Our Epic Adventure....or bust!

August 2023 - March 2024
Here we go! After 6 years of painstaking rehabbing, planning, testing and re-doing, we are FINALLY doing it; Taking a trip down the Intercoastal Water Way (ICW) to the Bahamas in What Could Go Wrong. Seriously, what could? Read more
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  • Day 29

    Manteo to Alligator River

    September 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
  • Day 31

    Alligator River to Belhaven, NC

    September 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    It has been a few days since I journaled. Part bad cell service, part we stayed in Manteo for just a few days and then barely stopped in Alligator River and hi-tailed it to Belhaven. We are running from the storm system and think we have managed to tuck in safe and sound for a few days.

    Manteo and the Outerbanks ended up being such a great spot. We have very fond memories of the Outerbanks from a family trip not that long ago and this trip reminded us why we like it so much. We even rented a car for the day and drove Hatteras Island to Ocracoke. What a journey! But at one point we were able to let the dogs run the beach and that moment was worth every minute in the car that we sat waiting for the hour ferry. Duke and Cookie were living their best life running the beaches of the Outerbanks and it was ADORABLE.

    As I already mentioned, we truly loved Manteo. Take that love and flip exactly around and you will get how we felt about Alligator River. Despite it's very cool name, the stop was a bit of a hell hole. A hot gas station on the side of a busy highway with little cell service and not much to wander around through. Although we did find a little turtle along our walk!

    So first thing in the morning (7am) we decided to outrun the rising wind and make our way to Belhaven. Imagine the small town Kevin Bacon moves to in Foot Loose and you can imagine Belhaven, NC. And we are here for several days due to oncoming rain and wind. Dave parked us at a free dock, so we have no facilities at all to speak of, but we are a good walk to town and groceries, so we are all set.

    What Could Go Right? The solar has been running perfectly! Dave has the oil fixed 95%.....I think that means he has to fix it more, but I count it as a win. We are about to test the most recent leak fixes....I'll let you know. The dogs are healthy and doing well. Both Dave and I are healthy and doing well. Our water maker is making wonderful water that doesn't stink at all. Yippeeee! We have more food than we can go through if we get stuck on the boat for even longer than the day and half that is projected. We are overall in very good shape.

    What Could Go Wrong? We couldn't find a great holding along our route to Beaufort, NC (where we intend to be for my big 50), so we are hoping for the best here in Belhaven. We have a little too much exposure, but with this free dock, Dave was able to extra tie us and I am not worried about us coming lose and flying away, so there is that! We just maybe will shake and roll a little, but hopefully all will be well!
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  • Day 33

    Tropical Storm Ophelia

    September 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Well, it was bound to happen some time, wasn't it? We are traveling during hurricane season after all. We finally got hit by high winds and rain and it was as horrible as I imagined it would be and ended better than I thought it would. First, let me say that dogs and people are all safe and sound. Dave may have injured his knee and tweaked his back a little, but otherwise everyone is safe.

    When we pulled into Belhaven, our wind predictors (we use Windy and Predictwind and Weather.com) all indicated we would be facing North winds and at their fastest 20 to 25 mph. We felt confident that facing the boat into the wind on a dock (to make Jessica happy we weren't depending on just our anchor) we would be good. Then the predictions changed to a South South East wind at 5am on Saturday. No problem! We will just turn the boat first thing and face into the wind.

    So we relaxed into a full day of rain on Friday, cleaning and watching TV and staying dry. We went to bed Friday night still reading the prediction, but Dave noticed that one of the predictors called for East Wind. The other two still said South / South East. Not much for us to do, but still turn the boat and ride it out. At about 2am, Dave got up and turned the boat. It was a very pleasant evening. The rain had stopped and it was very quiet. Jessica slept well.

    At about 6am on Sunday we both woke up to the wind. We knew it was coming but somehow it seemed stronger than we imagined. We do have some experience with 20 to 25 mph winds, but this seemed stronger. What's more, is the wind was almost exclusively Easterly pushing our boat into the dock. Dave spent time securing lines and re-positioning bumpers and beginning to get a little nervous. Now the weather predictors were calling for a 3 foot swell in tide and 30 to 35 mph winds. By about 830am our boat was knocking very hard against the dock and riding almost over the top. We had no choice, we had to untie and move the boat or it would for sure crash onto the dock.

    Unsecuring the lines and pushing off the dock was one of the scariest things we have ever done. The wind pushed us one way and we tried valiantly to use the engines to push us the other way. We did end up taking a couple of chunks out of the boat but honestly it was impressive that Dave was able to get us free of that dock. Then came phase 2. We had to anchor in 35mph winds and swells that sprayed all the way over the top of our boat.

    We made our first attempt at anchoring not too far off the dock but far enough. Jessica took control of the boat while Dave went out to throw the anchor. If you have ever been walking in very strong wind, thrown your hands out and tried to lean into it, you can imagine what it felt like to maneuver 11 tons of boat direct into the wind so that Dave could throw out an anchor from the very front of the boat completely unprotected by any barrier.

    The first anchor didn't take. Now we have to retrieve the anchor and try again. Even though it didn't take, it doesn't mean it isn't sitting in the mud and requires boat maneuvering to retrieve it. So once again, waves and wind thrashing us about, Dave out on the very front of the bow, Jessica at the controls, we risked life and limb to retrieve and re-set. Never, in all my life, have I shook so hard and been so centered on getting a job done.

    The second anchor took, thank God! We just sat stunned with the engines going for at least a 1/2 hour staring and praying that the anchor really had stuck. It had. Finally, we were able to convince our brains and bodies to believe we were as safe as we could be, while the wind and waves continued to knock us about like we were a toy boat floating down a rocky river. We moved downstairs, turned off the engines and sat and waited the many hours for the wind to stop. It finally calmed down around 5pm.

    The dogs made it through like little champions. Shaking champions but champions nonetheless. When we decided to move off the dock we strapped their life vests on them and locked them downstairs. Dave said in one of his passes he saw them huddled together under the couch in their little life vests. Because it had rained the entire day the day before and because of the morning trauma, the poor little things had not had a potty break and were scared. I am not sure which caused them to shake more, but I will tell you when Dave braved the still rolling waves and wind around 4pm to get them to shore, they came back much much happier and no longer shaking.

    So, it was quite a day. I know I have been more scared than that before, when Katrin was hit by the car, but I would put it up there with things I would never like to repeat. Here is the thing though, we can't guarantee we won't get stuck in that wind again. The only way to guarantee that is to not be doing this and we are not there yet. We can plan not to be on a dock again. Perhaps we can even plan not to be on the boat when it is windy like that again. I am not sure. I do know neither of us loved the experience, don't like the things that have to be fixed as a result of this experience, etc. And yet, we both loved the sunset and the sunrise that followed the storm.
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  • Day 35

    Belhaven, Oriental, Beaufort, Wrightsvil

    September 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Oh boy has it been an action packed week or more! We are currently in Wrightsville Beach, NC just outside of Wilmington. We are going to be here a little while. :) Good thing it is a very cute beach city with PLENTY going on and Wilmington not that far away.

    Where to start....I am writing and picturing all of this so I can have it when we are done. I just turned 50 (thanks to everyone that wished me Happy Birthday) and I just don't trust my memory so much. The pictures are funny for me, because they may seem inconsequential but they trigger a memory of a location or an event. Find Penguins limits me to 10 pictures per post, so these I had to chose VERY carefully. I want to remember so much about the last week or so.

    We traveled pretty fast from Belhaven to Beaufort because of the damage done to the boat during the storm and we wanted to be planted to do the repairs. We "skipped" our planned overnight in Oriental, only stopping for gas, a walk and lunch. It was a cute little town with another marina / motel Dave and I should consider for retirement (only kidding). But other than that, it did not have much to recommend it other than a lot of flies and tightly packed in boats. The best word to describe it was - Mayberryish.

    From Oriental we stayed on the ICW and made our way into Beaufort. Beaufort docks were very expensive, but we found a dock that was owned by a local Friends of the Museum group. It was cheap. It boasted a porta potty (1) and the Junior Sailing club. It was a mile from town and had a great field for the dogs to run in. Dave already mentioned the pirate rally that was going on when we arrived!

    In Beaufort we rented a car since we knew we were going to be driving around for repairs and we got off the boat for a few nights to celebrate my 50th Birthday. Dave showered me with gifts, flowers, treats and catered to my desire to recover from our Ophelia trauma with relaxing by the pool. My friend Aimee, who is doing so much for us, did one more thing and surprised me by showing up to celebrate with us. For some reason I am very bummed about turning 50 and all of this really helped me jump over the milestone. It was perfect.

    After Dave "mostly" finished the needed repairs, we decided that 6 days in one city was a little too long and it was time to move on. Our very poorly researched plan was to hit Swansboro, just about 2 hours away. The thing was, the days had been very grey leading up to our departure, we had no water and no pump out on our inexpensive no frills dock and our solar was down to it's last watt. Without a whole lot of planning, we decided that the best thing to do was to use the boat engines to charge our batteries, make a 2 hour journey into 3 or 4 and go far out into the Atlantic to make water and dump our black water (the rule is 3 miles out). Things started out fine and ended with us traveling almost 70 miles and 6 hours straight to Wrightsville Beach, past Swansboro and Past Surf City, our other planned stops.

    I'd have to let Dave tell the story to fully encapsulate what happened but I can tell you what I know. The solar not charging was too much drain on the batteries and whatever Dave tried to do to circumvent that drained the boat batteries instead of the other way around and that made the boat stop running altogether, let alone make water or dump black water. We floated a bit and then began calling the very very few marinas we saw along our route. We found one we thought would be fine in Swansboro, but we had to get there before 5pm. On our approach to the inlet, we noticed that waves were breaking in what was marked as the channel. Trusting our navigation charts, we attempted an approach anyway and hit 1 ft of depth. You guessed it! Another bent propeller! And a frustration at not being able to get into the channel to stop for the night. More frantic research ensued and the best we could come up with was to make it another 40 miles to Wrightsville Beach.

    As I mentioned when we hit Swansboro we were pushing 5pm. With another 40 miles to go that means at least 2 and half hours for us. And yes, that would mean attempting to enter another channel, but this time in the dark. All I can tell you is that I sighed. Dave researched and memorized the channel on his graphs and we thanked the gods when we saw lighted channel markers and many houses and a bridge lighting the waterway we needed to anchor in. And after 4 tries, anchor we did. That is where we are now. Anchored in the middle of Wrightsville Beach. Dave is so happy! It's FREE!

    What Could Go Right? I feel incredibly loved. Our dogs are so fun to watch frolic. It's like watching the world through little kids' eyes. Dave is very very handy and when the boat just turned off in the middle of the Atlantic, I DID immediately look up Boat Tow telephone numbers, but I believed him that he could fix it. The weather is BEAUTIFUL for the next at least 5 days. There is so much to do here and another car rental is right up the street for ease of getting around. We have had great access to groceries and laundry and we really lack for nothing. Even water. We have just had to buy it to drink. Dave has a plan today to get our boat pumped out and water filled for showers while he does the remaining fixes, so it should all be really comfortable.

    What Could Go Wrong? Well, I have outlined that, but for posterity's sake; In Wrightsville Beach Dave will be working on sanding and gel coating the boat, solar fix, finding a back up generator, replacing the propellers (good thing we have those extra's now), getting an air tank, getting gas, getting water, getting pumped out, re-anchoring and he STILL doesn't have great fixes for oil leak and water leaks.

    Boating is so much fun!
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  • Day 35

    Dolphins!

    September 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    In Adams creek! We had like 15 feet of depth!

  • Day 36

    Beaufort NC

    September 25, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    "Holed" up in Beautiful Beaufort for a week or so to make repairs to the boat. Ophelia punched a couple holes in our hull, so we'll be repairing fiberglass and gel coat before moving on. Nothing serious, but they must be fixed before we hit the open water. I don't have pictures yet because we're at a hotel, sitting by the pool, celebrating Jessica's 50th birthday, so I'll share those later.

    There was a pirate festival happening at our marina when we arrived here, so we got to see live sword fights, listen to sea shantys, and respond "Aye" and "Arrrrr!" in normal conversation. It's a lot of rum, I mean fun! ;-)
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  • Day 42

    Bird talks to us in Moorehead City

    October 1, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We actually liked Moorehead City better than we liked Beaufort. We spent a lot more time there as it had more shops and more restaurants and more boardwalk. The emerald isle was quite beautiful.

  • Day 45

    Wrightsville, NC to Southport, NC

    October 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We LOVED LOVED LOVED Wrightsville Beach and Wilmington, NC. We anchored for 6 or 7 nights and rented a car to see all the areas that we missed on our misadventures. Swansboro was a little sleepy marina and Surf City and Topsail beach were a cute resort like area. Carolina beach was a bit run down, but a great beach was available for 4wheeling and running the dogs off leash lawfully.

    Every day we walked and explored somewhere new. We found a great farmer's market and picked up some fresh fish. We saw downtown Wilmington and the harbor there. We drooled over the many multimillion dollar homes and neighborhoods and we just generally fell in love with the location. Everyone says, "come back in July for a real taste of the area." Maybe we will!

    Dave got most things done that were on his list. We have seen nothing but beautiful weather, so it's hard to know if our water leak is being addressed. Dave got a small back up generator and battery chargers to make sure our power issues are addressed. The propellers got replaced and cleaned up. We didn't feel comfortable sanding in our anchorage, so the final touches on the hull holes have had to wait.

    What Could Go Right? More and more dolphins! One swam up to our boat our first night at anchorage. It was such an easy and pleasant week in this area. Really quite beautiful and serene.

    What Could Go Wrong? On this beautiful Saturday, as we sit and do laundry, waiting to explore picturesque Southport, having just completed a beautiful cruise. It's hard to think of anything going wrong. We have a few projects that seem very small. We have a packed couple of days in front of us, so I'm sure something will come up, but for today, nothing is going wrong.
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