the Aldi rain jacket, I thought I was almost ready for the arctic blast that awaited me.

    I then climbed down from the car park and followed the walking path to the prominent outcrop of land that constitutes Cape Cornwall.

    With the narrow path and the precipitous drops to the raging ocean, combined with the pull of the the howling wind doing its best to throw me bodily into the crashing waves, it was something of a mental challenge to climb to the little stone chimney at the top of the highest point. I then took a few minutes to survey the scene before me. The sign explained how this used to be the site of a struggling tin mine before being donated to the nation in 1987 by the HJ Heinz company. It was good to see how the sales of millions of tins of beans had actually been put to a good use.

    After being almost frozen, I struggled back down to the car and resumed our drive to Lands End. As we approached this famous location it did not take us long to see that we were going to be very disappointed. It had been made into a money making amusement park of the worst possible order. With its tacky collection of dodgy food sellers, arcade rides and so on, we felt cheated that we had to pay so much for the brief time we parked in the car park. After a quick look around, we could not wait to get away from the place. What a disgrace to do this to such a famous location.

    While we had been having breakfast this morning another couple who were also staying at the same B&B overheard us discussing our plans for the day. "You must visit Minack's Theatre",they suggested. I had not even heard of the place, but once they started explaining what it was, it did ring a bell somewhere in the back of my mind.

    After the unexpected gem we had experienced a few days earlier at Clovelly, we added it to our list of objectives for the day. We were so very glad we did as it turned out to be the outstanding highlight of the day.

    The existence of this theatre itself is due to the untiring efforts of a rather eccentric lady called Rowena Cade. From a wealthy background she moved to this part of Cornwall in the 1920s and built an impressive mansion at the top of the cliffs. She then became involved in amateur theatre and decided to use part of the cliffside as the location for the staging of a production of "The Tempest" in 1932. The show was such a huge success that she made the design and construction of the Minack Theatre her life's work.

    The rest of her life was spent in developing this incredible ocean front location into one of the world's most incredible outdoor theatres. In spite of the exposed situation, it is actually used for six months of the year with a new production starting every week. Apparently around 70,000 people watch these productions every year and another 100,000 come to just see the theatre itself.

    I had to admit that it really was one of the most incredible places I had ever visited and I had to admire the tenacity of those who brave the elements to either participate in or watch a production here.

    On the day that we visited, the wind was so strong that it was difficult to stand upright. Down below the waves were crashing ceaselessly on the rocks, sending up huge clouds of foam and spray with each massive impact.

    After sitting and watching the spectacle for a short while we retreated to the sanctuary of the kiosk for lunch. Our table was right inside the front glass window and we sat mesmerised by the ferocity of the elements while we enjoyed a delightful Cornish "Cream Tea". it was another example of how the very best travel experiences are the ones that are not planned. It was certainly an experience we will never forget.
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  • Day 59

    A Visit to the Doctor

    October 22, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Saturday October 22nd
    In Which we Visit a Famous Doctor

    In the extremely popular TV show Doc Martin, the eccentric and always grumpy Doctor Martin Ellingham operates his dysfunctional surgery from the seaside town of Portwenn in Cornwall. In reality there is no such place as Portwenn, the TV show is actually filmed in the town of Port Isaac, about 10 km from Tintagel.
    Since we were already heading west from Tintagel to St Ives, we thought it might be interesting to make a small diversion and have a look at this famous location.
    As you get closer to the village it is easy to see that the TV show has obviously resulted in changes to the life of the place. There are numerous posters advertising "Doc Martin Walking Tours - only 10 pounds a head". While that might be a money spinner for some local entrepreneurs, I suspect that the newfound fame has proven to be something of a poison chalice for the rest of the small town.

    I wonder how the 700 permanent residents really feel about the busloads of tourists who daily descend on the village, trying to take selfies of themselves in every well known location used in the TV show. At least, while we were there, the production crews were nowhere to be seen, although there were still around 200 or more people who were wandering around the narrow streets. I could only wonder how busy it would be in the peak summer season.

    There is no doubt that it is a magic location, with its cluster of stone and white washed cottages clinging tenaciously to the steep cliffsides. There is a small working harbour, protected from the worst of the seas by two large concrete breakwaters.

    We spent around an hour wandering around the streets and lanes before resuming our journey to St Ives. It was a relief when we finally left the tiny, narrow (and somewhat claustrophobic) hedge lined back roads and turned into a wider motorway. This allowed me to drive without having my nose pressed against the windscreen and my fingernails embedded in the steering wheel.

    We arrived at the outskirts of St Ives early in the afternoon and soon discovered that, even at this time of the year, it was a very popular holiday destination.

    The narrow roads were blocked by a succession of cars, none of whom seemed to know where they were heading. This confusion was not helped by the large sign which advised all drivers to "Ignore the Directions of their GPS units".

    Well that's easier said than done. How else were we going to be able to find our B&B, if we did not rely on the Tom Tom ? We did not have the local St Iveways Street Directory, so just proceeded blindly into the spaghetti tangle of clogged alleyways that constituted the St Ives CBD. While squeezing along one miniscule road, the voice from the Tom Tom clearly told me to "TURN RIGHT". I did. It was a mistake.

    I soon discovered that I had turned too soon and was heading straight into a private car park, perched in a dead end on the side of a cliff. The car behind me probably had the same directions and had dutifully followed me into the abyss (as had the large Mercedes in front). We all ground to a halt, pondering what to do next.

    With some expert white knuckle maneuvering, I somehow managed to get far enough to one side to allow the Merc to turn around and creep past on his way out. The car from behind then pulled alongside, wound down his window and asked "What do you suggest we do now ?"

    How the hell would I know ? I am just an old man from the other side of the world. We don't have stupid roads like this Australia.

    I made some sort of suggestion that sent us both into a coordinated series of synchronised driving moves that would probably have scored at least an 8 if it was an Olympic sport. After about 5 minutes, somehow I had escaped the tangle and was inching along the correct road. There was still no sign of the B&B and the road signs made so sense whatsoever. A local walker saw our predicament and kindly came to our aid. He walked around the block looking for the Blue Sky B&B and finally returned with the directions we needed. About 5 minutes later we were sandwiched into the carpark (I hoped that the other cars never wanted to get out) and knocking on the front door. It was a relief to be able to finally relax.
    Later in the day we walked down to the township for dinner at the very popular Blas Burgers. The meal was superb, although things got a little complicated when we tried to find our way back home in the dark. Everything seemed quite different and all our familiar landmarks went missing. We wandered up and down a succession of alleyways, blindly looking for the church we had passed on the way down. It had obviously been moved. It took us around 30 minutes to eventually get back on the familiar track and stagger through the front door.

    We will be staying in St Ives for 3 nights and will use this time to explore some of the surrounding region between here and Lands End.
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  • Day 58

    In Search of Camelot

    October 21, 2016 in England ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Friday October 21st
    In Which we Search for Camelot

    I think you can learn a lot about a population from the state of their shops. In our travels around the counties of Dorset, Devon and now Cornwall we had seen a huge number of shops that look like they have not changed their window displays since the 1950s. It is common to see a shop window filled with a mixture of assorted goods, all in faded boxes, covered in dust and with a few dead flies scattered around for effect.

    While we were in Tintagel we were thrilled to find that the town had a laundromat as these are often very difficult to find in some countries. We bundled up our dirty washing, grabbed a pocketful of coins and went to the shop to catch up with our laundry. On entering the place, the first impression was one of perpetual neglect. The fronts of the two washing machines were covered in a greasy residue of numerous past washes and looked like it was a long, long time since they had been wiped clean.

    The same was true of the soap drawer - layers of gunk that had Maggie shaking her head in disgust. I have visited laundromats in many different countries but never seen one so neglected as this dump.

    To compound matters even further there were absolutely no instructions whatsoever as to how to operate the machines. We had no choice other than to keep feeding in coins until something happened. About 4 pounds later the water started to fill, so we assumed it had started. Since the display was broken it was impossible to tell how long the process was going to take.

    I sat down and looked around the place. Hanging on a peg was a bulging bag labelled "lost socks". It appeared that the locals were inept at counting their socks to check to see if they still had an even number at the end of each wash.
    Nearby was an even larger bag of crumpled clothing - presumably many people had trouble even remembering that they had put their clothes in the washing machine at all. On top of the dryer was a pair of old underpants, waiting to be claimed. This was getting ridiculous. It looked like the whole town was full of people who simply pooled all their clothes into some huge communal pile. Only in England I guess.

    This leads me to make some generalisations about the English population we had observed and met in our travels.

    Firstly, they generally are an overweight and very unfit lot. I have never seen such a concentration of people with mobility scooters, walking sticks and zimmer frames. We began to feel as if the whole population had trouble standing upright or moving from place to place. It also looks like they seldom visit the dentist, wear second hand clothing and probably have odd socks. From our experience at the laundromat, it may also be true that half of them are wearing someone else's underpants. They also seem to shuffle along the street, looking as if they are not quite sure where they are going. After what we had seen of the disciplined and conscientious work ethic of the Germans, we wondered just how the British ever managed to win the war.

    In spite of that, they are no doubt generally a friendly bunch, although they share a universal dislike and distrust of the French. Maybe that is because the French just have so much more savoir faire than they do. The typical English person does not seem to have much interest in maintenance or modernisation. The principle seems to be "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", in fact, on second thought, I would say that it is more like "if it IS broke, don't fix it either".

    After our experience at the laundromat we set out to explore the so called Tintagel Castle.

    This is a stark collection of ruins and relics that is precariously scattered over the sheer cliffs near the township. The interest in these ruins has been increased to near fever pitch because of the claims that they may be the ruins of King Arthur's Castle. Then again they may not. In any case, they certainly are spectacular and are great fun to explore.

    In order to wander the ruins you first need to hand over 7 pounds for the privilege (and NO there is no concession rate) and then navigate the vertiginous steps above the raging sea. It is not for the faint hearted and Maggie certainly had to confront her inner demons to make the crossing. I was so proud that she did manage to complete the walk and she was very pleased with herself and I am sure that it is not something she could have done even a couple of years ago.
    In this part of the world there is a lot of Welsh spoken and it was intriguing to see many signs in both English and Welsh. I love the Welsh accent but I had to admit that their language sounded like someone gargling in gravel and sea water.
    In the evening we went to dinner at a little Italian restaurant called the Olive Grove. It was a superb meal and the service was also great. It helped make up for the disappointment we had experienced the previous night at the King Arthur's Arms Pub.
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