A Feast of French Cycling

august - oktober 2017
In August 2017 a group of Australian cyclists travelled to Europe to complete a series of rides in Germany, France and the Channel Islands Læs mere
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  • Dag 53

    In the Footsteps of Simon and Adele

    12. oktober 2017, Frankrig ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    In 2006 Barbara McClintock wrote a delightful children's book called "Simon and Adele". It tells the simple story of two Parisian children on their way home from school. Although Simon had been warned to take care of his things, somehow he manages to progressively lose everything he had been carrying. Each object is lost in a distinct part of central Paris.

    Since we both love the book, Maggie had the idea of recreating the walk taken by Simon and Adele. The only trouble is that the book is set in the Paris of 1907 and the Paris of today has changed quite a bit. Nevertheless it seemed like a good way to pass a lovely autumn day and so we set off with map and notes in hand.

    Our first stop was the Jardin de Plantes (Garden of Plants). This is a huge park which is devoted to the Sciences of Botany, Geology and Palaeontology. It is also home to the Menagerie (Zoo) of Paris. The warm sunshine combined with the huge distances we had walked yesterday to ensure that our energy levels started to wane rather rapidly.

    I don't know how Simon and Adele walked such a long distance home each day, but by the time we had made our way back to the Luxembourg Gardens, we had realised that there was no way we were going to complete the entire walk in one day. We did however have fun placing a couple of little cutout figures of Simon and Adele in various locations and then photographing them for our grandkids.

    While we were walking around the streets it was interesting to note all the diverse means of transport that were being used. Many locals like to move around the city on small scooters. Many of these scooters are now battery powered and can zoom along the footpaths quite fast. We also noticed several using the much more high tech approach by riding along on an air wheel. These are a sort of single wheeled version of a Segway. We even were passed by a girl riding a unicycle along the busy footpath. In Paris no one seems to raise an eyelid, no matter how unusual the means of transport is.

    At the end of the afternoon we purchased some Apple Cider, a baguette and a large serving of tartiflette (a French dish containing potato, cheese, bacon and onion) from an outdoor market and had a picnic dinner in our hotel room. It was a lovely way to complete our second last day in Paris. After dark we went for yet another walk and stopped to listen to a saxophone player playing jazz in a small cafe. Hundreds of people were still out strolling the streets, taking full advantage of the warm evening. Paris is just like that.
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  • Dag 54

    Eights Weeks Without a Selfie

    13. oktober 2017, Frankrig ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Eight Weeks Without a Single Selfie - Oct 13th 2017

    On our final full day in Paris the sun broke through in full force to give the city a temporary return to summer. Gone were the winter hats, scarfs and coats that had been everywhere for the past couple of weeks and back out came the short skirts and sun hats. It was a perfect way to end our stay in this amazing place.

    Maggie and I took the opportunity to continue our recreation of the walk of Adele and Simon. We had begun this the previous day but exhaustion had overcome us before the task was complete.

    We set off to resume our walk at the famous Notre Dame Cathedral, however we did make one important detour on the way there. The Musee Nationale Du Moyen Age (Museum of the Middle Ages) is situated on the Rue D'Ecoles (Street of Schools), just a block away from our hotel. We had walked past it many time over the past couple of days and thought that it deserved a proper visit.

    We decided to pay the 9 Euro entry fee (no seniors concession here) and see what was inside. We certainly were not disappointed. The collection included an amazing array of artefacts and art works from the 6th to the 16th centuries. The building itself was worth the visit. It certainly was a fascinating insight into the creativity and skills of the people who lived in that period.

    Our walk then continued past Notre Dame and along the I'sle De La Cite to the Louvre. Although tourists had been conspicuously absent from most of Paris at this time of the year, we discovered just where most of them seemed to have congregated. I had forgotten what a thousand simultaneous selfies actually sounded like, but this is exactly what was happening. Wherever we looked there were people posing in front of every possible vantage point. Stand on one leg, look to one side, hold the selfie stick high, smile, click. It made me nauseous.
    I still cannot understand the selfie mentality at all. It always strikes me as a type of "technological tagging". It is obviously not sufficient to just visit some place, but you must prove you have been there by standing right in front of it, taking a selfie and then immediately share it to something like facebook or twitter. Surely if you know you have been there, why do you feel a need to prove it to the rest of the world ? I just do not get it. I am proud to say that we have now been travelling for 8 weeks and still have not taken a single selfie. Not one. Nor do I ever intend to. My own memories are what are most important to me.

    By the middle of the afternoon, the sun was actually quite hot and we took refuge by the fountain in The Tuileries. The council provides hundreds of free green chairs to relax on and we were glad to take two of these and spend some time dozing in the dappled sunshine.
    We are now back at the hotel, our bags are packed and we are almost ready to bid a final au revoir to France. But we will definitely be back in 2019.
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  • Dag 55

    An Indian Summer in Paris

    14. oktober 2017, Frankrig ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    An Indian Summer in Paris - Oct 13th
    It might have been the evening of Friday 13th, but the only unlucky thing I could think of was the fact that we would soon be leaving this city that we both love so much. On the other hand, after 8 weeks of travelling, we were really starting to look forward to being back in our own home again. Living out of a suitcase does wear a little thin after a while.

    For our final couple of days in Paris the weather had made a dramatic turn for the better. The cloudy skies and drizzle had been replaced with unbroken blue from horizon to horizon and the temperatures had risen to a rather balmy mid 20s. Although the autumn trees were now well into their annual change of colour and dropping of leaves, in every respect it felt like summer had returned in all its glory.

    After doing our final packing (ie cramming everything in and hoping that the blessed zipper would close) we looked out the window and decided that it was just too nice an evening to spend inside. Although we had declared that we could not walk another step, Paris just begs to be experienced, especially on a balmy Friday night.

    We began our final walk with a coffee and muffin and then wandered down the Boulevard St Michel to the Seine. We had fantastic memories of the Isle St Louis from Maggie's extended stay there in an apartment in 2013. Everywhere there were crowds of locals. Many were enjoying a drink in one of the hundreds of roadside cafes, lovers were walking hand in hand along the riverbank, many others seemed quite content to just sit and watch what everyone else was doing.

    After walking past the floodlit Notre Dame Cathedral we crossed the small pedestrian bridge to the Isle St Louis. We made our way back to the apartment on the Rue Bude where Maggie had spent her first time in Europe. At that moment neither of us wanted to think about leaving and the long flights that awaited us the following morning.

    The brightly lit river boats were busy carrying their crowds of tourists up and down the river and in the distance we could hear the faint sound of guitar music playing. When we walked closer we found that it was a young Australian busker who was entrancing the crowds with his unusual and highly talented playing techniques.

    We stopped to listen for a while and noticed a rather eccentric guy on the most amazing bicycle I had ever seen. It was covered all over in a collection of coloured lights, statues, flowers and ....fountains. Yes, I am not kidding, the bike had multiple water fountains fitted front and rear, each one illuminated by LED lights. The owner of the illuminated bike was almost as interesting as his bike. With long tangled hair, a scraggy beard and what looked like a Mongolian coat, he fitted into the Parisian crowds perfectly.

    When the Australian had finished the next song I dropped a few coins into his guitar case and whispered "Go Aussies". "Thanks Brother", he replied and we walked on our way feeling absolutely elated. It was a magic finish to an amazing trip.
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